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EP0276414B1 - Woven tape - Google Patents

Woven tape Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0276414B1
EP0276414B1 EP87117926A EP87117926A EP0276414B1 EP 0276414 B1 EP0276414 B1 EP 0276414B1 EP 87117926 A EP87117926 A EP 87117926A EP 87117926 A EP87117926 A EP 87117926A EP 0276414 B1 EP0276414 B1 EP 0276414B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
threads
ribbon
warp threads
weft
weft threads
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP87117926A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0276414A1 (en
Inventor
Elmar Mock
Clément Meyrat
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
ETA SA Manufacture Horlogere Suisse
Original Assignee
Eta SA Fabriques dEbauches
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Eta SA Fabriques dEbauches filed Critical Eta SA Fabriques dEbauches
Priority to AT87117926T priority Critical patent/ATE65807T1/en
Publication of EP0276414A1 publication Critical patent/EP0276414A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0276414B1 publication Critical patent/EP0276414B1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04DTRIMMINGS; RIBBONS, TAPES OR BANDS, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D04D9/00Ribbons, tapes, welts, bands, beadings, or other decorative or ornamental strips, not otherwise provided for
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41FGARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
    • A41F9/00Belts, girdles, or waistbands for trousers or skirts
    • A41F9/002Free belts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/0053Flexible straps
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45CPURSES; LUGGAGE; HAND CARRIED BAGS
    • A45C13/00Details; Accessories
    • A45C13/30Straps; Bands
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B66HOISTING; LIFTING; HAULING
    • B66CCRANES; LOAD-ENGAGING ELEMENTS OR DEVICES FOR CRANES, CAPSTANS, WINCHES, OR TACKLES
    • B66C1/00Load-engaging elements or devices attached to lifting or lowering gear of cranes or adapted for connection therewith for transmitting lifting forces to articles or groups of articles
    • B66C1/10Load-engaging elements or devices attached to lifting or lowering gear of cranes or adapted for connection therewith for transmitting lifting forces to articles or groups of articles by mechanical means
    • B66C1/12Slings comprising chains, wires, ropes, or bands; Nets
    • B66C1/18Band-type slings
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D03D1/08Ladder tapes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a new woven ribbon, in particular for a belt, a strap, a strap, a bag strap, a watch strap, at least one end of which is intended to be anchored at an adjustable distance to a pin buckle.
  • this fabric should consist of very stiff and very tight.
  • the first is to actually drill holes in the woven tape and surround them with eyelets.
  • the second is to fix at the end of the tape a strip made of a material more resistant than it, for example natural or synthetic leather, and to drill holes in it.
  • the first solution has another drawback. This is because by interrupting at their location the continuity of the warp and weft threads, the holes compromise the mechanical resistance of the tape.
  • this ribbon can have any texture, but it is clear that this is not true. If this were so, ribbons of this kind or articles made with them would certainly have been in the trade for a long time.
  • the present invention aims to provide a solution that allows moving from this idea found in French Patent No. 1,512,865 to a concrete realization.
  • the invention also aims to ensure that this solution makes it possible to obtain a ribbon which can be produced in very large numbers and at a very low cost price.
  • the ribbon according to the invention which also comprises weft threads and warp threads arranged respectively in the direction of its width and its length and which also has in a narrow part of its width an area intended to be anchored to the pin buckle in which the weaving is less tight than elsewhere, but without that the warp threads are necessarily absent from this area, the weft threads are threads that are made at least partially made of synthetic material and the fact that it is woven so that the weft threads are joined by pairs of threads contiguous with the warp threads.
  • weft threads give the ribbon the desired stiffness in width and the warp threads its flexibility in length.
  • weft yarns it is often preferable to use solid yarns, entirely made of synthetic material, but it is also possible in certain cases to use mixed yarns composed of a natural fiber core and a sheath made of synthetic material.
  • warp yarns are vast. They may for example be yarns made of very fine agglomerated and / or slightly twisted fibers, natural or artificial.
  • FIGS. 1 to 4 are plan views of part of the ribbon in these four embodiments.
  • the weft of the ribbon shown in Figure 1 consists of a single wire 1, continuous, thin, full and made of resistant synthetic material.
  • the wire 1 is folded back on itself, successively on each of the edges of the ribbon, as seen in particular in 2 and 3, on the edge of the bottom of the ribbon. It thus constitutes pairs of weft yarns 4, 5 contiguous, regularly spaced from one another, of which only all the two pairs are visible in the drawing, the intermediate pairs appearing on the reverse of the part of the ribbon shown in the drawing.
  • the chain of this ribbon is composed of two layers of son 6, 7, 8, 9 superimposed, each consisting of very fine agglomerated and / or slightly twisted fibers. Only those in the upper layer are visible in the drawing.
  • the warp thread 6 of the upper layer alternately passes over three consecutive pairs of contiguous weft threads, then under the next pair of weft threads. All the two warp threads of this upper layer pass over and under the same pairs of contiguous weft threads as the thread 6.
  • the warp thread 7 like all the other two warp threads of the upper layer, it passes alternately under the pair of contiguous weft threads, which is in the middle of those over which thread 6 passes, then on the next three consecutive pairs of contiguous weft threads.
  • each of them passes alternately over the pair of contiguous weft threads, which is in the middle of those over which a warp thread of the upper layer passes, then under the the next three pairs of contiguous weft threads.
  • the parts of the warp threads of the lower layer, which pass over a pair of contiguous weft threads, are covered by the warp threads of the upper layer, which pass over this same pair of weft threads as well as over the two pairs neighbors.
  • the warp threads of the lower layer which pass under three successive pairs of contiguous weft threads, hide the parts of the warp threads of the upper layer which pass under a single pair of contiguous weft threads.
  • the warp threads are tight against each other, except the two threads 8 and 9, which are in the middle of the width of the ribbon and whose space they occupy is almost the same width as that occupied by three others contiguous warp threads.
  • the barb (not shown), to which one end of the ribbon described is intended to be anchored and which is in the middle of the width of the ribbon, can thus make its way between the two warp threads 8, 9 and between two consecutive pairs of contiguous weft threads, without damaging either of these threads. Since the pairs of consecutive weft threads are relatively close to each other, the ribbon described allows fine adjustment of its active length.
  • the ribbon of Figure 2 differs mainly from that of Figure 1 by the fact that it has, in the middle of its width, a narrow part 10, which is occupied only by weft son 11.
  • the barb to which one end of the ribbon is intended to be anchored, naturally engages in the free spaces between these wires 11.
  • these wires 11 are formed by segments, which are folded in a zigzag along the ribbon, of a single and same wire, identical to that of FIG. 1, they are grouped here in triplets 12 of consecutive pairs of contiguous wires. The pairs of a triplet 12 are closer to each other than the triplets are.
  • warp threads 13 are identical to those of FIG. 1. However, two means are provided to prevent the warp threads 13 from spreading in the part 10 of the ribbon and to give the weft threads of this part 10 a rigidity allowing them to properly resist the tensile forces exerted on them by the barb to which one end of the strip is intended to be anchored.
  • the first of these means consists of a pair of contiguous warp threads 14, solid, thin and stiff, made of synthetic material, which extends along each of the edges of the part 10.
  • Each of these pairs of threads 14 passes alternately from one to the other side of the consecutive pairs of contiguous weft threads.
  • the second means lies in the particular weaving of the two warp threads 15, 16 next to the threads 14, on each side of the part 10.
  • the thread 15 passes successively from one to the other side of the consecutive triplets 12 and the thread 16 passes successively from one to the other side of each consecutive pair of contiguous weft threads.
  • the wires 15, 16 are of the same nature as the wires 13.
  • the embodiment shown in Figure 3 differs mainly from that of Figure 2 by the fact that two layers of warp threads, of different colors, pass simultaneously and from place to place from one side to the other of the frame.
  • the ribbon therefore has segments 17, 18 of alternating colors.
  • the weaving is identical to that of Figure 2.
  • On either side of the narrow central portion 23 of the ribbon there is, however, only one warp thread 24, solid, thin and stiff, which passes successively from one to the other side of the consecutive pairs of contiguous weft threads.
  • some warp threads in a central zone 25 of the ribbon have substantially the same color as the weft threads, so as to camouflage the latter, which occupy the narrow part 23; while the outer warp threads, zones 26 and 27, have another color.
  • the ribbon of this last embodiment illustrates another very simple way of diversifying its appearance.
  • the central part of the ribbon where the weaving is less tight extends, of course, over the entire length of the ribbon. It is, however, possible to limit this particular weaving to the zone of the ribbon, which is actually intended to be anchored to the barb in question. For this purpose, it suffices to pass the weft threads of this zone on the same side of two, three or four warp threads lying in the middle of the width of the ribbon or between the same warp threads of two superimposed layers. The barb will then be able to pass through this zone of the ribbon, engaging between the weft threads and the warp threads released from the weft, without risking damaging either of these threads.
  • the invention is obviously not limited to the described nature of the wires making up the ribbon. Instead of being made of synthetic material, part or all of these threads can consist of natural fibers, bare or coated with synthetic material.
  • Attaching a pin buckle to one end of the ribbon according to the invention presents no difficulty. It suffices to engage this end of the ribbon in the loop or a part of it, to fold it over the rest of the ribbon and to fix it to the latter, for example by means of one or more rivets. It can also be fixed to it by welding, sewing or gluing. If the ribbon wires and the loop are made of synthetic material, the end of the ribbon can even be soldered directly to the loop.
  • the cutting to the width of the strands of bracelets can advantageously be carried out hot, for example by ultrasound. This procedure will at the same time ensure the welding together of the ends of the weft threads along the edges of the bracelet.
  • the weft thread is of natural origin, the cutting in question must be carried out mechanically. Then, it will be necessary to border the bracelet strands by sewing to avoid fraying. This naturally also applies to the ends of these strands.
  • the threads making up the ribbon are mixed, that is to say if they are composed of a core of natural fiber, for example cotton, sheathed with synthetic material, for example PVC, cutting can be performed by high frequency, which will ensure at the same time the welding between them of the ends of these wires.
  • Attaching the strands of the bracelet to the handles of the watch case can be carried out in a similar manner to those described above with a loop.
  • the bracelet strand extending from the watch case to the pin buckle naturally does not need to have a narrow central part woven less loosely, except to save the continuity of the appearance of the bracelet .

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Decoration Of Textiles (AREA)
  • Purses, Travelling Bags, Baskets, Or Suitcases (AREA)

Description

La présente invention a pour objet un nouveau ruban tissé, notamment pour ceinture, lanière, sangle, anse de sac à porter, bracelet de montre, dont une extrémité au moins est destinée à être ancrée à distance réglable à une boucle avec ardillon.The present invention relates to a new woven ribbon, in particular for a belt, a strap, a strap, a bag strap, a watch strap, at least one end of which is intended to be anchored at an adjustable distance to a pin buckle.

Actuellement, lorsque l'on réalise un objet ou un article comme ceux que l'on vient de citer en utilisant un ruban tissé on ne se contente pas de faire des trous dans ce ruban pour permettre à l'ardillon de passer.Currently, when you make an object or an article like the ones we just mentioned using a woven ribbon, you don't just make holes in this ribbon to allow the barb to pass.

En effet, pour que l'ardillon puisse toujours être facilement introduit dans les trous, sans risquer de passer à côté, et pour que le tissu résiste bien aux tractions de l'ardillon il faudrait que ce tissu soit constitué de fils très raides et très serrés.Indeed, so that the barb can always be easily introduced into the holes, without risking passing by, and for the fabric to resist well to the pulls of the barb, this fabric should consist of very stiff and very tight.

Or, il est vrai qu'il est toujours souhaitable ou nécessaire que l'objet ou l'article en question présente une bonne raideur en largeur mais pas en longueur.Now, it is true that it is always desirable or necessary for the object or article in question to have good stiffness in width but not in length.

Par conséquent, ce que l'on fait, c'est que l'on choisit un tissu qui permet de répondre à cette double exigence de rigidité en largeur et de souplesse en longueur et que l'on opte ensuite pour l'une des deux possibilités suivantes :Consequently, what we do is that we choose a fabric that meets this double requirement of rigidity in width and flexibility in length and that we then opt for one of the two following possibilities:

La première c'est de percer effectivement des trous dans le ruban tissé et de les entourer par des oeillets.The first is to actually drill holes in the woven tape and surround them with eyelets.

La deuxième c'est de fixer au bout du ruban une bande en un matériau plus résistant que lui, par exemple en cuir naturel ou synthétique, et de percer des trous dans celle-ci.The second is to fix at the end of the tape a strip made of a material more resistant than it, for example natural or synthetic leather, and to drill holes in it.

Ces deux solutions ont deux inconvénients en commun : elles augmentent nettement le prix de revient de l'objet ou de l'article et elles ne permettent pas un réglage fin de la longueur de celui-ci, à cause des espaces relativement grands qu'il faut quand même prévoir entre les trous.These two solutions have two disadvantages in common: they significantly increase the cost price of the object or article and they do not allow fine adjustment of the length thereof, because of the relatively large spaces that it you still have to plan between the holes.

De plus, la première solution a un autre inconvénient. C'est qu'en interrompant à leur emplacement la continuité des fils de chaîne et de trame les trous compromettent la résistance mécanique du ruban.In addition, the first solution has another drawback. This is because by interrupting at their location the continuity of the warp and weft threads, the holes compromise the mechanical resistance of the tape.

Cela dit, si on lit le brevet français No 1 512 865 qui a été demandé le 28 février 1967 on s'aperçoit qu'il y a longtemps que l'on a pensé à réaliser un ruban avec des fils de trame sensiblement équidistants disposés dans le sens de sa largeur et des fils de chaîne dans le sens de sa longueur et de prévoir une zone longitudinale étroite totalement dépourvue de fils de chaîne pour le passage d'un ardillon, et ceci précisément pour supprimer les inconvénients de la première solution dont on vient de parler.That said, if we read the French patent No 1,512,865 which was applied for on February 28, 1967, we realize that it has been a long time since we thought of making a ribbon with substantially equidistant weft threads arranged in the direction of its width and the warp threads in the direction of its length and to provide a narrow longitudinal zone completely devoid of warp threads for the passage of a barb, and this precisely to eliminate the drawbacks of the first solution which just spoke.

Le problème, c'est que l'on ne trouve dans ce document aucun détail en ce qui concerne la nature des fils et le ou les modes de tissage particuliers qu'il faudrait employer pour que le ruban en question réponde à toutes les exigences que l'on a indiquées.The problem is that we do not find in this document any details regarding the nature of the threads and the particular weaving mode (s) that should be used so that the ribbon in question meets all the requirements that we have indicated.

D'après le titulaire ce ruban peut avoir n'importe quelle contexture mais il est bien clair que cela n'est pas vrai. Si il en était ainsi des rubans de ce genre ou des articles faits avec eux se trouveraient certainement dans le commerce depuis longtemps.According to the holder, this ribbon can have any texture, but it is clear that this is not true. If this were so, ribbons of this kind or articles made with them would certainly have been in the trade for a long time.

La présente invention a pour but d'apporter une solution qui permette de passer de cette idée que l'on trouve dans le brevet français No 1 512 865 à une réalisation concrète.The present invention aims to provide a solution that allows moving from this idea found in French Patent No. 1,512,865 to a concrete realization.

L'invention vise également à ce que cette solution permette d'aboutir à un ruban qui puisse être fabriqué en très grand nombre et à un prix de revient très bas.The invention also aims to ensure that this solution makes it possible to obtain a ribbon which can be produced in very large numbers and at a very low cost price.

Ces buts sont atteints grâce au fait que dans le ruban selon l'invention qui comprend lui aussi des fils de trame et des fils de chaîne disposés respectivement dans le sens de sa largeur et de sa longueur et qui présente lui aussi dans une partie étroite de sa largeur une zone destinée à être ancrée à la boucle avec ardillon dans laquelle le tissage est moins serré qu'ailleurs, mais sans pour cela que les fils de chaîne soient forcément absents de cette zone, les fils en trame sont des fils qui sont réalisés au moins partiellement en matière synthétique et au fait qu'il est tissé de façon que les fils de trame soient réunis par paires de fils contigus par les fils de chaîne.These objects are achieved thanks to the fact that in the ribbon according to the invention which also comprises weft threads and warp threads arranged respectively in the direction of its width and its length and which also has in a narrow part of its width an area intended to be anchored to the pin buckle in which the weaving is less tight than elsewhere, but without that the warp threads are necessarily absent from this area, the weft threads are threads that are made at least partially made of synthetic material and the fact that it is woven so that the weft threads are joined by pairs of threads contiguous with the warp threads.

Ainsi les fils de trame confèrent au ruban la raideur voulue en largeur et les fils de chaine sa souplesse en longueur.Thus the weft threads give the ribbon the desired stiffness in width and the warp threads its flexibility in length.

De plus, le fait de réunir les fils de trame par paires présente deux avantages :In addition, joining the weft threads in pairs has two advantages:

Premièrement, ces fils résistant mieux aux tractions de l'ardillon que si ils étaient régulièrement répartis dans le sens de la longueur du ruban, comme c'est le cas dans le brevet français précité.Firstly, these threads resist better the pulls of the barb than if they were regularly distributed along the length of the ribbon, as is the case in the aforementioned French patent.

Deuxièmement, on créé de cette façon de petits espaces entre les paires dans lesquels l'ardillon peut facilement pénétrer tout en continuant à offrir la possibilité d'un réglage pratiquement continu de la longueur du ruban.Secondly, small spaces are created in this way between the pairs into which the barb can easily penetrate while continuing to offer the possibility of practically continuous adjustment of the length of the ribbon.

En ce qui concerne les fils de trame il est souvent préfèrable d'utiliser des fils pleins, entièrement en matière synthétique mais on peut aussi faire appel dans certains cas à des fils mixtes composés d'une âme en fibre naturelle et d'une gaine en matière synthétique.With regard to weft yarns, it is often preferable to use solid yarns, entirely made of synthetic material, but it is also possible in certain cases to use mixed yarns composed of a natural fiber core and a sheath made of synthetic material.

Pour ce qui est des fils de chaîne le choix est très vaste. Il peut s'agir par exemple de fils constitués de très fines fibres agglomérées et / ou légèrement torsadées, naturelles ou artificielles.The choice of warp yarns is vast. They may for example be yarns made of very fine agglomerated and / or slightly twisted fibers, natural or artificial.

D'autre part, pour obtenir un tissage moins serré dans la partie étroite on peut par exemple s'arranger pour que les fils de chaîne y soient moins rapprochés les uns des autres que dans les autres parties ou pour que les fils de trame passent à cet endroit d'un même côté des fils de chaîne.On the other hand, to obtain a less tight weaving in the narrow part we can for example arrange so that the warp threads are there less close to each other than in the other parts or so that the weft threads pass there on the same side of the warp threads.

Si l'on opte pour la solution qui consiste à ne pas prévoir de fils de chaîne dans la partie étroite on peut tisser de chaque côté de celle-ci un fil de chaîne plein, mince et raide ou une paire de fils contigus de ce genre qui passe alternativement de l'un à l'autre côté des paires consécutives de fils de trame. De cette façon on accentue le raidissement des fils de trame dans la région centrale du ruban et on empêche les autres fils de chaîne, qui sont beaucoup plus souples, de s'étaler dans la partie étroite.If we opt for the solution which consists in not providing warp threads in the narrow part, we can weave on each side of this one a full, thin and stiff warp thread or a pair of contiguous threads of this kind. which passes alternately from one to the other side of the consecutive pairs of weft threads. In this way, the stiffening of the weft threads in the central region of the ribbon is accentuated and the other warp threads, which are much more flexible, are prevented from spreading in the narrow part.

Enfin, il est bien clair que l'on peut très largement diversifier l'aspect du ruban en utilisant des fils de différentes couleurs et différents modes de tissage.Finally, it is clear that we can very widely diversify the appearance of the ribbon by using threads of different colors and different weaving methods.

D'autres caractéristiques et avantages du ruban selon l'invention apparaîtront à la lecture de la description qui suit de quatre formes possibles d'exécution choisies simplement à titre d'exemples et qui sont particulièrement bien adaptées pour la réalisation d'un bracelet de montre. Cette description se réfère au dessin annexé sur lequel les figures 1 à 4 sont des vues en plan d'une partie du ruban sous ces quatre formes d'exécution.Other characteristics and advantages of the ribbon according to the invention will appear on reading the following description of four possible embodiments chosen simply by way of examples and which are particularly well suited for the production of a watch strap . This description refers to the appended drawing in which FIGS. 1 to 4 are plan views of part of the ribbon in these four embodiments.

La trame du ruban représenté à la figure 1 est constituée par un fil unique 1, continu, mince, plein et en matière synthétique résistante. Le fil 1 est replié sur lui-même, successivement sur chacun des bords du ruban, comme on le voit en particulier en 2 et 3, sur le bord du bas du ruban. Il constitue ainsi des paires de fils de trame 4, 5 contigus, régulièrement espacées les unes des autres, dont seules toutes les deux paires sont visibles au dessin, les paires intermédiaires apparaissant au revers de la partie du ruban représentée au dessin.The weft of the ribbon shown in Figure 1 consists of a single wire 1, continuous, thin, full and made of resistant synthetic material. The wire 1 is folded back on itself, successively on each of the edges of the ribbon, as seen in particular in 2 and 3, on the edge of the bottom of the ribbon. It thus constitutes pairs of weft yarns 4, 5 contiguous, regularly spaced from one another, of which only all the two pairs are visible in the drawing, the intermediate pairs appearing on the reverse of the part of the ribbon shown in the drawing.

La chaîne de ce ruban est composée de deux couches de fils 6, 7, 8, 9 superposés, constitués chacun de très fines fibres agglomérées et/ou légèrement torsadées. Seuls ceux de la couche supérieure sont visibles au dessin. Ainsi, le fil de chaîne 6 de la couche supérieure passe alternativement par-dessus trois paires consécutives de fils de trame contigus, puis sous la paire de fils de trame suivante. Tout les deux fils de chaîne de cette couche supérieure passent sur et sous les mêmes paires de fils de trame contigus que le fil 6. Quant au fil de chaîne 7, comme tout les deux autres fils de chaîne de la couche supérieure, il passe alternativement sous la paire de fils de trame contigus, qui se trouve au milieu de celles sur lesquelles passe le fil 6, puis sur les trois paires consécutives suivantes de fils de trame contigus.The chain of this ribbon is composed of two layers of son 6, 7, 8, 9 superimposed, each consisting of very fine agglomerated and / or slightly twisted fibers. Only those in the upper layer are visible in the drawing. Thus, the warp thread 6 of the upper layer alternately passes over three consecutive pairs of contiguous weft threads, then under the next pair of weft threads. All the two warp threads of this upper layer pass over and under the same pairs of contiguous weft threads as the thread 6. As for the warp thread 7, like all the other two warp threads of the upper layer, it passes alternately under the pair of contiguous weft threads, which is in the middle of those over which thread 6 passes, then on the next three consecutive pairs of contiguous weft threads.

En ce qui concerne les fils de chaîne de la couche inférieure, chacun d'eux passe alternativement sur la paire de fils de trame contigus, qui se trouve au milieu de celles sur lesquelles passe un fil de chaîne de la couche supérieure, puis sous les trois paires suivantes de fils de trame contigus. Les parties des fils de chaîne de la couche inférieure, qui passent sur une paire de fils de trame contigus, sont recouvertes par les fils de chaîne de la couche supérieure, qui passent sur cette même paire de fils de trame ainsi que sur les deux paires voisines. De même, les fils de chaîne de la couche inférieure, qui passent sous trois paires successives de fils de trame contigus, cachent les parties des fils de chaîne de la couche supérieure qui passent sous une seule paire de fils de trame contigus.As regards the warp threads in the lower layer, each of them passes alternately over the pair of contiguous weft threads, which is in the middle of those over which a warp thread of the upper layer passes, then under the the next three pairs of contiguous weft threads. The parts of the warp threads of the lower layer, which pass over a pair of contiguous weft threads, are covered by the warp threads of the upper layer, which pass over this same pair of weft threads as well as over the two pairs neighbors. Likewise, the warp threads of the lower layer, which pass under three successive pairs of contiguous weft threads, hide the parts of the warp threads of the upper layer which pass under a single pair of contiguous weft threads.

Les fils de chaîne sont serrés les uns contre les autres, sauf les deux fils 8 et 9, qui se trouvent au milieu de la largeur du ruban et dont l'espace qu'ils occupent a presque la même largeur que celui occupé par trois autres fils de chaîne contigus.The warp threads are tight against each other, except the two threads 8 and 9, which are in the middle of the width of the ribbon and whose space they occupy is almost the same width as that occupied by three others contiguous warp threads.

L'ardillon (non représenté), auquel l'une des extrémités du ruban décrit est destinée à être ancrée et qui se trouve au milieu de la largeur du ruban, peut ainsi se frayer un passage entre les deux fils de chaîne 8, 9 et entre deux paires consécutives de fils de trame contigus, sans endommager ni les uns ni les autres de ces fils. Vu que les paires de fils de trame consécutives sont relativement rapprochées les unes des autres, le ruban décrit permet un réglage fin de sa longueur active.The barb (not shown), to which one end of the ribbon described is intended to be anchored and which is in the middle of the width of the ribbon, can thus make its way between the two warp threads 8, 9 and between two consecutive pairs of contiguous weft threads, without damaging either of these threads. Since the pairs of consecutive weft threads are relatively close to each other, the ribbon described allows fine adjustment of its active length.

Le ruban de la figure 2 se distingue principalement de celui de la figure 1 par le fait qu'il présente, au milieu de sa largeur, une étroite partie 10, qui est occupée uniquement par des fils de trame 11. L'ardillon, auquel une extrémité du ruban est destinée à être ancrée, s'engage naturellement dans les espaces libres entre ces fils 11. Bien que ces fils 11 soient constitués par des segments, qui sont repliés en zigzag tout le long du ruban, d'un seul et même fil, identique à celui de la figure 1, ils sont groupés ici en triplets 12 de paires consécutives de fils contigus. Les paires d'un triplet 12 sont plus près les unes des autres que ne le sont les triplets entre eux.The ribbon of Figure 2 differs mainly from that of Figure 1 by the fact that it has, in the middle of its width, a narrow part 10, which is occupied only by weft son 11. The barb, to which one end of the ribbon is intended to be anchored, naturally engages in the free spaces between these wires 11. Although these wires 11 are formed by segments, which are folded in a zigzag along the ribbon, of a single and same wire, identical to that of FIG. 1, they are grouped here in triplets 12 of consecutive pairs of contiguous wires. The pairs of a triplet 12 are closer to each other than the triplets are.

La nature et le tissage des fils de chaîne 13 sont identiques à ceux de la figure 1. Toutefois, deux moyens sont prévus pour éviter que les fils de chaîne 13 ne s'étalent dans la partie 10 du ruban et pour conférer aux fils de trame de cette partie 10 une rigidité leur permettant de résister convenablement aux efforts de traction exercés sur eux par l'ardillon auquel une extrémité du ruban est destinée à être ancrée.The nature and the weaving of the warp threads 13 are identical to those of FIG. 1. However, two means are provided to prevent the warp threads 13 from spreading in the part 10 of the ribbon and to give the weft threads of this part 10 a rigidity allowing them to properly resist the tensile forces exerted on them by the barb to which one end of the strip is intended to be anchored.

Le premier de ces moyens consiste en une paire de fils de chaîne 14 contigus, pleins, minces et raides, en matière synthétique, qui s'étend le long de chacun des bords de la partie 10. Chacune de ces paires de fils 14 passe alternativement de l'un à l'autre côté des paires consécutives de fils de trame contigus.The first of these means consists of a pair of contiguous warp threads 14, solid, thin and stiff, made of synthetic material, which extends along each of the edges of the part 10. Each of these pairs of threads 14 passes alternately from one to the other side of the consecutive pairs of contiguous weft threads.

Le second moyen réside dans le tissage particulier des deux fils de chaîne 15, 16 voisins des fils 14, de chaque côté de la partie 10. Le fil 15 passe successivement de l'un à l'autre côté des triplets 12 consécutifs et le fil 16 passe successivement de l'un à l'autre côté de chaque paire consécutive de fils de trame contigus. Les fils 15, 16 sont de même nature que les fils 13.The second means lies in the particular weaving of the two warp threads 15, 16 next to the threads 14, on each side of the part 10. The thread 15 passes successively from one to the other side of the consecutive triplets 12 and the thread 16 passes successively from one to the other side of each consecutive pair of contiguous weft threads. The wires 15, 16 are of the same nature as the wires 13.

La forme d'exécution représentée à la figure 3 se distingue principalement de celle de la figure 2 par le fait que deux couches de fils de chaîne, de couleurs différentes, passent simultanément et de place en place d'un côté à l'autre de la trame. Le ruban présente de ce fait des segments 17, 18 de couleurs alternées.The embodiment shown in Figure 3 differs mainly from that of Figure 2 by the fact that two layers of warp threads, of different colors, pass simultaneously and from place to place from one side to the other of the frame. The ribbon therefore has segments 17, 18 of alternating colors.

Dans ce cas, les deux fils de chaîne 14 contigus, pleins, minces et raides, qui s'étendent le long de l'un et l'autre bord de l'étroite partie médiane 19 du ruban, passent, l'un, d'un côté, et l'autre de l'autre côté des paires successives 20 de fils de trame contigus 21, 22, qui, dans cette forme d'exécution, sont régulièrement espacées les unes des autres.In this case, the two contiguous warp threads 14, full, thin and stiff, which extend along one and the other edge of the narrow median part 19 of the ribbon, pass, one, d 'one side, and the other on the other side of successive pairs 20 of contiguous weft threads 21, 22, which, in this embodiment, are regularly spaced from each other.

Dans la forme d'exécution représentée à la figure 4, le tissage est identique à celui de la figure 2. De part et d'autre de la partie centrale étroite 23 du ruban, il n'y a, toutefois, qu'un seul fil de chaîne 24, plein, mince et raide, qui passe successivement de l'un à l'autre côté des paires consécutives de fils de trame contigus. En outre, quelques fils de chaîne d'une zone centrale 25 du ruban ont sensiblement la même couleur que les fils de trame, de façon à camoufler ces derniers, qui occupent l'étroite partie 23; tandis que les fils de chaîne extérieurs, des zones 26 et 27, ont une autre couleur.In the embodiment shown in Figure 4, the weaving is identical to that of Figure 2. On either side of the narrow central portion 23 of the ribbon, there is, however, only one warp thread 24, solid, thin and stiff, which passes successively from one to the other side of the consecutive pairs of contiguous weft threads. In addition, some warp threads in a central zone 25 of the ribbon have substantially the same color as the weft threads, so as to camouflage the latter, which occupy the narrow part 23; while the outer warp threads, zones 26 and 27, have another color.

Le ruban de cette dernière forme d'exécution illustre une autre façon très simple d'en diversifier l'aspect.The ribbon of this last embodiment illustrates another very simple way of diversifying its appearance.

Dans les quatre formes d'exécution représentées au dessin, la partie centrale du ruban où le tissage est moins serré s'étend, bien entendu, sur toute la longueur du ruban. Il est, toutefois, possible de limiter ce tissage particulier à la zone du ruban, qui est effectivement destinée à être ancrée à l'ardillon en question. A cet effet, il suffit de faire passer les fils de trame de cette zone du même côté de deux, trois ou quatre fils de chaîne se trouvant au milieu de la largeur du ruban ou entre les mêmes fils de chaîne de deux couches superposées. L'ardillon pourra alors passer à travers cette zone du ruban, en s'engageant entre les fils de trame et les fils de chaîne libérés de la trame, sans risquer d'endommager ni les uns ni les autres de ces fils.In the four embodiments shown in the drawing, the central part of the ribbon where the weaving is less tight extends, of course, over the entire length of the ribbon. It is, however, possible to limit this particular weaving to the zone of the ribbon, which is actually intended to be anchored to the barb in question. For this purpose, it suffices to pass the weft threads of this zone on the same side of two, three or four warp threads lying in the middle of the width of the ribbon or between the same warp threads of two superimposed layers. The barb will then be able to pass through this zone of the ribbon, engaging between the weft threads and the warp threads released from the weft, without risking damaging either of these threads.

L'invention n'est évidemment pas limitée à la nature décrite des fils composant le ruban. Au lieu d'être faits en matière synthétique, une partie ou l'ensemble de ces fils peut consister en fibres naturelles, nues ou enrobées de matière synthétique.The invention is obviously not limited to the described nature of the wires making up the ribbon. Instead of being made of synthetic material, part or all of these threads can consist of natural fibers, bare or coated with synthetic material.

La fixation d'une boucle avec ardillon à une extrémité du ruban selon l'invention ne présente aucune difficulté. Il suffit d'engager cette extrémité du ruban dans la boucle ou une partie de celle-ci, de la replier sur le reste du ruban et de la fixer à ce dernier, par exemple au moyen d'un ou de plusieurs rivets. Elle peut aussi y être fixée par soudage, couture ou collage. Si les fils du ruban et la boucle sont en matière synthétique, l'extrémité du ruban peut même être soudée directement à la boucle.Attaching a pin buckle to one end of the ribbon according to the invention presents no difficulty. It suffices to engage this end of the ribbon in the loop or a part of it, to fold it over the rest of the ribbon and to fix it to the latter, for example by means of one or more rivets. It can also be fixed to it by welding, sewing or gluing. If the ribbon wires and the loop are made of synthetic material, the end of the ribbon can even be soldered directly to the loop.

Lorsque l'invention est utilisée spécifiquement dans la fabrication de bracelets de montre, il n'est pas indispensable de limiter le tissage à chaque brin de bracelet individuel. On tissera, au contraire, une longue bande, dont la largeur sera un multiple de celle des brins du bracelet à fabriquer. De place en place, en travers de cette bande, on tissera de façon moins serrée, comme décrit ci-dessus, d'étroites parties dont l'écartement entre elles correspondra à la largeur des bracelets, puis on découpera ces derniers dans la dite bande, à la longueur voulue.When the invention is used specifically in the manufacture of watch straps, it is not essential to limit the weaving to each strand of individual strap. On the contrary, a long strip will be woven, the width of which will be a multiple of that of the strands of the bracelet to be manufactured. From place to place, across this band, we will weave in a less tight way, as described above, narrow parts whose spacing between them will correspond to the width of the bracelets, then we will cut them in said band , to the desired length.

Si au moins le fil de trame est en matière synthétique, le découpage à la largeur des brins de bracelets peut être effectué avantageusement à chaud, par exemple par ultrasons. Cette façon de procéder assurera du même coup le soudage entre elles des extrémités des fils de trame le long des bords du bracelet.If at least the weft thread is made of synthetic material, the cutting to the width of the strands of bracelets can advantageously be carried out hot, for example by ultrasound. This procedure will at the same time ensure the welding together of the ends of the weft threads along the edges of the bracelet.

Si, en revanche, le fil de trame est d'origine naturelle, le découpage en question devra être effectué mécaniquement. Ensuite, il faudra border les brins de bracelet par couture pour éviter l'effilo- chement. Cela est naturellement aussi valable pour les extrémités de ces brins.If, on the other hand, the weft thread is of natural origin, the cutting in question must be carried out mechanically. Then, it will be necessary to border the bracelet strands by sewing to avoid fraying. This naturally also applies to the ends of these strands.

Enfin, si les fils composant le ruban sont mixtes, c'est-à-dire s'ils sont composés d'une âme en fibre naturelle, par exemple en coton, gaînée de matière synthétique, par exemple en PVC, le découpage pourra être effectué par haute fréquence, ce qui assurera du même coup le soudage entre elles des extrémités de ces fils.Finally, if the threads making up the ribbon are mixed, that is to say if they are composed of a core of natural fiber, for example cotton, sheathed with synthetic material, for example PVC, cutting can be performed by high frequency, which will ensure at the same time the welding between them of the ends of these wires.

La fixation des brins du bracelet aux anses de la boîte de montre peut s'effectuer de manière analogue à celles décrites ci-dessus à une boucle. Le brin de bracelet s'étendant de la boîte de montre à la boucle avec ardillon n'a naturellement pas besoin de présenter une étroite partie centrale tissée de façon moins serrée, si ce n'est pour sauvegarder la continuité de l'aspect du bracelet.Attaching the strands of the bracelet to the handles of the watch case can be carried out in a similar manner to those described above with a loop. The bracelet strand extending from the watch case to the pin buckle naturally does not need to have a narrow central part woven less loosely, except to save the continuity of the appearance of the bracelet .

Claims (11)

1. A woven ribbon, especially for a belt, thong, strap, handbag handle or watch wristlet, one extremity of which is designed to be secured at an adjustable distance from a buckle with a tang, said ribbon comprising weft threads (4, 5; 11; 21, 22) and warp threads (6-9; 13; 25) disposed along the width and length thereof respectively and presenting in a narrow part (8, 9; 10; 19; 23) of its width at least one zone adapted to be secured to the buckle in which the weave is less closely woven than elsewhere, characterized by the fact that the weft threads are threads which are at least partially composed of synthetic material and by the fact that it is woven in such a way that the weft threads are joined in pairs of adjacent weft threads by the warp threads.
2. A ribbon according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the weft threads (4, 5; 11; 21; 22) are solid threads, entirely of synthetic material.
3. A ribbon according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by the fact that the warp threads (6-9; 13; 25) are composed of very fine fibre clusters and / or are slightly twisted.
4. A ribbon according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by the fact that in said narrow part of the ribbon the warp threads (8, 9) are less close to one another than in the other parts of the ribbon.
5. A ribbon according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by the fact that said narrow part (10; 19; 23) of the ribbon is only composed of weft threads.
6. A ribbon according to claim 5, characterized in that on both sides of said narrow part (10; 19; 23) of the ribbon there is woven a warp thread (24) or a pair (14) of adjacent warp threads, said warp threads (14; 24) being solid, thin and stiff and passing alternately from one side to the other of the consecutive pairs (20) of weft threads (21, 22).
7. A ribbon according to claim 6, characterized in that the weft threads form triplets (12) of close pairs of adjacent threads, the space between the triplets being larger than that between the pairs of adjacent threads of a triplet and in that the warp threads (13) are woven in two surim- posed layers, each partly visible on one face of the ribbon, the parts of the warp threads of one of these layers, which are visible on one side of the ribbon, passing on the same side of three successive pairs of adjacent weft threads and covering the parts of the warp threads of the other layer which pass on this same side as that of the pairs of weft threads which are located between the two others, both two warp threads of one or other of the two layers passing on the same side of three same pairs of weft threads, the single or the two parts of the warp threads next to that of the same layer, which pass on the same side of three successive pairs of weft threads, pass on the other side of the median pair of weft threads.
8. A ribbon according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the two warp threads (15, 16) next to the solid and thin warp threads (14) pass alternately, the one (16) from one to the other side of each consecutive pair of weft threads, and the other (15) from one to the other side of each consecutive triplet (12) of weft threads.
9. A ribbon according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the two layers of warp threads have different colours, the warp threads of one layer passing, from place to place (17, 18), from one side to the other of the weft.
10. A ribbon according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that only a few warp threads (25), situated on both sides of said narrow part (23) of the ribbon, have the same colour as the weft threads.
11. A ribbon according to claim 1, characterized in that in the zone of the ribbon to be secured to a buckle with a tang, the weft threads pass on the same side of the warp threads situated in said narrow part of the ribbon, in the middle of its width.
EP87117926A 1986-12-15 1987-12-04 Woven tape Expired - Lifetime EP0276414B1 (en)

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AT87117926T ATE65807T1 (en) 1986-12-15 1987-12-04 WOVEN BAND.

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FR8617626 1986-12-15
FR8617626A FR2608176B1 (en) 1986-12-15 1986-12-15 WOVEN TAPE

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EP0276414B1 true EP0276414B1 (en) 1991-07-31

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JP (1) JPS63211340A (en)
KR (1) KR930002871B1 (en)
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AR (1) AR243614A1 (en)
AT (1) ATE65807T1 (en)
BR (1) BR8706809A (en)
DE (1) DE3771864D1 (en)
ES (1) ES2025622T3 (en)
FR (1) FR2608176B1 (en)
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FR2608176B1 (en) 1991-01-11
SG88794G (en) 1994-10-14
HK142494A (en) 1994-12-23
DE3771864D1 (en) 1991-09-05
JPH0433897B2 (en) 1992-06-04
AR243614A1 (en) 1993-08-31
CN87108393A (en) 1988-06-29
EP0276414A1 (en) 1988-08-03
BR8706809A (en) 1988-07-19
KR930002871B1 (en) 1993-04-12
JPS63211340A (en) 1988-09-02
KR880007839A (en) 1988-08-29
ATE65807T1 (en) 1991-08-15
ES2025622T3 (en) 1992-04-01
US4846230A (en) 1989-07-11
FR2608176A1 (en) 1988-06-17
CN1017635B (en) 1992-07-29

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