EP0130096B1 - Apparatus for producing shirt cuffs - Google Patents

Abstract

There is provided an automatic shirt cuff manufacturing unit comprising an overcast stitching machine, a buttonhole forming machine and a button sewing machine. The unit includes means for conveying the cuff to the overcast stitching machine, means for removing the cuff from the overcast stitching machine, means for positioning at least one of the ends of the cuff with respect to one of the working heads of the buttonhole forming and button sewing machines, the working heads of said machines being arranged opposite one another, means for orienting the cuff so that it assumes the proper orientation, or an orientation at 180 DEG from it, under the working heads, means for bringing the cuff under said heads while maintaining it in correct position, and means for removing the cuff from the machines.

Description

The subject of the present invention is an installation for manufacturing shirt cuffs comprising a stitching machine, a machine for making the buttonhole, a machine for sewing the button on the wrist, means for bringing the wrist to the stitching machine, means for positioning at least one of the ends of the wrist relative to at least one of the working heads of the buttonhole machine and of the button sewing machine, said heads being arranged opposite one on the other, means for bringing the wrist under said heads while maintaining them in the correct position and means for moving the wrist away from the buttonhole and button sewing machines.

Such an installation is shown in the document nMelliand Textilberichte ", vol. 59, no 5, May 1978, pages 396-398. However, in this document, the means for positioning the ends of the wrist relative to said working heads of the buttonhole machine and button sewing machine are not described.

Furthermore, document US-A-2 985 112 describes an installation comprising a button sewing machine and a buttonhole machine, the working heads of which are arranged opposite one another, and a device for bring the wrist under said heads consisting of an endless chain conveyor equipped with trays on which an operator comes to place the wrists in a predetermined position. This installation does not allow automatic feeding of button and buttonhole machines or automatic adaptation to wrists of different types and dimensions.

The purpose of the present invention is to allow fully automatic operation of such an installation with the possibility of manufacturing indifferently, and without any manual intervention, right wrists and left wrists of different dimensions.

The installation which is the subject of the present invention is characterized in that the means for positioning at least one end of the wrist comprise a turntable with a vertical axis, the plane of which is situated at the same level as the table of the topstitching machine and of the machines for sew the button and make the buttonhole, this plate making it possible to orient the wrist so that it is presented in an adequate orientation or an orientation at 180 ° this under the heads of said machines, and a pushing device which moves the wrist on said tray to bring the button-buttonhole line of the wrist coincident with a diameter of the tray, said device comprising a plurality of eclipsable fingers that can be moved perpendicularly to said diameter.

According to a first embodiment, the means for positioning at least one end of the wrist further include a device making it possible to bring the ends of the wrist together and to bring them at a predetermined distance from each other corresponding to the spacing of the heads. working buttonhole and button sewing machines. According to another embodiment, these means comprise a device making it possible to move the wrist longitudinally in order to position one of its ends relative to the working head of one of the buttonhole and button sewing machines, said button machine being fixed, detect the other end of the wrist and control the movement of the other machine which is mobile, to adapt the spacing of the working heads to the size of the wrist.

The directions of movement of the wrist from the topstitching machine towards the turntable, on the one hand, and from the latter towards the buttonhole and button-sewing machines, on the other hand, can be parallel or perpendicular. The amplitude and the direction of rotation of the plate depend on the arrangement chosen and the type of wrist, right or left, to be manufactured. With the parallel arrangement, for a first type of wrist, it is not necessary to rotate the plate, the wrist being only moved in translation from the topstitching machine to the machines for making the buttonhole and sewing the button with a stop on the tray to position it; for the other type of wrist, the plate is rotated 180 ° before transferring the wrist to said machines. With the perpendicular arrangement, you must rotate the plate 90 ° in one direction or the other, depending on the type of wrist, before transferring the wrist to the buttonhole and button sewing machines. The different positions in which the plate must be brought and maintained for a certain time are fixed by stops, some of which are retractable in the case of a perpendicular arrangement.

The installation may further include a shaping machine placed upstream of the stitching machine, means for transferring the wrist from one machine to another, a storage stacker placed downstream of the buttonhole and sew the button and means to transfer the wrist of these machines to the stacker and to introduce it into the latter.

According to a particular embodiment, a magazine is provided between the shaping machine and the topstitching machine.

Other characteristics of the invention will appear on reading the description which follows, given with reference to the appended drawings and relating to two particular embodiments given by way of nonlimiting example.

FIG. 1 is a plan view schematically showing the entire installation according to a first embodiment,

FIG. 2 shows in perspective, a shaping machine and means for transferring the wrist from said machine to a store,

FIG. 3 shows in perspective, said magazine and means for transferring the wrist onto the table of the stitching machine,

FIG. 4 shows in perspective, the stitching machine and means for transferring the wrist to the turntable,

FIG. 5 representing in perspective, said turntable,

FIG. 6 represents in perspective, the means for transferring the wrist of the turntable to the level of the machines for making the buttonhole and sewing the button, and for moving it away towards a stacker,

FIG. 7 is a perspective view of said stacker,

FIG. 8 is a perspective view of part of the installation according to another embodiment,

FIG. 9 is a plan view of the turntable of the installation of FIG. 8, and

Figure 10 shows in perspective a detail of this installation.

In Figure 1, we see a conventional type of shaping machine consisting of a set of five plates 4 rotating around a vertical axis 3 in the manner of a carousel. The reference 1 designates the operator who introduces a sliding wrist into the feeder 2 of the machine. The latter restores the wrist 6 heat-bonded to station 5 when the introductory plate 4 has successively occupied the various stations of the conforming machine during its rotation around the axis 3.

The wrist 6 is then brought by means which will be described later, on the table 63 of a magazine 34. Each wrist 6 is successively brought by means also described below, on the table 64 of an overstitching machine 24 , then on a turntable 53 with vertical axis. Tables 63 and 64 and the tray 53 are located on the same level. From the tray 53 the wrist 6 is brought to the table 79 supporting a machine 44 for placing the button, placed opposite a machine 48 for making the buttonhole. The table 79 is arranged at the same level as the aforementioned tables but the direction of movement of the handle 6 is perpendicular to the direction of movement of said wrist on the tables 63 and 64.

In Figure 2, we see the wrist 6 heat sealed located in front of a gripping device. This device consists of a pair of clamps 8 controlled by two electromagnets 9 and mounted on a base 23 fixed to the rotor of a rotary actuator 10 with horizontal axis whose body is fixed to the end of the rods of an actuator with double rod 7. By rotation of 180 ° the base 23 is brought to the level of the table 63, the wrist then being on the base.

The correct position of the wrist 6 at station 5 is controlled by photocells 80 (fig. 3). The magazine 34 with a capacity of ten wrists, for example, allows the half-time use of the conforming machine when its production rate is double that of downstream equipment.

In FIG. 3, we see a clamp 12 which feeds the ten stations of the store 34 taking charge of the wrist 6 when the clamps 8 have been put out of service by the electromagnets 9. This support is ensured by a jack pneumatic 13. The clamp 12 and the wrist 6 which it drives by sliding it on the base 23 then on the table 63 are moved linearly by a rodless hydraulic cylinder 14, a clamp holder carriage 32 being guided by a column system- ball bushings 33.

A presence detector 17 of the wrists 6, integral with the clamp 12, causes the latter to stop at the store station 34 immediately preceding a position occupied by a wrist 6. Given the response time of the control members, the stop position is related to the speed of advance of the hydraulic cylinder 14. The clamp 12 then releases the wrist 6 which is held in position on the table 63 by suction openings 52. The rotation of the rotary cylinder 10 is done always cylinder rods 7 retracted. So that the clamp 12 does not interfere with this rotation a waiting position is provided for the latter.

A step-by-step advance of the wrist 6 is controlled by fingers 21 integral with a shaft 15 driven in rotation by a jack 18. This shaft is carried by a movable assembly whose linear guidance is provided by a column-ball bushing system 19, the movement of a step being ensured by a pneumatic jack 20. The fingers 21 ensuring the step-by-step transfer of the wrist 6 onto the table 63, each consist of a spring leaf provided at its end with a pad rubber 22.

The unloading of the magazine 34 with a view to feeding the topstitching machine 24 is illustrated in FIG. 4. This unloading is ensured by a clamp 16 which ensures the transfer of the wrists 6 under conditions similar to those of the clamp 12. The jack 25 without drive rod, here is pneumatic. The machine 24 of a conventional type, performs the stitching operation in a manner known per se.

An arm 26 transfers the overstitched wrist 6 from the machine 24 to the turntable 53, which follows tables 63 and 64 and is arranged at the same level as these. The arm 26 is articulated on an axis 28 around which it rocks under the action of a jack 29. This arrangement has the advantage of making it possible to pass it in front of the machine 24 while the shoe 30 of said machine rotates around its axis 31 for manipulating the wrist 6 during the stitching operation.

The purpose of the turntable 53 is to position the wrist so that a theoretical line 27 joining the implantation points A and B provided for the button and the buttonhole is parallel to the plane defined by the axes 77 and 78 of the working heads. of the two machines 44 and 48 and that the distance between points A and B is equal to the spacing of the axes of the two heads.

On leaving the topstitching machine, the wrist 6 is not always correctly positioned and the first operation consists in bringing the line 27 into coincidence with a diameter 37 of the turntable; when the plate is in a first position which it occupies when the wrist is brought there by the clamp 16, this diameter is perpendicular to the direction of movement of the wrist on the tables 63 and 64 represented in the drawing by the line 38. After that the arm 26 has been moved away from the turntable, the wrist is pushed by two fingers 35 moved by a pneumatic cylinder 36 until the line 27 coincides with the diameter 37 of the tray; the fingers 35 are then raised and brought into the retracted position by the jack 36. The assembly constituted by the fingers 35, the device for controlling the movements of the fingers and their support is mounted in a fixed position in a position diametrically opposite to the stitching in relation to the center of the plate.

This positioning carried out, the turntable 53 supports the wrist 6. To this end, a clamp 39 moved in translation by a pneumatically controlled carriage 40, starts from its rear stop position and moves towards the center of the tray to support one end of the wrist 6 as soon as, during the advance, a photoelectric cell 51 carried by the clamp 39 detects the edge of said wrist and controls the electromagnet 42 for closing the clamp 39 which then drives the wrist 6 until the end of the stroke of the carriage 40.

Simultaneously, and by a strictly identical process, a clamp 45 takes charge of the other end of the wrist 6 after detection of the edge of the latter, and drives it until the end of the travel of a carriage 46.

During the advance of the clamps 39 and 45, the wrist 6 forms a loop oriented downwards inside a chute 49 practiced diametrically in the turntable 53 perpendicular to the line 37. This is achieved by means of a finger 50 (fig. 6) controlled by an electromagnet 51. Said finger by lowering itself instantly bends the wrist 6 downwards, failing which the position of the loop would be random (possibly above the plate 53).

Adjustable stops fix the limit switches of the carriages 40 and 46 so that, after the operations described above, the distance between point A where the button is to be sewn and point B where the buttonhole is to be formed is equal at the spacing between the axes 77 and 78 of the heads of the machines 44 and 48 whatever the size of the wrist.

The positions of the cells 41 on the clamps 39 and 45 are adjustable and fixed as a function of the distances separating the points A and B from the adjacent edges of the wrist.

When the wrist 6 is placed in the correct position, the turntable 53 rotates 90 °; the plate is driven in rotation by a rotary pneumatic cylinder 83. The rotation is carried out in one direction or the other depending on whether it is a right wrist or a left wrist. The overstitched wrist always arrives in the same position on the plate 53 and must therefore be rotated 90 ° in one direction if it is a straight wrist, and in the opposite direction, if it is a 'a left wrist to bring point A, respectively point B, in alignment with the axis 77 of the machine head 44, respectively of the axis 77 of the machine head 48. By rotation of 90 ° the line 27 joining the points A and B is brought to be parallel to the plane containing the axes 77 and 78 of the heads of the machines 44 and 48.

The position in which the plate is located when it receives the wrist of the topstitching machine is fixed by two eclipsable stops 54 controlled by two pneumatic cylinders 55. The two positions in which the plate is brought by rotation of 90 ° in one direction or in the other, are fixed by two fixed stops 81. These stops are placed under the plate and cooperate with pins fixed to the plate. To rotate the plate from its first position, in one direction or the other, we must first eclipse the corresponding stop 54; it must also be overshadowed to allow the tray to return to its first position.

After rotation of the plate 53, the wrist 6 is supported by a transfer arm 56, as can be seen in FIG. 6. This arm is provided with two grippers 57 and 58 controlled by a single pneumatic cylinder 59. These grippers and this jack are carried by a carriage 60 guided by a column-bushing ball system 61 and driven by a pneumatic jack without rod 62. This assembly is constructed so as to be able to be interposed between the heads of the machines 44 and 48 in view of the corresponding operations.

The clamp 57 is produced so as to be able to pass between the clamps 39 and 45 to take up the wrist 6 on the turntable 53. The clamps 39 and 45 do not let go of the wrist until after the clamp 57 has been applied thereto so that it cannot accidentally change position.

The wrist is brought under the heads of the machines 44 and 48 by the clamp 57 by sliding on the plate 53 and on the table 79, the path of the points A and B being represented in FIG. 5 by the lines 43 and 47. In the table 79 is formed a chute 66 extending the chute 49 of the plate 53 when the latter has made a rotation of 90 ° (FIG. 6) and in which the loop formed by the wrist moves during its transfer from the plate 53 to the machines 44 and 48.

When the wrist 6 is provided with its buttonhole and its button, the clamp 58 ensures its evacuation towards a stacker 65. This clamp holds the wrist 6 on one side only to allow it to deploy while escaping from the chute 66, helped in this by the inclined plane 67 which follows the flat bottom of the troughs 49 and 66. In at the same time as one wrist is evacuated towards the stacker, another wrist is brought by the clamp 57 to the machines 44 and 48.

In Figure 7, we see a deflector 82 which forces the wrists 6 released by the clamp 58 to fall between a grid 68 and a pusher 69 of complementary shapes. The wrists 6 are offset laterally and alternately to the left and to the right under the action of a finger 70 secured to a cylinder 71 of short stroke to avoid the superposition of the buttons in the stacker.

The vertical retraction of the grid 68 is caused by a jack 72, which allows the wrists previously stored to be brought into contact with the wrist 6 inserted between grid 68 and pusher 69. Constant pressure is ensured on the wrists stacked by a carriage 75 rolling on the storage plane of the stacker 65 by means of rolling balls 76. The pusher 69 then advances a few centimeters under the action of the jack 73 until it is plumb with the grid 68. The pusher 69 is guided by a column-bush system 74. The grid 68 then rises in the corresponding imprints of the pusher 69. The latter moves back to its starting position and the stacker 65 is then ready to receive a new wrist 6.

All of the control of the elements that have just been described as well as the control of the machine heads can be ensured by a programmable controller or microprocessor system. Each end position is detected by proximity sensor and transmitted to the PLC for example. In most cases, the rapid movements of the cylinders are decelerated at the end of the stroke by hydraulic shock absorbers.

All the different stations work advantageously in automatic mode. A single operator is required to insert the wrist into the feeder of the conforming machine.

An in-line configuration of the topstitching station, the turntable and the button-buttonhole station would avoid retractable stops. The square arrangement of these stations on either side of the turntable, described above is nevertheless advantageous from the point of view of space.

Figures 8 to 10 show another embodiment. In these figures, the elements which are identical to or which fulfill the same functions as elements of the embodiment of FIGS. 1 to 7 have for reference number that of the element corresponding to the first embodiment increased by 100. In order not to complicate the drawings, the means of bringing the wrist to the stitching machine, the means of transferring the wrist between this machine and the plate and between the latter and the button sewing machines and in forming the buttonhole and the means for evacuate the completed wrist were not shown.

In this embodiment, the topstitching machine 124 and the button and buttonhole sewing machines 144 and 148 are arranged in line. Consequently, for one type of wrist, for example a straight wrist, it will not be necessary to rotate the plate 153 before transferring the wrist to the machines 144 and 148 and for the other type of wrist it will be necessary to rotate the plate 180 °.

The fingers 135 used to position the wrist so that the line AB coincides with the diameter 137 of the plate are carried by the latter. The fingers are rotatably mounted on a shaft 200 arranged under the plate 153 parallel to the diameter 137 and the ends of which are supported by slides 202 mounted on horizontal rods 204 arranged perpendicularly to the shaft 200. The displacements of the shaft 200 and fingers 135 parallel to the rods 204 are provided by a jack 136.

The fingers 135 protrude from the top of the plate 153 through slots 206 cut therefrom and parallel to the rods 204. Counterweights 208 and stops limiting the rotation of the fingers on the shaft 200 under the action of these counterweights normally hold the fingers upright; the counterweights could be replaced by springs.

The movement of the movable assembly constituted by the fingers 135, the shaft 200 and the slides 202 towards the center of the plate is limited by adjustable stops. It is during this movement that the fingers push the wrist to bring the line A-B of the wrist in coincidence with the diameter 137 of the plate. The displacement in the opposite direction of this movable assembly brings the fingers 135 into abutment against the ends of the slots 206 furthest from the center of the plate 153, then causes the fingers, which rotate on the shaft 200, to tilt and eclipse them under the tray. A locking system makes it possible to make one or more fingers inactive by keeping them under the plate during the entire course of the moving assembly.

A movable arm 210 provided with a clamp 212 and maneuverable by a jack 214 makes it possible to move the wrist parallel to the diameter 137 after the clamp has been applied to the wrist by a jack 216 which causes the arm to tilt.

Clamps 218 actuated by jacks 220 mounted on brackets fixed on the plate keep the wrist in position on the plate during its rotation.

Two photoelectric cells 222 are placed in slots 224 formed in the tray, parallel to the diameter 137, so as to be flush with the upper face of the tray. These cells are arranged symmetrically with respect to the diameter 226 perpendicular to the diameter 137. Each cell is associated with a light source so that it is excited each time a surface forming a reflecting screen is placed above it, on the tray. The position of cells in lights is adjustable.

Unlike the machine 148, which is mounted in a fixed position as in the previous embodiment, the machine 144 is mounted on a table 228 provided with movable guides on bars 230 arranged perpendicular to the direction of movement of the wrist between the machine 124 , the plate 153 and the machines 144 and 148. A geared motor group 232 whose output pinion meshes with a rack fixed to the table 228 makes it possible to move the latter along the bars 230.

A bracket 234 fixed on the table 228 carries at its free end a photoelectric cell 236 associated with a light source. The point of impact on the plate of the light rays emitted by this source is located on the diameter 137 and describes a portion of this diameter when the machine 148 is moving while the plate is in one or the other of its fixed stop positions. These two portions of the surface of the tray are covered with a reflective coating, so that the current emitted by the cell, which is normally excited by the rays reflected on the tray, decreases in intensity when an object forming a screen is placed under the point of impact of the incident rays.

To allow movement of the machine 144, an empty space must be left between its table and that of the machine 148. To close this space and support the wrist during the fitting of the button and the manufacture of the buttonhole, pivoting flaps 238 are used (FIG. 10) secured to a horizontal shaft 240 whose rotation is controlled by a jack 242 to move the flaps between a horizontal position, in the plane of the machine tables 144 and 148 and a vertical position, below this plane. The flaps are independent of each other and each of them is made integral with the shaft 240 by a latch constituted by a ball 244 normally held in a cavity 246 of the shaft by spring.

A stop 248 integral with the table of the machine 144 can prevent the upward rotation of one or more flaps, depending on the position of the machine. When this stop is located in front of a flap, the ball 244 of this flap emerges from the cavity 246 when the shaft 240 is rotated and only the other flaps are brought into a horizontal position.

To explain the operation of the assembly described above, it will first be assumed that the wrist is brought to the plate in the position shown in FIG. 8, that is to say that point A where must be attached the button is on the side of the button sewing machine 144 and, therefore, point B where the buttonhole is to be formed is on the side of the machine 148. The wrist is brought from the topstitching machine 124 to the plate 153 by a transfer arm such as that described with reference to FIG. 4. Generally, this arm will abandon the wrist on the plate in a position such that the line AB will not coincide with the diameter 137. This coincidence is achieved by means of the fingers 135 which are moved by the jack 136 and push the wrist to bring it into the correct position. When this operation is finished, the clamp 212 is applied to the wrist and the arm 210, which was in the retracted position, is moved towards the center of the plate 153 by driving the wrist. When the edge of the wrist located on the side of the arm 210 arrives at the level of the cell 222 situated on the same side, the latter which was hitherto covered by the wrist detects a reduction in the reflected light energy and the resulting signal controls the stopping the arm 210, tightening the clamps 218, lifting the clamp 212 and withdrawing the arm 210; point B is then aligned with axis 178 of machine 148. Machine 144 is then moved, by means of motor 232, until cell 236 detects the other edge of the wrist by varying the intensity of reflected light. The cell then controls the stopping of the motor 232, and the flaps 238, which were eclipsed, are brought back to a horizontal position. The point A is then aligned with the axis 177 of the machine 144. A pliers similar to the pliers 57 of the first embodiment is then applied to the wrist, the pliers 218 are separated and the wrist is transferred to the machines 144 and 148.

If the wrist arrives on the plate 153 in the reverse position, that is to say if point A is on the side of the machine 148 and point B on the side of the machine 144, it must be rotated 180 ° to bring it to the correct position. Positioning along the diameter 137 by means of the fingers 135 is carried out as in the first case. The wrist is then pushed by the arm 210, which moves towards the center of the plate, but in this case, the other cell 222 is used, that is to say the one located on the side of the machine 144 for detect the other edge of the wrist. When this edge arrives at this cell, the arm 210 is stopped, the clamps 218 applied to the wrist, the clamp 212 raised and the arm 210 retracted; then the plate 153 is rotated 180 ° by means of the rotary actuator 83. We are then brought back to the previous case and the following operations are the same: movement of the machine 144 which is positioned relative to the edge of the wrist located on its side, setting up the flaps 238, lifting the clamps 218 and transferring the wrist to the machines 144 and 148. The plate 153 is then returned to its initial position by rotation of 180 ° in the opposite direction and a new wrist can be loaded there.

Instead of moving the button sewing machine, to position it relative to the edge of the wrist, we could obviously move the buttonhole machine, the other machine then being stationary.

Although the invention has been described with reference to two particular embodiments, it goes without saying that it is in no way limited thereto and that modifications can be made thereto without departing from its field.

We can, of course, replace any of the means described by a means technically equivalent.

The invention therefore covers, in addition to the examples described, their various possible alternative embodiments, within the limits defined by the claims.

Claims (27)

1. Installation for producing shirt cuffs consisting of an overcast stitching machine (24, 124), a buttonhole forming machine (48, 148), a cuff button sewing machine (6), means to bring the cuff (6) to the overcast stitching machine, means to move the cuff (6) away from the overcast stitching machine, means to position at least one of the cuff ends with respect to at least one of the working heads of the buttonhole forming and button sewing machines, the said heads facing each other, means to bring the cuff (6) below the said heads and holding it in the right position and means to move the cuff (6) away from the buttonhole forming and button sewing machines, characterized by the fact that the means to position at least one end of the cuff (6) includes a rotary tray (53, 153) having a vertical axis and which is positioned on the same plane as the table of the overcast stitching machine (24, 124) and button sewing and buttonhole forming machines (44-48,144-148), this tray permitting to orientate the cuff (6) so that it arrives with the proper orientation or an orientation at 180° with respect to the latter under the heads of the said machines (44-48, 144-148), and a pushing device which moves the cuff on the said tray to bring the cuff button- buttonhole line (AB) in coincidence with diameter (37, 137) of the tray, the said device being fitted with several retractable fingers (35, 135) which are movable perpendicularly to the said diameter.

2. Installation according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the means to position at least one end of the cuff (6) are so arranged as to bring closer to each other the ends of the said cuff in order to bring them to a preset distance from each other, the said distance corresponding to the distance between the working heads of the buttonhole forming and button sewing machines (48-44).

3. Installation according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the means to position at least one end of the cuff (6) are so arranged as to move the said cuff lenghtwise to position one of its ends with respect to the working head of one of the buttonhole forming and button sewing machines (148 or 144), the said machine being stationary, to detect the other end of the cuff (6) by a detection means (236), and to control, using the said means, the displacement of the other of said machines (144 or 148) which is mobile, in order to adjust the distance between the working heads of these machines to the cuff size (6).

4. Installation according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the pushing device (35) is fixedly mounted.

5. Installation according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the pushing device (135) is supported by the rotary tray (153).

6. Installation according to claim 5, characterized by the fact that the fingers (135) of the pushing device are rotatably mounted on a shaft (200) located under the tray, parallel to the said diameter (137) and that they protrude above the tray through slots (206) perpendicular to the said diameter (137), these fingers being movable in the said slots by means of a cylinder jack (136) acting on the said shaft.

7. Installation according to claim 6, characterized by the fact that the said fingers (135) are normally held in vertical position by counterweights (208) or springs and that they rock to retract when they are pushed by the said cylinder jack and abut against an end of the said slots.

8. Installation according to claim 2 and any one of claims 4 to 7, characterized by the fact that the means to position at least one end of the cuff (6) comprises two clamps (39, 45) supported by the rotary tray and moved by carriages (40, 46) to bring the cuff ends closer to each other until the distance that separates them corresponds to the distance between the working heads of the button sewing and buttonhole forming machines (44, 48).

9. Installation according to claim 8, characterited by the fact that during bringing of the cuff ends closer to each other, the cuff forms a loop which goes into a channel (49) made into the said rotary tray (53) along a diameter perpendicular to the direction of travel of the said clamps (39,45).

10. Installation according to claim 9, characterized by the fact that it comprises a finger (50) which exerts a force onto the cuff to push it into the said channel (49) and form the said loop.

11. Installation according to claim 3 and any one of claims 4 to 7, characterized by the fact that the said means to position one of the cuff ends include a clamp (212) adapted to engage the cuff and move it lengthwise on the tray and devices (222) supported by the tray to detect a cuff edge and cause the clamp to stop when this edge is positioned correctly with respect to one of the button sewing and buttonhole forming machines (144,148).

12. Installation according to claim 11, characterized by the fact that the detection means (236) for the other cuff end is mounted on the free end of a bracket (234), the foot of which is integral with the mobile machine (144) and which overhangs the tray.

13. Installation according to claim 11 or 12, characterized by the fact that the rotary tray (153) is fitted with two clamps (218) controlled by two cylinder jacks (220) to hold the cuff on the tray.

14. Installation according to claim 11, 12 or 13, characterized by the fact that it comprises several flaps (238) which are mounted so as to pivot around a horizontal axis in such a way as to be able to fit between the button sewing and 0 buttonhole forming machines (144, 148), at the level of the tables of these machines, and to retract by pivoting downwards to allow the displacement of the mobile machine (144).

15. Installation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that the directions of travel of the cuff between the overcast stitching machine (124) and the rotary tray (153) on the one hand, and between the tray and the button sewing and buttonhole forming machines (144, 148) on the other hand, are parallel, and by the fact that means (183) are provided to rotate the tray between two positions at 180° from each other and set by limit stops.

16. Installation according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized by the fact that the directions of travel of the cuff between the overcast stitching machine (24) and the rotary tray (53) on the one hand, and between the said tray and the button sewing and buttonhole forming machines (44,48) on the other hand, are perpendicular, and by the fact that means (83) are provided to rotate the tray by 90° from a central position set by retractable stops (54), to either one of two other positions at 90° from the central position and which are set by limit stops (81).

17. Installation according to any one of the previous claims, characterized by the fact that it further comprises a forming machine (34) located upstream of the overcast stitching machine (24) and means to transfer the cuff (6) from the forming machine to the overcast stitching machine which includes a prehension device capable of grabbing the cuff (6) and of bringing it to the level of the table (64) of the overcast stitching machine (24) where it is taken over by a clamp (12 or 16), the said prehension device consisting of a pair of clamps (8) controlled by two electro-magnets (9) mounted on a baseplate (23) which is integral with the rotor of a rotary cylinder jack (10) capable of turning over the said baseplate and of reversing the position of the cuff (6) to have it taken over by the means used to bring the cuff to the overcast stitching machine (12,16).

18. Installation according to claim 17, characterized by the fact that provision has been made for a storage space (34) between the prehension device and the overcast stitching machine (24).

19. Installation according to claim 18, characterized by the fact that a clamp (12) controlled by a pneumatic cylinder jack (13) takes over the cuff (6) to bring it to a section of the storage space (34) and a detector (17) integral with the clamp (12) is provided to detect the presence of the cuffs (6), the said detector causing the said clamp to stop in the section of the storage space (34) immediately preceding an occupied one.

20. Installation according to claim 19, characterized by the fact that each cuff (6) released by the clamp (12) is held on the table (63) of the storage space (34) by suction openings (52).

21. Installation according to claim 19 or 20, characterized by the fact that the step-by-step advance of the cuff (6) is controlled by fingers (21) integral with a shaft (15) moved lengthwise by a cylinder jack (20), the rotation of this shaft being controlled by a cylinder jack (18) to apply the fingers onto the cuff.

22. Installation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that the means to move the cuff (6) away from the overcast stitching machine (24) consists of a clamp support arm (26) which is pivotable about a horizontal axis (28) by means of a cylinder jack (29).

23. Installation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that the means to bring the cuff (6) below the working heads (78, 77) of the buttonhole forming and button sewing machines (48, 44), to hold the said cuff in position and to move it away from the said machines, includes a transfer arm (56) fitted with two clamps (57, 58) controlled by a single cylinder jack (59), these clamps and this cylinder jack (62) being mounted on a carriage (60) driven by a cylinder jack (62), and by the fact that one of the clamps (57) brings the cuff (6) below the said working heads, while the other clamp (58) ensures the evacuation of the said cuff fitted with its button and buttonhole.

24. Installation according to claims 9 and 23, characterized by the fact that a channel (66) capable of receiving the loop formed by the cuff (6) is fitted in the table (79) of the button sewing and buttonhole forming machines (44 and 48), and by the fact that the said other clamp (58) which ensures the evacuation of the cuff holds it on one side only in order to let it spread out flat on the said table (70) while leaving the said channel (66), the bottom of which consists of an inclined plane (67) downstream of the said button sewing and buttonhole forming machines.

25. Installation according to claim 23 or 24, characterized by the fact that it further comprises a storage piling-up device (65) including a grate (68) and a pusher (69) of complementary forms, and means for feeding the said device, the said means including the said other clamp (58) and a deflector (82).

26. Installation according to claim 25, characterized by the fact that it comprises a finger (70) actuated by a cylinder jack (71) which moves the cuffs sideways and alternately in one direction and in the other when they are between the grate (68) and the pusher (69) of the piling-up device.

27. Installation according to claim 25 or 26, characterized by the fact that cylinder jacks (72) and (73), respectively controlling the retraction of the grate (68) and the advance of the pusher (69) in the plane of the said grate, are used to insert the cuff (6) into the pile, the grate (68) and the pusher (69) being then returned to their initial positions, while a constant pressure is applied onto the piled up cuffs, by a carriage (75) running by means of balls (76) on the storage plane of the piling-up device (65).

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