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EP0047232B1 - Dispositif d'ancrage pour l'escalade - Google Patents

Dispositif d'ancrage pour l'escalade Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0047232B1
EP0047232B1 EP19810850145 EP81850145A EP0047232B1 EP 0047232 B1 EP0047232 B1 EP 0047232B1 EP 19810850145 EP19810850145 EP 19810850145 EP 81850145 A EP81850145 A EP 81850145A EP 0047232 B1 EP0047232 B1 EP 0047232B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
wedges
wedge
load
members
anchoring device
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP19810850145
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0047232A2 (fr
EP0047232A3 (en
Inventor
Ingemar Mellgard
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Salewa Sportgeraete GmbH
Original Assignee
SALEWA SPORTGERATE GmbH
Salewa Sportgeraete GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by SALEWA SPORTGERATE GmbH, Salewa Sportgeraete GmbH filed Critical SALEWA SPORTGERATE GmbH
Priority to AT81850145T priority Critical patent/ATE20642T1/de
Publication of EP0047232A2 publication Critical patent/EP0047232A2/fr
Publication of EP0047232A3 publication Critical patent/EP0047232A3/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0047232B1 publication Critical patent/EP0047232B1/fr
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons
    • A63B29/024—Climbing chocks

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a device for releasable anchoring in slots having opposite walls, in particular slots having essentially parallel walls.
  • the device can be attached or released with one hand in a simple and rapid way. It is primarily intended for use in mountain climbing to obtain an anchor in rock cracks.
  • the object of the present invention is to bring forward a device which does not possess the disadvantages and limitations mentioned in the foregoing.
  • This object has been attained by a device which has the characterizing features given in the appended claims.
  • According to the invention there is thus obtained a device which can be handled with one hand and stays safely in place, and which can be made so that a single device suits a very wide range of different slot- sizes including parallel-sided slots and slots being less wide than 2 cm.
  • the device comprises only a few parts and is inexpensive to produce.
  • the invention will in the following be explained in detail with reference to some embodiments shown in the annexed drawings wherein fig. 1 illustrates one particular embodiment of the invention, and fig. 2-5 illustrate various types of wedges which can be used in the device according to the invention.
  • the wedge-shaped member 1 to the left in fig. 1 is in the following denoted “loading wedge”, because it is intended to support an outer load (e.g. a climber) which is , attached to the attachment eye 3.
  • the wedge-shaped member 2 to the right is denoted “locking wedge”, because it is intended to lock the loading wedge in the desired fixed position by friction against the slot wall.
  • a calculation of the forces which work on the wedges shows that a prerequisite for the desired locking to take place when a downward force is applied to the attachment eye 3 is that tang v, where v is the angle in fig. 1 which is formed between the left angle-cut side of the locking wedge and the right wall of the slot, is less than the coefficient of friction n between the locking wedge and the right wall of the slot, provided that the coefficient of friction no between the locking wedge and the loading wedge can be neglected. If this last-mentioned friction can not be neglected then the criterion is that tang (v+V o ), where Vo is the angle whose tang is no, has to be less than n.
  • the coefficient of friction no should be as low as possible and the coefficient of friction n should be as high as possible, in order to obtain a safe lock.
  • the coefficient of friction n may be about 0.5 or more, which means that the angle v has to be less than c:a 25°.
  • the angle v should preferably be between 8-14°.
  • the loading wedge in fig. 1 is connected with an attachment eye 3 via a first load-bearing member 4.
  • This load bearing member should be rather long, and preferably between 15-30 cm (including the length of the attachment eye), so that the wedges if desired can be guided deeply into a slot.
  • the load-bearing member 4 should be flexible but sufficiently stiff that one without difficulty can guide the wedges to the desired position even when the device is only held closely to the attachment eye.
  • the load bearing member 4 may suitably consist of a stiff steel cable, the one end of which has ben formed to an attachment eye 3 to which the load can be applied with the aid of a carabiner or similar connecting means.
  • the load-bearing member 4 is surrounded by a spring means 5, illustrated by a coil-spring in fig. 1.
  • the one end of the spring is mounted close to the attachment eye and the other end is mounted to a second member 6.
  • the other end of this second member is mounted to the locking wedge.
  • the member 6 runs through a guide eye 7 which is mounted to the load-bearing member 4.
  • the member 6 is flexible and resilient so that the resilience and the guide eye holds the locking wedge in direct contact with the loading wedge side by side.
  • a stop lug 9 is mounted on the load-bearing member 4 to prevent the finger grip and thus, indirectly, the locking wedge from being displaced beyond a pre-selected end position. This end position is selected so that the locking wedge does not slide off the loading wedge or ceases to cooperate effectively with same.
  • the member 6 will only be subjected to a minor compressive strain from the spring, and may thus be made thinner than the load-bearing member 4 and may be made of elastic materials such as plastics or rubber with low tensile strength.
  • the fastening of the member 6 in the locking wedge may for example be made by simple gluing in a hole which has been drilled in the locking wedge.
  • the fastening of the load-bearing member 4 to the loading wedge must however be performed according to such known methods which give a more strong connection.
  • the load-bearing member 4 and the attachment eye 3 should in fact be able to withstand forces of between 4000-40 000 Newton when the device is used in mountain climbing.
  • the loading wedge and the locking wedge must. also withstand compressive forces of the order of 10 4 Newton, and are preferably made of metals such as steel, titanium, plain bearing metal, or aluminium alloys. In order to obtain a low coefficient of friction no between the common- contact surface of the loading wedge and the locking wedge, these surfaces may be treated by for example honing, polishing, teflon coating or other permanent or temporary lubricant coating.
  • the anchoring device according to the invention should preferably be designed so that one single device can be made to fasten in the widest possible range of different slot-widths.
  • it is suitable to have two load-bearing members mounted on the loading wedge on each side of the same, instead of having a single centrally mounted load-bearing member. It is then possible to displace the lower edge of the locking wedge close to the opposite wall of the slot, without interfering with the members mounted on the loading wedge, which means that the device can be used in more narrow slots than would otherwise be possible.
  • Fig. 2 illustrates a suitable configuration of a loading wedge and a locking wedge to achieve this. An additional advantage with this configuration is that the locking wedge slides in a groove in the loading wedge and is thus stabilized sideways.
  • FIG. 5 there is illustrated an embodiment of a loading wedge and locking wedge which is especially suitable when making a device according to the invention which is to be used in very narrow (e.g. 0.3-1.0 cm) vertical slots, in particular parallel slots or slots which slightly open up sideways.
  • the loading wedge has a single load-bearing rod which is rigidly mounted on one side of the loading wedge, the rod and the wedge in fact being made in a single piece of metal.
  • the locking wedge and corresponding rod is made in one piece.
  • the wedges are further distinguished by the fact that their width, height and thickness narrow away in a direction normal to the attachment points of the rods in the wedges. This is advantageous because the device can then be used in slots of very different widths. Only the outer narrow section of the wedges is inserted in slots being correspondingly narrow.
  • the invention is not limited to the specific embodiments disclosed above. Several variations are possible within the scope of the claims.
  • the coil-spring 5 which exerts pressure may for example be substituted with a coil-spring which resists expansion and is fixedly mounted on the rod 4 closer to the loading wedge.
  • the rod 6 and the finger grip is then mounted at the lower end of the coil-spring, and the rod 6 may run inside the coil-spring so that the spring acts as a guide member for the rods.
  • a further variation comprises joining the guide member 7 with the stop-lug 9 to one single unit.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Clamps And Clips (AREA)

Claims (6)

1. Dispositif d'ancrage pour l'escalade pour un ancrage démontable en fissures aux murs essentiellement parallèles, ledit dispositif comprenant un coin de charge (1) et un élément porteur (4) attaché au bout étroit du dit coin, l'autre bout de cet élément porteur étant pourvu d'un oe illet de fixation (3) pour y attacher une charge extérieure, un coin de blocage (2) et un second élément (6) attaché au bout large de ce coin, les coins étant disposés côte à côte de manière glissante sous peu de frottement l'un contre l'autre et ayant leurs bouts étroits orientés en directions opposées l'un à l'autre, le dispositif étant caractérise en ce que lesdits éléments (4, 6) sont des bâtons ou des câbles rigides, et en ce que lesdits éléments sont pourvus d'un ou plusieurs moyens de guidage (7) qui tiennent y attachés lesdits éléments et les coins, joints en une seule unité de sorte que lesdits éléments et les coins peuvent être déplacés au sens longitudinal l'un relatif à l'autre, les éléments ayant un moyen de ressort (5) correspondant poussant les bouts étroits des coins en directions opposées de sorte que l'épaisseur effective des coins liés est évasée et tenue en place contre les murs de la fissure, et une poignée est attachée à l'un des deux éléments pour exercer une force sur le moyen de ressort afin d'obtenir une réduction de l'épaisseur totale des coins quand le dispositif est placé dans la fissure.
2. Dispositif d'ancrage selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que le coin de blocage glisse dans une rainure de coin de charge et en ce que le coin de charge est pourvu de deux bâtons porteur ou câbles rigides placés de chaque côté de la rainure.
3. Dispositif d'ancrage selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que la surface de contact commune des coins a la forme d'une section d'une surface cylindrique circulaire.
4. Dispositif d'ancrage selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que la surface de contact commune des coins comprend deux plaines formant un petit angle entre eux.
5. Dispositif d'ancrage selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que les côtés des coins orientés vers les murs de la fissure sont convexes.
6. Dispositif d'ancrage selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que ledit dispositif est pourvu de moyens (9) qui empêchent le coin de blocage de glisser du coin de charge de sorte que les coins finiraient de coopérer l'un avec l'autre.
EP19810850145 1980-09-03 1981-09-02 Dispositif d'ancrage pour l'escalade Expired EP0047232B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT81850145T ATE20642T1 (de) 1980-09-03 1981-09-02 Klemmvorrichtung zum klettern.

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
SE8006154 1980-09-03
SE8006154 1980-09-03
SE8101653 1981-03-16
SE8101653 1981-03-16

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0047232A2 EP0047232A2 (fr) 1982-03-10
EP0047232A3 EP0047232A3 (en) 1982-03-24
EP0047232B1 true EP0047232B1 (fr) 1986-07-09

Family

ID=26657660

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19810850145 Expired EP0047232B1 (fr) 1980-09-03 1981-09-02 Dispositif d'ancrage pour l'escalade

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0047232B1 (fr)
DE (1) DE3174914D1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4572464A (en) * 1983-10-17 1986-02-25 Phillips Douglas D Change-configuration climbing chock
US4643378A (en) * 1985-03-18 1987-02-17 Karl Guthrie Roller-chock climbing aid
DE3517741C2 (de) * 1985-05-17 1987-03-05 Stefan 4370 Marl Engers Kletterhilfe, insbesondere für Bergsteiger
US4715568A (en) * 1985-09-20 1987-12-29 David A. Hornbeck Expansible piton
US4643377A (en) * 1985-09-26 1987-02-17 Tony Christianson Mechanically expanding climbing aid
US4712754A (en) * 1986-07-07 1987-12-15 Brodie Malcolm J Rock climbing anchor
US4834327A (en) * 1987-12-24 1989-05-30 Byrne Steve J Self-adjusting climbing chock
FR2756745B1 (fr) * 1996-12-09 1999-03-05 Benhamou Clement Coinceur, notamment pour alpiniste
FR2864791B1 (fr) * 2004-01-06 2006-04-07 Zedel Coinceur mecanique a cames pour l'escalade et l'alpinisme

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3877679A (en) * 1973-08-16 1975-04-15 Lowe Alpine Systems Inc Anchor device for mountain climbers
US3903785A (en) * 1974-06-24 1975-09-09 Jr William Pepper Rock climbing anchor
FR2396562A1 (fr) * 1977-07-05 1979-02-02 Bellefon Patrice De Assemblage de coins d'alpinisme
FR2440206A1 (fr) * 1978-10-30 1980-05-30 Bibollet Jean Claude Dispositif d'ancrage en rocher

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0047232A2 (fr) 1982-03-10
EP0047232A3 (en) 1982-03-24
DE3174914D1 (en) 1986-08-14

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