EP0016055A1

EP0016055A1 - A method for producing a model for cutting out articles of clothing

Info

Publication number: EP0016055A1
Application number: EP79900695A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Mariusz Kucinski; Wlodek Holender; Jozef Holender
Original assignee: Tonnesson Alf Lennart
Current assignee: Tonnesson Alf Lennart
Priority date: 1978-06-19
Filing date: 1980-01-29
Publication date: 1980-10-01
Also published as: SE7806983L; WO1980000053A1; NO792003L; FI791923A; BE877038A; SE411997B; JPS55500655A; NL7904753A; AU4818379A; DK249979A

Abstract

Methode de production d'un patron pour couper des articles vestimentaires, ledit patron comprenant une feuille (22) representant le modele de coupe (15) en dimensions reduites. Au moyen de pieces modeles a echelle reelle graduee (10-14) des points (17''-21) sont marques sur la feuille (22) pour determiner les coordonnees polaires (17-20) a partir d'un point de reference (16) et des mesures (C) sont calculees pour etre marquees le long des differentes coordonnees (17-20) a partir des points respectifs pour reproduire les pieces modeles (17-14) en grandeur reelle pour differentes tailles de l'article vestimentaire.Method for producing a pattern for cutting clothing articles, said pattern comprising a sheet (22) representing the cutting model (15) in reduced dimensions. By means of real scale scale model pieces (10-14) points (17 '' - 21) are marked on the sheet (22) to determine the polar coordinates (17-20) from a reference point ( 16) and measures (C) are calculated to be marked along the different coordinates (17-20) from the respective points to reproduce the model pieces (17-14) in real size for different sizes of the article of clothing.

Description

A METHOD FOR PRODUCING A MODEL FOR CUTTING OUT ARTICLES OF CLOTHING

The invention relates to a method for producing a model for cutting out articles of clothing.

When patterns for cutting out articles of cloth¬ ing are prepared it is common practice first to draw up the several pattern pieces in natural size for a specific size of the article of clothing usually the smallest size, the pattern then being graded, which means that corresponding pattern pieces for other possible sizes are drawn up by using the pattern for the chosen size as a base. The several pattern pieces can be cut from thin paper, one set for each size, or the pattern pieces are drawn up on one and the same paper sheet in natural size the lines of pattern pieces relating to different sizes of the article of clothing being separated from each other by different types of lines being used. It has also been proposed to make the patterns for cutting out articles of clothing in a small for¬ mat such that they can be entered on a sheet e.g. of the format A4 and accordingly can be stored easily in a loose-leaf binder which does not require big space. The sheet with the pattern shown in reduced size then is used as a model for cutting out the article of clothing either by drawing up the pattern in natural size on thin paper by guidance of the model and using the pattern pieces thus obtained when cutting the cloth, or by drawing up the several parts of the article of clothing directly on the cloth. The pattern is drawn up in natural size on paper or cloth by means of different facilities with the help of which the model is converted to pattern pieces having the form and size required for an article of clothing of a certain size. To have a model with a pattern of reduced size thus is advantageous not only in view of the more convenient and easy storage but also in view of the possibility to produce from a single model articles of clothing of different sizes.

However, the facilities of different types which are used according to prior art systems do not provide the correct gradation of the pattern when the model is used as a base for drawing up the actual pattern, or these facilities are complicated and troublesome, the prior art systems as a consequence thereof being expensive and difficult to use in practice.

A prior art system which is said to eliminate these drawbacks is disclosed in the Austrian patent specification 178,739. This system is based on the fact that a measuring tape of special type is used, the usual gradation in centimeters being supplemented by special auxiliary scales for bust and waist measures. The bust and waist are measured for drawing up the pattern and by means of the model and the special measuring tape the several pattern pieces are then drawn up in the size they must have for an article of clothing which fits the person having the ^' bust and wafst as measured; Polar coordinates are used for drawing up the pattern pieces; from a reference point on the model measures are marked along different polar coordinates passing through a number of points o the contour of the related pattern piece on the model, and from these points predetermined measures indicated on the model are marked on the respective polar co¬ ordinates. Corresponding points are marked on a sheet of paper or on the cloth for the article of clothing. A pattern piece of the size corresponding to the actua size of the article of clothing is obtained by connect ing the points by lines drawn by means of a templet. However, this prior art system which is believed to represent the most advanced development of the principle of using a model of reduced size, has been found imperfect because the gradation of the pattern by means of the bust and waist measures will not be correct over the entire range of sizes. If small sizes are correct this is not true for bigger sizes, and vice versa; the condition can vary from one model to the other. Moreover, the system is based on the use of a measuring tape developed especially for the system as mentioned above, and a further drawback is to be seen herein because it is no doubt easy to make a mistake when using a measuring tape having another gradation and other scales than the usual centimeter scale to which persons are most accustomed. The invention relates to a method for producing a model for cutting out articles of clothing comprising a sheet showing the cutting-out pattern in reduced size, and the object of the iπven- tion is to provide such a model by which the pattern pieces for different sizes can be drawn up not only in a _ e ry simple manner by using polar coordinates but also extremely exactly in respect of gradation of the pattern for different sizes of the article of clothing to be sewn by using the pattern drawn up.

According to the invention, there is provided a method of the kind referred to having the character¬ istics appearing from claim 1.

Thereby it is achieved that the only facility used when drawing up the pattern is a conventional measuring tape and that there is always obtained exact form and size of the pattern for the size to be sewn because the gradation has been performed in advance at the production of the model and is not done in connec- tion with the pattern being drawn up. Therefore, the gradation can be made by using, modern facilities which are available nowadays such as computerized gradation.

In order to illustrate the invention preferred embodiments thereof will be described in more detail below reference being made to the accompanying draw¬ ings in which

FIG. 1 is a plan view of a graded pattern and illustrates the production of the model by apply- ing the method according to the invention,

FIG. 2 is a plan view of the model and illustrate the use of this model when drawing up the pattern piece, and

FIGS. 3 to 6 are plan views of different types of models produced by applying the method according to the invention.

In FIG. 1 there is illustrated how the method according to the invention is applied for producing a model which then shall be used for producing pattern pieces for an article of clothing of different sizes. First a pattern piece 10 is made in natural size for the smallest existing size of the article to be sewn, and then the gradation is performed by applying known technique such that pattern pieces 11, 12, 13, and 14 of natural size for other actual sizes are obtained. It is of course possible to have more or less sizes than five as has been presupposed in FIG. 1.

A picture 15 of the pattern of reduced size is then drawn up the picture being made no bigger than it can easily be entered on a small sheet e.g. of the size. A4. A reference point 16 is marked. Where this reference point shall be located must be found empiri¬ cally. It can be located within the picture 15, but it is also possible and in some cases advantageous to locate this point outside said picture. From the reference point 16 polar coordinates 17, 18, 19, 20, and 21 are now drawn to points 17', 18', 19*, 20*, and 21' corresponding to each other but relating to different pattern pieces of the graded pattern. The distance from the reference point 16 to e.g. the point 17' along the coordinate 17, indicated by A in FIG. 1, is measured and from the measure thus obtained an arbitrarily chosen measure B is subtracted such that the rest will be the measure C. On the coordinate 17 a marking 17" is made- at the distance B from the reference point 16, and although the measure B in FIG. 1 has been chosen such that the point 17* ' is located on the contour of the picture 15 of the pattern, drawn in reduced size, it is also possible to choose the measure B such that the point 17' * will be located inside the picture 15 or will be located outside the picture 15. However, it should be noted when choosing the measure B that a large measure B may necessitate that the model is drawn up on a comparatively large sheet - it may not be possible to enter the model on an A4 - and that a small measure B can cause some inaccuracy when drawing up the pattern because it may be difficult to reproduce exactly the direction of the polar coordinate 17. Thus, it is necessary to optimize the measure B considering these two aspects.

From each of the points 18', 19', 20' and 21 ' the measure C obtained in connection' with the point 17' is marked along the respective coordinates 18, 19, 20, and 21, the points 18", 19", 20", and 21" being marked on these coordinates.

It is now proceeded in this manner with regard to other points on the contour of the pattern piece and of course primarily with regard to the corner points but also with regard to an arbitrary number of points along the sides of the pattern piece. Curved edges

O P.

:λh iPO ** require, of course, a greater number of points than straight edges for correct reproduction when the pattern piece is drawn up by using the model. The more points chosen, the more exactly can the pattern be reproduced when drawn up later. It is not necessary at all to choose the measure B equal for all sets of points; this measure can be chosen arbitrarily from one set to the other.

The picture 15 with the reference point 16 is drawn up on a sheet 22, FIG. 2, and also the points

17", 18", 19", 20", and 21 " obtained as described with reference to FIG. 1 are marked on this sheet. These points can be interconnected by a line 23 for marking the relationship therebetween. The points can be marked in such a way that they can be distinguished from each other, e.g. by marking the points with different colours or different symbols. In the same manner all the other sets of points produced in the manner described with reference to FIG. 1 are drawn up said sets of points defining together the pattern pieces 10 to 14, i.e. one and the same piece of a specific article of clothing but in different sizes of the article. In connection with each set o points the quantity of the measure C is indicated. When the pattern model prepared by the method according to the invention- is to be used the procedure is as follows:

The pattern sheet 22 is located on a sheet of thi paper 24, FIG. 2, or directly on the cloth piece from which the article of clothing is to be made.

If it is assumed that it is intended to cut out cloth for an article of clothing of the biggest size represented i.a. by the point 21" in the set of point shown in FIG. 2, the polar coordinate is drawn from th reference point 16 through the point 21 " and the measure C is indicated along the coordinate from the point 21" by means of a conventional measuring tape. Then, a point 121 is obtained and this point is marked on the paper sheet or the piece of cloth 24. The pro- cedure is repeated for all other points for the actual size available on the pattern sheet 22 but not shown in FIG. 2, and when all points have been processed and have been marked on the paper sheet or the piece of cloth 24 the points can be interconnected by means of a templet or the like or by hand without guiding instruments and there is then obtained a reproduction; of the pattern piece 15 in the size it must have for the actual size of the article of clothing. If the pattern piece has been drawn up on a paper sheet 24 said pattern piece is cut out and used as a conventional pattern piece by being pinned to the cloth, cutting-out being performed along the contour thereof. If the pattern piece has been drawn up directly on the cloth cutting-out is of course performed along the pattern piece thus drawn up.

It is of course possible to adjust the pattern for a specific size of the article of clothing by increasing or decreasing one measure or the other which is indicated from the points on the pattern sheet. Seam allowance and darts are arranged in the same manner as when any prior art pattern is being used. Darts and register prints can be marked on the pattern model. Points can of course be indicated on the model by applying the method described, for drawing up such darts and register prints on the pattern piece. In the example according to FIGS. 1 and 2 there has been shown one pattern piece only on the sheet 22 but the reproduction of the pattern piece on the sheet can be made so small- that several pattern pieces can be entered on one and the same sheet. FIG. 3 shows a complete model for a pattern piece having such a great number of points for different sizes indicated thereon as are necessary for exactly reproducing the small reproduction of the pattern piece in the size that the pattern piece must have for the chosen size of the article of cloth- ing. The reproduction is shown in FIG. 3 in the size which it has on the pattern sheet. The points have not been marked in FIG. 3 in different manners for the different sizes but it is the intention that the points shall have different colours. Thus, for a specific size all red points or green. points or any colour that the different points may have is chosen. For each set of points a measure C is indicated, which has to be marked from the related point along the polar coordinate through this point and the reference point 16.

As mentioned above, certain considerations apply concerning the choice of the measure B used when pro- ducing the pattern model. FIG. 3 illustrates the appearance that the model should have i.e. the points should be well distributed so that they can be easily distinguished, and they should be located so far from the reference point 16 that it is possible to draw the polar coordinates with reasonable accuracy. On the oth hand, it must be taken into account that the model can be entered on a sheet, e.g. A4, which can be easily handled, and thus these two considerations have to be weighed against each other in order to optimize the result.

The reference point 16 should be located in such a manner that the points through which the polar co¬ ordinates are to be drawn will not be clustered to¬ gether. As a rule, the reference point can be located within the picture 15 but it is also possible to locat this point outside the picture as shown in FIG. 4.

Sometimes a pattern piece can have exactly. the same size and form for all sizes of the article to be sewn, and this is true e.g. for a pocket on the article of clothing. In that case it is not necessary to have different points for different sizes of the article of clothing; one and the same point is used for the respective polar coordinates no matter the size^'of the article of clothing. This is. illustrated in FIG. 5.

It is not necessary that the same measure C is used for the points corresponding to each other in the manner described with reference to FIG. 1. In order to obtain a more compact model another measure B can be used for the point 18' in order to obtain thereby an¬ other measure C, and these distances will correspond to e.g. the distance 16 - 18" and the distance 18' - 18", respectively, if the coordinate 18 is chosen as an example. Other measures B and C can be used for the coordinates 19, 20, and 21 when the model is. being constructed. Then, it is not sufficient, however, to set out only a single measure for one and the same set of points as in FIG. 3; for each point the distance C that has to be measured from the point along the polar coordinate passing through the point must be indicated. This is illustrated in FIG. 6. In order that the pattern model can be used in a simple and easy way it is pre¬ ferred, however, that one and the same measure is used for all sizes as far as the points of one and the same set of related points is concerned; then there is less risk of drawing up the pattern piece incorrectly.

In FIG. 1 it is presupposed that the pattern pieces for different sizes of the article of clothing are sta.cked with the right hand edges coinciding. Such arrangement can be applied in some cases. In other cases pattern pieces can be arranged in such a manner when the pattern model is being produced that the contour of the pattern piece for the size following the smallest size extends along and spaced outwardly of the contour of the pattern piece of the smallest size, the contour of the pattern piece for next size of the article of clothing extending along and spaced outwardly of the pattern piece for the second smallest size of the article and so on up to the pattern piece for the biggest size. When producing the pattern model it is also possible, however, to arrange the pattern pieces relating to different sizes of the article of clothing relatively displaced or turned. Points for drawing up the several pattern pieces can be marked and the pattern pieces can be -reproduced in the manner described, from the pattern model thus produced.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Method for producing a model for cutting out articles of clothing, comprising, a sheet (22) showing the cutting-out pattern (15) in reduced size, c h a r a c t e r i z e d in a/ that a full-scale cutting-out pattern (10 - 14) is prepared and graded for different sizes of the article of clothing, b/ that a reference point (16) is chosen, c/ that the length of polar coordinates (17) from the ■reference point (16) to points (17') arbitrarily chosen on the contour of the cutting-out pattern (10) for the smallest size, is measured, d/ that an arbitrarily determined quantity (B) is subtracted from the length (A) on the polar co¬ ordinate (17) for each contour point chosen, e/ that a point (17") is marked on the polar co¬ ordinate (17) at a distance from each contour point (17') chosen, which equals the quantity (C) obtained by the subtraction,

^'I that the point (17") thus obtained is marked on the sheet showing the cutting-out pattern (15) in reduced size with the reference point (16) marked thereon said quantity (G) obtained by the subtraction being indicated, and g/ that corresponding points are marked on the sheet (22) in a corresponding manner for other sizes of the article of clothing.

2. Method according to claim 1, c h a r a c - t e r i z e d in that the quantity (C) obtained by the subtraction for a specific contour point (17*) on the cutting-out pattern for the smallest size is marked on the polar coordinates (18 - 21) passing through corresponding contour points (18' - 21 ') on the cutting-out patterns (11 - 14) for bigger sizes for marking the points (18" - 21") corresponding to these sizes, on the sheet (22) said quantity (C) being indicated collectively for the points (17" - 21") on the sheet (22), corresponding to different sizes of the article of clothing.

3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, c h a r a c t e r i z e d in that points marked on the sheet (22) for one and the same size of the article of clothing are indicated by a common symbol which distinguishes from the symbols for points relating to other sizes of the article of clothing.

4. Method according to any of claims 1 to 3, c h a r a c t e r i z e d in that points (17" - 21"). on the sheet (22), corresponding to each other, are interconnected by a line (23).