DE380426C - Process for the production of turn-down collars or cuffs - Google Patents

Description

Process for the production of turn-down collars or cuffs. For this application, the union contract, according FROM June 2 191 1 priority because of the registration in the United States of America of 2o. October igc5 claimed. The invention relates to a method for the production of turn-down collars or cuffs, which consist of an inner neck strip part and an outer fold-over part of a multiple fabric produced in one piece. It insists that the outer wrap-around part is weaving under greater tension C, e than the inner neck-strip part.

, 1 As a result of the tighter weave of the outer part, the collar or the sleeve assume a curved shape without forming folds will. Since the fabric is woven in such a way that it has sufficient resistance, it maintains its upright and curved shape without the need for strength or use another stiffening agent, while at the same time providing the adequate one Possesses flexibility. uni the movements of the body without undue resistance adapt. So the fabric does not have the unyielding rigidity of the usual starched collar or cuffs.

The weaker 1 # old part can be produced by cfaß individual Warp threads are omitted and also by the fact that some of the weft threads are transverse are guided over this folding part, but without finite the one located at this point Warp threads are woven together. If the two parts of the fabric are multiple Tissues exist. the weakening of the folded part can only take place on the inside, while the outside is made of interwoven warps and wefts. In this way the crease can be created without undue stress on the fabric on the Fold line, although the desired effectiveness of the outer lines in case of eventual is preserved.

In the drawing, Fig. I is an end view of the chest tree of the loom, which is shown in the general relationships to the fabric to be woven. Fig. A is a top plan view of Fig. I with individual parts broken away are.

Fig. 3 is a schematic sectional view along one plane Line 3-3 of Fig. 4 .. Fig. 4 is a plan view of part of the fabric, wherein the top layer of fabric is partially omitted to provide the internal structure to show.

Fig.5 is a diagrammatic representation in section and in part broken off, wherein the relative arrangement of the threads of the fabric is shown schematically are.

Figure 6 is a pictorial representation of a liner collar that is made from the fabric woven in accordance with the invention.

Fig. 71 shows part of the fabric. in dashed lines is that? pattern, after which the collar is cut out, indicated.

Fig. 8 shows the outline of the collar cut out of the fabric.

Fig. G shows a view similar to Fig. 8 in a top view Buttonhole and ready to be folded over.

In the manufacture of the woven fabric, as shown in Fig.; can be seen, a strip or a group of strips is made, which consist of two parts a, b, which are connected by the folding part c. As can be seen from Fig. 2, a large number of these strips are woven in one piece on the loom. The individual strips are then broken down into the individual strips according to Fig. 7, from which the collar is punched out using a suitable die in the outline shape shown in broken lines in Fig. 7. The collar punched out in this way is shown in Figure 8. The collar is then edged finitely (lem band d and provided with buttonholes e, whereupon it is bent into the shape shown in Fig. 6.

From Fig.6 it can be seen that the inner part a 'of the collar and the outer part b' huide show a smooth surface without wrinkles. In order to achieve this result, the individual strips of the fabric are woven in such a way that, after weaving, greater tension is exerted on the part from which part b 'is cut out than on the part from which part a' is cut out . This is done according to Fig. 2 in that the chest tree f of the loom is designed as a roller with raised parts narrow, which correspond to part b of the collar. The depressions lz, which correspond to the parts a of the collar, are located between these raised parts. Individual longitudinal or warp threads are omitted between parts a and b of each strip in order to reduce the rigidity of the fabric on these parts. In practice, in cases where a triple weave is used, as shown schematically in Fig. 3, 15 threads of the 30 threads in the intermediate layer should be left out, in which case it is assumed that 300 warp threads come to customs. In Fig. 3 the scale of the fabric is of course very exaggerated, and the threads are shown at a correspondingly larger distance from one another in order to better explain the embodiment.

In Fig. 3 it can also be seen that the spaced Warp threads in the intermediate or pleated part work well with the corresponding weft threads well are interwoven. This increases the rigidity of the fabric at the fold further reduced so that folding can be done without the fabric on the fold line overuse. This fold line corresponds to the top edge of the finished one Collar. The interweaving of the warp and weft threads of the inner and outer layers of the fabric is preferably carried out across the folding part, so that as a result weaker intermediate strips at the fold is well protected on both sides. It is of course clear that the folding part in the intermediate layer for better understanding is shown excessively large. In reality it is just of sufficient breadth to produce the desired fold of the collar, as shown in Figs. 6 to 9 can be seen. It is recommended to use a larger width of this folding strip avoid, as is necessary, to turn the two parts of the collar into the one shown in Fig. 6 Shape to bend, otherwise it could happen that the folding part is especially when it gets wet while perspiring, could sink.

As shown in Fig 7, the folded part of the woven strip is bent slightly. When weaving the fabric, using 300 spun warp threads to the inch and Zoo weft threads to the inch, by leaving out 15 warp threads at the fold, a group of strips is formed where the collars have a smooth curved outside and inside when folded . Crimping the fabric after weaving makes the surface even smoother and the bend much more even.

It is clear that the weak fold is also on one of the outer Layers can be provided instead of in the intermediate layer or in the intermediate layer and in one of the outer layers. This weakening of the additional layers can occur in such Cases of particular value where the yarn used is of such type and diameter is that it makes a further weakening necessary to do the folding, or in cases where more than three layers are used.

According to the invention, any yarn or thread can be used for the various Layers of the fabric can be used and is arbitrary, e.g. for the outer part of the collar, to use a purer and more expensive yarn than for the inner or liner. The invention is described above only in its application for the production of collars; but it can also be used to manufacture cuffs.

Claims (3)

PATENT CLAIMS: r. Process for the production of turn-down collars or cuffs, which consist of an inner neck strip part and an outer turn-around part of a multiple fabric made in one piece, characterized in that the outer turn-down part is woven under greater tension than the inner neck strip part. 2. Device for exercising the \ 'experience according to claim i, characterized in that that the different tension is achieved by a tensioning pulley, its sublime Share the outer wraparound part and the deeper parts of the inner neck strap part of the collar. 3. Turn-down collar or cuff according to claim r, characterized characterized in that between the neck strip and folding part a fold part of larger Flexibility is turned on. q .. turn-down collar or cuff according to claim 3, characterized in that the folding part by omitting some warp threads in the Fabric is formed.