DE2127049A1 - Patterned textile fabric, in particular knitted fabric, with a relief pattern and method for its production - Google Patents

Description

Vyzkumny ustav pletarsky,
'drno, üujanovo namesti 3

Patterned textile fabric, in particular knitted fabric, with a relief pattern and process its manufacture

The invention relates to a patterned textile fabric, in particular a knitted fabric with a pronounced relief pattern that is at least two-colored.

In the textile industry are relief patterned and various colored, produced by hashing textile fabrics known, which so far largely in ivulier- or chain bonds z. B. have been made in such a way that the

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Formation is achieved by the dowel loops forming the relief pattern of different lengths in comparison to the length of the dowel loops forming the bottles of the bottom of the flat structure produced on an otrickmasehine.

Relief patterns are used in known stitching metals also through combinations of legal / legal and · Right / left rows formed. The difference in the height of the relief pattern and the bottom is from that Maintaining the difference between the length of the right / left and right s / right hashes Pen loops dependent.

One of the disadvantages of the relief patterns formed in this way consists in the fact that connecting loops are made in the formation of the individual relief crochet sticks the pattern stand out easily and often causing damage of the item during the manipulation and the Equipment. Another disadvantage of this The process for the production of relief patterns consists in the lengthy preparation of classic or synthetic Yarns that are mostly textured and dyed in advance to achieve colored patterns must be, since these products are not made from raw material and are subsequently piece-dyed can be. Finally, to emphasize the relief pattern, the formation of right / right hashes is required extremely high quality and therefore also expensive

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spun game or textured silk. Also the machine performance is relatively low, since in the formation of relief patterns of the known type usually one Eeohts / Rechts — Iteilie and two right / left rows formed will. The output of a machine with, for example, 36 systems is therefore 12 1 · pure meshes per machine revolution .

The colors of the knitting machines in a familiar way produced relief-patterned flat structure is determined by the color of the corresponding binding material, whereby the requirement is continuously made that the shrinkage capacity of the threads forming the relief pattern is the same or approximately the same as the threads forming the base of the knitted fabric

Methods of sampling are known in which two or several types of yarn with different dye affinity are processed.

The dyeing of relief patterned, produced on a knitting machine fabrics is performed dyeing processes-which were previously in separate ■ ₀

The purpose of this invention is to simplify of the process of making relief patterned he, in particular two-tone made on knitting machines Surface structure with simultaneous jirreaction of a

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more pronounced relief effect, a simplification of the dyeing process and an increase in productivity »

This creates a new and enhanced effect in the Production of patterned textile fabrics, in particular knitted goods.

The essence of the invention consists in the fact that the relief patterned textile fabric consists of at least two types of threads which simultaneously have different "shrinkage" and a different affinity for dyes, the less shrinkable threads being able to form the relief pattern and the threads with higher shrinkage being able to form the basis of the textile sheet form * is the difference in the shrinkability of both yarn types used a minimum of 15 tf ° · advantageously be used as a component with higher Schruoipfvermögen AUB Sndlos- or staple fibers of polyethylene terephthalate-KO'-lBophtalat existing threads, AIb component capable IAIT low Sehrumpf endless advantageously , Mechanically textured, synthetic threads used * The threads used with lower shrinkage capacity can be dyed with different groups of dyes than threads with higher shrinkage capacity until the shrinkage temperature of the threads with higher shrinkage capacity is reached. . .

The process of making a relief patterned textile fabric consists according to the invention in

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that this consists of at least two kinds of threads with under, * - different shrinkage capacity and different Patterned textile produced with an affinity for dye Flat structures following or at the same time on the one hand the action of heat and on the other hand the dyeing in a dye bath that has a markedly different affinity for the one type of thread from which the fabric is made, is subjected, with the G-round of the patterned textile fabric forming and having a higher shrinkage capacity Threads shrink and the relief effect of the by having a lower shrinkage capacity Threads formed pattern increased and e.g an at least two-tone effect is achieved. Shrinkage of the textile surface structure in the dye bath, that has a distinctive dye affinity to the less shrinkable, has threads forming the relief pattern.

The essence of the invention, further advantages and features of the invention are shown below with reference to in the drawing schematically illustrated embodiments explained in more detail. Show it: .

1 shows a sample produced according to the invention; Fig. 2 shows another made according to the invention Template.

The relief pattern made on a Stricionasohine Flat structure is according to the invention, for. B.

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on a jacquard circular knitting machine, with threads to form the right / right rows higher shrinkage capacity and the formation of pike / Left rows that form the relief pattern with threads lower shrinkage capacity can be used. The difference in the shrinkage capacity of the two types of thread "is at least £ 15. The knitted fabric is made from raw? material produced, the used as the basic thread, d. H. having a higher shrinkage capacity threads, filaments or spun synthetic yarns that are used as a shrinkage component of copolyester fibers, which made of polyethylene terephthalate-ko-isophthalate or shrinkable fibers made of polyacrylonitrile j Contains polyvinyl chloride, polypropylene, etc.

The shrinking and simultaneous dyeing of the jtfasehenware on two shades is exposed to heat in wet State in the dyebath that has a marked affinity only to one type of thread that makes up the fabric P consists, has, performed. Such is on the one hand the shrinkage of those who have a higher shrinkage capacity and the bottom of the knitted fabric forming threads and thereby also an increase in the effect of the through the threads that are less able to shrink formed relief pattern, on the other hand the dyeing of that thread type, which in the mentioned dye bath in the area of active temperature is colorable, reached. This type of thread can be used with advantage of the pattern-forming thread, d. H. the thread with less shrinkage capacity, however, it can also be the other way round.

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By shrinking of the reason the text lien fabric, especially the knitwear - is the relief effect of the pattern assets or the binding material with lower shrinkage is made of geschruiapften material, as opposed to the previously known technologies by 20 - increased 30 ⁰ Yes, with At the same time, at least two-tone coloring of the goods is achieved using a shrink and simultaneous dye bath with increased affinity for one type of binding material.

But is the affinity of the dye and shrink bath especially to the pattern-forming thread, i. e. to the threads with less shrinkage, higher, becomes this pattern not only has a raised, but also different color relief effect with reference to the shrunk ground yarn.

However, it is used on the aforementioned 36-system circular knitting machine the proposed method can be applied using various shrinkable materials The relief has to be achieved by combining a right / right s row and a right / left B row, with the output of the machine at 18 metrics / revolution is increased, d. H. by half more than with the usual formation of a right / right row and two right / left pattern rows

In addition, a height repeat that is up to half larger can also be used for relief patterns formed in this way.

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be applied · Aue to the reasons given is the Effect of this new process for the production of relief-based histerters, at least two-tone textile! "surface structure Not only in terms of quality, but also cheaper than the different ones in terms of performance other previously known and used combinations of materials or technological processes. With Using the much simplified technological according to the invention Method can therefore in a single operation a relief pattern and after shrinkage on the right side a textile surface structure possibly simultaneous different coloring of the corresponding pattern-forming binding material by far "can be better achieved.

Due to the shrinking of the bottom of the "Kulierware" Threads with a higher shrinkage capacity is accordingly their ductility is reduced, this reduction being proportional to the difference between the hull capacity of the corresponding binding materials is. On the basis of the test results it was found that it is possible to produce a knitted fabric in this way to achieve similar extensibility in a chain bond. The higher practical value of the product is due to that the folds of the knitted fabric are not impaired, which is the case for certain types of textiles, in particular rextiles for outer clothing, from Meaning is. This further beneficial effect is due to the considerable weight proportion of the shrink-resistant Binding material in the i'-iasclienwaren, its hull strength the Kelief pattern on the right side of the goods highlights, achieved.

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Instead of two different kinds of ides Shrinkability "can of course be a combination of shrink-resistant and shrinkable threads can be used so that the knitwear with a right / right weave pattern is made in the same way can be and that even more than two types of differently shrinkable, possibly also different dyed threads can be used

Example 1)

To produce a knitted fabric with a colored relief pattern, the ODZI jacquard machine with pattern wheels, 0 36.7 "j pitch 18", 36-system, was used; The material used for the right / right rows was a Nm 48 yarn containing 40 fo VSLAHA, ie copolyester fibers made of polyethylene ent erepht alat-Ko-Isophthalate, and 60 fo copolyester fibers Tesil 31, and textured for the right / left row Polyamide silk Td 120 used

Equipment;

Shrinkage: steaming for 30 to 60 seconds or shrinking for 10 minutes. Shrinking can also be carried out in the dye bath during the dyeing process.

Wash: 30 minutes in the bath with 0.2 g / l Slovaton, trade name for non-ionic ethylene oxide condensate, soda 3 g / l at a temperature of 60 ° 0 or hot wash.

sheaves: Slovaton 0.1 g / l

Meckal BX, 2 ~ j £, (sodium salt of dibutylnaphth alens sulphonic acid)

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Formic acid pH 4 - 5 Χ ·? Έ dye

Starting temperature 40 ° C, gradually increasing the temperature up to the cooking temperature, gradually cool down again after t - 1.5 hours Rinse in warm and cold water «

Softening: Syntamln EX 1 g / l (a cationic softening and softening agent), 20 minutes at 30 - 40 ° G

Spin: light spin °

Drying: drying up to 100 ° G, possibly thermo. fix at 190 ° - for 30 to 60 seconds *

Example 2)

To produce a colored lieliefmuster Masehenware with the knitting machine KETO, 0 32 "," 20 ^M division was 44-3ystemig used as the material-right rows was used for the right / In a yarn 48, 40 ^c ß> VELAMA S, ie copolyester fibers made of poly äthyl ent e repht al at-Ko-Isophthalat, and 60 ^ ¥ ELASA B, ie shrinking real copolyester fibers, and for the right s / left series textured polyamide silk Td 120 is used.

Equipment:

Shrinkage; as in example Mr. 1

fix: 30 - 60 seconds at 190 ° G

Coloring: as in the example Mr. 1

Weiohmaohen: as in the example Mr, 1

Spin: as in the example of Mr. I.

Dry:

up to 100 ° E

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Example 3)

The ODZI jacquard machine with pattern wheels, 0 36.7 ", pitch 18", 36-system, was used to produce a knitted fabric with a colored relief pattern; as a material for the right / Reohts series a remote order 50, the 67 io Tesil and 33 ^υ contains β> cotton and for the rights of left-row / a yarn Wm 50, the $ 40 VELiVMA S (Kopolyesterfasern from polyethylene terephthalate-co -Isophtalat) and 60 '$> copolyester fibers Tesil 31 or (

textured polyamide silk Td 120, highly stretchable, contains, used. ,

Equipment;

Shrinkage; as in the example of Mr. 1 fix; 30-60 seconds at 190 ° G

sheaves; as in the example of Mr. 1

To make something soft; as in the example Kr. 1

Sling; as in the example of Mr. 1

Trooknen; up to 100 ° G

Example 4-)

A Raschel machine with a pitch of 24 saxons was used to produce a knitted fabric with a colored relief pattern. The hash product was formed from 2wei or more i ⁿ aden4ystemen, some of which a yarn Mn 48 χ 2, 40 · - /> "VjSjAHA S '(Kopolyesterfasern based on Polyathylenterephtalat-co-isophthalate) and 60 yö l'esil 31 and the other textured polyamide silk, polyester possibly polypropylene silk Td 150 contain.

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Equipment:

Fixing as in example no. 1 ; 30 - 60 seconds for as in example

To dye;

To make something soft; as in the example of Mr. 1 sole udders: as in the example Wr. 1 dryer

100 ° 0

Example 5)

To produce a knitted fabric with colored relief pattern, the Jacquard machine Odzi with pattern wheels, pitch 18 "was used .; as a material for the right / right rows, a yarn Nm 60, 40 fo VEI ₁ ANA S, a! Copolyester from P ο Iy ät hy lent er epht al at -Ko-Isophtalat, and 60 $ YELANA N, a non-shrinkable copolyester fiber, and uses textured polyester silk Td 150 for the right / left rows.

Equipment;

Shrinkage ; as in example no.1.

Fix; 30 - 60 seconds at 190 °

To dye; as in example no.1

To make something soft; as in example no.1

Sling; as in example no.1

Drying: up to

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Claims (1)

Pat e η t a η a ρ r Ü ο h e; Äüstertea textile fabric, in particular Knitted fabric, with belief pattern, characterized gekanntelohnet that it ouch at least two types of yarns with the same varying Sohrumpf- · vernögen and different dye affinity besttht, the threads with a lower shrinkage capacity örund the Beliefmueter and the threads with a higher shrinkage capacity of the text dan lien FläohengebiIdea form · 2. Patterned textile flat structure according to claim 1, characterized by daE the difference in the shrinkage capacity of the two yarns " arttn is at least 15 ^ ». öeiBuatertes textile fabric according to claims 1 and 2, characterized, that the threads with higher shrinkage capacity Endlosodtr Staple fibers based on polyethylene terephthalate-ko-isophthalate contain. 4. Patterned textile fabric naoh claims 1 and 2 _f · characterized, that the threads with lower shrinkage capacity are synthetic Threads, preferably mechanical, textured filaments are. -H - 209841/0566 - ■ .j 5. Semuatertee textile surface structure according to the requirements * Λ and 2, i characterized, that the types of thread used have less shrinkage capacity Can be dyed with other dye-off groups up to the shrinkage temperature of the threads with a higher sohrump capacity aind than the threads with higher · »shrinkage» 6. Method of making a whitewashed extile Area structure with Beltefmuster according to the requirements 1 to 5, '. . "marked daduroh,. that the at least two Garnar / fcen simultaneously with different shrinkability and untersohiedlicher affinity textile Fläohengebilde prepared naohfοlgend or simultaneously a heat and a dyeing process in the dyebath with significantly different affinities to the one kind of the yarns, Au0 which is made the article is _t subjected wherein the threads with a higher shrinking capacity forming the ground and the patterned textile surface formation shrink, the relief effect of the pattern produced from the threads with a lower soaking capacity is emphasized and an at least two-tone effect is achieved 7t method of manufacture according to claim 6, marked daduroh, that the shrinkage of the textile fabric in the dyebath with a pronounced affinity for the dyes Helief pattern forming threads is carried out. I ⁵ U - 1 / Ö5S8