DE202006010652U1 - Cosmetic skin preparation, free of water, is composed of a lipid phase with a distributed solid phase and an active ingredient system - Google Patents

Abstract

The cosmetic preparation to be applied to the skin, free of water, contains a lipid phase with a distributed solid phase and an active ingredient system. The active ingredient system is a combination of aa water-soluble ingredient in the solid phase and a lipid-soluble ingredient dissolved in the lipid phase.

Description

The The invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic preparation. The Preparation may take the form of a mine for insertion into a pen or as a smooth paste, which is suitable for cosmetic Applications, in particular in the field of decorative cosmetics, for To dye, beautify and maintaining keratinic materials such as e.g. of the skin, of semi-mucous membranes and mucous membranes, lips, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows and their environment, is suitable. Examples include lipstick, lip rouge, Cheek rouge, lipliner, eyeliners, eyebrow pencils, khol, kohl, Makeup, Effect Party Makeup, Hair Dye, Mascara, Hair Mascara, Concealer, concealer or eye shadow.

she Can also be used as a lip balm, lip balm, lip gloss, as a fixing basis for the lips, as a care base for the care of the skin or as a sunscreen be used. The preparation according to the invention preferably contains especially cosmetic preparation a combination of water-soluble, especially slightly water-soluble and lipid-soluble Active ingredients which are in the form of a specially tailored in the effect Complex of active ingredients, a so-called "active ingredient cocktail" may be present water-soluble "are thereby Active ingredients, of which at room temperature - ie at 23 +/- 2 ° C - at least Dissolve 10 g per 100 g of water to let.

Preferably the preparation, in particular cosmetic preparation is anhydrous Form before.

the People naturally inherit the desire, beautiful and attractive look as well as possible on his fellow human beings and vital to act. The beauty ideal is in the course of times a multiple change and the most diverse Fashion trends have been subjected - goal but man was always, at least, an immaculate ideal to get close. Besides clothes and ornaments, therefore, the look played and the condition of the skin and the appendages is an essential one Role. Already in ancient times, as from ancient Egyptian murals and known from grave finds, lay to man - especially the female Share - in it, the outside through to optimize creative color designs. In the past was the color effect - believes the analyzes of old finds - apparently a higher meaning attributed as the compatibility and today's toxicological considerations - probably true to the Motto: "Who be beautiful wants, must suffer. "National and international legal regulations have become more recent time for the consumer as dangerous recognized ingredients of such preparations eliminated.

Preparations of the type mentioned usually contain lipids, such as fats, oils, oil-soluble plant extracts, saturated linear and / or branched alcohols with chain lengths between C ₃ and C ₄₀ , saturated linear and / or branched chain medium to long-chain fatty acids with chain lengths between C ₆ and C ₄₀ or those having at least one double bond, whose esters and waxes, which may be of vegetable or animal origin, derived from mineral sources, such as petroleum, or obtained by synthesis or chemical modification of said substances. Also known is the use of organosilicon compounds, such as dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenyldimethicones, volatile cyclomethicones, silicone waxes, silicone resins, such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, a commonly used film former in so-called "non-transfer" preparations and the like and / or mixtures thereof.

Besides For example, a solid phase or solid phase may be included from finely divided fillers and coloring or mixtures thereof. In the case of sunscreen can particularly finely divided pigments, so-called nanopigments with an average Particle size between 5 and 25 nm, find application which have a transparent effect on the skin and do not color them anymore. Examples include silicon dioxide, titanium dioxide and Zinc oxide.

Known is also preparations, especially cosmetic preparations of the type mentioned, to add active ingredients that have positive topical effects exercise capital or at least one says such an effect. According to the legal Requirements for cosmetics must be the effect of such agents Although scientifically verifiable, they must not predominantly destined to alleviate or cure pathological conditions since they are then subject to the provisions of pharmaceutical legislation would. The relevant engaged professional thus converts to a recognizable very narrow Burr and is required, very intense for his Purpose to research suitable active ingredients and against predominantly to delineate medicinal substances.

In the production and processing of preferably anhydrous and lipid-containing preparations of the type mentioned, it should be taken into account that they have higher temperatures in the region of 70 for a relatively long time up to 110 ° C - on the one hand, when the raw materials are melted and homogenised together with colorants and other additives and, on the other hand, when they are brought to their final form. The raw materials used are not allowed to change chemically, or only to a very limited extent, by the action of heat and atmospheric oxygen. Raw materials of plant or animal origin, especially if they contain double bonds or conjugated double bonds in the carbon chain, tend to rearrange, build up, peroxide formation and the like, which can lead to negative odor changes. Due to the presence of certain pigments, which may be mentioned by way of example, Manganese Violet (CI No. 77,742), such changes can be induced or else accelerated in the sense of a catalyst effect.

In As a rule, therefore, cosmetic preparations are preferably in emulsion form produced, especially if they contain water-soluble ingredients. It is usual it then, the water-soluble Ingredients in the aqueous Phase and the lipid-soluble Dissolve ingredients in the lipid phase and then out of the at Phases to produce a stable emulsion, if necessary, using of emulsifiers, stabilizers, etc. Aqueous systems require in usually a preservation.

It It was an object of the invention to provide a preparation contains the active ingredients or a drug system, wherein the drug system from water-soluble and / or lipid-soluble Active ingredients and wherein the preparation is stable, light is applicable, adheres to the place applied and possibly the active ingredients contained at least partially delayed can release.

A Another task was an anhydrous and lipid-containing preparation to provide that in the form of a pen to be inserted Mine or as a supple paste and for cosmetic applications, especially in the field of decorative cosmetics, for dyeing and beautify keratinic materials such as e.g. of the skin, of semi-mucous membranes and mucous membranes, the lips and the eyelids and their surroundings, is suitable easy to apply, sticks well and lasts a long time, and from the original job site not or only minimally immigrated to the immediate area. The preparation should - if it is in pen form - at different storage temperatures, based on the different transport routes and can result in the user himself, be storage stable and not adversely affect the application properties, furthermore - if they is present as a supple paste - after prolonged storage no syneresis effects show and also in the use characteristics in the sense of viscosity changes do not reshape negatively. Furthermore, this preparation should be soft and smooth, on keratinous materials such as. the skin, the semi-mucous membranes and mucous membranes, the Do not tighten lips and eyelids and do not dry them stick well and persistently, if possible not on objects and textiles or other skin areas transmitted and in immediate eyes close Do not cause irritation or other negative sensations.

A Another object of the invention was the aforementioned preparation simultaneously with a selected one and in the intended effect balanced drug combination in the form of a "drug cocktail" equip and in its effect continues by cleverly selected lipidic herbal Ingredients to supplement. Ultimately, a preparation of the genann th species result, the in addition to decorative properties pronounced nourishing moments in the sense from sustained vitalizing, energizing, and microcirculation and thus has the substance transport of the skin stimulating effect. These Effects should ultimately positively influence the overall appearance of the skin, the fine structure of the skin surface improve, reduce the depth of wrinkles as well as fatigue and the counteract premature skin aging. In modern usage These intended effects are also called "vitalizing", "energizing", "anti-wrinkle" and "anti-age".

These Tasks are solved with an anhydrous preparation, which is defined in claim 1 is.

It has surprisingly been found that a cosmetic preparation which is anhydrous and contains water-soluble materials in the form of a solid phase provides both a microbiologically and mechanically stable product which is easy to apply, adheres to the applied location and, moreover, selectively releases the active ingredients There may be a release, in particular for the water-soluble active substance contained in the solid phase over a longer period of time. This is achieved by the composition according to the invention. It has namely been found that water-soluble substances which are added to a preparation based on lipids can be stably distributed in the preparation. When such a stabilized preparation is then applied to the skin, the water-soluble drug can be delivered to the skin only when it is in dissolved form. However, since the skin surface provides water only in low concentrations, the water-soluble portion is only gradually dissolved and, after it has become has solved the skin provided. This effect can be further influenced by coating the drug particles or microencapsulation. In this way can be achieved with simple means a metered delivery of active ingredients. It was surprising that this is possible.

Therefore, according to the invention a preparation available placed next to the usual Ingredients containing a lipid phase with a solid phase. Furthermore contains the anhydrous invention Preparation of a drug system, wherein active ingredients that are water-soluble and drugs that are lipid soluble are complementary and in combination lead to very beneficial effects. By Selection of the lipid phase, the inventive preparation both in the form a supple paste that is very soft and viscous to high can be viscous, as well as in the form of a mine, in a pen can be used. Depending on the share and the type the structuring ingredients, e.g. Waxes, and depending on Processing the mass obtained, the product is supple until viscous, with the dynamic viscosity set in a wide range can be, e.g. between 0.5 and 100 Pa · s. Likewise, by selection the appropriate structuring ingredients made a mass be after casting or extruding in the form of a Mine is present. The mine is preferably cantilevered, d. H. can e.g. in a rotary or sliding mechanism be used.

ever according to the place of application the active ingredient systems used differ. Suitable are skin smoothing, vitalizing and moisturizing active ingredient systems. Prefers are active ingredient systems in which water-soluble and lipid-soluble active ingredients complement each other.

The Active substance system is preferably in the form of two phases, namely one Active substance lipid phase and a drug solid phase present. In the The active ingredient lipid phase contains lipid-soluble active ingredients that are responsible for the skin convey positive characteristics. Here, e.g. fat-soluble vitamins or their derivatives, such as nicotinic acid derivatives, panthenol derivatives, Tocopherols, combinations thereof, etc. can be used. Preferred lipid-soluble vitamin derivatives are e.g. Panthenyl triacetate, tocopheryl nicotinate or the Collagen synthesis stimulating substances, such as phytosphingosine derivatives. Also herbal extracts that provide a regenerating, soothing, wrinkle-smoothing or achieve beneficial effect on the skin in any other way can, can in be included in the lipid phase.

One particularly advantageous ingredient, for at least a short-term wrinkle smoothing can provide a connection that is through intake of water swells and thereby fills the wrinkles. Particularly suitable for this is the hydrophilic hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof. For the preparation according to the invention are both water-soluble Hyaluronic acid derivatives, as well as lipid-soluble hyaluronic acid derivatives suitable. Both types can in the preparation according to the invention are incorporated and the hyaluronic acid portion swells by Absorption of water that is available on the skin surface. The hyaluronic acid derivative is dispersed in dried form in the lipid phase and evenly distributed and swells only after application to the skin. Suitable hyaluronic acid derivatives are e.g. Salts of hyaluronic acid, such as. the sodium salt. Another equally suitable form of hyaluronic acid is a product called hyaluronic filling spheres available in the stores is and in the form of microspheres provided. The hyaluronic acid microspheres may be e.g. from a gelatinous Layer of a palmitate, silicon compounds or other compounds be surrounded to protect them, until she is in contact with the skin come.

The Purpose to replenish wrinkles by swelling also meet microparticles that be formed from other biopolymers. Thus, e.g. derived from plants Biopolymers such as hydrolyzed wheat protein can be used for this purpose. These also called "vegetal filling spheres "im Commercially available Particles also come as a solid phase for the preparation according to the invention into consideration.

Further Ingredients that complement the action of these skin-smoothing ingredients are cell regenerating compounds, such as panthenyl derivatives, ceramides, which are modeled on the skin lipids, e.g. Ceramides 3, or phytosphingosines, that support collagen synthesis and stimulate.

In another embodiment of the present invention, which is particularly suitable for the production of eyeliners, the active substance system used is a combination of water-soluble salts and plant extracts. The salts have a vitalizing effect and provide the skin important trace elements, while the lipid-based extracts act as free-radical scavengers, skin-smoothing agents and collagen-promoting agents. In particular, alkaline earth, zinc and copper salts of di-, tri- or polyhydroxy acids are considered as salts. The hydroxy groups ensure that again water is attracted, resulting in a delayed and / or longer-lasting effect of the active ingredients. As especially suitable aspartate and gluconate salts have been found.

Essential for the inventive preparation it is that there is a lipid phase and a solid phase which contain a drug system. Other suitable ingredients the preparation will be described below.

Suitable raw materials for the production of said preparations are, as already stated, lipids which are listed below with the names known to the person skilled in the art according to the "International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients" (the so-called INCI name) and which are also described in at least Examples include fats and oils of plant, animal, mineral or synthetic origin such as Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, (Hydrogenated) Cottonseed Oil, (Hydrogenated) Castor Oil, (Hydrogenated) Vegetable Oil, (Hydrogenated) Rapeseed Oil , Hydrogenated Coconut Glycerides Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil Hydrogenated Sweet Almond Oil Hydrogenated Peanut Oil Magnifera Indica Mango Seed Oil Limnanthes Alba Meadowfoam Oil), Butyrosperum Parkii (Shea Butter), Macadamia Ternifolia Nut Oil (Macadamia Nut Oil), Buxus Chinensis Oil (Jojoba Oil), P ersea Gratissima Oil (Avocado Oil), Avocado Extract (Phytosterols and Persea Gratissima Oil), Calendula Oil, Hypericum Oil, (Hydrogenated) Stearyl Olive Esters, Theobroma Grandiflorum (Capuacu Butter), Shark Liver Oil, Squalane, Squalene, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride , (Hydrogenated) Polybutene, Mineral Oil, oil-soluble plant extracts and mixtures of these substances. Of straight-chain or branched alcohols with chain lengths between C ₃ and C ₄₀ , medium to long-chain fatty acids with chain lengths between C ₆ and C ₄₀ and their esters with a chain length between C ₃ and C _{40 of} the alcohol radical and with a chain length between C ₆ and C ₄₀ of the carboxylic acid moiety, have been found to be particularly advantageous, for example, octyldodecanol, Myristyloctadecanol, Myristyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Melissinyl Alcohol, Lauric acid, Myristic acid, Palmitinic acid, Stearic acid, Isostearic acid, Erucic acid, Behenic acid , Cerotinic Acid, Melissinic Acid, Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Butyl Stearate, Hexyl Oleate, Myristyl Lactate, Myristyl Myristate, Myristyl Isostearate, Myristyl Stearate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Cetyl Palmitate, Behenyl Erucate, Behenyl Behenate, Behenyl Stearate, Behenyl Isostearate, C20 -40 alkyl stearates and mixtures thereof. Among the waxes, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba), Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla Wax), Cera Alba (Beeswax), Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax (Japan Wax), Oryza Sativa Bran Wax, (Rice Bran Wax), Ouricury Wax , Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina), Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Polyethylene, Cera Microcristallina, Paraffin Wax, waxes from the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and mixtures thereof.

The Amounts of at room temperature, i. at in the range of 23 +/- 2 ° C liquid lipid components, So on oils and liquid Esters and waxes are in the range between 5 and 80% by weight, preferably in the range between 15 and 50% by weight, that at room temperature, So in the range of 23 +/- 2 ° C fixed Lipid components, ie fats, fatty alcohols, fatty acids whose Esters and waxes range between 1 and 65% by weight, preferably in the range between 5 and 45 wt .-%. The indication of the used and preferably used amounts, of course, with the proviso that itself the sum of all mentioned components one of the later still cited Recipes always supplemented to 100,000 wt .-%. The here and below cited Quantities can in some cases slightly under- or even exceeded and still preparations according to the invention to be obtained. For the expert would come this in no way due to the large number of possible substances mentioned above unexpectedly - he know Therefore, in the event of such a shortfall or overshoot, the framework of the above invention would not leave.

By Combination of different waxes, wax esters, different oils and others Lipid components, the consistency of the mass obtained can be adjusted as is known to those skilled in the art. Through a few routine experiments can for the appropriate purpose the appropriate combination be found. So can by using waxes with different melting points and of different proportions of oil and wax among others the viscosity or suppleness of the mass to be influenced.

Another constituent of the preparation essential to the invention is a solid phase, which may consist of finely divided fillers and / or optionally at least one colorant or of a mixture of two or more colorants. In addition, the solid phase contains water-soluble active substances which are to be added to the preparation. The colorants are preferably inorganic and / or organic pigments, in water and / or insoluble in the aforementioned lipid phase insoluble organic dyes and / or glitter based on coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, coated bismuth oxychloride, glass, platelet-shaped, at least Partially coated with other materials metal powder, at least partially coated with other materials finely divided plastic platelets, preferably PET platelets or solid solutions of dyes in suitable plastic matrices, preferably in polyester-3. In general, pigments are understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in water and the respective medium and which are intended to color and / or cloud the composition. These may be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic pigments in the commercial size of about 0.1 to 200 μm or having particle sizes in the nanometer range, ie, 5 to 100 nm, the so-called "nanopigments." In this area The choice of colorants is preferably such that their use and the amount used are in accordance with the requirements of Appendix 3 of the Cosmetics Regulation for Germany, which are valid on the European Union Comparable regulations are also available in Japan and the USA - suitable colorants should therefore preferably be chosen in such a way that they preferably comply with the applicable regulations worldwide 77891), iron oxides (CI No. 77491, 77492, 77499), ultramarine (CI No. 77007), Berliner Blau / Ferric Blue (CI No. 77510), carbon black / carbon black (CI-No. 77267) Chromium oxide green (CI No. 77288), chromium oxide hydrate green (CI No. 77289), manganese violet (CI No. 77742), zinc oxide (CI No. 77947), barium sulfate (CI No. 77120), glitter such as Mica, at least partially coated with titanium dioxide (CI No. 77891) and / or with other metal oxides such as iron oxides, chromium oxide green or chromium oxide green hydrate or with ultramarine and the like, colorants, bismuth oxychloride and its mixtures with mica (CI No. 77163), at least partially coated with titanium dioxide and / or other of the abovementioned metal oxides or other colorants, platelet-shaped, optionally finely divided metal powders such as, for example, aluminum (CI No. 77000), copper (CI No. 77400), bronze (CI No. 77400), Brass (CI No. 77400), silver (CI No. 77820) or gold (CI No. 77480). Organic colorants are advantageously selected from complex salts of carminic acid (CI No. 75470) and / or colorants selected from fluoresceins, monoazo dyes, bisazo dyes, indigotine dyes, pyrazole dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes, anthraquinone dyes and xanthan dyes, which are suitably Laking insolubilized. Examples include FD & C Red no. 3 (CI No. 45430), D & C Red No. 6 (CI No. 15850), D & C Red No. 7 (CI No. 15850: 1), D & C Red No. 21 (CI No. 45380: 2), D & C Red No. 22 (CI No. 45380), D & C Red 27 (CI No. 45410: 1), D & C Red 28 (CI No. 45410), D & C Red 30 (CI No. 73630), D & C Red No. 33 (CI No. 17200), D & C Red No. 34 (CI No. 15880: 1), FD & C Yellow No. 5, (CI No. 19140), FD & C No. 7 (CI No. 45350: 1), D & C Yellow No. 10 (CI No. 47005), D & C Orange No. 5 (CI No. 45370: 1), D & C Orange No. 10 (CI No. 45425: 1), FD & C Green No. 3 (CI No. 42053), D & C Green No. 5 (CI No. 61570), D & C Green No. No. 6 (CI No. 61565), FD & C Blue No.1 (CI No. 42090), D & C Violet No. 2 (CI No. 60725). If these colorants are not used as insoluble laking applications, they can also be used in the form of solid solutions in plastics. Known and inexpensive commercially available are such solid solutions that fluoresce intensively in the long-wave UV light, so-called "black light", eg under the INCI names "Polyester-3, Red 22", "Polyester-3, Red 28", "Polyester-3, Yellow 10" or "Polyester-3, Blue 1", although mixtures of these solid solutions may optionally also be used with other of the aforementioned colorants.

The Use amount of said colorants is - ever after desired Effect and the kind of the desired Product between 0.1 and 50 wt .-%, preferably between 1 and 40 Wt .-% and most preferably between 5 and 30 wt .-%. The The amount used depends on the one hand on the color intensity of the used Pigments and on the other hand also after the later technology for the production the desired Products.

Of the solid phase are also water-soluble Added active ingredients. A preferred water-soluble ingredient is a hyaluronic acid derivative or salt thereof. As stated above, becomes the hyaluronic acid or the hyaluronic acid salt in the dried state, possibly also in the form of microparticles, the Solid phase added and distributed along with the solid phase in the lipid phase. After this Apply the hyaluronic acid then to accumulate water. The same effect, i. To accumulate water, Can also be used with other plant ingredients, such as hydrolyzed Wheat protein can be achieved. The preparation according to the invention preferably contains at least one active ingredient, which by filling with water wrinkles up and skin smoothing acts.

One other preferred active ingredient contained in the solid phase is phytosphingosine or a derivative thereof, e.g. one with salicylic acid esterified phytosphingosine. Phytosphingosine and its derivatives stimulate collagen synthesis, which supports skin renewal and Furthermore a smoothing Has effect.

Another water-soluble component which can be added to the solid phase, preferably in combination with phytosphingosines and / or hyaluronic acid salts, are ceramides. Ceramides are commonly used in cosmetic compositions because they help to renew the natural protective layer of the skin and form an effective barrier against moisture loss. The combination of ceramides with Hyaluronsäurederivaten and / or Phytosphingosinderivaten is therefore particularly advantageous. Ceramide 3 is particularly preferably used as the ceramide.

Next the above-mentioned ingredients can the preparation according to the invention in the solid phase still fillers such as. Talc, kaolin, silicas, Alumina, which may possibly also be in amorphous form, Strength, modified starch, Polytetrafluoroethylene powder ("Teflon"), polyamide powder, Polyethylene powder, polypropylene powder and other polymer powders, Boron nitride, insoluble Metallic soaps such as Mg stearate, Ca stearate, Sr stearate, Zn stearate and / or mixtures of these substances. These finely divided or fibrous fillers, in general particle sizes between 0.1 and 10 μm are used in amounts between 0.1 and 25 wt .-%, preferably between 1 and 12% by weight. In addition, even in cosmetics conventional additives like synthetic or natural Fibers such as e.g. those of polyamides, polyesters, elastanes, polyacrylonitrile, Rayon, viscose, artificial silk, silk, wool, cotton, linen, cellulose, regenerated cellulose or mixtures thereof, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrance mixtures, defoamers, Thickeners, dispersing agents, emollients, light stabilizers for the purpose of product protection or as protection of the human body before the harmful ones Effects of UV-A and UV-B radiation in sunlight and the like be used.

In a preferred embodiment contains the aforesaid preparation, in particular cosmetic preparation, which, as stated above, is present as a lipid-based and anhydrous mixture, one also Anhydrous combination of slightly water-soluble active ingredients with lipid-based Active ingredients and lipidic plant extracts in the form of a special coordinated active ingredient complex, ie a so-called "Vitalisierungskomplexes", the "active ingredient cocktail" with revitalizing, Energizing, wrinkling and visible signs the skin aging counteracting properties. As special suitable here is a combination of water-soluble Salting with herbal extracts, which is believed to be they have an effect on the skin, shown. Come as salts in particular salts of carboxylic acids with hydroxy functions, in particular di-, tri- and / or polyhydroxy acids with Alkaline earth ions, zinc and / or copper ions into consideration. Especially Salts of aspartic acid and gluconic acid are preferably used.

vegetable Extracts that have a beneficial effect on the skin are known to the skilled person. Particularly suitable have e.g. extracts of Echium Plantagineum (Natterhead) with Cardiospermum Halicacabum (Balloon Vine) and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower). The combination from Echium Plantagineum (Natterhead) with Cardiospermum Halicacabum (Balloon Vine) and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) has a cell regenerating effect, balancing and harmonizing and serves as a very good overall Skin protection.

The Combination of Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate and Copper Gluconate acts energy-giving and revitalizing and provides the skin at the same time important trace elements. A combination of these three Salts are therefore preferably used. Ascorbic acid derivatives are preferred as radical scavengers and Antioxidants used. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is one over one longer Period storage-stable form of vitamin C - it acts as a radical scavenger, acts Wrinkling and the visible signs of aging and promotes the collagen synthesis in the tissue, and is therefore used with particular preference. Of the hyaluronic acid derivatives Sodium Hyaluronate is considered a very effective moisturizer, reduces so the wrinkle depth and has regenerating and therefore also prefers. In combination, the lead above-mentioned special compounds to particularly advantageous Effects.

A Therefore, particularly preferred composition according to the invention contains a combination of the plant extracts of Echium Plantagineum, Cardiospermum Halicacabum and Helianthus Annuus with Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Sodium Hyaluronate and with tocopheryl nicotinate. This leads to a Drug combination that goes far beyond the effect of the single substance outgoing effect, which is surprising. Such a "cocktail of active ingredients" shows synergistic Effect.

The amounts of the aforementioned active ingredients in the finished product, based on the total amount of the preparation, are between 0.01 and 1.5% by weight for magnesium aspartates and zinc gluconates, and between 0.001 and 0.5% by weight for copper gluconates and sodium hyaluronates. %, for sodium ascorbyl phosphates between 0.1 and 10% by weight, for tocopheryl nicotinates, niacin and niacinamides or mixtures thereof between 0.01 and 2.0% by weight and for the lipidic combination of Echium plantagineum (Natterkopf) with Cardiospermum halicacabum (balloon vine) and Helianthus annuus (sunflower) between 0.1 and 15% by weight. Preferably, the extraction of the plant material is carried out with a triglyceride such as Sesame Oil, Rapeseed Oil, Sunflower Oil or Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride or with Octyldodecanol, Hexyl Oleate, Jojoba Oil or mixtures thereof. It is essential to the invention that the constituents of the active ingredient complex are also present in the intended amount in the ready-to-use preparation - it is irrelevant whether they are weighed into individual portions and added individually to the mixture to be prepared or if two premixes are used to minimize the error and to improve the production process. a liquid phase which produces the lipid-soluble constituents and a solid phase which contains the water-soluble constituents in undissolved, ie solid form. Experience has shown that such a variation is of no importance for the finished end product.

A Another particularly effective combination of ingredients the following: Phytosphingosine derivatives in combination with Vegetal Filling Spheres and / or Hyaluronic Filling Spheres, which may still be by tocopheryl nicotinates, D-Panthenyl triacetates and / or ceramides 3 can be. It was found that tocopheryl nicotinate, D-panthenyl triacetate and Ceramide 3 along with Hyaluronic acid sodium salt a particular efficient complex of active substances that make the skin special Way even and beautified.

phytosphingosine stimulate collagen synthesis and thereby support skin renewal, they have a wrinkle-smoothing Effect. Particularly suitable as phytosphingosine derivative is salicoyl Phytosphingosine. The phytosphingosine derivatives are preferred in in an amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition added.

Around Fill in wrinkles and thereby a skin smoothing To achieve, it has proved to be advantageous, swelling products in the form of globules use. Particularly suitable in this context are microspheres from natural Polymers that are swellable are. Hyaluronic acid and are particularly well suited for this purpose their derivatives and hydrolyzed wheat protein. In a special preferred embodiment these polymers in the form of beads used, consisting of the polymer and optionally further inert carriers can exist and coated or coated with a film to Properties such as swellability or also dispensability to control. Be particularly advantageous under the name "Vegetal Filling Spheres "or Hyaluronic Filling Spheres "im Proven products. Particularly preferred the preparation according to the invention therefore Vegetal Filling Spheres or Hyaluronic Filling Spheres or a combination of both added. The amount of these polymers is in a range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total preparation.

The Esters of nicotinic acid promote blood circulation - but can quite connected to a perceived as unpleasant hot flush with intense skin reddening, to lead. Esters such as ethyl nicotinate or benzyl nicotinate are outstanding Moreover, not by a special fragrance. A much milder effect on the other hand shows the tocopheryl nicotinate, which also as radical scavenger and Antioxidant is used and prefers the microcirculation in stimulates the upper layers of the skin - the same applies, by the way also for niacin or niacinamide. Nicotinate carries in combination with phytosphingosines also to a skin smoothing Effect. In this combination it is preferred in an amount from 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-% based on the total preparation used.

Also Panthenyl triacetate supported which is the effect of phytosphingosine and therefore combined used with these preferred. The preferred amount is 1 to 3 Wt .-% based on the total preparation.

Ceramide support the cell regeneration and supplement hence the effect of phytosphingosine as well. Additionally deliver they moisture. They are preferred in an amount of 0.05 to 0.5, more preferably 0.08 to 0.3 wt .-% based on the total preparation added.

One Another beneficial ingredient is Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt, which in this combination is preferred in an amount from 0.01 to 01 wt .-% based on the total preparation added becomes.

All in all has a combination of Phytosphingosine SLC, Filling Spheres based on hydrolyzed wheat protein and / or hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, tocopheryl nicotinate, D-panthenyl triacetate, Ceramide 3 and Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt replenish wrinkles and smoother Active complex with very good properties and proven therefore preferably used.

The inventive preparation Can be used as a supple cream or as a make-up for a beauty pencil The preparation is especially good for making mines suitable because the mine mass is soft and gives off easily, anyway but is self-supporting.

One Another advantage of the preparation according to the invention is that it is possible is preferred, high drug loading mines in the range of 3 to 7 3.5 to 5.5 wt .-% provide. As drug carriers were previously made creams or ointments; for mines was an active ingredient loading, as it is now enabled by the special composition so far not considered suitable. Because of the consistency, the produced by the combination of solid phase and lipid phase, can therefore novel textures are created in mine form.

The Production of products in the form of pens made with a mine a spreadable In principle, mass can be known extrusion process in which the mass below high pressure in the range between 10 and 100 MPa, preferably between 20 and 50 MPa, to strands is pressed, which subsequently cut and in a serving made of wood, wood substitutes or plastic are introduced. Is possible also, one over their melting point heated Pour mass into appropriate molds - if necessary with simultaneous molding a bit - she cool in it to let and the resulting castings after demolding after the methods of the extrusion process further. Is possible it too, one over their melting point heated Pour mass directly into suitable application equipment.

The inventive preparation can be provided by first in a conventional manner from a suitable lipid phase and solid phase a preparation, in particular a cosmetic preparation, for the manufacture of products in stick form or in the form of smooth pastes suitable for cosmetic applications, especially in the field of decorative cosmetics, for dyeing, beautifying and Maintain keratinic materials such as e.g. of the skin, of semi-mucous membranes and mucous membranes, the lips and the eyelids and their surroundings, and then these with a combination of slightly water-soluble and lipid-soluble Active ingredients which are in the form of a specially tailored in the effect Complex of active substances may be present equips to the preparation of the invention in addition to decorative properties pronounced nourishing moments in the sense from sustained vitalizing, energizing, and microcirculation and thus has the substance transport of the skin stimulating effect. These effects are intended to ultimately make the overall picture of the skin positive affect the fine structure of the skin surface improve the wrinkle depth reduce fatigue and fatigue and counteract the premature aging of the skin. Lipid-soluble active ingredients can be naturally very easy in incorporate a lipidic phase. Surprisingly, now found that also water-soluble, especially light water-soluble Active ingredients good and even - similar to the aforementioned solid phase in undissolved, ie in solid form - in one incorporate lipidic phase. To the water-soluble However, releasing active substances from them requires moisture, which in the microclimate over the skin, in the form of transpiration or steam is. It is advantageous that the aforementioned, water-soluble Active ingredients can develop a depot effect in this way, since they move from train to train by the action of moisture Removed lipid film become. Thus they stand over a longer one Period available in sufficient quantity until the reservoir is used up is. Examples include lipstick, lip rouge, cheek rouge, Lipliner, eyeliners, eyebrow pencils, hair dyeing pencils, kohl, kohl, make-up Pens, concealers, concealer, effect party make-up, mascara, hair mascara or eye shadow. It can also - in unpigmented form or with "not dyeing "so-called" nanopigments "- as a lip balm, Lip balm, lip gloss, as a fixing foundation for the lips, as Care for the care of the skin or as a sunscreen be used.

In principle, it is possible to produce a preparation, in particular a cosmetic preparation anhydrous and lipid-based by melting the lipid components in a suitable vessel at elevated temperature, adding the solid phase by means of a high-speed stirrer and this mixture as needed once or more times by a homogenizer such as three-roll mill , Corundum disk mill, colloid mill (with heatable jacket) or kneading devices happened. In one part of the preparation, the anhydrous "cocktail of active ingredients" is incorporated and later homogenized together with the main portion of the preparation.If the preparation contains glitter, they are added only before the last passage of the three-roll mill.Aluminum disc mill or colloid mill prohibit homogenization in this particular case The preparation thus obtained can then be extruded in the usual way into mine strands which are cut to the required extent and further processed in the manner known from the manufacture of pencils into cosmetic pencils which comprise a casing made of wood, a wood substitute or a wood produced in a known manner These pins can be sharpened in a conventional manner with a commercial sharpener by machining their sleeves machined The mines But sections can also be used in suitable turning mechanisms, as they are made DE 37 28 427 C2 are known or transparent sleeves, according to EP 1 464 248 A1 , be plugged. But is also known, such a preparation at elevated temperature and in the liquid state according to the in EP 0 310 799 B1 or DE 44 45 230 C2 or 44 45 231 C2 or EP 1 150 588 B1 or US 6,206,597 to introduce it into a suitable turning mechanism. If such a preparation, in particular cosmetic preparation provided in the form of a supple paste, it may, for example, in an applicator according to US 6,238,117 or EP 1 426 118 A1 or EP 1 468 937 A1 or DE 20 2004 004 567 U1 bottled and dosed from it and applied as needed. But they can also be filled at elevated temperature and in a liquid state in a tube or a crucible or a suitable pans made of metal. If these products are produced in the form of a mascara or hair mascara, then you are in the usual way in the provided, transparent or colored in the color of the mass or the "house color" of the provider filled containers containing a removable cap with a inserted therein have attached to a handle attached applicator elements EP 1 419 711 B1 . EP 1 419 712 B1 . EP 1 446 033 B1 and EP 1 463 425 B1 described.

The preparation according to the invention, in particular cosmetic preparation, will now be explained in detail with reference to the following examples, which, however, do not exhaustively describe or limit them. The quantities are given in percent by weight (% by weight), based in each case on the total weight of the preparation, the description of the raw materials is carried out with the "INCI name" generally known to the person skilled in the art. Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.1 Tocopheryl nicotinates 10,000 Octyldodecanol + Echium Plantagineum + Cardiospermum Halicacabum + Helianthus annuus 90,000 Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 Magnesium Aspartates 8,000 Zinc Gluconate 5,500 Copper gluconate 0.900 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 81.100 Sodium hyaluronate 4,500 Example 2 (Eyeliner) (A) Synthetic Wax 3,500 polyethylenes 5,200 polybutenes 4,800 Cera Microcristallina 1,600 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 3,400 Buxus Chinensis Oil 4,500 Phytosterols + Persea Gratissima Oil 2,250 Theobroma grandiflorum 2,200 Tetradibutyl pentaerythrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0,300 (B) Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.1 6,750 Cyclopentasiloxane 24,000 Dimethicone 1.5 cst 11,500 (C) Silica Silylates 3,000 Ferric Ferrocyanide (CI No. 77510) 9,700 Chromium Hydroxide Green (CI No. 77289) 4,300 (D) Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 6,000 Mica and Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) 7,000

To prepare the preparation, the ingredients of the phase (A) are placed in a suitable vessel and clearly melted with heating, then the ingredients of the phase (C) with good stirring with a sprocket or the like. Dispersed therein. This mixture is now passed twice through a three-roll mill. The components of the phase (D) are now distributed as evenly as possible over the rolling stock, this mixed again and passed through the three-roll chair again. The obtained Mixture is then melted again in a vacuum process plant with heating, then the cyclopentasiloxane and the dimethicone and finally the active ingredient complex lipid phase 1.1 are added. The mixture is briefly homogenized, vented and filled into tightly closed storage containers or provided directly for hot filling in rotary mechanisms. The result is a blue-green mine with light pearlescent, which can be very easily and evenly applied to the edge of the lid, where it adheres well and extremely long, does not emigrate from the job site and can be easily removed with a commercial make-up remover. With multiple applications of this eyeliners the skin is stimulated in the sense of a vitalization. Increasing the microcirculation improves the mass transfer, the fine structure of the skin surface by reducing the wrinkle depth and smoothing the fine wrinkles. The preparation thus counteracts premature skin aging. Example 3 (Eyeliner) (A) paraffin wax 7,200 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4,500 ozocerites 4,300 PEG-6 Beeswax 3,600 Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate 6,250 (B) Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.1 6,750 Cyclopentasiloxane 30,300 Ascorbyl palmitate 0,050 tocopherol 0,250 methylparaben 0,150 Propylparaben 0,100 BHT 0,050 (C) Iron Oxide Black (CI No. 77499) 2,700 Chromium Oxide Green (CI No. 77288) 14,000 Chromium Hydroxide Green (CI No. 77289) 4,200 Titanium dioxides (CI No. 77891) 2,600 (D) Mica and Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) 7,000 Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 6,000

The Production of the preparation and processing essentially takes place in analogy to Example 2. Obtained by casting moss-green to be produced Mine, which apply very easily and evenly to the edge of the lid leaves, good and extraordinary there is liable for a long time, does not emigrate from the place of work and settles with one commercial Make-up remover easily removed again.

With multiple applications of this eyeliners the skin is stimulated in the sense of a vitalization. Increasing the microcirculation improves the mass transfer, the fine structure of the skin surface by reducing the wrinkle depth and smoothing the fine wrinkles. The preparation thus counteracts premature skin aging. Example 4 (Lipliner) (A) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 9,200 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 3,900 Behenyl behenate 4,500 Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) 1,800 Buxus Chinensis Oil Jojoba Oil) 6,150 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) 3,600 Behenic Acid 15,500 (B) Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.1 5,800 Ascorbyl palmitate 0,050 tocopherol 0,250 methylparaben 0,150 Propylparaben 0,100 (C) Iron Oxide Yellow (CI No. 77491) 5,400 Iron Oxide Red (CI No. 77492) 24,200 Iron Oxide Black (CI No. 77499) 2,500 D & C Red 7 (CI No. 15850: 1) 6,400 D & C Red 30 (CI No. 73630) 5,200 (D) Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 5,200

To prepare the preparation, the phase (A) is clearly melted in a suitable vessel with heating. Then, the phase (C) is incorporated homogeneously while stirring with a sprocket stirrer. The mixture is now passed twice through a three-roll mill. The phase (B) is optionally dissolved homogeneously with gentle heating
and distributed homogeneously over the rolling stock together with the phase (D). Thereafter, the approach is again passed through a three-roll chair. The mass is then pressed to an extrudable body and thereby deaerated and then pressed under high pressure - at 40 to 60 MPa (400 to 600 bar) - into strands that are cut to length and processed in a known manner to wood pencils. A brownish-red lead with good hiding power is applied, which can be applied well to the edge of the lip, does not blur, adheres for a long time, does not transfer to objects or other materials, and does not migrate from the job site to finer skin folds. With repeated use of this lipliner the skin is stimulated in the sense of a vitalization. Increasing the microcirculation improves the mass transfer, the fine structure of the skin surface by reducing the wrinkle depth and smoothing the fine wrinkles. The preparation thus counteracts premature skin aging. Example 5 (Lipliner) (A) polyethylene 11,200 Cera Alba (Beeswax) 3,250 Di-PPG-3 myristyl ether adipate 3,100 Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate 2,150 Pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate 1,800 Isodecyl Neopentanoate 2,100 Dimethicone / Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer 1,700 polybutene 9,300 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 6,300 (B) Cyclopentasiloxanes 28,000 Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.1 4,500 Ascorbyl palmitate 0,050 tocopherol 0,200 methylparaben 0,150 Propylparaben 0,100 (C) Iron Oxide Red (CI No. 77492) 10,500 Iron Oxide Yellow (CI No. 77491) 1,300 Iron Oxide Black (CI No. 77499) 0,700 D & C Red 7 (CI No. 15850: 1) 2,000 Stearalkonium bentonite 0,300 Boron Nitride 3,300 Talc 4,000 (D) Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 4,000

To prepare the preparation, the constituents of the phase (A) are melted with heating and stirring, it being important to ensure that the trimethylsiloxysilicate completely dissolves in the lipid phase. The components of the solids phase (C) are then added and the mixture is worked up homogeneously while stirring. The mixture is now passed twice through a three-roll mill. The phase (D) is now distributed as evenly as possible over the rolling stock, then the approach is again passed through a three-roll mill and then melted again in a suitable vessel with heating. In the meantime, the constituents of phase (B) are dissolved in the cyclopentasiloxane, after which phase (B) is combined with the batch and stirred well. The resulting mixture can then be poured into the above-described rotary mechanisms with suitable equipment. You get a red mine with a slight brownish color and good opacity, which can be applied very well and evenly on the edge of the lip, does not blur, adheres very long, does not transfer to objects or other materials and does not walk away from the job in finer skin folds , With repeated use of this lipliner the skin is stimulated in the sense of a vitalization. Increasing the microcirculation improves the mass transfer, the fine structure of the skin surface by reducing the wrinkle depth and smoothing the fine wrinkles. The preparation thus counteracts premature skin aging. Example 6 (creamy lip gloss) (A) polybutenes 17,600 Behenylbehenate 3,300 Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) 3,700 Isostearyl isostearates 3,000 Dimethicone 200 cst 4,400 phenyltrimethicones 1,300 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 5,500 (B) Isododecane 10,000 Cyclopentasiloxane 23,500 Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.1 5,200 phenoxyethanol 0,400 Ascorbyl palmitate 0,050 tocopherol 0,200 methylparaben 0,150 Propylparaben 0,100 (C) Mica and Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) 14,000 D & C Red 7 (CI No. 15850: 1) 2,600 (D) Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 5,000

To prepare the preparation, the components of the phase (A) are melted under heating and stirring in a suitable vessel, it being important to ensure that the trimethylsiloxysilicate dissolves completely in the lipid phase. Now take about one-quarter of this lipid phase and stir in the D & C Red 7, passing this mixture twice through a three-roll mill. Now spread the phase (D) as evenly as possible on the rolling stock, mix and pass this amount again through a three-roll mill and combines the rolling stock with the molten residue of the phase (A). Now sprinkle the pearl pigment with good stirring. In the meantime, all components of phase (B) were dissolved in isododecane. The cyclopentasiloxane is now added and the phase (B) is added to the batch with stirring. The mixture is then cooled with gentle stirring from the approach to about 35 - 40 ° C to prevent settling of the colorants and transferred the mass in tightly closed storage containers to bswp later. in application devices accordingly US 6,238,117 or EP 1 426 118 A1 fill and apply. The result is a creamy, glossy lip gloss, which can be applied very light and evenly and - with the listed devices - even sharp contours on the skin of the lips, where it remains long-lasting and does not emigrate from the job site. With multiple applications of this lip gloss the skin is stimulated in the sense of a vitalization. Increasing the microcirculation improves the mass transfer, the fine structure of the skin surface by reducing the wrinkle depth and smoothing the fine wrinkles. The preparation thus counteracts premature skin aging. Example 7 (lip balm with sunscreen) (A) acetylated lanolin 7,500 lanolin 17,700 Cera alba (Beeswax) 10,000 Behenyl behenate 7,300 Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) 1,800 Castor oil 24,300 (B) Isododecane 10,000 Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.1 5,200 Ascorbyl palmitate 0,050 tocopherol 0,200 methylparaben 0,150 Propylparaben 0,100 (C) Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) - Nanopigment 7,500 Mica and Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) 2,500 Iron Oxide Red (CI No. 77491) 0,500 D & C Red 7 (CI No. 15850: 1) 0,200 (D) Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 5,000

To prepare the preparation, the phase (A) is melted in a suitable vessel. you takes about a quarter of it off, mixes therein the colorants of the phase (C) except for the pearlescent agent and passes twice through a three-roll mill. Now scatter the phase (D) and the pearl pigment as evenly as possible over the rolling stock and again passes through a three-roll mill. In the meantime, the components of phase (B) were dissolved in the isodecane. Now combine the rolling stock with the rest of the phase (A) and now sets the homogeneous mixture of the phase (B). Now fill the finished mixture in tightly closed storage containers or direct it to further processing. The composition is preferably suitable for filling in known spindle mechanisms - but it can also be processed into the customary in the Lipstickherstelung way to mine casting, which are used by machine or by hand in suitable rotary mechanisms. With multiple application of this lip balm the skin is stimulated in the sense of a vitalization. Increasing the microcirculation improves the mass transfer, the fine structure of the skin surface by reducing the wrinkle depth and smoothing the fine wrinkles. The preparation thus counteracts premature skin aging. Example 8 (Anti-wrinkle, line-filling and hydrating active complex) Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.1 Tocopheryl nicotinates 5,500 Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate + Silica Dimethyl Silylate + Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 44,000 Panthenyl triacetate 50,500 Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 Sodium hyaluronate 15,000 Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine 55,000 Ceramides 3 30,000 Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.3 Tocopheryl nicotinates 5,500 Ethylhexyl palmitate + silica dimethyl silylate + Butylene Glycol + Sodium Hyaluronate 44,000 Panthenyl triacetate 50,500

From the specified ingredients, a lipid phase or solid phase is prepared. For each of the following products a lipid phase and the solid phase are combined. There are obtained cosmetic products with skin-smoothing effect. Example 9 (Lipliner) (A) Synthetic Wax 2,000 Hydrogenated Stearyl Olive Esters 2,500 Synthetic Beeswax 4,800 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil 3,700 Candelilla Cera 8,000 Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) 6,000 Bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 7,500 Coco-caprylate / caprate 2,500 Tetradibutyl pentaerythrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0,300 (B) Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.1 4,700 Cyclopentasiloxane 35,000 octyldodecanol 2,000 (C) Silica Silylates 5,000 Iron Oxide Red (CI No. 77492) 6,800 Iron Oxide Black (CI No. 77499) 0,800 D & C Red 7 (CI No. 15850: 1) 2,100 (D) Mica and Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) 4,300 Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 2,000

The ingredients were processed as described in Example 2. From the resulting preparation, a lipliner was prepared, which was easy to apply, was pleasant to the touch, hydrated, replenished wrinkles, and optically smoothed the skin. This lipliner can be used as an "anti-wrinkle" product. Example 10 (hydrating lipstick) (A) polybutenes 13,000 polyethylenes 7,000 Cera Microcristallina 5,000 Isopropyl myristate 29,000 Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 18,200 Cetearyl behenate 3,000 Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates 1,900 (B) Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.1 4,700 tocopherol 0,200 Ascorbyl palmitate 0,050 (C) Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) nanopigment 5,400 D & C Red 7 (CI No. 15850: 1) 0.950 Iron Oxide Yellow (CI No. 77491) 0,700 Iron Oxide Red (CI No. 77492) 2,000 (D) Mica and Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) 6,900 Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 2,000

The ingredients are processed by a method as described in Example 2 to a formulation that is formed into a lipstick. The lipstick creates a pleasant feeling on the skin. Example 11 (Eyeliner) (A) paraffin wax 8,000 ozocerites 4,000 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil 6,100 Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 14,000 Isopropyl palmitate 7,500 (B) Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.1 4,700 Cyclopentasiloxane 32,000 tocopherol 0,200 Ascorbyl palmitate 0,050 (C) Iron Oxide Yellow (CI No. 77491) 4,000 Iron Oxide Black (CI No. 77499) 5,500 Ferric Ferrocyanide (CI No. 77510) 9,950 (D) Mica and Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) 2,000 Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 2,000

By a method as described in Example 2, the ingredients are processed into a formulation used as an eyeliner. The eyeliner is easy to apply, has a smoothing effect and moisturizes the skin. Example 12 (Lipliner) (A) Hydrogenated Stearyl Olive Esters 3,000 Synthetic Beeswax 4,800 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil 6,700 Candelilla Cera 9,000 Copernicia Cerifera ((Carnauba) 5,000 Bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 7,500 Tetradibutyl pentaerythrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0,300 (B) Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.3 4,700 Cyclopentasiloxane 34,000 octyldodecanol 4,000 (C) Silica Silylates 5,000 Iron Oxide Yellow (CI No. 77491) 4,700 Iron Oxide Black (CI No. 77499) 0,800 D & C Red 30 (CI No. 73630) 1,900 (D) Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 2,000 Mica and Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) 6,600

By a method as described in Example 2, the ingredients are processed into a formulation which is used as a lip liner. The job adheres for a long time and provides an anti-wrinkle effect. Example 13 (lipstick) (A) Polyethylene 3,000 Cera Alba (Beeswax) 10,000 Candelilla Cera 8,000 octyldodecanol 5,000 Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 16,700 Cetearyl behenate 2,000 Tetradibutyl pentaerythrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0,200 (B) Active Complex Lipid Phase 1.3 4,700 Isododecane 18,000 (C) Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) nanopigment 6,400 D & C Red 30 (CI No. 73630) 1,300 Iron Oxide Black (CI No. 77499) 0,500 Iron Oxide Red (CI No. 77492) 7,200 (D) Mica and Titanium Dioxide (CI No. 77891) 15,000 Active substance complex solid phase 1.2 2,000

As carried out in Example 2 the ingredients are processed into a preparation that is to a lipstick is formed. The lipstick will be through his hydrating effect felt very pleasant.

Claims (29)

Anhydrous preparation for application to the Skin containing a lipid phase with a solid distributed therein Phase and a drug system, wherein the drug system is a combination from water soluble and lipid-soluble Active ingredients, wherein the water-soluble active ingredients in the solid Phase are included while the lipid-soluble Active ingredients dissolved in the lipid phase available. Preparation according to claim 1 for the field of decorative Cosmetics, for dyeing, beautify and care of keratinous materials, such as the skin, of semi-mucous membranes and mucous membranes, lips, eyelids of eyelashes and eyebrows. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that it is present as a smooth paste. Preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized that it is in the form of an insertable into a pen mine. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Fat and waxes are used in such proportions that one supple mass arises. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that as water-soluble Active ingredients such active ingredients are included, their solubility at least 10 g per 100 g of water. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the active ingredient system hyaluronic acid or a hyaluronic acid salt or hyaluronic derivative. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the solid phase is hyaluronic acid or a hyaluronic acid derivative, Phytosphingosine or a Phytosphingosinderivat and / or at least contains a ceramide. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the lipid phase contains at least one vitamin or Contains vitamin derivative. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the lipid phase tocopheryl nicotinate and / or Panthenyl triacetate contains. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the lipid phase is hydrolyzed wheat protein contains. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the solid phase is an alkaline earth, zinc and / or Copper salt of a hydroxyl-containing acid. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the solid phase is a combination of magnesium aspartate, Zinc gluconate, copper gluconate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium hyaluronate contains. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the lipid phase is a combination of plant Contains extracts. Preparation according to claim 14, characterized that the lipid phase is a combination of extracts of Echium Plantagineum, Cardiospermum halicacabum and Helianthus annuus contains. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that it is a combination of Phytosphingosine, hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof and / or hydrolyzed wheat protein, Tocopheryl Nicotinate, D-Panthenyl Triacetate, Ceramide 3 and Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt contains. Preparation according to Claim 16, characterized that they are hyaluronic acid and / or wheat protein in the form of microparticles containing can be coated. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipid phase is selected from fats, oils, oil-soluble plant extracts, saturated linear and / or branched-chain alcohols having chain lengths of C ₃ to C ₄₀ , saturated linear and / or branched chain medium to long-chain fatty acids with chain lengths between C ₆ and C ₄₀ , or those with at least one double bond and / or their esters and / or waxes and / or mixtures thereof. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid at room temperature lipid components in the range between 5 and 80 wt .-%, preferably in the range between 15 and 50 wt .-% are used. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid at room temperature lipid components in the range between 1 and 65 wt .-%, preferably in the range between 5 and 45 wt .-% are used. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid phase of finely divided fillers and at least one colorant or mixtures thereof. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the finely divided fillers of the solid phase selected were talc, kaolin, starch, modified starch, Polytetrafluoroethylene powder ("Teflon"), polyamide powder, Polyethylene powder, polypropylene powder and other polymer powders, Boron nitride, insoluble Metallic soaps such as Mg stearate, Ca stearate, Sr stearate, Zn stearate or mixtures of these substances. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in addition to a lipid phase and a Solid phase optionally still in cosmetics usual additives such as synthetic or natural Fibers, e.g. those made of polyamides, polyesters, elastane, Polyacrylonitrile, rayon, viscose, rayon, silk, wool, cotton, Linen, cellulose, regenerated cellulose or mixtures thereof, antioxidants, Preservatives, perfume mixtures, defoamers, thickeners, dispersing agents, Emollients, light stabilizers or mixtures thereof. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colorants of the solid phase selected were under inorganic and / or organic pigments, in water or insoluble in the lipid phase Laking organic dyes and / or glitter on Base of coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, coated Bismuth oxychloride, glass, platy, at least partially coated with other materials metal powders, at least partially coated with other materials finely divided plastic platelets, preferably PET platelets or solid solutions of Dyes in suitable plastic matrices, preferably in polyester-3 and mixtures of the aforementioned colorants. Preparation according to claim 24, characterized in that it is in the solid solutions of dyes in polyester-3 to fluoresce intensively in long-wave UV light solid solutions is. Preparation according to one the claims 24 or 25, characterized in that they are in the long-wave UV light strongly fluorescent solid solutions selected were under "polyester-3, Red 22 "," Polyester-3, Red 28 "," Polyester-3, Yellow 10 "or" Polyester-3, Blue 1 ", possibly also in mixtures with other of the aforementioned colorants. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 22 to 26, characterized in that the colorants in an amount between 0.1 and 45 wt .-%, preferably in an amount between 1 and 40 wt .-% and most preferably used in an amount between 5 and 30 wt .-%. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 22 to 27, characterized in that the finely divided fillers the solid phase in an amount between 0.1 and 25 wt .-%, preferably in an amount between 1 and 12 wt .-% are used. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a cast mine, wherein the preparation is at a temperature above its pour point poured into suitable molds and cooled therein.