DE19834813A1 - Use of glycerin and/or glycol esters of aliphatic 20-40C fatty acids, e.g., glyceryl behenate, to strengthen the barrier function of skin, e.g., to protect against skin aging - Google Patents

Abstract

Glycerin and/or glycol ester of an aliphatic, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated 20-40C fatty acid is used in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for strengthening the barrier function of skin.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of glycerol and / or glycol esters long-chain, aliphatic, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids in cosmetic and dermatological preparations for strengthening the barrier function of the skin.

The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many features (for example for heat regulation and sensory organ) is the barrier function, the drying out of the Skin (and ultimately the entire organism) prevents, probably the most important. equal In time, the skin acts as a protective device against the ingress and the absorption of au ßen coming substances. This barrier function is caused by the epidermis, which as outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. With about one Tenth of the total thickness is at the same time the thinnest layer of the skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (Stratum corneum), which represents the barrier function important part. She is in the Kon worn out with the environment and is therefore in a constant renewal process, whereby outwardly continuously fine scales are released and from the inside ver horntes cell and lipid material is reproduced.

The skin model of Elias (P.M. Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105) describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (Bricks and mortar model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond the bricks, the complex composite lipid membrane in the Intercellular spaces correspond to the mortar. This system essentially provides one  physical barrier to hydrophilic substances, but can due to its narrow and multi-layered structure equally difficult for lipophilic substances to be passed. The special structure of the horny layer protects both the skin and On the other hand, it stabilizes its own flexibility by binding a defined one Amount of water.

Also mechanical loads, such as pressure, impact or shear forces, can to a surprising extent through the horny layer alone or in conjunction with the deeper skin layers are intercepted. Greater pressure, turning or shearing forces Beyond the interlocking of the epidermis with the corium to deeper skin layers passed.

The regulation of water and moisture content is one of the most important functions the epidermal lipid membrane. However, not only does it have a barrier against ex ternal chemical and physical influences, but also contributes to the cohesion of Horny layer at.

The lipids of the horny layer consist essentially of ceramides, free fatty acids, Cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate and are distributed over the entire horny layer. The Zu composition of these lipids is responsible for the intact function of the epidermal barrier and thus crucial for the impermeability of the skin.

Already with a cleaning of the skin with the help of a simple water bath - without addition of surfactants - there is initially a swelling of the horny layer of the skin. The degree this swelling depends u. a. from the duration of the bath and its temperature. Gleichzei Tig are water-soluble substances washed off or washed out, such as. B. water-soluble Dirt components, but also the skin's own substances that are responsible for the water binding capacity the horny layer are responsible. By skin's own surface-active substances In addition, skin fats also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent. This conditionally after initial swelling, subsequent dehydration of the skin by washing active additives can be significantly enhanced.

In healthy skin, these processes are generally trivial, since the protective mecha skin disorders such minor disorders of the upper skin layers readily com can pensieren. But even in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal  tus, z. B. by environmental wear or irritation, photodamage, Al skin, etc., the protective mechanism on the skin surface is disturbed.

In old skin, for example, the regenerative renewal slows down, in particular especially the water binding capacity of the horny layer decreases. It becomes inflexible bad, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). A barrier damage is the result. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, Toxins and allergens. As a result, it can even turn into toxic or allergic skin come.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, barrier damage is a priori. Epidermal intercellular lipids are apparently incorrect or in insufficient quantity or Composition formed. The consequence is an increased permeability of the horn layer and insufficient protection of the skin from loss of hygroscopic Substances and water.

The barrier effect of the skin can be determined by determining the transepidermal water ratio (TEWL - transepidermal water loss). It refers to the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without the involvement of the Water loss during sweating. The determination of the TEWL value has proved to be extremely informative and can be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin, to determine the compatibility of chemically diverse surfactants and the like are used more.

For the beauty and nourishment of the skin is the water content in the uppermost skin layer of utmost importance. You can do it to a limited extent by Einbrin conditions of moisture regulators favorably influence.

Anionic surfactants, which are generally constituents of cleaning preparations can increase the pH in the stratum corneum long-lasting, causing regenerative Processes that serve to restore and renew the barrier function of the skin, severely handicapped. In this case arises in the horny layer between regeneration and the loss of essential substances by regular extraction a new, often very unfavorable state of equilibrium, the external appearance of the skin and the Physiological function of the horny layer decisively impaired.  

Skincare in the sense of the present invention is to be understood in the first place that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, Chemi microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, Lipids, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are on known. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydra tized and smooth horny layer and limited in time.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the horn layer is essentially based on the coverage (occlusion) of the treated skin districts. The ointment or cream is, so to speak, a (second) artificial barrier that to prevent the loss of water of the skin. Accordingly, this physical Barrier - for example, with cleaning agents - are removed again, causing the original, impaired state is achieved again. In addition, the Reduce skin care effect with regular treatment. After discontinuing the Product application quickly returns the skin to the pre-treatment condition start back. For certain products, the condition of the skin deteriorates Circumstances even temporarily. A sustainable product effect is usually so not achieved or only to a limited extent.

The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier function of the skin is even in a selective barrier damage that should allow active ingredients in or through the skin into the body. A disturbed appearance of the Skin is partially accepted as a side effect in part.

The effect of nourishing cleansing products is essentially efficiencies Regenerating with sebum lipid-like substances. By the simultaneous reduction tion of the surfactant content of such preparations can be the damage to the horny layer continue to limit the barrier.

The prior art, however, lacks preparations which the Barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer positively influence and the  physico-chemical properties of the horny layer and in particular the lamellae strengthen or even restore from intercellular lipids.

The object of the present invention was thus to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art remove. In particular, skin-care preparations and preparations should be used for Rei skin are provided, showing the barrier properties of the skin maintain or restore, especially when the natural regeneration of the skin not enough. They are also intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage Skin dehydration, such as fissures or inflammatory or allergic pro or atopic dermatitis, be suitable. Object of the present invention It has also been to provide stable skin care cosmetic and / or dermatological agents which protect the skin from environmental influences such as sun and wind. in the In particular, the effect of the preparations should be physiological, fast and sustained.

These objects are achieved surprisingly and unforeseeably for the person skilled in the art
the use of at least one glycerol and / or glycol ester of aliphatic, ver branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 20 to 40 carbon atoms in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for strengthening the barrier function of the skin.

Under "barrier strengthening" or "strengthening the barrier function of the skin" is in the sense of in particular the following effect: The invention used agents interact with the lipids of the horny layer in such a way that the An Order of these lipids in the horny layer at the molecular level is improved. this leads to to the fact that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences and against the loss of endogenous substances is strengthened or restored.

The preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the skilled person that the erfindungsge MAESSEN preparations

• - better maintain or restore the barrier properties of the skin,
• - better counteract skin dehydration,
• - Act better against aging skin and
• - Protect the skin better from environmental influences

as the preparations of the prior art.

The compounds to be used according to the invention are esters of glycol (HOCH ₂ CH ₂ OH) and of glycerol

Advantageous to use in the context of the present invention are the mono- and diesters of the glycol as well as the mono-, di- and triesters of glycerol.

It is particularly advantageous to use the glycerol esters of behenic acid (CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ COOH), in particular glyceryl monobehenate, which is characterized by the following structural formula

and the Glyceryltribehenat (also: Tribehenin), which, for example, under the trade Compritol 888 is available from Gattefossé.

Also advantageously used are glyceryl and / or glycol esters of lignoceric acid (CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₂ COOH), cerotic acid (CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₄ COOH) and / or montanic acid (CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₆ COOH) , Preferably also esters of arachidonic acid

used, in particular monoesters of arachidonic acid.

Very particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are glycol esters of montanic acid (CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₆ COOH) to use. An advantageous to use glycol montanate is z. B. in a mixture with Butylenglykolmontanat under the trade name Hoechst Wax E available from Clariant.

The glyceryl and / or glycol esters can be advantageous either individually or as a mixture be used. Advantageously used mixtures of glyceryl esters of acids  with 24 to 34 carbon atoms are, for example, under the trade name Hostalub® WE available from Clariant.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations or formu Alloys can be composed as usual and for treatment, care and the cleansing of the skin and / or the hair and as a make-up product in the decorative Cosmetics serve. Accordingly, they can, depending on their structure, for example can be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, Day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to the invention according to preparations as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations use. The preparations according to the invention contain, for. From 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 1% by weight, but in particular from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations of the inventive Agents.

Also favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are used in the Form of a sunscreen. Preferably, these contain next to one or more active substances according to the invention at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic Pigment.

But it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, such cosmetic and dermatological preparations the main purpose of which is not the Protection from sunlight, but still a content of UV-protective substances contain. So z. B. in day creams usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can kos Contain metic excipients, such as those commonly used in such preparations be, for. As preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent the Foaming, dyes, pigments having a coloring effect, thickening agents, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.  

The quantities of cosmetic, dermatological or Medical carriers and perfume may vary depending on the type of each Products are easily detected by the expert by simple trial and error.

Preparations for the treatment and care of the skin are particularly preferred.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological according to the invention Preparations in the usual way for cosmetics on the skin and / or hair in out ample amount applied.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be used in various ways forms are available. So they can z. B. a solution, an anhydrous preparation, a Water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water emulsion or microemulsion (O / W), a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or even an aerosol. It is also advantageous to present the active compounds according to the invention in encapsulated form, for. B. in collagen matrices and other common encapsulating materials, e.g. B. as Cellulosever encapsulated in gelatin, wax matrices or liposomally encapsulated.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the erfindungsge Mäß agents in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and to insert the hair.

In particular, the inventive cosmetic and dermatological Zube preparations also contain antioxidants. According to the invention as a cheap antioxidant All suitable for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications ge common antioxidants are used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg, urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof ( eg dihydro-sulphonic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and also Sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthioni sulfones, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg. Pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid, and their derivatives , α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxy anisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the present invention suitable Deriva te (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these genann th drugs.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the inventions The preparations according to the invention are preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, especially be preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s) is present Partly, their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the one or more Antioxidants represent advantageous, their respective concentrations from the field from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention, without her zuschränken. The numerical values in the examples are by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.  

example recipes 1. lecithin fluid

Wt .-% lecithin 5.00 Tribehenin 0.50 cetearyl 1.00 glycerin 3.00 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

2. hydrodispersion gel

Wt .-% stearyl 2.00 behenyl 2.00 Ceramide 3 0.20 Glycerylarachidonat 0.50 Carbopol 0.30 hydroxyethyl 0.40 glycerin 3.00 panthenol 1.00 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 3.00 isopropyl palmitate 3.00 Shea butter 2.00 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

3. Light gel

Wt .-% sucrose stearate 3.00 cetearyl 2.00 glyceryl 1.00 Carbopol 0.50 glycerin 3.00 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

4. O / W cream

Wt .-% sucrose stearate 4.00 sucrose laurate 2.00 glyceryl 2.00 Glyceryllignocerat 0.50 cetearyl 3.00 glycerin 3.00 Dimethicone 2.00 mineral oil 5.00 isopropyl palmitate 3.00 Sunflower oil 3.00 Hydrogenated coconut fatty acid glycerides 2.50 Licorice root extract 2.00 Carbomer 0.20 45% NaOH 0.10 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

5. O / W lotion

Wt .-% stearic acid 1.50 sorbitan 0.50 Glycerylcerotinat 0.50 Myristylalkokol 1.00 glycerol 0.50 Paraffin oil, subliquidum 10.00 Dimethicone 1.00 octyldodecanol 2.00 Hydrogenated coconut fatty acid glycerides 0.50 Carbomer 0.10 serine 0.50 glycerin 5.00 tocopherol 0.50 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

6. W / O lotion

Wt .-% PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 4.00 Glykollignocerat 0.05 glyceryltribehenate 1.00 beeswax 3.00 vaseline 4.00 ozokerite 4.00 Paraffin oil, subliquidum 10.00 glycerin 5.00 Octyl methoxycinnamate 2.50 Methylbenzylidene camphor 2.50 tocopherol 1.00 Magnesium sulfate 7H ₂ O 0.70 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

7. W / O cream

Wt .-% PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 4.00 Wool alcohol 1.50 glyceryltribehenate 0.50 glycol montanate 0.25 vaseline 9.00 ozokerite 4.00 Paraffin oil, subliquidum 10.00 urea 10.00 Magnesium sulfate 7H ₂ O 0.70 lactic acid 0.30 sodium lactate 2.50 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

8. Silicone emulsion

Wt .-% Dimethicone Copolyol 2.00 Cylomethicone 5.00 Dimethicone 3.00 Paraffin oil, subliquidum. 8.00 Wheat germ oil 4.00 Glycol / butylene glycol 0.50 glycerin 10.00 sodium chloride 1.00 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

9. ointment

Wt .-% vaseline 36,00 ceresin 10.00 zinc oxide 4.00 Wheat germ oil 20.00 glyceryl 2.00 Glycerylarachidonat 0.20 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. paraffin oil ad 100

10. Skin oil

Wt .-% cetyl palmitate 3.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.00 polyisobutene 10.00 squalane 2.00 glyceryl 2.00 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. paraffin oil ad 100

11. bath oil

Wt .-% paraffin oil 20.00 PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil 5.00 Hostalub WE (Glyceryl esters of acids with 24 to 34 carbon atoms) 0.50 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. soybean oil ad 100

12. Lip balm

Wt .-% Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 25,00 octyldodecanol 25,00 Ceramide 3 0.50 glyceryl 1.00 beeswax 20.00 cetyl palmitate 8.00 Jojoba oil 5.00 Carnauba wax 4.00 tocopherol 0.75 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. squalane ad 100

13. Emulsion lip balm

Wt .-% Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 30.00 octyldodecanol 20.00 Polyglyceryl-3 dioleate 3.50 beeswax 10.00 Glycol / butylene glycol 1.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 5.00 Jojoba oil 5.00 Carnauba wax 2.00 tocopherol 0.75 water 5.00 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. squalane ad 100

14. Lipstick

Wt .-% Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 22.00 octyldodecanol 22.00 Glycerylarachidonat 0.50 Bienenwachshydrolysat 5.00 beeswax 15.00 cetyl palmitate 2.00 Jojoba oil 5.00 Carnauba wax 2.00 tocopherol 0.75 Color pigments, lakes, titanium dioxide q, s. Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q, s. squalane ad 100

15. Emulsion Makeup

Wt .-% sorbitan 1.50 sorbitan 1.00 glycerol 1.00 glyceryl 1.00 glyceryl 1.00 Paraffin oil, subliquidum 7.00 octyldodecanol 7.00 Hydrogenated coconut fatty acid glycerides 4.00 Octyl methoxycinnamate 2.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 Carbomer 0.10 glycerin 5.00 1,3 butylene glycol 2.00 tocopherol 1.00 Starch Sodium Octenylsuccinate (Amiogum®, American Maize Products Company / CERSTAR) 2.50 magnesium silicate 1.00 mica 1.00 iron oxides 1.00 Titanium dioxide 2.50 talc 5.00 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

16. hair care products

Wt .-% TEA - Cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen 30.00 monoethanolamine 25,00 almond oil 2.00 PEG-25 soybean oil 2.00 glyceryltribehenate 1.00 Sodium chloride 1.00 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

17. Care shampoo

Wt .-% sodium lauryl sulfate 34,00 disodium 6.00 cocoamidopropyl 10.00 Glycerylarachidonat 0.20 glycol distearate 5.00 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

18. Pump spray

Wt .-% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 2.00 glycerin 1.00 Glyceryllignocerat 0.20 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

19. Roll-on emulsion

Wt .-% Tricetearethphosphat 0.30 octyldodecanol 2.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.00 C _10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.15 Glykolcerotinat 0.05 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, perfume, dyes q.s. water ad 100

Claims (3)

1. Use of at least one glycerol and / or glycol ester aliphatic, ver branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 20 to 40 carbon atoms in cosmetic or dermatological preparations Strengthening the barrier function of the skin. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the one or more used Glycerol and / or glycol esters are selected from the group of esters of the bees acid, lignoceric acid, cerotic acid, montanic acid and / or arachidon acid. 3. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of one or more glycerol and / or glycol esters in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the range 0.001 to 10 Wt .-%, preferably 0.01 wt .-% to 1 wt .-%, but in particular 0.1 wt .-% to 0.5 % By weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.