DE19540830A1 - Cosmetic preparations - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns novel cosmetic agents containing sulphosuccinates of formula (I), in which R<1> stands for a behenyl group, R<2> stands for R<1> or Mg, and m and n, independently of each other, are 0 or numbers from 1 to 10. The preparations are characterized by a high foaming capacity and particularly good tolerance by the mucous membranes.

Description

Field of the Invention

The invention relates to cosmetic agents containing selected sulfosuccinates and their use in the manufacture of cosmetic products.

State of the art

Sulfosuccinates are anionic surfactants that, in addition to excellent application technology properties also have a particularly high ecotoxicological compatibility feature. For these reasons, sulfosuccinates are widely used today for their manufacture development of hand dishwashing detergents and in particular cosmetic products for Foam power and skin tolerance are two crucial parameters. Nonetheless Despite this, there is a constant need in the market for products with further improvements Properties and, in particular, increased dermatological compatibility, in order to Customers who are particularly prone to skin and mucous membrane irritation are satisfied can.

Accordingly, the object of the invention was to create new cosmetic compositions to provide settlements based on sulfosuccinates, which are at least consistently good foaming power thanks to a significantly improved dermatological ver mark inertia.  

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing sulfosuccinates of the formula (I),

in which R¹ represents a behenyl radical, R² represents R¹ or Mg, and m and n independently of one another stands for 0 or numbers from 1 to 10.

Surprisingly, it was found that sulfosuccinate magnesium salts based on Be henyl alcohols or behenyl alcohol ethoxylates not only have a particularly strong one Foaming power, but at the same time also has a very high tolerance to the mucous membrane feature. These two properties make the products suitable for a variety of uses of cosmetic products interesting.

Sulfosuccinates

Sulfosuccinates, which are also referred to as sulfosuccinic acid esters, are known anionic surfactants, which according to the relevant methods of preparative organic Chemistry can be obtained. Malein is usually used for their production acid, but preferably maleic anhydride, which in the first step with optionally ethoxylated primary alcohols are esterified. At this point, by variation the amount of alcohol and temperature the mono / diester ratio can be set. in the second step is the addition of bisulfite, usually in the solvent Methanol is carried out. Recent reviews of the manufacture and use of Sulfosuccinates are for example from T. Schoenberg in Cosm. Toil. 104, 105 (1989), J.A. Milne in R Soc. Chem. (Ind. Appl. Surf.II) 77, 77 (1990) and W. Hreczuch et al. in J. At the. Oil. Chem. Soc. 70, 707 (1993).

Typical examples are sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dibehenyl esters in the form of their Magnesium salts; the behenyl alcohol with an average of 1 to 10 and preferred 1 to 5 moles of ethylene oxide must be etherified, both conventional and  preferably have a narrow homolog distribution. May be mentioned as examples Di-n-behenyl sulfosuccinate and monobehenyl + 3EO sulfosuccinate in the form of their mag sodium salts.

Surfactants

The preparations according to the invention can be further anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or contain amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, oils finsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fat acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, Monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether), sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether car bonic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, Acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can be a conventional, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution.

Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ether, fatty acid polyglycol ester, fatty acid amide polyglycol ether, fetminpolygly colethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, alkyl oligoglucosides, Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolyzates (especially vegetable products on Wei zen basis), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. Like this If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional nelle, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution.

Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and Ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples for amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino propionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. With regard to the structure and manufacture of these substances, see relevant reviews  for example J.Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Ber lin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J.Falbe (ed.), "KataWsatoren, Tenside und Mineralöladditive", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217. Synergistic effects with regard based on base foam, foam resistance - even in the presence of water hardness and sebum - and tolerance to the mucous membrane are achieved if the behenyl sulfosuccinate mag sodium salts with nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, preferably alkyl oligo glucosides, fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, vegetable protein hydrolyzates and / or betaines mixes, the weight ratio 10:90 to 90:10, preferably 25:75 to 75:25 and in particular can be 40:60 to 60:40. Cosmetic preparations with special ders advantageous mucous membrane tolerance are otherwise obtained if none other anionic surfactants are included; for the production of, for example Mixtures of this type are therefore preferred for baby shampoos.

Industrial applicability

The preparations according to the invention are notable for high foaming power and a particularly advantageous tolerance to the mucous membrane. Another subject of the He The invention therefore relates to the use of the sulfosuccinates mentioned at the outset for the preparation of cosmetic preparations in which they are present in amounts of 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 35 % By weight, based on the composition, may be present. The solids content of these agents is also usually 5 to 55% by weight and preferably 15 to 35% by weight.

Cosmetic preparations

The preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions or bubble baths, can be used as further auxiliaries and additives, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, thickeners medium, cation polymers, silicone compounds, biogenic agents, film formers, preserves contain agents, colors and fragrances. The share of sulfosuccinates in the cosmetic products, usually as more or less dilute aqueous solutions 1 to 55, preferably 5 to 35% by weight, based on the preparations, can be present. be.  

As emulsifiers or co-emulsifiers, nonionic, ampholytic and / or zwitterionic surfactant compounds are used, which are characterized by a lipophilic, preferably linear alkyl or alkenyl group and at least one hydrophilic Award group. This hydrophilic group can be either an ionogenic or a be a non-ionic group. Non-ionic emulsifiers contain as a hydrophilic group z. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and Polyglycol ether group.

Preferred agents are those which contain nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups as O / W emulsifiers: (a1) addition products of 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms , on fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group; (a2) C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol; (a3) glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products; (a4) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs and (a5) addition products of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil; (a6) polyol and in particular polyglycerol esters such. B. polyglycerol polyricinoleate or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable. The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters, and sorbitan mono- and diesters with fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE-PS 20 24 051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations. C _8/18 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use as surface-active substances are, for example, from US 3,839,318, US 3,707,535, US 3,547,828, DE-OS 19 43 689, DE-OS 20 36 472 and DE-A1 30 01 064 and EP-A 0 077 167. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products. Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylate methyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO₃H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 up to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acylsarcosine.

Possible W / O emulsifiers are: (b1) adducts of 2 to 15 mol of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil; (b2) _{partial esters} based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C _12/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol) and polyglucosides (e.g. Cellulose); (b3) trialkyl phosphates; (b4) wool wax alcohols; (b5) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives, (b6) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE PS 11 65 574 and (b7) polyalkylene glycols.

Substances such as polyethoxylated lanolin can be used as superfatting agents derivatives, lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter also serving as foam stabilizers. Ge  suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, Guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tylosen, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, Polyacrylates, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as fettal alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and Electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers such. B. Luviquat® (BASF AG, Ludwigshafen / FRG), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen poly peptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lame quat®L, Grünau GmbH), polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as B. Amido methicone or Dow Corning, Dow Corning Co./US, copolymers of adipic acid and Dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetrimamine (Cartaretine®, Sandoz / CH), polyamino polyamides such as B. described in FR-A 22 52 840 and its cross-linked water-soluble Polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, given if microcrystalline distributed, cationic guar gum such. B. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese / US, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as B. Mirapol® A- 15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol / US.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methyl phenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine and / or alkyl modified silicone compounds. Are among biogenic agents for example to understand plant extracts and vitamin complexes. Common Film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, Polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and the like Links. Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, Formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid. Come as pearlescent for example glycol distearic acid esters such as ethylene glycol distearate, but also fatty acid monoglycol ester. Suitable dyes are those suitable for cosmetic purposes and approved substances, such as those used in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" by the Dye Commission of the Deutsche Forschungsge meinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. This  Dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight the entire mixture.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight. based on the mean - amount.

Examples

The foaming power was determined according to the Ross Miles Test (DIN 53 902, Part II) at one Temperature of 20 ° C and a water hardness of 16 ° d determined. The amount of the Surfactants was 1 g active substance / l. The assessment of dermatological tolerance was performed on the chorionallantoic membrane of the incubated chicken egg (HET-CAM), the one Model for the tolerance of a substance to the eye mucosa. That was determined Cytotoxicity relative to a comparative product of the trade. Example formulations 1 to 4 are according to the invention, the sample formulations V1 to V4 are used for comparison. The Together The formulation of the formulations as well as cytotoxicity and foam levels are shown in Table 1 quantitative (percentages as% by weight).

Table 1

Sample formulations and application properties

Claims (4)

1. Cosmetic preparations containing sulfosuccinates of the formula (I) in which R¹ is a behenyl radical, R² is R¹ or Mg and m and n independently of one another are 0 or numbers from 1 to 10. 2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they are tensi dische constituents alkyl oligoglucoside, fatty acid-N-alkyl glucamide, vegetable pro include hydrolyzates and / or betaines. 3. Preparations according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that they are the Sulfosuccinates of the formula (I) in amounts of 1 to 55% by weight, based on the preparation services - included. 4. Use of sulfosuccinates according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic Preparations.