DE19524097A1 - Cosmetic products - Google Patents

Abstract

Novel cosmetic products are proposed, containing the following: (a1) alkyl- and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides; and/or (a2) fatty acid-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkyl amides; and (b) hydrophobised oligopeptides, the weight ratio of (a) to (b) being between 99.5 : 0.5 and 98 : 2. These products are characterised by advantageous viscosity, synergistically improved foaming characteristics and a pleasant feel on the skin.

Description

Field of the Invention

The invention relates to cosmetic products containing selected sugar surfactants, to which small amounts of hydro added phobized oligopeptides.

State of the art

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and preferably alkyl oligoglucoside simulate nonionic surfactants based growing raw materials, which are excellent because of their technical properties and their special eco toxicological tolerance increase for manufacturing Surface active agents are gaining in importance. Similar thing applies to another group of sugar surfactants, the fatty acid re-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides, especially the fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides.

The sugar surfactants mentioned are non-ionic in nature, behave like anionic surfactants in many ways. For example, they have a strong foam capacity gene, but are sen against water hardness and fat load sen  sitiv. In addition, the sugar surfactants mentioned with under thicken and not always satisfied have a skin feeling. With regard to the developments However, hair and personal care products are made in Market a need for products such as hair shampoos or shower gels, both in hard water as well as in the presence of body fat through a strong and stable foam, an advantageous high viscosity have and also a pleasantly soft skin feel teln.

A large number are available from the prior art literature of combinations of the sugar surfactants mentioned, primarily of alkyl oligoglucosides with other surfactants (e.g. EP-B 0070074). An overview of B.Fabry can be found in Skin Care Forum, May (1995).

Subject of the international patent application WO 91/14761 (Henkel) are liquid personal cleansers containing Mixtures of alkyl oligoglucosides and protein breakdown pro products and, if necessary, betaine surfactants. From the WO 91/05802 (Henkel) are also known hair treatment agents, the vegetable protein hydrolyzates in addition to alkyl oligoglucosides and contain cationic surfactants of the esterquat type. The problem described above, the simultaneous improvement of foaming power, viscosity and skin feel ver however, do not like the teachings of this prior art to solve satisfactorily.

The object of the present invention thus has stood, cosmetic products preferably based on alkyl  oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-alkylglucamides for ver to provide, which is characterized by an improved foaming have a higher foam stability, especially in hard water and in the presence of body fat, have an advantageous high viscosity and also a convey a pleasantly soft feeling on the skin. Another job the invention has ultimately been highly effective To develop additives that already have these properties at Zu Develop a set of very small quantities.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing

• (a1) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and / or
• (a2) fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides and
• (b) hydrophobized oligopeptides

in the weight ratio (a): (b) from 99.5: 0.5 to 98: 2 and preferably 99: 1 to 98: 2.

Surprisingly, it was found that the addition defines ter, very small amounts of hydrophobized oligopeptides Viscosity, skin feel and especially foaming power and foam stability of sugar surfactants of the alkyloli type goglucoside and fatty acid N-alkylglucamide significantly ver can improve.  

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoalycosides

Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides are known substances which follow the formula (I)

R¹O- [G] _p (I)

in R¹ for an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical with 4 to 22nd Carbon atoms, G for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 Koh lenstoffatomen and p stands for numbers from 1 to 10, and the according to the relevant procedures of preparative organic Chemistry can be obtained. Representing the order extensive literature is here on the writings EP-A 0301298 and WO 90/03977.

The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can differ from Al cans or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferred way to derive the glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or Alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl olives goglucoside.

The index number p in the general formula (I) gives the oli Degree of gomerization (DP degree), d. H. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. Whilst p is always an integer in a given connection must be and assume here the values p = 1 to 6 is the value p for a particular alkyl oligoglycoside an analytically calculated quantity, most of the time represents a fractional number. Preferably alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with a medium oligo Degree of merit p used from 1.1 to 3.0. From use  From an nutritional point of view, such alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides preferred, their degree of oligomerization is smaller is 1.7 and is in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.

The alkyl or alkenyl radical R 1 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, capric alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C₈-C₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation of technical C₈-C₁ Kok coconut fatty alcohol by distillation and can be contaminated with a proportion of less than 6% by weight of C₁₂ alcohol and also Alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3).

The alkyl or alkenyl group R¹ can also be derived from primary alcohols with 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petro selinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C _12/14 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.

Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides

Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides follow the formula (II),

in the R²CO for an aliphatic acyl radical with 6 to 22 Carbon atoms, R³ for hydrogen, an alkyl or Hydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] for a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups.

The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are are known substances, usually through reductive Amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, a Alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a Fatty acid chloride can be obtained. With regard to the Processes for their production are based on the US patents US 1985424, US 2016962 and US 2703798 and the International Patent application WO 92/06984 referenced. An overview of this topic by H. Kelkenberg can be found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988).

The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyal is preferably derived kylamides of reducing sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially from glucose. The preferred Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acids  re-N-alkylglucaides as represented by the formula (III) as are given:

The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkyl amides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (III) in which R³ is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R²CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, Isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petrose linic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides of the formula (III) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C _12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

Hydrophobicized oligopeptides

For example, Ver esterification products of vegetable protein hydrolyzates with an average molecular weight of 100 to 100,000  Dalton with alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms in question. Typical examples are esters of degradation products from tieri proteins or vegetable proteins, for example collagen, Elastin or keratin and preferably almond and potato protein and especially wheat and soy protein with metha nol or ethanol. The average molecular weight of the Oligopeptides is preferably 1,000 to 25,000 daltons, the degree of esterification at 5 to 95, preferably 10 to 75 and especially 20 to 50% of theory. Is particularly preferred the use of ethyl esters based on soy or wheat pro hydrolyzates of average molecular weight from 1,000 to 25,000 daltons and a degree of esterification of 30 up to 50% of theory.

A second group of suitable hydrophobized oligopepti they provide reaction products of polyaspartic acids Fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms or amines, preferably primary and / or secondary amines with 1 to 22 and in particular 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Polyaspara Gic acids are well-known substances, which after the incl current methods of preparative organic chemistry can be. In this context, for example German patent applications DE-A1 43 05 368, DE-A1 43 10 503, DE-A1 43 19 044, DE-A1 43 22 410 (Bayer) and DE-A1 43 22 191 (BASF). The polyaspartic acids, usually also an average molecular weight in the range from 100 to 100,000 and preferably 1,000 to 25,000 Daltons can have in a manner known per se with fatty alcohol get esterified or amidated fatty amines. Suitable Fatty alcohols are, for example, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol hol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, iso  tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleylal alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, Elai dyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenylal alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol and their technical mi which z. B. in the high-pressure hydrogenation of techni methyl esters based on fats and oils or alde hyden from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction tion in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols attack. Technical fatty alcohols with 12 to 18 carbon atoms such as coconut, palm, palm core or tallow fatty alcohol. Me. Come as suitable amines thylamine, dimethylamine, ethylamine, diethylamine, propylamine, Dipropylamine, butylamine, dibutylamine, methylethylamine, ethyl propylamine, dimethylhalopropylamine, laurylamine and in particular Aminoethylmorpholin considered. The esterification or Degree of amidation of the polyaspartic acid derivatives can in Be range from 5 to 95, preferably 10 to 75 and in particular 20 to 50% of theory lie.

Industrial applicability

The addition of the hydrophobized oligopeptides to the selected ones ten sugar surfactants leads to the cessation of an advantageous high viscosity, a synergistic improvement in Ba sis foam and foam resistance. In addition, the Agents according to the invention have a pleasant feeling on the skin.  

Cosmetic products

The agents according to the invention can be used with the others Contain ingredients compatible surfactants. Typical case Games are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid thionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, fatty acid aspartates, ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido betaine, protein hydrolyzates and / or protein fatty acid condensers sate.

The cosmetic products, such as hair shampoos, Hair lotions or bubble baths can be used as additional aids and Additives emulsifiers, superfatting agents, thickeners medium, cation polymers, silicone compounds biogenic action substances, film formers, preservatives, colors and fragrances substances included.

Both known W / O- and O / W- come as emulsifiers Emulsifiers such as hardened and ethoxylated Castor oil, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyglycerol polyrici noleates or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate in question.

Substances such as, for example, can be used as superfatting agents polyethoxylated lanolin derivatives, lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides ver be used, the latter at the same time as foam stabilizers serve.

Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccha ride, especially xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar,  Alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxy ethyl cellulose, also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol colmono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, polyvi nyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as wise fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution lung or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationi cellulose derivatives, cationic starch, copolymers of Diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyr rolidone vinylimidazole polymers such as B. LUVICUAT (BASF AG, Ludwidshafts / FRG), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as Lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lame quat® L, Grünau GmbH), polyethyleneimine, cationic sili conpolymers such as B. Amidomethicone or DOW CORNING 929, Dow Corning Co./US, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylamino hydroxypropyldiethylenetrimamine (CARTARETINE®, Sandoz / CH), Polyaminopolyamides such as B. described in FR-A 2252840 and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic Chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, cationic guar Gum such as B. JAGUAR® C-B-S, JAGUAR® C-17, JAGUAR® C-16 der Celanese / US, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such. B. MIRAPOL® A-15, MIRAPOL® AD-1, MIRAPOL® AZ-1 from Mira nol / US.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpo lysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones  as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, flu or- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds.

Among the biogenic active substances are, for example, plant ex to understand tracts and vitamin complexes.

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, mi crocrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, Po polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, Collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds fertilize.

Phenoxy, for example, are suitable as preservatives ethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbine acid.

As a pearlescent agent, for example, glycol distearin acid esters such as ethylene glycol distearate, but also fatty acid monoglycol ester.

Suitable dyes are those suitable for cosmetic purposes and approved substances, such as those used in for example in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" of Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, published by Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 are put together. These dyes are commonly used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the whole mixture, used.  

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40 wt .-% - based on the means - be carry.

Examples I. Surfactants used

A1) C _8/16 alkyl oligoglucoside (Plantaren® 2000)

• A2) Coconut fatty acid N-methylglucamide
• B1) Wheat protein hydrolyzate ethyl ester (Gluadin® AE)
• B2) reaction product of polyaspartic acid (molar mass approx. 20,000 with aminoethylmorpholine
• B3) reaction product of polyaspartic acid (molar mass approx. 2,000) with aminoethylmorpholine

If trade names are mentioned, they are ver purchase products from Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG.  

II. Foaming power

The foaming power was determined according to the whipped foam method DIN 53 902 determines (1 g AS / l, 15 ° d, 0.1 g sebum, 20 ° C). Be the base foam and the foam height were correct after 20 min. The skin feeling was subjective from a panel determined from 6 experienced subjects. (+) Stands for " approve soft "and (-) for" dull and dry ". The results Table 1 summarizes:

Table 1

Foaming power and skin feeling

Claims (6)

1. Containing cosmetic products

• (a1) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and / or
• (a2) fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides and
• (b) hydrophobized oligopeptides

in the weight ratio (a): (b) from 99.5: 0.5 to 98. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the formula (I), R¹O- [G] _p (I) in the R¹ for an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms , G stands for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p stands for numbers from 1 to 10. 3. Composition according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that they contain fatty acid-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides of the formula (II), in which R²CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R³ is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups . 4. Means according to claims 1 to 3, characterized net that they esterify as hydrophobized oligopeptides products of vegetable protein hydrolyzates with an average molecular weight of 100 to 100,000 Daltons with 1 to 4 carbon alcohols contain atoms. 5. Composition according to claims 1 to 3, characterized net that they are implemented as hydrophobic oligopeptides products Polyaspartic acids with fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms or amines with 1 to 22 carbons contain atoms.