DE102005026002A1 - Cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous aniseed extract and one or more polymeric thickening agents selected from the group of cellulose derivatives - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic preparations containing DOLLAR A (i) an aqueous aniseed extract and DOLLAR A (ii) at least one polymeric thickener selected from the group of cellulose derivatives.

Description

The The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with a Content of an aqueous aniseed extract and one or more polymeric thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives and their use on the Areas of cosmetic and pharmaceutical dermatology.

The outermost layer the epidermis, the stratum corneum (horny layer), is considered important Barrier layer of particular importance i.a. for protection against environmental influences and Dehydration. The horny layer is constantly worn in contact with the environment and therefore has to be renewed continuously.

One The skin model, which is widely used by experts today, summarizes the stratum corneum as a two-component system, similar to one Brick Wall (Brick Mortar Model), on. In this model, the corneocytes (horny cells) correspond to the Bricks, the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.

Except her Barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the skin smoothness. Unlike the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, are the epidermal lipids over the entire horny layer distributed.

The extremely complex Interaction of moisture-binding substances and lipids the upper layers of the skin is for the regulation of skin moisture very important. Therefore, cosmetics contain usually, in addition to balanced lipid blends and water, water-binding Substances. These include u.a. Polyols such as glycerol, sorbitol and xylitol, ethoxylated polyols as well hydrolyzed proteins. Further application find in the natural Humidity factor (so-called Natural Moisturizing Factor = NMF) contained substances, e.g. Urea, carbohydrates (eg Glucose) and amino acids (eg serine). These substances are therefore for the care performance of a cosmetic product of particular importance, in particular also due to their relatively good skin and mucous membrane compatibility.

However, it was unresolved the problem that when incorporating aqueous aniseed extracts in O / W emulsions and hydrodispersions due to the natural Salt content of the extracts the emulsion stability and viscosity of the emulsions was greatly reduced. This problem settled with the otherwise in cosmetic Emulsions used acrylate polymers (carbomers) not in appropriate Remedy the extent.

• (i) einen wässrigen Anisfruchtextrakt und
• (ii) mindestens ein polymeres Verdickungsmittel gewählt aus der Gruppe der Cellulosederivate

die Nachteile des Standes der Technik beseitigen.After all this, it was surprising and unpredictable that cosmetic preparations containing

• (i) an aqueous aniseed extract and
• (ii) at least one polymeric thickener selected from the group of cellulose derivatives

eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art.

Further was surprising that the use of thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives to increase stability cosmetic preparations the disadvantages of the prior art would help.

• – besser als feuchtigkeitsspendendes Agens wirken
• – besser gegen Austrocknung durch Emulgatoren und Coemulgatoren schützt
• – besser die Barriereleistung der Haut steigern
• – besser die Haut vor exogenen Noxen schützt
• – besser gegen die Symptome der sensiblen Haut schützt
• – besser die Hautrauhigkeit reduziert
• – besser gegen die Hautalterung wirken

als die Wirkstoffe, Wirkstoffkombinationen und Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.Furthermore, it was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the active ingredient combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing them

• - act better as a moisturizing agent
• - better protects against dehydration by emulsifiers and Coemulgatoren
• - better increase the barrier performance of the skin
• - better protects the skin from exogenous pollutants
• - better protects against the symptoms of sensitive skin
• - better reduces skin roughness
• - work better against aging skin

as the active ingredients, drug combinations and preparations of the prior art.

It is according to the invention in particular advantageous, an aqueous Aniseed fruit extract (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), which is rich inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, especially with potassium ions and with butylene glycol 0.36% and parabens 0.14% is conserved and solubilized by enzymatic hydrolysis in water Anise fruits available is, the ratio from raw material to extract is about ½ and under the trade name Bioxilift is available from SILAB, St. Viance, France

According to the invention advantageous

Strukturformel I in der R ein Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe darstellen kann.Thickeners selected according to the invention from the group of cellulose derivatives are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula

Structural formula I in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Especially advantageous in the context of the present invention are in general also referred to as methylcelluloses cellulose mixed ethers, which in addition to a dominating content of methyl additionally 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. Especially preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example the under the trade name Methocel E4M at the Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethylcellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH ₂ -COONa.

Especially it is also preferred under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS at Aqualon available, .hydrophob modified Hydroxyethyl cellulose.

Further Cellulose derivatives according to the invention are the hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose (Elfacos CD 481 Akzo Nobel)

cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention included - related on the total weight of the preparations - advantageously 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-% of one or more acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonic acid polymers.

It is advantageous according to the invention the molar ratio from an aqueous Aniseed extract selected from one or more thickening agents the group of cellulose derivatives ranging from 100: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 50: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably 20 : 1 to 1: 20 to choose.

Corresponding the use according to the invention the preparations are particularly advantageously characterized that one's watery Aniseed extract in concentrations of 0.01-10.00% by weight, preferably 0.05-5.00% by weight, more preferably 0.1-3.00 Wt .-%, respectively based on the total weight of the composition.

cosmetic Preparations in which the aqueous aniseed extract in concentrations of 0.01-10.00 Wt .-%, preferably 0.05-5.00 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1-3.00 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, present, are also advantageous according to the invention.

Advantageous are also cosmetic preparations in which the thickener (s), chosen out the group of cellulose derivatives in concentrations of 0.01-10.00% by weight, preferably 0.05-5.00% by weight, more preferably 0.1-3.00 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, present or present

It is also advantageous, the preparations according to the present Invention usual Add antioxidants. According to the invention can as favorable Antioxidants all for kosme tables and / or dermatological applications suitable or common Antioxidants are used.

The Amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, especially 1-10 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

preferred Antioxidants are vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives as well as vitamin A and its derivatives.

Provided Vitamin E and / or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the field from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

Provided Vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives the one or more antioxidants are advantageous, their respective Concentrations from the range of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

The cosmetic according to the invention Preparations can contain cosmetic excipients, such as those commonly used in such preparations can be used, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, antioxidants, perfumes, Means for preventing foaming, Dyes, pigments that are a coloring Have thickening agents, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, Fats, oils, Waxes or other usual Ingredients of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

advantageous Preservatives according to the present invention are, for example Iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those sold under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB by Jan Dekker), parabens (i.e., p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, Ethanol, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, benzoic acid and such more.

• – Wasser oder wässrige Lösungen;
• – Öle, wie Caprylic/Capric-Triglycerid Fettsäureether wie Dicaprylylether, Kohlensäureester wie Dicaprylylcarbonat, sowie pflanzliche Triglyceride wie Sonnenblumenöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkernöl; Cyclometicone, Dimeticone, C12-15-Alkylbenzoat, Octyldodecanol, Squalan, Jojobaöl- Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren; insbesondere Cetylpalmitat, Methylpalmitat
• – Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Hexandiol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether, Ethylhexylglycerin, Methylpropandiol und analoge Produkte.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation is a solution or lotion, the solvent used may be:

• - water or aqueous solutions;
• Oils such as caprylic / capric triglyceride fatty acid ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonic acid esters such as dicaprylyl carbonate, as well as vegetable triglycerides such as sunflower oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil; Cyclomethetic, Dimeticone, C12-15-alkyl benzoate, octyldodecanol, squalane, jojoba oil fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with low C-number alcohols, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with Alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids; especially cetyl palmitate, methyl palmitate
• Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, hexanediol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether, ethylhexyl glycerol , Methylpropanediol and analog products.

Especially Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. at alcoholic solvents Water can be another ingredient.

cosmetic Preparations within the meaning of the present invention may also as gels, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and usually used solvents, preferably water, still organic and / or inorganic thickeners contain. Furthermore, these thickeners are part of cosmetic Emulsions.

Advantageous thickeners for such preparations are, for example, copolymers of C _10-30 -alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". Particularly advantageous are the Pemulen ^® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from. Goodrich (Noveon).

Also Carbopols are advantageous gelling agents for such preparations. Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Advantageous Carbopo le are, for example, the types 980, 981, 984th 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984, as well as the ETD types 2001, 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer (trade name Stabileze 06), polyglyceryl methacrylate as well as polyacrylamide. Further advantageous gelling agent for such Preparations are xanthan gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carrageenan, Strength and starch derivatives, hyaluronic acid Locust bean gum, aluminum silicates and acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonic acids such as for example, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer (Aristoflex AVC, Clariant)

The Thickener is in the gel, dispersion or emulsion e.g. in an amount between 0.01 and 5 wt .-%, preferably between 0.1 and 2 wt .-%, contained.

It follow advantageous embodiments of the present invention.

Claims (5)

Cosmetic preparations containing (I) an aqueous one Aniseed extract and (ii) at least one polymeric thickener chosen from the group of cellulose derivatives. Preparations according to claim 1, in which the ratio of the aqueous Aniseed extract to one or more of the acrylamidomethylpropyl sulfonic acid polymers from the range of 100: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 50: 1 to 1 : 50, particularly preferably 20: 1 to 1: 20 is selected. Active substance combinations according to Claim 1, characterized that the thickening agent or agents selected from the group of cellulose derivatives from the group of methylcelluloses 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl celluloses. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 3, in which the aqueous aniseed extract in concentrations of 0.01-10.00 Wt .-%, preferably 0.05-5.00 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1-3.00 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, is present. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 3, wherein the thickening agent (s) selected from the group of cellulose derivatives in concentrations of 0.01-10.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.05-5.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1-3.00 wt .-%, each based on the Total weight of the composition, whether present or present