DE102004041573A1 - New agent for the treatment of keratinic fibers - Google Patents
New agent for the treatment of keratinic fibers Download PDFInfo
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- DE102004041573A1 DE102004041573A1 DE200410041573 DE102004041573A DE102004041573A1 DE 102004041573 A1 DE102004041573 A1 DE 102004041573A1 DE 200410041573 DE200410041573 DE 200410041573 DE 102004041573 A DE102004041573 A DE 102004041573A DE 102004041573 A1 DE102004041573 A1 DE 102004041573A1
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- vitamin
- agent according
- und
- derivatives
- hair
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
- A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
- A61K8/66—Enzymes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
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Abstract
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft ein Mittel zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern, das mindestens eine Protease und mindestens eine weitere Komponente enthält, die ausgewählt ist unter Proteinhydrolysaten sowie Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen sowie deren Derivaten. Weiterhin betrifft die Erfindung entsprechende Verwendungen sowie Verfahren zur Behandlung von keratinischen Fasern.The present invention relates to an agent for the treatment of keratinic fibers which contains at least one protease and at least one further component which is selected from protein hydrolysates as well as vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors as well as their derivatives. Furthermore, the invention relates to corresponding uses and methods for the treatment of keratinic fibers.
Description
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft ein Mittel zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern, das mindestens eine Protease und mindestens eine weitere Komponente enthält, die ausgewählt ist unter Proteinhydrolysaten sowie Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen sowie deren Derivaten. Weiterhin betrifft die Erfindung entsprechende Verwendungen sowie Verfahren zur Behandlung von keratinischen Fasern.The The present invention relates to an agent for the treatment of keratinous Fibers, the at least one protease and at least one other Component contains the selected is among protein hydrolysates as well as vitamins, provitamins and Vitamin precursors and their derivatives. Furthermore, the invention relates corresponding uses as well as methods of treatment of keratinic Fibers.
Menschliches Haar wird heute in vielfältiger Weise mit haarkosmetischen Zubereitungen behandelt. Dazu gehören etwa die Reinigung der Haare mit Shampoos, die Pflege und Regeneration mit Spülungen und Kuren sowie das Bleichen, Färben und Verformen der Haare mit Färbemitteln, Tönungsmitteln, Wellmitteln und Stylingpräparaten. Dabei spielen Mittel zur Veränderung oder Nuancierung der Farbe des Kopfhaares eine herausragende Rolle. Dieses Verhalten führt dazu, dass Haare in vielfältiger Weise strapazierenden Einflüssen ausgesetzt sind, die sich negativ auf die Oberflächenstruktur auswirken.Human Hair is becoming more diverse today Treated with hair cosmetic preparations. These include about Cleaning hair with shampoos, care and regeneration with rinses and cures, as well as bleaching, dyeing and deforming the hair with colorants, Tints, Wells and styling preparations. There are funds for change or nuancing the color of the head hair a prominent role. This behavior leads to make hair more diverse Exposed to straining influences are those that have a negative effect on the surface structure.
Untersuchungen haben gezeigt, dass sich 70 Prozent der Frauen mehrmals pro Woche die Haare waschen, davon 8 Prozent täglich. Dieses Pflegeverhalten führt dazu, dass die sogenannten "Allzweck-Shampoos" durch vielfältige, bedürfnisgerechte und schonendere Rezepturen abgelöst werden. Parallel dazu wächst ebenfalls der Bedarf an ergänzenden Pflegemitteln, denn mechanische Belastungen wie Kämmen, Fönen oder Reiben an der Kleidung strapazieren die Haare. Darüber hinaus wirken chemische Behandlungen wie z. B. Dauerwellen oder Farbveränderungen zusätzlich belastend. Ein Haar wird, bis es eine Länge von 20 cm erreicht hat, durchschnittlich 400 mal gewaschen, gefönt und gebürstet. Unter dem Mikroskop ist ungeschädigtes Haar vergleichbar mit einem Tannenzapfen. Es ist von einer geschlossenen Schuppenschicht umgeben. Bei angegriffenem Haar ist diese Schicht nicht mehr geschlossen. Die Schuppen stehen ab und brechen teilweise heraus. Das darauffallende Licht wird nicht mehr reflektiert, die Haare wirken stumpf und glanzlos. Haarkuren mildern zwar schlimmere Probleme, machen das Haar aber oft "schwer" und wirken in vielen Fällen lediglich an der Oberfläche des Haares, so dass sie es folglich nicht komplett regenerieren können.investigations have shown that 70 percent of women are several times a week Wash your hair, 8% of it daily. This care behavior leads to, that the so-called "all-purpose shampoos" by diverse, needs-based and replaced more gentle recipes become. Parallel to this grows also the need for supplementary Care products, because mechanical loads such as combing, blow drying or Rubbing on the clothes strain the hair. Furthermore act chemical treatments such. B. perms or color changes additionally onerous. A hair becomes, until it reaches a length of 20 cm, an average of 400 times washed, blown and brushed. Under the microscope is undamaged Hair comparable to a pinecone. It is from a closed Surrounding scaly layer. When attacked hair is this layer not closed anymore. The scales stop and break partially out. The incident light is no longer reflected, the Hair looks dull and dull. Hair remedies mitigate worse Problems, but often make the hair "heavy" and act in many cases only on the surface hair, so they do not completely regenerate can.
Es hat daher nicht an Anstrengungen gefehlt, der Schädigung der Haarstruktur durch Einsatz von Pflegewirkstoffen entgegenzuwirken bzw. vorzubeugen. Es wurden vielfältige Pflegekomponenten entwickelt, die gezielt als Nachbehandlungsmittel für geschädigtes Haar zum Einsatz kommen. Ferner wurden die Haarbehandlungsmittel an sich, wie beispielsweise, die Fixiermittel im Rahmen einer Dauerwellbehandlung oder die Färbemittel, mit zusätzlichen Pflegestoffen versetzt. So wurde beispielsweise in der DE-A1-196 17 569 vorgeschlagen, spezielle Aminosäuren als Pflegestoffe zu verwenden.It has therefore not lacked efforts to damage the To counteract hair structure by using care ingredients or prevent. Various care components have been developed which are specifically used as aftertreatment agent for damaged hair. Furthermore, the hair treatment agents themselves, such as, for example, the fixatives in the context of a permanent wave treatment or the colorants, with additional Care substances offset. For example, in DE-A1-196 17 569 proposed to use special amino acids as care substances.
Die DE-C-197 09 334 offenbart den Einsatz proteolytisch aktiver Enzyme zur enzymatischen Auflösung oder Ablösung der eine unerwünschte Rauhigkeit der Haaroberfläche verursachenden abgespreizten Kutikularänder des Haares.The DE-C-197 09 334 discloses the use of proteolytically active enzymes for enzymatic dissolution or replacement the one unwanted Roughness of the hair surface causing splayed cuticle edges of the hair.
Es wurde nun überraschenderweise gefunden, dass der kombinierte Einsatz von proteolytisch aktiven Enzymen und Proteinhydrolysaten und/oder Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen sowie deren Derivaten bei keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere bei Haaren, einen beträchtlichen Repaireffekt bewirkt. Hierdurch wird der Zustand des Haares während der Haarbehandlung von innen her verbessert, indem die verwendeten Pflegestoffe in die zu behandelnden Haare eindringen. Dies führt zu einer Regenerierung bzw. Strukturstabilisierung der Haare, die nicht ausschließlich auf die Haaroberfläche beschränkt bleibt.It was now surprisingly found that the combined use of proteolytically active enzymes and protein hydrolysates and / or vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives in keratinic fibers, in particular in Hair, a considerable Repair effect causes. As a result, the condition of the hair during the Improved hair treatment from the inside by the used care substances penetrate into the hair to be treated. This leads to a regeneration or structural stabilization of the hair, which is not exclusive to the hair surface limited remains.
Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist dahier ein Mittel zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern, das mindestens eine Protease und mindestens eine weitere Komponente enthält, die ausgewählt ist unter Proteinhydrolysaten sowie Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen sowie deren Derivaten.object The present invention is therefore an agent for treatment keratinic fibers containing at least one protease and at least contains another component, the selected is among protein hydrolysates as well as vitamins, provitamins and Vitamin precursors and their derivatives.
Die oben erläuterte Kombinationsbehandlung der keratinischen Fasern mit dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel führt vorteilhafterweise zu einer Verbesserung der geschädigten Struktur der Fasern.The explained above Combination treatment of the keratinic fibers with the agent according to the invention leads advantageously to improve the injured Structure of the fibers.
Das erfindungsgemäße Mittel zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern kann eine Protease oder auch mehrere voneinander verschiedene Proteasen enthalten.The inventive agent For the treatment of keratinic fibers, one or more protease may be used Contain different proteases.
Proteasen spalten Peptid-Bindungen innerhalb einer Aminosäure-Kette. Dadurch kann die Abschuppung verbessert, Poren können vergrößert und Aminosäure-Seitenketten können freigelegt werden. Somit kann das Eindringen der Repairwirkstoffe ins Haar verbessert werden.Proteases cleave peptide bonds within an amino acid chain. This may cause the Abschup pore can be increased and amino acid side chains can be exposed. Thus, the penetration of the repair agents into the hair can be improved.
Es können erfindungsgemäß pro- und/oder eukaryotische Proteasen eingesetzt werden. Sie unterscheiden sich unter anderem durch ihre Spaltspezifität (gezielt nach bestimmten Aminosäuren in einer Kette oder zufällig). Beispielweise spaltet Trypsin Peptid-Bindungen nach den Aminosäuren Arginin und Lysin. Dabei entstehen freie Amino-Gruppen an den Protein-Seitenketten, mit denen entsprechende Reaktionen möglich sind. Die Keratin-Struktur wird weniger stark angegriffen als bei dem Einsatz von unspezifisch spaltenden Proteasen wie z.B. bakterieller Subtilisine.It can according to the invention pro- and / or eukaryotic proteases are used. They differ among other things by their gap specificity (targeted after certain amino acids in a chain or at random). For example, trypsin cleaves peptide bonds after the amino acids arginine and lysine. This results in free amino groups on the protein side chains, with which appropriate reactions are possible. The keratin structure is attacked less heavily than when using unspecific cleaving proteases such as e.g. bacterial subtilisins.
In
dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel
sind grundsätzlich
alle Proteasen einsetzbar, insbesondere die unter EC 3.4 – Acting
on peptide bonds (Peptidases) klassifizierten Enzyme, die beispielsweise
im Internet unter der URL
http://www.chem.gmul.ac.uk/iubmb/enzyme/EC3/4/
aufgelistet
sind.In principle, all proteases can be used in the agent according to the invention, in particular the enzymes classified under EC 3.4 - Acting on peptide bonds (peptidases), which are available for example on the Internet under the URL
http://www.chem.gmul.ac.uk/iubmb/enzyme/EC3/4/
are listed.
Bevorzugte Proteasen sind erfindungsgemäß die Serin Endopeptidasen (E.C.3.4.21) und die Cystein Endopeptidasen (E.C.3.4.22).preferred Proteases according to the invention are the serine Endopeptidases (E.C.3.4.21) and the cysteine endopeptidases (E.C.3.4.22).
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Proteasen sind ausgewählt unter Subtilisin (EC 3.4.21.62), Papain (EC 3.4.22.2) und Bromelain (EC 3.4.22.32).Particularly according to the invention preferred proteases are selected under subtilisin (EC 3.4.21.62), papain (EC 3.4.22.2) and bromelain (EC 3.4.22.32).
Die Enzyme sind in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,005 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zubereitung, enthalten. Mengen von 0,01 bis 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.The Enzymes are in the agent according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total Preparation, included. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are special prefers.
Die mindestens eine weitere Komponente ist in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,005 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zubereitung, enthalten. Mengen von 0,01 bis 2 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.The at least one further component is in the agent according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total Preparation, included. Amounts of 0.01 to 2 wt .-% are special prefers.
Das erfindungsgemäße Mittel kann Proteinhydrolysate umfassen, vorzugsweise kationisierte Proteinhydrolysate, wobei das zugrunde liegende Proteinhydrolysat vom Tier, beispielsweise aus Collagen, Milch oder Keratin, von der Pflanze, beispielsweise aus Weizen, Mais, Reis, Kartoffeln, Soja oder Mandeln, von marinen Lebensformen, beispielsweise aus Fischcollagen oder Algen, oder biotechnologisch gewonnenen Proteinhydrolysaten, stammen kann. Die den erfindungsgemäßen kationischen Derivaten zugrunde liegenden Proteinhydrolysate können aus den entsprechenden Proteinen durch eine chemische, insbesondere alkalische oder saure Hydrolyse, durch eine enzymatische Hydrolyse und/oder einer Kombination aus beiden Hydrolysearten gewonnen werden. Die Hydrolyse von Proteinen ergibt in der Regel ein Proteinhydrolysat mit einer Molekulargewichtsverteilung von etwa 100 Dalton bis hin zu mehreren tausend Dalton. Bevorzugt sind solche kationischen Proteinhydrolysate, deren zugrunde liegender Proteinanteil ein Molekulargewicht von 100 bis zu 25000 Dalton, bevorzugt 250 bis 5000 Dalton aufweist. Weiterhin sind unter kationischen Proteinhydrolysaten quaternierte Aminosäuren und deren Gemische zu verstehen. Die Quaternisierung der Proteinhydrolysate oder der Aminosäuren wird häufig mittels quarternären Ammoniumsalzen wie beispielsweise N,N-Dimethyl-N-(n-Alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammoniumhalogeniden durchgeführt. Weiterhin können die kationischen Proteinhydrolysate auch noch weiter derivatisiert sein. Als typische Beispiele für die erfindungsgemäßen kationischen Proteinhydrolysate und – derivate seien die unter den INCI – Bezeichnungen im "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, N.W., Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) genannten und im Handel erhältlichen Produkte genannt: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysüicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydro lyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind die unter den Handelsnamen Gluadin WQ und Gluadin WLM erhältlichen Proteinhydrolysate auf Weizenbasis.The agent according to the invention may comprise protein hydrolysates, preferably cationized protein hydrolysates, wherein the protein hydrolyzate on which the animal is based, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrinium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxic Acid, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydro lyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. Very particular preference is given to wheat-based protein hydrolysates available under the trade names Gluadin WQ and Gluadin WLM.
Es hat sich erfindungsgemäß als bevorzugte erwiesen, wenn das Mittel mindestens ein kationisches Proteinhydrolysat enthält. Dabei kann die erfindungsgemäße Wirkung noch weiter gesteigert werden, wenn die Mittel der vorliegenden Erfindung mindestens ein kationisches sowie mindestens ein nichtionisches Proteinhydrolysat enthalten.It has invented as preferred proven when the agent at least one cationic protein hydrolyzate contains. In this case, the effect of the invention be further increased if the funds of the present Invention at least one cationic and at least one nonionic Contain protein hydrolyzate.
Weiterhin hat es sich erfindungsgemäß als bevorzugt erwiesen, wenn die Mittel mindestens ein Weizenproteinhydrolysat enthalten.Farther it has according to the invention as preferred proven when the means at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate contain.
Weiterhin kann das erfindungsgemäße Mittel Vitamine, Provitamine und Vitaminvorstufe sowie deren Derivate enthalten.Farther can the agent of the invention Vitamins, Provitamine and vitamin precursor and their derivatives contain.
Dabei sind erfindungsgemäß solche Vitamine, Pro-Vitamine und Vitaminvorstufen bevorzugt, die üblicherweise den Gruppen A, B. C, E, F und H zugeordnet werden.there are such according to the invention Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, usually the groups A, B. C, E, F and H are assigned.
Zur Gruppe der als Vitamin A bezeichneten Substanzen gehören das Retinol (Vitamin A1) sowie das 3,4-Didehydroretinol (Vitamin A2). Das β-Carotin ist das Provitamin des Retinols. Als Vitamin A-Komponente kommen erfindungsgemäß beispielsweise Vitamin A-Säure und deren Ester, Vitamin A-Aldehyd und Vitamin A-Alkohol sowie dessen Ester wie das Palmitat und das Acetat in Betracht. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Zubereitungen enthalten die Vitamin A- Komponente bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zubereitung.The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
Zur Vitamin B-Gruppe oder zu dem Vitamin B-Komplex gehören u. a.
- – itamin B1 (Thiamin)
- – Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin)
- – Vitamin B3. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäß verwendetenen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.
- – Vitamin B5 (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B5-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Miteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 – 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1 – 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
- – Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).
- - itamin B 1 (thiamine)
- - Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
- - Vitamin B 3 . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
- - Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- - Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
Vitamin C (Ascorbinsäure). Vitamin C wird in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 bis 3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel eingesetzt. Die Verwendung in Form des Palmitinsäureesters, der Glucoside oder Phosphate kann bevorzugt sein. Die Verwendung in Kombination mit Tocopherolen kann ebenfalls bevorzugt sein.vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferred in the compositions used in the invention used in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or Phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with Tocopherols may also be preferred.
Vitamin E (Tocopherole, insbesondere α-Tocopherol). Tocopherol und seine Derivate, worunter insbesondere die Ester wie das Acetat, das Nicotinat, das Phosphat und das Succinat fallen, sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten.vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate fall, are used in the invention Means preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the entire medium, included.
Vitamin F. Unter dem Begriff "Vitamin F" werden üblicherweise essentielle Fettsäuren, insbesondere Linolsäure, Linolensäure und Arachidonsäure, verstanden.Vitamin F. Under the term "vitamin F" are usually essential fatty acids, in particular Linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.
Vitamin H. Als Vitamin Hwird die Verbindung (3aS,4S, 6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure bezeichnet, für die sich aber inzwischen der Trivialname Biotin durchgesetzt hat. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.vitamin H. The vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for the But in the meantime, the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. biotin is used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in Amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-% included.
Bevorzugt enthalten die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel Vitamine, Provitamine und Vitaminvorstufen aus den Gruppen A, B, E und H.Prefers contain the inventively used Means vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from the groups A, B, E and H.
Panihenol, Pantolacton, Pyridoxin und seine Derivate sowie Nicotinsäureamid und Biotin sind besonders bevorzugt. Panthenol, Pantolacton sowie Nicotinsäureamid sind ganz besonders bevorzugt. Als ganz besonders geeignet hat sich erfindungsgemäß Pantolacton erwiesen.Panihenol, Pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred. Panthenol, pantolactone as well nicotinamide are very particularly preferred. As especially suitable According to the invention, pantolactone proved.
Im Rahmen einer besonders bevorzugte Ausführungsform der vorliegenden Erfindung enthält das erfindungsgemäße Mittel mindestens ein Proteinhydrolysat und mindestens ein Vitamin, Provitamin oder eine Vitaminvorstufe sowie eines deren Derivate enthält.in the Frame of a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention Invention contains the agent of the invention at least one protein hydrolyzate and at least one vitamin, provitamin or a vitamin precursor and one of their derivatives.
Ganz besonders bevorzugt im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist die eine Wirkstoffkombination aus Pantolacton, mindestens einem kationischen sowie mindestens einem nichtionischen Weizenproteinhydrolysat. Dies wird beispielsweise durch den Einsatz von Pantolacton in Kombination mit den Handelsprodukten Gluadin® WQ und Gluadin® WLM erreicht.Very particularly preferred for the purposes of the present invention is an active ingredient combination of pantolactone, at least one cationic and at least one nonionic wheat protein hydrolyzate. This is achieved for example by the use of pantolactone in combination with the commercial products Gluadin ® WQ and Gluadin ® WLM.
Hinsichtlich des zeitlichen Ablaufs unterliegt der Einsatz des erfindungsgemäßen Mittels keinerlei Beschränkungen. Es ist prinzipiell möglich, zwei separate Zubereitungen, enthaltend (a) die Protease und (b) die mindestens eine weitere Komponente nacheinander in beliebiger Reihenfolge auf die Fasern aufzubringen. Hierbei sollte allerdings zwischen den Schritten (a) und (b) kein allzu großer zeitlicher Abstand liegen, so dass die Fasern zwischen den Schritten nicht trocknen.Regarding the timing is subject to the use of the agent according to the invention no restrictions. It is possible in principle two separate preparations containing (a) the protease and (b) the at least one further component in succession in any Order on the fibers. This should, however between steps (a) and (b) not too long in time Distance, so that the fibers between the steps are not dry.
Obwohl das erfindungsgemäße Mittel prinzipiell auf dem Haar verbleiben kann, wird das Mittel vorzugsweise nach einer Einwirkzeit von 1 Minute bis 60 Stunden ausgespült. Dieses Ausspülen kann mit reinem Wasser oder einem marktüblichen Shampoo erfolgen. Einwirkzeiten von 5 bis 15 Minuten haben sich in den meisten Fällen als ausreichend erwiesen.Even though the agent of the invention in principle can remain on the hair, the agent is preferred rinsed after an exposure time of 1 minute to 60 hours. This rinse can be done with pure water or a regular shampoo. Exposure times from 5 to 15 minutes have proven sufficient in most cases.
Unabhängig von dem genauen Ablauf der Vorbehandlung hat es sich als vorteilhaft erwiesen, das erfindungsgemäße Mittel bei einer Temperatur von 20 bis 55°C, insbesondere von 35 bis 40°C, anzuwenden.Independent of the exact course of the pretreatment, it has been advantageous proven, the agent of the invention at a temperature of 20 to 55 ° C, in particular from 35 to 40 ° C, apply.
Hinsichtlich der Art, gemäß das erfindungsgemäße Mittel auf die keratinische Faser, insbesondere das menschliche Haar, aufgebracht wird, bestehen keine prinzipiellen Einschränkungen. Als Konfektionierung dieser das das erfindungsgemäße Mittel enthaltenden Zubereitungen sind beispielsweise Cremes, Lotionen, Lösungen, Wässer, Emulsionen wie W/O-, O/W-, PIT-Emulsionen (Emulsionen nach der Lehre der Phaseninversion, PIT genannt), Mikroemulsionen und multiple Emulsionen, Gele, Sprays, Aerosole und Schaumaerosole geeignet. Diese werden in der Regel auf wäßriger oder wäßrig-alkoholischer Basis formuliert. Als alkoholische Komponente kommen dabei niedere Alkanole sowie Polyole wie Propylenglykol und Glycerin zum Einsatz. Ethanol und Isopropanol sind bevorzugte Alkohole. Wasser und Alkohol können in der wäßrig alkoholischen Basis in einem Gewichtsverhältnis von 1 : 10 bis 10 : 1 vorliegen. Wasser sowie wäßrig-alkoholische Mischungen, die bis zu 50 Gew.-%, insbesondere bis zu 25 Gew.-%, Alkohol, bezogen auf das Gemisch Alkohol/Wasser, enthal ten, können erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Grundlagen sein. Der pH-Wert dieser Zubereitungen kann prinzipiell bei Werten von 2–11 liegen. Erliegt bevorzugt zwischen 2 und 7, wobei Werte von 3 bis 5 besonders bevorzugt sind. Zur Einstellung dieses pH-Wertes kann praktisch jede für kosmetische Zwecke verwendbare Säure oder Base verwendet werden. Üblicherweise werden als Säuren Genußsäuren verwendet. Unter Genußsäuren werden solche Säuren verstanden, die im Rahmen der üblichen Nahrungsaufnahme aufgenommen werden und positive Auswirkungen auf den menschlichen Organismus haben. Genußsäuren sind beispielsweise Essigsäure, Milchsäure, Weinsäure, Zitronensäure, Äpfelsäure, Ascorbinsäure und Gluconsäure. Im Rahmen der Erfindung ist die Verwendung von Zitronensäure und Milchsäure besonders bevorzugt. Bevorzugte Basen sind Ammoniak, Alkalihydroxide, Triethanolamin sowie N,N,N',N'-Tetrakis-(2-hydroxypropyl)-ethylendiamin.Regarding the type, according to the agent of the invention on the keratinic fiber, especially human hair, applied there are no fundamental restrictions. As packaging this is the agent of the invention containing preparations are, for example, creams, lotions, Solutions, waters, Emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions according to the teaching phase inversion, called PIT), microemulsions and multiple Emulsions, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols suitable. These are usually watery or aqueous-alcoholic Basis formulated. The alcoholic component is lower Alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol can in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio from 1:10 to 10: 1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures, which up to 50 wt .-%, in particular up to 25 wt .-%, based on alcohol to the mixture alcohol / water, th contained, can according to the invention preferred Be fundamentals. The pH of these preparations can in principle at values of 2-11 lie. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 7 5 are particularly preferred. To adjust this pH can virtually every one for cosmetic use acid or base can be used. Usually be called acids Consumed acids. Under Be enjoyment acids such acids understood that under the usual Food intake and positive effects to have the human organism. Acetic acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and Gluconic. In the context of the invention is the use of citric acid and lactic acid particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, Triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
Das Mittel kann als Einkammersystem oder als Zweikammersystem konfektioniert werden. Bei einem Zweikammersystem sind typischerweise die Enzymkomponente (Protease) und die Repairstoffkomponente (Proteinhydrolisate, Pantolacton, Panthenol oder Niacinamid) räumlich voneinander getrennt.The agent can be made up as a single-chamber system or as a two-chamber system. In a bicameral system, typically the enzyme component (protease) and the repair material component (Protein hydrolysates, pantolactone, panthenol or niacinamide) spatially separated.
Ein weiterer Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ein zweiteiliges Kit zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern, das dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass es
- a) die Enzymkomponente (Protease) und
- b) die Repairstoffkomponente (Proteinhydrolisate, Pantolacton, Panthenol oder Niacinamid)
- a) the enzyme component (protease) and
- b) the repair substance component (protein hydrolysates, pantolactone, panthenol or niacinamide)
Neben dem erfindungsgemäß zwingend erforderlichen Enzym und der mindestens einen weiteren oben genannten Komponente, kann das Mittel prinzipiell alle weiteren, dem Fachmann für solche kosmetischen Mittel bekannten Komponenten enthalten.Next the invention mandatory required enzyme and the at least one other above Component, the agent can in principle all other, the expert for such cosmetic agent known components.
Weitere Wirk-, Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe sind beispielsweise
- – anionische Tenside, insbesondere Alkylsulfate, Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate und Ethercarbonsäuren mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und bis zu 12 Glykolethergruppen im Molekül, Seifen sowie Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethyl-ester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
- – ampholytische Tenside wie beispielsweise N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkyl-aminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
- – nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere und Polysiloxane,
- – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol,
- – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
- ,haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephaline, sowie Silikonöle,
- – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
- – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
- – symmetrische und unsymmetrische, lineare und verzweigte Dialkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether und Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3- ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether,
- – Fettalkohole, insbesondere lineare und/oder gesättigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, und Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 6 bis 24 C-Atomen,
- – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide, wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
- – konditionierende Wirkstoffe wie Paraffinöle, pflanzliche Öle, z. B. Sonnenblumenöl, Orangenöl, Mandelöl, Weizenkeimöl und Pfirsichkernöl sowie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephaline,
- – quaternierte Amine wie Methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-methosulfat,
- – Entschäumer wie Silikone,
- – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
- – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
- – Lichtschutzmittel, insbesondere derivatisierte Benzophenone, Zimtsäure-Derivate und Triazine,
- – weitere Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, wie beispielsweise α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren
- – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
- – Cholesterin,
- – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
- – Fette und Wachse wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs und Paraffine,
- – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
- – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
- – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
- – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
- – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
- – Pigmente,
- – Reduktionsmittel wie z. B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thiomilchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und α-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure,
- – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N2O, Dimethylether, CO2 und Luft,
- – Antioxidantien.
- Anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl- esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
- Ampholytic surfactants such as N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group,
- Nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
- Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
- - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
- hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
- Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
- Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
- - symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,
- Fatty alcohols, in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms,
- Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
- - Conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil as well as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
- Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
- Defoamers like silicones,
- Dyes for staining the agent,
- Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
- - light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines,
- - Other substances for adjusting the pH, such as α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids
- - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
- - cholesterol,
- Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
- - fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
- Fatty acid alkanolamides,
- Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
- - Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogencarbo nate, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
- Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
- Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
- - pigments,
- - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
- Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
- - antioxidants.
Das erfindungsgemäße Mittel kann außerdem Tenside enthalten. Bei diesen kann es sich sowohl um anionische, ampholytische, zwitterionische oder nichtionogene Tenside als auch um kationische Tenside handeln. Der Fachmann kann einen eventuellen Einfluß der verschiedenen Tenside auf die Aktivität der Protease gegebenenfalls durch einfache Vorversuche überprüfen.The inventive agent can also Containing surfactants. These can be both anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well to act cationic surfactants. The expert can do a possible Influence of different surfactants on the activity of the protease optionally check by simple preliminary tests.
In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform der vorliegenden Erfindung wird eine Kombination aus anionischen und nichtionischen Tensiden oder eine Kombination aus anionischen und amphoteren Tensiden eingesetzt.In a preferred embodiment The present invention is a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants used.
Es hat sich aber in Einzelfällen als vorteilhaft erwiesen, die Tenside aus amphoteren oder nichtionischen Tensiden auszuwählen.It but has in individual cases proved to be advantageous, the surfactants of amphoteric or nonionic Select surfactants.
Als anionische Tenside eignen sich in erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln alle für die Verwendung am menschlichen Körper geeigneten anionischen oberflächenaktiven Stoffe. Diese sind gekennzeichnet durch eine wasserlöslich machende, anionische Gruppe wie z. B. eine Carboxylat-, Sulfat-, Sulfonat- oder Phosphat-Gruppe und eine lipophile Alkylgruppe mit etwa 10 bis 22 C-Atomen. Zusätzlich können im Molekül Glykol- oder Polyglykolether-Gruppen, Ester-, Ether- und Amidgruppen sowie Hydroxylgruppen enthalten sein.When Anionic surfactants are all suitable for use in compositions according to the invention on the human body suitable anionic surface-active Substances. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 10 up to 22 C atoms. additionally can in the molecule Glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups.
Nichtionogene Tenside enthalten als hydrophile Gruppe z. B. eine Polyolgruppe, eine Polyalkylenglykolethergruppe oder eine Kombination aus Polyol- und Polyglykolethergruppe. Solche Verbindungen sind beispielsweise
- – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
- – C12-C22-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
- – C8-C22-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga sowie
- – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl.
- Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
- C 12 -C 22 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
- C 8 -C 22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, and
- - Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.
Bevorzugte nichtionische Tenside sind Alkylpolyglykoside der allgemeinen Formel R1O-(Z)x. Diese Verbindungen sind durch die folgenden Parameter gekennzeichnet.Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R 1 O- (Z) x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.
Der Alkylrest R1 enthält 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatome und kann sowohl linear als auch verzweigt sein. Bevorzugt sind primäre lineare und in 2-Stellung methylverzweigte aliphatische Reste. Solche Alkylreste sind beispielsweise 1-Octyl, 1-Decyl, 1-Lauryl, 1-Myristyl, 1-Cetyl und 1-Stearyl. Besonders bevorzugt sind 1-Octyl, 1-Decyl, 1-Lauryl, 1-Myristyl. Bei Verwendung sogenannter "Oxo-Alkohole" als Ausgangsstoffe überwiegen Verbindungen mit einer ungeraden Anzahl von Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette.The alkyl radical R 1 contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglykoside können beispielsweise nur einen bestimmten Alkylrest R1 enthalten. Üblicherweise werden diese Verbindungen aber ausgehend von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen oder Mineralölen hergestellt. In diesem Fall liegen als Alkylreste R Mischungen entsprechend den Ausgangsverbindungen bzw. entsprechend der jeweiligen Aufarbeitung dieser Verbindungen vor.The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R 1 . Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.
Besonders bevorzugt sind solche Alkylpolyglykoside, bei denen R1
- – im wesentlichen aus C8- und C10-Alkylgruppen,
- – im wesentlichen aus C12- und C14-Alkyigruppen,
- – im wesentlichen aus C8- bis C16-Alkylgruppen oder
- – im wesentlichen aus C12- bis C16-Alkylgruppen besteht.
- Consisting essentially of C 8 and C 10 -alkyl groups,
- Essentially C 12 and C 14 -alkyl groups,
- - Essentially from C 8 - to C 16 alkyl groups or
- - Consists essentially of C 12 - to C 16 -alkyl groups.
Als Zuckerbaustein Z können beliebige Mono- oder Oligosaccharide eingesetzt werden. Üblicherweise werden Zucker mit 5 bzw. 6 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie die entsprechenden Oligosaccharide eingesetzt. Solche Zucker sind beispielsweise Glucose, Fructose, Galactose, Arabinose, Ribose, Xylose, Lyxose, Allose, Altrose, Mannose, Gulose, Idose, Talose und Sucrose. Bevorzugte Zuckerbausteine sind Glucose, Fructose, Galactose, Arabinose und Sucrose; Glucose ist besonders bevorzugt.As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, Mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglykoside enthalten im Schnitt 1,1 bis 5 Zuckereinheiten. Alkylpolyglykoside mit x-Werten von 1,1 bis 1,6 sind bevorzugt. Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind Alkylglykoside, bei denen x 1,1 bis 1,4 beträgt.The usable according to the invention Alkyl polyglycosides contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x 1.1 to 1.4.
Die Alkylglykoside können neben ihrer Tensidwirkung auch dazu dienen, die Fixierung von Duftkomponenten auf dem Haar zu verbessern. Der Fachmann wird also für den Fall, dass eine über die Dauer der Haarbehandlung hinausgehende Wirkung des Parfümöles auf dem Haar gewünscht wird, bevorzugt zu dieser Substanzklasse als weiterem Inhaltsstoff der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen zurückgreifen.The Alkyl glycosides can in addition to their surfactant effect also serve the fixation of fragrance components to improve on the hair. The person skilled in the art will therefore be that one over the effect of the perfume oil beyond the duration of the hair treatment the hair desired is, preferably to this class of substance as a further ingredient the preparations according to the invention To fall back on.
Auch die alkoxylierten Homologen der genannten Alkylpolyglykoside können erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden. Diese Homologen können durchschnittlich bis zu 10 Ethylenoxid- und/oder Propylenoxideinheiten pro Alkylglykosideinheit enthalten.Also The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can be used according to the invention become. These homologs can an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
Weiterhin können, insbesondere als Co-Tenside, zwitterionische Tenside verwendet werden. Als zwitterionische Tenside werden solche oberflächenaktive Verbindungen bezeichnet, die im Molekül mindestens eine quartäre Ammoniumgruppe und mindestens eine -COO(–)- oder -SO3 (–)-Gruppe tragen. Besonders geeignete zwitterionische Tenside sind die sogenannten Betaine wie die N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosalkyl-dimethylammonium-glycinat, N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumgtycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, und 2-Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe sowie das Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. Ein bevorzugtes zwitterionisches Tensid ist das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Cocamidopropyl Betaine bekannte Fettsäureamid-Derivat.Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (-) or -SO 3 (-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium-gyccinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Ebenfalls insbesondere als Co-Tenside geeignet sind ampholytische Tenside. Unter ampholytischen Tensiden werden solche oberflächenaktiven Verbindungen verstanden, die außer einer C8-C18-Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe im Molekül mindestens eine freie Aminogruppe und mindestens eine -COOH- oder -SO3H-Gruppe enthalten und zur Ausbildung innerer Salze befähigt sind. Beispiele für geeignete ampholytische Tenside sind N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe. Besonders bevorzugte ampholytische Tenside sind das N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat, das Kokosacylaminoethylaminopropionat und das C12–18-Acylsarcosin.Also particularly suitable as co-surfactants are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 18 -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12-18 acylsarcosine.
Erfindungsgemäß werden als kationische Tenside insbesondere solche vom Typ der quartären Ammoniumverbindungen, der Esterquats und der Amidoamine eingesetzt.According to the invention as cationic surfactants, especially those of the quaternary ammonium type, the esterquats and amidoamines used.
Bevorzugte quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen sind Ammoniumhalogenide, insbesondere Chloride und Bromide, wie Alkyltrimethylammoniumchloride, Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride und Trialkylmethylammoniumchloride, z. B. Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Stearyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Distearyldimethylammoniumchlorid, Lauryldimethylammoniumchlorid, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid und Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid, sowie die unter den INCI-Bezeichnungen Quaternium-27 und Quaterniuni-83 bekannten Imidazolium-Verbindungen. Die langen Alkylketten der oben genannten Tenside weisen bevorzugt 10 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatome auf.preferred quaternary Ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and Bromides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaterniuni-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants are preferred 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
Bei Esterquats handelt es sich um bekannte Stoffe, die sowohl mindestens eine Esterfunktion als auch mindestens eine quartäre Ammoniumgruppe als Strukturelement enthalten. Bevorzugte Esterquats sind quaternierte Estersalze von Fettsäuren mit Triethanolamin, quaternierte Estersalze von Fettsäuren mit Diethanolalkylaminen und quaternierten Estersalze von Fettsäuren mit 1,2-Dihydroxypropyldialkylaminen. Solche Produkte werden beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Stepantex®, Dehyquart® und Armocare® vertrieben. Die Produkte Armocare® VGH-70, ein N,N-Bis(2-Palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammoniumchlorid, sowie Dehyquart® F-75 und Dehyquart® AU-35 sind Beispiele für solche Esterquats.Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®. The products Armocare ® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75 and Dehyquart ® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.
Die Alkylamidoamine werden üblicherweise durch Amidierung natürlicher oder synthetischer Fettsäuren und Fettsäureschnitte mit Dialkylaminoaminen hergestellt. Eine erfindungsgemäß besonders geeignete Verbindung aus dieser Substanzgruppe stellt das unter der Bezeichnung Tegoamid® S 18 im Handel erhältliche Stearamidopropyl-dimethylamin dar.The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Bei den als Tensid eingesetzten Verbindungen mit Alkylgruppen kann es sich jeweils um einheitliche Substanzen handeln. Es ist jedoch in der Regel bevorzugt, bei der Herstellung dieser Stoffe von nativen pflanzlichen oder tierischen Rohstoffen auszugehen, so dass man Substanzgemische mit unterschiedlichen, vom jeweiligen Rohstoff abhängigen Alkylkettenlängen erhält.at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native to go out with vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Substance mixtures with different, from the respective raw material dependent alkyl chain lengths receives.
Bei den Tensiden, die Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylen- und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole oder Derivate dieser Anlagerungsprodukte darstellen, können sowohl Produkte mit einer "normalen" Homologenverteilung als auch solche mit einer eingeengten Homologenverteilung verwendet werden. Unter "normaler" Homologenverteilung werden dabei Mischungen von Homologen verstanden, die man bei der Umsetzung von Fettalkohol und Alkylenoxid. unter Verwendung von Alkalimetallen, Alkalimetallhydroxiden oder Alkalimetallalkoholaten als Katalysatoren erhält. Eingeengte Homologenverteilungen werden dagegen erhalten, wenn beispielsweise Hydrotalcite, Erdalkalimetallsalze von Ethercarbonsäuren, Erdalkalimetalloxide, -hydroxide oder -alkoholate als Katalysatoren verwendet werden. Die Verwendung von Produkten mit eingeengter Homologenverteilung kann bevorzugt sein.at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution are understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are used in the Reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide. under the use of Alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example Hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
Bezüglich weiterer fakultativer Komponenten sowie die eingesetzten Mengen dieser Komponenten wird ausdrücklich auf die dem Fachmann bekannten einschlägigen Handbücher, z. B. Kh. Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika, 2. Auflage, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, verwiesen.Regarding further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used expressly on the specialist manuals known to those skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, Basics and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.
Ein weiterer Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist die Verwendung von mindestens einer Protease und mindestens einer weiteren Komponente, die ausgewählt ist unter Proteinhydrolysaten sowie Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen sowie deren Derivaten zur Verbesserung der Struktur keratinischer Fasern.One Another object of the present invention is the use at least one protease and at least one further component, the selected is among protein hydrolysates as well as vitamins, provitamins and Vitamin precursors and their derivatives to improve the structure keratinic fibers.
Ein weiterer Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ein Verfahren zur Verbesserung der Struktur keratinischer Fasern, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass man ein erfindungsgemäßes Mittel auf die keratinischen Fasern aufbringt. One Another object of the present invention is a method for improving the structure of keratinic fibers, characterized that is an agent according to the invention on the keratin fibers.
Ausführungsbeispiele:EXAMPLES
Die
folgenden Beispiele erläutern
die Erfindung, ohne sie jedoch darauf einzuschränken: Beispiel
1: Haarspülung
Durchführung:Execution:
Vorbehandlung der HaarsträhnenPretreatment of the hair strands
Die Haare (Alkinco 6634) wurden vor der Nullmessung mit einer Texapon® NSO – Lösung (ca. 10% AS) vorgereinigt und anschließend standard-dauergewellt. Das heißt es wurden 2 g Dauerwellgel (Poly-Lock 1) auf 1 g Haarsträhne verteilt. Anschließend wurde nach 40-minütigem Einwirken des Gels unter Standardbedingungen 60 Sekunden mit kaltem Leitungswasser gespült. Hiernach erfolgte die Fixierung mit 2 g Poly-Lock 2 pro 1 g Haar-strähne über einen Zeitraum von 10 Minuten.The hair (Alkinco 6634) were before the zero measurement with a Texapon.RTM ® NSO - pre-purified solution (10% AS) and then permed standard. That is, 2 g of permanent wave gel (Poly-Lock 1) were distributed over 1 g of hair strand. Subsequently, after 40 minutes of exposure to the gel under standard conditions, it was rinsed with cold tap water for 60 seconds. This was followed by fixing with 2 g of Poly-Lock 2 per 1 g of hair strand over a period of 10 minutes.
Produktapplikationproduct application
Eine Haarsträhne wurde mit einer wässrigen Lösung von derjeweiligen Wirkstoffmischung behandelt. Die Eintauchzeit betrug 15 Minuten bei Raumtemperatur. Anschließend wurde das Haar 30 Sekunden unter kaltem, fließendem Leitungswasser ausgespült und luftgetrocknet.A strand of hair was with an aqueous solution treated by the respective active ingredient mixture. The immersion time was 15 minutes at room temperature. Subsequently, the hair was 30 seconds under cold, flowing Rinsed tap water and air-dried.
DSC-MessungenDSC measurements
Zur Verifizierung des Repaireffektes wurden DSC-Messungen durchgeführt. Die Strähnen wurden in kleine Stücke (~ 1 mm) geschnitten und anschließend 5 Aliquots jeder Haarsträhne in die DSC-Messgefäße überführt. Nach Zugabe von aqua deion. erfolgten die Messungen in einem Temperaturbereich von 110–170°C, bei 10°C/Min. Ermittelt wurden der Schmelzpunkt (Peak-Maximum in [°C]) und die Denaturierungsenthalpie (Fläche unter dem Peak in [J/g]).to Verifying the repair effect, DSC measurements were performed. The strands were in small pieces Cut (~ 1 mm) and then 5 aliquots of each strand of hair in the DSC measuring vessels transferred. To Addition of aqua deion. the measurements were made in a temperature range from 110-170 ° C, at 10 ° C / min. determined were the melting point (peak maximum in [° C]) and the Denaturierungsenthalpie (Area below the peak in [J / g]).
Es
haben sich die folgenden Messwerte (Signifikanzniveau > 99%) ergeben: 1.
Messreihe (Leave-on)
Verzeichnis der eingesetzten Handelsproduktedirectory the commercial products used
Die im Rahmen der Beispiele eingesetzten Handelsprodukte sind wie folgt definiert:The commercial products used in the examples are as follows Are defined:
Claims (14)
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE200410041573 DE102004041573A1 (en) | 2004-08-26 | 2004-08-26 | New agent for the treatment of keratinic fibers |
| PCT/EP2005/008875 WO2006021350A1 (en) | 2004-08-26 | 2005-08-16 | Novel agent for treating keratin fibres |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE200410041573 DE102004041573A1 (en) | 2004-08-26 | 2004-08-26 | New agent for the treatment of keratinic fibers |
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| DE102004041573A1 true DE102004041573A1 (en) | 2006-03-02 |
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| DE200410041573 Withdrawn DE102004041573A1 (en) | 2004-08-26 | 2004-08-26 | New agent for the treatment of keratinic fibers |
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| DE (1) | DE102004041573A1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2006021350A1 (en) |
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| US20170321153A1 (en) * | 2012-09-10 | 2017-11-09 | Ecolab Usa Inc. | Stable liquid manual dishwashing compositions containing enzymes |
Families Citing this family (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US8147853B2 (en) | 2005-02-15 | 2012-04-03 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Personal care compositions containing hydrophobically modified non-platelet particles |
| US8563491B2 (en) | 2005-03-04 | 2013-10-22 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Methods of cleansing skin and rinse-off or wipe-off compositions therefor |
| FR2949969B1 (en) * | 2009-09-11 | 2012-08-03 | Svr Lab | COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON PURE UREA, USE AND CORRESPONDING APPLICATION METHOD |
| CN103431172A (en) * | 2013-08-27 | 2013-12-11 | 江苏康科食品工程技术有限公司 | Preparation method of wheat protein peptide |
| EP4635576A1 (en) * | 2024-04-16 | 2025-10-22 | Basf Se | Proteases for hair-care |
Family Cites Families (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS5879913A (en) * | 1981-11-09 | 1983-05-13 | Taizo Ayukawa | Hair tonic composition |
| US5738879A (en) * | 1995-11-15 | 1998-04-14 | Rine; Jasper M. | Scalp hair treatment method and composition |
| US6106828A (en) * | 1996-02-15 | 2000-08-22 | Novo Nordisk A/S | Conjugation of polypeptides |
| DE19649098A1 (en) * | 1996-11-27 | 1998-05-28 | Beiersdorf Ag | Pharmaceutical, cosmetic and other compositions containing protease |
| DE19653736C2 (en) * | 1996-12-12 | 2002-11-21 | Lancaster Group Gmbh | Cosmetic preparation with added peptide |
| US6416769B1 (en) * | 2000-03-03 | 2002-07-09 | Australian Importers, Ltd. | Cosmetic compositions comprising exfoliating enzymes and uses thereof |
| AU2000273752A1 (en) * | 2000-09-13 | 2002-03-26 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Cosmetic method |
| AU2000274826A1 (en) * | 2000-09-13 | 2002-03-26 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Cosmetic compositions |
| FR2817475B1 (en) * | 2000-12-04 | 2005-06-17 | Rocher Yves Biolog Vegetale | USE OF A RETINOL PROTEASE-SOURCE ASSOCIATION TO PREVENT SKIN AGING |
| JP2004182687A (en) * | 2002-12-05 | 2004-07-02 | Kao Corp | Elastase inhibitor |
-
2004
- 2004-08-26 DE DE200410041573 patent/DE102004041573A1/en not_active Withdrawn
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2005
- 2005-08-16 WO PCT/EP2005/008875 patent/WO2006021350A1/en not_active Ceased
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20170321153A1 (en) * | 2012-09-10 | 2017-11-09 | Ecolab Usa Inc. | Stable liquid manual dishwashing compositions containing enzymes |
| US10723974B2 (en) * | 2012-09-10 | 2020-07-28 | Ecolab Usa Inc. | Stable liquid manual dishwashing compositions containing enzymes |
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