DE10150619A1 - Solid water/oil emulsion, used as moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, cleansing, sun protection, after-sun, lip salve or decorative cosmetic stick contains oil, wax, moisturizer in aqueous phase and emulsifier - Google Patents

Abstract

Water/oil (W/O) emulsion, which is solid at room temperature, contains: (a) a fat phase of (a1) oil component(s) and (a2) wax component(s); (b) an aqueous phase of (b1) 30-85 wt.% water and (b2) 5-50 wt.% skin moisturizer selected from specified compounds; and (c) W/O emulsifier(s) selected from surfactants with 2 identical or different hydrophobic organic groups on a hydrophilic bridge. Water/oil (W/O) emulsion, which is solid at room temperature, contains: (a) a fat phase of (a1) oil component(s) and (a2) wax component(s); (b) an aqueous phase of (b1) 30-85 wt.% water and (b2) 5-50 wt.% skin moisturizer selected from glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, glycine, sodium pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acids, salts of these acids, urea and salts of group IA and IIA metals; and (c) W/O emulsifier(s) selected from surfactants of formula (I). A-B-A' (I) A, A' = the same or different hydrophobic organic groups; and B = a hydrophilic group. An Independent claim is also included for cosmetic and/or dermatological stick containing the emulsion, which can be spread and stored in a temperature range from -10 to 50 deg C.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up sticks, which are in a pencil case and their use.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive has been around for thousands of years People rooted. Even if the ideal of beauty changes over time experience, the pursuit of a flawless appearance is always the goal of the People have been as a sympathetic appearance their self-esteem and the Attraction to their fellow man increased. The concept of decorative cosmetics is leading from the Latin "decoratio" - emphasizing the beautiful. Mostly with With the help of dyes, individual parts of the body, especially on the face, are highlighted and color non-uniformities mitigated.

The facial make-up is said to give the facial skin a natural look, pale Refresh the skin and compensate for color irregularities in the skin.

In addition to face powders and blush as powdered cosmetics, this will be cream-like preparations, such as day creams and cream make-up based on emulsions used. A special embodiment is the so-called foundation or Foundation stick (make-up stick for face and cheeks). One calls a foundation thereby liquid or semi-solid make-up preparations, which are mostly skin-colored and on the Face, especially on the cheeks. You give this one uniform, healthy tanned or reddish appearance. The foundation stick is as Make-up pencil the pen-shaped embodiment of the foundation.

The disadvantage of previously known make-up pencils for the face and cheeks is on the one hand in poor stability of the pins. Many pens are sensitive to shear forces, and crumble easily, so that the decorative emulsion is difficult to spread on the skin. Furthermore, they are not particularly temperature-stable, lubricate and flow when Use in the hot summer months, while in the cold winter Temperatures become brittle and dull.

So far, the sensory properties have also left something to be desired. The makeup pens should actually have a pleasant cooling effect on the skin and become creamy feel what is only partially achieved with the state-of-the-art products.

Both WO 98/17232 and EP 1 064 908 describe cosmetic and dermatological pens with a high water content, in the former also that emulsifier system according to the invention is described and in the second the use of Pigments.

The most important ingredient of a make-up stick are the pigments that are in the System must be incorporated stable and represent the coloring component. When pigments are incorporated into emulsion sticks, there can be different results Instabilities are coming. In light cases, these are color inhomogeneities different pigments not evenly distributed in the pen. In more severe cases, it can to instabilities of the pen system, whereby heat stability and stability against Cancel will be affected.

That is why it is for an attractive make-up pencil (sensually attractive, optically impeccable and stable) it is important that all components of the system are coordinated are.

This includes both the combination of pigments and fillers as well as the suitable one Selection of emulsifiers, waxes and oils.

The publications cited above could not point the way to the present invention since it the pens mentioned here are not make-up pens (foundation sticks) Content is applied extensively to the face. Even the stability of the pens according to the invention is far superior to that of the previously described. they are significantly less sensitive to shear forces and remain in the entire temperature range stable and spreadable from -10 ° C to 53 ° C. Above all, they differ sensory properties of the pens of the invention from those in the above cited documents are disclosed.

It was therefore the object of the present invention, the shortcomings of the prior art to eliminate and manufacture stable make-up pencils with pleasant sensors.

• a) eine wässrige Phase, wobei der Wassergehalt 30 bis 85 Gew.-% und der Anteil mindestens eines Hautbefeuchtungsmittels 5 bis 50 Gew.-% des Gesamtgewichtes der Zubereitung ausmacht
• b) eine Fettphase, welche aus mindestens einer bei Raumtemperatur (20°C) flüssigen Ölkomponente und mindestens einer Wachskomponente enthält
• c) einen W/O-Emulgator oder ein Gemisch aus mehreren W/O-Emulgatoren, gewählt aus der Gruppe der grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen der allgemeinen Struktur A-B-A', wobei A und A' gleiche oder verschiedenen hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen und B eine hydrophile Gruppe bedeutet.
• d) einer Pigmentphase
• e) einer Füllstoffphase, welche zusammen mit den Pigmenten 10 bis 20 Gew.-% der Zubereitung ausmachen
• f) mindestens ein Konservierungsmittel

neben gegebenenfalls weiteren Wirk-, Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffen. Der Stift wird in einem hülsenförmigen Packmittelangeboten. Surprisingly, the object is achieved by containing cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up pencils

• a) an aqueous phase, the water content being 30 to 85% by weight and the proportion of at least one skin moisturizing agent making up 5 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the preparation
• b) a fat phase which contains at least one oil component which is liquid at room temperature (20 ° C.) and at least one wax component
• c) a W / O emulsifier or a mixture of several W / O emulsifiers selected from the group of surface-active substances of the general structure AB-A ', where A and A' represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals and B is a hydrophilic Group means.
• d) a pigment phase
• e) a filler phase, which together with the pigments make up 10 to 20% by weight of the preparation
• f) at least one preservative

in addition to any other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives. The pen is available in a sleeve-shaped packaging.

According to the invention, the use of is particularly preferred surface-treated pigments with those particularly stable and sensory attractive pens can be obtained.

The water content of the aqueous phase can be up to about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, usually optimal water contents in Range between 35 and 75 wt .-% can be selected. If desired, the The water content is below 10% by weight. But it’s a big advantage to equip pens according to the invention with a content of more than 10% by weight of water, particularly preferably in Range from 45 to 65 wt% water.

The skin moisturizing agent according to the invention is preferably selected from the group Glycerin, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, Lactic acid, sodium pyrolidone carboxylic acid, glycine, hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified Acids as well as urea and salts of metals of the first and second main group. Glycerin is particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the fat phase is advantageously selected from the group liquid at room temperature Lipids. These are lipids from the group of the branched and unbranched Hydrocarbons, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the Triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohol carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms.

The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group the synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as B. olive oil, Sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, Grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like. Of importance according to the invention are, for example, coconut glycerides (Myritol 331).

Lipids are furthermore preferably selected from the group of synthetic and natural Esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C-atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- Ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecylstearate, 2-octyldodecylpalmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, Erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of these Esters such as B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the constituents of the fat phase can advantageously be selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who described their production for the first time. They arise according to the reaction equation


by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of the allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are liquid even at low temperatures and practically cause no skin irritation. They can advantageously be used as greasing, over-greasing and also moisturizing components in skin and hair care products.

The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by their structure


out. R ₁ and R _{2 are} generally unbranched alkyl radicals.

According to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are advantageously selected from the group in which
R ₁ = propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and
R ₂ = hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.

Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are 2-butyloctanol - it has the chemical structure


and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 12 from Condea Chemie GmbH - and the 2-hexyldecanol - it has the chemical structure


and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 16 from Condea Chemie GmbH.

Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention are also according to the invention to use advantageously. Mixtures of 2-butyl octanol and 2-hexyl decanol are for example under the trade name Isofol® 14 from the company Condea Chemie GmbH available.

The total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished makeup pen formulation is advantageously selected from the range up to 25.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the pen.

Nonpolar oils are, for example, those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances. Table 1 below lists lipids which are advantageous according to the invention as individual substances or as a mixture with one another. The relevant interfacial tensions against water are given in the last column. However, it is also advantageous to use mixtures of higher and lower polar and the like. Table 1 lipids advantageous according to the invention

The fatty phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid trigiyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether or mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoyl isostearate are particularly advantageous isotridecyl.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated Polyisobutene or polydecene is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention use.

The oil components can advantageously be present in a content of 0.5 to 80% by weight on the total preparation, about 1 to 20% by weight are preferred.

Fat and / or wax components to be used advantageously according to the invention from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes can be selected.

It is further preferred if the wax component or all of the Wax components are selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or esters unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, from the group of Esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms if the Wax component or the entirety of the wax components at room temperature Represent solid bodies.

• - der Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 14 bis 44 C-Atomen und gesättigten verzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 14 bis 44 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,
• - der natürlichen Wachse,
• - der Diester von Polyolen und/oder C10-C80 Fettsäuren,
• - der ethoxylierten Wachse,
• - der Triglyceridwachse,
• - der C16-C60 Fettsäuren (bzw. deren Salze) und/oder C16-C80 Fettalkohole.

It is particularly preferred if the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group

• the ester of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,
• - natural waxes,
• - the diester of polyols and / or C10-C80 fatty acids,
• - the ethoxylated waxes,
• - the triglyceride waxes,
• - The C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols.

According to the invention, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, Sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea Butter, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, Ozokerite (earth wax), paraffin waxes and micro waxes, provided that the main claim required conditions are met.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C _16-36 fatty acid _triglyceride ) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C _18-36 fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH as well as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as B. hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C _20-40 alkyl stearate, C _20-40 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate.

The wax component or the entirety of the wax components of the W / O emulsion sticks according to the invention are preferably selected from the group of esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids a chain catcher of 14 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (e.g. 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms if the Wax component or the entirety of the wax components at room temperature represent a solid.

• - Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 14 bis 44 C-Atomen und gesättigten unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 14 bis 44 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,

und/oder der

• - Ester aus gesättigten unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 14 bis 44 C-Atomen und gesättigten verzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 14 bis 44 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen.

It is preferred to choose the wax components from the group of

• Esters of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are a solid at room temperature,

and / or the

• - Esters from saturated unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or the entirety of the wax components constitute a solid at room temperature.

It is particularly preferred to select the wax components from the group of the esters from saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 14 to 44 Carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components at Represent a solid at room temperature.

The wax components from the group of the C _{16-36 alkyl} stearates, the C _10-40 alkyl stearates, the C _20-40 alkyl isostearates, the C _20-40 dialkyl dimerates, the C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, the C _20-40 alkyl erucates can be selected, furthermore C _30-40 alkyl beeswax, cetearyl behenate.

The wax components can advantageously contain 0.5 to 80% by weight, based on the total preparation, about 1 to 20% by weight are preferred.

According to the invention, the wax components can be used both individually and in a mixture available. A wax fraction of 5 to 20% by weight is preferred. Prefers the waxes are to be selected from the group of the ester waxes, and are particularly preferred Ester waxes of long chain unbranched alkyl chains. It is also an advantage when the alkyl chains are of different chain lengths.

Any mixtures of oil and wax components can be advantageous in the sense of the present invention.

The ratio of oil and wax components to each other is advantageous approximately from the range of the weight ratios between 3: 1 to 1: 3, in particular 2: 1 to 1: 2.

The make-up sticks according to the invention can advantageously have one or more emulsifiers included, which are advantageously selected from the group of the following A-B-A 'surface-active substances.

• - A''' und A"" gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  - darstellt,
• - R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden, dass aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R³ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• - wobei die Reste A''' und A"" können gleich oder verschieden sein und gewählt werden aus der Gruppe
  
  
  
• - wobei R₈ und R₉ gleich oder verschieden sein können und gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 1-20 darstellt und Y eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  darstellt,
• - wobei R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-30 Kohlenstoffatomen.

It is preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of substances of the general formula


in which

• A '''and A "" represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  - represents
• R ¹ and R ^{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but not that both radicals simultaneously represent methyl,
• R ^{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,
• - wherein the radicals A '''and A "" can be the same or different and are selected from the group
  
  
  
• - wherein R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y is a single bond or the group
  
  
  represents,
• - wherein R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-30 carbon atoms.

In addition, the groups A ″ ″ and A ″ ″ independently of one another can also be alkyl radicals or Represent acyl residues.

The preferred stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and / or the methoxy PEG- 22 / Dodecyl glycol copolymer used.

• - A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, insbesondere 5 bis 40 darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander so gewählt werden H, Methyl, dass aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen,

oder dass der oder die W/O-Co-Emulgatoren gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Fettalkohole mit 8-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, Monoglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Monoglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Propylenglycolester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester von Polyolen, insbesondere des Glycerins, Pentaerythritylester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C- Atomen, Polyglycerin Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen oder dass die vorstehend genannten Typen von W/O-Emulgatoren zusätzlich in der Weise polyethoxyliert und/oder polypropoxyliert sind, dass sie ethoxylierte und/oder propopoxylierte W/O-Emulgatoren darstellen. It is also advantageous if it additionally contains co-emulsifiers which are selected from the group of substances of the general formula


in which

• A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another such as H, methyl, but that not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl,
• R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,

or that the W / O co-emulsifiers are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C. -Atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters with saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24 , in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ether sat cured and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12- 18 carbon atoms, polyglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, especially the Glycerol, pentaerythrityl ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids of a K Chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, methyl glucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they are ethoxylated and / or or propopoxylated W / O emulsifiers.

It is particularly preferred if the W / O co-emulsifier or the W / O co-emulsifiers are chosen such that the radicals A and A 'are advantageously chosen from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl residues and hydroxyacyl residues with 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups which are linked to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme.


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

It is very particularly preferred if the co-emulsifier (s) are selected from the group decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8 distearate, diglycerin Dipolyhydroxystearate.

The use of an emulsifier / co-emulsifier has proven particularly suitable. Mixture proven in the range of 1 to 8 wt .-%, is particularly preferred Use concentration of 26%. The ratios of emulsifier to co- Emulsifier preferably selected from 1: 0 to 1: 1.

The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorisfs, Bradford, England, 1971.

The use of inorganic color pigments such as red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate, ultraman, chromium oxide and chromium hydroxide, Iron hexacyanoferrate and titanium dioxide.

Preparations according to the invention contain a titanium dioxide which is both in the Crystal modification rutile as well as anatase can be present and in the sense of the present Invention is advantageously treated on the surface ("coated"), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character are formed or retained should. This surface treatment can consist of the pigments as such known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer. The different For the purposes of the present invention, surface coatings can also be water contain.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), zirconium oxide (ZrO ₂ ) or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

For this purpose, oxides, oxide hydrates or phosphates, for example of the elements Al, Si, Zr struck the pigment surface in dense layers.

The inorganic aftertreatment generally takes place in an aqueous one Suspension of the pigment by adding soluble after-treatment chemicals, such as z. B. aluminum sulfate, and subsequent precipitation of the neutral range Poorly soluble hydroxide through targeted adjustment of the pH with sodium hydroxide solution. After the inorganic aftertreatment, the coated pigments are passed through Filtration separated from the suspension and washed thoroughly to remove the dissolved Remove salts, then the isolated pigments are dried.

For the purposes of this invention, particular preference is given to titanium dioxides Aluminum hydroxide has been applied to the surface, such as. B. Sun Chemical available titanium dioxide types C47-051 and C4-5157. Still preferred Pigments are titanium dioxide, which are coated with aluminum and / or silicon oxides, such as z. B. from Krosnos Titan: Kronos 1071 and 1075 or from Kingfisher: A310.03 Tudor Aspen.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal Stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), Simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average Chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. This organic surface coatings can be used alone, in combination and / or in Combination with inorganic coating materials occur.

• - "Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und
• - "Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen),

monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCl),
Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer/Metalloxid Furthermore, it can be advantageous to use pearlescent pigments according to the invention. These include natural pearlescent pigments such as B.

• - "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and
• - "mother-of-pearl" (milled mussel shells),

monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl),
Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or Castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Z is particularly advantageous. B. under the CIN 77163 listed gloss pigment.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

Particularly preferred are those from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona available pearlescent pigments.

The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention can be obtained in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. Z are advantageous. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It can also be advantageous to completely do without a substrate such as mica. Pearlescent pigments which are produced using SiO ₂ are particularly preferred. Such pigments, which can also have gonichromatic effects, are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico from BASF.

Pigments from Engelhard / Mearl based on calcium can also be advantageous Sodium borosilicate coated with titanium dioxide can be used. These are below available under the name Reflecks. They have a particle size of 40-180 µm in addition to the color a glitter effect.

The dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in a mixture and be mutually coated with one another, with different Coating thicknesses are generally caused by different color effects. The The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageous from the Range of z. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, chosen in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the Preparations.

Fillers in the sense of the present invention are particulate substances which in the Usually do not produce a color effect in the cosmetic formulation in which they are made be used. Furthermore, fillers according to the invention usually have one low refractive index and, as a result, no or very little Opacity.

The prior art knows a number of fillers, which, for. B. as Carrier materials in the formulation of powders or as viscosity and sensor technology Serve modulators in emulsions or anhydrous formulations. such Fillers are also often used to create matting effects on the skin obtain or to absorb sebum.

In addition, the use of fillers generally also affects Spreadability of common formulations on the skin and the uniformity of a possible color effect.

The fillers for the purposes of the present invention are advantageously selected from the group the inorganic fillers selected, for example from the group of silicates.

Silicates are salts and esters (silicic acid esters) of orthosilicic acid [Si (OH) ₄ ] and their condensation products. The silicates are not only the most biodiverse class of minerals, but also extremely important geologically and technically. Over 80% of the earth's crust consists of silicates.

Layer silicates, for example, are advantageous in the sense of the present invention. Layered silicates (phyllosilicates, leaf silicates) are (ideally) silicate structures with two-dimensionally infinite layers of (SiO ₄ ] ^4- tetrahedra, each tetrahedron being connected to neighboring tetrahedra via 3 bridging oxygen.

Chemical formulas can only be approximated for layered silicates because they have a large ion exchange capacity and silicon can be exchanged for aluminum and this in turn for magnesium, Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Zn and the like. The possibly resulting negative charge of the layers is generally compensated for by cations, in particular by Na ⁺ and Ca ²⁺ in interlayer positions.

Layered silicates can be removed by reversible storage of water (in the 2- to 7- times the amount) and other substances such. B. alcohols, glycols and such swell more. Their use as cosmetic thickeners Accordingly, means are known per se. However, the state of the art do not point the way to the present invention.

Advantageous layered silicates, which are used in the sense of the present invention can be, for example, those whose largest direction of expansion in unmodified and unswollen state on average less than a length Has 10 µm. For example, the average dimensions of the used modified layered silicate particles at 1000 nm × 100 nm × 1 nm and below. The effective size of the modified layered silicate particles in a cosmetic or dermatological formulation of course depends on the amount stored substances.

• - Talkum: Mg₃ [Si₄O₁₀](OH)₂,
• - Kaolin: A12[Si₂O₅](OH)₄
• - Montmorillonit: M⁺ Al[Si₂O₅](OH), auch Smektite genannt. Darunter fallen:
• - Bentonite = Montmorillonite mit Ca (Fuller Erden) oder Na (Wyoming Bentonite)
• - Hektorite: M⁺ _0,3(Mg_2,7Li_0,3}[Si₄O₁₀(OH)₂], worin M⁺ meist Na⁺ darstellt,
• - Glimmer (Mica), ein Alumosilikat, das leicht spaltbar ist und in tafeligen Kristallen vorliegt. Glimmer ist transparent bis durchscheinend und weist Perlglanz auf. Die wichtigste Form ist Muskovit: K Al₂ [AlSi₃O₁₀](OH,F)₂. Sericite ist eine Sonderform des Glimmers, die kleinere Plättchen als Muskovit aufweist.

(Layered) silicates which are advantageous according to the invention are in particular:

• Talc: Mg ₃ [Si ₄ O ₁₀ ] (OH) ₂ ,
• - Kaolin: A12 [Si ₂ O ₅ ] (OH) ₄
• - Montmorillonite: M ⁺ Al [Si ₂ O ₅ ] (OH), also called smectites. This includes:
• - Bentonite = Montmorillonite with Ca (Fuller earth) or Na (Wyoming Bentonite)
• Hectorites: M ⁺ _0.3 (Mg _2.7 Li _0.3 } [Si ₄ O ₁₀ (OH) ₂ ], in which M ⁺ mostly represents Na ⁺ ,
• - Mica (mica), an aluminosilicate that is easily split and is present in tabular crystals. Mica is transparent to translucent and pearlescent. The most important form is muscovite: K Al ₂ [AlSi ₃ O ₁₀ ] (OH, F) ₂ . Sericite is a special form of mica that has smaller platelets than muscovite.

Silicon oxides (SiO ₂ ) can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. According to the invention, preference is given, for example, to aerosils (fumed silica), which are highly disperse silicas with a frequently irregular shape, the specific surface area of which is generally very large (200-400 m ² / g) and can be controlled using the production process. Aerosils are also referred to as: Amorphous Silica Amorphous Silicon Oxide Hydrate Silica, Amorphous Silicic Anhydride Silicon Dioxide Silicon Dioxide.

Aerosils which are advantageous according to the invention are e.g. B. available under the following trade names:
Aerosil 130 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil 200 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil 255 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil 300 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil 380 (Degussa Hüls), B-6C (Suzuki Yushi), CAB-O-SIL fumed silica (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL EH-5 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL HS-5 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL LM-130 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL MS-55 (Cabot ), CAB-O-SIL M-5 (Cabot), E- 6C (Suzuki Yushi), Fossil Flour MBK (MBK), MSS-500 (Kobo), Neosil CT 11 (Crosfield Co.), Ronasphere (Rona / EM Industries), Silica, Anhydrous 31 (Whittaker, Clark & Daniels), Silica, Crystalline 216 (Whittaker, Clark & Daniels), Silotrat-1 (Vevy), Sorbosil AC33 (Crosfield Co.), Sorbosil AC 35 (Crosfield Co.) , Sorbosil AC 37 (Crosfield Co.), Sorbosil AC 39 (Crosfield Co.), Sorbosil AC77 (Crosfield Co.), Sorbosil TC 15 (Crosfield Co.), Spherica (lkeda), Spheriglass (Potters-Ballotini), Spheron L -1500 (Presperse), Spheron N-2000 (Presperse), Spheron P-1500 (Presperse), Wacker HDK H 30 (Wacker-Chemie), Wacker HDK N 20 (Wacker-Chemie), Wacker HDK P 100 H (Wacker Silicones ) Wacker HDK N 20P (Wacker-Chemie), Wacker HDK N 25P (Wacker-Chemie), Wacker HDK S 13 (Wacker-Chemie), Wacker HDK T 30 (Wacker-Chemie), Wacker HDK V 15 (Wacker-Chemie), Wacker HDK V 15 P (Wacker-Chemie), Zelec Sil (DuPont).

Silicon oxides can also be produced in a spherical form, the here specific surface area is smaller than that of aerosils because the particles are larger and are round. An example of this are the ronaspheres (average particle diameter < 3 µ) from Merck. Your use is preferred.

Further preferred fillers according to the invention are silicon dioxide, the free OH Groups on the particle surface are (partially or completely) organically modified.

Z are advantageous. B. the by addition of dimethylsilyl groups obtainable silica dimethyl silylates, such as Aerosil R972 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil R974 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-610 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL TS-720 (Cabot), Wacker HDK H15 (Wacker-Chemie), Wacker HDK H18 (Wacker-Chemie) and / or Wacker HDK H ₂ O (Wacker-Chemie).

The silicas obtainable by adding trimethylsilyl groups are also advantageous Silylates (e.g. Aerosil R 812 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-530 (Cabot), Sipernat D 17 (Degussa Hüls), Wacker HDK H2000 (Wacker-Chemie)).

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are those obtained by hydrolysis and Condensation reactions available from methyltrimethoxysilanes Polymethylsilsesquioxane, which also have a round shape and their Particle size distribution can be controlled by the production.

Preferred polymethylsilsesquioxanes are, for example, among the Trade names Tospearl 2000 B from GE Bayer Silicones, Tospearl 145A from Toshiba, AEC Silicone Resin Spheres from A & E Connock and Wacker - Belsil PMS MK from the Wacker-Chemie offered.

Another advantageous filler for the purposes of the present invention is boron nitride. Is boron nitride isoelectronic with carbon (i.e. graphite and diamond shapes are possible). boron nitride is characterized by its chemical inertness.

Advantageous in the sense of the present invention are, for example, the following. listed boron nitride:
trade name Available at Boron nitride powder Advanced Ceramics Boron nitride powder Sintec ceramics Ceram Blanche Kawasaki HCST Boron Nitride strongly Très BN® Carborundum Wacker boron nitride BNP Wacker-Chemie

The fillers in the sense of the present invention are also advantageous selected from the group of organic fillers.

Organic fillers advantageous according to the invention are e.g. B. natural polymers such as Silk powder, microcrystalline cellulose and / or zinc stearates.

• - Maisstärke Zea Mays (Amidon De Mais MST (Wackherr), Argo Brand Corn Starch (Corn Products), Pure-Dent (Grain Processing), Purity 21C (National Starch)),
• - Reisstärke (D.S.A. 7 (Agrana Stärke), Oryzapearl (Ichimaru Pharcos)),
• - Distarch Phosphate (Corn PO4 (Agrana Stärke), Corn PO4 (Tri-K)),
• - Sodium Corn Starch Octenylsuccinate (C* EmCap - Instant 12639 (Cerestar USA)),
• - Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate (Covafluid AMD (Wackherr), Dry Flo-PC (National Starch), Dry Flo Pure (National Starch), Fluidamid DF 12 (Roquette)).

Advantageous organic fillers are also starch and starch derivatives, such as:

• - Zea Mays maize starch (Amidon De Mais MST (Wackherr), Argo Brand Corn Starch (Corn Products), Pure-Dent (Grain Processing), Purity 21C (National Starch)),
• - rice starch (DSA 7 (Agrana starch), Oryzapearl (Ichimaru Pharcos)),
• - Distarch Phosphate (Corn PO4 (Agrana starch), Corn PO4 (Tri-K)),
• - Sodium Corn Starch Octenylsuccinate (C * EmCap - Instant 12639 (Cerestar USA)),
• - Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (Covafluid AMD (Wackherr), Dry Flo-PC (National Starch), Dry Flo Pure (National Starch), Fluidamid DF 12 (Roquette)).

Organic fillers preferred according to the invention are also synthetic polymers, d. H. Polymer particles which are present in the preparation in the form of solids, such as polycarbonates, polyethers, polyethylene, polypropylene, Polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, polyamides, polyurethanes, polyacrylates and the like more. Z is particularly advantageous. B. the substance with the INCl name HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, which under the name BPD- 500 / Plastic Powder D is available from Kobo.

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention is nylon (polyamide 6 and Polyamide 12), such as microfine polyamide particles, in particular the available under the trade name SP-500 from TORAY. Further Polyamide 6- (also: Nylon 6) or polyamide 12- (also: Nylon 12) are advantageous, Particle. Polyamide 6 is made of ε-aminocaproic acid (6-aminohexanoic acid), or ε- Caprolactam built polyamide [poly (ε-caprolactam)], and polyamide 12 is a Poly (ε-laurine lactam), from ε-laurine lactam. Advantageous in the sense of the present Invention are, for example, Orgasol® 1002 (polyamide 6) and Orgasol® 2002 (Polyamide 12), from the company ELF ATOCHEM.

• - PMMA: Polymethylmethacrylate
• - Polyethylene Spheres
• - Polyurethane
• - Silikon Resins: Trimethylsiloxysilicate (z. B. SR 1000 GE Bayer Silicones)
• - Silikonelastomere
• - Polytetrafluorethyen (PTFE)

Other advantageous organic fillers are:

• - PMMA: polymethyl methacrylate
• - Polyethylene spheres
• - polyurethanes
• - Silicone Resins: Trimethylsiloxysilicate (e.g. SR 1000 GE Bayer Silicones)
• - silicone elastomers
• - Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)

So it can e.g. B. be of considerable advantage in such silicone elastomers To use preparations according to the present invention as they described, for example, in US Patents US 4,980,167 or US 4,742,142 become. Advantageous silicone elastomers are also e.g. B. those which under the Names KSG6 from Shin Etsu, Tefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow Corning, Gransil by Grant Industries (SR-CYC, SR-DMF10, SR-DC556) as well as those that are sold in the form of pre-made gels (such as KSG15, KSG17, KSG16, KSG18 from Shin Etsu, Gransil SP SCYC Gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 Gel, Gransil SR DC 556 Gel, Gransil GCM, Gransil PM Gel, Gransil DMG-5, SF 1204 and JK 113 from Gereral-Electric). Other advantageous silicone elastomers can are selected from the group of vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers, such as. B. that Dow Corning 9506 Cosmetic Powder from Dow Corning (INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone cross polymer).

So-called silicone resins, such as, for. B. KSP-100, KSP-200 or KSP-300 from Shin Etsu, also under the INCI designation Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer or SR 1000 from GE Bayer Silicones, which carries the INCI name Trimethylsiloxy Silicate.

Also preferred is Lauroyl Lysine, which is called Amihope LL is distributed by Ajinomoto.

The total amount of at least one filler in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations are advantageously used in the range from 0.05-20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparations.

Other preferred inorganic silicon compounds include the other the surface of organically modified spherical particles. Of these, the polymethylsilsesquioxanes and hydrophobic are particularly preferred modified aerosils, e.g. B. Aerosil R 972.

The preferred organic silicon compounds include the siloxanes Elastomers and siloxane resins. Of these, the KSP types are particularly preferred from Shin Etsu, as well as the trimethylsiloxysilicate.

Further fillers preferred according to the invention come from the group of spherical particles. The average particle diameter is particularly preferred smaller than 20 µm. Furthermore, spherical particles with a are preferred average particle diameter less than 10 µm. Of these are particularly preferred Nylon-12, e.g. B. is sold as SP-501 or SP-500 by Kobo. Also preferred are methyl methacrylates, which, for. B. under the trade name Covabead LH 85 is distributed by LCW.

Lauroyl lysine and bismuth oxychloride can also preferably be used.

According to the invention, it is also necessary to add preservatives to the make-up stick. Preservatives approved in food technology, which are listed below with their E number, can advantageously be used according to the invention.

Furthermore, according to the invention, preservatives or are customary in cosmetics Preservation aids dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), 3-iodo-2- propynyl butyl carbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinyl urea, 5-chloro-2- methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol are suitable. Formaldehyde donors.

According to the invention, these are preservatives or are common in cosmetics Preservation aids, as they are also listed in the cosmetics catalog. Are particularly preferably used 3-iodo-2-propynylbutylcarbamate midazolidinyl urea, diazolinidyl urea (e.g. available from ISP Sutton Laboratories under the trade name Germall II), 5-chloro-2-methyl-4- isothiazolin-3-one and 2-methyl-4-isothiazolon, which as a mixture under the trade names Kathon CG and Rokonsal S1 are sold, 1,3-dimethyloyl-5,5-dimethylhydantoin, which is sold solely by the Lonza company under the name Glydant or in mixing with 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate under the name Glydant Plus, 2- Also phenylhydroxyalkyl ethers, especially those under the name Phenoxyethanol known compound due to its bactericidal and fungicidal Effects on a number of microorganisms useful as preservatives. Also preferred is silver chloride, which z. B. from Johnson Matthey as Mixture with titanium dioxide is sold under the name JM Acticare.

Other antimicrobial agents are also suitable in the inventive Preparations to be incorporated. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'- Trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasane), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (Chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, Thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and the in the patent documents DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-43 09 372, DE-44 11 664, DE-195 41 967, DE-195 43 695, DE-195 43 696, DE-195 47 160, DE-196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE-196 02 111, DE-196 31 003, DE-196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patents DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 24 219, Active substances described in DE-44 29 467, DE-44 23 410 and DE-195 16 705 or Drug combinations. Sodium hydrogen carbonate can also be used advantageously.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can Contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as they are usually used in such preparations be, e.g. As perfumes, UV filters, thickeners, or other common ingredients cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

An additional level of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention can be used as cheap antioxidants all for cosmetic and / or dermatological Applications suitable or customary antioxidants can be used.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up stick according to the invention is thereby characterized that it can be brushed and brushed in a temperature range from -10 ° C to 50 ° C is storable.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up stick according to the invention is According to the invention advantageously packed in a pencil sleeve, the top and bottom on both sides can be filled. This pen sleeve can be filled at a casting temperature of 90 ° C. such Pen sleeves are offered, for example, by the Laffon company.

Furthermore, according to the invention there is a pencil sleeve for cosmetic and / or dermatological Preparations containing a cosmetic make-up preparation as described in this document is described.

Last but not least, the make-up stick according to the invention is used as a make-up stick for Face and cheeks (foundation) which can be applied evenly and one According to the invention has a cooling and nourishing effect.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Claims (10)

1. Containing cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up pencil a) an aqueous phase, the water content being 30 to 85% by weight and the proportion of at least one skin moisturizing agent making up 5 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the preparation b) a fat phase which contains at least one oil component which is liquid at room temperature (20 ° C.) and at least one wax component. c) a W / O emulsifier or a mixture of several W / O emulsifiers selected from the group of surface-active substances of the general structure AB-A ', where A and A' represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals and B is a hydrophilic Group means. d) a pigment phase e) a filler phase which, together with the pigment phase, makes up 10 to 20% by weight of the preparation f) at least one preservative in addition to any other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives. 2. Cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up stick according to claim 1 containing a) an aqueous phase in a concentration of 35 to 75% by weight, b) fillers in a concentration of 15 to 20% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the stick preparation. 3. Cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up stick according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that ester waxes are used as waxes. 4. Cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up stick according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it is in a temperature range from -10 ° C to 50 ° C is spreadable and storable. 5. Cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up stick according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that coated pigments are used as pigments. 6. Cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up stick according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the pin is in a sleeve-shaped packaging is offered. 7. Cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up stick according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the pin sleeve can be filled on both sides from above and below is. 8. Cosmetic and / or dermatological make-up stick according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the pen sleeve can be filled at a temperature of 90 ° C. is. 9. pencil sleeve for cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing one Cosmetic make-up preparation according to one of claims 1 to 8. 10. Use of a make-up pencil according to one of the preceding claims as Makeup stick for face and cheeks (foundation) which can be applied evenly and has a cooling and nourishing effect.