CN211771924U - Mongolian robe collar waterway process template - Google Patents
Mongolian robe collar waterway process template Download PDFInfo
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- CN211771924U CN211771924U CN202020100002.9U CN202020100002U CN211771924U CN 211771924 U CN211771924 U CN 211771924U CN 202020100002 U CN202020100002 U CN 202020100002U CN 211771924 U CN211771924 U CN 211771924U
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Abstract
Description
技术领域technical field
本实用新型涉及一种服装工艺模板,特别是涉及一种蒙古袍领子水路工艺模板。The utility model relates to a garment craft template, in particular to a Mongolian robe collar waterway craft template.
背景技术Background technique
在内蒙古,男女老幼一年四季都喜欢穿长袍,俗称"蒙古袍"。春秋穿夹袍,夏季穿单袍,冬季穿皮袍、棉袍。男袍一般都比较肥大,女袍则比较紧身,以显示出女子身材的苗条和健美。其式样和颜色因地因人而略有差异。一般蒙古袍的特点是宽大袖长、高领、右衽,多数地区下端不开衩。袍子的边沿、袖口、领口多以绸缎花边、"盘肠"、"云卷"图案或虎、豹、水獭、貂鼠等皮毛装饰。既美观大方,又具有良好的实用功能。蒙古袍是蒙古族传统文化的精髓之一,2004年被列入国家民族民间保护工程试点项目,2008年被列入国家级非物质文化遗产名录。但是,目前,仍然缺少供在工业平缝机上批量制作成衣的蒙古袍领子水路工艺模板。In Inner Mongolia, men and women, old and young, like to wear robes all year round, commonly known as "Mongolian robes". In the spring and autumn, the jacket is worn, the single robe is worn in summer, and the leather and cotton robes are worn in winter. Men's robes are generally fatter, while women's robes are tighter to show a woman's slenderness and fitness. Its style and color vary slightly from place to place and from person to person. Generally, Mongolian robes are characterized by wide sleeves, high collars, and right slits. Most areas do not have slits at the bottom. The edges, cuffs, and necklines of the robes are mostly decorated with satin lace, "coiled intestines", "cloud rolls" patterns, or furs such as tigers, leopards, otters, and ermines. Both beautiful and elegant, but also has good practical functions. Mongolian robes are one of the quintessence of Mongolian traditional culture. However, at present, there is still a lack of Mongolian robe collar waterway craft templates for batch production of ready-made garments on industrial lockstitch machines.
发明内容SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
本实用新型目的在于克服现有技术的上述缺陷,提供一种蒙古袍领子水路工艺模板。The purpose of the utility model is to overcome the above-mentioned defects of the prior art, and provide a Mongolian gown collar waterway craft template.
为实现上述目的,本实用新型蒙古袍领子水路工艺模板由领子水路工艺模板底层板和中间夹层板及表层板组成;底层板和中间夹层板及表层板的基板都是大于领子的,大小相同的,上边为直角下边为圆角的横长型PVC板;在底层板基板正面画出中部含有用于领子裁片放置的定位净结构部分,且使领子裁片上边朝下的毛样板区,在毛样板区开制与领子的上边沿曲度一致,并且保证顺滑、宽度一致的横长U型缝纫槽,在横长U型缝纫槽外侧的毛样板区设置用于固定领子裁片的砂纸条线和在砂纸条线外侧设置用于阻拦领子裁片的海绵条线;中间夹层板及表层板的基板也在其同样位置开制同样的横长U型缝纫槽;中间夹层板基板正面设置水路条固定用双面胶条线及水路条阻挡用海绵条线,背面设置领子裁片固定用的砂纸条线;表层板基板正面设置水路条稳固用砂纸条线。设置方式优选粘固。横长U型缝纫槽宽度为0.3cm。考虑到缝制领子部位的水路时,所需的裁片为两片,因此模板总体设计三层:表层板、中间夹层板、底层板,材料为PVC板,表层和底层使用厚度为0.3mm的板,中间夹层板使用材质较薄的板材,厚度为0.15mm。板材的大小根据裁片的大小进行设置,一般在裁片大小的基础上向外加放5cm左右。在底层板的板材上画出领片带有净结构线的毛样板,作为领子裁片放置的定位净结构的部分为图中有阴影的部分;板材的大小为:在领子毛样板的基础上,横向放出5cm、竖向放出3cm。三层板材的大小相同。领子的水路在进行缝制时,缝迹线曲度需要与领子的上边沿曲度一致,并且保证顺滑、宽度一致;同时考虑到领子的结构特点,故而选择领子上边缘的净结构线作为开槽位。底层板上需要放置领子裁片,因此在开槽位的下方、领片毛样板的缝份处加装海绵条与砂纸,对领片的裁片进行固定和阻拦。In order to achieve the above purpose, the Mongolian gown collar waterway process template of the present utility model is composed of a collar waterway process template bottom plate, an intermediate sandwich plate and a surface plate; , the upper side is a horizontally long PVC board with a right angle and a rounded lower side; on the front of the bottom plate substrate, draw the middle part that contains the positioning net structure part for the placement of the collar pieces, and make the upper side of the collar pieces face down. The wool pattern area is made with a horizontal U-shaped sewing groove that is consistent with the curvature of the upper edge of the collar, and ensures smooth and consistent width. The wool pattern area outside the horizontal U-shaped sewing groove is provided with sand for fixing the collar pieces. The paper strip line and the sponge strip line for blocking the collar pieces are set outside the sandpaper strip line; the base plate of the middle sandwich board and the surface board are also cut with the same horizontal and long U-shaped sewing groove at the same position; the base plate of the middle sandwich board The front side is provided with double-sided adhesive strips for fixing the waterway strips and the sponge strips for blocking the waterway strips, and the back side is provided with sandpaper strips for fixing the collar pieces; the front side of the surface board substrate is provided with sandpaper strips for stabilizing the waterway strips. The setting method is preferably cemented. The width of the horizontal U-shaped sewing groove is 0.3cm. Considering that when sewing the waterway of the collar, two pieces are required, so the template is generally designed with three layers: the surface board, the middle sandwich board, and the bottom board. The material is PVC board, and the surface layer and bottom layer are made of 0.3mm thick Board, the middle sandwich board uses thin material, the thickness is 0.15mm. The size of the plate is set according to the size of the piece, generally about 5cm is placed outward on the basis of the size of the piece. Draw a collar piece with a net structure line on the board of the bottom board, and the part where the collar piece is placed to locate the net structure is the shaded part in the figure; the size of the board is: on the basis of the collar wool pattern , 5cm horizontally and 3cm vertically. The three-layer boards are the same size. When the waterway of the collar is sewn, the curvature of the stitching line needs to be consistent with the curvature of the upper edge of the collar, and ensure smoothness and consistent width; at the same time, considering the structural characteristics of the collar, the net structure line on the upper edge of the collar is selected as the slotted bit. The collar pieces need to be placed on the bottom plate, so add sponge strips and sandpaper at the bottom of the slot and the seam allowance of the collar piece wool pattern to fix and block the collar pieces.
使用本新型模板缝制的水路线条圆顺流畅,各部位距离宽窄一致,略有不足的地方为缝制出的水路宽度相较于传统工艺缝制出来的水路宽度较宽,但是形成的风格较为活泼大方,传统工艺制作的水路,风格较为优雅。使用模板缝制时操作便捷、迅速,无障碍;与传统的缝制工艺技法相比,较为省时省力,因为模板已经将水路条的位置定好,因此缝制前在领片上绘制缝迹线的这一准备工作即可省略,能够压缩制作时间;且对于操作人员的缝制工艺水平要求不高,但因为领片存在一定的曲线,缝制时对熟练程度也有一定的要求,因此如果使用模板制作,前期也需要对工人进行一定的培训,这样才能保证实际生产时的效率和质量。具有能够显示提高蒙古袍领子水路制作效率和质量的优点。The water lines sewn by the new template are round and smooth, and the distance between each part is the same. The slight deficiency is that the width of the sewn waterway is wider than that of the waterway sewn by the traditional process, but the style formed is relatively Lively and generous, the waterway made by traditional craftsmanship is more elegant in style. When using the template to sew, the operation is convenient, fast and barrier-free; compared with the traditional sewing technique, it is more time-saving and labor-saving, because the template has already set the position of the waterway strip, so the sewing line is drawn on the collar piece before sewing. This preparation work can be omitted, which can compress the production time; and the sewing technology level of the operator is not high, but because the collar has a certain curve, there are also certain requirements for proficiency in sewing, so if a template is used In the early stage of production, workers also need to be trained to a certain extent, so as to ensure the efficiency and quality of the actual production. The invention has the advantages of improving the efficiency and quality of the waterway production of Mongolian robe collars.
作为优化,底层板基板和表层板基板的厚度大于中间夹层板基板厚度。底层板基板和表层板基板的厚度为中间夹层板基板厚度的两倍左右。底层板基板和表层板基板的厚度为0.3cm,中间夹层板基板厚度为0.15mm。As an optimization, the thickness of the bottom layer substrate and the surface layer substrate is greater than the thickness of the intermediate sandwich plate substrate. The thickness of the bottom layer substrate and the surface layer substrate is about twice the thickness of the intermediate sandwich substrate. The thickness of the bottom layer substrate and the surface layer substrate is 0.3 cm, and the thickness of the intermediate sandwich panel substrate is 0.15 mm.
作为优化,所述定位净结构是以净结构线作为领子裁片放置的定位净结构部分的标示。净结构线为阴影线。中间夹层的正面需固定住水路条,背面需要对下方的领片也起到一定的固定作用。开槽位与底层板的相同,形状位置一致;中间夹层的正面要对水路条进行固定,因此在开槽位的下方加装一道海绵条、一道双面胶,在开槽位的上方加装一道双面胶起到固定作用,使用双面胶是因为水路条表面积相对来说较小,使用砂纸和海绵条无法固定充分;且在开槽位上下都使用双面胶,使得水路条能够固定的更加牢固。根据底层板上领片结构线中领底线的缝份,在中间夹层板的背面相应位置加装砂纸条,对底层放置的领片起到夹持固定的作用。As an optimization, the locating net structure is an indication of the locating net structure part where the net structure line is placed as the collar panel. Net structure lines are hatched. The front side of the middle interlayer needs to fix the waterway strip, and the back side also needs to play a certain role in fixing the collar piece below. The slotted position is the same as that of the bottom board, and the shape and position are the same; the front of the middle interlayer needs to fix the waterway strip, so a sponge strip and a double-sided tape are installed below the slotted position, and installed above the slotted position. A double-sided tape is used for fixing. The double-sided tape is used because the surface area of the waterway strip is relatively small, and the sandpaper and sponge strips cannot be sufficiently fixed; and double-sided tape is used above and below the slotted position, so that the waterway strip can be fixed. more solid. According to the seam allowance of the collar bottom line in the collar piece structure line on the bottom plate, sandpaper strips are installed at the corresponding positions on the back of the intermediate sandwich board to clamp and fix the collar pieces placed on the bottom layer.
作为优化,中间夹层板基板正面在其横长U型缝纫槽外侧和内侧分别设置顺向分布的水路条固定用双面胶条线,并在其横长U型缝纫槽外侧水路条固定用双面胶条线的外侧设置顺向分布的海绵条线;中间夹层板基板背面在对应底层板基板的毛样板区上边部设置用于固定领子裁片下边的砂纸条线。As an optimization, the front of the intermediate sandwich board is provided with double-sided tape lines for fixing the waterway strips on the outside and inside of the horizontally long U-shaped sewing groove, respectively, and double-sided tapes for fixing the waterway strips on the outside of the horizontally long U-shaped sewing groove. The outer side of the surface rubber strip line is provided with a sponge strip line distributed in the same direction; the back of the intermediate sandwich board substrate is provided with a sandpaper strip line for fixing the lower edge of the collar cut at the upper edge of the wool pattern area corresponding to the bottom board substrate.
作为优化,中间夹层板基板正面在其横长U型缝纫槽中横段上面和任一侧边段内侧,或者在其缝纫槽内侧周设置顺向分布的水路条固定用双面胶条线。As an optimization, the front surface of the intermediate sandwich panel substrate is provided with double-sided tape lines for fixing waterway strips distributed along the upper surface of the transverse section of the horizontally long U-shaped sewing groove and inside of any side edge section, or on the inner circumference of the sewing groove.
作为优化,用于固定领子裁片下边的砂纸条线设置在中间夹层板基板背面对应底层板基板的定位净结构部分上方的毛样板区上边缘部,或者设置中间夹层板基板背面的横长U型缝纫槽的上口处。As an optimization, the sandpaper strip used to fix the lower edge of the collar piece is set on the upper edge of the rough pattern area on the back of the intermediate sandwich panel substrate corresponding to the positioning net structure part of the bottom panel substrate, or the horizontal length of the back of the intermediate sandwich panel substrate is set. The upper opening of the U-shaped sewing groove.
作为优化,在表层板基板正面在对应底层板基板的毛样板区上边部设置用于稳固水路条的砂纸条线。As an optimization, sandpaper strips for stabilizing the waterway strips are arranged on the front side of the surface board substrate at the upper edge of the rough pattern area corresponding to the bottom board substrate.
作为优化,用于稳定水路条的砂纸条线设置在表层板基板正面对应底层板基板的定位净结构部分上方的毛样板区上边缘部,或者设置在表层板基板正面的横长U型缝纫槽的上口处。表层板主要的作用是夹持水路条。开槽位与底层板、中间夹层板的槽位位置相同、形状一致;在槽位的上方加装砂纸条,对固定在中间夹层板的水路条起到稳固的作用,能够更好的保证水路条在缝制时不变形。As an optimization, the sandpaper strips for stabilizing the waterway strips are arranged on the upper edge of the rough pattern area on the front of the surface board substrate corresponding to the positioning net structure part of the bottom board substrate, or on the horizontally long U-shaped sewing on the front side of the surface board substrate. at the top of the slot. The main function of the surface plate is to hold the waterway strip. The slot position is the same as that of the bottom board and the middle sandwich board, and the shape is the same; the sandpaper strip is installed above the slot to play a stable role in the waterway strip fixed on the middle sandwich board, which can better ensure The waterway strip is not deformed during sewing.
作为优化,所述毛样板区边缘与底层板基板边缘横向的最小边距为5厘米,竖向最小边距为3厘米。As an optimization, the minimum horizontal distance between the edge of the wool pattern area and the edge of the base plate substrate is 5 cm, and the minimum vertical distance is 3 cm.
作为优化,毛样板区上边中部向上弧形凸出,下边中部向上弧形凹进。完成具体的设计后的下一步为工艺模板实物的制作:要求成品能够符合设计要求、精准完成缝制工作。制作模板所需要的面板材料为PVC板,辅助的固定材料需要准备海绵条、砂纸条、双面胶,以及连接每一层模板所使用的胶带。制作模板所需要的工具有:刻刀、大头针、定位针等等。制作模板时,较为重要的步骤是切割缝纫槽,切割位置根据设计好的开槽位进行,切割模板一般使用专门的切割设备,分为两种:铣刀切割和激光切割,根据制作需要选择切割机器。进行缝纫槽切割之前,首先需要将模板的设计图输入到切割机当中,切割机会根据设计图数据进行切割。模板主体的开槽工作完成之后,需要人工将辅助材料加装到模板的相应部位上,加装时需要注意位置,加装辅助材料部位的精确程度会影响使用模板缝制的效果。As an optimization, the middle part of the upper edge of the wool pattern area is convex in an upward arc, and the middle part of the lower edge is concave in an upward arc. After completing the specific design, the next step is the production of the actual process template: the finished product is required to meet the design requirements and complete the sewing work accurately. The panel material required to make the template is PVC board, and the auxiliary fixing materials need to prepare sponge strips, sandpaper strips, double-sided tape, and the tape used to connect each layer of the template. The tools needed to make the template are: a knife, a pin, a positioning pin, etc. When making a template, the most important step is to cut the sewing groove. The cutting position is carried out according to the designed slotting position. The cutting template generally uses special cutting equipment, which can be divided into two types: milling cutter cutting and laser cutting. machine. Before cutting the sewing groove, firstly, the design drawing of the template needs to be input into the cutting machine, and the cutting machine will cut according to the design drawing data. After the grooving work of the template body is completed, auxiliary materials need to be manually added to the corresponding parts of the template. When installing, you need to pay attention to the position. The accuracy of the parts where the auxiliary materials are installed will affect the effect of using the template to sew.
工艺模板的应用:加工制作好的工艺模板的应用过程是在工业平缝机上使用模板进行缝制时,需要先将平缝机的压脚、送布牙、针板更换成工艺模板专用的缝纫机配件。(1)首先将裁片摆放在模板中的相应位置,为了能够将领片固定于模板夹层之间,裁剪时四周都需要在净结构的基础上放出1cm的缝份作为模板的固定部分。领片放置于底层板的上方,中间板与底层板之间,领片的毛边需抵住海绵条(阻挡作用)的下边缘,将中间夹层板放下后,中间夹层板背面的砂纸条(防滑)将领片夹牢。(2)在中间夹层板的上方摆放熨烫好的水路条,水路条的折边需抵住中间夹层板开槽位上方的海绵条,并用海绵条下方加装的双面胶(固定、防滑作用)将其粘牢,水路条摆放的弧度需要精确符合模板上设置好的海绵条的弧度。模板缝制时使用的水路条的宽度不采用传统工艺制作时所设定的2cm,而采用5cm宽度的条子进行缝制,多出的宽度作为工艺模板缝制时裁片摆放所需的固定部分,使用模板缝制完毕后再将其毛边部分修剪为0.3cm左右。(3)水路条摆放好后,将表层板放下,缝制前的准备工作完毕。(4)将放置好裁片的模板,表层板朝上,下层板的槽位对准针板上的上线口,开始缝制。(5)缝制时用手向前推模板,缝制到有曲度的部位时需要用手将模板转变角度。Application of process template: The application process of the processed template is that when using the template to sew on an industrial lockstitch machine, it is necessary to replace the presser foot, feed dog and needle plate of the lockstitch machine with a sewing machine dedicated to the process template. Accessories. (1) First, place the cut pieces in the corresponding position in the template. In order to fix the collar piece between the template interlayers, it is necessary to release a 1cm seam allowance on the basis of the net structure as the fixed part of the template when cutting. The collar piece is placed above the bottom board, between the middle board and the bottom board, and the burrs of the collar piece should be against the lower edge of the sponge strip (blocking effect). non-slip) clip the collar piece firmly. (2) Place the ironed waterway strip on the top of the middle sandwich board. The folded edge of the waterway strip should be against the sponge strip above the slot of the middle sandwich board, and use the double-sided tape (fixed, fixed, Anti-slip effect) stick it firmly, and the arc of the waterway strip needs to exactly match the arc of the sponge strip set on the template. The width of the waterway strips used in the template sewing is not 2cm, which is set in the traditional process, but 5cm wide strips are used for sewing. Part, use the template to sew and then trim the raw edge to about 0.3cm. (3) After the waterway strips are placed, put down the surface board, and the preparations before sewing are completed. (4) Place the template on which the cut pieces are placed, with the surface board facing up, and the slot on the lower board aligning with the thread opening on the needle board, and start sewing. (5) Push the template forward by hand when sewing, and change the angle of the template by hand when sewing to the curved part.
使用模板缝制的水路线条圆顺流畅,各部位距离宽窄一致,略有不足的地方为缝制出的水路宽度相较于传统工艺缝制出来的水路宽度较宽,但是形成的风格较为活泼大方,传统工艺制作的水路,风格较为优雅。使用模板缝制时操作便捷、迅速,无障碍;与传统的缝制工艺技法相比,较为省时省力,因为模板已经将水路条的位置定好,因此缝制前在领片上绘制缝迹线的这一准备工作即可省略,能够压缩制作时间;且对于操作人员的缝制工艺水平要求不高,但因为领片存在一定的曲线,缝制时对熟练程度也有一定的要求,因此如果使用模板制作,前期也需要对工人进行一定的培训,这样才能保证实际生产时的效率和质量。The water lines sewn by the template are round and smooth, and the distance between each part is the same. The slight deficiency is that the width of the sewn waterway is wider than that of the traditional process, but the style formed is more lively and generous. , The waterway made by traditional craftsmanship is more elegant in style. When using the template to sew, the operation is convenient, fast and barrier-free; compared with the traditional sewing technique, it is more time-saving and labor-saving, because the template has already set the position of the waterway strip, so the sewing line is drawn on the collar piece before sewing. This preparation work can be omitted, which can compress the production time; and the sewing technology level of the operator is not high, but because the collar has a certain curve, there are also certain requirements for proficiency in sewing, so if a template is used In the early stage of production, workers also need to be trained to a certain extent, so as to ensure the efficiency and quality of the actual production.
采用上述技术方案后,本实用新型蒙古袍领子水路工艺模板具有能够显示提高蒙古袍领子水路制作效率和质量的优点。After adopting the above technical scheme, the Mongolian gown collar waterway process template of the present utility model has the advantage of being able to improve the efficiency and quality of the Mongolian gown collar waterway production.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1-3分别是本实用新型蒙古袍领子水路工艺模板底层板、中间夹层板和表层板的结构示意图。Figures 1-3 are respectively the structural schematic diagrams of the bottom plate, the middle sandwich plate and the surface plate of the Mongolian gown collar waterway process template of the present invention.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
如图所示,本实用新型蒙古袍领子水路工艺模板由领子水路工艺模板底层板和中间夹层板及表层板组成;底层板和中间夹层板及表层板的基板都是大于领子的,大小相同的,上边为直角下边为圆角的横长型PVC板;在底层板基板1正面画出中部含有用于领子裁片放置的定位净结构部分11,且使领子裁片上边朝下的毛样板区10,在毛样板区10开制与领子的上边沿曲度一致,并且保证顺滑、宽度一致的横长U型缝纫槽12,在横长U型缝纫槽12外侧的毛样板区10设置用于固定领子裁片的砂纸条线13和在砂纸条线13外侧设置用于阻拦领子裁片的海绵条线14;中间夹层板基板2及表层板基板3也在其同样位置开制同样的横长U型缝纫槽12;中间夹层板基板2正面设置水路条固定用双面胶条线15及水路条阻挡用海绵条线14,背面设置领子裁片固定用的砂纸条线13;表层板基板3正面设置水路条稳固用砂纸条线13。横长U型缝纫槽宽度为0.3cm。As shown in the figure, the Mongolian gown collar waterway process template of the present utility model is composed of a collar waterway process template bottom plate, an intermediate sandwich plate and a surface plate; , the upper side is a right angle and the lower side is a horizontally long PVC board; on the front side of the bottom board substrate 1, draw a middle part containing a positioning net structure part 11 for the placement of the collar pieces, and make the collar pieces face down. 10. In the
底层板基板1和表层板基板3的厚度大于中间夹层板基板2厚度。底层板基板1和表层板基板3的厚度为中间夹层板基板2厚度的两倍左右。底层板基板1和表层板基板3的厚度为0.3cm,中间夹层板基板3厚度为0.15mm。所述定位净结构是以净结构线作为领子裁片放置的定位净结构部分11的标示。图1中净结构线为阴影线。The thickness of the bottom layer substrate 1 and the surface layer substrate 3 is greater than the thickness of the intermediate
横长U型缝纫槽宽度为0.3cm。考虑到缝制领子部位的水路时,所需的裁片为两片,因此模板总体设计三层:表层板、中间夹层板、底层板,材料为PVC板,表层和底层使用厚度为0.3mm的板,中间夹层板使用材质较薄的板材,厚度为0.15mm。板材的大小根据裁片的大小进行设置,一般在裁片大小的基础上向外加放5cm左右。在底层板的板材上画出领片带有净结构线的毛样板,作为领子裁片放置的定位净结构的部分为图中有阴影的部分;板材的大小为:在领子毛样板的基础上,横向放出5cm、竖向放出3cm。三层板材的大小相同。领子的水路在进行缝制时,缝迹线曲度需要与领子的上边沿曲度一致,并且保证顺滑、宽度一致;同时考虑到领子的结构特点,故而选择领子上边缘的净结构线作为开槽位。底层板上需要放置领子裁片,因此在开槽位的下方、领片毛样板的缝份处加装海绵条与砂纸,对领片的裁片进行固定和阻拦。The width of the horizontal U-shaped sewing groove is 0.3cm. Considering that when sewing the waterway of the collar, two pieces are required, so the template is generally designed with three layers: the surface board, the middle sandwich board, and the bottom board. The material is PVC board, and the surface layer and bottom layer are made of 0.3mm thick Board, the middle sandwich board uses thin material, the thickness is 0.15mm. The size of the plate is set according to the size of the piece, generally about 5cm is placed outward on the basis of the size of the piece. Draw a collar piece with a net structure line on the board of the bottom board, and the part where the collar piece is placed to locate the net structure is the shaded part in the figure; the size of the board is: on the basis of the collar wool pattern , 5cm horizontally and 3cm vertically. The three-layer boards are the same size. When the waterway of the collar is sewn, the curvature of the stitching line needs to be consistent with the curvature of the upper edge of the collar, and ensure smoothness and consistent width; at the same time, considering the structural characteristics of the collar, the net structure line on the upper edge of the collar is selected as the slotted bit. The collar pieces need to be placed on the bottom plate, so add sponge strips and sandpaper at the bottom of the slot and the seam allowance of the collar piece wool pattern to fix and block the collar pieces.
中间夹层板基板2正面在其横长U型缝纫槽12外侧和内侧分别设置顺向分布的水路条固定用双面胶条线15,并在其横长U型缝纫槽12外侧水路条固定用双面胶条线15的外侧设置顺向分布的海绵条线14;中间夹层板基板2背面在对应底层板基板1的毛样板区10上边部设置用于固定领子裁片下边的砂纸条线13。中间夹层板基板2正面在其横长U型缝纫槽12中横段上面和左侧边段内侧设置顺向分布的水路条固定用双面胶条线15,也可以是在其横长U型缝纫槽内侧周设置顺向分布的水路条固定用双面胶条线。用于固定领子裁片下边的砂纸条线13设置在中间夹层板基板2背面对应底层板基板1的定位净结构部分11上方的毛样板区10上边缘部,也可以设置中间夹层板基板背面的横长U型缝纫槽的上口处。The front surface of the
中间夹层的正面需固定住水路条,背面需要对下方的领片也起到一定的固定作用。开槽位与底层板的相同,形状位置一致;中间夹层的正面要对水路条进行固定,因此在开槽位的下方加装一道海绵条、一道双面胶,在开槽位的上方加装一道双面胶起到固定作用,使用双面胶是因为水路条表面积相对来说较小,使用砂纸和海绵条无法固定充分;且在开槽位上下都使用双面胶,使得水路条能够固定的更加牢固。The front side of the middle interlayer needs to fix the waterway strip, and the back side also needs to play a certain role in fixing the collar piece below. The slotted position is the same as that of the bottom board, and the shape and position are the same; the front of the middle interlayer needs to fix the waterway strip, so a sponge strip and a double-sided tape are installed below the slotted position, and installed above the slotted position. A double-sided tape is used for fixing. The double-sided tape is used because the surface area of the waterway strip is relatively small, and the sandpaper and sponge strips cannot be sufficiently fixed; and double-sided tape is used above and below the slotted position, so that the waterway strip can be fixed. more solid.
在表层板基板3正面在对应底层板基板1的毛样板区10上边部设置用于稳固水路条的砂纸条线13。用于稳定水路条的砂纸条线13设置在表层板基板3正面对应底层板基板1的定位净结构部分11上方的毛样板区10上边缘部,也可以设置在表层板基板正面的横长U型缝纫槽的上口处。表层板主要的作用是夹持水路条。开槽位与底层板、中间夹层板的槽位位置相同、形状一致;在槽位的上方加装砂纸条,对固定在中间夹层板的水路条起到稳固的作用,能够更好的保证水路条在缝制时不变形。On the front side of the surface board substrate 3 , a
所述毛样板区10边缘与底层板基板1边缘横向的最小边距为5厘米,竖向最小边距为3厘米。毛样板区10上边中部向上弧形凸出,下边中部向上弧形凹进。设置方式优选粘固。The minimum horizontal distance between the edge of the
工艺模板实物的制作:要求成品能够符合设计要求、精准完成缝制工作。制作模板所需要的面板材料为PVC板,辅助的固定材料需要准备海绵条、砂纸条、双面胶,以及连接每一层模板所使用的胶带。制作模板所需要的工具有:刻刀、大头针、定位针等等。制作模板时,较为重要的步骤是切割缝纫槽,切割位置根据设计好的开槽位进行,切割模板一般使用专门的切割设备,分为两种:铣刀切割和激光切割,根据制作需要选择切割机器。进行缝纫槽切割之前,首先需要将模板的设计图输入到切割机当中,切割机会根据设计图数据进行切割。模板主体的开槽工作完成之后,需要人工将辅助材料加装到模板的相应部位上,加装时需要注意位置,加装辅助材料部位的精确程度会影响使用模板缝制的效果。Production of real craft templates: It is required that the finished product can meet the design requirements and complete the sewing work accurately. The panel material required to make the template is PVC board, and the auxiliary fixing materials need to prepare sponge strips, sandpaper strips, double-sided tape, and the tape used to connect each layer of the template. The tools needed to make the template are: a knife, a pin, a positioning pin, etc. When making a template, the most important step is to cut the sewing groove. The cutting position is carried out according to the designed slotting position. The cutting template generally uses special cutting equipment, which can be divided into two types: milling cutter cutting and laser cutting. machine. Before cutting the sewing groove, firstly, the design drawing of the template needs to be input into the cutting machine, and the cutting machine will cut according to the design drawing data. After the grooving work of the template body is completed, auxiliary materials need to be manually added to the corresponding parts of the template. When installing, you need to pay attention to the position. The accuracy of the parts where the auxiliary materials are installed will affect the effect of using the template to sew.
工艺模板的应用:加工制作好的工艺模板的应用过程是在工业平缝机上使用模板进行缝制时,需要先将平缝机的压脚、送布牙、针板更换成工艺模板专用的缝纫机配件。(1)首先将裁片摆放在模板中的相应位置,为了能够将领片固定于模板夹层之间,裁剪时四周都需要在净结构的基础上放出1cm的缝份作为模板的固定部分。领片放置于底层板的上方,中间板与底层板之间,领片的毛边需抵住海绵条(阻挡作用)的下边缘,将中间夹层板放下后,中间夹层板背面的砂纸条(防滑)将领片夹牢。(2)在中间夹层板的上方摆放熨烫好的水路条,水路条的折边需抵住中间夹层板开槽位上方的海绵条,并用海绵条下方加装的双面胶(固定、防滑作用)将其粘牢,水路条摆放的弧度需要精确符合模板上设置好的海绵条的弧度。模板缝制时使用的水路条的宽度不采用传统工艺制作时所设定的2cm,而采用5cm宽度的条子进行缝制,多出的宽度作为工艺模板缝制时裁片摆放所需的固定部分,使用模板缝制完毕后再将其毛边部分修剪为0.3cm左右。(3)水路条摆放好后,将表层板放下,缝制前的准备工作完毕。(4)将放置好裁片的模板,表层板朝上,下层板的槽位对准针板上的上线口,开始缝制。(5)缝制时用手向前推模板,缝制到有曲度的部位时需要用手将模板转变角度。Application of process template: The application process of the processed template is that when using the template to sew on an industrial lockstitch machine, it is necessary to replace the presser foot, feed dog and needle plate of the lockstitch machine with a sewing machine dedicated to the process template. Accessories. (1) First, place the cut pieces in the corresponding position in the template. In order to fix the collar piece between the template interlayers, it is necessary to release a 1cm seam allowance on the basis of the net structure as the fixed part of the template when cutting. The collar piece is placed above the bottom board, between the middle board and the bottom board, and the burrs of the collar piece should be against the lower edge of the sponge strip (blocking effect). non-slip) clip the collar piece firmly. (2) Place the ironed waterway strip on the top of the middle sandwich board. The folded edge of the waterway strip should be against the sponge strip above the slot of the middle sandwich board, and use the double-sided tape (fixed, fixed, Anti-slip effect) stick it firmly, and the arc of the waterway strip needs to exactly match the arc of the sponge strip set on the template. The width of the waterway strips used in the template sewing is not 2cm, which is set in the traditional process, but 5cm wide strips are used for sewing. Part, use the template to sew and then trim the raw edge to about 0.3cm. (3) After the waterway strips are placed, put down the surface board, and the preparations before sewing are completed. (4) Place the template on which the cut pieces are placed, with the surface board facing up, and the slot on the lower board aligning with the thread opening on the needle board, and start sewing. (5) Push the template forward by hand when sewing, and change the angle of the template by hand when sewing to the curved part.
使用模板缝制的水路线条圆顺流畅,各部位距离宽窄一致,略有不足的地方为缝制出的水路宽度相较于传统工艺缝制出来的水路宽度较宽,但是形成的风格较为活泼大方,传统工艺制作的水路,风格较为优雅。使用模板缝制时操作便捷、迅速,无障碍;与传统的缝制工艺技法相比,较为省时省力,因为模板已经将水路条的位置定好,因此缝制前在领片上绘制缝迹线的这一准备工作即可省略,能够压缩制作时间;且对于操作人员的缝制工艺水平要求不高,但因为领片存在一定的曲线,缝制时对熟练程度也有一定的要求,因此如果使用模板制作,前期也需要对工人进行一定的培训,这样才能保证实际生产时的效率和质量。The water lines sewn by the template are round and smooth, and the distance between each part is the same. The slight deficiency is that the width of the sewn waterway is wider than that of the traditional process, but the style formed is more lively and generous. , The waterway made by traditional craftsmanship is more elegant in style. When using the template to sew, the operation is convenient, fast and barrier-free; compared with the traditional sewing technique, it is more time-saving and labor-saving, because the template has already set the position of the waterway strip, so the sewing line is drawn on the collar piece before sewing. This preparation work can be omitted, which can compress the production time; and the sewing technology level of the operator is not high, but because the collar has a certain curve, there are also certain requirements for proficiency in sewing, so if a template is used In the early stage of production, workers also need to be trained to a certain extent, so as to ensure the efficiency and quality of the actual production.
总之,本实用新型蒙古袍领子水路工艺模板具有能够显示提高蒙古袍领子水路制作效率和质量的优点。In a word, the Mongolian gown collar waterway craft template of the present invention has the advantage of improving the efficiency and quality of Mongolian gown collar waterway production.
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