CN1679476A - 毛发化妆品 - Google Patents
毛发化妆品 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN1679476A CN1679476A CNA2005100529228A CN200510052922A CN1679476A CN 1679476 A CN1679476 A CN 1679476A CN A2005100529228 A CNA2005100529228 A CN A2005100529228A CN 200510052922 A CN200510052922 A CN 200510052922A CN 1679476 A CN1679476 A CN 1679476A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- acid
- cosmetic composition
- hair cosmetic
- composition
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 97
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 68
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 41
- -1 aromatic alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 42
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 229920001451 polypropylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 150000002596 lactones Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 150000003997 cyclic ketones Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 24
- 239000000872 buffer Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 13
- WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzyl alcohol Chemical group OCC1=CC=CC=C1 WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000000474 nursing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000003139 buffering effect Effects 0.000 abstract 1
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- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 27
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 25
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 21
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- 241001080929 Zeugopterus punctatus Species 0.000 description 18
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 15
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 14
- 150000002500 ions Chemical class 0.000 description 12
- BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-REOHCLBHSA-N (S)-malic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](O)CC(O)=O BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 206010009866 Cold sweat Diseases 0.000 description 10
- BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N alpha-hydroxysuccinic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(O)CC(O)=O BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 10
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- 235000011090 malic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 10
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 10
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- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
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- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 8
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 7
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 7
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- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 5
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- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 description 4
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- 238000001764 infiltration Methods 0.000 description 4
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- 239000006174 pH buffer Substances 0.000 description 4
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- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 description 4
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- MPNXSZJPSVBLHP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-chloro-n-phenylpyridine-3-carboxamide Chemical compound ClC1=NC=CC=C1C(=O)NC1=CC=CC=C1 MPNXSZJPSVBLHP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- WRMNZCZEMHIOCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenylethanol Chemical compound OCCC1=CC=CC=C1 WRMNZCZEMHIOCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- YEJRWHAVMIAJKC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-Butyrolactone Chemical compound O=C1CCCO1 YEJRWHAVMIAJKC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 229920001661 Chitosan Polymers 0.000 description 3
- ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chlorine atom Chemical compound [Cl] ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 3
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N Dextrotartaric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(O)=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000004593 Epoxy Substances 0.000 description 3
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- MUBZPKHOEPUJKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oxalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(O)=O MUBZPKHOEPUJKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tartaric acid Natural products [H+].[H+].[O-]C(=O)C(O)C(O)C([O-])=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Vinyl acetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OC=C XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000000460 chlorine Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910052801 chlorine Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 230000001804 emulsifying effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000003699 hair surface Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229910052736 halogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 150000002367 halogens Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 238000007602 hot air drying Methods 0.000 description 3
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- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 3
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- YYGNTYWPHWGJRM-UHFFFAOYSA-N (6E,10E,14E,18E)-2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosa-2,6,10,14,18,22-hexaene Chemical compound CC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)C YYGNTYWPHWGJRM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OOCCDEMITAIZTP-QPJJXVBHSA-N (E)-cinnamyl alcohol Chemical compound OC\C=C\C1=CC=CC=C1 OOCCDEMITAIZTP-QPJJXVBHSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Propenoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 2
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Classifications
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- F—MECHANICAL ENGINEERING; LIGHTING; HEATING; WEAPONS; BLASTING
- F24—HEATING; RANGES; VENTILATING
- F24F—AIR-CONDITIONING; AIR-HUMIDIFICATION; VENTILATION; USE OF AIR CURRENTS FOR SCREENING
- F24F13/00—Details common to, or for air-conditioning, air-humidification, ventilation or use of air currents for screening
- F24F13/02—Ducting arrangements
- F24F13/0209—Ducting arrangements characterised by their connecting means, e.g. flanges
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- F—MECHANICAL ENGINEERING; LIGHTING; HEATING; WEAPONS; BLASTING
- F24—HEATING; RANGES; VENTILATING
- F24F—AIR-CONDITIONING; AIR-HUMIDIFICATION; VENTILATION; USE OF AIR CURRENTS FOR SCREENING
- F24F13/00—Details common to, or for air-conditioning, air-humidification, ventilation or use of air currents for screening
- F24F13/02—Ducting arrangements
- F24F13/0245—Manufacturing or assembly of air ducts; Methods therefor
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- General Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Combustion & Propulsion (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
本发明涉及含下述成分(A)和(B)的抗冲洗型毛发化妆品,以及使用该毛发化妆品处理毛发的毛发改性方法,其中,(A)为碳原子数2~8的有机二羧酸或其盐,(B)为选自芳香醇、N-烷基吡咯烷酮、碳酸亚烃酯、聚丙二醇、内酯或环酮的Clog P为-2~3的有机溶剂,该毛发化妆品以水稀释成20重量倍时,25℃的pH是2~5,缓冲容量大于等于0.001克当量/L、小于0.2克当量/L。本发明的毛发化妆品可赋予因染发、电烫、反复过度吹风干燥而受损、干松蓬乱的干燥头发以光泽、整齐、柔顺和弹性。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及含有机二羧酸或其盐的、抗冲洗型毛发化妆品。
背景技术
近年,因染发剂等化学处理以及吹风等物理处理的影响,因毛发表面的角层剥离、毛发内部脂质的流出引起毛发内部的空洞化等现象,结果导致毛发干松蓬乱、梳理性差、毛发不整齐、失去光泽。
为赋予毛发整齐性、防止干松蓬乱,现在主流的抗冲洗型毛发化妆品有含蜡、高级醇、表面活性剂等的发乳型等乳化类商品,或含成膜聚合物(定型聚合物)的凝胶状商品等。这类毛发化妆品使毛发表面附着油脂或聚合物,形成薄膜状结构,可暂时解决整齐性差、干松蓬乱的问题,但不能从本质上改善毛发的光泽和整齐性。
另外,已知有几种目的是对毛发进行改性的毛发化妆品,其中的作用于毛发内部而尝试改性的技术已知有使用特定有机酸与有机溶剂(例如,参阅日本特开平7-112921号公报、特开平6-172131号公报、特开平9-301831号公报、特开平6-298625号公报)的技术。它们是将硬而难处理的毛发柔软化,促使毛发整齐。
发明内容
本发明涉及含下述成份(A)和(B)的抗冲洗型毛发化妆品,其中,(A)为碳原子数2~8的有机二羧酸或其盐,(B)为选自芳香醇、N-烷基吡咯烷酮、碳酸亚烃酯、聚丙二醇、内酯或环酮的Clog P为-2~3的有机溶剂,该毛发化妆品以水稀释成20重量倍时,25℃的pH是2~5,缓冲容量大于等于0.001克当量/L、小于0.2克当量/L。
本发明还涉及使用上述毛发化妆品处理毛发的毛发改性方法。另外,本发明中的毛发改性是指提高毛发的梳通性、整齐性和触感。
本发明涉及可从根本上改善毛发,提高毛发的光泽度和整齐性,且触感好的抗冲洗型毛发化妆品。
本发明人等发现,通过赋予含有机二羧酸与促进渗透的有机溶剂的毛发化妆品一定的缓冲容量,不仅能保持使用时(涂在湿润毛发上等时)环境变化下的强稳定性,还能促进上述有机二羧酸与有机溶剂向毛发的渗透,进一步提高毛发的梳通性、整齐性和触感,从而完成本发明。
本发明的成份(A)有机二羧酸的碳原子数是2~8,可举出丙二酸、琥珀酸、戊二酸、己二酸、马来酸、富马酸、邻苯二甲酸、草酸、苹果酸、酒石酸等。其中,除碳原子数3以上的、特别是羟基二羧酸中的苹果酸、酒石酸之外,优选例还有丙二酸、琥珀酸,特别优选为苹果酸。它们的二羧酸盐,可举出与碱金属、碱土金属、铵、有机胺形成的盐。
这些成份(A)可同时使用两种或两种以上,考虑到毛发的内部改性(修补空洞等)效果、提高定型性的效果、改善整齐性的效果等,其含量优选为本发明毛发化妆品的0.01~30重量%、更优选为0.1~20重量%、特别优选为0.5~10重量%。
本发明的成份(B)有机溶剂为选自芳香醇、N-烷基吡咯烷酮、碳酸亚烃酯、聚丙二醇、内酯或环酮的有机溶剂,具体可举出选自下述(b1)~(b5)的溶剂。
(b1)是通式(1)所示的芳香醇
式中,R1表示R2-Ph-R3-基,其中,R2为氢原子、甲基或甲氧基,R3为成键端或碳原子数1~3的饱和或不饱和的二价烃基,Ph为对亚苯基,Y与Z表示氢原子或羟基,p、q、r表示0~5的整数,且当p=q=0时,Z不是氢原子,或R1不是R2-Ph-;
(b2)在氮原子上结合有碳原子数1~18烷基的N-烷基吡咯烷酮;
(b3)碳原子数2~4的碳酸亚烃酯;
(b4)数均分子量100~1000的聚丙二醇;
(b5)通式(2)、(3)或(4)所示的内酯或环酮
式中,X表示亚甲基或氧原子,R4与R5表示不同的取代基,a、b表示0或1。
在成份(B)的有机溶剂中,(b1)可举出苯甲醇、肉桂醇、苯乙醇、对茴香醇、对甲基苯甲醇、苯氧基乙醇、2-苄氧基乙醇等。(b2)可举出N-甲基吡咯烷酮、N-辛基吡咯烷酮、N-月桂基吡咯烷酮。(b3)可举出碳酸亚乙酯(ethylene carbonate)、碳酸亚丙酯(propylenecarbonate)。(b4)的数均分子量100~1000的聚丙二醇优选为数均分子量100~500,特别优选为聚合度2~5的聚丙二醇。(b5)中,通式(2)~(4)的R4与R5优选为直链、支链或环状的烷基、羟基、磺酸基、磷酸基、羧基、苯基、硫代烷基、磷酸烷基、羧基烷基等,其中,优选为γ-内酯时在γ位、δ-内酯时在δ位(即杂氧原子的邻接甲氧基)取代的碳原子数1~6的直链或支链烷基,如甲基、乙基、丙基、异丙基、丁基等。而为增大化合物(2)~(4)的水溶性时,R4或R5优选为具有磺酸基、磷酸基、羧基等酸性基或有这些取代基的烷基。(b5)中的内酯,可举出γ-丁内酯、γ-己内酯、γ-戊内酯、δ-戊内酯、δ-己内酯、δ-庚内酯等,考虑到内酯稳定性,优选为γ-内酯,特别优选为γ-丁内酯、γ-己内酯。(b5)中的环酮,可举出环戊酮、环己酮、环庚酮、4-甲基环庚酮等。
特别优选的成份(B)可举出苯甲醇、苄氧基乙醇、碳酸亚丙酯及丙二醇(数均分子量300~500,特别优选为400)。
另外,本发明所用的成份(B)优选为25℃时是液体的物质,且ClogP需要为-2~3,尤其是为促进渗透,优选为-1~2。本发明中的ClogP表示辛醇相与水相之间的物质分配尺度,指以下式定义的辛醇-水分配系数(logP)的计算值,在Chemical Views,71卷,6号(1971)中载有其例。
logP=log([物质]辛醇/[物质]水)式中,[物质]辛醇表示辛醇相中的物质摩尔浓度、[物质]水表示水相中的物质摩尔浓度。
成份(B)的ClogP的主要具体例有,苯甲醇(1.1)、2-苄氧基乙醇(1.2)、2-苯基乙醇(1.2)、1-苯氧基-2-丙醇(1.1)、聚丙二醇400(0.9)、碳酸亚丙酯(-0.41)、γ-丁内酯(-0.64)。
成份(B)可同时使用两种或两种以上,而考虑到使用感、毛发光泽与改性促进效果(提高弹性、耐湿性等),其含量优选为本发明的毛发化妆品的0.1~40重量%、更优选为0.5~10重量%、特别优选为1~5重量%。
为表现出有效的毛发内部改性(修补空洞等)、提高定型、改善整齐性等效果,成份(A)的有机二羧酸或其盐与成份(B)的有机溶剂的重量比范围(A)∶(B)优选为10∶1~1∶7,特别优选为4∶1~1∶3。
本发明的毛发化妆品,还可含有乙醇。乙醇用于使成份(B)可溶或使其稳定分散。乙醇含量优选为本发明毛发化妆品的0.01~50重量%、特别优选为1~20重量%。且为促进成份(A)、(B)向毛发的渗透,乙醇与成份(B)的重量比范围为乙醇∶成份(B)=40∶1~2∶1,特别优选为20∶1~3∶1。
为提高整发性、调整粘度、稳定性、涂在毛发上时的附着性,改善触感以及尽早表现出毛发改性效果,本发明的毛发化妆品中还可含有定型聚合物。这类聚合物可举出聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮、乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯共聚物、乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯/丙酸乙烯酯三元共聚物、乙烯基吡咯烷酮/烷基氨基丙烯酸酯(季盐化)共聚物、乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酸酯/(甲基)丙烯酸共聚物、乙烯基吡咯烷酮/烷基氨基丙烯酸酯/乙烯基己内酯共聚物等聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮类高分子化合物;甲基乙烯基醚/马来酸酐烷基半酯共聚物等酸性乙烯基醚类高分子化合物;醋酸乙烯/丁烯酸共聚物、醋酸乙烯/丁烯酸/新癸酸乙烯酯共聚物、醋酸乙烯/丁烯酸/丙酸乙烯酯共聚物等酸性聚醋酸乙烯类高分子化合物;(甲基)丙烯酸/(甲基)丙烯酸酯共聚物、丙烯酸/丙烯酸烷基酯/烷基丙烯酰胺共聚物等酸性丙烯酸类高分子化合物;N-甲基丙烯酰乙基-N,N-二甲铵-α-N-甲基羧基甜菜碱/甲基丙烯酸丁酯共聚物、丙烯酸羟丙酯/甲基丙烯酸丁基氨基乙酯/丙烯酸辛酰胺共聚物等两性丙烯酸类高分子化合物;丙烯酰胺丙烯酸酯类四元共聚物等碱性丙烯酸类高分子化合物;阳离子纤维素衍生物等纤维素衍生物;羟丙基壳聚糖、羧甲基壳多糖、羧甲基壳聚糖等壳多糖-壳聚糖衍生物等。
可单独或一种以上组合使用这些定型聚合物,其含量在本发明的毛发化妆品中为0.1~10重量%,特别优选为0.5~5重量%。
为进一步提高护理效果,本发明的毛发化妆品中可含有选自硅酮类和油剂的护理成份。硅酮类可举出二甲基聚硅氧烷、聚醚改性硅酮、氨基改性硅酮、羧基改性硅酮、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、脂肪酸改性硅酮、醇改性硅酮、脂肪醇改性硅酮、环氧改性硅酮、氟改性硅酮、环硅酮、烷基改性硅酮等。其中,优选为二甲基聚硅氧烷、聚醚改性硅酮、氨基改性硅酮。二甲基聚硅氧烷可赋予毛发良好的润滑性,聚醚改性硅酮可赋予毛发顺滑性,氨基改性硅酮可赋予毛发湿润感。根据所要求的性能,在本发明中,可单独或一种以上组合使用各种硅酮。根据所要求的触感,二甲基聚硅氧烷可使用粘度从5mm2/s左右~以乳液状使用时多采用的1000万mm2/s左右的物质,优选为5000~1000万mm2/s、特别优选为5万~1000万mm2/s。
聚醚改性硅酮是聚环氧乙烷和甲基聚硅氧烷的共聚物、聚(环氧乙烷环氧丙烷)甲基聚硅氧烷共聚物的总称,已知具有各种HLB的硅酮,市售商品可举出信越化学工业社的Silicon KF 351A、KF353A、KF6008、KF6016、KF6011、KF6012等,Toray Dow Corning Silicon的SH3771C、SH3773C、SH3775C等。氨基改性硅酮可举出Toray Dow Corning Silicon的Amodimethicon SM8704C乳液和东芝Silicon的KT-1989、XF42-B1989等。
考虑到梳理性和避免发粘感,硅酮类含量优选为本发明毛发化妆品的0.05~20重量%、更优选为0.1~10重量%、特别优选为0.5~5重量%。
为提高干燥后的毛发整齐感而使用油剂。油剂可举出角鲨烯、三十碳烷、流动异链烷烃、轻质流动异链烷烃、重质流动异链烷烃、α-烯烃低聚物、液体石蜡、环烷烃等烃类;蓖麻油、可可油、水貂油、鳄梨油、橄榄油等甘油酯类;蜜蜡、鲸蜡、含水羊毛脂、微晶蜡、白地蜡、巴西棕榈蜡等蜡类;鲸蜡醇、油醇、硬脂醇、异硬脂醇、2-辛基十二烷醇等高级醇类;肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、月桂酸己酯、乳化鲸蜡剂、单硬脂酸丙二醇酯、油酸油酯、2-乙基己酸鲸蜡基酯、异壬酸异壬酯、异壬酸十三烷基酯等酯类;癸酸、月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、山嵛酸、油酸、椰油脂肪酸、异硬脂酸、异棕榈酸等高级脂肪酸类;其它还有异硬脂酰甘油醚、聚氧丙烯丁基醚等。其中,特别优选为角鲨烯、三十碳烷、流动异链烷烃、轻质流动异链烷烃、重质流动异链烷烃、α-烯烃低聚物等支链烃类。
考虑到整齐性和避免发粘感,油剂含量优选为本发明毛发化妆品的0.05~20重量%、更优选为0.1~10重量%、特别优选为0.5~5重量%。
考虑到包括溶剂可溶性、分散性等的体系稳定性和触感的提高,本发明的毛发化妆品中可含有表面活性剂。表面活性剂使用阳离子表面活性剂、非离子表面活性剂、两性表面活性剂、阴离子表面活性剂均可。
阳离子表面活性剂,可举出下述通式(6)所示的季铵盐。
式中,R6与R7分别独立表示氢原子、碳原子数1~28的烷基或苄基,不包括同时为氢原子或苄基和碳原子数1~3的低级烷基的情况。Z-表示阴离子。
其中,R6与R7其中的一个优选为碳原子数16~24、更优选为22的烷基,特别优选为直链烷基,另外一个优选为碳原子数1~3的低级烷基、特别优选为甲基。阴离子Z可举出氯系离子、溴系离子等卤系离子;硫酸乙酯离子、碳酸甲酯离子等有机阴离子,优选为卤系离子、特别优选氯系离子。
阳离子表面活性剂优选为单长链烷基季铵盐,具体可举出鲸蜡基三甲基氯化铵、硬脂基三甲基氯化铵、花生基三甲基氯化铵、山嵛基三甲基氯化铵等,特别优选为硬脂基三甲基氯化铵、山嵛基三甲基氯化铵。
非离子表面活性剂可举出聚环氧亚烷基烷基醚、聚环氧亚烷基烯基醚、高级脂肪酸蔗糖酯、聚甘油脂肪酸酯、高级脂肪酸单或二乙酰胺、聚氧乙烯固化蓖麻油、聚氧乙烯山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯、烷基糖类表面活性剂、烷基氧化胺、烷基酰胺氧化胺等。其中,优选为聚环氧亚烷基烷基醚、聚氧乙烯固化蓖麻油,特别优选为聚氧乙烯烷基醚。
两性表面活性剂可举出咪唑啉类、羰基甜菜碱类、酰胺甜菜碱类、硫代甜菜碱类、羟基硫代甜菜碱类、酰胺硫代甜菜碱类等。
阴离子表面活性剂可举出烷基苯磺酸盐、烷基或烯基醚硫酸盐、烷基或烯基硫酸盐、烯烃磺酸盐、烷烃磺酸盐、饱和或不饱和脂肪酸盐、烷基或烯基醚羧酸盐、α-磺基脂肪酸盐、N-酰基氨基酸型表面活性剂、磷酸单或二酯型表面活性剂、磺基琥珀酸酯等。上述表面活性剂的阴性残基的平衡离子,可举出钠离子、钾离子等碱金属离子;钙离子、镁离子等碱土金属离子;铵离子;具有1~3个碳原子数2或3的烷醇基的烷醇胺(例如一乙醇胺、二乙醇胺、三乙醇胺、三异丙醇胺等)。而阳离子性残基的平衡离子,可举出氯系离子、溴系离子、碘系离子等卤系离子、硫酸甲氧酯离子、蔗糖酯离子。
其中,考虑到触感,优选为阳离子表面活性剂。表面活性剂可单独使用,也可一种以上组合使用,考虑到包括溶剂的可溶、油剂的乳化等体系稳定性,其含量在本发明的毛发化妆品中为0.01~10重量%、特别优选为0.05~3重量%。
在本发明的毛发化妆品中,还可含有多元醇。多元醇使成份(B)可溶,能稳定分散,且与成份(B)有叠加效果,促进提高光泽度与毛发改性效果。多元醇可举出乙二醇、甘油、山梨糖醇、丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、二丙二醇等,特别优选为甘油。多元醇可单独使用,也可一种以上组合使用,且其含量优选为本发明毛发化妆品的0.1~10重量%、特别优选为0.5~5重量%。
本发明的毛发化妆品除上述成份之外,还可根据使用目的适当配合毛发化妆品常用的成份。这类成份可举出例如去头屑剂;维生素剂;杀菌剂;抗炎症剂;防腐剂;螯合剂;山梨糖醇、泛酰醇等保湿剂;染料、颜料等着色剂;羟乙基纤维素、甲基纤维素、聚乙二醇、粘土矿物等粘度调节剂;氢氧化钠、氢氧化钾等pH调节剂;植物提取物类;珠光剂;香料;色素;紫外线吸收剂;抗氧化剂;其它ENCYCLOPEDIA OF SHAMPOO INGREDIENTS(MICELLE PRESS)所述成份。
为表现出毛发的梳通性、提高光泽、柔顺性、整齐度、柔顺而有弹性等性能,本发明的毛发化妆品适用于毛发时的pH(以水稀释成20倍重量时25℃)范围调至2~5,优选为pH2.5~4、特别优选为3~4。为将pH调至上述范围,优选使用氢氧化钠、氢氧化钾等。
为抑制毛发涂布时的pH值变化、促进有机酸与有机溶剂向毛发渗透,尽早展现毛发改性效果、以及进一步提高效果,本发明的毛发化妆品的5重量%水溶液的缓冲容量应大于等于0.001克当量/L、小于0.2克当量/L,优选大于等于0.003克当量/L、小于0.1克当量/L,更优选大于等于0.005克当量/L、小于0.05克当量/L。本发明的缓冲容量是指以25℃时5重量%水溶液的pH从初始值提高1所需的碱浓度为标准,由下式求得的值。
缓冲容量=|dCB/dpH|
式中,CB表示碱的离子浓度(克当量/L)。
该程度下的缓冲容量可通过在毛发化妆品中添加pH缓冲剂等而得到。pH缓冲剂可使用在pH2~5范围内有缓冲作用的有机酸或无机酸及其盐。有机酸除成份(A)外,可举出柠檬酸、乙酰丙酸、丁酸、戊酸、杏仁酸等,无机酸可举出磷酸、硫酸、硝酸等。pH缓冲剂的配合量无特别规定,根据提供缓冲容量的化合物的种类而不同。例如,使用柠檬酸等主要的提供缓冲容量的化合物时,配合浓度大于等于1重量%。
本发明的毛发化妆品形态可适当选择液态、凝胶、糊状、霜状、蜡状等,溶剂优选水或低级醇,特别优选为使用水的液态物。
本发明的毛发化妆品,优选用作毛发定型剂、毛发护理剂等。剂型可采用加压喷射剂、气溶胶喷射剂、加压泡沫剂、气溶胶泡沫、凝胶、洗剂等。
在毛发上涂布本发明的毛发化妆品后,还可通过加热促进成份(A)与(B)向毛发内部渗透。加热时,可使用吹风机、加热器、烫发钳等。温度优选大于等于60℃,特别优选为大于等于70℃。
具体实施方式
下面,根据实施例具体说明本发明,但本发明不受限于实施例。
下述实施例与对照例的pH是用水稀释到20重量倍时25℃的值。
实施例1
配制表2所示毛发化妆品,评价定型性、梳通性提高效果、整齐性、触感与光泽。结果示于表2。
评价方法
定型性评价
1)评价发束
使用未经烫发、染发等化学处理的日本女性毛发,制成长10cm、宽1.5cm、重1g的发束,进行2次脱色处理(使用花王社制Lavenus ColorAppeal Inazuma Bleach),用作评价定型性的发束。
2)发束处理
洗发前的评价(处理7次)
将评价用发束洗净(使用花王社制、Lavenus Designing香波),用毛巾擦干,然后均匀涂布0.1g本发明品或对照品(以下称处理剂),以70℃的热风干燥10分钟。反复进行该处理6次。然后同上所述地进行洗净、用毛巾擦干、涂布处理剂后,将发束卷在直径4cm的圆柱上,用70℃的热风干燥10分钟。
洗发后的评价
评价洗净毛发表面的处理剂后的定型保持性,由此研究毛发内部的改性效果。上述洗发前评价结束后,用洗发剂洗净各发束,用毛巾擦干、不涂处理剂,卷在直径4cm的圆柱上,用70℃热风干燥10分钟。
3)评价程序及标准
从圆柱解下定型发束,用梳子(园梳)梳通20次,将毛发分散。将其吊在恒温恒湿箱(25℃、98%RH)中,判断定型保持力。测定吊着的发束的长度(从束着部位到发尖的距离),刚吊时的发束长度定为定型保持率100%、无卷曲的原发束长度(10cm)定为定型保持率0%,30分钟后的发束长度的相对值(%)、即定型保持率由下式求出。
梳通性提高效果、整齐性、触感(顺滑性、湿润感、柔顺感、发硬感、发粘感)及光泽评价
1)评价发束
使用未经烫发、染发等化学处理的日本女性毛发,制成长25cm、重6g的发束,进行两次脱色处理(花王社制、Lavenus Color AppealInazuma Bleach),用作评价发束。
2)发束的处理
洗发前的评价
将评价用发束用香波洗净(使用花王社制、Lavenus Designing香波),用毛巾擦干,然后均匀涂布0.6g处理剂,以70℃的热风边用环形梳梳理边干燥10分钟。反复进行该处理7次。
洗发后评价
为研究毛发内部的改性效果,将结束了上述洗发前评价的各发束用洗发剂洗净,用毛巾擦干,在70℃下,边用环形梳梳理边干燥10分钟。
3)评价标准
由5名专家根据表1所示标准进行官能评价,表2为评价平均值。
表1
(梳通性提高效果)5:感觉梳通性明显提高4:感觉到梳通性提高3:感觉到梳通性有些提高2:几乎觉不到梳通性提高1:感觉不到梳通性提高 | (整齐性)5:整齐4:还算整齐3:不乱但也不整齐2:不太整齐1:整齐性差 |
(触感:顺滑性)5:顺滑4:还算顺滑3:不好评价2:稍不顺滑1:不顺滑 | (触感:湿润感)5:湿润4:还算湿润3:不好评价2:不太湿润1:不湿润 |
(触感:柔顺性)5:柔顺4:还算柔顺3:不好评价2:不太柔顺1:不柔顺 | (触感:发硬)5:不发硬4:还算不硬3:不好评价2:稍微发硬1:发硬 |
(触感:发粘)5:不发粘4:还算不发粘3:不好评价2:稍微发粘1:发粘 | (光泽)5:光泽显著改善4:光泽改善3:不好评价2:看不出光泽改善1:无光泽 |
表2
本发明品 | 对照品 | ||
1 | 1 | ||
配合组成(重量%) | 苹果酸 | 5.0 | 0.01 |
2-苄氧基乙醇 | 2.5 | 2.5 | |
乙醇 | 10.0 | 10.0 | |
水 | 余量 | 余量 | |
氢氧化钠(pH缓冲剂) | 0.75 | - | |
PH(以水稀释成20重量倍,25℃) | 3.7 | 3.4 | |
缓冲容量 | 0.006g/L | 0.0005g/L | |
洗发前 | 定型性(%) | 84 | 36 |
梳通性提高效果 | 4.4 | 1.8 | |
整齐性 | 4.0 | 2.0 | |
顺滑 | 3.8 | 1.6 | |
湿润 | 3.8 | 2.2 | |
柔顺 | 4.2 | 3.0 | |
发硬 | 4.2 | 4.0 | |
发粘 | 4.0 | 4.2 | |
光泽 | 4.2 | 1.8 | |
洗发后 | 定型性(%) | 72 | 33 |
梳通性提高效果 | 4.0 | 1.8 | |
整齐性 | 3.2 | 2.0 |
根据上述结果可知,本发明无现有技术的发硬、发粘现象,能达到良好的定型性,梳通性提高效果,整齐性、触感提高效果。且在通过洗发除去表面附着成份后,效果也能持续,此外,还确认有能使毛发内部的空洞消失等毛发改性效果。
实施例2(加压喷射剂)
(重量%)
苹果酸 4.0
硬脂基三甲基氯化铵 0.25
甘油 1.0
2-苄氧基乙醇 2.5
乙醇 4.5
香料 0.02
水 余量
柠檬酸 1.1
氢氧化钠(pH调节剂) 调节到pH3.7
〔缓冲容量=0.006克当量/L〕
实施例3(加压雾剂)
(重量%)
苹果酸 3.5
丙二酸 1.0
2-苄氧基乙醇 2.5
聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮 3.0
乙醇 10.0
香料 0.02
水 余量
氢氧化钠(pH调整剂) 调节到pH3.7
〔缓冲容量=0.005克当量/L〕
实施例4(发胶)
(重量%)
苹果酸 2.5
琥珀酸 1.5
甘油 2.0
2-苄氧基乙醇 2.5
羟乙基纤维素 2.0
乙醇 10.0
香料 0.02
水 余量
氢氧化钠(pH调节剂) 调节到pH3.7
〔缓冲容量=0.005克当量/L〕
实施例5(洗发剂)
(重量%)
苹果酸 4.0
乳酸 1.0
甘油 1.0
2-苄氧基乙醇 2.5
乙醇 10.0
香料 0.02
水 余量
氢氧化钠(pH调节剂) 调节到pH3.7
〔缓冲容量=0.006克当量/L〕
实施例6(洗发剂)
(重量%)
苹果酸 2.5
乳酸 1.5
酒石酸 1.0
硬脂基三甲基氯化铵 0.1
苯甲醇 2.0
聚乙二醇400 0.45
乙醇 4.5
水 余量
氢氧化钠(pH调节剂) 调节到pH3.7
〔缓冲容量=0.008克当量/L〕
实施例7(加压泡沫)
(重量%)
苹果酸 2.5
琥珀酸 2.5
聚氧乙烯月桂醚(16E.O.) 1.0
硬脂基三甲基氯化铵 0.1
甘油 1.0
2-苄氧基乙醇 2.0
乙醇 4.0
香料 0.02
水 余量
氢氧化钠(pH调节剂) 调节到pH3.7
〔缓冲容量=0.007克当量/L)
Claims (5)
1.抗冲洗型毛发化妆品,其特征在于,含下述成份(A)和(B)其中,(A)为碳原子数2~8的有机二羧酸或其盐,(B)为选自芳香醇、N-烷基吡咯烷酮、碳酸亚烃酯、聚丙二醇、内酯或环酮的ClogP为-2~3的有机溶剂,所述毛发化妆品以水稀释成20重量倍时,25℃的pH是2~5,缓冲容量大于等于0.001克当量/L、小于0.2克当量/L。
2.如权利要求1所述的毛发化妆品,其特征在于,还含有定型聚合物。
3.如权利要求1或2所述的毛发化妆品,其特征在于,还含有选自硅酮类和油剂的护理成份。
4.如权利要求1~3任一项所述的毛发化妆品,其特征在于,还含有阳离子表面活性剂。
5.使用权利要求1~4任一项所述的毛发化妆品处理毛发的毛发改性方法。
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EP (1) | EP1584325A1 (zh) |
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JP5765537B2 (ja) * | 2012-08-03 | 2015-08-19 | 山栄化学株式会社 | カールヘア用毛髪仕上げ剤 |
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JP6795497B2 (ja) * | 2015-06-22 | 2020-12-02 | 花王株式会社 | 毛髪処理剤 |
CN108495687B (zh) | 2015-11-24 | 2021-11-09 | 欧莱雅 | 用于处理毛发的组合物 |
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JP6758377B2 (ja) | 2015-11-24 | 2020-09-23 | ロレアル | 毛髪を処置するための組成物 |
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-
2004
- 2004-02-27 JP JP2004053708A patent/JP4422508B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2005
- 2005-02-22 US US11/061,506 patent/US8007773B2/en active Active
- 2005-02-24 TW TW094105519A patent/TWI364299B/zh active
- 2005-02-25 KR KR1020050015760A patent/KR20060042220A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2005-02-25 EP EP05004107A patent/EP1584325A1/en not_active Ceased
- 2005-02-28 CN CNA2005100529228A patent/CN1679476A/zh active Pending
Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US8268297B2 (en) | 2007-11-27 | 2012-09-18 | Kao Corporation | Hair cosmetic composition |
CN101878017B (zh) * | 2007-11-27 | 2013-01-02 | 花王株式会社 | 毛发化妆品 |
US8562958B2 (en) | 2007-11-27 | 2013-10-22 | Kao Corporation | Hair cosmetic composition |
CN104807783A (zh) * | 2015-04-16 | 2015-07-29 | 广州天赐高新材料股份有限公司 | 一种测试头发光泽度的方法及应用 |
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KR20060042220A (ko) | 2006-05-12 |
TWI364299B (en) | 2012-05-21 |
US8007773B2 (en) | 2011-08-30 |
EP1584325A1 (en) | 2005-10-12 |
US20050191263A1 (en) | 2005-09-01 |
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JP2005239663A (ja) | 2005-09-08 |
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