CN1640335A - Sleeve hill-line type horizontal determining method for garment sleeve structure - Google Patents
Sleeve hill-line type horizontal determining method for garment sleeve structure Download PDFInfo
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- CN1640335A CN1640335A CN 200410013915 CN200410013915A CN1640335A CN 1640335 A CN1640335 A CN 1640335A CN 200410013915 CN200410013915 CN 200410013915 CN 200410013915 A CN200410013915 A CN 200410013915A CN 1640335 A CN1640335 A CN 1640335A
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- muffs
- mountain
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 238000000465 moulding Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000006978 adaptation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009963 fulling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010422 painting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003643 water by type Substances 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a horizontal definition method of sleeve cap line form of sleeve structure of clothing. It is characterized by that it utilizes the stereo armhole height formed from front and rear armholes of body as longitudinal reference size of sleeve cap, and utilizes the armhole width, sleeve thickness coefficient and armhole and sleeve cap seam portion reverse-increased transverse size as transverse reference size of sleeve cap, then utilizes the stereo angle of sleeve side, thickness of face fabric, reversion of seam portion, recessed form of armhole, presence and absence of shoulder pad, variety of shoulder pad and distance of shoulder pad to shoulder end to define necessary size of every transverse horizontal position at armhole height.
Description
The present invention relates in definite method of a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style, be meant that especially the kind, shoulder pad of being and not being, the shoulder pad of a kind of structure according to clothing body muffs, shoulder pad determine method apart from the variation of the moulding on the top, mountain of swinging to, tuck inside the sleeve of the thickness of the distance of point of shoulder, the edge-on body angle of sleeve, lining, muffs and sleeve mountain seam part, sleeve thickness determine the to tuck inside the sleeve level of mountain line style.
Definite method of the another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style in the prior art, be generally oblique line and determine method (as Fig. 1) and the identical method (as Fig. 2) of muffs line style, be some easy experience techniques of painting, the value cause of sleeve mountain line style every bit size all is not described, be theoretically unsound, the variation of more difficult adaptation style, the bodily form directly has influence on the effect of clothes, so design definite method of a kind of accurate and rational sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style, become garment sector and urgently waited a difficult problem that solves.
The object of the present invention is to provide the level of a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style to determine method, by this method, can accurately find the size at sleeve each position of line style, mountain, the structure, the being and not being of shoulder pad, the kind of shoulder pad, the shoulder pad that adapt to clothing body muffs stitch the moulding on the top, mountain of swinging to, tuck inside the sleeve of part, the variation of sleeve thickness apart from the distance of point of shoulder, thickness, muffs and the sleeve mountain of tuck inside the sleeve edge-on body angle, lining.
The objective of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions:
The level of a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style is determined method, be to be the vertical reference dimension in sleeve mountain according to the three-dimensional muffs hole height that muffs constituted before and after the clothing body, the lateral dimension that muffs hole is wide, sleeve thickness coefficient, muffs and sleeve mountain seam part are swung to increase is sleeve mountain lateral fiducial size, according to the swinging to of the thickness of sleeve edge-on body angle, lining, seam part, the recessed gesture of muffs, the being and not being of shoulder pad, the kind of shoulder pad, shoulder pad decide the necessary size of each transverse horizontal position on the muffs hole height apart from the distance of point of shoulder again.
Compare with the another garment sleeve structure in the prior art, the level of a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve of the present invention mountain line style determines that method has following significant advantage: according to the swinging to of the thickness of the moulding of the solid shape of garment piece muffs hole and sleeve, lining, seam part, the recessed gesture of muffs, the being and not being of shoulder pad, the kind of shoulder pad, shoulder pad are apart from the principle of point of shoulder variable in distance, the level of founding a kind of accurate, reasonably another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style is determined method, make cutting accurate, and provide foundation the correction of special type and the layout of CAD of Garment program.
Following structure embodiment and conjunction with figs. determine that to the level of a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style the design feature of method is described further.
Fig. 3 is the structure chart of muffs before and after the clothing body.
Fig. 4 constitutes the structure chart of three-dimensional muffs hole for preceding back coat.
Fig. 5 is the schematic diagram of the edge-on body angle of sleeve.
Fig. 6 determines the structure chart of method for the horizontal size of sleeve mountain, back line style.
Fig. 7 determines the structure chart of method for the horizontal size of foresleeve mountain line style.
Fig. 8 is complete sleeve mountain linear structure figure.
At first table is consulted the structure chart of Fig. 3 for muffs before and after the clothing body.The crop end points is the preshoot shoulder apart from the lateral separation of chest breadth line.The back porch end points is the backlash shoulder apart from the lateral separation of across back line.Normal forward and backward plane distance between two shoulders is respectively 2.3cm, 2.0cm.Basic sleeve mountain line style be defined as normal distance between two shoulders, after distance between two shoulders changed, sleeve mountain line style should corresponding adjustment.The angular bisector of chest breadth line and muffs bottom line is preceding recessed gesture apart from the air line distance of preceding muffs camber line; The angular bisector of across back line and muffs bottom line is the recurve gesture apart from the air line distance of back sleeve camber line; The difference in size of the recessed gesture of front and back muffs is generally a constant, so the available recurve gesture of relation of front and back sleeve mountain line style and muffs bottom line style is set up mathematic(al) mode.
See also Fig. 4 constitutes three-dimensional muffs hole for preceding back coat structure chart again.Front and back garment piece shoulder seam, latasuture are spliced to form three-dimensional muffs hole, point of shoulder point is summit Q in the position of muffs hole, the wide place of 1/2 muffs hole, muffs hole top is the O point, the size of muffs hole height is wide by muffs hole, the front and back muffs is dark determines, the wide thickness by human body side arm root of muffs hole, underwear thickness, shoulder pad thickness, lining, lining, lining thickness and loose part of certain decision.
Fig. 5 is the schematic diagram of the edge-on body angle of sleeve.α, β are two kinds of edge-on body angles of different sleeves among the figure, and sleeve side angle degree is big more, and required sleeve scenery with hills and waters leveling ruler is very little big more; Otherwise it is then more little.
Fig. 6 determines the structure chart of method for the horizontal size of sleeve mountain, back line style.
Must known dimensions and condition: muffs hole be wide, muffs hole is high, the thickness of the swinging to of sleeve side solid angle degree α, muffs and sleeve mountain seam part, lining, the recessed gesture of back sleeve, the being and not being of shoulder pad, the kind of shoulder pad, shoulder pad are apart from the distance of point of shoulder, the thickness coefficient of sleeve.[muffs hole is wide=☆, and the ☆ size can be measured human body or calculate by the clean chest measurement of normal human, and ☆=chest °/10+2.5+2 underwear is thick+(1～2).Muffs hole height=preceding muffs is dark-(muffs hole is wide/4-1.0).The thickness coefficient of sleeve and moulding to the design of front and back thickness, with having shoulder pad, no shoulder pad, shoulder pad relevant apart from distance, the front and back distance between two shoulders of point of shoulder].
1, draw two right-angle side AB, OB, AB ⊥ OB, the AB=muffs hole is wide+and sleeve thickness coefficient+seam part swings to the horizontal size of increase, and OB=muffs hole height connects OA form right angle triangle OAB, and OA is the mountain oblique line of tucking inside the sleeve.
2,, cross the O point and make ∠ BOR=α according to the edge-on body angle [alpha] of known sleeve.Cross the A point and make the vertical line friendship OR of OR in C point, AC=BICEP.
3, on OB, draw five lines that are parallel to AB, be referred to as horizontal line apart from a determining deviation,
Water Horizontal line 1Apart from O point 1.2,
Horizontal line 2Apart from O point 1.2+2.2,
Horizontal line 3At the mid point of OB,
Water Horizontal line 4Apart from AB line 2.2+2.2,
Horizontal line 5Apart from AB line 2.2.
4, the high OB straight line of OC straight line and muffs hole is handed over
Horizontal line 1Distance between two points is
1Hand over
Level Line 2Distance between two points is
2
5,
Horizontal line 3Mountain oblique line OA meets at the D point with sleeve, crosses the parallel lines friendship that the D point is made OB
Horizontal line 1In the E point; Hand over
Horizontal line 2In the F point.Cross the D point and do the parallel lines friendship of OR
Horizontal line 4In the M point; Hand over
Horizontal line 5In the N point, hand over AB in the G point.
6, cross C and make horizontal line CJ friendship OB in the P point, JP=recurve gesture+◎ (◎=0.5 is that no shoulder pad, ◎=1.0 are for there being shoulder pad) crosses the J point and makes the vertical line friendship AC of JC in the K point.
7, exist
Horizontal line 1On get EL
1=☆/4+1+0.8
1,
Horizontal line 2On get FL
2=☆/4-1+0.8
2,
Horizontal line 4On get ML
4=KC/2,
Horizontal line 5On get NL
5=JC-0.8.
O ' on the extended line of OC, the size of OO ' with have, no shoulder pad, shoulder pad have or not cut-off rule relevant apart from the swinging to of the moulding of the distance of point of shoulder, shoulder pad, seam part, the thickness of lining, muffs top.
8, fairing connects O ', L
1, L
2, D, L
4, L
5, the A point is back sleeve mountain line style.
Fig. 7 determines the structure chart of method for the horizontal size of foresleeve mountain line style.Foresleeve mountain line style is adjusted on the line style of the back sleeve mountain of Fig. 6.L
1Outside 0.5, the L of point
2Point is outside 0.4, and the D point is inside 0.2, L
4Point is inside 1.5, L
5Point is inside 1.3, and O ', A point is constant, and the fairing connection is foresleeve mountain line style then, represents with thick dashed line among the figure.
Fig. 8 is complete sleeve mountain linear structure schematic diagram.According to Fig. 7, be symmetry axis with O ' C, find the line of symmetry of foresleeve mountain line style, constitute complete sleeve mountain, front and back line style.Q ' is the corresponding points of coincideing with point of shoulder point, O ' Q '=OQ.
Claims (7)
1, the level of a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style is determined method, be to be the vertical reference dimension in sleeve mountain according to the three-dimensional muffs hole height that muffs constituted before and after the clothing body, the lateral dimension that muffs hole is wide, sleeve thickness coefficient, muffs and sleeve mountain seam part are swung to increase is sleeve mountain lateral fiducial size, according to the swinging to of the thickness of sleeve edge-on body angle, lining, seam part, the recessed gesture of muffs, the being and not being of shoulder pad, the kind of shoulder pad, shoulder pad decide the necessary size of each transverse horizontal position on the muffs hole height apart from the distance of point of shoulder again.
2, determine method according to the level of claims 1 described a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style, the crop end points is the preshoot shoulder apart from the lateral separation of chest breadth line.The back porch end points is the backlash shoulder apart from the lateral separation of across back line.Normal forward and backward plane distance between two shoulders is respectively 2.3cm, 2.0cm.Basic sleeve mountain line style be defined as normal distance between two shoulders, after distance between two shoulders changed, sleeve mountain line style should corresponding adjustment.The angular bisector of chest breadth line and muffs bottom line is preceding recessed gesture apart from the air line distance of preceding muffs camber line; The angular bisector of across back line and muffs bottom line is the recurve gesture apart from the air line distance of back sleeve camber line; The difference in size of the recessed gesture of front and back muffs is generally a constant, so the available recurve gesture of relation of front and back sleeve mountain line style and muffs bottom line style is set up mathematic(al) mode.
3, determine method according to the level of claims 1 described a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style, front and back garment piece shoulder seam, latasuture are spliced to form three-dimensional muffs hole, point of shoulder point is summit Q in the position of muffs hole, the wide place of 1/2 muffs hole, muffs hole top is the O point, the size of muffs hole height is wide by muffs hole, the front and back muffs is dark determines, the wide thickness by human body side arm root of muffs hole, underwear thickness, shoulder pad thickness, lining, lining, lining thickness and loose part of certain decision.
4, determine method according to the level of claims 1 described a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style, the horizontal size of sleeve mountain line style determines that method must known size and condition be: muffs hole is wide, muffs hole is high, part is stitched on sleeve side solid angle degree α, muffs and sleeve mountain swings to, the thickness of lining, the recessed gesture of back sleeve, the being and not being of shoulder pad, the kind of shoulder pad, shoulder pad are apart from the distance of point of shoulder, the thickness coefficient of sleeve.[muffs hole is wide=☆, and the ☆ size can be measured human body or calculate by the clean chest measurement of normal human, and ☆=chest °/10+2.5+2 underwear is thick+(1～2).Muffs hole height=preceding muffs is dark-(muffs hole is wide/4-1.0).The thickness coefficient of sleeve and moulding to the design of front and back thickness, with having shoulder pad, no shoulder pad, shoulder pad relevant apart from distance, the front and back distance between two shoulders of point of shoulder].
5, determine method according to the level of claims 1 described a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style, definite method of sleeve mountain, back line style is to draw two right-angle side AB, OB earlier, AB ⊥ OB, the AB=muffs hole is wide+and sleeve thickness coefficient+seam part swings to the horizontal size of increase, OB=muffs hole height, connect OA form right angle triangle OAB, OA is sleeve mountain oblique line.According to the edge-on body angle [alpha] of known sleeve, cross the O point and make ∠ BOR=α again.Cross the A point and make the vertical line friendship OR of OR in C point, AC=BICEP.On OB, draw five lines that are parallel to AB, be referred to as horizontal line apart from a determining deviation,
Horizontal line 1Apart from O point 1.2,
Horizontal line 2Apart from O point 1.2+2.2,
Horizontal line 3At the mid point of OB,
Horizontal line 4Apart from AB line 2.2+2.2,
Horizontal line 5Apart from AB line 2.2.The high OB straight line of OC straight line and muffs hole is handed over
Water Horizontal line 1Distance between two points is
1Hand over
Horizontal line 2Distance between two points is
2 Horizontal line 3Mountain oblique line OA meets at the D point with sleeve, crosses the parallel lines friendship that the D point is made OB
Horizontal line 1In the E point; Hand over
Horizontal line 2In the F point.Cross the D point and do the parallel lines friendship of OR
Horizontal line 4In the M point; Hand over
Horizontal line 5In the N point, hand over AB in the G point.Cross C and make horizontal line CJ friendship OB in the P point, JP=recurve gesture+◎ (◎=0.5 is that no shoulder pad, ◎=1.0 are for there being shoulder pad) crosses the J point and makes the vertical line friendship AC of JC in the K point.
Level Line 1On get EL
1=☆/4+1+0.8
1,
Horizontal line 2On get FL
2=☆/4-1+0.8
2,
Water Horizontal line 4On get ML
4=KC/2,
Horizontal line 5On get NL
5=JC-0.8.
O ' on the extended line of OC, the size of OO ' with have, no shoulder pad, shoulder pad have or not cut-off rule relevant apart from the swinging to of the moulding of the distance of point of shoulder, shoulder pad, seam part, the thickness of lining, muffs top.Fairing connects O ', L
1, L
2, D, L
4, L
5, the A point is back sleeve mountain line style.
6, determine method according to the level of claims 1 described a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style, the horizontal size of foresleeve mountain line style is determined to adjust on the line style of sleeve mountain, back.L
1Outside 0.5, the L of point
2Point is outside 0.4, and the D point is inside 0.2, L
4Point is inside 1.5, L
5Point is inside 1.3, and O ', A point is constant, and the fairing connection is foresleeve mountain line style then.
7, determining method according to the level of claims 1 described a kind of another garment sleeve structure sleeve mountain line style, after determining foresleeve mountain line style on the line style of sleeve mountain, back, is symmetry axis with O ' C, finds the line of symmetry of foresleeve mountain line style, constitutes complete sleeve mountain, front and back line style.Q ' is the corresponding points of coincideing with point of shoulder point, O ' Q '=OQ.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 200410013915 CN1640335A (en) | 2004-01-16 | 2004-01-16 | Sleeve hill-line type horizontal determining method for garment sleeve structure |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 200410013915 CN1640335A (en) | 2004-01-16 | 2004-01-16 | Sleeve hill-line type horizontal determining method for garment sleeve structure |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| CN1640335A true CN1640335A (en) | 2005-07-20 |
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|---|---|---|---|
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Cited By (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104366854A (en) * | 2014-11-05 | 2015-02-25 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Business suit sleeve positioning and sewing method |
| CN109452710A (en) * | 2018-10-26 | 2019-03-12 | 四川大学 | A kind of method of circular fitting clothes curve |
| CN109527684A (en) * | 2018-12-28 | 2019-03-29 | 西京学院 | A kind of drafting method of clothes armhole and sleeve |
| CN111588132A (en) * | 2020-05-22 | 2020-08-28 | 常州纺织服装职业技术学院 | A method for determining the height of the sleeve of a jacket with padded shoulders |
| CN112376155A (en) * | 2020-10-26 | 2021-02-19 | 斓帛职业培训学校(桐乡)有限公司 | Weaving method for full-forming flat shoulder type shoulder line forward movement and application thereof |
-
2004
- 2004-01-16 CN CN 200410013915 patent/CN1640335A/en active Pending
Cited By (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104366854A (en) * | 2014-11-05 | 2015-02-25 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Business suit sleeve positioning and sewing method |
| CN104366854B (en) * | 2014-11-05 | 2016-02-10 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of method of business wear sleeve key approximation suture |
| CN109452710A (en) * | 2018-10-26 | 2019-03-12 | 四川大学 | A kind of method of circular fitting clothes curve |
| CN109527684A (en) * | 2018-12-28 | 2019-03-29 | 西京学院 | A kind of drafting method of clothes armhole and sleeve |
| CN111588132A (en) * | 2020-05-22 | 2020-08-28 | 常州纺织服装职业技术学院 | A method for determining the height of the sleeve of a jacket with padded shoulders |
| CN112376155A (en) * | 2020-10-26 | 2021-02-19 | 斓帛职业培训学校(桐乡)有限公司 | Weaving method for full-forming flat shoulder type shoulder line forward movement and application thereof |
| CN112376155B (en) * | 2020-10-26 | 2021-12-24 | 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 | Weaving method for full-forming flat shoulder type shoulder line forward movement and application thereof |
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