A kind of non-ironing, wash and wear lining with textile outward appearance
Technical field:
The invention belongs to the textile industry field of novel, relate to a kind of forever non-ironing, wash and wear lining, adopt conventional its preparation process to make with cotton textiles or cellulose fibre outward appearance.
Technical background:
Along with the progress of development of science and technology, social civilization and the enhancing of environmental protection consciousness, human yearning to the Nature grows with each passing day.The change of idea has caused people that the understanding theory of wearing clothes is constantly changed.After having passed through favor chemical-fibres filaments Fabric Style characteristics, then advocate have natural look, the fabric of comfortable atural staple fibre feel.Now, the lining of the textile style of apparatus, feel is made fashion clothing, has become the focus that manufacturer, distributors and consumer fall over each other to pursue.Though natural short fibre fabric is comfortable and easy to wear, feel is soft, affinity is strong, easily wrinkle easily contracts, and dress cooking difficulty does not meet the requirement of fast pace life.Making natural short fibre fabric possess technology non-ironing, the wash and wear characteristic is the focus of ready-made clothes circle research of weaving both at home and abroad in recent years.
For the problems such as non-ironing, wash and wear that solve pure cotton fabric, all be chemically to carry out durable press finish at present with resin.Its mechanism is because resin crosslinks fiber surface in fabric forms mocromembrane, thereby improves the elastic modelling quantity and the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of fabric.The development trend of noniron finish technology in recent years mainly concentrates on low formaldehyde and formaldehydeless noniron finish technology.Low formaldehyde finishing technique is finishing agent to be carried out etherification modified, makes it become low formaldehyde or ultra-low formaldehyde finishing agent, thereby reduces the free content of formaldehyde of cloth cover; Formaldehydeless finishing technique is to utilize group and the fiber that reactivity is big in the finishing agent to be combined into stable chemical bond, has limited moving of fiber, plays the conformal effect.Adopt chemical method that fabric is put in order the effect that will obtain many restrictive conditions are arranged.Require fabric to have good hygroscopicity, cloth cover cleaning, pH value up to standard before processing, the non-colored light that also will guarantee to dye changes.
Owing to adopt the chemical method finish fabric human body to be had the harm except that the free formaldehyde that contains, this method also can cause the decline of fabric strength, the deterioration of outward appearance feel, damage the physical and mechanical properties of fabric, whiteness reduces, and can't avoid because of problems such as dehydration, the irregular dressing liquid that brings of oven dry are irregular.The discharging of chemical reagent simultaneously can cause environmental pollution, and purified treatment can cause cost to increase.Because the above-mentioned defective of noniron finish technology is restricted its application.Adopt physical method ecological, environmental protection to realize the application technology of non-ironing, the wash and wear characteristic of pure-cotton fabric, yet there are no report.
Technology contents:
The present invention is intended to develop and a kind ofly has the lining of cotton textiles (or other cellulose fibres) outward appearance with the preparation clothes, make it possess forever non-ironing, wash and wear characteristic, and have shape memory function and substitute current utilization RESIN FINISH and make cotton textiles (or cellulose fibre) fabric possess technology non-ironing, the wash and wear characteristic, pollution-free in its production process, harmless.
Utilization of the present invention is combined into the yarn feeding device (patent No.: ZL01268916.5), preparation is skin component with the staple fibre, with the long filament is the core sheath structure bag core composite yarn of the staple fibre covered filament of core component, provides modulus and the by force conformality of stretching property and composite yarn fabric and drapability, stiffness as the core component for composite yarn by chemical-fibres filaments; Natural short fiber provides feel, style, bulkiness and the moisture absorption of natural fabric for complex yarn as the skin component of composite yarn; Serve as basis preparation composite yarn fabric with this composite yarn again, dyed then and high temperature stentering forming becomes this fabric to possess non-ironing, wash and wear characteristic lining.
1, on ring spinner, spins the bag core composite yarn of cotton (or other cellulose fibres) short fiber covered filament with skin-core structure.Its feature is as follows: the bag core composite yarn that 1. has the staple fibre covered filament of skin-core structure; 2. staple fibre component raw material: cotton, cotton type chemical fibre dimension or artificial fibre; 3. long filament component raw material: (68D~30D)/(24f~9f) terylene (PET) long filament or polyamide fibre PA long filament; 4. long filament and staple fibre ratio: the part by weight of long filament is 20%-35%, and the part by weight of staple fibre is 65%-80%; 5. kind: can extensively adapt to the compound resultant yarn of core-sheath-type bag core that various staple fibres and long filament make up; 6. staple fibre is to the coverage rate of long filament: do not expose with decoration method test long filament, clad structure is firmly stable.
2, this composite yarn is a skin component with the staple fibre, is the core component with the long filament.The appearance style that had both had staple fibre yarn; The mechanical characteristic that has long filament again.Utilize this composite yarn on loom, to prepare composite fabric.This fabric has novel composite construction, is the fibrous skeleton of fabric with the long filament promptly, is the surface fiber of fabric with the cotton fiber.
3, behind dyed back arrangement and the stentering forming, non-ironing, wash and wear performance that this fabric possesses.
Concrete technology is as follows:
(1) spinning process:
1. cotton or other cellulose fluff obtain the short fiber yarn through operations such as shredding, removal of impurities, combing, rolling, drafting, drawing-off, rove;
2. obtain PET, the FDY long filament of 50dtex, 30dtex, 20dtex by the spinning technique of long filament;
3. on through the fine spining machine of transforming, by special composite spinning technology, the composite yarn that preparation has the core-sheath-type structure;
4. winder
(2) preparation of fabric;
1. Fabric Design: twill yarn card class 21
S* 16
S120 * 58 44 "
20
S×20
S 120×58 44″
Plain weave poplin cloth class J60
S* J60
S150 * 110 63 "
2. fabric production technology:
Its warp thread common process passes the back looming weaving by weft yarn again by winder, warping, sizing process and becomes grey cloth.
(3) coloration of textile materials, back thread finishing technique:
Routinely process through destarch, bleaching, mercerising, sanding, enzyme wash, dye, soft, tentering and preshrunk finishes.
The present invention adopts the combined machining method of physical modification, so can not cause the destruction to ecological environment, can reach the safety requirements of ecological textile.Because non-ironing, the wash and wear characteristic of this lining or clothes stem from raw materials used performance own, do not disappear so can or repeatedly not wash, so it is a kind of permanent non-ironing, wash and wear product because of long-term dress.Environmental protection textiles as forever non-ironing, wash and wear characteristic with textile outward appearance, both can satisfy miss old times or old friends after people enter the new millennium, the demand of uphold nature, can overcome easily the contract shortcoming of reason hard to predict of the easy wrinkle of natural short fiber clothes again, adapt to the allegro life idea of new period people; Can avoid simultaneously complex process that RESIN FINISH brings, condition harshness, cost height, environmental protection and to the problems such as harm of human body.
Produce clothes with forever non-ironing, the wash and wear lining of tool cotton textiles of the present invention (or cellulose fibre) outward appearance and can avoid the harm problem of the removing residue formaldehyde of RESIN FINISH human body, being fit to the requirement of environment-friendly type textiles, is a kind of manufacturing technique method and product of environment-friendly type; With core-sheath-type long filament/cotton (or cellulose fibre) short fiber composite yarn is raw material, the style advantage of short fiber and filament yarn fabric rubbed be one, strength and elongation, high-modulus, drapability, conformal wrinkle resistance with filament yarn fabric, the characteristic that yarn itself has make the harness of lining kimonos that permanent DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, non-ironing, wash and wear performance be arranged; The composite yarn of being made cortex by cotton fiber makes fabric have the outward appearance of short fibre fabric, and the harness of lining kimonos has feel, bulkiness, moisture absorption poisture-penetrability and the affinity of natural short fibre fabric.
The specific embodiment:
1, raw material: 1. short fiber component: cotton, hair, viscose glue, day silk, model, soybean protein short fiber;
2. long filament component: polyester drawn yarns (PET FDY);
2, compound mode:
(1) bale of cotton polyester filament: 1. C21
S+ 50D is C32 2.
S+ 50D is JC40 3.
S+ 50D is JC45 4.
S+ 30D is JC60 5.
S+ 30D
(2) day silk bag polyester filament: 1. T40
S+ 30T is T45 2.
S+ 30T is T60 3.
S+ 30D
(3) model bag polyester filament: 1. M40
S+ 30D is M45 2.
S+ 30D is M60 3.
S+ 30D
(4) soybean fiber bag polyester filament: 1. D40
S+ 30D is D45 2.
S+ 30D
3, fabric panel technological parameter:
Technology twill card sound of a bird chirping plain weave poplin cloth
The cotton short fiber of short fiber/filament core-spun yarn/polyester filament cladded yarn combed cotton short fiber/polyester filament cladded yarn
Number 20
S* 20
S60
S* 60
S
Density 108 * 54 44 " 150 * 110 63 "
Fabric tissue 2/1 2/1
The fabric panel outer surface is staple fibre (cotton, not generation system, day silk, wool etc.), and the fibrous skeleton of fabric panel inside is by long filament (polyester filament, cotton synthetic fibre long filament) formation composite fabric structure.
4, dyeing back arrangement:
Process is finished through destarch, bleaching, mercerising, dyeing, softness, tentering and preshrunk routinely.
5, non-ironing, the wash and wear performance of fabric:
" the khaki fabric is an example, and folding line recovers anxious bullet 244 degree in angle, slow bullet 280 degree with 20 * 20/120 * 58 44; Flat deflection 4-5 level; Flatness is equivalent to U.S. AATCC standard 3-4 level.
Embodiment 1: adopt above-mentioned technical process, choosing warp thread is JC20
S+ PETFDY 75
D, weft yarn is JC20
S+ PETFDY 75
DSystem twill card sound of a bird chirping lining, its number is 20
S* 20
SDensity is 108 * 54 44 "; Fabric tissue is 2/1; Be decided to be the 3# product.
Embodiment 2: adopt above-mentioned technical process, choosing warp thread is JC20
S+ PETFDY 75
D, weft yarn is JC20
S+ PETFDY 75
D, behind dyeing, add resin treatment technology, make twill card sound of a bird chirping lining, its number is 20
S* 16
SDensity is 120 * 58 44 "; Fabric tissue is 2/1; Be decided to be the 4# product.
The effect of this lining or clothes is as follows through contrast experiment and detection particular content:
Sample number 1# 2# 3# 4#
Folding line recovers angle (degree) anxious 173 224 244 251
Slow 203 250 280 294
Quite other empirical value of the crease-resistant level of AATCC124 is 2 grades 3 grades 3.5 grades 4 grades
Flat deflection (level) 1-2 3-4 4-5 4-5
Flatness (level) 1-2 3-4 3-4 3-4
Pilling (level) 2-3 2 4-5 4-5
Fold abrasion (inferior) warp-wise 33 87 78 81
Broadwise 46 123 79 78
Remarks: 1# is that 2020 Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production cards (in the same old way), 2# are that polyester cotton blended yarn card (in the same old way), 3# are that the bale of cotton is washed 2020 yarn cards (biology enzyme processing), 4# is that the bale of cotton is washed 2020 yarn cards (biology enzyme adds RESIN FINISH).
By testing result as can be seen, its wrinkle restorability of lining of this method preparation is better than polyester cotton, and suitable with the lining of RESIN FINISH; According to U.S. AATCC standard, the fabric wash and wear flatness of test reaches more than 3.5 grades, possesses non-ironing, wash and wear performance.