CN118490595A - Composition with oil control and moisturizing effects and application thereof - Google Patents
Composition with oil control and moisturizing effects and application thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN118490595A CN118490595A CN202410947338.1A CN202410947338A CN118490595A CN 118490595 A CN118490595 A CN 118490595A CN 202410947338 A CN202410947338 A CN 202410947338A CN 118490595 A CN118490595 A CN 118490595A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- composition
- moisturizing
- surfactant
- glucose
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 60
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 title claims description 37
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Natural products OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 239000008103 glucose Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- QYDYPVFESGNLHU-KHPPLWFESA-N methyl oleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OC QYDYPVFESGNLHU-KHPPLWFESA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 240000002791 Brassica napus Species 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 235000004977 Brassica sinapistrum Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- QYDYPVFESGNLHU-UHFFFAOYSA-N elaidic acid methyl ester Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC QYDYPVFESGNLHU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 238000000855 fermentation Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 230000004151 fermentation Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 241000222120 Candida <Saccharomycetales> Species 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 229940073769 methyl oleate Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 229940059958 centella asiatica extract Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- BNMGUJRJUUDLHW-HCZMHFOYSA-N Madecassoside Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]([C@@H]([C@H]1O)O)OC[C@H]1O[C@H]([C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O)O)OC(=O)[C@]12CC[C@H]([C@@H]([C@H]1C=1[C@@]([C@@]3(C[C@@H](O)[C@H]4[C@](C)(CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)C[C@]4(C)[C@H]3CC=1)C)(C)CC2)C)C)[C@@H]1O[C@@H](C)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O BNMGUJRJUUDLHW-HCZMHFOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- BNMGUJRJUUDLHW-HLUHVYOBSA-N Madecassoside Natural products C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@]3(C)C(=CC[C@@H]4[C@@]5(C)C[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@](C)(CO)[C@@H]5[C@H](O)C[C@@]34C)[C@@H]2[C@H]1C)C(=O)O[C@@H]6O[C@H](CO[C@@H]7O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O[C@@H]8O[C@H](C)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]8O)[C@H](O)[C@H]7O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]6O BNMGUJRJUUDLHW-HLUHVYOBSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- QCYLIQBVLZBPNK-UHFFFAOYSA-N asiaticoside A Natural products O1C(C(=O)C(C)C)=CC(C)C(C2(C(OC(C)=O)CC34C5)C)C1CC2(C)C3CCC(C1(C)C)C45CCC1OC1OCC(O)C(O)C1O QCYLIQBVLZBPNK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N beta-D-glucose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229960001031 glucose Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229940090813 madecassoside Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 30
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 26
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 claims description 25
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 18
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 claims description 13
- PXEDJBXQKAGXNJ-QTNFYWBSSA-L disodium L-glutamate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC([O-])=O PXEDJBXQKAGXNJ-QTNFYWBSSA-L 0.000 claims description 12
- 229940079779 disodium cocoyl glutamate Drugs 0.000 claims description 12
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- KTYVHLCLTPLSGC-UHFFFAOYSA-N amino propanoate Chemical compound CCC(=O)ON KTYVHLCLTPLSGC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
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- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- SAVLIIGUQOSOEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-octanoylglycine Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)NCC(O)=O SAVLIIGUQOSOEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 5
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 5
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- 239000003002 pH adjusting agent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000004321 preservation Methods 0.000 abstract description 8
- 239000004519 grease Substances 0.000 abstract description 6
- 230000002195 synergetic effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 6
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 48
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 48
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 47
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 37
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 30
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- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 9
- LWZFANDGMFTDAV-BURFUSLBSA-N [(2r)-2-[(2r,3r,4s)-3,4-dihydroxyoxolan-2-yl]-2-hydroxyethyl] dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O LWZFANDGMFTDAV-BURFUSLBSA-N 0.000 description 7
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- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 4
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- RMTFNDVZYPHUEF-XZBKPIIZSA-N 3-O-methyl-D-glucose Chemical compound O=C[C@H](O)[C@@H](OC)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO RMTFNDVZYPHUEF-XZBKPIIZSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 206010067484 Adverse reaction Diseases 0.000 description 3
- DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycine Natural products NCC(O)=O DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000006838 adverse reaction Effects 0.000 description 3
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 3
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- TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4'-hydroxyacetophenone Chemical compound CC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 208000020154 Acnes Diseases 0.000 description 2
- 240000004307 Citrus medica Species 0.000 description 2
- 239000004471 Glycine Substances 0.000 description 2
- 206010020751 Hypersensitivity Diseases 0.000 description 2
- QNAYBMKLOCPYGJ-REOHCLBHSA-N L-alanine Chemical compound C[C@H](N)C(O)=O QNAYBMKLOCPYGJ-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 description 2
- -1 Octanoyl glycine Chemical compound 0.000 description 2
- 235000004279 alanine Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 238000007405 data analysis Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005238 degreasing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005187 foaming Methods 0.000 description 2
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000036541 health Effects 0.000 description 2
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- ZTOKUMPYMPKCFX-CZNUEWPDSA-N (E)-17-[(2R,3R,4S,5S,6R)-6-(acetyloxymethyl)-3-[(2S,3R,4S,5S,6R)-6-(acetyloxymethyl)-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxan-2-yl]oxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-2-yl]oxyoctadec-9-enoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCC/C=C/CCCCCCC(C)O[C@@H]1O[C@H](COC(C)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](COC(C)=O)O1 ZTOKUMPYMPKCFX-CZNUEWPDSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
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- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
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Abstract
The invention relates to a composition with oil control and moisture preservation effects and application thereof, wherein the composition comprises a first functional component, octanoylglycine and candida melissii/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product; the first functional component comprises centella asiatica extract, madecassoside and glucose. The composition with the oil control and moisture preservation effects has potential synergistic effect on the oil control and moisture preservation effects, and has a strong moisture preservation effect while removing grease.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and relates to a composition with oil control and moisturizing effects and application thereof.
Background
Excessive secretion of skin grease can cause pores to be large, skin to be greasy and bright, and even cause a series of problems such as acnes and acnes, so that the oil control and moisture preservation of the skin are necessary. There are many cleansing foam products with oil control effect on the market, which are used for meeting the oil control requirements of oily skin people. The facial foam is a popular product in the current facial products because of the convenience and mildness of the use.
However, in order to achieve better oil control effect, the conventional oil control cleansing foam usually has more surfactant and oil control functional components, but neglects the moisturizing effect. Because the surfactant has certain degreasing force and irritation, and is matched with an oil control component, the problem of water shortage of skin can be further aggravated after long-term use, and skin sensitivity is caused.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a composition with the effects of controlling oil and keeping moisture and application thereof.
In order to achieve the aim of the invention, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
In a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition having an oil control and moisturizing effect, wherein the composition comprises a first effect ingredient, caprylylglycine and a candida melissii/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product;
the first functional component comprises centella asiatica extract, madecassoside and glucose.
The core requirement of the oil-control facial cleanser is that dirt is cleaned, the oil-control effect is achieved, the skin is not damaged, the skin is not dry and is not stimulated, the activity of 5 alpha-reductase is inhibited, and the oil secretion is reduced fundamentally. And the octanoylglycine and candida melissii/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation products in the composition and the centella asiatica extract and madecassoside in the first functional component have potential synergistic effects.
Centella asiatica extract, madecassoside, contains a variety of active chemicals that help support skin barrier function, promote wound healing, and help reduce skin sensitivity and improve skin moisture. Can inhibit various inflammatory factors, thereby playing a role in relieving. The molecular weight of the fermentation product of candida melissa/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate is more than 99 percent, and the residual capacity of the surfactant is higher than that of a common fat-forming agent because of the lactone and long carbon chain morphological structure of the surfactant, so the surfactant can stay on skin, has fat-forming property, is oil-soluble and is easier to wash away oily products. The natural mixture with the lactone type and acid type ratio of 72:28 has lower surface tension and Critical Micelle Concentration (CMC), and effectively improves the cleaning efficiency. Has certain 5 alpha-reductase activity and antibacterial activity, can inhibit the growth of microorganisms, destroy biological membranes and effectively control oil. Octanoyl glycine is used as a biological carrier of glycine, has an amphiphilic structure and good skin affinity, and can limit excessive secretion of grease by inhibiting 5 alpha-reductase activity, inhibit proliferation of bacteria which cause acne skin to easily occur, and achieve an effective oil control effect.
Preferably, the composition comprises 0.02-0.3 part by mass of a first effective component, 0.05-0.4 part by mass of octanoylglycine and 0.1-2 parts by mass of candida melissima/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product.
The first functional component may be selected from 0.02 part, 0.05 part, 0.08 part, 0.1 part, 0.12 part, 0.15 part, 0.18 part, 0.2 part, 0.22 part, 0.25 part, 0.28 part, 0.3 part, etc., the octanoylglycine may be selected from 0.05 part, 0.08 part, 0.1 part, 0.12 part, 0.15 part, 0.18 part, 0.2 part, 0.22 part, 0.25 part, 0.28 part, 0.3 part, 0.32 part, 0.35 part, 0.38 part, 0.4 part, etc., and the candida mellea/glucose/rapeseed oleic acid methyl ester fermentation product may be selected from 0.1 part, 0.2 part, 0.3 part, 0.4 part, 0.5 part, 0.6 part, 0.7 part, 0.8 part, 0.9 part, 1.1 part, 1.2 part, 1.3 part, 0.32 part, 0.35 part, 0.38 part, 0.4 part, etc., which are not specifically within the range of the above, and the other values may be selected from 0.9 part, 1.1.9 part, 1.5 part, 1.6 part, 1.5 part, etc.
Preferably, the composition is prepared by mixing caprylylglycine and candida melissii/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product at 75-85 ℃ (e.g., 75 ℃, 76 ℃, 77 ℃, 78 ℃, 79 ℃, 80 ℃, 81 ℃, 82 ℃,83 ℃, 84 ℃, 85 ℃, etc.), and then physically mixing with the first functional ingredient at 20-30 ℃ (20 ℃,21 ℃,22 ℃, 23 ℃, 24 ℃, 25 ℃, 26 ℃, 27 ℃, 28 ℃, 29 ℃, 30 ℃, etc.).
Other specific point values in the above numerical ranges are selectable, and will not be described in detail herein.
In a second aspect, the invention provides the use of the composition with oil control and moisturizing effects according to the first aspect in a cleansing product.
Preferably, the composition with oil control and moisturizing effects is 0.15-2% by mass, for example 0.15%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2% by mass, of the cleansing product, and other specific values in the above numerical ranges are selected, and will not be described in detail herein.
In a third aspect, the invention provides an oil-control moisturizing cleansing foam comprising the composition with oil-control moisturizing effect of the first aspect, a surfactant, an antioxidant, a humectant and water.
Preferably, the oil-control and moisturizing cleansing foam comprises, by mass, 0.15-2% of the oil-control and moisturizing composition of the first aspect, 10-20% of a surfactant, 0.2-0.5% of an antioxidant, 0.5-5% of a moisturizing agent and water.
The composition with the oil control and moisture retention effects can be selected from 0.15%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2% and the like by mass percent, the surfactant can be selected from 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20% and the like by mass percent, the antioxidant can be selected from 0.2%, 0.22%, 0.24%, 0.26%, 0.28%, 0.3%, 0.32%, 0.34%, 0.36%, 0.38%, 0.4%, 0.42%, 0.44%, 0.46%, 0.48%, 0.5% and the like by mass percent, and the humectant can be selected from 0.5%, 0.8%, 1.2%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.8%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 3.2%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 3.5%, and the like by mass percent, and the antioxidant can be selected from other values within the range of the values of the range of the values of the content of the oil control and moisture retention effects.
Preferably, the surfactant includes an amino acid surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, and an amphoteric surfactant.
The surfactant has certain degreasing force and other self characteristics, so that certain irritation exists, the surfactant monomer can cause irritation, and the micelle volume is large, so that the surface activity is difficult to permeate into skin; the surfactant system with low CMC can form micelle easily to reduce the concentration of monomer in the system, so as to reduce the irritation of the product; the disodium cocoyl glutamate and the sodium cocoyl amino propionate both have lower cmc values, and meanwhile, the sodium lauroyl amphoacetate and the PEG-80 sorbitan laurate are compounded, so that the combination is easier to form large micelles, and the electrostatic repulsive force between hydrophilic groups in the micelles is reduced, so that the purposes of small irritation and oil-sensitive skin protection are achieved.
The formula system which takes the amino acid surfactant as the main component and is compounded with the amphoteric and nonionic surfactant can also play a role in deeply cleaning the surface layer of the skin.
Preferably, the amino acid surfactant comprises disodium cocoyl glutamate and/or sodium cocoyl amino propionate.
Preferably, the amino acid surfactant is a combination of disodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium cocoyl aminopropionate.
The disodium cocoyl glutamate and the sodium cocoyl amino propionate are derived from natural raw materials, can be highly biodegraded, and has very mild properties, fine and stable foam and fresh skin feel after washing. Disodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium cocoyl aminopropionate are low in irritation; compared with the conventional amino acid, the foaming performance in hard water is outstanding, and the foaming performance is particularly resistant to hard water.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant comprises PEG-80 sorbitan laurate.
PEG-80 sorbitan laurate reduces overall irritation, so that the product has high cleaning power, ensures the mildness of the product, and is more suitable for oil sensitive muscles.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant comprises sodium lauroyl amphoacetate.
The lauroyl ampholytic sodium acetate has good detergency, stronger hard water resistance and excellent foam performance.
Preferably, the humectant comprises any one or a combination of at least two of 1, 2-hexanediol, alanine or PPG-10 methyl glucose ether.
The face cleaning product can clean face dirt, particularly realize the oil control effect, and can certainly take away the oil on the face part to lead to the phenomena of dry and tight skin and the like, so that the PPG-10 methyl glucose ether is added into the formula as water-based oil, so that the water-based oil has strong fat-imparting force and can impart a layer of protective oil to the skin; alanine has high-efficiency moisturizing effect, can supplement and strengthen skin moisture, keep skin moist and luster, improve the moisturizing effect of the product, and further relieve the phenomenon of dry and tight skin.
Preferably, the antioxidant comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone.
Preferably, the oil-control moisturizing cleansing foam further comprises any one or a combination of at least two of a skin conditioner, a pH regulator and a solubilizer.
Preferably, the oil-control and moisturizing cleansing foam further comprises any one or a combination of at least two of 0.01-0.1% of skin conditioning agent, 0.01-0.4% of pH regulator and 0.05-0.5% of solubilizer in percentage by mass.
The skin conditioning agent may be selected from 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, etc., the pH adjuster may be selected from 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.05%, 0.08%, 0.1%, 0.12%, 0.15%, 0.18%, 0.2%, 0.22%, 0.25%, 0.28%, 0.3%, 0.32%, 0.35%, 0.38%, 0.4%, etc., and the solubilizer may be selected from 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.15%, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0.3%, 0.35%, 0.4%, 0.45%, 0.5%, etc., and other specific values within the above numerical ranges may be selected, which will not be described herein.
Preferably, the pH adjuster comprises citric acid.
Preferably, the skin conditioning agent comprises citron peel oil.
Preferably, the solubilising agent comprises PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing the oil-control moisturizing cleansing foam according to the third aspect, the method comprising:
(1) Mixing water with a surfactant to obtain a first mixture;
(2) Mixing the first mixture with antioxidant, and mixing with the oil-controlling and moisturizing composition and humectant.
Preferably, the water is mixed with the surfactant at a temperature of 75-80 ℃ for a time of 5-10 min.
The temperature may be 75 ℃, 76 ℃, 77 ℃, 78 ℃, 79 ℃, 80 ℃ and the like, the time may be 5min, 6 min, 7 min, 8 min, 9 min, 10min and the like, and other specific point values within the above numerical range may be selected, and will not be described in detail herein.
Preferably, the temperature of the mixture with the antioxidant is 55-60 ℃ and the time is 10-15 min.
The temperature may be 55 ℃, 56 ℃, 57 ℃, 58 ℃, 59 ℃,60 ℃ and the like, the time may be 10 min, 11 min, 12 min, 13 min, 14 min, 15min and the like, and other specific point values within the above numerical range may be selected, and will not be described in detail herein.
Preferably, the temperature of mixing with the oil control moisturizing composition and the humectant is 25-35 ℃ for a period of 10-20 min.
The temperature may be 25 ℃, 26 ℃, 27 ℃, 28 ℃, 29 ℃, 30 ℃, 31 ℃, 32 ℃, 33 ℃, 34 ℃, 35 ℃ and the like, the time may be 10 min, 11 min, 12 min, 13 min, 14 min, 15min, 16 min, 17 min, 18 min, 19 min, 20 min and the like, and other specific values within the above numerical ranges may be selected, and will not be described again.
Preferably, mixing with the oil control moisturizing composition and humectant also includes mixing with a solubilizing agent and/or a skin conditioning agent.
Preferably, mixing with the antioxidant further comprises mixing with a pH adjuster.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
The core requirement of the oil-control facial cleanser is that dirt is cleaned, the oil-control effect is achieved, the skin is not damaged, the skin is not dry and is not stimulated, the activity of 5 alpha-reductase is inhibited, and the oil secretion is reduced fundamentally. And the octanoylglycine and candida melissii/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation products in the composition and the centella asiatica extract and madecassoside in the first functional component have potential synergistic effects.
Detailed Description
In order to further describe the technical means adopted by the present invention and the effects thereof, the following describes the technical scheme of the present invention in combination with the preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the scope of the embodiments.
The sources of the functional components contained in the products related to the following examples and comparative examples are as follows (only the functional components are represented, and the necessary auxiliary materials contained in other commercial raw materials are not described in detail):
Centella X is a self-grinding product of the company Sapindus dad under the trade name Centella X, and comprises Centella asiatica extract and madecassoside and glucose.
The fermentation product of candida melissus/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate is commercially available from the company boton under the trade name SOFOBOTON sophorolipid SL 50.
PEG-80 sorbitan laurate is commercially available from Croda under the trade name SP TWEEN 28 MBAL-LQ- (SG).
PPG-10 methyl glucose ether is commercially available from One Sen Chem under the trade name OSC-P10M.
The citron peel oil is commercially available from Yuan Long corporation under the trade designation LEMON OIL ITALIAN/QL 20998.
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is commercially available from Croda under the trade designation CRODURET 50 0-SS- (SG).
The Centella asiatica extract in Centella asiatica extract was 0.5% by mass, the madecassoside was 5% by mass, and the balance was glucose.
Example 1
The embodiment provides a composition with oil control and moisture preservation effects, which comprises 0.15 part of Centella X, 0.15 part of octanoylglycine and 1.5 parts of candida melissima/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product in parts by weight.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: mixing octanoylglycine and fermentation product of candida melissi/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate at 80 ℃, cooling to 25 ℃, and physically mixing with Centella X.
Example 2
The embodiment provides a composition with oil control and moisture preservation effects, which comprises, by mass, 0.25 part of Centella X, 0.1 part of octanoylglycine and 4 parts of candida melissi/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product.
The preparation method is described in example 1.
Example 3
The embodiment provides a composition with oil control and moisture preservation effects, which comprises, by mass, 0.06 part of Centella X, 0.4 part of octanoylglycine and 0.4 part of candida melissi/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product.
The preparation method is described in example 1.
Comparative example 1
This comparative example provides a composition which differs from example 1 only in that it does not contain Centella X, and its reduced mass is apportioned to the mass of the caprylylglycine and the candida melissus/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product, the other ingredients and amounts remaining unchanged.
The preparation method is described in example 1.
Comparative example 2
This comparative example provides a composition which differs from example 1 only in that it does not contain caprylylglycine, and its reduced mass is apportioned to the mass of the fermentation product of Centella X and Candida bee/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate, with the other ingredients and amounts remaining unchanged.
The preparation method is described in example 1.
Comparative example 3
This comparative example provides a composition which differs from example 1 only in that the reduced mass of the candida apis/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product is divided proportionally to the mass of caprylylglycine and Centella X, the other ingredients and amounts remaining unchanged.
The preparation method is described in example 1.
Application example 1
The application example provides an oil-control and moisturizing facial cleansing foam, which comprises the following formula:
the preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing water with a surfactant at 78 ℃ for 8 min to obtain a first mixture;
(2) Mixing the first mixture with pH regulator and antioxidant at 58 deg.C for 12 min, and mixing with solubilizer, skin conditioner, the composition of example 1 and humectant at 30deg.C for 15: 15 min.
Application example 2
The application example provides an oil-control and moisturizing facial cleansing foam, which comprises the following formula:
the preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing water with a surfactant at 75 ℃ for 10 min to obtain a first mixture;
(2) Mixing the first mixture with pH regulator and antioxidant at 55deg.C for 15 min, and mixing with solubilizer, skin conditioner, the composition of example 2 and humectant at 25deg.C for 20: 20 min.
Application example 3
The application example provides an oil-control and moisturizing facial cleansing foam, which comprises the following formula:
the preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing water with a surfactant at 80 ℃ for 5min to obtain a first mixture;
(2) Mixing the first mixture with pH regulator and antioxidant at 60deg.C for 10 min, and mixing with solubilizer, skin conditioner, composition of example 3 and humectant at 35deg.C for 10 min.
Application example 4
The present application example provides a cleansing foam for controlling oil and moisturizing, which is different from application example 1 only in that disodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium cocoyl aminopropionate are not contained, and the reduced mass is proportionally distributed to the mass of PEG-80 sorbitan laurate and sodium lauroyl amphoacetate, and other components and contents are kept unchanged.
The preparation method is referred to in application example 1.
Application example 5
The present application example provides a cleansing foam for controlling oil and moisturizing, which is different from application example 1 only in that PEG-80 sorbitan laurate is not contained, and the reduced mass thereof is proportionally distributed to the mass of disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl aminopropionate and sodium lauroyl amphoacetate, and other components and contents remain unchanged.
The preparation method is referred to in application example 1.
Application example 6
The present application example provides a cleansing foam for controlling oil and moisturizing, which is different from application example 1 only in that sodium lauroyl amphoacetate is not contained, and the reduced mass thereof is proportionally distributed to the mass of disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl amidopropionate and PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, and other components and contents remain unchanged.
The preparation method is referred to in application example 1.
Application example 7
The present application example provides a cleansing foam for controlling oil and moisturizing, which is different from application example 1 only in that disodium cocoyl glutamate is not contained, and the reduced mass is distributed to the mass of sodium cocoyl aminopropionate, and other components and contents are kept unchanged.
The preparation method is referred to in application example 1.
Application example 8
The present application example provides a cleansing foam for controlling oil and moisturizing, which is different from application example 1 only in that it does not contain sodium cocoamidopropionate, and its reduced mass is distributed to the mass of disodium cocoamidoglutamate, and other components and contents remain unchanged.
The preparation method is referred to in application example 1.
Comparative application example 1
This comparative application example provides a cleansing foam which differs from application example 1 only in that the composition of example 1 is replaced by the composition of comparative example 1 in equal amounts, with the other ingredients and amounts remaining unchanged.
The preparation method is referred to in application example 1.
Comparative application example 2
This comparative application example provides a cleansing foam which differs from application example 1 only in that the composition of example 1 is replaced by the composition of comparative example 2 in equal amounts, with the other ingredients and amounts remaining unchanged.
The preparation method is referred to in application example 1.
Comparative application example 3
This comparative application example provides a cleansing foam which differs from application example 1 only in that the composition of example 1 is replaced by the composition of comparative example 3 in equal amounts, with the other ingredients and amounts remaining unchanged.
The preparation method is referred to in application example 1.
Test example 1
1. Purpose of testing
The oil control and moisture retention effects of the samples were comprehensively evaluated by continuous human use of the samples for 28 days and by instrumental measurements.
2. Test protocol
2.1 Subject information
TABLE 1
2.2 Subject screening and withdrawal criteria
2.2.1 Criteria for enrollment
-Healthy men or women, aged 18-60 years;
-no use of facial products with the same efficacy as the test products, such as oil control efficacy, one month before the test development;
cosmetic, health care, pharmaceutical or other type of product that is willing to have the same efficacy as the test product, such as oil control efficacy, is not used during the test, in addition to the test product;
The Chinese language can be read, the test informed consent is accurately understood and signed, the return visit time of the test can be matched and participated, and the self health condition or any change of the medicine can be reflected in time, so that adverse reaction symptoms can be reflected.
2.2.2 Exclusion criteria
Any of the following conditions must be excluded from the study:
-women currently in lactation or gestation, or women planning pregnancy in the future 2 months;
facial skin with obvious sunburn, scar, pigmented nevi, and hirsutism or other conditions that may affect the test measurements;
-facial skin with bacterial, viral or fungal infections;
Patients suffering from chronic skin diseases (such as skin tumours, rosacea, eczema, lupus erythematosus, seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, severe exfoliative epidermis, etc.);
a history of immunosuppressive or immunodeficiency conditions (including HIV or AIDS), or the current use of immunosuppressive drugs or radiation therapy;
-patients suffering from chronic diseases and endocrine disorders such as asthma, epilepsy, diabetes, hypertension, hyperthyroidism or hypothyroidism;
Other clinical trials were enrolled within 3 months;
Any drug that may affect the skin condition or response, such as antihistamines, antibiotics, insulin, anti-inflammatory drugs, vitamin a, steroid drugs, aspirin, thyroid drugs, etc., is used in the past 6 months or is currently being used;
The tested part is subjected to medical treatment such as laser treatment, chemical stripping and other cosmetic treatment, and the botulinum and other minimally invasive cosmetic treatment within 6 months;
diagnosed with allergies or other known or suspected allergic reactions (systemic, inhaled or topical), those with a history of sensitivity to the ingredients of the formulation;
Other pathologies or conditions which, according to the judgment of the test institution, have reduced possibilities of inclusion or complicate inclusion, such as those which are liable to cause missed visits, frequent changes in working environment, unstable living environment, etc., alcoholism and/or psychoactive substances, drug abusers and dependents;
-a person with a history of mental illness or a failure to self-care.
2.2.3 Exit criteria
During the test, the subjects have adverse reactions, no trouble visits or violations of the test scheme (such as using other cosmetics or drugs with influence on the test results) and other special reasons, and the test institutions evaluate and confirm that the subjects are required to exit if the subjects are no longer suitable for continuing the test.
2.3 Test product handling
Before testing, laboratory technicians blindly set the products, and after testing is finished, all the tested products are recovered.
3. Test method
3.1. Product using method
TABLE 2
3.2. Evaluation method
Skin surface grease content test method: the forehead area was tested using a Sebumeter and MPA580 three times, taking the average.
Skin stratum corneum moisture content test method: the whole face was tested using Coneometer, CM825 and the average value taken three times.
The washing sense testing method comprises the following steps: the test uses a method of self-planning consumer testing based on a combination of references and experience. The references are as follows: liu Weiyi, zhou Lin, zhao Hua cosmetic efficacy evaluation (XIII) -consumer use test [ J ]. Daily chemical industry 2021,51 (6): 6.
Through the form of consumer questionnaires, the relevant evaluation of the test facial foam of the subject after the test facial foam is used under normal conditions is collected, and the effect of the product on verifying the foam richness, the cleanliness after washing, the moistening feeling after washing and the comfort after washing of the sample for inspection is evaluated.
4. Data analysis
The data analysis used SPSS 21.0 statistical software.
5. Test results
5.1 Short-term oil control
Descriptive statistics of skin surface oil content (short term)
88 Subjects were equally divided into 11 groups of 8 persons each.
TABLE 3 Table 3
As can be seen from the data in Table 3, the product of the invention has good short-term oil control effect, and the first functional component, octanoylglycine and candida melissii/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product have a certain synergistic effect in reducing the secretion of skin grease, which is indispensable. And the combination effect of the amino acid surfactant, the nonionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant is better, and the combination effect of the disodium cocoyl glutamate and the sodium cocoyl aminopropionate in the amino acid surfactant is better than that of the disodium cocoyl glutamate and the sodium cocoyl aminopropionate which are singly used.
5.2 Long-acting oil control
TABLE 4 Table 4
As can be seen from the data in table 4, the product has a good long-acting oil control effect, and the first functional component, octanoylglycine and candida melissii/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product have a certain synergistic effect in reducing the secretion of skin grease, which is indispensable. The surfactant has little effect on long-acting oil control.
5.3 Moisture retention test
Descriptive statistics of skin stratum corneum moisture analysis
TABLE 5
As can be seen from the data in Table 5, the product has a good moisturizing effect, wherein 0h is the moisture content of the horny layer is increased before the product is used, and the first functional component, octanoylglycine and candida melissi/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation products have a certain synergistic effect on the effect, and the influence of the surfactant on the moisturizing effect is small.
5.4 Washing feel test
TABLE 6
TABLE 7
6. Adverse reaction evaluation
Each subject used the test product as required within the prescribed time, and showed no adverse reaction according to the skin reaction recording results according to the 2015 edition of cosmetic safety technical Specification.
The applicant states that the present invention is illustrated by the above examples as a composition having oil control and moisturizing effects and its use, but the present invention is not limited to the above examples, i.e. it is not meant that the present invention must be practiced in dependence upon the above examples. It should be apparent to those skilled in the art that any modification of the present invention, equivalent substitution of raw materials for the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific modes, etc., falls within the scope of the present invention and the scope of disclosure.
The preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail above, but the present invention is not limited to the specific details of the above embodiments, and various simple modifications can be made to the technical solution of the present invention within the scope of the technical concept of the present invention, and all the simple modifications belong to the protection scope of the present invention.
In addition, the specific features described in the above embodiments may be combined in any suitable manner, and in order to avoid unnecessary repetition, various possible combinations are not described further.
Claims (10)
1. A composition with oil control and moisture retention effects, which is characterized by comprising a first functional component, octanoylglycine and candida melissus/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product;
the first functional component comprises centella asiatica extract, madecassoside and glucose.
2. The composition with oil control and moisture retention effects according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises 0.02-0.3 part by mass of a first effective component, 0.05-0.4 part by mass of octanoylglycine and 0.1-5 parts by mass of candida melissima/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product.
3. The composition with oil and moisture control effect according to claim 1, wherein the composition is prepared by mixing caprylylglycine and candida melissus/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product at 75-85 ℃ and then physically mixing the mixture with the first effective component at 20-30 ℃.
4. Use of the composition having an oil control and moisturizing effect according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in a cleansing product.
5. The use according to claim 4, wherein the composition with oil control and moisturizing effects is contained in an amount of 0.15-2% by mass in the cleansing product.
6. An oil-control and moisturizing facial cleanser, which is characterized by comprising, in mass percent, 0.15-2% of the oil-control and moisturizing composition of any one of claims 1-3, 10-20% of a surfactant, 0.2-0.5% of an antioxidant, 0.5-5% of a humectant and water.
7. The oil-and-moisturized cleansing foam according to claim 6, wherein said surfactant comprises an amino acid surfactant, a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant.
8. The oil-and-moisturized cleansing foam according to claim 7, wherein said amino acid surfactant comprises disodium cocoyl glutamate and/or sodium cocoyl amino propionate.
9. The oil-and-moisturized cleansing foam according to claim 6, further comprising any one or a combination of at least two of a skin conditioning agent, a pH adjusting agent, and a solubilizing agent.
10. A method of preparing an oil-controlled moisturizing cleansing foam according to any one of claims 6 to 9, comprising:
(1) Mixing water with a surfactant to obtain a first mixture;
(2) Mixing the first mixture with antioxidant, and mixing with composition with oil control and moisturizing effects and humectant.
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WO2024027930A1 (en) * | 2022-08-05 | 2024-02-08 | Symrise Ag | Compositions comprising an antimicrobial boosting agent |
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