CN118284403A - Water-in-oil type cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides a water-in-oil type cosmetic which is excellent in usability and stability. The first water-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention comprises: (A) a hydrophilic polymer compound having a sol-gel conversion ability such as agar, (B) xyloglucan such as acid bean paste, (C) water, and (D) an oil component. In addition, the second water-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention comprises: (F) A water-soluble polymer compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid and succinoglycan, (B) xyloglucan, (C) water, and (D) an oil component.

Description

Water-in-oil cosmetics

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a water-in-oil cosmetic, and more particularly to a water-in-oil cosmetic that achieves excellent covering power, a moist feeling during use, and ease of application during application.

Background technique

In cosmetics such as foundation, if covering power is important, oily cosmetics are preferably used, but most of them give a greasy and sticky feeling. In order to improve such a feeling of use, research on powder-containing oil-in-water type cosmetics with powders has also been carried out, but there is still room for improvement from the perspective of covering power. On the other hand, research has also been carried out on water-in-oil type cosmetics with high covering power, but there is still room for improvement from the perspectives of moist feeling, moist feeling when using, or easy extension during use.

In addition, in water-in-oil type cosmetics, the emulsified state may change due to vibration during transportation, etc., and there is also a demand for cosmetics with less such changes and high stability.

Prior art literature

Patent Literature

Patent Document 1: International Publication No. 2010/087354

Summary of the invention

An object of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil type cosmetic which is excellent in spreading ease, has little powdery feeling during use, and has high covering power.

According to the present invention, the following inventions are provided.

[1] A water-in-oil cosmetic comprising:

(A) a hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel conversion ability,

(B) Xyloglucan,

(C) Water, and

(D) Oil content.

[2] The cosmetic according to [1], wherein the component (A) is selected from the group consisting of agar, carrageenan and gellan gum.

[3] The cosmetic according to [1] or [2], wherein the component (B) is tamarind gum.

[4] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the content of component (A) is 0.01 to 7% by mass and the content of component (B) is 0.01 to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

[5] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the ratio of the content of component (A) to the content of component (B) based on the total mass of the cosmetic is 50:1 to 1:50.

[6] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [5], further comprising (E) powder.

[7] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [6], further comprising (F) a water-soluble polymer compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid, and succinoglycan.

[8] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [7], further comprising (G) an organically modified clay mineral.

[9] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [8], wherein the components (A) and (B) are contained in an aqueous phase.

[10] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [9], which has a viscosity at 30°C of 1,000 to 50,000 Pa·s.

[11] A water-in-oil cosmetic comprising:

(F) a water-soluble polymer compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid and succinoglycan,

(B) Xyloglucan,

(C) Water, and

(D) Oil content.

[12] The cosmetic according to [12], wherein the component (B) is tamarind gum.

[13] The cosmetic according to [11] or [12], wherein the content of the component (F) is 0.01 to 7% by mass and the content of the component (B) is 0.01 to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

[14] The cosmetic according to any one of [11] to [13], wherein the ratio of the content of component (F) to the content of component (B) based on the total mass of the cosmetic is 50:1 to 1:50.

[15] The cosmetic according to any one of [11] to [14], further comprising (E) powder.

[16] The cosmetic according to any one of [11] to [15], further comprising (G) an organically modified clay mineral.

[17] The cosmetic according to any one of [11] to [16], wherein the components (A) and (B) are contained in an aqueous phase.

[18] The cosmetic according to any one of [11] to [17], which has a viscosity at 30°C of 1,000 to 50,000 Pa·s.

According to the present invention, a cosmetic suitable for a liquid foundation having excellent moist feeling and less powdery feeling when used can be provided. The cosmetic can achieve high hiding power and further has high stability, and the emulsified state is not easily changed even when vibration is applied.

Detailed ways

[First Cosmetics]

The first water-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as the first cosmetic) comprises: (A) a hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel conversion ability, (B) xyloglucan, (C) water, and (D) oil. The components contained in the cosmetic of the present invention are described below.

[Hydrophilic polymer compounds with sol-gel conversion ability]

The first cosmetic of the present invention is a combination of specific hydrophilic polymer compounds, one of which is a hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel conversion ability (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as component (A)).

A hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel conversion ability refers to a compound that reversibly forms a hydrophilic gel when a temperature change or other stimulus is applied to the aqueous solution (sol). Such compounds are widely used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc., and various compounds are known. As hydrophilic polymers having sol-gel conversion ability, for example, agar, carrageenan, gellan gum, etc. are known. Agar, carrageenan, and gellan gum, after being dissolved by heating, are cooled and solidified to form a gel, and are preferably used as component (A) in that they are not easily affected by ions, the preparation method is simple, and they can be solidified uniformly. Furthermore, from the aspects of the properties, stability, and feel of use of the gel, they can also be preferably applied to the cosmetics of the present invention.

The component (A) solidifies by cooling, but the gelation point (freezing point) of the aqueous solution is preferably 30°C or higher from the viewpoint of curability at room temperature, and preferably 50°C or lower, preferably 45°C or lower from the viewpoint of solubility during production. Taking all these viewpoints into consideration, the gelation point of the aqueous solution of the component (A) is preferably 30 to 50°C, more preferably 30 to 45°C. The gelation point of the aqueous solution of the component (A) is the temperature at which the surface of the aqueous solution of the component (A) is fixed by collecting about 10 ml of the aqueous gelling agent solution into a medium-sized test tube (diameter 1.5 cm × 16 cm) and inserting a thermometer, and sometimes cooling the test tube while tilting it.

Agar has a basic structure containing a large amount of galactose as a monosaccharide unit, and contains neutral agarose and agaropectin having an ionic group, and a part of the agaropectin contains a sulfate group.

Carrageenan also has a basic structure containing a large amount of galactose as a monosaccharide unit. Carrageenan is classified into three types: kappa-carrageenan, lambda-carrageenan, and iota-carrageenan, but any of them may be used.

Gellan gum is a linear heteropolysaccharide containing a repeating unit of four sugars, namely, two glucoses, one glucuronic acid, and one rhamnose, in the main chain. In addition, the hydroxyl group of the glucose contained in the repeating unit may be substituted with an acetyl group.

Wherein, agar has many commercially available products, can be selected according to purpose.As agar, for example, commercially available products such as Ina agar PS-84, Z-10, AX-30, AX-100, AX-200, T-1, S-5, M-7, CS-110 (Ina Food Industry Co., Ltd. system) can be used.

In the first cosmetic of the present invention, the content of the component (A) is preferably 0.01 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0.03 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

[Xyloglucan]

The first cosmetic of the present invention contains xyloglucan (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (B)) as a hydrophilic polymer compound combined with the above-mentioned component (A). The basic structure of xyloglucan is a structure in which a β-1,4-glucan main chain is connected to a xylose side chain in an α-1,6 bond. Galactose or fucose may be bonded to the side chain.

As a representative example of xyloglucan, tamarind gum from tamarind seeds can be cited. In the present invention, the tamarind gum is preferably used. Tamarind gum is a xyloglucan from natural products, but has few impurities, and a stable product can be obtained when it is used. Tamarind gum is produced by crushing, separating, and refining tamarind seeds.

In the first cosmetic of the present invention, the content of the component (B) is preferably 0.01 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0.03 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

In addition, in the first cosmetic of the present invention, the effect exhibited varies depending on the mixing ratio of component (A) to component (B). In order to strongly exhibit the effect of the present invention, the ratio of the content of component (A) to the content of component (B) is preferably 50:1 to 1:50, and more preferably 20:1 to 1:20.

[water]

The first water-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase and an oil phase. In addition, as a component of the aqueous phase, water (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (C)) is included. As water, water generally used in cosmetics can be used, for example, purified water, ion exchange water, tap water, etc. can be used.

In the first cosmetic of the present invention, water forms an aqueous phase, but the above-mentioned components (A) and (B) are highly water-soluble and therefore are usually preferably present in the cosmetic in a form dissolved in the aqueous phase.

[Oil content]

As the oil component of the first cosmetic of the present invention (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as component (D)), any polar oil or non-polar oil can be used as long as it is not mixed with water and is in a liquid state as a whole during production, and can be selected from a wide range of oil components that are generally used in cosmetics. For example, any liquid oil, solid oil, wax, hydrocarbon oil, higher fatty acid, higher alcohol, synthetic ester oil, silicone oil, etc. can be used.

Examples of the liquid oil include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, camellia oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, ginkgo oil, rice bran oil, paulownia oil, tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerol, tricaprylin, triisopalmitin, and the like.

Examples of the solid fats and oils include cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse fat, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, sheep tallow, hydrogenated beef tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, wood wax kernel oil, hydrogenated oil, neatsfoot oil, sumac wax, and hydrogenated castor oil.

Examples of waxes include beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, insect wax, spermaceti wax, montan wax, bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, acetylated lanolin, lanolin oil, sugarcane wax, isopropyl lanolin acid, hexyl laurate, hydrogenated lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate rayon, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin acid polyethylene glycol ester, POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether, and the like.

Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalene, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, vaseline, and microcrystalline wax.

Examples of the higher fatty acid include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid (behenic acid), 12-hydroxystearic acid, undecylenic acid, and tall acid.

Examples of the higher alcohol include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol.

Examples of the synthetic ester oil include isopropyl myristate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyl decyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, acetylated lanolin, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesterol 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, and neopentyl glycol dicaprate.

Examples of the silicone oil include chain silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; and cyclic silicone oils such as dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and tetramethyltetrahydrogenpolysiloxane.

In the first cosmetic of the present invention, the content of the component (D) is preferably 10 to 70% by mass, more preferably 20 to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

[Other ingredients]

The first cosmetic of the present invention may include any component other than the above-mentioned components. As one of such components, powder (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (E)) may be cited. Powder may be arbitrarily selected from powders commonly used in cosmetics, but the cosmetic of the present invention contains more oil, so it is preferred to include hydrophobic powder. By including hydrophobic powder, the effect of improved water resistance can also be obtained. Hydrophobic powder not only includes powders in which the powder itself is hydrophobic, but also includes hydrophobic treated powders in which the surface of the powder is hydrophobized even if it is a hydrophilic powder.

Specific examples of hydrophobic powders include polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, copolymer resin powder of styrene and acrylic acid, benzoguanamine resin powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, organic powders such as cellulose powder, and silicone powders such as trimethylsilsesquioxane powder.

Examples of the powder component of the hydrophobicized powder include talc, kaolin, mica, sericite, muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, red mica, biotite, lepidolite, vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silicon dioxide, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluoroapatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, metal soap (zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, aluminum stearate, etc.), boron nitride and other inorganic powders; and inorganic white pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. ；Inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (iron red), iron titanate; Inorganic brown pigments such as γ-iron oxide; Inorganic yellow pigments such as iron oxide yellow and loess; Inorganic black pigments such as iron oxide black, carbon black, and low-priced titanium dioxide; Inorganic purple pigments such as mango purple and cobalt violet; Inorganic green pigments such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, and cobalt titanate; Inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine and Prussian blue; Pearlescent pigments such as titanium dioxide coated mica, titanium dioxide coated bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide coated talc, colored titanium dioxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, and fish scale foil; Metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder and copper powder, etc. In the present invention, powders to which these powder components have been hydrophobized are used. These hydrophobic powders can use one, or two or more.

In the first cosmetic of the present invention, the content of the component (E) when blended is preferably 0.1 to 30% by mass, more preferably 1 to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

In addition, the first cosmetic of the present invention preferably further comprises xanthan gum. Xanthan gum is a water-soluble polymer compound, and its repeating unit consists of two glucoses as the main chain and two mannoses and one glucuronic acid as the side chain.

Furthermore, even if locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid or succinoglycan is used instead of xanthan gum, the same effect can be obtained. Hereinafter, these water-soluble polymer compounds may be collectively referred to as (F) component.

The combination of component (B) and component (F) tends to improve the stability of the cosmetic. It should be noted that this tendency is also confirmed even in the absence of component (A). In addition, there is a tendency to obtain an effect of improving the usability such as lightness of elongation or moisturizing feeling (moist feeling).

In the first cosmetic of the present invention, the content of the component (F) is preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass, more preferably 0.02 to 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

In addition, the first cosmetic of the present invention preferably further comprises an organically modified clay mineral (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (G)). The organically modified clay mineral is, for example, a colloidal hydrous aluminum silicate having a three-layer structure, and an example of a clay mineral represented by the following general formula (1) modified with a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant can be mentioned.

(XY) _2-3 (Si，Al) ₄ O ₁₀ (OH) ₂ Z _1/3 ·nH ₂ O (1)

(In formula (1), X = Al, Fe(III), Mn(III) or Cr(III), Y = Mg, Fe(II), Ni, Zn or Li, Z = K, Na or Ca)

Specifically, it is obtained by treating natural or synthetic (in this case, the (OH) group in the formula is substituted by fluorine) montmorillonite group (Veegum (trade name, manufactured by Banda-build Co., Ltd.), Kunipia (trade name, manufactured by KUNIMINE Industries, Ltd.), Laponite (trade name, manufactured by BYK Japan KK.), etc.) and synthetic mica known by the name of sodium silicate mica, sodium or lithium ribbon mica (for example, Dimonite (trade name, manufactured by TOPYINDUSTRIES, LIMITED) and other clay minerals with a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant.

In addition, the first cosmetic of the present invention may also contain other ingredients other than the above, for example, fragrances, water-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, powders, moisturizers, lipophilic thickeners, lower alcohols (with a carbon number of less than 6), antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, whitening agents, various extracts, activators, blood circulation promoters, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-inflammatory agents, oil-soluble film-forming agents, water-soluble film-forming agents, and amino acids or peptides.

The first cosmetic of the present invention can be in various formulation forms, preferably used in liquid foundation, etc., and the viscosity is preferably 1000 to 50000 mPa·s, more preferably 2500 to 20000 mPa·s, and further preferably 2800 to 10000 mPa·s. By setting the viscosity to such a range, it is easy to spread when applied, and an excellent feeling of use can be obtained.

The first cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by any method. The following various methods can be used: a method of mixing the components and stirring and mixing; a method of mixing water-soluble components to form a water phase component, mixing the water phase component with an oil phase component, and then dispersing the water phase component. In addition, since the cosmetic of the present invention contains the component (A) having sol-gel conversion ability, the gel containing the component (A) can also be crushed and mixed.

The form of the first cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be, for example, a makeup base, pressed powder, white powder, blush, lipstick, mascara, eye shadow, eyeliner, etc. In particular, as a liquid cosmetic, a form that can be directly applied to the skin is preferred.

[Second cosmetics]

As described above, the second cosmetic in which component (A) is replaced by component (F) has excellent stability and usability compared to the first cosmetic of the present invention. Specifically, the cosmetic comprises: (F) a water-soluble polymer compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin alginic acid and succinoglycan, (B) xyloglucan, (C) water, and (D) oil. The second cosmetic does not need to contain component (A).

In the second cosmetic of the present invention, the content of the component (F) when blended is preferably 0.01 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0.03 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

In the second cosmetic, components (B) to (E) and (G) and other components may contain the same materials as in the first cosmetic at the same content ratio. Furthermore, the formulation form and production method of the second cosmetic may be selected from the same cosmetics as those of the first cosmetic.

Example

The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. It should be noted that, unless otherwise specified, the content rate represents mass % relative to the total mass of the cosmetic.

[Examples 1 to 13, Comparative Examples 1 to 5]

Water-in-oil type solid cosmetics having the compositions shown in Table 1 below were prepared and evaluated for the following items. The results are also shown in Table 1.

Usability: Whether there is a powdery feel

A: Almost no powdery feeling

B: Not easy to feel powdery

C: Slightly less likely to feel powdery

D: Slightly powdery

E: Feeling pink

Usability: Ease of expansion

A: Easy to stretch.

B: Slightly stretchable.

C: Slightly stretchable.

D: Slightly difficult to stretch.

E: Difficult to extend.

Usability: Moist feeling after application

A: Feeling moist

B: Feel slightly moist

C: Slightly moist feeling

D: Hard to feel moist

E: No sense of moisture at all

Viscosity

The cosmetics at 30° C. were used as samples, and the viscosity was measured using a BL viscometer, No. 3, at a rotation speed of 12 rpm.

Emulsion stability

The cosmetics were sealed in a container with a lid, and the state of the cosmetics when a certain vibration was applied in the up and down direction to give an impact was observed.

A: Even if impact is applied, the emulsified particles do not aggregate and have good stability.

B: When impact is applied, aggregation of some emulsified particles can be confirmed.

C: When the impact is applied, the emulsified particles aggregate and the emulsified particles are confirmed to be enlarged.

D: When impact is applied, aggregation of emulsified particles is observed, and the frequency of enlarged emulsified particles is high.

E: Water separation occurs even without applying impact, and stability is poor.

[Table 1-1]

Table 1

[Table 1-2]

Table 1 (continued)

*1 Ina Agar CS-110 (Ina Agar Foods Co., Ltd.)

*2 Ina Agar PS-84 (Ina Agar Foods Co., Ltd.)

*3NOMCORT ZZ (Nissin Essential Oil Co., Ltd.)

*4K-OB(CP Kelco Company)

The cosmetics of Example 1 are superior in all aspects of usability and emulsification stability compared to the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 which do not contain the components (A) and (B). Furthermore, even if either the component (A) or the component (B) is missing, the effects of the present invention cannot be obtained. Furthermore, even if the component (B) is replaced with another water-soluble polymer compound, the effects of the present invention cannot be obtained (Comparative Examples 2 to 4).

In addition, when the powder component is increased, there is a tendency for the usability to deteriorate (Comparative Example 7), but the cosmetic of the present invention (Example 7) has significantly improved usability.

[Examples 14 to 21, Comparative Examples 6 to 9]

Water-in-oil type solid cosmetics having the compositions shown in Table 2 below were prepared and evaluated according to the above criteria.

[Table 2]

Table 2

*5: Mass average molecular weight★

*6: Mass average molecular weight★

It is found that even when the component (A) is not contained, the high-temperature stability is improved by including the component (F).

Claims (18)

1. A water-in-oil cosmetic comprising: (A) a hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel conversion ability, (B) Xyloglucan, (C) Water, and (D) Oil content. 2. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (A) is selected from the group consisting of agar, carrageenan and gellan gum. 3. The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (B) is tamarind gum. 4 . The cosmetic according to claim 1 , wherein the content of the component (A) is 0.01 to 7% by mass and the content of the component (B) is 0.01 to 7% by mass based on the total mass of the cosmetic. 5 . The cosmetic according to claim 1 , wherein the ratio of the content of the component (A) to the content of the component (B) based on the total mass of the cosmetic is 50:1 to 1:50. 6. The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising (E) powder. 7. The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising (F) a water-soluble high molecular compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid and succinoglycan. 8. The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising (G) an organically modified clay mineral. 9 . The cosmetic according to claim 1 , wherein the component (A) and the component (B) are contained in an aqueous phase. 10. The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, which has a viscosity at 30°C of 1,000 to 50,000 Pa·s. 11. A water-in-oil cosmetic comprising: (F) a water-soluble polymer compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid and succinoglycan, (B) Xyloglucan, (C) Water, and (D) Oil content. 12 . The cosmetic according to claim 11 , wherein the component (B) is tamarind gum. 13 . The cosmetic according to claim 11 , wherein the content of the component (F) is 0.01 to 7% by mass and the content of the component (B) is 0.01 to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. 14 . The cosmetic according to claim 11 , wherein the ratio of the content of the component (F) to the content of the component (B) based on the total mass of the cosmetic is 50:1 to 1:50. 15. The cosmetic according to claim 11 or 12, further comprising (E) powder. 16. The cosmetic according to claim 11 or 12, further comprising (G) an organically modified clay mineral. 17. The cosmetic according to claim 11 or 12, wherein the component (A) and the component (B) are contained in an aqueous phase. 18. The cosmetic according to claim 11 or 12, wherein the viscosity of the cosmetic at 30°C is 1000 to 50000 Pa·s.