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CN116710042A - Oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic - Google Patents

Oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic Download PDF

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Publication number
CN116710042A
CN116710042A CN202180079224.4A CN202180079224A CN116710042A CN 116710042 A CN116710042 A CN 116710042A CN 202180079224 A CN202180079224 A CN 202180079224A CN 116710042 A CN116710042 A CN 116710042A
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Prior art keywords
oil
component
total amount
sunscreen cosmetic
water type
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
西田圭太
上野坚登
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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Publication of CN116710042A publication Critical patent/CN116710042A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14Liposomes; Vesicles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide an oil-in-water emulsion type sunscreen cosmetic composition which has excellent vibration stability and water resistance and has high UV protection ability, in an oil-in-water emulsion composition comprising vesicles. The oil-in-water emulsion sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention is characterized by comprising: the cosmetic composition comprises (A) an aqueous component selected from monohydric alcohols and dihydric alcohols, (B) a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, (C) an oil component containing a polar oil, (D) an ultraviolet scattering agent having a hydrophobic surface, and (E) an anionic surfactant, wherein the content of the low-molecular-weight oil component is 1 to 15% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition when the aqueous component (A) is monohydric alcohols alone, 1 to 20% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition when the aqueous component (A) is dihydric alcohols alone, and the total amount of the aqueous component (A) is 1 to 45% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition when the oil component (C) is blended with a low-molecular-weight oil component, and the ratio of the low-molecular-weight oil component to the total amount of the oil components other than the ultraviolet absorber is 50% by mass or less.

Description

Oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic
Technical Field
The present invention relates to an oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic having improved vibration stability and water resistance in the sunscreen cosmetic.
Background
Among the amphiphilic substances, there is a substance in which a spherical closure composed of a bilayer membrane (lamellar liquid crystal) is formed in an aqueous phase, and such a bilayer membrane closure is called a vesicle. Vesicles are used as a base for cosmetics because they can retain water-soluble components in a closed body and oily components in a molecular film, and can be expected to improve the stability of the system.
For example, patent documents 1 and 2 disclose that a cosmetic having no tackiness and good feel in use can be obtained by forming vesicles using a specific polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil derivative as an amphiphilic substance and containing the vesicle as an emulsifier.
Further, as the vesicle-forming amphiphilic substance, silicone-based surfactants can be mentioned. Vesicles formed from silicone surfactants are preferred because they provide compositions that are free of tackiness, have good feel in use, and are easy to prepare.
For example, patent document 3 describes that the stability of vesicles is improved by adding a water-soluble low-molecular surfactant to an aqueous solution containing vesicles formed by mixing an aqueous formulation and a silicone surfactant in advance. Patent document 4 describes that the stability of vesicles is improved by forming vesicles from a silicone surfactant and then adding an anionic surfactant.
However, these vesicles formed from silicone surfactants are mainly used in solubilizing solutions with a small amount of oil to be blended, and are not used in emulsifying compositions. In fact, patent document 4 shows that if the oil content is 0.4 mass% or more, the stability tends to be lowered.
Patent document 5 discloses a technique of dispersing a water-insoluble liquid phase into an external phase by vesicles containing an internal phase. However, emulsification of vesicles is unstable and there is a practical limit, and therefore, the amount of vesicles blended tends to increase, and as is generally known, there are problems such as stickiness due to a surfactant that forms vesicles.
Prior art literature
Patent literature
Patent document 1: international publication No. 2010-064678
Patent document 2: japanese patent application laid-open No. 2011-195509
Patent document 3: japanese patent laid-open No. 2008-02681
Patent document 4: japanese patent application laid-open No. 2012-092084
Patent document 5: japanese patent No. 3137592
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
The purpose of the present invention is to provide an oil-in-water emulsion sunscreen cosmetic which has excellent stability and water resistance and has high UV protection ability.
Solution for solving the problem
The inventors have conducted intensive studies to solve the above problems, and as a result, found that: in the oil-in-water emulsion composition, vesicles formed from a specific silicone surfactant are emulsified by a silicone nanodisk as a precursor in the presence of a specific aqueous component, and the oil component blended in the oil phase is limited to a specific oil component, thereby significantly improving vibration stability and also being excellent in water resistance, and thus the present invention has been completed.
Herein, "nanodisk" means: a lamellar liquid crystal closure having a flat plate shape, wherein vesicles (lamellar liquid crystal spherical closures) formed of an amphiphilic substance are used as precursors, is free from a water-soluble component inside the closure, and has a lipophilic group at an edge portion. The nanodisk exists in the form of vesicles as precursors in the composition containing no oil, and the vesicle structure is changed into the nanodisk by emulsification by adding oil (hereinafter also referred to as "transfer"). The nano-disk of the invention can be obtained by the following modes: the aqueous dispersion of vesicles is obtained by mixing an aqueous component selected from monohydric alcohols and dihydric alcohols with a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone to form vesicles, adding an anionic surfactant and an oil component, and dispersing the mixture while applying a strong stirring force. The nano-disc exists in a state of being adsorbed on an oil-water interface under the emulsification state, which is beneficial to the emulsification stability. In the present specification, the amphiphilic substance forming vesicles is a silicone-based surfactant, and thus the nanodisk of the present invention is also referred to as "silicone nanodisk".
Namely, the present invention provides an oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic comprising:
(A) An aqueous component selected from monohydric alcohols and dihydric alcohols,
(B) Polyoxyalkylene modified silicone,
(C) An oil component comprising a polar oil,
(D) Ultraviolet scattering agent having a hydrophobized surface, and
(E) An anionic surfactant, which is selected from the group consisting of,
when the aqueous component (A) is a combination of a monohydric alcohol and a dihydric alcohol, the total amount of the aqueous component (A) is 1 to 45% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic,
when the low-molecular-weight oil is blended as the oil (C), the proportion of the low-molecular-weight oil is 50% or less by mass relative to the total amount of the oil excluding the ultraviolet absorber.
In the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention, the nano-disk formed of the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone of the above (B) is attached to the oil-water interface.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The cosmetic of the present invention has the above-described constitution, and thus is an oil-in-water emulsion having a high emulsifying power, and therefore, a large amount of ultraviolet protection agent (ultraviolet absorber and ultraviolet scattering agent) can be blended into the oil phase. In addition, vibration stability and water resistance can be improved as compared with conventional emulsification of vesicles. Thereby, a cosmetic more suitable for carrying can be realized. Further, the silicone nanodisk of the present invention has a sufficient emulsifying power, and therefore, it is possible to blend a water-soluble drug such as a salt-type whitening agent, which tends to be inferior in stability when blended in an external phase aqueous phase.
Detailed Description
The cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by comprising: (A) an aqueous component selected from monohydric alcohols and dihydric alcohols, (B) a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, (C) an oil component containing a polar oil, (D) an ultraviolet scattering agent having a hydrophobized surface, and (E) an anionic surfactant. Hereinafter, the components constituting the cosmetic of the present invention will be described in detail.
(A) aqueous component
The aqueous component (a) (hereinafter, also simply referred to as "component (a)") to be incorporated in the cosmetic of the present invention is 1 or 2 or more selected from monohydric alcohols and dihydric alcohols.
The monohydric alcohol is not particularly limited as long as it is a normal cosmetic user, and examples thereof include ethanol (ethanol), n-propanol, and isopropanol, and ethanol is preferred in the present invention.
The diol is not particularly limited as long as it is a normal one for cosmetic use, and examples thereof include 1, 3-butanediol, dipropylene glycol and the like, and dipropylene glycol is preferred in the present invention.
The surface of the spherical vesicles formed from the surfactant is entirely covered with hydrophilic groups, but the nanodiscs have lipophilic groups at the edge portions, and thus it is difficult to generate the nanodiscs in water. If monohydric and dihydric alcohols are present in water, the surfactant (polyether modified silicone in the present invention) is hydrophilized by the solvent effect, and as a result, transfer from the spherical vesicles to the nanodisk is promoted.
On the other hand, in the case where polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone such as PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane is dissolved in alcohol, triols such as glycerin, polyols such as sorbitol, and the like tend to inhibit the surfactant from being rendered lipophilic and transferred to the nanodisk, and therefore, in the case where tri-or higher alcohols are blended, it is desirable that the total amount of mono-and dihydric alcohols is more than the total amount of tri-or higher polyols.
When the monohydric alcohol is used alone, the amount of the monohydric alcohol to be blended is 1 to 15% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and when the dihydric alcohol is used alone, the amount of the dihydric alcohol to be blended is 1 to 20% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. In the case of using a monohydric alcohol and a dihydric alcohol in combination, the total amount of the monohydric alcohol and the dihydric alcohol is 1 to 45% by mass, preferably 1 to 35% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The concentration of the monohydric alcohol and the dihydric alcohol that more preferably satisfy the following formula (1) is preferably blended as an upper limit.
Monohydric alcohol concentration (%)/15+ in aqueous phase (mass%)/20.ltoreq.1 (1)
When the total amount of the monohydric alcohol and the dihydric alcohol is less than 1% by mass, vesicles are not formed or the structure is disturbed, and emulsification is not possible. When the amount of the monohydric alcohol alone exceeds 15 mass%, when the amount of the dihydric alcohol alone exceeds 20 mass%, and when the ratio of the monohydric alcohol to the dihydric alcohol is out of the range of the above formula (1), even if the total amount thereof exceeds 45 mass% in the range of the above formula (1), the vesicle membrane may become too soft or the vesicles may migrate into micelles, and the stabilizing effect may not be obtained.
(B) polyoxyalkylene-modified organosilicon
The polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone (hereinafter, also simply referred to as "component (B)") to be incorporated in the cosmetic of the present invention is a surfactant having a polysiloxane structure as a hydrophobic group and a polyoxyalkylene structure as a hydrophilic group, and preferably a water-soluble silicone surfactant in which a part of the methyl groups of polydimethylsiloxane is replaced with polyethylene glycol. Specifically, the expression (2) below is used.
In the formula (2), R 1 The alkyl groups may be the same or different and each have hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. At least one of A is a polyoxyalkylene group represented by formula (3):
-(CH 2 )a-(C 2 H 4 O)b-(C 3 H 6 O)c-R 2 (3)
the other A is hydrogen or alkyl of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be the same or different. R in formula (3) 2 Is hydrogen or alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a is 1 to 6, b is 0 to 50, c is an integer of 0 to 50, and b+c is at least 5. M in the formula (2) is an integer of 1 to 200, and n is an integer of 0 to 50.
As the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone of the present invention (B), HLB in the calculation of HLB based on the formula of Griffonia is preferably lower than 10.
In the cosmetic of the present invention, among the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicones, (B) is particularly preferably PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane in which c is 0 and B is 12 in the above formula (3). In addition, PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane further preferably has an HLB of less than 10.
Examples of commercial products of PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane include DOWSIL (TM) ES-5373, SH3772 (TM) M, SH (TM) 3773 (TM) M, SH (TM) (both of which are manufactured by Dow Toray Co., ltd.), and IM-22 (manufactured by Wacker Chemical Corp.).
(B) The amount of the component to be blended is not particularly limited as long as it can form vesicles as precursors of the nanodisk, and is, for example, 0.1 to 5.0% by mass, preferably 0.3 to 3.0% by mass, and more preferably 0.8 to 2.0% by mass, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. If the amount is less than 0.1 mass%, vesicles may not be sufficiently formed, and if it exceeds 5.0 mass%, stability of vesicles may be poor.
The cosmetic of the present invention contains a nanodisk formed from a surfactant of component (B). Vesicles that are precursors to the nanodiscs may be formed by conventional methods. Specifically, the vesicle formed from the component (B) can be formed by mixing and stirring the component (a) and the component (B) as an aqueous component and a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone. In forming vesicles, water and usually an aqueous component used in cosmetics may be blended in an amount within a range not detrimental to vesicle stability, in addition to the aqueous component (a). The average particle diameter of the vesicles is not particularly limited, and is usually about 30nm to 150nm.
Oil (C)
The oil component (C) to be incorporated in the cosmetic of the present invention (hereinafter, may be simply referred to as "component (C)") means: must contain at least an oil component of a polar oil. In the case where the low-molecular-weight oil component is blended with the oil component (C) of the present invention, the proportion of the low-molecular-weight oil component is required to be 50% or less by mass relative to the total amount of the oil components other than the ultraviolet absorber.
The polar oil to be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention includes ester oils, particularly ester oils having an IOB value of about 0.1 to 0.6, and oil-soluble polar ultraviolet absorbers.
Specific examples of the ester oil having an IOB value of about 0.1 to 0.6 include, but are not limited to, diisopropyl sebacate, pentaerythritol tetra (ethylhexanoate), cetyl ethylhexanoate, jojoba oil, phytosterol/octyldodecanol laurylglutamate, triisostearyl essence, glycerol diisostearate, glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate), phytosterol/behenyl dimerlinoleate, phytosterol/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimerlinoleate, isopropyl palmitate, phytosterol macadamia oleate, pentaerythritol tetra (behenic acid/benzoic acid/ethylhexanoate), ethylhexyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, tripropylene glycol diheptadic acid, isodecyl pivalate, and the like.
Specific examples of the oil-soluble polar ultraviolet absorber that can be used in a sunscreen cosmetic include, but are not particularly limited to, organic ultraviolet absorbers such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, benzalmalonate polysiloxane, polysiloxane-15, t-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyl oxyphenoxyphenyl triazine, benzophenone-3, methylenebis-benzotriazole tetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthal-methylenedicarbamate sulfonic acid, and cresol-trazotrisiloxane.
As the polar oil used in the present invention, 1 or 2 or more kinds of polar oils may be used in combination.
In the oil component (C) of the present invention, 1 or 2 or more kinds selected from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils may be blended in addition to the polar oil.
Specific examples of the hydrocarbon oil include isododecane, isohexadecane, hydrogenated polydecene, isoparaffin, liquid paraffin, paraffin wax, squalane, pristane, paraffin wax, ceresin, squalene, vaseline, and microcrystalline wax.
Specific examples of the silicone oil include chain polysiloxanes (e.g., dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenyl polysiloxane, diphenyl polysiloxane, etc.), cyclic polysiloxanes (e.g., octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, etc.), silicone resins forming a three-dimensional network structure, silicone rubbers, various modified polysiloxanes (amino-modified polysiloxanes, polyether-modified polysiloxanes, alkyl-modified polysiloxanes, fluorine-modified polysiloxanes, etc.), acrylic silicones, and the like.
In the cosmetic of the present invention, when the low-molecular-weight oil is blended with the oil, the ratio of the low-molecular-weight oil to the total amount of the oil excluding the ultraviolet absorber must be 50% or less by mass. This is because if the ratio of the low-molecular-weight oil component to the total amount of the oil components other than the ultraviolet absorber exceeds 50%, sufficient vibration stability cannot be obtained. In the cosmetic of the present invention, the low-molecular-weight oil component may not be blended as the oil component, and therefore, the lower limit of the proportion of the low-molecular-weight oil component relative to the total blending amount of the oil components other than the ultraviolet absorber is 0%.
In the present invention, the low molecular oil means: the volatilization rate at 25 ℃ is more than 30% of oil content of weight change rate per hour. Here, the volatilization speed means: the filter paper was placed on a glass dish, and about 0.2g of the sample was dropped, and the value of the change rate of weight per hour was measured under the condition of 25℃according to the gravimetric method. Specific examples of the low molecular oil component include isododecane, low-viscosity volatile silicone (low-viscosity polydimethylsiloxane) having an average polymerization degree of less than 650, and the like. Examples of the commercial products of the low-molecular oil component include Creasil ID CG (manufactured by Shimadzu corporation) and KF-96L-1.5CS (manufactured by Xinyue chemical Co., ltd.). The volatilization speed of Creasil ID CG is more than 90%, and the volatilization speed of KF-96L-1.5CS is about 50%.
The oil component (C) of the present invention may contain at least a polar oil. Thus, the cosmetic of the present invention includes a system comprising only polar oil as an oil component.
The amount of the oil component (C) blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an amount usually used when an ultraviolet scattering agent is blended in an oil phase, and for example, it is 1 to 40% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. (C) When the blending amount of the oil exceeds 40% by mass, stability and usability tend to be lowered. When the ultraviolet absorber is blended, it is preferable that the amount of the ultraviolet absorber is 1% by mass or more, more preferably 3 to 30% by mass or 5 to 25% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic, from the viewpoint of obtaining a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect by the ultraviolet absorber.
Ultraviolet scattering agent (D)
The ultraviolet scattering agent (D) to be incorporated in the cosmetic of the present invention (hereinafter, also simply referred to as "component (D)") is not particularly limited, and may be appropriately selected from among usual users of cosmetics. Specific examples thereof include metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, and tungsten oxide. In the present invention, titanium oxide and zinc oxide are preferable.
The ultraviolet scattering agent (D) used in the present invention may be any one as long as the particle surface is hydrophobic, and may be any one that has not been treated or that has been subjected to a hydrophobization treatment. Various hydrophobizing surface treatments may be used to effect surface hydrophobization. Examples of the method of the hydrophobizing surface treatment include silicone treatment using silicone oil such as methyl hydrogen polysiloxane, dimethyl polysiloxane, and methylphenyl polysiloxane, alkyl silane such as methyl trimethoxysilane, ethyl trimethoxysilane, hexyl trimethoxysilane, and octyl trimethoxysilane, fluoro alkyl silane such as trifluoromethyl ethyl trimethoxysilane, and heptadecafluorodecyl trimethoxysilane; fluorochemical treatments with perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl alcohols, and the like; amino acid treatment using N-acyl glutamic acid, N-acyl aspartic acid, N-acyl lysine, etc.; lecithin treatment; metal soap treatment; fatty acid treatment; alkyl phosphate treatment, and the like.
(D) The amount of the component(s) to be blended is not particularly limited, but is usually 1% by mass or more, for example, 1 to 30% by mass, preferably 1 to 20% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. When the amount is less than 1% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient ultraviolet ray protection effect, and when it exceeds 30% by mass, stability tends to be poor.
The cosmetic of the present invention has excellent emulsion stability, and therefore, it is possible to blend more than 10 mass% of the ultraviolet scattering agent.
The cosmetic of the present invention is an oil-in-water powder composition in which (D) an ultraviolet scattering agent is dispersed in oil droplets as an internal phase.
In the cosmetic of the present invention, the oil phase is preferably 1 to 50% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
Anionic surfactant (E)
The anionic surfactant (E) (hereinafter, also simply referred to as "component (E)") to be incorporated in the cosmetic of the present invention may be any surfactant having an anionic hydrophilic group such as carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphoric acid structure other than the silicone-based surfactant (B) such as polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, as long as it is a surfactant for general cosmetic use. The nanodisk is stabilized by the incorporation of an anionic surfactant.
Among them, anionic surfactants having a Krafft point (Krafft point) higher than room temperature are preferably used. When the Krafft point of the anionic surfactant is lower than room temperature, the silicone surfactant and the anionic surfactant are liable to be mixed and easily interact with each other, and thus the transfer from the vesicle to the nanodisk tends to be inhibited.
The anionic surfactant (E) to be incorporated in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably a sulfonate type anionic surfactant. Examples of the sulfonate type anionic surfactant include sulfosuccinic diester salts, alkylallyl sulfonate salts, alkyl ether sulfonate salts, sulfosuccinic ester salts, acyl methyl taurates, acyl taurates, potassium cetyl phosphate, and potassium cocoyl glutamate. Among them, it is preferably selected from acyl methyl taurates, potassium cetyl phosphate and potassium cocoyl glutamate.
In the present invention, it is particularly preferable to blend N-acyl methyl taurate as the (E) anionic surfactant. Further, among the N-acyl-methyl taurates represented by the following formula (4), N-stearoyl-N-methyl taurate is preferable.
(E) The amount of the component (A) to be blended is preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by mass, still more preferably 0.01 to 0.06% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. When the amount is less than 0.01 mass%, the nanodisk may be insufficiently stable, and when it exceeds 1 mass%, vesicles, which are precursors of the nanodisk, may be solubilized or may interfere with the formation of the nanodisk.
In addition, the ratio of the amount of the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone (B) to the amount of the anionic surfactant (E) is preferably 1:0.01 to 1:0.06.
in general, a whitening agent may be blended into a sunscreen cosmetic, but in general, it is known that stability tends to be poor when a whitening agent as a salt is blended into an aqueous phase as an external phase. The cosmetic of the present invention has an effect of enhancing the emulsifying power by emulsifying the oil component by the nano-disk formed of the specific silicone surfactant and restricting the oil component to be blended, and therefore, the whitening agent having excellent vibration stability even if the salt type whitening agent is blended in the aqueous phase.
The whitening agent (F) (hereinafter, also simply referred to as "component (F)") blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a general one blended in cosmetics. Specific examples thereof include L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, alkoxysalicylic acid and its derivatives, glycyrrhizic acid and its derivatives, nicotinic acid and its derivatives, and the like. The cosmetic of the present invention may be formulated by mixing 1 or a combination of 2 or more of the aforementioned agents.
Examples of the derivative of L-ascorbic acid include L-ascorbyl monoalkyl esters such as L-ascorbyl monostearate, L-ascorbyl monopalmitate and L-ascorbyl monooleate; l-ascorbyl monoesters such as L-ascorbyl monophosphate and L-ascorbyl-2-sulfate; l-ascorbyl dialkyl esters such as L-ascorbyl distearate, L-ascorbyl dipalmitate and L-ascorbyl dioleate; l-ascorbyl trialkyl esters such as L-ascorbyl tristearate, L-ascorbyl tripalmitate and L-ascorbyl trioleate; l-ascorbyl triesters such as L-ascorbyl triphosphate; l-ascorbyl glucosides such as L-ascorbyl 2-glucoside. In the present invention, L-ascorbic acid phosphate, L-ascorbic acid-2-sulfate, L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside and salts thereof are preferably used.
Examples of the derivative of tranexamic acid include a dimer of tranexamic acid (for example, trans-4- (trans-aminomethylcyclohexane carbonyl) aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylate), an ester of tranexamic acid and hydroquinone (for example, 4- (trans-aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylic acid 4' -hydroxyphenyl ester), an ester of tranexamic acid and gentisic acid (for example, 2- (trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexylcarbonyloxy) -5-hydroxybenzoic acid), an amide of tranexamic acid (for example, trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylic acid formamide, trans-4- (p-methoxybenzoyl) aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylic acid, trans-4-guanidinomethyl cyclohexane carboxylic acid, and the like).
The derivative of alkoxysalicylic acid is one in which a hydrogen atom at any of the 3-, 4-or 5-positions of salicylic acid is substituted with an alkoxy group, and the alkoxy group as a substituent is preferably any of methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, isopropoxy, butoxy and isobutoxy, and more preferably methoxy or ethoxy. Specifically, when the compound name is exemplified, 3-methoxysalicylic acid, 3-ethoxysalicylic acid, 4-methoxysalicylic acid, 4-ethoxysalicylic acid, 4-propoxysalicylic acid, 4-isopropoxycalicylic acid, 4-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-methoxysalicylic acid, 5-ethoxysalicylic acid, 5-propoxysalicylic acid, and the like are exemplified. In the present invention, methoxysalicylic acid and its salt (potassium methoxysalicylate) are preferably used.
Examples of the derivative of glycyrrhizic acid include salts of glycyrrhizic acid and esters of glycyrrhizic acid with higher alcohols. In the present invention, glycyrrhizic acid and its salts (dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate, etc.) are preferably used.
The salt of the above-mentioned pharmaceutical agent is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt, potassium salt and calcium salt, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salt and amino acid salt.
Nicotinic acid and its derivatives include nicotinic acid, benzyl nicotinate, nicotinamide, and dl-alpha-tocopherol nicotinate. In the present invention, nicotinamide is preferably used.
(F) The amount of the whitening agent to be blended is 0.05 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 7% by mass, and more preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. When the blending amount is less than 0.05 mass%, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient drug effect, and when it exceeds 10 mass%, stability and usability tend to be deteriorated.
The whitening agent (F) of the present invention may be dissolved or dispersed in an aqueous phase together with other aqueous components.
(G) Dispersing agent
The cosmetic of the present invention may contain 1 or 2 or more (G) dispersants. Specific examples of the dispersant include sorbitan sesquiisostearate, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, and polyhydroxystearic acid. Among these, sorbitan sesquiisostearate and isostearic acid are exemplified as particularly preferred ones, and one or both of these may be blended.
(G) The dispersant is a component selectively blended in the cosmetic of the present invention, and therefore, it is not necessarily blended, but in the case of blending, it is preferable that the blending is carried out to such an extent that the effect of the blending is confirmed and the blending amount is excessive so that the disadvantages such as the sense of use are not confirmed. The preferable blending amount of the (G) dispersant in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably about 0.01 to 1% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
The water to be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention may be ion-exchanged water, purified water, tap water, natural water, or the like, as required. The amount to be blended is the balance (mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic) of the sum of the essential components and other optional blending components of the present invention. Generally, it is suitably about 30 to 70% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
In addition to the above-mentioned components, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may be appropriately blended with other optional additives used in skin external preparations such as usual cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, for example, oils, waxes, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, oil phase thickeners, surfactants, water-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, pigments, chelating agents, lower alcohols, polyols, pH adjusters, antioxidants, powder components, perfumes, and the like, as required, within a range that does not impair the object or effect of the present invention. The examples are not limited thereto.
The vesicle as a precursor of the nanodisk of the present invention can be produced by sufficiently mixing (B) the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone with (a) the aqueous component, and then dropwise adding the mixture to an aqueous phase containing the aqueous component other than (a) while stirring. The mixed state of the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone (B) and the aqueous component (a) may be obtained by, for example, mixing at room temperature to 90 ℃ for 1 to 30 minutes, as long as the mixed liquid is transparent and in a single-phase state. By this method, vesicle particles having an average particle diameter of 30 to 150nm as measured by a dynamic light scattering method can be obtained.
The vesicle of the present invention can be produced by a conventional method in such a manner that the form of the oily component is maintained inside the molecular membrane of the vesicle. Specifically, in the step of mixing (B) the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone and (a) the aqueous component, the vesicles of the present invention can be produced by adding and mixing an oil-soluble component such as a perfume, and the like, thereby producing vesicles in which the oil-soluble component is held in the molecular film of the vesicles.
The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is obtained by adding an anionic surfactant and an oil component to an aqueous phase containing vesicles, and dispersing the mixture while applying a strong stirring force, thereby emulsifying the mixture with a nanodisk transferred from the vesicles. The cosmetic of the present invention is stabilized by a three-phase structure of water phase-nanodisk phase-oil phase, in which nanodisk (phase) is attached to oil phase (oil droplet).
Therefore, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is characterized in that the nanodisk formed of the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone is attached (locally present) to the oil-water interface, that is, around the oil droplets formed of the oil phase. The long diameter of the nano-disc is 20 nm-1000 nm.
The three-phase structure of the water phase-nanodisk phase-oil phase in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can be formed by a conventional method. That is, while stirring, polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone is added dropwise to an aqueous component to form vesicle particles, to obtain a vesicle aqueous dispersion, and an oily component which is separately mixed and dissolved with an anionic surfactant is added to the vesicle aqueous dispersion, and when dispersion is performed with a strong stirring force, the vesicles are transferred to a nanodisk to form a three-phase structure of aqueous phase-nanodisk phase-oil phase. The emulsion dispersion of oil droplets formed from an oily component in an aqueous phase and the local presence of a nanodisk on the surface of oil droplet particles are excellent in emulsion stability and also excellent in feeling of use (moist feeling, no sticky feeling). The stirring device used for stirring is not particularly limited, and for example, a homomixer, a disperser, or the like may be used.
In the present invention, the vesicle particles formed in the aqueous phase can be sufficiently formed into fine particles by applying high shear to the above-mentioned homomixer or the like, and uniformly dispersed in the aqueous phase. The degree of high shear is not particularly limited, and is usually set to about 5 minutes under the conditions of 7000 to 12000 rpm using a homomixer.
The cosmetic of the present invention is obtained by forming vesicle particles in an aqueous phase, adding an anionic surfactant to the vesicle dispersion liquid, and then adding an oily component to emulsify.
Accordingly, the method for producing an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention comprises the steps of: a vesicle formation step of mixing (A) the aqueous component and (B) the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone to form vesicles; a step of adding an anionic surfactant to the vesicle dispersion liquid obtained in the vesicle formation step to obtain a mixed liquid; and an emulsifying step of emulsifying the separately mixed and dissolved oily components in the mixed solution obtained in the above step while applying stirring and shearing force.
In the vesicle formation step, the (a) aqueous component and the (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone are dissolved in advance, and the dissolved product is mixed with the remaining aqueous phase component, whereby a vesicle dispersion liquid in which vesicles are dispersed in the aqueous phase can be obtained, or the (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone is mixed and stirred in the aqueous phase containing the (a) aqueous component and the aqueous component other than the (a) component, whereby a vesicle dispersion liquid in which vesicles are dispersed in the aqueous phase can also be obtained.
The cosmetic of the present invention has a moist feel in use, which is characteristic of an oil-in-water emulsion, and exhibits an excellent UV-protective effect. The nanodisk of the present invention can provide a refreshing feeling of use even though the emulsion can contain a large amount of oil which cannot be blended with a normal solubilizing agent.
The cosmetic of the present invention is suitable for use in various forms such as cream, emulsion, liquid, etc. The product may be in the form of a skin care cosmetic having a sunscreen effect, or may be a make-up cosmetic such as a separator or foundation having a sunscreen effect.
Examples
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. The amount of the component is expressed as mass% of the component to be blended unless otherwise specified. Before the specific description, the evaluation method adopted will be described in each example.
1. Vibration stability
30ml of the prepared sample was placed in a resin tube, and vibration was applied for 30 minutes under a condition of 10Hz or more, and emulsion separation and aggregation state of powder of the sample after standing were visually observed. The evaluation was performed based on the following criteria.
A: no emulsion break, powder aggregation was seen.
B: emulsion break, aggregation of powder is not too much visible.
C: emulsion break, aggregation of the powder was seen.
D: emulsion break, aggregation of the powder was evident.
2. Water resistance
The water resistance is measured by measuring the ultraviolet protection ability of the ultraviolet protection agent (ultraviolet absorber and ultraviolet scattering agent) blended in the cosmetic before and after the water bath and calculating the ratio of the ultraviolet protection ability remaining after the water bath (the remaining ratio of absorbance), thereby measuring the strength of the water resistance. Specifically, the concentration of 2mg/cm in the measurement plate (S plate) (V-groove PMMA plate of 5X 5cm, SPFMASTER-PA 01) was measured 2 The amounts of the cosmetics (samples) of each example were added dropwise, and the resulting film was applied with a finger for 60 seconds, and the absorbance of the film formed after drying for 15 minutes was measured by a U-3500 type self-recording spectrophotometer manufactured by Hitachi, inc. The absorbance (Abs) was calculated by using glycerol without ultraviolet absorption as a control.
Abs=-log(T/To)
T: transmittance of sample, to: transmittance of glycerin
The measured plate was immersed in water having a hardness of 50 to 500, and stirred in the water (300 rpm by 3-1 motor) for 30 minutes. Then, the mixture was dried for about 15 to 30 minutes until the water droplets on the surface disappeared, and absorbance was measured again to calculate the Abs remaining rate (formula below) from the Abs accumulation values before and after the water bath.
Abs residual ratio (%) = (Abs cumulative value after water bath)/(Abs cumulative value before water bath) ×100
Based on the calculated Abs residual ratio, the following criteria are used.
A: more than 80% of the residue is remained.
B: more than 60% and less than 80% remain.
C: the residue was less than 60%.
Examples 1 to 16 and comparative examples 1 to 7
Sunscreen cosmetics having compositions shown in tables 1 and 2 were prepared. Specifically, ethanol and an amphiphilic substance forming vesicles (polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil) are mixed and stirred, then an anionic surfactant and other aqueous components are mixed in the mixed solution to obtain an aqueous phase solution, and an oil phase solution obtained by separately mixing an oily component and a powder component is mixed in the aqueous phase solution while stirring, thereby obtaining an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic. The prepared samples were evaluated for vibration stability and water resistance according to the evaluation methods described above. The results are shown in the table.
TABLE 1
*1: KF-96L-1.5CS (made by Xinyue chemical Co., ltd.) was volatilized at about 50%
*2: KF-96L-6T (made by Xinyue chemical Co., ltd.) has a volatilization rate of 10% or less
*3: KF-96A-20CS (made by Xinyue chemical Co., ltd.) has a volatilization rate of 10% or less
In table 1, cosmetics prepared by changing vesicle-forming amphiphiles, (E) anionic surfactants, and (C) oil components are shown.
The cosmetics of comparative examples 1 and 2, which used polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil as the vesicle-forming amphiphilic substance and did not contain (E) an anionic surfactant, were inferior in water resistance and sometimes insufficient in vibration stability. In addition, even in the case of using the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone of (B) of the present invention, the vibration stability and water resistance of the cosmetic of comparative example 3 containing no (E) anionic surfactant were poor.
The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics of example 1 and example 2 of the present invention are excellent in both vibration stability and water resistance. In the cosmetic of comparative example 4 in which polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil was used as an amphiphilic substance instead of the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone of the present invention (B), vibration stability was excellent but water resistance was poor.
In the cosmetics of examples 3 and 4 in which potassium cetyl phosphate and potassium cocoyl glutamate were used as the (E) anionic surfactant of the present invention, sufficient vibration stability and water resistance were obtained.
The cosmetics of examples 1 to 7 and 11, which contained polar oil (diisopropyl sebacate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, ultraviolet absorber) as an oil component, and the cosmetics of examples 8 to 10, which contained silicone oil or hydrocarbon oil as an oil component in addition to the polar oil component, all had excellent vibration stability and water resistance. As shown in example 7, it was confirmed that excellent vibration stability and water resistance can be obtained by blending a polar oil even without an ultraviolet absorber.
TABLE 2
*1: KF-96L-1.5CS (made by Xinyue chemical Co., ltd.) was volatilized at about 50%
*2: KF-96L-6T (made by Xinyue chemical Co., ltd.) has a volatilization rate of 10% or less
*3: KF-96A-20CS (made by Xinyue chemical Co., ltd.) has a volatilization rate of 10% or less
Table 2 shows cosmetics prepared by changing the ratio of low-molecular oil components to the total amount of oil components other than the ultraviolet absorber.
In the cosmetics containing isododecane having a volatilization rate of 90% or more or polydimethylsiloxane having a volatilization rate of about 50% as the low-molecular-weight oil component, the vibration stability was significantly reduced in the cosmetics of comparative examples 5, 6 and 7 in which the ratio of these low-molecular-weight oil components to the total amount of the oil components other than the ultraviolet absorber was more than 50%.
On the other hand, the cosmetics (examples 12, 14, and 15) having a ratio of the low-molecular oil component to the total amount of the oil components other than the ultraviolet absorber of 50% and the cosmetics (examples 13 and 16) having a ratio of 25% each had sufficient vibration stability.
(formulation example)
The formulation examples of the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention are shown below. The invention is not limited by these formulation examples and must be specified by the claims. The blending amount is expressed as mass% relative to the total amount of the product.
Formulation example 1 Sun-screening and beautifying liquid
Formulation example 2 Sun-screening and beautifying liquid
Formulation example 3 foundation
Formulation example 4 foundation
Formulation example 5 foundation
Formulation example 6 sunscreen cream
Formulation example 7 sunscreen cream

Claims (10)

1. An oil-in-water sunscreen cosmetic comprising:
(A) An aqueous component selected from monohydric alcohols and dihydric alcohols,
(B) Polyoxyalkylene modified silicone,
(C) An oil component comprising a polar oil,
(D) Ultraviolet scattering agent having a hydrophobized surface, and
(E) An anionic surfactant, which is selected from the group consisting of,
when the aqueous component (A) is a combination of a monohydric alcohol and a dihydric alcohol, the total amount of the aqueous component (A) is 1 to 45% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic,
when the low-molecular-weight oil is blended as the oil (C), the proportion of the low-molecular-weight oil is 50% or less by mass relative to the total amount of the oil excluding the ultraviolet absorber.
2. The oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the low-molecular oil component has a volatilization rate at 25 ℃ of 30% or more of weight change rate per hour.
3. The oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the low molecular oil is 1 or more selected from the group consisting of isododecane and polydimethylsiloxane having an average degree of polymerization of less than 650.
4. The oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein when an ultraviolet absorber is blended as the polar oil, the blending amount of the ultraviolet absorber is 5 to 25% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
5. The oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein a nano disk formed of the (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone is attached to an oil-water interface.
6. The oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (C) oil further comprises 1 or more selected from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils.
7. The oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the component (B) is PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane.
8. The oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (E) anionic surfactant is N-acyl methyl taurate.
9. The oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising (F) a whitening agent.
10. The oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising (G) a dispersant.
CN202180079224.4A 2020-12-25 2021-08-16 Oil-in-water type sunscreen cosmetic Pending CN116710042A (en)

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