Detailed Description
In order that the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention may be more readily understood, a technical solution of an embodiment of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings in the embodiment of the present invention, and it is apparent that the described embodiment is a part of the embodiment of the present invention, but not all the embodiments. The components of the embodiments of the present invention generally described and illustrated in the figures herein may be arranged and designed in a wide variety of different configurations.
At least one cyclohexane derivative, so to speak, substituted with a cyclohexane branching.
The substitution may be alcohols or ethers such as trimethylol cyclohexanol, 2-methyl-5-cyclohexyl pentanol, 2-propyl-5-cyclohexyl pentanol, perfluorocyclohexyl methanol, methylcyclohexenyl butanol, dipentyloxy cyclohexane, cyclohexanedimethanol, dihexyloxy cyclohexane, cyclohexylglycerol, 2-t-butylcyclohexyloxy butanol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, camphene cyclohexanol and the like.
The substitution may be of carboxylic acids, such as cyclohexanediamine tetraacetic acid,
The substitution may be esters such as 2-t-butylcyclohexanol acetate, butylhydroxycyclohexyl formate, C1-8 alcohol tetrahydroxycyclohexanoate, cyclohexanediol bis-ethylhexanoate, 1, 4-cyclohexanediol bis-ethylhexanoate, cyclohexanediol bis-methylcrotonate, cyclohexylethanol acetate, 2-cyclohexylethanol acetate, cyclohexylethanol butyrate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl phenyl carbamate, cyclohexanedipeptide-24 aminocyclohexane formate, dimethylcyclohexylethoxyisobutanol propionate, and the like.
The substitution may be alkyl groups such as dioctylcyclohexane, diethylhexylcyclohexane, etc., or alkyl groups may be haloalkyl groups such as perfluorobutylcyclohexane, perfluoro-t-butylcyclohexane, perfluoro-dimethylcyclohexane, perfluoro-methylcyclohexane, etc. In the present invention, diethylhexyl cyclohexane is preferred. Can effectively improve the compatibility of grease and hydrocarbon grease.
At least one malate has good biodegradability characteristics, thus being environmentally friendly. The present invention relates to the use of compounds having the structure wherein R1 and R2 are each a C3-C18 alkyl group, preferably r1=r2, for reducing equilibrium and dynamic surface tension in aqueous based compositions comprising organic compounds.
The malate may be prepared by esterification of malic acid with an alcohol. The reaction is expressed as follows, for the purposes of the present invention, all stereoisomers of malic acid are suitable, including L-malic acid, D-malic acid and DL-malic acid.
The dialkyl malates of the invention are prepared with all alcohols or mixtures of alcohols containing the requisite C3-C18 alkyl substituents, preferably alcohols containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably alcohols containing 8 carbon atoms. Suitable alkyl groups should have sufficient carbon atoms to allow the ability of the material to reduce surface tension.
The alkyl groups in the malates of the present invention may be the same or different. Symmetrical malates are preferred because of their ease of synthesis. The alkyl groups may be linear or branched, preferably with terminal branches. The point of attachment to oxygen may be on the middle or terminal carbon, preferably on the terminal carbon. The total number of carbon atoms on R1 and R2 should be greater than or equal to 12, and less than this minimum value would result in too high a polarity of the dialkyl malate. The total number of carbon atoms should be less than or equal to 36, and a larger number can cause the overall skin feel sticky and greasy, making it unusable in many formulations. Examples of suitable alkyl groups are n-hexyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, n-heptyl, 2-methylhexyl, 3-methylhexyl, 4-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 3-ethylpentyl, n-octyl, 2-methylheptyl, 3-methylheptyl, 4-methylheptyl, 5-methylheptyl, 6-methylheptyl, ethylhexyl, lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, isostearyl and the like. Preferred derivatives are those wherein r1=r2 and the total number of alkyl carbons is 12-36. Among these derivatives, derivatives containing 12 to 24 alkyl carbons are preferable, and derivatives containing 12 to 20 alkyl carbons are particularly preferable, and derivatives containing 16 alkyl carbons are most preferable, particularly in the case of r1=r2=ethylhexyl. Furthermore, those alkyl groups containing terminal branches or attached at terminal oxygens are preferred.
At least one benzoate, the term "benzoate" includes esters of benzoic acid of the general formula (I) wherein R represents an aliphatic, aromatic, saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated, straight or branched chain alkyl group having C4-C22 carbon atoms.
In a preferred embodiment R represents an aliphatic alkyl group.
Accordingly, "C12 alkyl benzoate" means a compound according to formula (I) wherein R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 12 carbon atoms. The term "alkyl benzoate having a carbon chain length of 12" is used synonymously with such a compound. These two terms include both individual compounds such as dodecyl benzoate and mixtures of different alkyl benzoates at c=12, such as dodecyl benzoate and 2-ethyl-1-decyl benzoate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, tridecyl trimellitate, and the like.
The subject of the invention is an alkyl benzoate mixture, characterized in that R is a mixture, R being chosen in the range C6-C22, preferably in a total amount of C12-C15 >95%.
None of the alkyl benzoate mixtures known in the prior art have the distribution of the present invention. It has surprisingly been found that the mixtures with the carbon chain distribution according to the invention are not only highly spreadable (spreitend) oil bodies, but also have improved dissolution properties for UV light protection filters relative to the known alkyl benzoates.
The alkyl benzoates are prepared according to methods known to the expert. Alkyl benzoates can be obtained, for example, by reacting benzoic acid with the corresponding alcohol or alcohol mixture in the presence of a catalyst. Such a method is described, for example, in WO 2004/099117.
The alkyl benzoate mixtures of the present invention may also be obtained by using in the reaction an alcohol mixture having the carbon chain distribution of the present invention. The alkyl benzoate mixtures of the present invention can also be obtained by mixing the corresponding individual alkyl benzoates.
The odor of the product obtained by the esterification or transesterification reaction can be improved if desired by deodorization, and likewise, if necessary, can be treated by methods known to the expert to improve its color.
The total amount of C12-C15 fatty alcohols is >95% for the conventional alcohol mixtures suitable for preparing the alkyl benzoate mixtures of the present invention, with the preferred C12-15 alcohol benzoates of the present invention.
At least one alkyl-modified polysiloxane which promotes compatibility between the fatty acid ester and the silicone grease may be used alone or in combination of two or more. The modified alkyl group may be a C2-C45 alkyl group, and among them, ethyl, hexyl, octyl, lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, cyclophenyl, phenylpropyl, phenyl, C4-24 alkyl, C20-24 alkyl, C24-28 alkyl, C26-28 alkyl, C30-45 alkyl, etc. are common. Preferred in the present invention is a polysiloxane containing a silicon atom having a phenyl group bonded to the inside of a polysiloxane chain as a silicon atom constituting the main chain of the polysiloxane. Is a compound denoted by the INCI name "polyphenylmethylsiloxane". Commercially available products include, for example, the trade name'PDM 20”、“PDM 20 "(manufactured by WACKER CHEMICAL Corporation), trade name" DOWSIL TM 556Cosmetic Grade Fluid "(manufactured by Dow co., ltd.) and trade name" NPC-3156 "(manufactured by NeChem co., ltd.) and the like. The content of the permeation system of the present invention is 5.0 to 50.0 mass%, preferably 7.0 to 40.0 mass%, more preferably 10.0 to 30.0 mass% relative to the mass% of the present invention.
Additional conventional cosmetic ingredients:
the composition according to the invention may also comprise any conventional cosmetic ingredient, which may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, neutralising agents, surfactants, filters (solar filters), vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds (self-tanning compounds), anti-wrinkle active ingredients, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients, anti-free radical agents, deodorants, sequestering agents and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, at least one of volatile silicone oil, volatile alkane, water-in-silicone emulsifier, polyol, surfactant, preservative, essence, humectant and active is also included. Physiologically acceptable medium the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say the composition does not have any harmful side effects, in particular does not give the cosmetic user an unacceptable redness, temperature, pain or tingling sensation. In particular, the physiologically acceptable medium may comprise at least one oil.
W/O emulsifier
For the W/O emulsifier, hydrocarbon-based surfactants or silicone surfactants may be used.
According to one embodiment variant, hydrocarbon-based surfactants are preferred.
Examples of hydrocarbon-based surfactants that may be mentioned include polyester polyols such as PEG-30 dimerized hydroxystearate sold by Uniqema under the number Arlacel P135, and polyglyceryl-2 dimerized hydroxystearate sold by Cognis under the number Dehymuls PGPH.
Examples of silicone surfactants which may be mentioned include alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as lauryl dimethicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 5200Formulation Aid, cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold by Goldschmidt under the name Abil EM 90 or a mixture of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate sold by Goldschmidt under the name Abil WE 09. Still others are PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 dimethicone ethyl dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPE-10/1 dimethicone, cyclopentadimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone, and the like.
One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added thereto. The co-emulsifier may advantageously be selected from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters. Polyol alkyl esters which may be mentioned in particular include glycerol esters and/or sorbitan esters (for example polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate sold under the name L a m e f o r m T G I by Cognis, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (for example the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt), sorbitan isostearate (for example the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI), sorbitan isostearate (for example the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI), and mixtures thereof.
The compositions of the present invention are compatible in formulations comprising a mixture of polyols.
Advantageously, the polyol may be preferably selected from polyols of C2-C8, more preferably from polyols of C3-C6. The polyhydric alcohol may be selected from erythritol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 3-propanediol pentanediol, hexanediol, isopentane diol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and diglycerol, ethylhexyl glycerol, octylglycol and mixtures thereof, glycerol and derivatives thereof, polyglycerols (such as glycerol oligomers, such as diglycerol), and polyethylene glycols, glycol ethers (especially containing 3 to 16 carbon atoms, such as monopropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, dipropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers or tripropylene (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, monoethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, diethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers), and mixtures thereof.
In particular, the polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of erythritol, glycerol, glycols, preferably propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, octylene glycol, glycol ethers, preferably monopropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, dipropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, or monoethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, diethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol and polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
In particular embodiments, the polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of erythritol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, octylethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least glycerol. Polyhydric alcohols, preferably C2-C8 polyhydric alcohols, more preferably C3-C6 polyhydric alcohols, preferably for example erythritol, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof, glycerol and derivatives thereof are known as humectants or moisturizers.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise an additional humectant or humectant.
These additional humectants or humectants that may be mentioned in particular include sorbitol; glycol ethers (containing in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as monopropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ether, dipropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ether or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ether, monoethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ether, diethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ether or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ether, urea and derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxyethyl urea (Hydrovance) (2-hydroxyethyl urea) sold by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, fruit acid (AHA), salicylic acid (BHA), sodium picolinate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, alginase and derivatives thereof, chitosan and derivatives thereof, collagen, plankton, cogongrass (IMPERATA CYLINDRA) extract sold by Sedermafrican under the name Moist, acrylic acid homopolymers, such as beta-glucan from NOF, in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mi belle-AG-Biochemistry, passion, oil, a mixture of C-30% by weight of water in a solution of a mixture of C-30% by weight of a water-soluble, such as that of a 3-30% of a 3-C60% by weight aqueous solution of a 3-C60% of a water-soluble glycoside, such as a mixture of a 3-C40% of a water-C60% of a material, a water-containing a mixture of a water-soluble glycoside, such as, in particular, a mixture of a water-30% of a water-soluble material, such as those manufactured by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl, musk rose oil sold by Nestle, spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Atelocollagen) sold by ENGELHARD LYON company under the name MARINE FILLING SPHERES, hyaluronic acid spheres, such as those sold by ENGELHARD LYON company, arginine, argan oil, and mixtures thereof.
As mentioned above, the cosmetically acceptable medium includes, inter alia, water and optionally a cosmetically suitable solvent. Wherein the water may be pure demineralized water or mineral water. Preferred solvents are aliphatic alcohols having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, polyols, such as propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol and polyol ethers, unbranched or branched hydrocarbons, such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons, such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane, and mixtures thereof. In the sense of the present invention, "oil" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and that is completely insoluble in water or soluble in water at a rate of less than 10% by weight relative to the weight of the oil introduced into the water when introduced into the water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight at 25 ℃.
Very particularly preferred solvent is ethanol;
Examples
All percentages in the present invention are by weight and are based on 100% by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.
The weight referred to in the present invention is the weight of the active substance. For substances in the form of dispersions, the invention is described in
The weight referred to is the actual weight of the substance and does not include the weight of the carrier, that is to say the weight of the substance referred to in the present invention in the form of a dispersion = weight of the dispersion x solids content of the dispersion. For solid materials containing water of crystallization, the weight of the material referred to in the present invention is the weight of the removed water of crystallization.
Examples
Raw materials and reagents
Both the examples and the comparative examples according to the invention can be prepared in that the polyurethane B) LATMOISO according to the invention is added with stirring to the oil phase at a stirring speed of 500-600rpm in order to take part in the emulsion addition of the formulation.
The examples or comparative examples in the present invention all have the components listed in the following table
Wherein wt% refers to the weight percent of the solid component in the ingredient based on the total weight of the formulation sample. And the sum of the percentages by weight of the solid components in polyurethane A) and in the amphoteric copolymer B) is kept at 2% by weight.
The skin used in the following experiments was asian skin. All the skins were healthy and undamaged.
Evaluation experiment 1 sensory evaluation
The testing method comprises applying the test product to skin of 6 subjects according to standard dosage and usage by 2 organoleptic experts, scientifically evaluating organoleptic properties of the product, and averaging, wherein the higher the value is, the better the corresponding evaluation dimension is represented
FIGS. 1 and 2 can be obtained
From FIG. 1, it can be seen that the system containing phenyl silicone oil has a reduced sticky feel and a later heavy feel compared to cyclosilicon, but a slower drying rate. In terms of the gradient of use of the single grease, 6840 increases the maintenance of the system with increasing amounts of use, and reduces the immediate sensation of hydration. And as 6840 increases, the heavy feel and push-away properties of the formulation decrease. The 6850 embodiment can be seen that the pushing-away performance of the formulation is improved along with the improvement of the dosage, which is better than that of the blank sample, and the heavy feel of the formulation can be reduced along with the improvement of the dosage. As can be seen from the formulation of the different total amounts used, the higher total amounts (comparative examples 13-16) perform better than the lower groups (comparative examples 17-20).
The group of examples can obtain better comprehensive performance when the total amount of the combined grease is higher (examples 6-10) while the phenyl silicone oil has lower greasy feel, and better comprehensive performance when the combination ratio of the grease is 6850:6840=2.5:1.5.
Evaluation experiment 2 optical test
The test method comprises uniformly coating test product with thickness of 25 μm with quartz glass as base material, and testing regular transmittance, diffuse transmittance and turbidity of the product 10min after coating
The average of the optical properties for the formulation is as follows:
|
Turbidity% |
Regular transmission% |
Diffuse transmission% |
Comparative example 1 |
63.23 |
74.32 |
47.28 |
Comparative example 2 |
94.94 |
45.22 |
42.93 |
Comparative example 3 |
94.58 |
45.32 |
42.86 |
Comparative example 4 |
95.48 |
44.13 |
42.14 |
Comparative example 5 |
94.49 |
45.93 |
43.4 |
Comparative example 6 |
95.55 |
44.31 |
42.34 |
Comparative example 7 |
95.83 |
43.71 |
41.89 |
Comparative example 8 |
93.62 |
47.92 |
44.86 |
Comparative example 9 |
95.68 |
44.91 |
42.97 |
Comparative example 10 |
92.52 |
49.22 |
45.54 |
Comparative example 11 |
93.95 |
46.53 |
43.71 |
Comparative example 12 |
96.9 |
40.12 |
38.88 |
Comparative example 13 |
95.74 |
42.61 |
40.8 |
Comparative example 14 |
96.02 |
41.98 |
40.31 |
Comparative example 15 |
96.53 |
41.1 |
39.68 |
Comparative example 16 |
93.7 |
47.24 |
44.26 |
Comparative example 17 |
92.58 |
49.29 |
45.64 |
Comparative example 18 |
93.39 |
47.86 |
44.7 |
Comparative example 19 |
93.5 |
49.22 |
46.02 |
Comparative example 20 |
94.72 |
45.46 |
43.06 |
Example 1 |
65.74 |
72.59 |
47.23 |
Example 2 |
66.18 |
72.27 |
47.83 |
Example 3 |
68.69 |
71.17 |
48.88 |
Example 4 |
66.94 |
71.57 |
47.91 |
Example 5 |
73.07 |
67.96 |
49.66 |
Example 6 |
65.58 |
72.59 |
47.61 |
Example 7 |
73.44 |
67.14 |
49.31 |
Example 8 |
77.22 |
64.37 |
49.71 |
Example 9 |
71.26 |
68.75 |
48.99 |
Example 10 |
71.36 |
68.27 |
48.72 |
From optical comparison, it can be seen that the examples effectively reduce the turbidity of the formulation and increase the transmittance and diffuse transmittance of the formulation. The retention of the formulation is enhanced in the sense of use.
6850 Obtained from data statistical analysis greatly contributes to the moisture feeling of the formula, and 6840 can remarkably enhance the push-off tendency of the formula and the residual feeling at the rear end of the formula. The skin feel balance of the formula is obviously enhanced by the mutual matching.
It will be evident to those skilled in the art that the invention is not limited to the precise details set forth, and that the invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential characteristics thereof. The described embodiments are therefore to be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, the scope of the invention being indicated by the appended claims rather than by the foregoing description, and any changes which come within the meaning and range of equivalency of the claims are therefore intended to be embraced therein.