CN115506075A - Knitting method and knitted fabric - Google Patents
Knitting method and knitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN115506075A CN115506075A CN202110633785.6A CN202110633785A CN115506075A CN 115506075 A CN115506075 A CN 115506075A CN 202110633785 A CN202110633785 A CN 202110633785A CN 115506075 A CN115506075 A CN 115506075A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/10—Open-work fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B27/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, warp knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
- D04B27/10—Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
- D04B27/24—Thread guide bar assemblies
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
- D10B2331/042—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET] aromatic polyesters, e.g. vectran
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/01—Surface features
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
- D10B2501/043—Footwear
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
本发明提供一种编织方法,应用于双针床机台以编织成编织物,编织方法包含配置步骤及编织步骤。配置步骤将第一地梳单元、第一贾卡单元、第二贾卡单元、第二地梳单元及至少一第三地梳单元由双针床机台的前针床至后针床依序配置于双针床机台。编织步骤包含将第一贾卡单元于前针床及后针床之间进行编织,并将第一贾卡单元连接面层,将第二贾卡单元于前针床及后针床之间进行编织,并将第二贾卡单元连接面层及底层中至少一者。借此,提升编织物的内部结构及外观的多样性。
The invention provides a knitting method, which is applied to a double-needle bed machine to weave knitted fabrics. The knitting method includes a configuration step and a knitting step. The step of configuring the first ground comb unit, the first jacquard unit, the second jacquard unit, the second ground comb unit and at least one third ground comb unit from the front needle bed to the rear needle bed of the double needle bed machine It is configured on a double needle bed machine. The knitting step includes knitting the first jacquard unit between the front needle bed and the rear needle bed, connecting the first jacquard unit to the surface layer, and knitting the second jacquard unit between the front needle bed and the rear needle bed braiding, and attaching a second jacquard unit to at least one of the top layer and the bottom layer. In this way, the diversity of the internal structure and appearance of the braided fabric is improved.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明提供一种编织方法及编织物,尤其是一种应用于双针床机台及贾卡单元的数量为二的编织方法及编织物。The invention provides a knitting method and a knitting fabric, especially a knitting method and knitting fabric with two needle bed machines and two jacquard units.
背景技术Background technique
编织工艺日益成熟,尤其是有关双针床的编织技术已发展多元。与此同时,相关业者也开始发展双针床双贾卡的编织技术,并已开发出双针床双贾卡的相关机台。然而,如何通过编织方法凸显编织产品的优势并解决编织产品的结构缺陷,遂成相关业者努力的目标。The knitting process is becoming more and more mature, especially the knitting technology related to the double needle bed has been diversified. At the same time, relevant industry players have also begun to develop the knitting technology of double-needle beds and double jacquard, and have developed related machines for double-needle beds and double jacquard. However, how to highlight the advantages of the woven product and solve the structural defects of the woven product through the weaving method has become the goal of the related industry.
发明内容Contents of the invention
本发明的一目的为通过第一地梳单元、第一贾卡单元、第二贾卡单元、第二地梳单元及至少一第三地梳单元由双针床机台的前针床至后针床依序配置于双针床机台,以提升编织物的内部结构及外观的多样性。An object of the present invention is to pass through the first ground comb unit, the first jacquard unit, the second jacquard unit, the second ground comb unit and at least one third ground comb unit from the front needle bed to the rear of the double needle bed machine The needle beds are sequentially arranged on the double needle bed machine to enhance the diversity of the internal structure and appearance of the knitted fabric.
本发明的一实施方式提供一种编织方法,应用于双针床机台以编织成编织物,编织方法包含配置步骤及编织步骤。配置步骤将第一地梳单元、第一贾卡单元、第二贾卡单元、第二地梳单元及至少一第三地梳单元由双针床机台的前针床至后针床依序配置于双针床机台。编织步骤包含将第一地梳单元于前针床进行编织,以编织成编织物的面层,将至少一第三地梳单元于后针床进行编织,以编织成编织物的底层,将第一贾卡单元于前针床及后针床之间进行编织,并将第一贾卡单元连接面层,将第二贾卡单元于前针床及后针床之间进行编织,并将第二贾卡单元连接面层及底层中至少一者,以及将第二地梳单元于前针床及后针床之间进行编织,并将第二地梳单元连接面层及底层。One embodiment of the present invention provides a knitting method, which is applied to a double-needle bed machine for knitting knitted fabrics. The knitting method includes a configuration step and a knitting step. The step of configuring the first ground comb unit, the first jacquard unit, the second jacquard unit, the second ground comb unit and at least one third ground comb unit from the front needle bed to the rear needle bed of the double needle bed machine It is configured on a double needle bed machine. The knitting step includes knitting the first ground comb unit on the front needle bed to weave the surface layer of the knitted fabric, knitting at least one third ground comb unit on the rear needle bed to knit the bottom layer of the knitted fabric, and knitting the first ground comb unit on the rear needle bed. A jacquard unit knits between the front needle bed and the rear needle bed, connects the first jacquard unit to the surface layer, knits the second jacquard unit between the front needle bed and the rear needle bed, and connects the second jacquard unit The two jacquard units are connected to at least one of the surface layer and the bottom layer, and the second ground comb unit is used for knitting between the front needle bed and the rear needle bed, and the second ground comb unit is connected to the surface layer and the bottom layer.
依据前述实施方式的编织方法,其中至少一第三地梳单元的数量可为二个,且所述二第三地梳单元的垫纱组织的垫纱数码不同。According to the knitting method of the aforementioned embodiment, the number of at least one third ground comb unit may be two, and the numbers of the lapped yarns of the lapped yarns of the two third ground comb units are different.
依据前述实施方式的编织方法,其中在编织步骤中,第一贾卡单元与前针床的前沉降片的倾斜角可介于0度及70度之间,第二贾卡单元与前沉降片的倾斜角可介于75度及90度之间。According to the knitting method of the aforementioned embodiment, wherein in the knitting step, the inclination angle between the first jacquard unit and the front sinker of the front needle bed may be between 0 degrees and 70 degrees, and the second jacquard unit and the front sinker The inclination angle can be between 75 degrees and 90 degrees.
依据前述实施方式的编织方法,其中在编织步骤中,第二贾卡单元与第二地梳单元的间距可介于3mm及5mm之间,第二地梳单元与至少一第三地梳单元的间距可介于3mm及5mm之间。According to the weaving method of the aforementioned embodiment, wherein in the weaving step, the distance between the second jacquard unit and the second ground comb unit can be between 3mm and 5mm, and the distance between the second ground comb unit and at least one third ground comb unit The pitch can be between 3mm and 5mm.
依据前述实施方式的编织方法,其中在编织步骤中,第一贾卡单元可用以编织成开口线圈,且不编织成闭口线圈。According to the knitting method of the aforementioned embodiment, in the knitting step, the first jacquard unit can be used to knit open loops and not knit closed loops.
依据前述实施方式的编织方法,其中在编织步骤中,当第二贾卡单元连接面层时,第一贾卡单元及第二贾卡单元可用以编织成缇花层,缇花层包含显露于面层的人字纹。According to the weaving method of the aforementioned embodiment, wherein in the weaving step, when the second jacquard unit is connected to the surface layer, the first jacquard unit and the second jacquard unit can be used to weave a jacquard layer, and the jacquard layer includes Herringbone pattern on the top layer.
依据前述实施方式的编织方法,其中在编织步骤中,第二贾卡单元可还用以将第二贾卡单元编织成的线圈的部分被第一地梳单元编织成的线圈及第一贾卡单元编织成的线圈所遮蔽,且第二贾卡单元编织成的线圈的另一部分显露于面层。According to the knitting method of the aforementioned embodiment, wherein in the knitting step, the second jacquard unit can also be used to weave the loops woven by the second jacquard unit into the loops woven by the first ground comb unit and the first jacquard unit. The loops woven by the unit are covered, and another part of the loops woven by the second jacquard unit is exposed on the surface layer.
依据前述实施方式的编织方法,其中在编织步骤中,第一地梳单元、第一贾卡单元及第二贾卡单元可用以编织成编链组织。According to the weaving method of the aforementioned embodiment, in the weaving step, the first ground comb unit, the first jacquard unit and the second jacquard unit can be used to weave into a braided chain structure.
依据前述实施方式的编织方法,其中在编织步骤中,第二贾卡单元可还用以于前针床编织成线圈,并编织成显露于面层的V点花型。According to the knitting method of the aforementioned embodiment, in the knitting step, the second jacquard unit can also be used to knit loops on the front needle bed and knit into a V-point pattern exposed on the surface layer.
依据前述实施方式的编织方法,其中在编织步骤中,当第二贾卡单元连接面层及底层时,第一地梳单元、第一贾卡单元、第二贾卡单元及至少一第三地梳单元可用以编织成中层结构。According to the weaving method of the aforementioned embodiment, wherein in the weaving step, when the second jacquard unit connects the surface layer and the bottom layer, the first ground comb unit, the first jacquard unit, the second jacquard unit and at least one third ground comb unit Comb units can be used to weave into mid-layer structures.
依据前述实施方式的编织方法,其中第一贾卡单元的纱线具有第一颜色,第二贾卡单元的纱线具有第二颜色,且第一颜色及第二颜色可为不同颜色。According to the knitting method of the aforementioned embodiment, the yarns of the first jacquard unit have a first color, the yarns of the second jacquard unit have a second color, and the first color and the second color can be different colors.
依据前述实施方式的编织方法,其中第一地梳单元的纱线的材料、第一贾卡单元的纱线的材料、第二贾卡单元的纱线的材料、第二地梳单元的纱线的材料及至少一第三地梳单元的纱线的材料中至少一者为涤纶、锦纶、阳离子纱、氨纶、热塑性聚酯、热塑性聚氨酯、并纱、包芯纱、包覆纱或功能性纱线。According to the weaving method of the aforementioned embodiment, wherein the material of the yarn of the first ground comb unit, the material of the yarn of the first Jacquard unit, the material of the yarn of the second Jacquard unit, the yarn of the second ground comb unit At least one of the material and the yarn material of at least one third ground comb unit is polyester, nylon, cationic yarn, spandex, thermoplastic polyester, thermoplastic polyurethane, doubling yarn, core-spun yarn, covered yarn or functional yarn Wire.
本发明的另一实施方式提供一种利用前述实施方式的编织方法所制成的编织物,包含面层、底层、缇花层及内层。面层由第一地梳单元编织而成。底层由至少一第三地梳单元编织而成。缇花层由第一贾卡单元及第二贾卡单元编织而成,缇花层连接面层。内层由第二地梳单元编织而成,内层连接面层及底层。Another embodiment of the present invention provides a braided fabric made by the knitting method of the above embodiment, comprising a surface layer, a bottom layer, a jacquard layer and an inner layer. The surface layer is woven by the first ground comb unit. The bottom layer is woven by at least one third ground comb unit. The jacquard layer is woven by the first jacquard unit and the second jacquard unit, and the jacquard layer is connected with the surface layer. The inner layer is woven by the second ground comb unit, and the inner layer is connected with the surface layer and the bottom layer.
附图说明Description of drawings
为让本发明的上述和其他目的、特征、优点与实施例能更明显易懂,所附图的说明如下:In order to make the above and other objects, features, advantages and embodiments of the present invention more comprehensible, the accompanying drawings are described as follows:
图1绘示本发明一实施方式的一实施例的编织方法的流程示意图;FIG. 1 shows a schematic flow diagram of a weaving method in an example of an embodiment of the present invention;
图2绘示依照图1实施例的编织方法的梳栉组织配置图;Fig. 2 depicts the bar structure configuration diagram according to the weaving method of Fig. 1 embodiment;
图3A绘示本发明另一实施方式的一实施例的编织物的剖面示意图;FIG. 3A shows a schematic cross-sectional view of a braided fabric according to an example of another embodiment of the present invention;
图3B绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物的前针床面的部分示意图;FIG. 3B shows a partial schematic view of the front needle bed surface of the knitted fabric according to the embodiment of FIG. 3A;
图4绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物的前针床面的另一部分示意图;FIG. 4 shows another partial schematic view of the front needle bed surface of the knitted fabric according to the embodiment of FIG. 3A;
图5绘示依照图4的中层结构的人字纹的示意图;FIG. 5 shows a schematic diagram of a herringbone pattern according to the middle structure of FIG. 4;
图6绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物的后针床面的部分示意图;FIG. 6 shows a partial schematic view of the rear needle bed surface of the knitted fabric according to the embodiment of FIG. 3A;
图7绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物的后针床面的另一部分示意图;FIG. 7 shows another part of the rear needle bed surface of the knitted fabric according to the embodiment of FIG. 3A;
图8绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物中第一地梳单元的垫纱组织示意图;Fig. 8 shows a schematic diagram of the lapping structure of the first ground comb unit in the braided fabric according to the embodiment of Fig. 3A;
图9A及图9B分别绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物中对应不同偏移信号的第一贾卡单元的垫纱组织示意图;9A and FIG. 9B are respectively schematic diagrams of laying yarns of the first jacquard unit corresponding to different offset signals in the braided fabric according to the embodiment of FIG. 3A;
图10A、图10B、图10C、图10D、图10E及图10F分别绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物中对应不同偏移信号的第二贾卡单元的垫纱组织示意图;Fig. 10A, Fig. 10B, Fig. 10C, Fig. 10D, Fig. 10E and Fig. 10F are respectively schematic diagrams showing the lapping structure of the second jacquard unit corresponding to different offset signals in the braided fabric according to the embodiment of Fig. 3A;
图11绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物中第二地梳单元的垫纱组织示意图;Fig. 11 shows a schematic diagram of the lapping structure of the second ground comb unit in the braided fabric according to the embodiment of Fig. 3A;
图12绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物中第三地梳单元的垫纱组织示意图;以及Fig. 12 shows a schematic diagram of the lapping structure of the third ground comb unit in the braided fabric according to the embodiment of Fig. 3A; and
图13绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物中另一第三地梳单元的垫纱组织示意图。Fig. 13 is a schematic diagram of another third ground comb unit's laying structure in the braided fabric according to the embodiment of Fig. 3A.
具体实施方式detailed description
以下将参照附图说明本发明的复数个实施例。为明确说明起见,许多实务上的细节将在以下叙述中一并说明。然而,应了解到,这些实务上的细节不应用以限制本发明。也就是说,在本发明部分实施例中,这些实务上的细节是非必要的。此外,为简化附图起见,一些现有惯用的结构与元件在附图中将以简单示意的方式绘示;并且重复的元件将可能使用相同的编号表示。Several embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the accompanying drawings. For the sake of clarity, many practical details are included in the following narrative. It should be understood, however, that these practical details should not be used to limit the invention. That is, in some embodiments of the present invention, these practical details are unnecessary. In addition, for the sake of simplifying the drawings, some existing conventional structures and elements will be shown in a simple and schematic way in the drawings; and repeated elements may be denoted by the same numbers.
图1绘示本发明一实施方式的一实施例的编织方法100的流程示意图,图2绘示依照图1实施例的编织方法100的梳栉组织配置图,图3A绘示本发明另一实施方式的一实施例的编织物300的剖面示意图,其中图3A仅用于便于理解编织物300,且编织物300的详细结构及组织请参照本发明的相关内容。请参照图1、图2及图3A,并以本发明另一实施方式的一实施例的编织物300辅助说明本发明一实施方式的一实施例的编织方法100,编织方法100应用于双针床机台以编织成编织物300,编织方法100包含配置步骤110及编织步骤120。配置步骤110将第一地梳单元210、第一贾卡单元220、第二贾卡单元230、第二地梳单元240及至少一第三地梳单元(即第三地梳单元250、260中至少一者)由双针床机台的前针床201至后针床202依序配置于双针床机台。在本实施例中,第一贾卡单元220包含第一子贾卡单元221、222,第二贾卡单元230包含第二子贾卡单元231、232。再者,当描述第一贾卡单元220时,指第一子贾卡单元221、222中各者,当描述第一贾卡单元220的第一子贾卡单元221的纱线223时,也指第一子贾卡单元222的纱线224。当描述第二贾卡单元230时,指第二子贾卡单元231、232中各者,当描述第二贾卡单元230的第二子贾卡单元231的纱线233时,也指第二子贾卡单元232的纱线234。FIG. 1 shows a schematic flow chart of a
图3B绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物300的前针床面301的部分示意图,图4绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物300的前针床面301的另一部分示意图,图5绘示依照图4的中层结构370e的人字纹333的示意图,图6绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物300的后针床面302的部分示意图,图7绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物300的后针床面302的另一部分示意图,其中图3B、图4、图6及图7具体上分别为编织物300所述部分的拍摄影像。请参照图1至图7,编织步骤120包含将第一地梳单元210于前针床201进行编织,以编织成编织物300的面层310,将第三地梳单元250、260中至少一者于后针床202进行编织,以编织成编织物300的底层350,将第一贾卡单元220于前针床201及后针床202之间进行编织,并将第一贾卡单元220连接面层310,将第二贾卡单元230于前针床201及后针床202之间进行编织,并将第二贾卡单元230连接面层310及底层350中至少一者,以及将第二地梳单元240于前针床201及后针床202之间进行编织,并将第二地梳单元240连接面层310及底层350。3B shows a partial schematic diagram of the front
借此,现有技术的双贾卡编织物无中间单丝间隔丝作为支撑,中间会形成镂空层,当裁切的时候布面无贾卡链接的地方会分成两层,而依据本发明的编织方法100所制成的编织物300以第二地梳单元240作为中间单丝间隔丝可有效避免所述问题,且可由源头克服编织物300进一步地制成复杂形状或结构的产品(例如鞋类产品)会遇到的尺寸跑偏及增加工序难度的问题。再者,依据本发明的编织物300不仅改良其内部结构,外观上更研发出具别样风格的双贾卡经编网布,整体上既满足复杂形状或结构的产品要求,也符合市场趋势,进一步地把经编网布的优势继续扩大化。此外,不同于现有技术的编织方法,依据本发明的编织方法100的第一贾卡单元220位于第二把梳栉的位置,用以让第一贾卡单元220在前针床201做网孔和厚平布的同时,让编织物300的前针床面301比现有技术的布面要松一点。进一步地,如只是调整送纱量对于现有技术的编织物的内部结构及外观的改善仍显不足,例如不能够本质地于外观上实现人字纹333结构。Thereby, the double jacquard braid of the prior art has no intermediate monofilament spacers as a support, and a hollow layer will be formed in the middle. When cutting, the place where there is no jacquard link on the cloth surface will be divided into two layers. The
详细而言,请参照图2,在编织步骤120中,第一贾卡单元220与前针床201的前沉降片205的倾斜角a2可介于0度及70度之间(包含0度及70度),第二贾卡单元230与前沉降片205的倾斜角a3可介于75度及90度之间(包含75度及90度)。借此,第一贾卡单元220在第二把梳栉的位置,并对应地具有适当的梳栉角度以及垫纱轨迹。In detail, please refer to FIG. 2, in the
在编织步骤120中,第二贾卡单元230与第二地梳单元240的间距可介于3mm及5mm之间(包含3mm及5mm),第二地梳单元240与第三地梳单元250的间距s3可介于3mm及5mm之间(包含3mm及5mm),第三地梳单元250、260的间距s5可介于3mm及5mm之间(包含3mm及5mm)。借此,有助于作为间隔丝的第二地梳单元240的纱线243在前针床面301及后针床面302更加地隐藏单丝,从而不显露在前针床面301及后针床面302,以致影响布面手感。In the weaving
第一贾卡单元220的纱线223、224具有第一颜色,第二贾卡单元230的纱线233、234具有第二颜色,且第一颜色及第二颜色可为不同颜色。借此,使编织物300的缇花层330于前针床面301获得不同颜色的花纹。The
第一地梳单元210的纱线213的材料、第一贾卡单元220的纱线223、224的材料、第二贾卡单元230的纱线233、234的材料、第二地梳单元240的纱线243的材料及第三地梳单元250、260的纱线253、263的材料中至少一者为涤纶、锦纶、阳离子纱、氨纶、热塑性聚酯(Thermoplastic Polyester Elastomer,TPEE)、热塑性聚氨酯(ThermoplasticPolyurethane,TPU)、并纱、包芯纱、包覆纱或功能性纱线。借此,有利于提升产品应用弹性。具体而言,第一地梳单元210的纱线213可为涤纶并走编链组织,第一贾卡单元220的纱线223、224可为涤纶,第二贾卡单元230的纱线233、234可为阳离子纱并运用消极式送纱,第二地梳单元240的纱线243可为涤纶单丝间隔丝,以增加前针床面301及后针床面302的弹性手感。The material of the
在编织步骤120中,当第二贾卡单元230连接面层310时,第一贾卡单元220及第二贾卡单元230可用以编织成缇花层330,缇花层330包含显露于面层310的人字纹333(例如图5所示)。借此,基于现有技术的双贾卡经编面料上的不足,依据本发明的编织方法100所制成的编织物300具有一种人字纹333的缇花网布效果,且具有三明治编织物300的所有特性,例如手感、弹性以及物性要求,达到实用与外观相互结合的双贾卡经编面料产品。In the weaving
具体而言,第一地梳单元210、第二地梳单元240及第三地梳单元250、260分别具有垫纱组织。第一贾卡单元220及第二贾卡单元230中各者皆具有原始垫纱组织及缇花垫纱组织,第一贾卡单元220及第二贾卡单元230分别依据对应的贾卡控制信息进行偏移。所述原始垫纱组织为第一贾卡单元220及第二贾卡单元230偏移之前的纱线组织,所述缇花垫纱组织为第一贾卡单元220及第二贾卡单元230偏移之后纱线下一步走向及变化的纱线组织。通过控制贾卡控制信息来操控第一贾卡单元220及第二贾卡单元230,借以达到组织花型变化的效果。Specifically, the first
更仔细地说,垫纱组织、原始垫纱组织及缇花垫纱组织分别具有垫纱数码,所述垫纱数码可代表第一地梳单元210、第一贾卡单元220、第二贾卡单元230、第二地梳单元240及第三地梳单元250、260的编织路径。另外,贾卡控制信息具有偏移信号,所述偏移信号以字母H及字母T表示,其中,字母H代表不偏移信号,字母T代表偏移信号。以下将详细说明不同视觉效果的编织物300的编织方法100。To be more specific, the laid yarn weave, the original laid yarn weave and the jacquard laid yarn weave respectively have laid yarn numbers, and the said laid yarn numbers can represent the first
图8绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物300中第一地梳单元210的垫纱组织示意图,图9A及图9B分别绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物300中对应不同偏移信号的第一贾卡单元220的垫纱组织示意图,图10A、图10B、图10C、图10D、图10E及图10F分别绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物300中对应不同偏移信号的第二贾卡单元230的垫纱组织示意图,其中图9A至图10F中各者的左侧绘示原始垫纱组织的示意图,右侧绘示缇花垫纱组织的示意图。图11绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物300中第二地梳单元240的垫纱组织示意图,图12绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物300中第三地梳单元250的垫纱组织示意图,图13绘示依照图3A实施例的编织物300中第三地梳单元260的垫纱组织示意图。再者,图8至图13绘示的纱线213、223、233、243、253、263也分别表示第一地梳单元210、第一贾卡单元220、第二贾卡单元230、第二地梳单元240、第三地梳单元250、260的垫纱组织及编织路径。Fig. 8 shows a schematic diagram of the laying yarn structure of the first
请参照图8至图13,第一地梳单元210、第二地梳单元240及第三地梳单元250、260分别具有垫纱组织,其中第一地梳单元210的垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-0-0-0/0-1-1-1//(如图8绘示的纱线213),第二地梳单元240的垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-0-2-1/2-3-1-2//(如图11绘示的纱线243),第三地梳单元250的垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-1-0-1/1-1-2-1//(如图12绘示的纱线253),第三地梳单元260的垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-1-0-1/2-2-3-2//(如图13绘示的纱线263)。本实施例中,第三地梳单元的数量为二个,即第三地梳单元250、260,且第三地梳单元250、260的垫纱组织的垫纱数码不同。借此,第三地梳单元250、260可于后针床面302形成舒适内里。Please refer to Fig. 8 to Fig. 13, the first
请参照图9A及图9B,在编织步骤120中,第一贾卡单元220可用以编织成开口线圈,且不编织成闭口线圈,即图9A及图9B中第一贾卡单元220的纱线223包含线圈225,其为开口线圈,不为闭口线圈。借此,有利于第一贾卡单元220配合第二贾卡单元230做组织的半边隐藏。以下将举例说明第一贾卡单元220及第二贾卡单元230依据不同的贾卡控制信息进行偏移以形成不同视觉效果的详细作动。Please refer to FIG. 9A and FIG. 9B , in the weaving
请参照图3B及图9A,图9A左侧的第一贾卡单元220(及其纱线223)的原始垫纱组织的垫纱数码为0-1-1-1/2-1-1-1//,第一贾卡单元220根据贾卡控制信息的偏移信号偏移,其偏移信号为TTHHHHHH,以获得图9A右侧的第一贾卡单元220的缇花垫纱组织,其垫纱数码为1-2-1-1/2-1-1-1//,且搭配第一地梳单元210的垫纱组织而形成前针床面301的网孔组织370a,并如图3B所示。Please refer to Fig. 3B and Fig. 9A, the lapping number of the original lapping yarn structure of the first jacquard unit 220 (and its yarn 223) on the left side of Fig. 9A is 0-1-1-1/2-1-1- 1//, the
请参照图3B及图9B,图9B左侧的第一贾卡单元220(及其纱线223)的原始垫纱组织的垫纱数码为0-1-1-1/2-1-1-1//,第一贾卡单元220根据贾卡控制信息的偏移信号偏移,其偏移信号为HHHHTTHH,以获得图9B右侧的第一贾卡单元220的缇花垫纱组织,其垫纱数码为0-1-1-1/3-2-1-1//,且搭配第一地梳单元210的垫纱组织而形成前针床面301的厚平布组织370b,也为开口厚实密纹组织,并如图3B所示。Please refer to Fig. 3B and Fig. 9B, the lapping number of the original lapping yarn structure of the first jacquard unit 220 (and its yarn 223) on the left side of Fig. 9B is 0-1-1-1/2-1-1- 1//, the
请参照图6及图10A,图10A左侧的第二贾卡单元230(及其纱线233)的原始垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-1-1-0/1-1-1-2//,第二贾卡单元230根据贾卡控制信息的偏移信号偏移,其偏移信号为HHHHHHTT,以获得图10A右侧的第二贾卡单元230的缇花垫纱组织,其垫纱数码为1-1-1-0/1-1-0-1//,且搭配第三地梳单元250、260的垫纱组织而形成后针床面302的网孔组织380a,也为网孔编链组织,并如图6所示。Please refer to Fig. 6 and Fig. 10A, the lapping number of the original laying yarn organization of the second jacquard unit 230 (and its yarn 233) on the left side of Fig. 10A is 1-1-1-0/1-1-1- 2//, the
请参照图6及图10B,图10B左侧的第二贾卡单元230(及其纱线233)的原始垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-1-1-0/1-1-1-2//,第二贾卡单元230根据贾卡控制信息的偏移信号偏移,其偏移信号为HHTTHHHH,以获得图10B右侧的第二贾卡单元230的缇花垫纱组织,其垫纱数码为1-1-0-(-1)/1-1-1-2//,且搭配第三地梳单元250、260的垫纱组织而形成后针床面302的厚平布组织380b,也为厚实密纹组织,并如图6所示。Please refer to Fig. 6 and Fig. 10B, the lapping number of the original lapping yarn structure of the second jacquard unit 230 (and its yarn 233) on the left side of Fig. 10B is 1-1-1-0/1-1-1- 2//, the
请参照图10C,在编织步骤120中,第二贾卡单元230(及其纱线233)可还用以于前针床201编织成线圈235,并编织成显露于面层310的V点花型。借此,传统双贾卡在产品的表现上大多为网孔搭配深浅色缇花,且表面上的双V或者单V点花型的缇花层容易产生起毛的问题,而依据本发明的编织方法100所制成的编织物300可有效避免所述问题。图10C左侧的第二贾卡单元230(及其纱线233)的原始垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-1-1-0/1-1-1-2//,第二贾卡单元230根据贾卡控制信息的偏移信号偏移,其偏移信号为THTHHHTT,以获得图10C右侧的第二贾卡单元230的缇花垫纱组织,其垫纱数码为0-1-0-0/1-1-0-1//,且搭配第一地梳单元210及第一贾卡单元220的垫纱组织而形成前针床面301的V点花型。Please refer to FIG. 10C, in the
请参照图3B,在编织步骤120中,第一地梳单元210、第一贾卡单元220及第二贾卡单元230可用以编织成编链组织370d。借此,提升编织物300的内部结构及外观的多样性。Referring to FIG. 3B , in the weaving
请参照图3B及图10D,在编织步骤120中,第二贾卡单元230可还用以将第二贾卡单元230编织成的线圈235的部分被第一地梳单元210编织成的线圈215及第一贾卡单元220编织成的线圈225所遮蔽,且第二贾卡单元230编织成的线圈235的另一部分显露于面层310。借此,将第二贾卡单元230的梳节位置设定在第三梳节位置,与第一贾卡单元220有角度以及动程的落差,使第二贾卡单元230在前针床201走编链组织并非像现有技术的阳离子纱会完全覆盖在前针床面301的最表层,进一步地利用第二贾卡单元230的纱线233在第一地梳单元210、第一贾卡单元220的纱线213、223表面的隐藏半边缇花,使编织物300的布面呈现出人字纹333,从而编织物300成为一种人字纹333缇花经编网布。另外,依据本发明的编织方法100所制成的编织物300可有效解决容易起毛断纱的问题,人字纹333缇花纹紧密贴合在第一地梳单元210的线圈215和第一贾卡单元220的线圈225中,不容易起毛勾断,更符合复杂形状或结构的产品(例如鞋类产品)的需求。图10D左侧的第二贾卡单元230(及其纱线233)的原始垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-1-1-0/1-1-1-2//,第二贾卡单元230根据贾卡控制信息的偏移信号偏移,其偏移信号为THTHHTHT,以获得图10D右侧的第二贾卡单元230的缇花垫纱组织,其垫纱数码为0-1-0-0/1-0-1-1//,且搭配第一地梳单元210及第一贾卡单元220的垫纱组织而形成前针床面301的编链组织370d,其包含人字纹333,也可为浅色双V人字纹333缇花,并如图3B所示。3B and FIG. 10D, in the weaving
请参照图4、图5、图7及图10E,在编织步骤120中,当第二贾卡单元230连接面层310及底层350时,第一地梳单元210、第一贾卡单元220、第二贾卡单元230及第三地梳单元250、260可用以编织成中层结构370e、380e,其为厚实中层结构。借此,提升编织物300的内部结构及外观的多样性。图10E左侧的第二贾卡单元230(及其纱线233)的原始垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-1-1-0/1-1-1-2//,第二贾卡单元230根据贾卡控制信息的偏移信号偏移,其偏移信号为THHHHTTT,以获得图10E右侧的第二贾卡单元230的缇花垫纱组织,其垫纱数码为0-1-1-0/1-0-0-1//,即第二贾卡单元230在前针床201及后针床202之间交替编织,且搭配第一地梳单元210及第一贾卡单元220的垫纱组织而形成前针床面301的中层结构370e,其为厚实中层结构并包含人字纹333,也可为深色人字纹333缇花编链组织(如图4、图5所示),并搭配第三地梳单元250、260的垫纱组织而形成后针床面302的中层结构380e(如图7所示),其为厚实中层结构。Please refer to Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 7 and Fig. 10E, in weaving
请参照图10F,图10F左侧的第二贾卡单元230(及其纱线233)的原始垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-1-1-0/1-1-1-2//,第二贾卡单元230根据贾卡控制信息的偏移信号偏移,其偏移信号为HHTHHHHT,以获得图10F右侧的第二贾卡单元230的缇花垫纱组织,其垫纱数码为1-1-0-0/1-1-1-1//,由于没有网孔区域使用,故可降低克重。Please refer to Fig. 10F, the lapping numbers of the original lapping structure of the second jacquard unit 230 (and its yarn 233) on the left side of Fig. 10F are 1-1-1-0/1-1-1-2// , the
请参照图7、图12及图13,图12的第三地梳单元250(及其纱线253)的垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-1-0-1/1-1-2-1//,第三地梳单元260(及其纱线263)的垫纱组织的垫纱数码为1-1-0-1/2-2-3-2//,而形成后针床面302的厚平布组织381b,也可为平纹组织以形成舒适内里,并如图7所示。Please refer to Fig. 7, Fig. 12 and Fig. 13, the lapping number of the lapping yarn organization of the 3rd ground comb unit 250 (and its yarn 253) of Fig. 12 is 1-1-0-1/1-1-2- 1//, the number of laying yarns of the laying yarn of the third ground comb unit 260 (and its yarn 263) is 1-1-0-1/2-2-3-2//, and forms the back needle bed surface The thick
请参照图3A至图7,本发明另一实施方式的一实施例的编织物300是利用前述实施方式的编织方法100所制成的编织物300,其包含面层310、底层350、缇花层330及内层340。面层310由第一地梳单元210编织而成。底层350由第三地梳单元250、260中至少一者编织而成。缇花层330由第一贾卡单元220及第二贾卡单元230编织而成,缇花层330连接面层310。内层340由第二地梳单元240编织而成,内层340连接面层310及底层350。借此,通过变化第一贾卡单元220及第二贾卡单元230的缇花垫纱组织,以获得不同视觉效果的编织物300,并可搭配第一地梳单元210、第二地梳单元240及第三地梳单元250、260的垫纱组织获得双色、多色、混色或变化色的效果,且可依据产品需求调整及组合,本发明并不以此揭示内容为限。Please refer to FIG. 3A to FIG. 7 , a
虽然本发明已以实施方式揭露如上,然其并非用以限定本发明,任何本领域技术人员,在不脱离本发明的精神和范围内,当可作各种的更动与润饰,因此本发明的保护范围当视权利要求书所界定者为准。Although the present invention has been disclosed above in terms of implementation, it is not intended to limit the present invention. Any person skilled in the art may make various changes and modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Therefore, the present invention The scope of protection shall prevail as defined in the claims.
【符号说明】【Symbol Description】
-1,0,1,2,3:垫纱数码-1,0,1,2,3: Pad yarn digital
100:编织方法100: Weaving method
110:配置步骤110: Configuration steps
120:编织步骤120: Weaving steps
201:前针床201: Front needle bed
202:后针床202: rear needle bed
205:前沉降片205: front sinker
210:第一地梳单元210: The first ground comb unit
213,223,224,233,234,243,253,263:纱线213,223,224,233,234,243,253,263: yarn
215,225,235:线圈215,225,235: Coil
220:第一贾卡单元220: The first jacquard unit
221,222:第一子贾卡单元221,222: The first sub-Jaka unit
230:第二贾卡单元230: The second jacquard unit
231,232:第二子贾卡单元231,232: The second sub-Jaka unit
240:第二地梳单元240: The second ground comb unit
250,260:第三地梳单元250,260: The third floor comb unit
300:编织物300: Knit
301:前针床面301: front needle bed surface
302:后针床面302: rear needle bed surface
310:面层310: surface layer
330:缇花层330: jacquard layer
333:人字纹333: Herringbone pattern
340:内层340: inner layer
350:底层350: bottom layer
370a,380a:网孔组织370a, 380a: mesh organization
370b,380b,381b:厚平布组织370b, 380b, 381b: thick plain cloth
370d:编链组织370d: Chain organization
370e,380e:中层结构370e, 380e: Middle-level structure
a2:第一贾卡单元与前沉降片的倾斜角a2: Inclination angle between the first jacquard unit and the front sinker
a3:第二贾卡单元与前沉降片的倾斜角a3: The inclination angle between the second jacquard unit and the front sinker
s3:第二地梳单元与第三地梳单元的间距s3: the distance between the second ground comb unit and the third ground comb unit
s5:二第三地梳单元的间距。s5: the spacing between the second and third ground comb units.
Claims (13)
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