CN115363968A

CN115363968A - Foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN115363968A
Application number: CN202211078558.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 徐学俊; 黄春东; 殷正凯
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2022-09-05
Filing date: 2022-09-05
Publication date: 2022-11-22
Anticipated expiration: 2042-09-05
Also published as: CN115363968B

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase makeup removing cleansing liquid and a preparation method thereof. The foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid comprises the following components in parts by weight: 15-35 parts of composite emulsifier, 3-15 parts of composite liquid grease, 0.1-0.5 part of macromolecular cross-linking agent, 1-10 parts of polyalcohol and 40-80 parts of water; the compound emulsifier is a mixture of amino acid anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, alkyl glycoside and polyglycerol fatty acid ester. The foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid has better foam fineness and foam stabilizing capability, can effectively solve the problems of weak foaming and incapability of efficiently and immediately removing oil-based color cosmetics and water-based color cosmetics in the traditional bicontinuous phase cleansing products, greatly reduces the irritation of the traditional cleansing foam, refreshes the skin feel, and cannot excessively clean while effectively removing the color cosmetics and skin dirt.

Description

Foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase makeup removing cleansing liquid and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The makeup remover oil has limited removing capability for color makeup containing aqueous film forming agents, such as eyeliner mascara and the like, and only oil-soluble oil can be used for removing oil-based color makeup. The makeup remover can not achieve good makeup removing effect on the oil-based color makeup. In addition, the makeup remover has weak makeup removing capability, so that the makeup remover can achieve the effect of removing by rubbing for many times or wiping with a makeup removing towel, and excessive rubbing is not friendly to the healthy environment of the skin surface layer.

Although a bicontinuous makeup removing product exists in the existing market, the makeup removing effect can be realized, but the makeup removing product needs to be wiped for a certain time, the instant and quick makeup removing effect cannot be realized, and the foaming or poor foaming effect cannot be realized. Although the amino acid cleansing foam product is mild to the skin and has strong foaming capacity, the amino acid cleansing foam product has the problem of incomplete makeup removal for color cosmetics or sun-screening cosmetics, and the phenomenon of strong skin tightness after washing generally exists because the anionic surfactant has strong degreasing capacity. Although the amino acid cleansing foam in the market is foamed densely, the foam only can provide skin feel and texture in use and has no effect on cleaning because the foam is a water-based system.

Patent document CN201710919271.0 discloses an amino acid facial cleanser and a preparation method thereof, wherein the amino acid facial cleanser comprises, by mass, 10-50% of an amino acid surfactant, 1-10% of an amphoteric surfactant, 3-20% of vegetable oil, 0.1-5% of a thickening agent and the balance deionized water. The amino acid facial cleanser disclosed by the invention is rich in foam, the oil content is up to 20%, and the amino acid facial cleanser has the synergistic effect of the surfactant, the vegetable oil and the thickening agent, so that the amino acid facial cleanser not only has strong cleaning and moisturizing capabilities, but also has nourishing and repairing effects, but cannot be well cleaned and removed aiming at aqueous or oily color cosmetics, and is poor in stability.

Patent document CN202210260654.2 discloses a foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil and a preparation method thereof, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: a first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; a second polyglycerin fatty acid ester; an oil-soluble surfactant; a polyol; liquid grease; and (3) water. The foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil obtained by the invention has the characteristics of effectively improving cleansing effect of cleansing and avoiding excessive cleansing caused by continuous cleansing, but can achieve the effects of water-oil double cleansing and long cleansing time for water-based or oil-based color makeup only by wiping for a period of time, and cannot realize the effect of immediate and rapid cleansing.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid and a preparation method thereof. The foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase makeup removing cleansing liquid has good foam fineness and foam stabilizing capacity, can effectively solve the problems that the traditional bicontinuous phase makeup removing product is weak in foaming and cannot efficiently and immediately remove oily makeup and water-based makeup, simultaneously greatly reduces the irritation of the traditional cleansing foam, gives consideration to the mildness of eyes and skin, can be used by dry and wet hands, refreshes skin, and cannot excessively clean when effectively removing makeup and skin dirt.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme: a foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid comprises the following components in parts by weight: 15-35 parts of composite emulsifier, 3-15 parts of composite liquid grease, 0.1-0.5 part of macromolecular cross-linking agent, 1-10 parts of polyalcohol and 40-80 parts of water;

the compound emulsifier is a mixture of amino acid anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, alkyl glycoside and polyglycerol fatty acid ester.

Preferably, the foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase makeup remover cleansing fluid comprises the following components in parts by weight: 25-33 parts of composite emulsifier, 5-10 parts of composite liquid grease, 0.2-0.3 part of macromolecular cross-linking agent, 1-5 parts of polyhydric alcohol and 55-65 parts of water.

Preferably, the mass ratio of the amino acid anionic surfactant, the amphoteric surfactant, the alkyl glycoside and the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is (1-10): (1-5): (1-10): (8 to 15).

Preferably, the foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid at least comprises one of the following (1) to (4):

(1) The amino acid anionic surfactant is at least one of sodium lauroyl malate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate and potassium cocoyl glycinate;

(2) The alkyl glycoside is at least one of C8-C10 alkyl glycoside, C10-C12 alkyl glycoside, C12-C14 alkyl glycoside and C14-C16 alkyl glycoside;

(3) The polyglycerol fatty acid ester is at least one of polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-6 didecanoate and polyglycerol-10 stearate;

(4) The amphoteric surfactant is at least one of cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, sodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate and sodium lauroamphoacetate.

Preferably, the macromolecular crosslinking agent is at least one of PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate and PEG-150 distearate.

Preferably, the composite liquid grease is a mixture of polar grease and non-polar grease.

Preferably, the polar grease is at least one of isononyl isononanoate, coco-caprylate/caprate and cetyl ethyl hexanoate; the nonpolar oil is at least one of white mineral oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isododecane, isohexadecane, C9-12 alkane and C13-15 alkane.

More preferably, the polar grease is isononyl isononanoate and cetyl ethyl hexanoate; the nonpolar oil is white mineral oil. Wherein the mass ratio of isononyl isononanoate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate and white mineral oil is 3:1.5:5.

the inventor finds that because the polarity of the oil ester is moderate in size and small in difference, and the polarity of the hydrophilic end of the amino acid surfactant is large, the oil ester with larger polarity is not suitable for being used, and when the compound liquid oil is a mixture of isononyl isononanoate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate and white mineral oil, the prepared bicontinuous phase cleansing lotion has better foaming and cleansing effects.

Preferably, the polyhydric alcohol is at least one of butylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol, and 1, 2-pentanediol.

The preparation method of the foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid comprises the following steps:

heating the composite emulsifier, the composite liquid oil, the macromolecular cross-linking agent and water, uniformly mixing, cooling, adding the polyol, uniformly stirring, and pumping out through a foaming pump to obtain the foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid.

Preferably, the heating is to 40-60 ℃; and the temperature is reduced to 25-30 ℃.

Preferably, the speed of stirring uniformly is 300-500 rpm/min, and the stirring time is 30-60 min.

The compound emulsifier prepared by compounding the amino acid anionic surfactant, the amphoteric surfactant, the alkyl glycoside, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester and the macromolecular cross-linking agent can ensure that the makeup removing cleansing lotion forms stable bicontinuous phase emulsion. The amino acid anionic surfactant has strong foaming capacity and is mild, and the stability of a system interface can be improved due to the fact that the amino acid anionic surfactant has negative anionic charges, but the amino acid anionic surfactant can form spherical micelles in water due to low stacking constant, a bicontinuous phase micelle interface with the curvature of 0 is difficult to form, and the polyglycerol fatty acid ester can be inserted into the amino acid anionic surfactant micelle interface to form the bicontinuous phase micelle interface with the curvature of 0 by adding the polyglycerol fatty acid ester. The polyglycerol fatty acid ester has more hydrophilic terminal hydroxyl groups, has strong water locking capacity during foaming, can further form hydrogen bonds with glucoside hydroxyl groups in alkyl glucoside, and can interact with the glucoside hydroxyl groups to improve the mildness. The addition of the amphoteric surfactant can generate a synergistic reaction with the amino acid anionic surfactant, the alkyl glycoside and the polyglycerol fatty acid ester, effectively improve the stability and the makeup removing capability of the surface arrangement interface of the bicontinuous phase micelle, and reduce the irritation of the system. Macromolecular crosslinkers further stabilize the surface and foam interface.

The amino acid anionic surfactant, the amphoteric surfactant, the alkyl glycoside, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester and the macromolecular cross-linking agent are added, so that the irritation of a system can be effectively reduced, the interface stability, the foam stabilizing performance and the makeup removing capability on water-based or oil-based color makeup are improved, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester can form a layer of protective film on the surface of skin, the water is preserved, the skin is protected, and the dry feeling brought by makeup removing and cleaning is improved. In addition, in the formula system of the invention, the polyalcohol and the oil ester can be sequentially adsorbed on the head part, the middle part and the tail part of the oleophilic end of the emulsifier according to the polarity, so that the polyalcohol and the oil ester do not act on a liquid film, and when the foam contacts the color cosmetics and is moderately cracked, the polyalcohol and the oil ester carried by the emulsifier molecules and the oleophilic end quickly permeate into the color cosmetics interface from the air interface, thereby realizing the effect of immediate and quick removal.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

the foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase makeup removing cleansing liquid prepared by the invention has the advantages of clear and transparent appearance, good stability, good liquid fluidity, fine and rich foam, fresh and cool skin feel after use, no tightness, quick makeup removal in only 3-5 seconds when contacting water-based or oil-based makeup, high efficiency, rapidness, effective makeup removal and skin dirt removal, no excessive cleaning, mildness to skin and eyes and no irritation.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a state of the art bicontinuous phase.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing foaming conditions of foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquids according to examples 1 to 5 of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a graph showing the foaming behavior of comparative examples 1 to 4 according to the present invention and a commercial bicontinuous phase makeup remover oil.

FIG. 4 is a diagram showing the state of a red oil-soluble pigment starting in a foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid (right) and a commercially available cleansing oil (left) in example 3 of the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a diagram showing the state of a red oil-soluble pigment in a foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid (right) and a commercially available cleansing oil (left) of the present invention, example 3, after 12 hours.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

In the examples and comparative examples, the experimental methods used were conventional unless otherwise specified, and the materials, reagents and the like used were commercially available unless otherwise specified.

The raw materials used in the examples and comparative examples are illustrated in Table 1.

TABLE 1

Example 1 foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid of the present invention

The foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid comprises the following components in parts by weight:

the preparation method comprises the following steps: heating the composite emulsifier, the composite liquid oil, the macromolecular cross-linking agent and water to 40 ℃, uniformly mixing, cooling to 25 ℃, adding the polyol, stirring at the rotating speed of 300rpm/min for 60min, and pumping out through a foaming pump to obtain the foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid.

Example 2 foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid of the present invention

the preparation method comprises the following steps: heating the composite emulsifier, the composite liquid grease, the macromolecular cross-linking agent and water to 50 ℃, uniformly mixing, cooling to 25 ℃, adding the polyalcohol, stirring at the rotating speed of 400rpm/min for 40min, and pumping out through a foaming pump to obtain the foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid.

Example 3 foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid of the present invention

the preparation method comprises the following steps: heating the composite emulsifier, the composite liquid grease, the macromolecular cross-linking agent and water to 50 ℃, uniformly mixing, cooling to 25 ℃, adding the polyalcohol, stirring at the rotating speed of 400rpm/min for 30min, and pumping out through a foaming pump to obtain the foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid.

Example 4 foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid of the present invention

the preparation method comprises the following steps: heating the composite emulsifier, the composite liquid grease, the macromolecular cross-linking agent and water to 60 ℃, uniformly mixing, cooling to 30 ℃, adding the polyol, stirring for 30min at the rotating speed of 500rpm/min, and pumping out through a foaming pump to obtain the foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid.

Example 5 foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid of the present invention

the preparation method refers to example 3.

Comparative example 1

The comparative example differs from example 3 in that: the compound emulsifier is not added with amino acid anionic surfactant and polyglycerol fatty acid ester.

The preparation method refers to example 3.

Comparative example 2

The comparative example differs from example 3 in that: the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is not added in the composite emulsifier.

The preparation method refers to example 3.

Comparative example 3

The comparative example differs from example 3 in that: the compound emulsifier is not added with an amphoteric surfactant.

The preparation method refers to example 3.

Comparative example 4

The comparative example differs from example 3 in that: no macromolecular crosslinking agent was added.

The preparation method refers to example 3.

Test example I, stability test

1. Experimental sample: foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid and commercially available bicontinuous phase cleansing oil prepared in examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4.

2. The experimental method comprises the following steps:

(1) The state after foaming was observed: the foam size pumped by the foaming pump was measured and the disappearance time of the foam was tested. The foaming was shown in FIGS. 2 to 3.

(2) And (3) appearance judgment: the cleansing liquid was visually observed for clarity (transparent, translucent, turbid).

(3) The stability test method comprises the following steps: the test is carried out according to the physicochemical index detection standard of the makeup remover (type II) in GB/T35914-2018 makeup remover oil (liquid, milk, paste and cream) GBT 35914-2018. The test results are shown in table 1 below.

Table 1 stability test results for each sample

The data in table 1 show that the foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid prepared by the embodiment of the invention has clear and transparent appearance, small and exquisite foamed foam diameter and good foam stability, can provide better sensory experience for consumers due to difficult defoaming, and can still maintain high stability after cold resistance and heat resistance tests.

The foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid prepared by four groups of comparative examples has larger foam and is easy to defoam due to the lack of amino acid anionic surfactant and polyglycerol fatty acid ester component in comparative example 1, the lack of polyglycerol fatty acid ester component in comparative example 2, the lack of amphoteric surfactant component in comparative example 3 and the lack of macromolecular cross-linking agent in comparative example 4, and the product has poor stability in high-temperature or low-temperature environment and is not beneficial to long-term storage.

The formulation of the commercial bicontinuous phase cleansing oil product has high viscosity due to the glycerol, so that no foam can be generated by a pump, and the formulation of the commercial product uses PEG-12 laurate as a composite emulsifier, so that the water-locking capacity of the formulation is weak, and the formulation cannot be foamed.

Test example two, makeup removal effect and irritation test

1. Experimental sample:

the two continuous phase cleansing liquids prepared in examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4.

2. The test method comprises

(1) Healthy female volunteers 25-35 years old are selected and randomly grouped, 10 people in each group are sequentially smeared on the inner side skin of a cleaned arm by using the same type of aqueous eyeliner, aqueous mascara and oily lipstick in equal amount, after the cosmetics are dried, the double-continuous phase cleansing lotion foams of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4 are pumped out by using the same foaming pump to be 5 seconds at the position of the inner side of the arm coated with different cosmetics, then the cleansing cotton is used for wiping in the same direction, the wiping step is repeated by replacing the cleansing cotton until no color exists on the cleansing cotton, the wiping times and the residual condition of the cosmetics are recorded, and the skin irritation (note: 0 minute, no irritation; 1 minute, slight irritation; 2 minutes, moderate irritation; 3 minutes, severe irritation) is also recorded. The test results are shown in table 2.

TABLE 2 make-up removal and irritation results for each sample

As can be seen from the data in table 2, the foaming-type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid prepared in the embodiment of the present invention has strong aqueous/oily color cleansing ability, can achieve a good cleansing effect for oily lipstick, is clean and residue-free to be cleansed, and is mild to skin without irritation. Therefore, the cleansing effect of the foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid prepared by the invention can be effectively improved through the interaction among the components of the amino acid anionic surfactant, the amphoteric surfactant, the alkyl glycoside, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester and the macromolecular cross-linking agent.

(2) The cleansing ability of the foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid for foam cleansing and the cleansing ability of the non-foaming type cleansing in example 3 were tested by applying the same amount of aqueous eyeliner, aqueous mascara, and oily lipstick to the inner side of the cleaned arm of healthy female volunteers 25-35 years old, randomly grouped, 10 people per group, pumping out the foam of the amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid in example 3 and pouring out the amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid stock of example 3 on the positions coated with different cosmetics on the inner side of the arm for 5 seconds by using a foaming pump after the belt-type cosmetics are dried, then wiping the belt-type cleansing liquid in the same direction by using a cleansing cotton, repeating the wiping step by replacing the cleansing cotton until no color is formed on the cleansing cotton, recording the number of wiping and the condition of remaining cosmetics, and the test results are shown in the following table 3.

TABLE 3 foam make-up removal and no foam make-up removal wipe times results

Test items	Example 3 foam	EXAMPLE 3 stock solution
			Aqueous eyeliner	2	5
Aqueous mascara	2	5
			Oily lipstick	1	6
Residual condition of cosmetic	Clean makeup removal without residue	Clean makeup removal without residue

From the data in table 3, it can be known that the foam-type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid foam and the stock solution in example 3 of the present invention can achieve a better cleansing effect, and the cleansing effect is better when the foam is foamed than when the foam is not foamed.

Test example three, bicontinuous phase test

Example 3 bicontinuous phase of foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid, test method: respectively taking 30ml of commercially available bicontinuous phase makeup removing oil and the amino acid bicontinuous phase makeup removing cleansing liquid in the example 3, placing the commercially available bicontinuous phase makeup removing oil and the amino acid bicontinuous phase makeup removing cleansing liquid in a beaker, then respectively taking 3ml of red oil-soluble pigment and dropwise adding the red oil-soluble pigment into the beaker, and observing the self-diffusion condition of the oil-soluble pigment; the results of the test on the commercial bicontinuous phase cleansing oil are shown in FIGS. 4-5 and Table 4.

TABLE 4 self-diffusion of oil-soluble pigments

As can be seen from FIGS. 4 to 5, in the initial state, the red oil-soluble pigments of the foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid (left) of example 3 of the present invention and the commercially available bicontinuous phase cleansing oil (right) both float on the upper part of the liquid surface, but after 12 hours, the invention of example 3 can still form a uniform penetrating phase (left), but the commercially available bicontinuous phase cleansing oil (right) has a small amount of non-spreading on the upper part of the liquid surface.

The foregoing embodiments are merely illustrative of the principles and utilities of the present invention and are not intended to limit the invention. Any person skilled in the art can modify or change the above-mentioned embodiments without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Accordingly, it is intended that all equivalent modifications or changes which can be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and technical spirit of the present invention be covered by the claims of the present invention.

Claims

1. A foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 15-35 parts of composite emulsifier, 3-15 parts of composite liquid grease, 0.1-0.5 part of macromolecular cross-linking agent, 1-10 parts of polyhydric alcohol and 40-80 parts of water;

2. The foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase makeup remover according to claim 1, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 25-33 parts of composite emulsifier, 5-10 parts of composite liquid grease, 0.2-0.3 part of macromolecular cross-linking agent, 1-5 parts of polyhydric alcohol and 55-65 parts of water.

3. The foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the amino acid anionic surfactant, the amphoteric surfactant, the alkyl glycoside and the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is (1-10): (1-5): (1-10): (8-15).

4. The foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid according to claim 1, characterized by comprising at least one of the following (1) to (4):

5. The foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid of claim 1, wherein said macromolecular crosslinking agent is at least one of PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate and PEG-150 distearate.

6. The foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid according to claim 1, wherein the complex liquid oil is a mixture of polar oil and nonpolar oil.

7. The foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid of claim 6, wherein said polar oil is at least one of isononyl isononanoate, coco-caprylate/caprate, cetyl ethylhexanoate; the nonpolar oil is at least one of white mineral oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isododecane, isohexadecane, C9-12 alkane and C13-15 alkane.

8. The foaming amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid of claim 1, wherein said polyhydric alcohol is at least one of butylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol, and 1, 2-pentanediol.

9. A method for preparing the foaming type amino acid bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized by comprising the following steps:

10. The method of claim 9, wherein the heating is to 40-60 ℃; and the temperature is reduced to 25-30 ℃.