CN115323592B - Anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling fabric with connecting layer and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling fabric with connecting layer and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 94
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title abstract description 21
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 105
- 239000002344 surface layer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 34
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 29
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 22
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 20
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920001707 polybutylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims 2
- 239000012467 final product Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 6
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- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 abstract description 2
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- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 10
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
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- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000013527 degreasing agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000005237 degreasing agent Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 2
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
Description
技术领域Technical field
本发明涉及一种织物及其制备方法,属于纺织技术领域。The invention relates to a fabric and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the field of textile technology.
背景技术Background technique
针织空气层面料具有蓬松挺阔、软弹舒适的特点,是近年来广受欢迎的面料之一,常用于秋冬外套、卫衣、卫裤。空气层组织与其正反面平针组织之间没有联系,且在针盘针筒上同时编织集圈,集圈填充在正反面形成的空气层中,使织物厚实蓬松。Knitted air layer fabric is fluffy, wide, soft, elastic and comfortable. It is one of the most popular fabrics in recent years and is often used in autumn and winter coats, sweatshirts and sweatpants. There is no connection between the air layer tissue and the plain knit tissue on its front and back sides, and tucks are woven on the dial and cylinder at the same time. The tucks fill the air layer formed on the front and back, making the fabric thick and fluffy.
但是经过长期的穿着摩擦后易出现起球勾丝情况,属于该面料的痛点问题。目前常用的解决方案,一是采用抗滑移整理剂降低涤纶丝的滑移,但是效果并不明显,同时后整理阶段对柔软剂的使用限制较大,成品手感的牺牲较大;二是针对织物表面的毛羽进行处理,对起毛起球现象有一定的改善,但对于勾丝现象并无明显改善效果。However, after long-term wear and friction, pilling and snagging are easy to occur, which is a pain point of this fabric. Currently commonly used solutions are: first, using anti-slip finishing agents to reduce the slip of polyester filaments, but the effect is not obvious. At the same time, the use of softeners in the post-finishing stage is highly restricted, resulting in a greater sacrifice in the feel of the finished product; the second is to target Treating the hairiness on the surface of the fabric can improve the pilling phenomenon to a certain extent, but there is no obvious improvement in the snagging phenomenon.
申请号为201910820707的发明专利申请涉及一种抗起球抗勾丝提花面料及其制备方法,其是采用20D/1F的长丝编织来避免起球勾丝,但采用单丝编织难以获得蓬松柔软的手感。The invention patent application with application number 201910820707 relates to an anti-pilling and anti-snagging jacquard fabric and its preparation method. It uses 20D/1F filament weaving to avoid pilling and snagging, but it is difficult to obtain fluffy and soft fabrics using monofilament weaving. feel.
CN 110923921 B公开了一种抗起球涤纶/棉针织物及其制造工艺,其是采用含低熔点涤纶的复合聚酯层做连接层,可以有效避免勾丝,但低熔点涤纶熔化后结晶度增加,引起织物手感发硬变僵,丧失蓬松感。CN 110923921 B discloses an anti-pilling polyester/cotton knitted fabric and its manufacturing process. It uses a composite polyester layer containing low melting point polyester as the connecting layer, which can effectively avoid snagging, but the low melting point polyester has low crystallinity after melting. Increase, causing the fabric to feel hard and stiff, and lose its fluffy feel.
发明内容Contents of the invention
为解决上述技术问题,本发明的目的在于提供一种织物,其是采用具有卷曲收缩变形功能的复丝来形成连接层,以解决空气层织物的起毛起球与勾丝问题。In order to solve the above technical problems, the object of the present invention is to provide a fabric that uses multifilaments with curling, shrinkage and deformation functions to form a connecting layer, so as to solve the problems of pilling and snagging of air layer fabrics.
为达到上述目的,本发明提供了一种具有连接层的防勾丝抗起毛起球的织物,其中,该织物包括表层、连接层、底层,所述表层和底层通过所述连接层连接;In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a fabric with a connecting layer that is anti-snagging and anti-pilling, wherein the fabric includes a surface layer, a connecting layer, and a bottom layer, and the surface layer and the bottom layer are connected through the connecting layer;
所述连接层由复丝形成,其中,所述复丝满足以下条件:The connecting layer is formed of multifilament, wherein the multifilament meets the following conditions:
20%≤卷曲收缩率≤55%,1D≤单丝细度≤5D,9≤F数≤144。20%≤crimp shrinkage≤55%, 1D≤monofilament fineness≤5D, 9≤F number≤144.
根据本发明的具体实施方案,所述复丝由若干根单丝组成,优选地,所述复丝满足以下条件:35%≤卷曲收缩率≤55%。卷曲收缩率是复丝生产时控制的性能指标。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the multifilament consists of several single filaments. Preferably, the multifilament satisfies the following conditions: 35% ≤ crimp shrinkage ≤ 55%. Crimp shrinkage is a performance indicator controlled during multifilament production.
根据本发明的具体实施方案,优选地,所述复丝满足以下条件:2.5D≤单丝细度≤4D。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the multifilament satisfies the following conditions: 2.5D≤monofilament fineness≤4D.
根据本发明的具体实施方案,优选地,所述复丝满足以下条件:12≤F数≤72。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the multifilament satisfies the following conditions: 12≤F number≤72.
根据本发明的具体实施方案,优选地,所述表层的横密范围为30-60纵行/英寸、纵密范围为30-70横列/英寸。横向密度(横密)、纵向密度(纵密)都是以1英寸的线圈个数表示。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the surface layer has a transverse density range of 30-60 wales/inch and a longitudinal density range of 30-70 courses/inch. Transverse density (horizontal density) and longitudinal density (vertical density) are expressed in terms of the number of coils in 1 inch.
根据本发明的具体实施方案,本发明的织物不采用氨纶长丝做连接丝,氨纶都是单丝,且弹性回复太大,在弹力作用下将会降低正反面层之间的距离,导致织物没有蓬松的空气层,且没有复丝作为连接丝的蓬松感。According to the specific embodiment of the present invention, the fabric of the present invention does not use spandex filaments as connecting yarns. Spandex is all monofilament, and the elastic recovery is too large, which will reduce the distance between the front and back layers under the action of elasticity, resulting in The fabric does not have a fluffy air layer, and does not have the fluffy feel of multifilament as the connecting yarn.
根据本发明的具体实施方案,优选地,组成所述复丝的单丝包括聚酯纤维、涤锦复合纤维、锦纶纤维中的一种或两种以上的组合。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the monofilaments that make up the multifilament include one or a combination of two or more of polyester fiber, polyester-nylon composite fiber, and nylon fiber.
根据本发明的具体实施方案,优选地,所述聚酯纤维的材质选自聚对苯二甲酸乙二酯(PET)、聚对苯二甲酸丁二酯(PBT)、聚对苯二甲酸丙二酯(PTT)中的一种或两种以上的组合。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the material of the polyester fiber is selected from the group consisting of polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), and polypropylene terephthalate. One or a combination of two or more diesters (PTT).
根据本发明的具体实施方案,优选地,所述聚酯纤维的材质为双组份聚酯或单组分聚酯。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the material of the polyester fiber is two-component polyester or one-component polyester.
根据本发明的具体实施方案,优选地,该织物为中空层面料。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the fabric is a hollow layer fabric.
根据本发明的具体实施方案,优选地,该织物包括至少一层表层和至少一层底层,例如两层表层和两层底层,或者,三层表层和三层底层。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the fabric includes at least one surface layer and at least one bottom layer, for example, two surface layers and two bottom layers, or three surface layers and three bottom layers.
根据本发明的具体实施方案,本发明的具有连接层的防勾丝抗起毛起球的织物也可以称为抗起球勾丝空气层织物。优选地,所述织物在针织双面机上编织,所述表层在针筒上编织,所述底层在针盘上编织,所述连接层在针盘针筒上编织集圈。According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the anti-snagging and anti-pilling fabric with the connecting layer of the present invention may also be called an anti-pilling, snagging air layer fabric. Preferably, the fabric is knitted on a double-sided knitting machine, the surface layer is knitted on a needle cylinder, the bottom layer is knitted on a dial, and the connecting layer is knitted in tucks on a dial needle.
本发明还提供了上述织物的制备方法,其包括以下步骤:The invention also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned fabric, which includes the following steps:
以复丝作为连接层编织,得到坯布,其中,在编织过程中,使复丝伸直并对纱长采用偏小控制的方式进行控制;Weave the multifilament as the connecting layer to obtain a gray fabric. During the weaving process, the multifilament is straightened and the yarn length is controlled in a small way;
下机后,复丝发生弹性回复,在表层和底层之间形成连接层,同时,复丝带动表层和底层中的线圈收缩,得到所述织物。After being removed from the machine, the multifilament elastically recovers to form a connecting layer between the surface layer and the bottom layer. At the same time, the multifilament drives the coils in the surface layer and the bottom layer to shrink, thereby obtaining the fabric.
本发明所提供的制备方法在编织时通过控制编织张力使卷曲连接丝伸直,纱长偏小控制;下机后,由于作为连接丝的复丝的弹性回复作用,在表层和底层之间收缩成卷曲度高、蓬松、支撑效果好的空气层结构;同时作为连接丝的复丝的收缩带动织物的表层和底层中的线圈收缩,进一步提升织物表面的密度,解决空气层织物的起毛起球与勾丝问题。通过染整加工,作为连接丝的复丝能够进一步收缩,进一步提升表面密度。In the preparation method provided by the invention, the crimped connecting wire is straightened by controlling the braiding tension, and the yarn length is controlled to be small; after the machine is unloaded, due to the elastic recovery effect of the multifilament as the connecting wire, it shrinks between the surface layer and the bottom layer. It forms an air layer structure with high curl, fluffy and good support effect; at the same time, the shrinkage of the multifilament as the connecting thread drives the coils in the surface layer and bottom layer of the fabric to shrink, further increasing the density of the fabric surface and solving the pilling problem of the air layer fabric. Problem with snagging. Through dyeing and finishing, the multifilament yarn used as the connecting yarn can further shrink and further increase the surface density.
在上述制备方法中,优选地,所述对纱长采用偏小控制的方式进行控制选择以下两种方式之一:In the above preparation method, preferably, the yarn length is controlled in a small way and one of the following two methods is selected:
方式一:筒口距为1mm-2.5mm,采用针盘和针筒对针编织,纱长50C=100mm-170mm;Method 1: The distance between the barrel openings is 1mm-2.5mm, and the needle plate and cylinder are used for needle knitting. The yarn length is 50C=100mm-170mm;
方式二:筒口距为1mm-2.5mm,采用针盘针筒错针编织,纱长50C=200mm-340mm。Method 2: The distance between the barrel openings is 1mm-2.5mm, and the needle plate and barrel are used for staggered knitting. The yarn length is 50C=200mm-340mm.
在上述制备方法中,优选地,该制备方法还包括对坯布进行预缩处理、定型处理的过程。在预处理所包括的保温过程中,连接丝将会收缩。连接丝收缩后,卷曲度提高,能够提升空气层的结构稳定性,如图1、图2所示,其中,图1为普通空气层的示意图,图2为本发明的空气层的示意图。In the above preparation method, preferably, the preparation method also includes a process of preshrinking and shaping the gray fabric. During the insulation process included in the pre-treatment, the connecting wires will shrink. After the connecting wire shrinks, the curl degree increases, which can improve the structural stability of the air layer, as shown in Figures 1 and 2. Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of an ordinary air layer, and Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the air layer of the present invention.
在上述制备方法中,优选地,所述预缩处理包括平幅水洗预缩和/或缸内预缩。In the above preparation method, preferably, the pre-shrinking treatment includes open-width water washing pre-shrinking and/or in-cylinder pre-shrinking.
在上述制备方法中,所述织物的制备包括织坯、预缩处理、染色、定型等过程,优选地,所述织物的定型处理满足以下要求:预缩后门幅≤成品门幅≤预缩后门幅×1.08%,以避免在高温下将线圈纵列拉宽。In the above preparation method, the preparation of the fabric includes processes such as weaving base, preshrinking treatment, dyeing, and shaping. Preferably, the shaping treatment of the fabric meets the following requirements: preshrunk door width ≤ finished door width ≤ preshrunk back door Width × 1.08% to avoid widening the coil columns at high temperatures.
在上述制备方法中,通过控制预缩处理的保温过程中的温度或者染色的温度能够实现复丝(连接丝)的卷曲收缩。In the above preparation method, the curling and shrinkage of the multifilament (connecting filament) can be achieved by controlling the temperature during the heat preservation process of the preshrinking treatment or the dyeing temperature.
在上述制备方法中,优选地,所述预缩处理的保温过程的温度为80-135℃,更优选为130℃。In the above preparation method, preferably, the temperature of the heat preservation process of the pre-shrinking treatment is 80-135°C, and more preferably 130°C.
在上述制备方法中,优选地,所述预缩处理的保温过程的时间为30min。In the above preparation method, preferably, the time of the heat preservation process of the pre-shrinking treatment is 30 minutes.
在上述制备方法中,优选地,该制备方法还包括对坯布进行染色的过程。当对涤纶进行常规染色时,由于染色环境具有一定的温度(一般为130℃),并且织物在缸内会运转5-6个小时,因此,在这个过程中,复丝能够更加充分地收缩,取得比坯布进行水洗预缩等更充分的收缩效果。In the above preparation method, preferably, the preparation method further includes a process of dyeing the gray cloth. When polyester is conventionally dyed, since the dyeing environment has a certain temperature (generally 130°C) and the fabric will run in the vat for 5-6 hours, the multifilament can shrink more fully during this process. Achieve a more sufficient shrinkage effect than washing and pre-shrinking gray fabrics.
本发明所提供的织物及其制备方法通过采用高卷曲收缩变形丝复丝来形成连接层,通过热处理,使连接层纤维分子链的活动性加强,提升连接层纤维的卷曲和弹性回复作用,进而引导织物表层和底层的线圈进一步收缩,提升连接层的蓬松性和稳定性,能够解决空气层面料容易出现的起毛起球和勾丝问题,并且所制备得到的面料具有良好的手感。The fabric and its preparation method provided by the invention form a connecting layer by using multifilament yarns with high crimp and shrinkage deformation. Through heat treatment, the mobility of the fiber molecular chains of the connecting layer is strengthened, and the curl and elastic recovery effects of the connecting layer fibers are improved, thereby It guides the coils on the surface and bottom layers of the fabric to further shrink, improves the fluffiness and stability of the connecting layer, and can solve the problems of pilling and snagging that are prone to occur in air layer fabrics, and the prepared fabric has a good feel.
附图说明Description of the drawings
图1为普通空气层的示意图。Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of an ordinary air layer.
图2为本发明所形成的空气层的示意图。Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the air layer formed by the present invention.
图3为用普通涤纶丝做连接丝的面料的表面状态示意图。Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the surface state of a fabric using ordinary polyester yarn as connecting yarn.
图4为对比样的面料样品的摩擦模拟实验结果。Figure 4 shows the friction simulation experimental results of the comparative fabric sample.
图5为实施例1的面料样品的摩擦模拟实验结果。Figure 5 shows the friction simulation experiment results of the fabric sample of Example 1.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
为了对本发明的技术特征、目的和有益效果有更加清楚的理解,现对本发明的技术方案进行以下详细说明,但不能理解为对本发明的可实施范围的限定。In order to have a clearer understanding of the technical features, purposes and beneficial effects of the present invention, the technical solutions of the present invention are described in detail below, but this should not be understood as limiting the implementable scope of the present invention.
对比例Comparative ratio
当采用普通涤纶丝做连接丝,表层、底层为非热塑性纤维编织时,表层、底层的线圈大小只能通过编织调控,受针距限制大。连接丝常从表层线圈的纵列之间露出,进而引起勾丝或起毛起球的现象,如图3所示。在图3中,方框所示的区域就是线圈纵列的缝隙,连接丝就在这个位置,缝隙越大,连接丝与外部接触的可能性越大,就越引起勾丝,起毛球。When ordinary polyester yarn is used as the connecting yarn, and the surface and bottom layers are knitted with non-thermoplastic fibers, the coil size of the surface and bottom layers can only be controlled by knitting, which is greatly limited by the needle pitch. The connecting wires are often exposed from between the columns of surface coils, causing snagging or fluffing and pilling, as shown in Figure 3. In Figure 3, the area shown by the box is the gap in the coil column, and the connecting wire is at this position. The larger the gap, the greater the possibility of the connecting wire contacting the outside, which will cause snagging and pilling.
实施例1Example 1
本实施例提供了一种抗起球勾丝空气层织物,该织物包括表层、连接层、底层,其中:This embodiment provides an anti-pilling and snagging air layer fabric, which includes a surface layer, a connecting layer, and a bottom layer, wherein:
表层和底层由30S赛络紧密纺棉纱编织而成;The surface and bottom layers are woven from 30S Siro compact cotton yarn;
连接层由高卷曲收缩率长丝编织而成,其中,高卷曲收缩丝采用55D/24F PBT DTY编织,卷曲收缩率为46.5%。The connecting layer is woven from high-crimp-shrinkage filaments. The high-crimp-shrinkage filaments are woven with 55D/24F PBT DTY, with a crimp shrinkage rate of 46.5%.
该抗起球勾丝空气层织物是通过以下方式制备的:The anti-pilling and snagging air layer fabric is prepared in the following manner:
采用18G34英寸双面大圆机,针筒与针盘之间的距离为2.0MM,进纱张力为8cN,该大圆机配置有积极送纱装置的FEED机。上下盘错针排列。第一模上盘全成圈,下盘不编织,喂入30S赛络紧密纺棉纱,送纱量50C=135mm;第二模依次在上下盘集圈,喂入55D/24F PBTDTY,送纱量50C=320mm;第三模上盘不编织,下盘全成圈,喂入30S赛络紧密纺棉纱,送纱量50C=135mm。An 18G34-inch double-sided circular knitting machine is used. The distance between the needle cylinder and the dial is 2.0MM, and the yarn feeding tension is 8cN. The circular knitting machine is equipped with a FEED machine with an active yarn feeding device. The upper and lower plates are arranged in staggered stitches. The upper plate of the first mold is fully looped, and the lower plate is not woven, and 30S Siro compact spinning cotton yarn is fed, and the yarn feed amount is 50C=135mm; the second mold is sequentially looped on the upper and lower plates, and 55D/24F PBTDTY is fed, and the yarn feed amount is 50C=320mm; the upper plate of the third mold is not woven, and the lower plate is fully looped. 30S Siro compact cotton yarn is fed, and the yarn feed amount is 50C=135mm.
织造完成后,坯布经过染色、定型得到成品。其中,染色包括染涤和染棉,其中,染涤前处理工艺采用以下试剂进行:漂白处理剂1.5G/L,渗透剂0.3G/L,建滔50%离子碱2G/L,双氧水3G/L,冰醋酸1G/L;染涤染色工艺采用以下试剂进行:分散染料2%,分散剂1G/L,匀染剂0.25G/L,冰醋酸2G/L,建滔50%离子碱3G/L,保险粉2G/L;其中染涤需在130℃保温30min。染棉前处理工艺采用以下试剂进行:渗透剂0.25G/L;染棉染色工艺采用以下试剂进行:活性染料2%,元明粉70G/L,纯碱20G/L;染棉后处理工艺采用以下试剂进行:皂洗剂0.5G/L,分散剂0.5G/L,固色剂4G/L;After weaving is completed, the gray fabric is dyed and shaped to obtain the finished product. Among them, dyeing includes dyeing polyester and dyeing cotton. Among them, the pre-treatment process of polyester dyeing uses the following reagents: bleaching agent 1.5G/L, penetrant 0.3G/L, Kingboard 50% ionic alkali 2G/L, hydrogen peroxide 3G/ L, glacial acetic acid 1G/L; the polyester dyeing process uses the following reagents: disperse dye 2%, dispersant 1G/L, leveling agent 0.25G/L, glacial acetic acid 2G/L, Jiantao 50% ionic alkali 3G/ L, insurance powder 2G/L; dyeing polyester needs to be kept at 130°C for 30 minutes. The cotton pre-treatment process uses the following reagents: penetrant 0.25G/L; the cotton dyeing process uses the following reagents: reactive dye 2%, Yuanming powder 70G/L, soda ash 20G/L; the cotton post-treatment process uses the following Reagent preparation: soaping agent 0.5G/L, dispersing agent 0.5G/L, fixing agent 4G/L;
对染色后的面料进行定型处理,其中:温度135℃,车速15M/MIN,超喂30%;定型整理液由低温除油剂1G/L、软油75G/L和PH值调节15G/L组成;其中,定前门幅55英寸,成品门幅58英寸,成品定型控制门幅不超过定前门幅的8%;制成的织物手感蓬松,表面紧密,回弹性好。The dyed fabric is subjected to styling treatment, including: temperature 135°C, speed 15M/MIN, overfeeding 30%; styling finishing fluid consists of low-temperature degreasing agent 1G/L, soft oil 75G/L and pH value adjustment 15G/L ; Among them, the fixed front door width is 55 inches, the finished door width is 58 inches, and the finished product setting control door width does not exceed 8% of the fixed front door width; the fabric made has a fluffy feel, a tight surface, and good resilience.
与相同针距、机型编织加工而成的常规涤棉空气层织物的性能对比如表1所示,其中,对比样的常规棉涤空气层织物的表层和底层为棉,连接层为普通涤纶,其他工序与实施例1的空气层织物相同:The performance comparison with conventional polyester-cotton air-layer fabrics woven with the same gauge and machine model is shown in Table 1. The surface and bottom layers of the comparative conventional cotton-polyester air-layer fabrics are cotton, and the connecting layer is ordinary polyester. , other processes are the same as the air layer fabric of Example 1:
表1Table 1
通过以上对比可知,即使采用了赛络紧密纺,对比样的起毛起球性能也只能达到3.5级,无法进一步提升,而采用本发明的技术方案所获得的空气层织物,其起毛起球性能有明显提升,有半级的差异。采用魔术贴勾面贴住织物表面往复摩擦,模拟同时穿着空气层长裤与带魔术贴配件的鞋子的场景,发现普通棉涤空气层出现勾丝,织物被魔术贴勾住而拉起,而本发明的空气层表面没有变化,且未被魔术贴勾面勾住,如图4和图5所示。It can be seen from the above comparison that even if Siro compact spinning is used, the pilling performance of the comparative sample can only reach level 3.5 and cannot be further improved. However, the air layer fabric obtained by using the technical solution of the present invention has a pilling performance There is a significant improvement, a half-level difference. The hook surface of Velcro is applied to the surface of the fabric and rubbed back and forth to simulate the scene of wearing air layer trousers and shoes with Velcro accessories at the same time. It is found that hooks appear in the air layer of ordinary cotton polyester, and the fabric is hooked by Velcro and pulled up. The surface of the air layer of the present invention has no change and is not caught by the hook surface of the Velcro, as shown in Figures 4 and 5.
实施例2Example 2
本实施例提供了一种抗起球勾丝空气层织物,该织物包括表层,连接层、底层,其中:This embodiment provides an anti-pilling and snagging air layer fabric, which fabric includes a surface layer, a connecting layer, and a bottom layer, wherein:
表层和底层由30S赛络紧密纺棉纱编织而成;The surface and bottom layers are woven from 30S Siro compact cotton yarn;
连接层由高卷曲收缩率长丝编织而成,其中,高卷曲收缩丝采用50D/32FPET+PTT双组分DTY编织,卷曲收缩率为38.3%。The connecting layer is woven from high-crimp-shrinkage filaments. The high-crimp-shrinkage filaments are woven with 50D/32FPET+PTT two-component DTY, with a crimp shrinkage rate of 38.3%.
该抗起球勾丝空气层织物是通过以下方式制备的:The anti-pilling and snagging air layer fabric is prepared in the following manner:
采用18G34英寸双面大圆机,针筒与针盘之间的距离为2.0MM,进纱张力为8cN,该大圆机配置有积极送纱装置的FEED机。上下盘错针排列。第一模上盘全成圈,下盘不编织,喂入30S赛络紧密纺棉纱,送纱量50C=135mm;第二模依次在上下盘集圈,喂入50D/32F PET+PTT双组分DTY,送纱量50C=320mm;第三模上盘不编织,下盘全成圈,喂入30S赛络紧密纺棉纱,送纱量50C=135mm。An 18G34-inch double-sided circular knitting machine is used. The distance between the needle cylinder and the dial is 2.0MM, and the yarn feeding tension is 8cN. The circular knitting machine is equipped with a FEED machine with an active yarn feeding device. The upper and lower plates are arranged in staggered stitches. The upper plate of the first mold is fully looped, and the lower plate is not woven, and 30S Siro compact spinning cotton yarn is fed, and the yarn feed amount is 50C=135mm; the second mold is sequentially looped on the upper and lower plates, and fed with 50D/32F PET+PTT double groups Divide into DTY, the yarn feed amount is 50C=320mm; the upper plate of the third mold is not knitted, the lower plate is fully looped, feed 30S Siro compact cotton yarn, the yarn feed amount is 50C=135mm.
织造完成后,坯布经过沸水收缩处理、染色、定型,得到成品。其中,沸水收缩在缸内进行,100℃沸水,保温30min。染色包括染涤和染棉,其中,染涤前处理工艺采用以下试剂进行:漂白处理剂1.5G/L,渗透剂0.3G/L,建滔50%离子碱2G/L,双氧水3G/L,冰醋酸1G/L;染涤染色工艺采用以下试剂进行:分散染料2%,分散剂1G/L,匀染剂0.25G/L,冰醋酸2G/L,建滔50%离子碱3G/L,保险粉2G/L;其中染涤需在130℃保温30min。染棉前处理工艺采用以下试剂进行:渗透剂0.25G/L;染棉染色工艺采用以下试剂进行:活性染料2%,元明粉70G/L,纯碱20G/L;染棉后处理工艺采用以下试剂进行:皂洗剂0.5G/L,分散剂0.5G/L,固色剂4G/L;After weaving is completed, the gray fabric undergoes boiling water shrinkage treatment, dyeing, and shaping to obtain the finished product. Among them, the boiling water shrinkage is carried out in the cylinder, and the water is boiled at 100°C and kept warm for 30 minutes. Dyeing includes dyeing polyester and cotton. Among them, the pre-treatment process of polyester dyeing uses the following reagents: bleaching agent 1.5G/L, penetrant 0.3G/L, Kingboard 50% ionic alkali 2G/L, hydrogen peroxide 3G/L, Glacial acetic acid 1G/L; polyester dyeing process uses the following reagents: disperse dye 2%, dispersant 1G/L, leveling agent 0.25G/L, glacial acetic acid 2G/L, Kingboard 50% ionic alkali 3G/L, Insurance powder 2G/L; dyeing polyester needs to be kept at 130°C for 30 minutes. The cotton pre-treatment process uses the following reagents: penetrant 0.25G/L; the cotton dyeing process uses the following reagents: reactive dye 2%, Yuanming powder 70G/L, soda ash 20G/L; the cotton post-treatment process uses the following Reagent preparation: soaping agent 0.5G/L, dispersing agent 0.5G/L, fixing agent 4G/L;
对染色后的面料进行定型处理,其中:温度135℃,车速15M/MIN,超喂30%;定型整理液由低温除油剂1G/L、软油75G/L和PH值调节15G/L组成;其中,定前门幅55英寸,成品门幅58英寸,成品定型控制门幅不超过定前门幅的8%;制成的织物手感蓬松,表面紧密,回弹性好。The dyed fabric is subjected to styling treatment, including: temperature 135°C, speed 15M/MIN, overfeeding 30%; styling finishing fluid consists of low-temperature degreasing agent 1G/L, soft oil 75G/L and pH value adjustment 15G/L ; Among them, the fixed front door width is 55 inches, the finished door width is 58 inches, and the finished product setting control door width does not exceed 8% of the fixed front door width; the fabric made has a fluffy feel, a tight surface, and good resilience.
本实施例的织物的相关性能测试结果如表2所示:The relevant performance test results of the fabric of this embodiment are shown in Table 2:
表2Table 2
由表2的内容可以看出:实施例2提供的织物具有良好的防勾丝、抗起毛起球性能。It can be seen from the contents of Table 2 that the fabric provided in Example 2 has good anti-snagging and anti-pilling properties.
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