CN115003272A - Composition for caring for keratin materials - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising a fatty acid-ester mixture of a plurality, for example at least 3, 4 or 5 medium-chain fatty acids and a plurality, for example at least 3, 4 or 5 monoesters; at least one anionic surfactant; at least one amphoteric surfactant; and at least one cationic polymer.

Description

Composition for the care of keratinous materials

technical field

The present invention relates to a composition for the care of keratinous materials, especially hair and scalp. The present invention also relates to a method of caring for keratinous material, in particular hair and scalp, using the composition of the present invention.

background

Keratin materials are widely present on human surfaces such as skin, scalp and hair. Many people have long sought to soothe the body surface so that they can feel comfortable in their daily lives and at work. Of these, many are particularly concerned about itching. Various factors can contribute to the itching sensation, such as a high degree of dryness on the body surface, the presence of certain bacteria on the body surface, allergies, external stimuli, or even psychological sensations. Accordingly, in order to address the itching sensation, various products have been developed, many of which are used to relieve the itching sensation. In particular, given a variety of factors, it is often more feasible and meaningful to relieve the pruritus than a therapeutic approach that directly addresses these factors.

Among the keratinous materials on the body surface, the scalp is particularly susceptible to itching. Various formulations have been developed for itchy scalps, including those provided in stand-alone form, such as lotions, sprays, etc., as well as incorporated into conventional products for hair and/or scalp, such as shampoos, leave-in and/or Or those in rinse-off conditioners.

Cleans and treats keratin fibers, especially hair, to improve its appearance, color, style, and more. Various cleansing and/or conditioning components are therefore added directly to the shampoo. Since the scalp and hair substantially overlap, the scalp conditioning component can also be added to the shampoo, such that by shampooing, the scalp conditioning component is also applied to the scalp. Anti-dandruff components have been added to shampoos; however, there is still a need for successful anti-itch components to be added to shampoos due to the complex causes of itching sensations.

Furthermore, in addition to cleaning and conditioning functions, several other properties are important to attract consumers, eg, special fragrance and good appearance. For example, some consumers prefer a transparent look.

On the other hand, for cosmetic applications, natural ingredients, ie ingredients of natural origin, are of great interest to consumers. A number of compounds of natural origin are used to formulate care compositions for keratinous materials. Efforts have been made to formulate compositions containing natural ingredients.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In the medical sciences, medium-chain fatty acids and their respective corresponding monoglycerides have been disclosed to have broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against enveloped viruses and various bacteria in vitro (Kabara, 1978; Shibasaki and Kato, 1978; Welsh et al. 1979; Thormar et al., 1987; Isaacs et al. 1995), including but not limited to human pathogens such as herpes simplex virus, Candida albicans, Chlamydia trachomatis, Neisseria gonorrhoeae, Helicobacter pylori, and Staphylococcus aureus . The present inventors have now found that the use of various, eg at least 3, 4 or 5 medium chain fatty acids and fatty acid-ester mixtures of monoesters of respective medium chain fatty acids with lower polyols enables to obtain combinations for the care of keratinous materials A substance that non-therapeutic soothes the itching sensation that occurs on keratinous materials, especially on the scalp.

A subject of the present invention is therefore a composition for the care and/or cleaning of keratinous materials, comprising:

Multiple, eg, at least 3, 4, or 5 medium chain fatty acids and multiple, eg, at least 3, 4, or 5 monoester fatty acid-ester mixtures; and

at least one anionic surfactant;

at least one amphoteric surfactant; and

at least one cationic polymer.

The compositions according to the invention are particularly useful in shampoo products.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid-ester mixture is a derivative of coconut oil known as activated virgin coconut oil (AVCO).

The inventors have further surprisingly found that certain solubilizers, preferably non-ionic surfactants, can be beneficial for the compositions of the present invention to have a clear appearance, especially in the form of clear shampoo products.

The present invention also relates to a method of soothing the itching sensation of keratinous materials, especially keratinous materials on the body surface, especially the scalp, using the anti-itch composition according to the invention.

The present invention thus provides the use of the compositions of the present invention for soothing the itching sensation of keratinous materials.

The present invention also provides the use of fatty acid-ester mixtures for soothing the itchiness of keratinous materials on body surfaces, especially the scalp.

Notably, as described above, although medium-chain fatty acids and their monoglycerides are known to have antimicrobial activity, various factors can contribute to the itching sensation. The compositions of the present invention have been found and have also been experimentally shown to be successful in relieving itching sensations. Without being bound by any known theory, it is believed that successful use of the compositions of the present invention to relieve itching contributes, at least in part, to the sensory relaxation of the compositions of the present invention to keratinous materials. Therefore, the compositions of the present invention are limited to non-therapeutic uses, although further properties and/or mechanisms for their therapeutic use may be discovered in the future.

Embodiments of the present invention

Throughout the specification, including the claims, unless stated otherwise, the term "comprising one" should be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one." Also, the phrase "at least one" as used in this specification is equivalent to the phrase "one or more."

Throughout the specification, including the claims, embodiments defined by "comprising" and the like should be understood to encompass preferred embodiments defined by "consisting essentially of" and preferred embodiments defined by "consisting of."

Except in the working examples or where otherwise stated, all numbers indicating component amounts and/or reaction conditions should be understood to be modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning in the 10th of the indicated number % (eg, "about 10%" refers to 9%-11%, and about "2%" refers to 1.8%-2.2%).

Throughout the specification, including the claims, "keratinous material" according to the invention is skin, hair, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes. Preferably, the keratinous material according to the invention is a site where itching is easily felt, eg the scalp or skin, and/or where it is affected, eg the hair.

Throughout the specification, including the claims, "care" and the like should be understood in accordance with the present invention to include any means of maintaining, maintaining or improving the condition of keratinous materials, not only routine care of keratinous materials such as skin or scalp Means, also include any means known to be useful for conditioning and/or cleansing keratinous material, such as hair or scalp.

In this application, contents, parts and percentages are by weight unless explicitly mentioned otherwise.

The present invention relates to a composition for the care of keratin material, comprising:

(A) a fatty acid-ester mixture comprising:

(A-I). A fatty acid component comprising a plurality, such as at least 3, 4 or 5 medium chain fatty acids, and

(A-II). An ester component comprising a plurality of, eg, at least 3, 4 or 5 monoesters of medium chain fatty acids; and

(B) at least one anionic surfactant;

(C) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and

(D) at least one cationic polymer.

Preferably, the monoesters of the ester component (A-II) are obtained from the esterification of the medium chain fatty acids used in the component (A-I) with lower polyols, respectively.

Preferably, the fatty acid-ester mixture is a derivative of coconut oil known as activated virgin coconut oil (AVCO).

The present invention therefore provides the use of a composition of the present invention for soothing the itching sensation of keratinous material on the body surface, especially the scalp.

The present invention also provides the use of fatty acid-ester mixtures for soothing the itchiness of keratinous materials on body surfaces, especially the scalp.

The present invention also relates to a method of soothing the itching sensation of keratinous materials, especially keratinous materials on the body surface, especially the scalp, using the anti-itch composition according to the invention.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent on reading the following specification and examples.

Fatty acid-ester mixture (A)

The composition of the present invention comprises a fatty acid-ester mixture (A) of various, eg at least 3, 4 or 5 medium chain fatty acids and monoesters of each medium chain fatty acid and a lower polyol.

Useful fatty acids which can be used as component (A-I) according to the invention are medium chain fatty acids, such as monocarboxylic acids preferably having 6 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms. Accordingly, useful fatty acids may have formula (I):

R-C(O)-OH(I)

in:

R represents linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₅ -C ₁₉ , preferably C ₇ -C ₁₅ , more preferably C ₇ -C ₁₁ hydrocarbyl, preferably alkyl; preferably, R is a linear group; more preferably Typically, R is straight chain alkyl.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, R preferably has an odd number, eg 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17 or 19 carbon atoms. More preferably, R has 7, 9, 11, 13 or 15 carbon atoms; or preferably, R has 7, 9 or 11 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the medium chain fatty acids may be used alone or as a combination of two or more fatty acids. Preferably, the medium chain fatty acids are used as a combination of at least 3, 4 or 5 fatty acids.

The fatty acids usable according to the invention can preferably be at least partially esterified with polyols.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the monoester that can be used as component (A-II) is a monoester of formula (II):

R-C(O)-OR’ (II)

in:

R is as defined in formula (I).

R' represents a residue from a polyol. Useful polyols contain in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

Preferably, fatty acids according to formula (I) include caprylic acid (C8, also known as caprylic acid), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16) ), stearic acid (C18) or arachidic acid (C20).

More preferably, in formula (II), R and R' are different from each other, wherein R represents a linear C7 _{- C15} alkyl group, and R' represents a residue from a linear polyol containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms. base.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, fatty acids according to formula (I) are preferably used in combination with monoesters according to formula (II) to form fatty acid-ester mixtures (A). Preferably, the fatty acid and monoester used in mixture (A) relate to the same fatty acid moiety, ie the fatty acid of formula (I) and the monoester of formula (II) have corresponding R groups. That is, if a fatty acid of formula (I) having an octyl group as R, i.e. octanoic acid, is used, then a monoester of formula (II) having an octyl group as R, i.e. octanoic acid monoester is used to form a fatty acid-ester mixture ( A). Furthermore, if two or more fatty acids are simultaneously used in mixture (A), the corresponding two or more monoesters each having the same fatty acid moiety are used. In other words, according to one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid-ester mixture (A) can be regarded as a mixture of two or more fatty acids of formula (I) and partially esterified monoesters of each fatty acid.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid-ester mixture (A) comprises a plurality, for example at least 3, 4 or 5 fatty acids of formula (I) and fatty acids having corresponding R groups identical to the fatty acids of formula (I), respectively Monoesters of formula (II). Corresponding to the fatty acid moiety, the same polyol is preferably used to form the monoester. That is, for the two or more monoesters of formula (II) used in the fatty acid-ester mixture (A), they have the same R' group. Of these, glycerol is used in particular to form glycerol esters with the various corresponding fatty acids mentioned above.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, the fatty acid-ester mixture (A) comprises at least 3 fatty acids selected from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic and arachidic acid for use as Component (A-I). Meanwhile, the corresponding monoester of each fatty acid in component (A-I) was used as component (A-II). Preferably, the monoesters of components (A-II) are each glycerides.

Preferably, according to one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid component (A-I) comprises caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid. Meanwhile, the corresponding component (A-II) contains glyceryl caprylate (also known as monocaprylin), glyceryl caprylate (also known as monocaprin), and glyceryl laurate (Also called monolaurin).

According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, with respect to the fatty acid-ester mixture (A), the total amount of fatty acids of component (A-I) and the total amount of monoesters, such as glycerides of component (A-II), are in the order of 4 :1 to 1:1, preferably 3:1 to 1:1, more preferably 2.5:1 to 1.5:1 are present in a ratio.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, the fatty acid-ester mixture (A) can be obtained by direct partial esterification of the fatty acid component (A-I) with a polyol to form a monoester, thereby obtaining the fatty acid and as the ester component (A) - a mixture of the corresponding monoesters of II). When polyols are used, it is well known that polyesters such as diesters, triesters and the like may eventually be formed. Accordingly, fatty acid-ester mixtures (A) comprising at least 3 fatty acids, monoesters corresponding to said at least 3 fatty acids and polyesters corresponding to said at least 3 medium chain fatty acids can still be used in the present invention, as long as they are not Significantly impairs the main purpose, especially the antipruritic effect.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyester" refers to esters formed by the esterification of polyols in which more than one hydroxyl group of the polyol molecule is esterified. Correspondingly, "diester" and "triester" according to the present invention refer to the esterification of the two and three hydroxyl groups of the polyol molecule, respectively.

For example, when fatty acid component (A-I) is esterified with glycerol, useful fatty acid-ester mixtures (A) may comprise at least 3 fatty acids, mono-, diester and triesters corresponding to said at least 3 fatty acids. For example, a useful fatty acid-ester mixture (A) may comprise caprylic, capric and lauric acids as components (A-I); glycerol monocaprylate, glyceryl monocaprate and glyceryl monolaurate as components (A-II) ); and di- and triglycerides of caprylic, capric, and lauric acids.

When the fatty acid-ester mixture (A) further comprises a polyester, the content of the polyester is not particularly limited as long as it does not significantly impair the main purpose of the mixture (A), especially the antipruritic effect. For example, the polyester may be used in mixture (A) in an amount of up to 90 wt%, preferably 80 wt% or less, or preferably 70 wt% or less, or preferably 65 wt% or less.

AVCO

According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, the fatty acid-ester mixture (A) may be of natural origin. Of these, coconut oil is known to contain a mixture of various C8-C20 fatty acids, especially those with an even number of carbon atoms. Therefore, it is desirable for the present invention to use derivatives of coconut oil, eg, esterification products of coconut oil, as fatty acid-ester mixture (A).

Among them, the available coconut oil derivative is the one known as Activated Virgin Coconut Oil (AVCO). Preferably, coconut oil is esterified with glycerol. AVCOs usable according to the invention may comprise caprylic, capric and lauric acids as components (A-I); glycerol monocaprylate, glyceryl monocaprate and glyceryl monolaurate as components (A-II).

According to one embodiment of the invention, for example, the total amount of fatty acids of component (A-I) and the total amount of monoglycerides of component (A-II) are in the range of 4:1 to 1:1, preferably AVCO, as usable A ratio of 3:1 to 1:1, more preferably 2.5:1 to 1.5:1 is present. More specifically, for example, in Exemplary Embodiment 1 of AVCO, a useful AVCO may comprise: fatty acid component (A-I): an amount of 5-20 wt %, preferably 7-15 wt % or preferably 8-10 wt % Caprylic acid in an amount of 1-10% by weight, preferably 2-8% by weight or preferably 4-7% by weight; and 20-70% by weight, preferably 30-60% by weight or preferably 40-55% by weight lauric acid; and the monoester component (A-II): 0.5-15% by weight, preferably 1-10% by weight or preferably 4-7% by weight of glycerol monocaprylate; 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1 - 8% by weight or preferably 3-5% by weight of glyceryl monolaurate; and 10-40% by weight, preferably 15-35% by weight or preferably 20-30% by weight of glyceryl monolaurate; each Relative to the total amount of fatty acid component (A-I) and monoester component (A-II).

The AVCO obtained from the esterification of coconut oil may further comprise diglycerides and triglycerides in addition to the fatty acid component (A-I) and the monoester component (A-II) described above. According to one embodiment of the invention, for example, a useful AVCO may comprise caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid as components (A-I); glycerol monocaprylate, glyceryl monocaprate and glyceryl monolaurate as component (A) -II); and optionally, di- and triglycerides of caprylic, capric, and lauric acids.

When the AVCO further comprises a polyester selected from diglycerides and triglycerides, the content of the polyester is not particularly limited, for example, up to 90% by weight, preferably 80% by weight or less, or preferably 70% by weight or less , or preferably in an amount of 65% by weight or less.

According to one embodiment of the invention, for example, a useful AVCO may comprise: a fatty acid group comprising caprylic, capric and lauric acids in an amount of 5-40% by weight, preferably 10-30% by weight or preferably 20-25% by weight Part (A-I); Monoester component comprising glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monocaprate and glycerol monolaurate in an amount of 1-30% by weight, preferably 5-20% by weight or preferably 10-15% by weight (A-II); 10-50% by weight, preferably 20-45% by weight or preferably 30-40% by weight of diglycerides of caprylic, capric and lauric acids in total; and 10-70% by weight, preferably 15 Caprylic, capric and lauric triglycerides in a total amount of 50% by weight or preferably 20-30% by weight; each relative to the total amount of AVCO.

Useful AVCOs may preferably be AVCOs prepared according to the teachings of EP 1973415, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. Accordingly, an exemplary AVCO may comprise: 24.63 mg/g caprylic acid (C8), 17.81 mg/g capric acid (C10), 133.70 mg/g lauric acid (C12) and 11.82 mg/g monocaprylic acid glyceride, 8.29 mg/g glyceryl monocaprate and 57.16 mg/g glyceryl monolaurate; or 23.10 mg/g caprylic acid (C8), 16.08 mg/g capric acid (C10), 116.81 mg/g lauric acid (C12) and 16.04 mg/g monocaprylic, 10.35 mg/g monocapric, and 75.54 mg/g monolaurin; each relative to the total weight of AVCO; preferably, AVCO is derived from 1,3-specific fat Enzymes catalyze coconut oil and subject it to glycerolysis.

The fatty acid-ester mixture (A) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, or preferably 0.3 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. in the composition.

Anionic Surfactant (B)

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the non-therapeutic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant (B).

The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean an amphiphilic compound having a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic part, wherein the hydrophilic part carries only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups, with usually a metal (alkali metal) , such as Na or K) or ammonium as a cationic counterion, which can dissociate in aqueous solution to give an anion.

More particularly, the anionic groups of the anionic surfactant are selected from: C(O)OH, -C(O)O ^- , -SO ₃ H, -S(O) ₂ O ^- , -OS(O) ₂ OH , -OS(O) ₂ O ^- , -P(O)OH ₂ , -P(O) ₂ O ^- , -P(O)O ₂ ^- , -P(OH) ₂ , =P(O)OH , -P(OH)O ^- , =P(O)O ^- , =POH, =PO ^- , cationic counterions are usually selected from alkali metals, such as sodium, or alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium, or organic cationic counterions, such as ammonium salt, amine salt or aminoalkoxide. Surfactants can also be present in their acid form.

As anionic surfactants, mention may be made of carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfoacetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, sarcosinate, glutamate, lactyl lactate Or taurate anionic group surfactants, fatty acid salts, salts of galactosiduronic acids, ether carboxylate surfactants and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the anionic surfactants according to the present invention are selected from:

(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates or Monoglyceride sulfates; for anionic surfactants of this type, preference is given to using (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates or mixtures. Mention may be made of the sulfates of ethers of lauryl alcohol and alkylene oxides containing 1 to 50 alkylene oxide groups.

More preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from the sulfate salts of ethers of lauryl alcohol and alkylene oxide containing 1 to 4 alkylene oxide groups, especially ethylene oxide groups. For example, Cognis (BASF) under the name Texapon ^® AOS 225 UP, Rhodia under the name Rhodapex ^® esb-70/fla3 and Clariant under the name Genapol ^® LRO L'O have an average of 2.2 ethylene oxide groups. sodium laureth sulfate, and sodium laureth sulfate containing an average of 1 ethylene oxide group sold under the name SLES (N1EO) by Zhejiang Zanyu Technology.

· (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfonates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl amide sulfonates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, Paraffin sulfonate;

(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl phosphates;

· (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates or (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl amido sulfosuccinates Salt;

(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkylsulfoacetates;

(C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acyl sarcosinates;

(C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acyl glutamate;

(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic acid ethers;

(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates;

· (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfosuccinamate salts;

(C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acyl isethionates, such as sodium lauroylmethyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate; mention may be made of Innospec Active Chemicals under the trade name ^ISELUX® Sodium lauroylmethyl isethionate sold by LQ-CLR-SB;

N-[( _C6 - _C24 )acyl]taurine salt;

salts of fatty acids;

(C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) acyl lactyl lactylates;

salts of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl-D-galacturonic acids;

Salts of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl polyoxyalkylene ether carboxylic acids, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkylaryl polyoxyalkylene ether carboxylic acids or (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl Salts of amidopolyoxyalkylene ether carboxylic acids;

· and their mixtures.

The alkyl or acyl group of these various anionic surfactants preferably contains 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Furthermore, the oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated anionic surfactant preferably contains 1 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, more preferably 1 to 4 alkylene oxide groups, especially ethylene oxide groups.

Advantageously, according to one embodiment, the present invention comprises selected from the group consisting of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl amido ethers At least one anionic surfactant of sulfate, alkylaryl polyether sulfate, monoglyceride sulfate, ( _C6 - _C24 )acyl isethionate, or mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant is preferably selected from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauroylmethyl isethionate, sodium coco isethionate or mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant is sodium laureth sulfate containing an average of 2.2 ethyleneoxy groups.

According to a particularly exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the composition may be free of any sulfates used as anionic surfactants.

The at least one anionic surfactant (B) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 1% to 30%, such as 5% to 20%, or 10% to 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition , including all ranges and subranges between them.

Amphoteric Surfactant (C)

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the non-therapeutic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant (C), which may also be referred to as zwitterionic surfactant.

The one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants useful in the present invention may be quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary containing at least one anionic group such as carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate Amine derivatives, and wherein the aliphatic group or at least one aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Among the optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives which can be used as defined above, mention may also be made of compounds of the respective structures (III) and (IV) as follows:

In formula (III):

R ₄ represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl, or heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group derived from the acid R ₄ -C(O)-OH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil;

R ₅ represents β-hydroxyethyl; and

R ₆ represents carboxymethyl;

and

in:

· A stands for -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX';

A' stands for -(CH ₂ )z-Y', where z = 1 or 2;

·X' represents the group -CH ₂ -C(O)-OH, -CH ₂ -C(O)-OZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ -C(O)-OH, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -C (O)-OZ', or a hydrogen atom;

Y' represents -C(O)-OH, -C(O)-OZ' or the group -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ H or -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ Z';

Z' represents ions derived from alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; ammonium ions; or from organic amines, especially from amino alcohols, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropylamine Alcoholamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl) Aminomethane ion,

R ₇ represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R ₇ C(O)-OH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially a C ₁₇ group and its congeners type, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

Mention may be made, for example, of alkali metals such as sodium N-cocamidocarboxymethylglycinate, or, for example, the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name ^Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia.

Mention may be made in particular of betaine surfactants, such as (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)amido(C ₂ -C ₈ alkyl)betaines and (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)amido(C ₂ -C ₈ alkyl) sulfobetaines.

Of all the above-mentioned amphoteric surfactants, preference is given to using cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoyl betaine and N-cocamidocarboxymethyl glycinate of alkali metals such as sodium.

According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the above-mentioned amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine or cocoyl betaine.

The at least one amphoteric surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 1% to 20%, such as 2% to 15%, or 3% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition, including All scopes and subscopes in between.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the surfactant preferably comprises a combination of an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant. More preferably, the surfactants of the present invention contain a combination of a sulfate anionic surfactant and a betaine surfactant, such as a combination of sodium laureth sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine. Without being bound by any known theory, it is believed that such a combination may be particularly beneficial to the cleansing power of the shampoo, especially when the fatty acid-ester mixture (A) is incorporated for antipruritic effect.

Cationic polymer (D)

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise optionally at least one cationic polymer.

The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer that contains cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. Preferred cationic polymers are selected from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which may form part of the polymer backbone or may be carried by pendant substituents directly attached thereto.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:

(1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylates or methacrylates or amides and comprising at least one unit of the formula:

in:

- R' ₃ , which may be the same or different, refers to a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ group;

- A, which may be the same or different, represents a straight-chain or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R' ₄ , R' ₅ and R' ₆ , which may be the same or different, represent an alkyl or benzyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- _R'1 and _R'2 , which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

- X refers to an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methylsulfate, or a halide, such as chloride or bromide.

Copolymers of class (1) may also contain one or more compounds derived from acrylamides which may be selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamide substituted on nitrogen by _C1 - _C4 alkyl, and methyl units of comonomers based on acrylamide, acrylic or methacrylic acid or esters thereof, vinyl lactams such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam and vinyl esters.

(2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and cationic galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers and cationic galactomannan gums.

Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in French Patent 1 492 597 and mention may be made of the Amerchol company as Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 or LR 30M) as polymers sold under the name. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have been reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are particularly described in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, and mention may be made of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, Aminopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium or hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium salts such as 2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride grafted hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl cellulose. Commodities corresponding to this definition are more particularly those sold by the company NationalStarch under the names Celquat ^® L 200 and Celquat ^® H 100, or hydroxyethylcellulose-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride ether (INCI name : Polyquaternium-10) such as those sold by KCI under the name Polyquta ^® 400KC.

Cationic galactomannan gums are more particularly described in US Pat. Nos. 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, mention may be made of guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethyl chloride Ammonium. Use eg guar modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (eg chloride). Such products are sold in particular by the company Rhodia under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162.

(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and containing a linear or branched divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by an aromatic or heterocyclic ring, and Oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.

(4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides made by polycondensation of acidic compounds and polyamines; these polyaminoamides can be combined with epihalohydrin, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, diunsaturated derivatives , dihalohydrin, bisazetidinium (bisazetidinium), dihaloacyldiamine or alkyl dihalide cross-linking, or with dihalohydrin, diazetidinium, dihaloacyl dihalide Oligomer crosslinking resulting from the reaction of amines, alkyl dihalides, epihalohydrin, diepoxides, or di-unsaturated derivatives of reacted bifunctional compounds; A ratio of 0.025 to 0.35 moles is used; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated, or they can be quaternized if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions.

(5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers, wherein the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably means methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the names Cartaretine ^® F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

(6) By a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 3 to 8 carbon atoms The polymer obtained by the reaction of the acid; the molar ratio of polyalkylene polyamine to dicarboxylic acid is preferably 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide and epichlorohydrin are preferably 0.5:1 to 1.8:1: A molar ratio of 1 epichlorohydrin/polyaminoamide secondary amine group was reacted. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or, in the case of adipic acid/glycidyl/diethylenetriamine copolymers, under the names PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules .

(7) Cyclized polymers of alkyldiallylamines or dialkyldiallylammoniums, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising units corresponding to formula (PI) or (PII) as the main constituent of the chain Object:

in:

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum of k + t is equal to 1;

- R ₁₂ means a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

- R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of each other, refer to an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group wherein the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C ₁ -C ₄ amidoalkyl group; or R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ may together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached represent a heterocyclic group, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ independently of each other preferably mean an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

^-Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

(8) Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of the formula:

in:

- R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , which may be the same or different, represent aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or araliphatic groups or C _1-4 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic groups containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms group, or R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ together or individually, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, form a heterocycle optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ represent straight or branched chain C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl substituted with nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR ₁₇ -D or -CO-NH-R ₁₇ -D groups, wherein R ₁₇ is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

- A ₁ and B ₁ represent divalent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain connections attached to the main chain or inserted into the main chain one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups of

- X ^- means an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

It is understood that A ₁ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₅ may together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached form a piperazine ring.

Furthermore, if A ₁ refers to a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B ₁ may also refer to (CH ₂ ) _n -CO-D-OC-(CH ₂ ) _n - group, where D refers to:

a) Diol residues of the formula -OZO-, wherein Z refers to a straight or branched chain hydrocarbon group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x -CH _{2 -CH2-} and -[ _CH2 -CH( _CH3 )-O] _y - _CH2 -CH( _CH3 )-, where x and y refer to integers from 1 to 4 representing a defined and unitary degree of polymerization , or any number from 1 to 4 representing the average degree of polymerization;

b) di-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives;

c) Bi-primary diamine residues of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y refers to a straight or branched chain hydrocarbon group or a divalent group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH _2- ;

d) ureido groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

(9) Polyquaternium polymers comprising units of formula (PV):

in:

- R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p OH group, where p is equal to 0 or an integer from 1 to 6, provided that R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

- r and s, which may be the same or different, are integers from 1 to 6,

- q is equal to 0 or an integer from 1 to 34,

- X ^- refers to an anion, such as a halide ion,

- A refers to a dihalo group or preferably represents _{-CH2 - CH2} -O- _CH2 -CH2-.

Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as those sold by the company BASF under the names Luviquat® FC905, FC 550 and FC 370.

(11) Polyamines, such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is mentioned in the CTFA dictionary as polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine.

(12) Polymers comprising in their structure:

(a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A):

(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to the following formula (B):

In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

These cationic polymers are preferably selected from 5 to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B) in their structure, preferably 10 to 100 mol % Mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90 mol % of polymer corresponding to units of formula (B).

These polymers are obtainable, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.

The cationic charge density of these polymers can be from 2 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g, more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.

Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are especially sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for example, without limitation, as Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

Other cationic polymers useful in the present invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolyzates, polyeneimines, especially polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamines and epichlorides Condensates of alcohols, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from those of class (2) mentioned above. Cationic polymers useful in the compositions of the present invention may comprise quaternized hydroxyalkyl cellulose, such as quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose. Useful polymers may be those under the INCI names Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-37, and the like.

The cationic polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight of one or more cationic polymers, preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, or preferably 0.3 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition middle.

solvent

The compositions according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more solvents, such as water and/or organic solvents, in adjuvant (B).

water

The compositions according to the invention may advantageously contain water in various amounts. For example, water is used in an amount greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The water content in the low viscosity composition according to the present invention is preferably 40 to 90% by weight, more preferably 50 to 85% by weight, or 60 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Organic solvents

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more organic solvents, preferably water-soluble organic solvents (water solubility at 25°C and atmospheric pressure greater than or equal to 5%).

Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched and preferably saturated monohydric alcohols or glycols containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, hexanediol (2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol), neopentyl and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butanediol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenethyl alcohol; polyvalent alcohols containing more than two hydroxyl functions Alcohols, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C ₁ - _C4 -alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as mixtures.

When present, the organic solvent may constitute from 0% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, or from 0.3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. According to one embodiment of the present invention, alcohols, in particular polyols, are not intentionally added to the compositions of the present invention as organic solvents. For example, the composition according to the present invention may be free of any polyols. As another example, a polyol may be added to act as a wetting agent, but it may also act as a solvent, where the polyol is not intentionally added as a solvent in any way.

Solubilizer/Nonionic Surfactant

The composition according to the invention may preferably have a transparent appearance. Accordingly, it is preferred to incorporate the fatty acid-ester mixture (A), in particular AVCO, in the oil phase of the oil-in-water (O/W) microemulsion. Accordingly, the solubilizer is preferably contained in the aqueous phase. For good suspension of the oil phase, the solubilizer is preferably a nonionic surfactant or a mixture thereof, more preferably a complex of solubilizers. As solubilizers, especially for oil-in-water microemulsions, the above-mentioned water-soluble organic solvents, eg alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol, etc., can be used as solubilizers, especially for the complex.

Among the nonionic surfactants usable according to the invention, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of fatty alcohols, alpha-diols and alkylphenols, these three types of compounds being oxyalkylated, such as polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated and contain aliphatic chains containing, for example, 6 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of alkylene oxides, such as ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups, may in particular be 2 to 50, and/or the number of glycerol groups may in particular be from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; preferably polyethoxylated fatty amides having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, Polyglycerolated fatty acid amides containing on average 1 to 5, especially 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid sorbitan esters containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyglycerols Fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides, such as (C10-C14) alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.

The nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from:

(poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols;

Glycerated fatty alcohols;

• Alkyl polyglycosides.

Wherein "aliphatic chain" refers to a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbyl chain comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

Regarding alkyl polyglycosides or APGs, these compounds are well known to those skilled in the art.

These compounds are more particularly represented by the following general formula:

In formula (XI):

Ø R ₁ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear and branched alkyl and/or alkenyl group containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group, wherein the linear or branched alkyl group contains 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

Ø R ₂ represents an alkylene group containing about 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

o G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

Ø a refers to a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, and

Ø b refers to a value from 1 to 15.

Preferred alkyl polyglycosides useful in the compositions of the present invention are those wherein R ₁ more particularly represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, a represents a value from 0 to 3, More particularly equal to 0, and G may represent glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably a compound of formula (XI) of glucose.

The degree of polymerization, ie the value of b in formula (I), may be 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly 1 to 2, still more preferably 1.1 to 1.5.

The glycosidic bonds between sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably the 1-4 type.

Representative of the compounds of formula (I) are in particular the products sold by Cognis under the names Plantaren ^® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare ^® (818, 1200 and 2000). Octyl/decyl glucoside products sold by Seppic under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix ^® NS 10), products sold by BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or Chem Products sold by Y under the name AG10 LK.

It is also possible to use, for example, a C8- _C16 alkyl 1,4-polyglucoside sold as a 53% aqueous solution by Cognis under the name ^Plantacare® ₈₁₈ UP.

With regard to mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably comprise on average 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly 1 to 10 glycerol groups, especially 1.5 to 5.

Monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated surfactants are preferably selected from compounds of the formula:

R''O[CH ₂ CH(CH ₂ OH)O] _m H,

R''O[CH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ O] _m H or

R''O[CH(CH ₂ OH)CH ₂ O] _m H;

In these formulas:

R'' represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms; m is 1 to 30, preferably 1 to 10, more particularly is an integer from 1.5 to 6; R'' may optionally contain heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R'' may optionally contain one or more hydroxyl and/or ether and/or amide groups. R'' preferably denotes a monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated _C10 - _C20 alkyl and/or alkenyl group.

For example, polyglycerolated (3.5 mol) hydroxylauryl ethers sold by Chimex under the name ^Chimexane® NF can be used.

The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols suitable for carrying out the present invention are more particularly selected from alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular by a or multiple (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl substitutions. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The one or more (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably have the following formula (XII):

in

- R ₃ represents a straight-chain or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and

- c is an integer from 1 to 200 inclusive, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 8 to 30, such as 20.

(Poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols, more particularly fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE). Among these, mention may be made more particularly of lauryl alcohol 2 OE, lauryl alcohol 3 OE, decyl alcohol 3 OE, decyl alcohol 5 OE and oleyl alcohol 20 OE.

Mixtures of these (poly)oxyethylated fatty alcohols can also be used.

Among the nonionic surfactants, preference is given to using _C6 - _C24 alkyl polyglucosides and (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols, more particularly _C6 - _C16 alkyl polyglucosides.

According to the invention, the composition may comprise at least one fatty acid ester of glycerol and/or fatty acid ester of polyglycerol for use as a nonionic surfactant, which is different from the fatty acid-ester mixture (A) which can be used according to the invention ) of the ester.

According to a preferred embodiment, the one or more fatty acid esters of polyglycerol are selected from polyglycerols comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably 3 to 10 glycerol units and at least one comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably Esters obtained from the reaction of fatty acids of 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Fatty acids containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms may be straight chain or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

Fatty acids may be selected from oleic, stearic, isostearic, lauric, palmitic, myristic, linoleic, capric and caprylic acids, or mixtures thereof.

The fatty acid esters of polyglycerols can be selected from the group consisting of monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to using esters with a low degree of esterification, such as fatty acid mono-, di- or triesters of polyglycerol, or mixtures. The fatty acid esters of polyglycerols may be in the form of mixtures of esters having a low degree of esterification, for example mixtures of mono- and diesters or mixtures of mono-, diesters and triesters.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid esters of polyglycerols are selected from polyglycerols comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units and at least one fatty acid comprising 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid or linolenic acid Esters obtained from the reaction of oleic acid.

Mention may be made in particular of polyglycerol-2 distearate, sold in particular by NIHON EMULSION under the name Emalex PGSA; polyglycerol-10 tenstearate, sold in particular by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-1810S; Glyceryl oleate, especially sold by COGNIS under the name Monomuls 90-O 18; Glyceryl stearate, especially sold by COGNIS under the name Cutina GMS V; Polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, especially by TAIYO KAGAKU is sold under the name Sunsoft A-186E; Polyglycerol-10 Pentaoleate, especially by TAIYO KAGAKU as Sunsoft Q-175S; Polyglycerol-10 Pentastearate, especially by TAIYO KAGAKU as Sunsoft Q-175S Sold under the name Sunsoft Q-185S; Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, especially by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT as Isolan GI 34; Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, especially Sold under the name Isolan PDI by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT; Polyglycerol-2 Oleate, especially by TAIYO KAGAKU as Sunsoft Q-17B; Polyglycerol-5 Trimyristate, especially by TAIYOKAGAKU as Sunsoft A- 143E; polyglycerol-2 caprylate, especially by TAIYO KAGAKU as Sunsoft Q-81B; polyglycerol-2 laurate, especially by TAIYO KAGAKU as Sunsoft Q-12D.

According to a particular embodiment, fatty acids suitable for reaction with one or more esters of polyglycerol comprise at least one hydroxyl group. This is the case with ricinoleic acid. Mention may be made in particular of polyglycerol-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, sold in particular by CRODA under the name Arlacel 1690, polyglycerol-3 ricinoleate, especially by AARHUKARLSHAMN under the name Arlacel 1690 Sold under the name Akoline PGPR.

According to another embodiment, fatty acids suitable for reaction with one or more esters of polyglycerol are polyacids comprising at least one hydroxyl group.

Examples of useful nonionic surfactants may thus include polyols and esters of fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing, for example, 18 to 24 carbon atoms, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. containing oxyethylenated and/or Derivatives of oxypropylene units, such as glycerides of C8- _C24 fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; polyethylene glycol esters of _C8 - _{C24 fatty} acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; _C8 - Sorbitan esters of C ₂₄ fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; Sorbitan esters of fatty acids (C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acid esters), and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkyl glucose) esters, and their oxyalkylene derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

The at least one nonionic surfactant may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.2% to 20%, such as 1% to 15%, or 2% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition, All ranges and subranges between them are included.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, a complex of solubilizers is used to improve oil suspension in micelles and to enhance the clarity of shampoo products. Complexes of at least one of the above-mentioned nonionic surfactants and the above-mentioned alcohols which can be used as organic solvents are preferred. For example, in clear shampoos containing sulfate surfactants, an effective solubilizer complex may contain 0.1-8% octyl/decyl glucoside and 0.1-3.5% alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition, In clear shampoos without sulfate surfactants, an effective solubilizer complex may contain 3-6% sorbitan polyoxyethylene (20) ether laurate and 2-4.5% alcohol.

Additional additives

According to various embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are used for application to keratinous materials, such as skin, scalp or hair. According to these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may contain various ingredients conventionally available for care compositions for keratinous materials, such as active ingredients, moisturizing agents, additional fatty substances, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, anti-hair loss agents and/or hair regrowth agents, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, sunscreens, chelating agents, plasticizers, acidulants, opacifiers, pearlescent or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, Fragrance and preservatives.

A non-exhaustive list of these ingredients can be found in US Patent Application Publication 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Further examples of such additional ingredients can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th Edition 2002).

One skilled in the art will take care to select optional additional additives and/or their amounts such that the additions considered do not or substantially not adversely affect the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention.

These additives can be widely selected by those skilled in the art to prepare compositions having desired properties, such as consistency or texture. In particular, additives (if used) and their amounts are determined particularly according to the specific product/its application, eg, lotion, leave-in conditioner, shampoo, cream, rinse-off conditioner, lotion, and the like.

These additives may be present in the composition in amounts of 0.01% to 90%, further for example, 0.1% to 50% (if present), relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

method and use

The compositions according to the present invention can generally be prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. Nonetheless, it is to be understood that those skilled in the art can select methods of preparation on the basis of their general knowledge, taking into account the properties of the ingredients used, such as their solubility in the carrier and the applications envisaged for the composition or kit .

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials, especially hair together with the scalp. Such use may manifest as a method of caring for keratinous material, especially hair, comprising the step of applying the composition of the invention to said keratinous material.

The compositions according to the invention can preferably be used for the production of shampoo products. From the detailed discussion above, it will be appreciated that shampoo products according to the present invention may advantageously have a transparent appearance. Also from the detailed discussion above, it is to be understood that compositions according to the present invention, and thus shampoo products, may be free of silicone oils and/or free of sulfates.

The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, which illustrate particularly advantageous embodiments.

Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without thereby limiting its scope.

Example

The amounts/concentrations of ingredients in the following compositions/formulations are expressed in wt% relative to the total weight of each composition/formulation.

Material:

COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL: Activated Virgin Coconut Oil (AVCO), available from BIOTROPICS

Other materials not described here are each commercially available.

Example 1

Compositions A and B and Comparative Compositions C and D as shown in Tables 1 and 2, respectively, were formulated:

Table 1

INCI Composition A Comparative Composition C Sodium Laureth Sulfate (AE2S-70 from LIANSHUI XINYUAN BIOLOGY) 13 13 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (AMPHOSOL CG-50-X from STEPAN) 2.5 2.5 Octyl/Decyl Glucoside (ORAMIX CG 110 from SEPPIC) 2.5 2.5 Glyceryl Oleate (MONOMULS 90-O 18 from BASF) 0.23 0.23 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 Ethanol 3.9 3.9 Polyquaternium-10 (CELQUAT SC240C from AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON)) 0.3 0.3 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride (JAGUAR C 162 SGI from RHODIA (SOLVAY)) 0.3 0.3 AVCO (Activated Virgin Coconut Oil from BIOTROPICS) 0.9 - citric acid 3 3 Ammonium hydroxide 1 1 Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 Hexylene glycol 0.5 0.5 spices 1.1 1.1 water QS to 100 QS to 100

Table 2

INCI US Composition B Comparative Composition D Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (SP CRODASINIC LS30SNT MBAL-LQ-(RB) from CRODA) 6 6 Sodium lauroylmethyl isethionate (HOSTAPON SCI 85 C from CLARIANT) 3 3 Coco Betaine (AMPHITOL 24B-2 from KAO) 3.6 3.6 Sorbitan polyoxyethylene (20) ether laurate (ERCASORB 2020 FD from ERCA) 5.5 5.5 Polyoxyethylene (120) methylglucose dioleate (GLUCAMATE DOE-120 THICKENER from LUBRIZOL) 2 2 Glyceryl Oleate 0.23 0.23 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride 0.2 0.2 Ethanol 2.2 2.2 AVCO 0.9 - citric acid 0.1 0.1 spices 0.7 0.7 water QS to 100 QS to 100

Compositions A-D listed above were prepared according to manufacturing methods known in the art.

Compositions A-D are obtained as shampoo products according to the present invention. In particular, all compositions A-D were obtained with a transparent appearance.

Example 2

Composition B was evaluated for its soothing feel. Five volunteers between the ages of 25 and 45 applied Composition B to the hair and scalp daily for 3 weeks, followed by 2 weeks without Composition B. Analgesia (soothing) was assessed for a total of 5 weeks. A score for itching sensation before application of Composition B was given as a baseline, and a score for itching sensation after application of Composition B was given daily.

The scores are given and calculated as follows:

For the first 3 weeks, each volunteer shampooed with Composition B every night, using each volunteer's normal usage. For the next 2 weeks, each volunteer also shampooed with a standard AVCO-free shampoo every night, which still used each volunteer's usual usage.

Volunteers rated itching sensation, including:

0 means unchanged;

- 1 means moderate improvement;

- 2 means significant improvement; and

- 3 means that there is almost no itching.

Average scores for 5 volunteers were counted daily and weekly averages were calculated. Average scores for a total of 5 weeks are provided in Table 3 below.

table 3

Week 1 Week 2 Week 3 Week 4 Week 5 Composition A -0.5 -1.0 -1.7 -1.3 -1.1 Composition B -0.7 -0.9 -1.5 -1.3 -1.1

Referring to Table 3, the lower the score, the less itching. Compositions A and B were observed to exhibit very good and long-term antipruritic properties even 2 weeks after the last application of composition B.

Claims (19)

1. A composition for caring keratin material comprising: (A) a fatty acid-ester mixture comprising: (A-I). A fatty acid component comprising at least 3 medium-chain fatty acids, and (A-II). An ester component comprising at least 3 monoesters of medium chain fatty acids and polyols; and (B) at least one anionic surfactant; (C) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and (D) at least one cationic polymer, The medium-chain fatty acid refers to a monocarboxylic acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acid-ester mixture (A) comprises at least 3 fatty acids selected from the group consisting of caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic and arachidic acid, as component (A-I); and the corresponding glycerides of each fatty acid in component (A-I) as component (A-II); Preferably, the fatty acid component (A-I) comprises caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid; while the corresponding component (A-II) comprises glycerol monocaprylate, glyceryl monocaprate and glyceryl monolaurate; and wherein the total amount of fatty acids of component (A-I) and the total amount of monoesters of component (A-II) are 4:1 to 1:1, preferably 3:1 to 1:1, more preferably 2.5:1 to 1.5 :1 ratio exists. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fatty acid-ester mixture (A) is activated virgin coconut oil comprising: - Fatty acid components (A-I): Caprylic acid in an amount of 5-20% by weight, preferably 7-15% by weight or preferably 8-10% by weight; Capric acid in an amount of 1-10% by weight, preferably 2-8% by weight or preferably 4-7% by weight; and lauric acid in an amount of 20-70% by weight, preferably 30-60% by weight or preferably 40-55% by weight; and - Monoester component (A-II): Glycerol monocaprylate in an amount of 0.5-15% by weight, preferably 1-10% by weight or preferably 4-7% by weight; 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight or preferably 3-5% by weight of monocapric glyceride; and Glycerol monolaurate in an amount of 10-40% by weight, preferably 15-35% by weight or preferably 20-30% by weight; Each is based on the total amount of the fatty acid component (A-I) and the monoester component (A-II). 4. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the activated virgin coconut oil comprises: - a fatty acid component (A-I) comprising caprylic, capric and lauric acids in an amount of 5-40% by weight, preferably 10-30% by weight or preferably 20-25% by weight; - a monoester component (A-II) comprising glycerol monocaprylate, glyceryl monocaprate and glyceryl monolaurate in an amount of 1-30% by weight, preferably 5-20% by weight or preferably 10-15% by weight ; - 10-50% by weight, preferably 20-45% by weight or preferably 30-40% by weight of diglycerides of caprylic, capric and lauric acid in total; and - 10-70% by weight, preferably 15-50% by weight or preferably 20-30% by weight of triglycerides of caprylic, capric and lauric acids in total; Each relative to the total amount of activated virgin coconut oil. 5. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant (B) is selected from the following alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts: carboxylates, sulfates, sulfonates, sulfonates Acetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, sarcosinate, glutamate, lactyl lactylate or taurine; The following salts are preferred: (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acyl sarcosinates or (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acyl(methyl) isethionates; or The following salts are preferred: (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acyl sarcosinates or (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acyl(methyl) isethionates. 6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the anionic surfactant (B) is 1% to 30%, such as 5% to 20%, or 10% to 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition % amounts are present in the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. 7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric surfactant (C) is selected from _the group consisting of (C8- _C20 ) _{alkylbetaines} , sulfobetaines, (C8- _C20alkanes ) Betaine surfactants for amino(C2- _C8 alkyl) _betaines and (C8- _C20 alkyl)amido( _{C2 - C8} alkyl)sulfobetaines; preferably coconut oil amidopropyl betaine or cocoyl betaine. 8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the amphoteric surfactant (C) is 1% to 20%, such as 2% to 15%, or 3% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition % amounts are present in the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. 9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition comprises a combination of anionic surfactants in sulfate form and betaine surfactants, such as sodium laureth sulfate and cocoamido A combination of propyl betaine. 10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polymer (D) is selected from cationic cellulose and cationic galactomannan gums, such as quaternized hydroxyalkylcelluloses or containing cationic trioxanes Guar gums based on ammonium groups, such as quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. 11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polymer (D) is 0.1 to 5% by weight of one or more cationic polymers, preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition %, or preferably in an amount of 0.3 to 1% by weight, present in the composition. 12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one nonionic surfactant for use as a solubilizer, selected from the group consisting of glycerides of _C18 - _C24 fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof ; Polyethylene glycol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acid sorbitan esters, and their oxyalkylene derivatives; C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids lost Sorbitan esters, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; sugar esters of C8- _C24 fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of _C8 - _{C24 fatty} alcohols and mixtures thereof. 13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.2% to 20%, such as 1% to 15%, or 2% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In the compositions, all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween are included. 14. A composition according to any of the preceding claims 12-13, comprising a solubilizer complex containing 0.1-8% octyl/decyl glucoside and 0.1-3.5% alcohol relative to the total weight of the composition, Or a solubilizer complex containing 3-6% sorbitan polyoxyethylene (20) ether laurate and 2-4.5% alcohol. 15. The composition according to any of the preceding claims 12 to 14, in the form of a transparent microemulsion, wherein the fatty acid-ester mixture (A) is contained in the oil phase and the nonionic surfactant is contained in the oil phase. in the aqueous phase. 16. A shampoo product comprising a composition according to any preceding claim. 17. A shampoo product according to claim 16 having a transparent appearance. 18. A method of soothing the itching sensation of a keratinous material, in particular of the scalp, comprising the step of applying a composition according to any of the preceding claims 1-15 on the keratinous material. 19. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 for soothing the itching sensation of keratinous materials.