CN114775281B - Preparation method of Porel jean-like fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment - Google Patents
Preparation method of Porel jean-like fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
Description
技术领域Technical Field
本发明属于面料技术领域,涉及一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法。The invention belongs to the technical field of fabrics and relates to a method for preparing a Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment.
背景技术Background technique
Porel纤维是一种采用毛细管腰圆形内腔结构的改性聚酯短纤维。结构中亲水基团和柔性基团,纺丝采用仿棉空腔结构,使Porel纤维制成的服装不仅具备丝光棉的手感,而且穿着舒适,具有易染色、牢度高和良好的吸湿导湿性能。纤维毛细管内腔结构使纤维具有蓬松感,从而使面料既保暖又轻薄;纤维大分子中富有的柔性基团还可以降低纤维刚性模量,从而织物手感更加柔软,磨擦揉搓后不易起球,制备。Porel纤维的面料具有良好的吸湿速干、吸湿发热、保暖速干特点。Porel fiber is a modified polyester staple fiber with a capillary waist-shaped inner cavity structure. The hydrophilic group and flexible group in the structure, and the cotton-like cavity structure used in spinning make the clothing made of Porel fiber not only have the feel of mercerized cotton, but also comfortable to wear, easy to dye, high fastness and good moisture absorption and moisture conduction properties. The fiber capillary inner cavity structure makes the fiber fluffy, making the fabric both warm and light; the rich flexible groups in the fiber macromolecules can also reduce the fiber rigid modulus, so that the fabric feels softer and is not easy to pilling after friction and rubbing. The fabric of Porel fiber has good moisture absorption and quick drying, moisture absorption and heat generation, warmth retention and quick drying characteristics.
仿牛仔面料制备主要通过纱线染色和面料染色两种方法,前者多为纤维素纤维如棉、黏胶和天丝;后者常采用染料染色和涂料染色形式,目前染料染色常用活性染料染纤维素纤维,但染色时常消耗大量的染料、无机盐和水,而且染料的利用率在80%以下,排放的染料废水较多。为降低染料的排放和缩短工艺流程,涂料染色制备仿牛仔面料被应用,这种方法虽然能减少染料废水,但技术应用并不广泛。经处理后的纱线形成的织物再进行染色时,可提高染料的利用率、提高织物色牢度,工艺简单,流程短,排放的废水少。面料经过整理后可形成具有不同性能的面料,应用比较广泛。Imitation denim fabrics are mainly prepared through two methods: yarn dyeing and fabric dyeing. The former is mostly cellulose fibers such as cotton, viscose and Tencel; the latter is often dyed with dyes and paints. At present, dye dyeing often uses reactive dyes to dye cellulose fibers, but dyeing often consumes a lot of dyes, inorganic salts and water, and the utilization rate of dyes is below 80%, and a lot of dye wastewater is discharged. In order to reduce the discharge of dyes and shorten the process flow, paint dyeing is used to prepare imitation denim fabrics. Although this method can reduce dye wastewater, the technical application is not widespread. When the fabric formed by the treated yarn is dyed again, the utilization rate of the dye can be improved, the color fastness of the fabric can be improved, the process is simple, the process is short, and less wastewater is discharged. After finishing, the fabric can form fabrics with different properties, which are widely used.
现有技术中,利用全部原料或主要原料相同的经纱和纬纱通过织造后染色的方法制备仿牛仔面料的方法包括:In the prior art, methods for preparing imitation denim fabrics by using warp yarns and weft yarns with the same raw materials or main raw materials through weaving and then dyeing include:
(1)通过染料染色的方式利用全部原料或主要原料相同的经纱和纬纱通过织造后染色的方法制备仿牛仔面料,染料为靛蓝类染料,染色后无法直接形成仿牛仔风格,需要进行砂洗才能显现出仿牛仔风格,砂洗过程中需要消耗大量的染料、助剂和水等;(1) using dyes to dye warp and weft yarns with the same raw materials or main raw materials to prepare imitation denim fabrics by dyeing after weaving, the dye is an indigo dye, and the imitation denim style cannot be formed directly after dyeing, and sand washing is required to show the imitation denim style. A large amount of dyes, auxiliaries and water are consumed in the sand washing process;
(2)通过涂料染色的方式利用全部原料或主要原料相同的经纱和纬纱通过织造后染色的方法制备仿牛仔面料,涂料染色的工艺流程为:织物前处理→涂料轧染→焙烘→砂洗→柔软整理,涂料染色时仿牛仔风格形成的关键在于砂洗,这种方法虽然能减少染料废水,但技术应用并不广泛。(2) Imitation denim fabrics are prepared by dyeing with paint using warp and weft yarns with the same raw materials or main raw materials after weaving. The process flow of paint dyeing is: fabric pretreatment → paint roller dyeing → baking → sand washing → soft finishing. The key to the formation of imitation denim style during paint dyeing is sand washing. Although this method can reduce dye wastewater, the technology is not widely used.
如能省略砂洗工序,利用全部原料或主要原料为Porel纤维的经纱和纬纱通过织造后染色的方法制备仿牛仔面料将极有意义。If the sand washing process can be omitted, it will be very meaningful to prepare imitation denim fabrics by using warp and weft yarns made entirely or mainly of Porel fibers through a post-weaving dyeing method.
发明内容Summary of the invention
本发明的目的是解决现有技术中存在的问题,提供一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法。The purpose of the invention is to solve the problems existing in the prior art and to provide a method for preparing a Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment.
为达到上述目的,本发明采用的技术方案如下:To achieve the above object, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is as follows:
一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,以含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱为纬纱,以由Porel纤维组成的纱线为经纱,将纬纱和经纱织造成面料后采用阳离子染料对面料进行染色,即得Porel仿牛仔面料,其中,含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱中疏水Porel纤维的含量为92wt%,疏水Porel纤维为经过疏水处理的Porel纤维,阳离子染料为可染Porel纤维同时不可染疏水Porel纤维的阳离子染料;对Porel纤维进行染色的阳离子染料应具有一些特点,如杂环系的单偶氮型结构,配伍值在3左右,例如阳离子蓝X-GRRL、阳离子红2GL和阳离子染料艳蓝RL等,阳离子染料对经过疏水处理的Porel纤维的亲和力差,对其不能着色,可避免经过疏水处理的Porel纤维染色。The invention discloses a preparation method of a Porel imitation denim fabric based on a hydrophobic treatment of weft yarns. The method comprises the following steps: using an elastic core-spun yarn containing hydrophobic Porel fibers as weft yarns and a yarn composed of Porel fibers as warp yarns, weaving the weft yarns and the warp yarns into fabrics, and then dyeing the fabrics with cationic dyes to obtain the Porel imitation denim fabrics. The content of hydrophobic Porel fibers in the elastic core-spun yarn containing hydrophobic Porel fibers is 92wt%, the hydrophobic Porel fibers are hydrophobically treated Porel fibers, and the cationic dyes are cationic dyes that can dye Porel fibers but cannot dye hydrophobic Porel fibers. The cationic dyes that dye the Porel fibers should have some characteristics, such as a monoazo structure of a heterocyclic system and a compatibility value of about 3, such as cationic blue X-GRRL, cationic red 2GL and cationic dye brilliant blue RL. The cationic dyes have poor affinity for the hydrophobically treated Porel fibers and cannot dye them, so dyeing of the hydrophobically treated Porel fibers can be avoided.
本发明无需砂洗即可通过染料染色的方式利用主要原料为Porel纤维的纬纱和经纱通过织造后染色的方法制备仿牛仔面料,虽然经纱的全部原料为Porel纤维,纬纱的主要原料为Porel纤维,但是纬纱经过了疏水处理,在染色过程中难以上染,染色过程中,由于纬纱疏水,经纱亲水,因而纬纱着色较浅,经纱着色较深,经浮点(正面)显色,纬浮点(反面)留白,面料具有牛仔面料的风格,同时得益于面料正反面亲疏水性的差异(反面有不连续的疏水点,正面有一定亲水性)以及Porel纤维的中空结构,面料具有良好的吸湿排汗性能。The invention can prepare the imitation denim fabric by dyeing with dyes using weft yarns and warp yarns whose main raw material is Porel fiber through weaving and dyeing without sand washing. Although all the raw materials of the warp yarns are Porel fiber and the main raw material of the weft yarns is Porel fiber, the weft yarns are hydrophobic and difficult to dye during the dyeing process. During the dyeing process, since the weft yarns are hydrophobic and the warp yarns are hydrophilic, the weft yarns are lighter in color and the warp yarns are darker in color. The warp floating points (front side) are colored and the weft floating points (back side) are left blank. The fabric has the style of denim fabric. At the same time, thanks to the difference in hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity between the front and back sides of the fabric (the back side has discontinuous hydrophobic points and the front side has certain hydrophilicity) and the hollow structure of the Porel fiber, the fabric has good moisture absorption and perspiration wicking performance.
作为优选的技术方案:As the preferred technical solution:
如上所述的一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱的制备过程为:在环锭纱机上,将粗细为40D的氨纶长丝喂入前罗拉,同时将粗细为308~350dtex的Porel纤维喂入后罗拉,将氨纶长丝和Porel纤维汇合后在加捻三角区经过加捻得到捻系数为300~330的弹性包芯纱后进行疏水处理即得含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱,其中,氨纶长丝的牵伸倍数3.5~4,后区牵伸倍数为1.1~1.2,预牵伸倍数为4~5。As described above, a method for preparing a Porel imitation denim fabric based on a hydrophobic treatment of weft yarns, the preparation process of the elastic core-spun yarn containing hydrophobic Porel fibers is as follows: on a ring spinning machine, a spandex filament with a thickness of 40D is fed into the front roller, and a Porel fiber with a thickness of 308-350dtex is fed into the rear roller, the spandex filament and the Porel fiber are combined, and then twisted in a twisting triangle area to obtain an elastic core-spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 300-330, and then hydrophobic treatment is performed to obtain the elastic core-spun yarn containing the hydrophobic Porel fibers, wherein the stretching multiples of the spandex filaments are 3.5-4, the stretching multiples of the rear area are 1.1-1.2, and the pre-stretching multiples are 4-5.
如上所述的一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,对弹性包芯纱进行疏水处理的过程为:将弹性包芯纱浸泡在温度为30℃的疏水整理液中30~45min后,在85~95℃下预烘3~5min,再在110~120℃下焙烘1~2min,其中,疏水整理液是通过将疏水整理剂和交联剂溶解在水中后调节pH值至5~6得到的。As described above, a method for preparing Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment, the process of hydrophobic treatment of the elastic core-spun yarn is: after the elastic core-spun yarn is immersed in a hydrophobic finishing liquid at a temperature of 30°C for 30 to 45 minutes, it is pre-baked at 85 to 95°C for 3 to 5 minutes, and then baked at 110 to 120°C for 1 to 2 minutes, wherein the hydrophobic finishing liquid is obtained by dissolving a hydrophobic finishing agent and a cross-linking agent in water and then adjusting the pH value to 5 to 6.
如上所述的一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,疏水整理液中疏水整理剂的浓度为40~80g/L,交联剂的浓度为1~3g/L,浸泡时弹性包芯纱与疏水整理液的质量比为1:20~40;疏水整理剂为机硅类疏水剂如聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷改性水性聚氨酯、有机硅改性聚丙烯酸酯等;交联剂为醚化羟甲基三聚氰胺、环氧乙烷基类、柠檬酸或多元羧酸。As described above, a preparation method of Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment, the concentration of the hydrophobic finishing agent in the hydrophobic finishing liquid is 40-80 g/L, the concentration of the cross-linking agent is 1-3 g/L, and the mass ratio of the elastic core-spun yarn to the hydrophobic finishing liquid during immersion is 1:20-40; the hydrophobic finishing agent is a silicone hydrophobic agent such as polydimethylsiloxane, polysiloxane-modified water-based polyurethane, silicone-modified polyacrylate, etc.; the cross-linking agent is etherified hydroxymethyl melamine, ethylene oxide-based, citric acid or polycarboxylic acid.
如上所述的一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,纬纱的规格为10~15S/1,92P/8SP,经纱的规格为10~15S/1,100%P,经纱中Porel纤维的粗细为310~340dtex。As described above, a preparation method of Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment, the specifications of the weft yarn are 10-15S/1, 92P/8SP, the specifications of the warp yarn are 10-15S/1, 100%P, and the thickness of the Porel fiber in the warp yarn is 310-340dtex.
如上所述的一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,面料的总紧度为55~70%,组织的交织频率为0.2~0.4,组织结构为3上1下/左斜或2上1下/左斜,经纬密为60×44~60×50。The preparation method of Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment as described above has a total tightness of 55-70%, an interlacing frequency of 0.2-0.4, a weave structure of 3 up and 1 down/left oblique or 2 up and 1 down/left oblique, and a warp and weft density of 60×44-60×50.
如上所述的一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,染色前,还采用丝网印花的方式对面料反面进行疏水涂层整理;对面料反面进行涂层整理能够提高面料反面的疏水性,不对面料正面进行涂层整理能够保留面料正面的亲水性,提高面料两侧的亲疏性差异,进而提高面料的吸湿排汗性能。In the preparation method of Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment as described above, before dyeing, the back of the fabric is subjected to hydrophobic coating by screen printing; coating the back of the fabric can improve the hydrophobicity of the back of the fabric, and not coating the front of the fabric can retain the hydrophilicity of the front of the fabric, thereby increasing the difference in hydrophilicity between the two sides of the fabric and thereby improving the moisture absorption and perspiration wicking performance of the fabric.
如上所述的一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,疏水涂层整理的过程为:首先将疏水整理剂与浓度为50~60wt%的海藻酸钠糊混合得到疏水整理剂浓度为2~12wt%的色浆,然后通过丝网印花的方式将色浆整理到面料反面,接着将面料在80~90℃下预烘2~4min,再在120~125℃下焙烘3~4min,最后水洗去除面料反面的海藻酸钠。As described above, a preparation method of Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment, the process of hydrophobic coating finishing is: first, a hydrophobic finishing agent is mixed with a sodium alginate paste with a concentration of 50-60wt% to obtain a color paste with a hydrophobic finishing agent concentration of 2-12wt%, and then the color paste is finished on the back of the fabric by screen printing, and then the fabric is pre-baked at 80-90°C for 2-4min, and then baked at 120-125°C for 3-4min, and finally washed with water to remove the sodium alginate on the back of the fabric.
如上所述的一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,疏水整理剂为聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷改性水性聚氨酯或有机硅改性聚丙烯酸酯。In the method for preparing the Porel imitation denim fabric based on the hydrophobic treatment of the weft yarn as described above, the hydrophobic finishing agent is polydimethylsiloxane, polysiloxane-modified waterborne polyurethane or silicone-modified polyacrylate.
如上所述的一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,染色的过程为:首先在30℃的温度条件下将面料加入到染液中,接着以2~2.5℃/min的升温速率升温至60~70℃后保温25~30min,最后以0.5~1℃/min的升温速率升温至85~95℃后保温45~60min;染液是通过将阳离子染料、KFS和元明粉加入到水中后调节体系的pH值为5~6得到的,染液中阳离子染料的质量分数为1~4%owf,KFS的浓度为0.5~1g/L,元明粉的浓度为2g/L;染色的浴比为1:15~30。The preparation method of Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment as described above, the dyeing process is: first, the fabric is added to the dye solution at a temperature of 30°C, then the temperature is increased to 60-70°C at a heating rate of 2-2.5°C/min and then kept warm for 25-30min, and finally the temperature is increased to 85-95°C at a heating rate of 0.5-1°C/min and then kept warm for 45-60min; the dye solution is obtained by adding cationic dye, KFS and sodium sulfate to water and then adjusting the pH value of the system to 5-6, the mass fraction of the cationic dye in the dye solution is 1-4% owf, the concentration of KFS is 0.5-1g/L, and the concentration of sodium sulfate is 2g/L; the dyeing bath ratio is 1:15-30.
如上所述的一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,染色结束后进行还原清洗;清洗液由2~3g/L的保险粉、0.5~1g/L的氢氧化钠和余量的水组成;还原清洗的温度为75~85℃,时间为10~15min,浴比为1:15~30。The preparation method of Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment as described above is as follows: after dyeing, reduction cleaning is performed; the cleaning solution is composed of 2-3 g/L of hydrosulfite, 0.5-1 g/L of sodium hydroxide and the remainder of water; the reduction cleaning temperature is 75-85°C, the time is 10-15 min, and the bath ratio is 1:15-30.
如上所述的一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的吸水率为165~230%,吸水速率为20~35%/s,单向传递指数为145~200,垂直芯吸高度为60~85mm,上染率为80~94%,耐摩擦牢度为3级以上,耐皂洗牢度为3级以上,吸水率、吸水速率、单向传递指数、垂直芯吸高度的测试方法都参考GB/T21655.2-2019《纺织品吸湿速干性的评定第二部分:动态水分传递法》、FZ/T 01071-2008《纺织品毛细效应试验方法》和吸水率、滴水扩散时间按照GB/T 21655.1-2008《纺织品吸湿速干性的评定第一部分:单项组合试验法》,耐摩擦牢度测试方法参考GB/T 3920-2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐摩擦色牢度》,耐皂洗牢度测试方法参考GB/T 3921-2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐皂洗色牢度》。The preparation method of the Porel imitation denim fabric based on the weft hydrophobic treatment as described above, the water absorption rate of the Porel imitation denim fabric based on the weft hydrophobic treatment is 165-230%, the water absorption rate is 20-35%/s, the one-way transfer index is 145-200, the vertical wicking height is 60-85mm, the dyeing rate is 80-94%, the rubbing fastness is above level 3, and the soap washing fastness is above level 3. The test methods of water absorption rate, water absorption rate, one-way transfer index and vertical wicking height are all based on GB/T21655.2-2019 "Evaluation of Moisture Absorption and Quick-drying of Textiles Part 2: Dynamic Moisture Transfer Method", FZ/T 01071-2008 "Test Method for Capillary Effect of Textiles" and water absorption rate and drip diffusion time are based on GB/T 21655.1-2008 "Evaluation of Moisture Absorption and Quick-drying of Textiles Part 1: Single Item Combination Test Method", and the test method of rubbing fastness is based on GB/T 3920-2008 "Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to rubbing", the test method for fastness to washing with soap refers to GB/T 3921-2008 "Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to washing with soap".
有益效果:Beneficial effects:
(1)本发明的制备方法中纬纱和面料的反面疏水整理,使面料的两面具有较大的差异性;(1) The weft yarn and the reverse side of the fabric in the preparation method of the present invention are hydrophobically finished, so that the two sides of the fabric have greater differences;
(2)本发明的制备方法中采用阳离子染料对Porel纤维进行染色,制得的Porel纤维的中空度保湿较好且染料的利用率高。(2) In the preparation method of the present invention, cationic dyes are used to dye Porel fibers, and the hollowness of the prepared Porel fibers has good moisture retention and high utilization rate of the dyes.
(3)本发明的纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料经浮点(正面)显色,纬浮点(留白,有仿牛仔风格;(3) The Porel imitation denim fabric with hydrophobic weft yarn of the present invention has warp floating point (front) color, weft floating point (white space, imitation denim style;
(4)本发明的纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料反面有不连续的疏水点,正面有一定亲水性,具有较好的吸湿排汗性,可赋予热湿舒适性,适合开发春夏仿牛仔面料;(4) The Porel imitation denim fabric with hydrophobic weft yarn of the present invention has discontinuous hydrophobic points on the back and a certain degree of hydrophilicity on the front, has good moisture absorption and perspiration wicking properties, can provide thermal and wet comfort, and is suitable for the development of spring and summer imitation denim fabrics;
(5)本发明的纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料具有良好吸湿导湿性能,面料颜色鲜艳、色牢度好,可适用于春夏仿牛仔面料。(5) The Porel imitation denim fabric with hydrophobic weft yarn of the present invention has good moisture absorption and moisture conduction properties, and the fabric has bright color and good color fastness, and can be applied to spring and summer imitation denim fabrics.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
下面结合具体实施方式,进一步阐述本发明。应理解,这些实施例仅用于说明本发明而不用于限制本发明的范围。此外应理解,在阅读了本发明讲授的内容之后,本领域技术人员可以对本发明作各种改动或修改,这些等价形式同样落于本申请所附权利要求书所限定的范围。The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments. It should be understood that these embodiments are only used to illustrate the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. In addition, it should be understood that after reading the content taught by the present invention, those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications to the present invention, and these equivalent forms fall within the scope limited by the appended claims of the application equally.
实施例1Example 1
一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,具体步骤如下:A method for preparing Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment, the specific steps are as follows:
(1)原料的准备;(1) Preparation of raw materials;
纬纱为含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱,疏水Porel纤维的含量为92wt%,纬纱的规格为10S/1,92P/8SP,其制备方法为:在环锭纱机上,将粗细为40D的氨纶长丝喂入前罗拉,同时将粗细为308dtex的Porel纤维喂入后罗拉,将氨纶长丝和Porel纤维汇合后在加捻三角区经过加捻得到捻系数为300的弹性包芯纱后进行疏水处理即得含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱,其中,氨纶长丝的牵伸倍数3.5,后区牵伸倍数为1.1,预牵伸倍数为4;The weft yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn containing hydrophobic Porel fiber, the content of the hydrophobic Porel fiber is 92wt%, and the specification of the weft yarn is 10S/1, 92P/8SP. The preparation method is as follows: on a ring spinning machine, a spandex filament with a thickness of 40D is fed into a front roller, and a Porel fiber with a thickness of 308dtex is fed into a rear roller, the spandex filament and the Porel fiber are combined, twisted in a twisting triangle area to obtain an elastic core-spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 300, and then hydrophobic treatment is performed to obtain the elastic core-spun yarn containing the hydrophobic Porel fiber, wherein the drafting multiple of the spandex filament is 3.5, the drafting multiple of the rear area is 1.1, and the pre-drafting multiple is 4;
对弹性包芯纱进行疏水处理的过程为:将弹性包芯纱浸泡在温度为30℃的疏水整理液中30min后,在85℃下预烘3min,再在110℃下焙烘2min,其中,疏水整理液是通过将疏水整理剂和交联剂溶解在水中后调节pH值至5得到的;疏水整理液中疏水整理剂的浓度为40g/L,交联剂的浓度为3g/L,浸泡时弹性包芯纱与疏水整理液的质量比为1:20;疏水整理剂为聚二甲基硅氧烷(JZH-203);交联剂为醚化羟甲基三聚氰胺;The process of hydrophobic treatment of elastic core-spun yarn is as follows: soak the elastic core-spun yarn in a hydrophobic finishing liquid at a temperature of 30°C for 30 minutes, pre-bake at 85°C for 3 minutes, and then bake at 110°C for 2 minutes, wherein the hydrophobic finishing liquid is obtained by dissolving a hydrophobic finishing agent and a cross-linking agent in water and then adjusting the pH value to 5; the concentration of the hydrophobic finishing agent in the hydrophobic finishing liquid is 40g/L, the concentration of the cross-linking agent is 3g/L, and the mass ratio of the elastic core-spun yarn to the hydrophobic finishing liquid during immersion is 1:20; the hydrophobic finishing agent is polydimethylsiloxane (JZH-203); the cross-linking agent is etherified hydroxymethyl melamine;
经纱为由粗细为310dtex的Porel纤维组成的纱线,经纱的规格为15S/1,100%P;The warp yarn is composed of Porel fiber with a thickness of 310 dtex, and the specification of the warp yarn is 15S/1, 100% P;
(2)织造;(2) Weaving;
将纬纱和经纱织造成面料;Weaving weft and warp yarns into fabric;
制得的面料的总紧度为55%,组织的交织频率为0.2,组织结构为3上1下/左斜,经纬密为60×44;The total tightness of the fabric is 55%, the interlacing frequency of the fabric is 0.2, the fabric structure is 3 up and 1 down/left oblique, and the warp and weft density is 60×44;
(3)疏水涂层整理;(3) Hydrophobic coating finishing;
首先将聚二甲基硅氧烷(JZH-203)与浓度为50wt%的海藻酸钠糊混合得到疏水整理剂浓度为2wt%的色浆,然后通过丝网印花的方式将色浆整理到步骤(2)制得的面料反面,接着将面料在80℃下预烘4min,再在120℃下焙烘4min,最后水洗去除面料反面的海藻酸钠;First, polydimethylsiloxane (JZH-203) and sodium alginate paste with a concentration of 50wt% are mixed to obtain a color paste with a hydrophobic finishing agent concentration of 2wt%, and then the color paste is finished on the reverse side of the fabric obtained in step (2) by screen printing, and then the fabric is pre-baked at 80°C for 4 minutes, and then baked at 120°C for 4 minutes, and finally washed with water to remove the sodium alginate on the reverse side of the fabric;
(4)染色;(4) Staining;
首先在30℃的温度条件下将步骤(3)疏水涂层整理后的面料加入到染液中,接着以2℃/min的升温速率升温至60℃后保温30min,最后以0.5℃/min的升温速率升温至95℃后保温45min;染液是通过将阳离子蓝X-GRRL、KFS和元明粉加入到水中后调节体系的pH值为5得到的,染液中阳离子蓝X-GRRL的质量分数为1%owf,KFS的浓度为0.5g/L,元明粉的浓度为2g/L;染色的浴比为1:15;First, the fabric treated with the hydrophobic coating in step (3) is added to the dyeing solution at a temperature of 30°C, then the temperature is increased to 60°C at a heating rate of 2°C/min and then kept warm for 30 minutes, and finally the temperature is increased to 95°C at a heating rate of 0.5°C/min and then kept warm for 45 minutes; the dyeing solution is obtained by adding cationic blue X-GRRL, KFS and sodium sulfate to water and then adjusting the pH value of the system to 5, the mass fraction of cationic blue X-GRRL in the dyeing solution is 1% owf, the concentration of KFS is 0.5g/L, and the concentration of sodium sulfate is 2g/L; the bath ratio of dyeing is 1:15;
(5)还原清洗;(5) Reduction cleaning;
染色结束后,对步骤(4)得到的面料进行还原清洗,制得基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料;其中,清洗液由2g/L的保险粉、0.5g/L的氢氧化钠和余量的水组成;还原清洗的温度为75℃,时间为15min,浴比为1:15。After dyeing, the fabric obtained in step (4) is subjected to reduction cleaning to obtain Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment; wherein the cleaning solution consists of 2 g/L of hydrophobic powder, 0.5 g/L of sodium hydroxide and the remainder of water; the reduction cleaning temperature is 75° C., the time is 15 min, and the bath ratio is 1:15.
制得的基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的吸水率为190%,吸水速率为25%/s,单向传递指数为160,垂直芯吸高度为70mm,上染率为90%,耐摩擦牢度为3-4级,耐皂洗牢度为3-4级。The water absorption rate of the prepared Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment is 190%, the water absorption rate is 25%/s, the one-way transfer index is 160, the vertical wicking height is 70mm, the dyeing rate is 90%, the friction fastness is level 3-4, and the soap washing fastness is level 3-4.
实施例2Example 2
一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,具体步骤如下:A method for preparing Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment, the specific steps are as follows:
(1)原料的准备;(1) Preparation of raw materials;
纬纱为含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱,疏水Porel纤维的含量为92wt%,纬纱的规格为10S/1,92P/8SP,其制备方法为:在环锭纱机上,将粗细为40D的氨纶长丝喂入前罗拉,同时将粗细为315dtex的Porel纤维喂入后罗拉,将氨纶长丝和Porel纤维汇合后在加捻三角区经过加捻得到捻系数为310的弹性包芯纱后进行疏水处理即得含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱,其中,氨纶长丝的牵伸倍数3.7,后区牵伸倍数为1.1,预牵伸倍数为4;The weft yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn containing hydrophobic Porel fiber, the content of the hydrophobic Porel fiber is 92wt%, and the specification of the weft yarn is 10S/1, 92P/8SP. The preparation method is as follows: on a ring spinning machine, a spandex filament with a thickness of 40D is fed into a front roller, and a Porel fiber with a thickness of 315dtex is fed into a rear roller, the spandex filament and the Porel fiber are combined, twisted in a twisting triangle area to obtain an elastic core-spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 310, and then hydrophobic treatment is performed to obtain the elastic core-spun yarn containing the hydrophobic Porel fiber, wherein the drafting multiple of the spandex filament is 3.7, the drafting multiple of the rear area is 1.1, and the pre-drafting multiple is 4;
对弹性包芯纱进行疏水处理的过程为:将弹性包芯纱浸泡在温度为30℃的疏水整理液中33min后,在87℃下预烘3min,再在112℃下焙烘2min,其中,疏水整理液是通过将疏水整理剂和交联剂溶解在水中后调节pH值至5得到的;疏水整理液中疏水整理剂的浓度为50g/L,交联剂的浓度为3g/L,浸泡时弹性包芯纱与疏水整理液的质量比为1:25;疏水整理剂为聚硅氧烷改性水性聚氨酯(SPU);交联剂为环氧硅烷交联剂(牌号为XR-500);The process of hydrophobic treatment of the elastic core-spun yarn is as follows: the elastic core-spun yarn is immersed in a hydrophobic finishing liquid at a temperature of 30°C for 33 minutes, pre-baked at 87°C for 3 minutes, and then baked at 112°C for 2 minutes, wherein the hydrophobic finishing liquid is obtained by dissolving a hydrophobic finishing agent and a cross-linking agent in water and then adjusting the pH value to 5; the concentration of the hydrophobic finishing agent in the hydrophobic finishing liquid is 50g/L, the concentration of the cross-linking agent is 3g/L, and the mass ratio of the elastic core-spun yarn to the hydrophobic finishing liquid during immersion is 1:25; the hydrophobic finishing agent is polysiloxane-modified waterborne polyurethane (SPU); the cross-linking agent is an epoxy silane cross-linking agent (brand number XR-500);
经纱为由粗细为320dtex的Porel纤维组成的纱线,经纱的规格为12S/1,100%P;The warp yarn is composed of Porel fiber with a thickness of 320 dtex, and the specification of the warp yarn is 12S/1, 100% P;
(2)织造;(2) Weaving;
将纬纱和经纱织造成面料;Weaving weft and warp yarns into fabric;
制得的面料的总紧度为58%,组织的交织频率为0.2,组织结构为3上1下/左斜,经纬密为60×44;The total tightness of the fabric is 58%, the interlacing frequency of the fabric is 0.2, the fabric structure is 3 up and 1 down/left oblique, and the warp and weft density is 60×44;
(3)疏水涂层整理;(3) Hydrophobic coating finishing;
首先将聚硅氧烷改性水性聚氨酯(SPU)与浓度为52wt%的海藻酸钠糊混合得到疏水整理剂浓度为4wt%的色浆,然后通过丝网印花的方式将色浆整理到步骤(2)制得的面料反面,接着将面料在82℃下预烘4min,再在122℃下焙烘4min,最后水洗去除面料反面的海藻酸钠;First, polysiloxane-modified waterborne polyurethane (SPU) is mixed with sodium alginate paste with a concentration of 52 wt% to obtain a color paste with a hydrophobic finishing agent concentration of 4 wt%, and then the color paste is finished on the reverse side of the fabric obtained in step (2) by screen printing, and then the fabric is pre-baked at 82° C. for 4 min, and then baked at 122° C. for 4 min, and finally washed with water to remove the sodium alginate on the reverse side of the fabric;
(4)染色;(4) Staining;
首先在30℃的温度条件下将步骤(3)疏水涂层整理后的面料加入到染液中,接着以2.1℃/min的升温速率升温至64℃后保温28min,最后以0.6℃/min的升温速率升温至93℃后保温48min;染液是通过将阳离子红2GL、KFS和元明粉加入到水中后调节体系的pH值为5得到的,染液中阳离子红2GL的质量分数为1.5%owf,KFS的浓度为0.6g/L,元明粉的浓度为2g/L;染色的浴比为1:20;First, the fabric treated with the hydrophobic coating in step (3) is added to the dyeing solution at a temperature of 30°C, then the temperature is increased to 64°C at a heating rate of 2.1°C/min and then kept warm for 28 minutes, and finally the temperature is increased to 93°C at a heating rate of 0.6°C/min and then kept warm for 48 minutes; the dyeing solution is obtained by adding cationic red 2GL, KFS and sodium sulfate to water and then adjusting the pH value of the system to 5, the mass fraction of cationic red 2GL in the dyeing solution is 1.5% owf, the concentration of KFS is 0.6g/L, and the concentration of sodium sulfate is 2g/L; the bath ratio of dyeing is 1:20;
(5)还原清洗;(5) Reduction cleaning;
染色结束后,对步骤(4)得到的面料进行还原清洗,制得基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料;其中,清洗液由2g/L的保险粉、0.6g/L的氢氧化钠和余量的水组成;还原清洗的温度为77℃,时间为14min,浴比为1:18。After dyeing, the fabric obtained in step (4) is subjected to reduction cleaning to obtain Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment; wherein the cleaning solution consists of 2 g/L of hydrophobic powder, 0.6 g/L of sodium hydroxide and the remainder of water; the reduction cleaning temperature is 77° C., the time is 14 min, and the bath ratio is 1:18.
制得的基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的吸水率为195%,吸水速率为28%/s,单向传递指数为165,垂直芯吸高度为73mm,上染率为91%,耐摩擦牢度为3-4级,耐皂洗牢度为3-4级。The water absorption rate of the prepared Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment is 195%, the water absorption rate is 28%/s, the one-way transfer index is 165, the vertical wicking height is 73mm, the dyeing rate is 91%, the friction fastness is level 3-4, and the soap washing fastness is level 3-4.
实施例3Example 3
一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,具体步骤如下:A method for preparing Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment, the specific steps are as follows:
(1)原料的准备;(1) Preparation of raw materials;
纬纱为含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱,疏水Porel纤维的含量为92wt%,纬纱的规格为12S/1,92P/8SP,其制备方法为:在环锭纱机上,将粗细为40D的氨纶长丝喂入前罗拉,同时将粗细为320dtex的Porel纤维喂入后罗拉,将氨纶长丝和Porel纤维汇合后在加捻三角区经过加捻得到捻系数为315的弹性包芯纱后进行疏水处理即得含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱,其中,氨纶长丝的牵伸倍数3.8,后区牵伸倍数为1.2,预牵伸倍数为5;The weft yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn containing hydrophobic Porel fiber, the content of the hydrophobic Porel fiber is 92wt%, and the specification of the weft yarn is 12S/1, 92P/8SP. The preparation method is as follows: on a ring spinning machine, a spandex filament with a thickness of 40D is fed into a front roller, and a Porel fiber with a thickness of 320dtex is fed into a rear roller, the spandex filament and the Porel fiber are combined, twisted in a twisting triangle area to obtain an elastic core-spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 315, and then hydrophobic treatment is performed to obtain the elastic core-spun yarn containing the hydrophobic Porel fiber, wherein the drafting multiple of the spandex filament is 3.8, the drafting multiple of the rear area is 1.2, and the pre-drafting multiple is 5;
对弹性包芯纱进行疏水处理的过程为:将弹性包芯纱浸泡在温度为30℃的疏水整理液中36min后,在89℃下预烘4min,再在114℃下焙烘2min,其中,疏水整理液是通过将疏水整理剂和交联剂溶解在水中后调节pH值至5得到的;疏水整理液中疏水整理剂的浓度为60g/L,交联剂的浓度为2g/L,浸泡时弹性包芯纱与疏水整理液的质量比为1:30;疏水整理剂为有机硅改性聚丙烯酸酯(PUA);交联剂为柠檬酸;The process of hydrophobic treatment of elastic core-spun yarn is as follows: soak the elastic core-spun yarn in a hydrophobic finishing liquid at a temperature of 30°C for 36 minutes, pre-bake at 89°C for 4 minutes, and then bake at 114°C for 2 minutes, wherein the hydrophobic finishing liquid is obtained by dissolving a hydrophobic finishing agent and a cross-linking agent in water and then adjusting the pH value to 5; the concentration of the hydrophobic finishing agent in the hydrophobic finishing liquid is 60g/L, the concentration of the cross-linking agent is 2g/L, and the mass ratio of the elastic core-spun yarn to the hydrophobic finishing liquid during immersion is 1:30; the hydrophobic finishing agent is silicone-modified polyacrylate (PUA); the cross-linking agent is citric acid;
经纱为由粗细为320dtex的Porel纤维组成的纱线,经纱的规格为12S/1,100%P;The warp yarn is composed of Porel fiber with a thickness of 320 dtex, and the specification of the warp yarn is 12S/1, 100% P;
(2)织造;(2) Weaving;
将纬纱和经纱织造成面料;Weaving weft and warp yarns into fabric;
制得的面料的总紧度为62%,组织的交织频率为0.3,组织结构为3上1下/左斜,经纬密为60×48;The total tightness of the fabric is 62%, the interlacing frequency of the fabric is 0.3, the fabric structure is 3 up and 1 down/left oblique, and the warp and weft density is 60×48;
(3)疏水涂层整理;(3) Hydrophobic coating finishing;
首先将有机硅改性聚丙烯酸酯(PUA)与浓度为54wt%的海藻酸钠糊混合得到疏水整理剂浓度为6wt%的色浆,然后通过丝网印花的方式将色浆整理到步骤(2)制得的面料反面,接着将面料在84℃下预烘3min,再在124℃下焙烘4min,最后水洗去除面料反面的海藻酸钠;First, a silicone-modified polyacrylate (PUA) is mixed with a sodium alginate paste having a concentration of 54 wt% to obtain a color paste having a hydrophobic finishing agent concentration of 6 wt%, and then the color paste is applied to the reverse side of the fabric obtained in step (2) by screen printing, and then the fabric is pre-baked at 84°C for 3 min, and then baked at 124°C for 4 min, and finally washed with water to remove the sodium alginate on the reverse side of the fabric;
(4)染色;(4) Staining;
首先在30℃的温度条件下将步骤(3)疏水涂层整理后的面料加入到染液中,接着以2.2℃/min的升温速率升温至66℃后保温26min,最后以0.7℃/min的升温速率升温至90℃后保温50min;染液是通过将阳离子染料艳蓝RL、KFS和元明粉加入到水中后调节体系的pH值为5得到的,染液中阳离子染料艳蓝RL的质量分数为2%owf,KFS的浓度为0.7g/L,元明粉的浓度为2g/L;染色的浴比为1:23;First, the fabric treated with the hydrophobic coating in step (3) is added to the dye solution at a temperature of 30°C, then the temperature is increased to 66°C at a heating rate of 2.2°C/min and then kept warm for 26 minutes, and finally the temperature is increased to 90°C at a heating rate of 0.7°C/min and then kept warm for 50 minutes; the dye solution is obtained by adding cationic dye brilliant blue RL, KFS and sodium sulfate to water and then adjusting the pH value of the system to 5, the mass fraction of the cationic dye brilliant blue RL in the dye solution is 2% owf, the concentration of KFS is 0.7g/L, and the concentration of sodium sulfate is 2g/L; the dyeing bath ratio is 1:23;
(5)还原清洗;(5) Reduction cleaning;
染色结束后,对步骤(4)得到的面料进行还原清洗,制得基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料;其中,清洗液由3g/L的保险粉、0.7g/L的氢氧化钠和余量的水组成;还原清洗的温度为79℃,时间为13min,浴比为1:21。After dyeing, the fabric obtained in step (4) is subjected to reduction cleaning to obtain Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment; wherein the cleaning solution consists of 3 g/L of hydrophobic powder, 0.7 g/L of sodium hydroxide and the remainder of water; the reduction cleaning temperature is 79° C., the time is 13 min, and the bath ratio is 1:21.
制得的基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的吸水率为210%,吸水速率为30%/s,单向传递指数为170,垂直芯吸高度为78mm,上染率为87%,耐摩擦牢度为3-4级,耐皂洗牢度为3-4级。The water absorption rate of the prepared Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment is 210%, the water absorption rate is 30%/s, the one-way transfer index is 170, the vertical wicking height is 78mm, the dyeing rate is 87%, the friction fastness is level 3-4, and the soap washing fastness is level 3-4.
实施例4Example 4
一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,具体步骤如下:A method for preparing Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment, the specific steps are as follows:
(1)原料的准备;(1) Preparation of raw materials;
纬纱为含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱,疏水Porel纤维的含量为92wt%,纬纱的规格为12S/1,92P/8SP,其制备方法为:在环锭纱机上,将粗细为40D的氨纶长丝喂入前罗拉,同时将粗细为330dtex的Porel纤维喂入后罗拉,将氨纶长丝和Porel纤维汇合后在加捻三角区经过加捻得到捻系数为320的弹性包芯纱后进行疏水处理即得含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱,其中,氨纶长丝的牵伸倍数3.9,后区牵伸倍数为1.2,预牵伸倍数为5;The weft yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn containing hydrophobic Porel fiber, the content of the hydrophobic Porel fiber is 92wt%, and the specification of the weft yarn is 12S/1, 92P/8SP. The preparation method is as follows: on a ring spinning machine, a spandex filament with a thickness of 40D is fed into a front roller, and a Porel fiber with a thickness of 330dtex is fed into a rear roller, the spandex filament and the Porel fiber are combined, twisted in a twisting triangle area to obtain an elastic core-spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 320, and then hydrophobic treatment is performed to obtain the elastic core-spun yarn containing the hydrophobic Porel fiber, wherein the drafting multiple of the spandex filament is 3.9, the drafting multiple of the rear area is 1.2, and the pre-drafting multiple is 5;
对弹性包芯纱进行疏水处理的过程为:将弹性包芯纱浸泡在温度为30℃的疏水整理液中40min后,在91℃下预烘4min,再在116℃下焙烘1min,其中,疏水整理液是通过将疏水整理剂和交联剂溶解在水中后调节pH值至6得到的;疏水整理液中疏水整理剂的浓度为70g/L,交联剂的浓度为1g/L,浸泡时弹性包芯纱与疏水整理液的质量比为1:35;疏水整理剂为聚二甲基硅氧烷(JZH-203);交联剂为多元羧酸(CA);The process of hydrophobic treatment of elastic core-spun yarn is as follows: soak the elastic core-spun yarn in a hydrophobic finishing liquid at a temperature of 30°C for 40 minutes, pre-bake at 91°C for 4 minutes, and then bake at 116°C for 1 minute, wherein the hydrophobic finishing liquid is obtained by dissolving a hydrophobic finishing agent and a cross-linking agent in water and then adjusting the pH value to 6; the concentration of the hydrophobic finishing agent in the hydrophobic finishing liquid is 70g/L, the concentration of the cross-linking agent is 1g/L, and the mass ratio of the elastic core-spun yarn to the hydrophobic finishing liquid during immersion is 1:35; the hydrophobic finishing agent is polydimethylsiloxane (JZH-203); the cross-linking agent is polycarboxylic acid (CA);
经纱为由粗细为330dtex的Porel纤维组成的纱线,经纱的规格为10S/1,100%P;The warp yarn is composed of Porel fiber with a thickness of 330 dtex, and the specification of the warp yarn is 10S/1, 100% P;
(2)织造;(2) Weaving;
将纬纱和经纱织造成面料;Weaving weft and warp yarns into fabric;
制得的面料的总紧度为67%,组织的交织频率为0.3,组织结构为2上1下/左斜,经纬密为60×50;The total tightness of the fabric is 67%, the interlacing frequency of the fabric is 0.3, the fabric structure is 2 up and 1 down/left oblique, and the warp and weft density is 60×50;
(3)疏水涂层整理;(3) Hydrophobic coating finishing;
首先将聚二甲基硅氧烷(JZH-203)与浓度为57wt%的海藻酸钠糊混合得到疏水整理剂浓度为8wt%的色浆,然后通过丝网印花的方式将色浆整理到步骤(2)制得的面料反面,接着将面料在88℃下预烘3min,再在125℃下焙烘3min,最后水洗去除面料反面的海藻酸钠;First, polydimethylsiloxane (JZH-203) and sodium alginate paste with a concentration of 57wt% are mixed to obtain a color paste with a hydrophobic finishing agent concentration of 8wt%, and then the color paste is finished on the reverse side of the fabric obtained in step (2) by screen printing, and then the fabric is pre-baked at 88°C for 3min, and then baked at 125°C for 3min, and finally washed with water to remove the sodium alginate on the reverse side of the fabric;
(4)染色;(4) Staining;
首先在30℃的温度条件下将步骤(3)疏水涂层整理后的面料加入到染液中,接着以2.4℃/min的升温速率升温至68℃后保温25min,最后以0.9℃/min的升温速率升温至88℃后保温55min;染液是通过将阳离子蓝X-GRRL、KFS和元明粉加入到水中后调节体系的pH值为6得到的,染液中阳离子蓝X-GRRL的质量分数为3%owf,KFS的浓度为0.8g/L,元明粉的浓度为2g/L;染色的浴比为1:27;First, the fabric treated with the hydrophobic coating in step (3) is added to the dyeing solution at a temperature of 30°C, then the temperature is increased to 68°C at a heating rate of 2.4°C/min and then kept warm for 25 minutes, and finally the temperature is increased to 88°C at a heating rate of 0.9°C/min and then kept warm for 55 minutes; the dyeing solution is obtained by adding cationic blue X-GRRL, KFS and sodium sulfate to water and then adjusting the pH value of the system to 6, the mass fraction of cationic blue X-GRRL in the dyeing solution is 3% owf, the concentration of KFS is 0.8g/L, and the concentration of sodium sulfate is 2g/L; the bath ratio of dyeing is 1:27;
(5)还原清洗;(5) Reduction cleaning;
染色结束后,对步骤(4)得到的面料进行还原清洗,制得基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料;其中,清洗液由3g/L的保险粉、0.9g/L的氢氧化钠和余量的水组成;还原清洗的温度为82℃,时间为12min,浴比为1:25。After dyeing, the fabric obtained in step (4) is subjected to reduction cleaning to obtain Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment; wherein the cleaning solution consists of 3 g/L of hydrophobic powder, 0.9 g/L of sodium hydroxide and the remainder of water; the reduction cleaning temperature is 82° C., the time is 12 min, and the bath ratio is 1:25.
制得的基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的吸水率为230%,吸水速率为35%/s,单向传递指数为200,垂直芯吸高度为85mm,上染率为86%,耐摩擦牢度为3-4级,耐皂洗牢度为3-4级。The water absorption rate of the prepared Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment is 230%, the water absorption rate is 35%/s, the one-way transfer index is 200, the vertical wicking height is 85mm, the dyeing rate is 86%, the friction fastness is level 3-4, and the soap washing fastness is level 3-4.
实施例5Example 5
一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,具体步骤如下:A method for preparing Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment, the specific steps are as follows:
(1)原料的准备;(1) Preparation of raw materials;
纬纱为含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱,疏水Porel纤维的含量为92wt%,纬纱的规格为15S/1,92P/8SP,其制备方法为:在环锭纱机上,将粗细为40D的氨纶长丝喂入前罗拉,同时将粗细为350dtex的Porel纤维喂入后罗拉,将氨纶长丝和Porel纤维汇合后在加捻三角区经过加捻得到捻系数为330的弹性包芯纱后进行疏水处理即得含疏水Porel纤维的弹性包芯纱,其中,氨纶长丝的牵伸倍数4,后区牵伸倍数为1.2,预牵伸倍数为5;The weft yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn containing hydrophobic Porel fiber, the content of the hydrophobic Porel fiber is 92wt%, and the specification of the weft yarn is 15S/1, 92P/8SP. The preparation method is as follows: on a ring spinning machine, a spandex filament with a thickness of 40D is fed into a front roller, and a Porel fiber with a thickness of 350dtex is fed into a rear roller, the spandex filament and the Porel fiber are combined, twisted in a twisting triangle area to obtain an elastic core-spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 330, and then hydrophobic treatment is performed to obtain the elastic core-spun yarn containing the hydrophobic Porel fiber, wherein the drafting multiple of the spandex filament is 4, the drafting multiple of the rear area is 1.2, and the pre-drafting multiple is 5;
对弹性包芯纱进行疏水处理的过程为:将弹性包芯纱浸泡在温度为30℃的疏水整理液中45min后,在95℃下预烘5min,再在120℃下焙烘1min,其中,疏水整理液是通过将疏水整理剂和交联剂溶解在水中后调节pH值至6得到的;疏水整理液中疏水整理剂的浓度为80g/L,交联剂的浓度为1g/L,浸泡时弹性包芯纱与疏水整理液的质量比为1:40;疏水整理剂为聚硅氧烷改性水性聚氨酯(SPU);交联剂为醚化羟甲基三聚氰胺;The process of hydrophobic treatment of elastic core-spun yarn is as follows: soak the elastic core-spun yarn in a hydrophobic finishing liquid at a temperature of 30°C for 45 minutes, pre-bake at 95°C for 5 minutes, and then bake at 120°C for 1 minute, wherein the hydrophobic finishing liquid is obtained by dissolving a hydrophobic finishing agent and a cross-linking agent in water and then adjusting the pH value to 6; the concentration of the hydrophobic finishing agent in the hydrophobic finishing liquid is 80g/L, the concentration of the cross-linking agent is 1g/L, and the mass ratio of the elastic core-spun yarn to the hydrophobic finishing liquid during immersion is 1:40; the hydrophobic finishing agent is polysiloxane-modified waterborne polyurethane (SPU); the cross-linking agent is etherified hydroxymethyl melamine;
经纱为由粗细为340dtex的Porel纤维组成的纱线,经纱的规格为10S/1,100%P;The warp yarn is composed of Porel fiber with a thickness of 340 dtex, and the specification of the warp yarn is 10S/1, 100% P;
(2)织造;(2) Weaving;
将纬纱和经纱织造成面料;Weaving weft and warp yarns into fabric;
制得的面料的总紧度为70%,组织的交织频率为0.4,组织结构为2上1下/左斜,经纬密为60×50;The total tightness of the fabric is 70%, the interlacing frequency of the fabric is 0.4, the fabric structure is 2 up and 1 down/left oblique, and the warp and weft density is 60×50;
(3)疏水涂层整理;(3) Hydrophobic coating finishing;
首先将聚硅氧烷改性水性聚氨酯(SPU)与浓度为60wt%的海藻酸钠糊混合得到疏水整理剂浓度为12wt%的色浆,然后通过丝网印花的方式将色浆整理到步骤(2)制得的面料反面,接着将面料在90℃下预烘2min,再在125℃下焙烘3min,最后水洗去除面料反面的海藻酸钠;First, polysiloxane-modified waterborne polyurethane (SPU) is mixed with sodium alginate paste with a concentration of 60 wt% to obtain a color paste with a hydrophobic finishing agent concentration of 12 wt%, and then the color paste is finished on the reverse side of the fabric obtained in step (2) by screen printing, and then the fabric is pre-baked at 90° C. for 2 min, and then baked at 125° C. for 3 min, and finally washed with water to remove the sodium alginate on the reverse side of the fabric;
(4)染色;(4) Staining;
首先在30℃的温度条件下将步骤(3)疏水涂层整理后的面料加入到染液中,接着以2.5℃/min的升温速率升温至70℃后保温25min,最后以1℃/min的升温速率升温至85℃后保温60min;染液是通过将阳离子红2GL、KFS和元明粉加入到水中后调节体系的pH值为6得到的,染液中阳离子红2GL的质量分数为4%owf,KFS的浓度为1g/L,元明粉的浓度为2g/L;染色的浴比为1:30;First, the fabric treated with the hydrophobic coating in step (3) is added to the dyeing solution at a temperature of 30°C, then the temperature is increased to 70°C at a heating rate of 2.5°C/min and then kept warm for 25 minutes, and finally the temperature is increased to 85°C at a heating rate of 1°C/min and then kept warm for 60 minutes; the dyeing solution is obtained by adding cationic red 2GL, KFS and sodium sulfate to water and then adjusting the pH value of the system to 6, the mass fraction of cationic red 2GL in the dyeing solution is 4% owf, the concentration of KFS is 1g/L, and the concentration of sodium sulfate is 2g/L; the bath ratio of dyeing is 1:30;
(5)还原清洗;(5) Reduction cleaning;
染色结束后,对步骤(4)得到的面料进行还原清洗,制得基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料;其中,清洗液由3g/L的保险粉、1g/L的氢氧化钠和余量的水组成;还原清洗的温度为85℃,时间为10min,浴比为1:30。After dyeing, the fabric obtained in step (4) is subjected to reduction cleaning to obtain Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment; wherein the cleaning solution consists of 3 g/L of hydrophobic powder, 1 g/L of sodium hydroxide and the remainder of water; the reduction cleaning temperature is 85° C., the time is 10 min, and the bath ratio is 1:30.
制得的基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的吸水率为220%,吸水速率为28%/s,单向传递指数为180,垂直芯吸高度为80mm,上染率为88%,耐摩擦牢度为3-4级,耐皂洗牢度为3-4级。The water absorption rate of the prepared Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment is 220%, the water absorption rate is 28%/s, the one-way transfer index is 180, the vertical wicking height is 80mm, the dyeing rate is 88%, the friction fastness is level 3-4, and the soap washing fastness is level 3-4.
实施例6Example 6
一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,基本同实施例1,不同之处仅在于实施例6没有步骤(3)(即不经过疏水涂层整理)。A method for preparing Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment is basically the same as Example 1, except that Example 6 does not have step (3) (i.e., no hydrophobic coating treatment).
制得的基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的吸水率为165%,浸水面的吸水速率为20%/s,单向传递指数为145,垂直芯吸高度为60mm,上染率为90%,耐摩擦牢度为3-4级,耐皂洗牢度为3-4级。The water absorption rate of the Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft yarn hydrophobic treatment is 165%, the water absorption rate of the soaked surface is 20%/s, the one-way transfer index is 145, the vertical wicking height is 60mm, the dyeing rate is 90%, the friction fastness is level 3-4, and the soap washing fastness is level 3-4.
实施例7Example 7
一种基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的制备方法,基本同实施例2,不同之处仅在于实施例6没有步骤(3)(即不经过疏水涂层整理)。A method for preparing Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment is basically the same as Example 2, except that Example 6 does not have step (3) (i.e., no hydrophobic coating treatment).
制得的基于纬纱疏水处理的Porel仿牛仔面料的吸水率为171%,吸水速率为23%/s,单向传递指数为152,垂直芯吸高度为64mm,上染率为92%,耐摩擦牢度为3-4级,耐皂洗牢度为3-4级。The water absorption of the Porel imitation denim fabric based on weft hydrophobic treatment is 171%, the water absorption rate is 23%/s, the one-way transfer index is 152, the vertical wicking height is 64mm, the dyeing rate is 92%, the friction fastness is level 3-4, and the soap washing fastness is level 3-4.
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