CN113952282B

CN113952282B - Composition with whitening and sunscreen effects and preparation method and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN113952282B
Application number: CN202111427415.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 邹倩; 陈佳龄; 孟潇; 陈庆生
Original assignee: Guangzhou Huanya Cosmetic Science and Technology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Huanya Cosmetic Science and Technology Co Ltd
Priority date: 2021-11-25
Filing date: 2021-11-25
Publication date: 2023-03-21
Anticipated expiration: 2041-11-25
Also published as: CN113952282A

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and discloses a composition with whitening and sunscreen effects, and a preparation method and application thereof. The composition comprises a skin protectant and a sunscreen; the skin protectant comprises at least three of 4-butylresorcinol, ergothioneine, paeonol, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, and artemia salina extract. According to the composition, at least three of 4-butyl resorcinol, ergothioneine, paeonol, tetrahydro-methylpyrimidine carboxylic acid and artemia salina extracts are combined to serve as a skin protective agent, so that the components are synergistic, and the excellent whitening and brightening effects are achieved; and then the skin protective agent is matched with the sun-screening agent, so that the composition has a sun-screening effect and simultaneously further remarkably improves the whitening and brightening effects. The composition is used in a base make-up product, and has the effects of preventing sun and improving the skin glossiness on the basis of isolating and concealing effects.

Description

Composition with whitening and sunscreen effects and preparation method and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composition with whitening and sunscreen effects, and a preparation method and application thereof.

Background

The basic base makeup is an important product for daily makeup of consumers as a cosmetic product with the functions of decoration and covering. Broadly speaking, the base make-up products include foundation liquid, foundation cream, concealer, foundation cream, BB/CC cream, air cushion BB/CC cream, facial make-up cream, etc. The foundation liquid has the advantages of large water content, fresh texture, light and thin makeup effect and the like, and is particularly suitable for daily use.

The base makeup product is the first step of makeup and the last step of skin care, and can prevent dust and the like in the air from entering the skin, so that a certain protection effect can be achieved. Most of the traditional base makeup products achieve the purposes of whitening and concealing blemishes by using various physical whitening agents, and have single effect.

Disclosure of Invention

The present invention is directed to solving at least one of the problems of the prior art described above. Therefore, the composition with the whitening and sunscreen effects, and the preparation method and the application thereof are provided, the composition has the remarkable whitening and sunscreen effects, and when the composition is used in a foundation product, the foundation product can have the effects of sun screening and skin glossiness improvement.

In a first aspect the present invention provides a composition comprising a skin protectant and a sunscreen; the skin protectant comprises at least three of 4-butylresorcinol, ergothioneine, paeonol, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, and artemia salina extract.

The skin protective agent of the invention has the following effects of the components:

4-butyl resorcinol can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase in the skin, block the formation of melanin, and accelerate the decomposition and metabolism of melanin by directly combining with tyrosinase, thereby reducing skin pigmentation, removing color spots and freckles, having no toxic or side effects such as toxicity, irritation, sensitization and the like on melanocyte, and simultaneously having the effects of killing bacteria and diminishing inflammation.

Ergothioneine has absorption wavelength similar to that of DNA in ultraviolet absorption range, can effectively protect against damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, has strong antioxidant capacity, can maintain 70% of cells to have reducibility under the condition of continuous ultraviolet irradiation for 18 hours, can inhibit the formation of various active oxides, lipid peroxidation and apoptosis of irradiated cells, and has the effects of preventing radiation, whitening, delaying aging and the like.

The paeonol can obviously absorb UVB ultraviolet rays, has wide coverage, can be used as a sunscreen agent of cosmetics, and also has certain effects of resisting oxidation, diminishing inflammation, whitening and removing freckles.

The tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid, also known as ectoine, is an amino acid derivative, has a remarkable repairing effect on cell damage caused by ultraviolet rays, can remarkably increase the moisture content of skin, has a long-term moisturizing effect, can also remarkably improve the activity of fibroblasts, stimulates the proliferation of the fibroblasts, promotes the synthesis of collagen, thereby enhancing the elasticity of the skin, fading wrinkles and slowing down the aging of the skin.

The artemia salina extract is a unique extracting solution from marine plankton, can help to resist DNA damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, can stimulate and protect skin against environmental stress, enhances the keeping and repairing capability, effectively delays skin aging, and also has the effects of moisturizing and soothing allergy.

According to the invention, at least three of 4-butyl resorcinol, ergothioneine, paeonol, tetrahydro-methylpyrimidine carboxylic acid and artemia salina extract are used as skin protective agents, so that the components are synergistic, and the skin whitening and brightening effects are excellent; and then the skin protective agent is matched with the sun-screening agent, so that the composition has a sun-screening effect and simultaneously further remarkably improves the whitening and brightening effects. The composition disclosed by the invention is used in a base makeup product, the base makeup product has the effects of preventing sunburn and improving skin glossiness on the basis of the effects of isolating and concealing, the multiple protection effects on the skin are realized, the use is convenient, the makeup steps can be reduced for consumers, and the influence on the makeup effect caused by the use of whitening products and sunscreen products before makeup is avoided.

Preferably, the skin protectant agent includes, but is not limited to, a combination of 4-butylresorcinol, ergothioneine, and paeonol, or a combination of 4-butylresorcinol, ergothioneine, and tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, or a combination of 4-butylresorcinol, ergothioneine, and artemia extract, or a combination of 4-butylresorcinol, paeonol, and tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, or a combination of 4-butylresorcinol, paeonol, and artemia extract, or a combination of 4-butylresorcinol, ergothioneine, paeonol, and tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, or a combination of 4-butylresorcinol, ergothioneine, paeonol, and artemia extract, or a combination of 4-butylresorcinol, ergothioneine, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, and artemia extract, or a combination of 4-butylresorcinol, ergothioneine, paeonol, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, and artemia extract; more preferably, the skin protectant agent comprises a combination of 4-butylresorcinol, ergothioneine, paeonol, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, and artemia salina extract.

Preferably, the skin protectant comprises, by mass, 0.5-2 parts of 4-butylresorcinol, 0.1-0.5 part of ergothioneine, 0.1-0.5 part of paeonol, 0.1-1 part of tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid and 0.5-2 parts of artemia salina extract.

Preferably, the sunscreen comprises at least one of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, hexyl diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, and phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid. More preferably, the sunscreen comprises at least four of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, hexyl diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

A second aspect of the invention provides a process for the preparation of a composition according to the invention, comprising the steps of:

mixing said skin protectant and said sunscreen to provide said composition.

A third aspect of the invention provides the use of a composition according to the invention for the preparation of a cosmetic product.

Based on the above application, the present invention provides a cosmetic comprising the composition of the present invention.

Preferably, the cosmetic comprises a make-up base product.

In a fourth aspect, the invention provides a liquid foundation comprising the composition of the invention and an adjuvant.

Preferably, the adjuvants include a colorant, an emollient, an emulsifier, and a film-forming agent.

Preferably, the colorant comprises at least one of titanium dioxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, and black iron oxide; more preferably, the colorants include titanium dioxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, and black iron oxide.

Preferably, the emollient comprises at least one of dimethicone, cetyl ethylhexanoate, phenyl trimethicone, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate; more preferably, the emollient comprises at least three of polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl ethylhexanoate, phenyl trimethicone, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.

Preferably, the emulsifier comprises at least one of sorbitan sesquioleate, lauryl PEG-9 dimethiconoethyl dimethicone, and PEG-10 dimethicone; more preferably, the emulsifier comprises at least two of sorbitan sesquioleate, lauryl PEG-9 dimethiconoethyl dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone.

Preferably, the film former includes at least one of an acrylic/dimethicone copolymer and a VP/hexadecene copolymer.

Preferably, the foundation fluid further comprises EDTA-2Na, sodium chloride, butanediol, xanthan gum, disteardimonium hectorite, p-hydroxyacetophenone and phenoxyethanol.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

1. according to the composition, at least three of 4-butyl resorcinol, ergothioneine, paeonol, tetrahydro-methylpyrimidine carboxylic acid and artemia salina extracts are combined to serve as a skin protective agent, so that the components are synergistic, and the excellent whitening and brightening effects are achieved; and then the skin protective agent is matched with the sun-screening agent, so that the composition has a sun-screening effect and further obviously improves the whitening and brightening effects.

2. The composition is used in a base make-up product, and has the effects of preventing sun and improving the skin glossiness on the basis of isolating and concealing effects.

Detailed Description

In order to make the technical solutions of the present invention more apparent to those skilled in the art, the following examples are given for illustration. It should be noted that the following examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claimed invention.

The starting materials, reagents or apparatuses used in the following examples are, unless otherwise specified, either commercially available from conventional sources or can be obtained by known methods.

Examples 1 to 10 each provide a whitening sunscreen lotion having the formula shown in table 1.

TABLE 1 examples 1-10 formulations

Examples 11-20 each provide a whitening sunscreen lotion having the formula shown in table 2.

Table 2 examples 11-20 formulations

The whitening sunscreen lotion provided by the above embodiments 1-20 is prepared by the following steps:

s1, weighing the components in proportion, and grinding the colorant;

s2, uniformly stirring and dispersing disteardimonium hectorite, a coloring agent, an emulsifying agent, an emollient, a film forming agent and a sunscreen agent (except for phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid) at 80 ℃ to obtain an oil phase;

s3, completely stirring and dissolving EDTA-2Na, sodium chloride, butanediol, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone and water at 80 ℃ to obtain a water phase;

s4, slowly pumping the water phase into the oil phase at 80 ℃, homogenizing for 10-20min in a high-speed homogenizer at the rotating speed of 2000-3000rpm, and completely emulsifying to obtain a material body;

and S5, when the material body is cooled to 40-45 ℃, adding a skin protective agent, phenoxyethanol and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, homogenizing in a high-speed homogenizer for 2-4min, and defoaming in vacuum to obtain the whitening sunscreen foundation liquid.

Comparative examples 1 to 10 each provide a whitening sunscreen lotion having the formulation shown in table 3.

TABLE 3 COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES 1-10 FORMULATIONS

Comparative examples 11 to 16 each provide a whitening sunscreen lotion having the formulation shown in table 4.

TABLE 4 COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES 11-16 FORMULATIONS

Comparative examples 17 to 22 each provide a whitening sunscreen lotion having the formulation shown in table 5.

TABLE 5 COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES 17-22 FORMULATIONS

The preparation methods of the whitening sunscreen lotion provided in the comparative examples 1 to 22 are the same as the examples.

Test 1: patch test

Examples 1-20 were tested in patch tests to detect their potential for causing adverse skin reactions in humans. The test was carried out according to the method of cosmetic safety technical Specification (2015 edition) -test for patches on human skin. For each sample, 10 volunteers 18-60 years old (5 each for male and female) were selected as subjects. The sample (test substance) is added into a spot tester in an amount of 0.020-0.025g. Control wells were blank (without any material). The plaque test device with the tested substance is applied to the bent side of the forearm of the tested person by using a non-irritating adhesive tape, and the bent side is lightly pressed by the palm of the hand to be uniformly applied to the skin. The test site is marked for easy observation. The patch is applied every 24h, 30min after the patch is uncovered, and skin reaction is observed after the indentation disappears. If the reaction is suspicious or positive, stopping the spot test of the subject; if the reaction is negative, the spot-pasting test is continuously carried out on the same tested part of the subject, and the spot-pasting test is repeatedly carried out for 6 times. The test population response results are recorded as in table 6. The test results are shown in table 7.

TABLE 6 grading Standard of adverse skin reactions

Grade	(symbol)	Identification criteria
			0	-	Negative reaction: has no irritation and erythema
1	±	And (3) suspicious reaction: mild erythema
			2	+	Weak positive reaction: erythema
3	++	Strong positive reaction: erythema, papules, blisters
			4	+++	Extremely strong positive reaction: severe edema and bulla

TABLE 7 Patch test results

The data from table 7 show: the skin of all the subjects showed negative reactions (rating: 0) in the foundation solutions prepared in examples 1 to 20, indicating that the foundation solutions prepared in the present invention did not cause any allergy or irritation to the skin, indicating that the present invention is superior in mildness and safety.

Test 2: test of whitening and brightening effects

126 healthy female subjects are selected to firstly carry out standardized facial cleaning, a fixed body position is kept in a constant temperature and humidity environment (21 +/-1) DEG C, 50% +/-5%) to balance for 20min, and then a Visia CR facial image analyzer is used for collecting a facial basic image. After they used examples 1-20 and comparative examples 1-22 for 14 days, standardized facial cleansing was first performed, and after keeping the immobilized body in a constant temperature and humidity environment ((21 + -1) ° c, 50% + -5%) for 20min, images of the face were collected using a Visia CR facial image analyzer. Image Pro Plus software was used to calculate skin gloss before and after sample application. Gloss improvement = sample after use gloss-sample before use gloss. The test results are shown in Table 8.

TABLE 8 skin gloss improvement values

As can be seen from the gloss improvement values of examples 1 to 20 in Table 8, the foundation of the present invention can significantly improve the skin gloss, i.e., has a significant whitening and brightening effect. The gloss improvement values of examples 7 to 10 and example 15 are smaller than those of other examples, and it can be seen from tables 1 and 2 that 4-butyl resorcinol is not added in examples 7 to 10 and example 15, which indicates that the whitening and brightening effects are mainly achieved by 4-butyl resorcinol in the skin protectant, and other components in the skin protectant play a synergistic role. As can be seen from table 2, the skin protecting agent of example 17 is added in a lower amount than that of example 16, and the skin protecting agent of example 18 is added in a higher amount than that of example 16, indicating that the higher the content of the skin protecting agent, the stronger the ability to improve the gloss improvement value.

In addition, compared with examples 1 to 20, the gloss improvement values in comparative examples 1 to 16 are very small, and as can be seen from tables 3 and 4, the skin protective agent is not added in comparative example 1, and only 1 or 2 components in the skin protective agent are added in comparative examples 2 to 16, which means that at least 3 components in the skin protective agent of the present invention can synergistically exert good whitening and brightening effects. The gloss improvement value of comparative example 17 was significantly reduced compared to example 16, and it can be seen from table 5 that the replacement of 4-butyl resorcinol with phenethyl resorcinol in comparative example 17 resulted in a significant reduction in the gloss improvement value, indicating that the components in the skin protectant of the present invention were not replaceable; when the other components in the skin-protecting agent were replaced one by one with other components having similar effects (comparative examples 18 to 21), the gloss improvement values were also lower than those of the examples. In addition, compared with example 16, in comparative example 22, the gloss improvement value is significantly reduced because no sunscreen agent is added, which indicates that the whitening and brightening effects can be further significantly improved on the basis of the sunscreen agent.

Test 3: test for Sun protection Effect

Before the sample is tested, the filter disc and the standard product attached to the instrument are used for point inspection, and after all the samples are normal, the sample is tested. Measuring the background curve of the blank film, uniformly spotting a sample on a 3M adhesive tape by using a spotter, smearing the sample on the surface of the film by using a finger with a latex finger sleeve to enable the sample on the surface of the film to be at a concentration of 2 mu L/cm ² And (4) distribution. And then, putting the smeared sample plate in a constant-temperature drying box at 37 ℃ for drying, randomly selecting 6 points on a transparent film for testing by using an SPF-290AS analyzer, and finally processing data by using a workstation to obtain a corresponding SPF value. The test samples of this test experiment were the liquid foundations prepared in examples 1 to 20 and comparative examples 1 to 22, respectively. The test results are shown in table 9.

Table 9SPF value test results

From the SPF values in table 9, it can be seen that the foundation fluid of the present invention has excellent sunscreen effect, and the SPF value can satisfy daily sunscreen requirements. Wherein, the SPF values of examples 1-10 are less than those of examples 11-16, and the SPF values of examples 11-15 are less than those of example 16, and it can be seen from tables 1 and 2 that only 3 components of the skin protectant of the present invention are added to examples 1-10, 4 components of the skin protectant of the present invention are added to examples 11-15, and all 5 components of the skin protectant of the present invention are added to example 16, which indicates that the more components of the skin protectant of the present invention, the stronger the SPF value-increasing ability. The SPF of example 17 was lower and the SPF of example 18 was higher than that of example 16, and it can be seen from table 2 that the skin protectant of example 17 was added in a lower amount than example 16 and the skin protectant of example 18 was added in a higher amount than example 16, indicating that the higher the content of the skin protectant, the stronger the SPF boosting ability.

In addition, the SPF values in comparative examples 1 to 16 were significantly lower than those in examples 1 to 16, and it can be seen from tables 3 and 4 that comparative example 1 was not added with the skin-protecting agent, and comparative examples 2 to 16 were added with only 1 or 2 of the components of the skin-protecting agent, indicating that at least 3 of the components of the skin-protecting agent of the present invention synergistically exert good sunscreen effects. The SPF value of comparative example 17 was significantly reduced compared to example 16, and it can be seen from table 5 that the replacement of 4-butyl resorcinol with phenethyl resorcinol in comparative example 17 resulted in a significant reduction in SPF value, indicating that the components in the skin protective agent of the present invention are not replaceable; when the other components in the skin-protecting agent were replaced one by one with other components having similar effects (comparative examples 18 to 21), the SPF values were also lower than those of the examples. In addition, comparative example 22, in which no sunscreen agent was added, had an SPF value of almost 0, as compared with example 16, indicating that the skin-protecting agent of the present invention needs to be used in combination with a sunscreen agent in order to significantly enhance the sunscreen effect.

Test 4: sensory evaluation test

Since most users of the foundation liquid are female, 84 female volunteers with age between 22 and 35 years old are selected, and all volunteers have no history of skin disease allergy. The volunteers can use the product according to the standard and complete the evaluation work according to the requirements by matching with the working personnel, and the evaluation device has certain expression capability and can truly reflect the feeling after use. The foundation solutions prepared in examples 1 to 20 and comparative examples 1, 2, 7, 17 and 22, and 3 commercially available brands of foundation solutions (commercially available 1 to 3) were randomly distributed to volunteers, and after the same cleaning and skin care at the same time point each day, the specified foundation solution was used for 14 consecutive days to perform sensory evaluation of the foundation solution used. The evaluation items included the fitness, the brightness, the concealer level and the makeup retention. The evaluation criteria used a 10 point scale, with higher scores representing higher acceptance of the sample. The sensory evaluation results are shown in table 10.

TABLE 10 sensory evaluation of liquid foundations

As can be seen from table 10, compared with the comparative example, the whitening sunscreen lotion prepared by the invention has better brightness enhancement; compared with the commercially available foundation liquid, the whitening sunscreen foundation liquid has better fitting property, brightness improvement, concealer degree and make-up holding property.

While the preferred embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited to the details of the embodiments shown and described, but is capable of numerous equivalents and substitutions without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the claims appended hereto.

Claims

1. A composition comprising a skin protectant and a sunscreen; the skin protective agent consists of 0.5 to 2 parts by mass of 4-butyl resorcinol, 0.1 to 0.5 part by mass of ergothioneine, 0.1 to 0.5 part by mass of paeonol, 0.1 to 1 part by mass of tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid and 0.5 to 2 parts by mass of artemia salina extract;

the sunscreen agent comprises at least one of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, hexyl diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone and phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid.

2. A method of preparing the composition of claim 1, comprising the steps of:

mixing said skin protectant and said sunscreen to provide said composition.

3. Use of a composition according to claim 1 for the preparation of a cosmetic product.

4. A cosmetic comprising the composition of claim 1.

5. The cosmetic of claim 4, wherein the cosmetic comprises a foundation product.

6. A liquid foundation comprising the composition of claim 1 and an adjuvant.

7. The foundation solution of claim 6, wherein the adjuvants comprise a colorant, an emollient, an emulsifier, and a film former.

8. The liquid foundation of claim 7, wherein the colorant comprises at least one of titanium dioxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, and black iron oxide; the emollient comprises at least one of polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl ethylhexanoate, phenyl trimethicone, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate; the emulsifier comprises at least one of sorbitan sesquioleate, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane and PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane; the film forming agent comprises at least one of an acrylic acid (ester)/polydimethylsiloxane copolymer and a VP/hexadecene copolymer.