CN113730292A - Whitening essence and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents
Whitening essence and preparation method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113730292A CN113730292A CN202111078423.1A CN202111078423A CN113730292A CN 113730292 A CN113730292 A CN 113730292A CN 202111078423 A CN202111078423 A CN 202111078423A CN 113730292 A CN113730292 A CN 113730292A
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- Prior art keywords
- skin
- whitening
- oil
- water
- melanin
- Prior art date
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- 230000002588 toxic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N tyrosine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000004670 unsaturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000004383 yellowing Methods 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals. The whitening essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 40-60% of seabuckthorn fruit oil, 20-40% of plant squalane, 0.1-0.5% of phytosphingosine, 0.1-8% of glabridin, 0.1-15% of rose essential oil and 0.1-20% of lavender essential oil. The whitening essence disclosed by the invention can inhibit melanin generation, accelerate melanin decomposition, promote cuticle peeling and melanin discharge, reduce melanin deposition, whiten and lighten the skin; relieving inflammation, activating cells, improving cellular immunity, repairing skin barrier, reconstructing skin lipid membrane, and helping skin resist external stimulation; the skin care product has the advantages of effectively removing free radicals, delaying skin aging, recovering skin elasticity, resisting wrinkles and removing wrinkles; the effective components have high transdermal absorption rate and good conditioning effect.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals, and particularly relates to whitening essence and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
The color of the skin is determined by the synthesis of melanocytes, the amount, type of melanin, and the pattern of distribution around keratinocytes. Melanin is produced through a series of oxidation reactions, and when the skin is exposed to ultraviolet rays, tyrosine is oxidized by various enzymes in melanosomes of melanocytes to produce melanin, which is divided into eumelanin in black and pheomelanin in red. Melanocyte tissue transfers melanin into epidermal basal layer cells, is carried into the stratum corneum along with the metabolism of cells, accumulates in the epidermis of the skin, and is finally exfoliated and excreted along with keratinocytes. In addition to the effects of melanin on the whiteness of the skin, protein glycation in the skin, skin yellowing due to aging, hyaluronic acid and elastin denaturation and degradation due to photoaging affect the elasticity and luster of the skin, and inflammation causes the barrier function of the skin to be damaged, leading to lack of water and loss of luster of the skin, and also leading to dullness of the skin. Melanocytes are located between an epidermal layer and a dermal layer, the existing whitening products cannot effectively penetrate through skin barriers and cannot reach active sites, active ingredients cannot deeply enter the active sites to play a role, and a good conditioning effect cannot be realized.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide a whitening essence which can inhibit the generation of melanin, accelerate the decomposition of the melanin, promote the peeling of cuticle and the discharge of the melanin, reduce the deposition of the melanin, whiten and lighten the skin; relieving inflammation, activating cells, improving cellular immunity, repairing skin barrier, reconstructing skin lipid membrane, and helping skin resist external stimulation; the skin care product has the advantages of effectively removing free radicals, delaying skin aging, recovering skin elasticity, resisting wrinkles and removing wrinkles; the effective components have high transdermal absorption rate and good conditioning effect.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
the whitening essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 40-60% of seabuckthorn fruit oil, 20-40% of plant squalane, 0.1-6% of phytosphingosine, 0.1-8% of glabridin, 0.1-15% of rose essential oil and 0.1-20% of lavender essential oil.
The preparation method of the whitening essence comprises the following steps: mixing fructus Hippophae oil and phytosphingosine, heating to 90-105 deg.C, and stirring; cooling to 65-90 deg.C, adding glabridin, and stirring; cooling to 45 deg.C or less, adding plant squalane, oleum Rosae Rugosae and oleum Lavandula Angustifolia, and stirring.
A whitening composition comprises 1-20% of whitening essence, 0.1-10% of emulsifier, 1-5% of humectant, 0.1-2% of thickener, 1-5% of plant extract, 0.1-5% of other whitening active ingredients and the balance of water.
Further, the humectant comprises at least one of glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, betaine, sodium hyaluronate and allantoin.
Further, the emulsifier comprises at least one of alkyl glucoside, alkyl stearyl polyether and methyl glucoside polyethylene glycol ether stearate.
Further, the thickener is at least one of xanthan gum, polyacrylate, sodium acrylate/sodium difumacryl taurate, vinyl pyrrolidone/eicosene, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl ethyl cellulose.
Further, the other whitening active ingredients are 0.1-0.5% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 0.1-1% of niacinamide, 0.1-1% of tocopherol (vitamin E), 0.4-0.6% of phenethyl resorcinol, 0.1-0.5% of kojic acid dipalmitate and 0.1-0.5% of menthyl carbamate.
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine can inhibit melanin production; niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer; the phenethyl resorcinol, kojic acid dipalmitate and menthyl carbamate can inhibit activity of melanin-producing enzyme, and the kojic acid dipalmitate and the menthyl carbamate have good fat solubility, are more easily absorbed and utilized by skin, can moisturize and moisten the skin, can whiten and brighten the skin, can repair skin barriers and reduce irritation.
Further, the plant extract comprises a water-soluble plant extract and an oil-soluble plant extract; the water-soluble plant extract comprises at least one of arbutin, lactobacillus/rice ferment and microalgae water extract; the oil-soluble plant extract comprises at least one of grape seed oil, linseed oil and shea butter. The plant extract has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, melanin removing, skin whitening, skin brightening, free radical scavenging, antioxidant, skin aging delaying, skin tightening, water supplementing, moisture keeping, and water and oil balance regulating effects.
A preparation method of the whitening composition comprises the following steps: uniformly mixing the whitening essence, the emulsifier, the oil-soluble plant extract and oil-soluble ingredients in other whitening active ingredients to obtain an oil-phase mixture; mixing emulsifier, humectant, thickener, water soluble plant extract, water and water soluble components of other whitening active components to obtain water phase mixture; mixing the oil phase mixture and the water phase mixture, and homogenizing at room temperature for 15-20 min; the mass ratio of the emulsifier in the oil phase mixture to the emulsifier in the water phase mixture is 1: 1.5-2.
A whitening hydrogel comprises the following components in percentage by mass: the whitening composition, the silk fibroin, the polyethylene glycol and the water prepared by the preparation method are mixed according to the mass ratio of 10-60: 1:1-3.
Further, the polyethylene glycol comprises large molecular weight polyethylene glycol with molecular weight of 4500-.
A preparation method of whitening hydrogel comprises the following steps: mixing silk fibroin and water to prepare a silk fibroin aqueous solution with the concentration of 5-10 wt%; mixing polyethylene glycol with water to obtain 5-10 wt% of high molecular weight polyethylene glycol aqueous solution and 10-15 wt% of low molecular weight polyethylene glycol aqueous solution; mixing the large molecular weight polyethylene glycol aqueous solution and the silk fibroin aqueous solution, stirring for 30-60min, drying, mixing with the small molecular weight polyethylene glycol aqueous solution and the whitening composition, and stirring to form uniform gel.
The whitening composition has an oil-in-water structure with good hydrophilicity, can be uniformly dispersed in hydrogel, greatly improves the loading capacity of the whitening composition in the hydrogel, and has good stability and high activity of active ingredients. The hydrogel packaging material has good skin affinity, can promote cell proliferation and differentiation, improve the transdermal absorption rate of the effective components, has slow release effect, can prolong the action time of the effective components on skin, and improve the conditioning effect of the composition.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
the glabrous greenbrier herb has the effects of inhibiting enzyme activity in melanocytes, inhibiting melanin generation, delaying melanin generation speed, reducing melanin deposition in skin, removing freckles, lightening spots, brightening skin color, playing an endothelin antagonistic role, improving skin oxidation resistance, effectively removing free radicals and delaying aging.
The seabuckthorn fruit oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acid, can help skin resist free radicals, delay aging, recover skin elasticity, repair horny layer, activate horny cells, improve the capability of the horny cells to degrade melanin particles, effectively reduce the deposition of skin neutralizing pigments, remove freckles and fade spots, and brighten skin color.
The plant squalane has good affinity to skin and good compatibility with a skin lipid membrane; the phytosphingosine can improve the level of ceramide in stratum corneum and repair skin barriers, the phytosphingosine is used as an important substance for forming a sebum layer, and can simulate the composition structure of sebum of a human body by cooperating with components such as plant squalane and the like, so that a skin-imitated skin sebum layer is formed on the surface of the skin, the skin is helped to resist external damage, the skin barriers are repaired, the peroxidation of skin lipid ester is inhibited, the regeneration of skin cells is promoted, the skin aging is delayed, the skin metabolism is promoted, and the shedding of epidermal cells and the discharge of melanin are accelerated. Meanwhile, the plant squalane has good penetration promoting effect, can improve the transdermal absorption efficiency of the effective components, and improves the conditioning effect of the composition. The amidogen in the phytosphingosine reacts with the hydroxyl in the glycyrrhiza uralensis, and the solubility of the phytosphingosine and the hydroxyl in the glycyrrhiza uralensis can be improved, so that the addition amount of the euphorbia uralensis and the glycyrrhiza uralensis in the composition is improved, and the transdermal absorption rate of the effective components of the composition in the use process is improved.
The rose essential oil has the effects of resisting bacteria and inflammation, relieving and calming, promoting melanin decomposition, supplementing water and moisturizing, and recovering skin elasticity. The lavender essential oil can clear away heat and toxic materials, replenish water, preserve moisture, brighten skin color, remove freckles, lighten spots, tighten skin, activate cells, improve the cell autoimmune capacity and repair damaged skin barriers.
The components cooperate to effectively inhibit the generation of melanin, accelerate the decomposition of the melanin, promote the peeling of cuticle and the discharge of the melanin, reduce the deposition of the melanin, whiten and lighten the skin; relieving inflammation, activating cells, improving cellular immunity, repairing skin barrier, reconstructing skin lipid membrane, and helping skin resist external stimulation; the skin care product has the advantages of effectively removing free radicals, delaying skin aging, recovering skin elasticity, resisting wrinkles and removing wrinkles; the effective components have high transdermal absorption rate and good conditioning effect.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples, which are only preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention.
Whitening essence
Example 1
The whitening essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 40% of seabuckthorn fruit oil, 40% of plant squalane, 0.5% of phytosphingosine, 8% of glabridin, 5% of rose essential oil and 6.5% of lavender essential oil.
Example 2
The whitening essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 60% of sea buckthorn fruit oil, 20% of plant squalane, 0.5% of phytosphingosine, 8% of glabridin, 5% of rose essential oil and 6.5% of lavender essential oil.
Example 3
The whitening essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 50% of seabuckthorn fruit oil, 30% of plant squalane, 0.1% of phytosphingosine, 5% of glabridin, 10% of rose essential oil and 4.9% of lavender essential oil.
A preparation method of whitening essence comprises the following steps: mixing fructus Hippophae oil and phytosphingosine, heating to 90-105 deg.C, and stirring; cooling to 65-90 deg.C, adding glabridin, and stirring; cooling to 45 deg.C or less, adding plant squalane, oleum Rosae Rugosae and oleum Lavandula Angustifolia, and stirring.
60 qualified volunteers were selected and divided into 3 groups of 20 individuals. The samples 1 to 3 of examples 1 to 3 were mixed with water to prepare samples 1 to 3 having a concentration of 15%, and 1.5g of the samples 1 to 3 were used after each group of volunteers cleaned their faces in the morning and evening, respectively, for a test period of 7 days, to test the melanin content of the skin, the whiteness of the skin, the brightness of the skin, and the rate of change in the elasticity of the skin. The test instruments are CK MPA580 skin tester, Mexameter skin melanin and heme test probe, Colormeter skin color test probe, Cutomer skin elasticity test probe. The test results are given in the following table:
| test items | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 |
| Percentage change of melanin% | -8.85 | -8.26 | -7.91 |
| Percent change in skin whiteness% | -1.82 | -1.75 | -1.64 |
| The change rate of skin brightness% | -8.53 | -7.98 | -7.31 |
| Rate of change in skin elasticity% | 3.78 | 3.52 | 3.26 |
Therefore, the whitening essence has the effects of lightening melanin, brightening skin and tightening skin.
Whitening composition
Composition 1
A whitening composition comprises 115% of whitening essence, 6% of emulsifier, 5% of humectant, 1% of thickener, 5% of plant extract, other whitening active ingredients and the balance of water;
wherein the humectant is sodium hyaluronate and allantoin in a mass ratio of 1: 3;
the emulsifier is alkyl glucoside and methyl glucoside polyethylene glycol ether stearate;
the thickening agent is hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose;
the other whitening active ingredients are 0.5% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 1% of nicotinamide, 1% of tocopherol (vitamin E), 0.6% of phenethyl resorcinol, 0.5% of kojic acid dipalmitate and 0.5% of menthyl carbamate;
the plant extract is a water-soluble plant extract and an oil-soluble plant extract in a mass ratio of 1: 1; the water-soluble plant extract is lactobacillus/rice leavening and microalgae water extract; the oil-soluble plant extract is grape seed oil.
Composition 2
Whitening essence example 115%, emulsifier 6%, humectant 5%, thickener 1%, plant extract 5%, other whitening active ingredients, and balance water;
wherein the humectant is sodium hyaluronate and allantoin in a mass ratio of 1: 3;
the emulsifier is alkyl glucoside and methyl glucoside polyethylene glycol ether stearate;
the thickening agent is hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose;
the other whitening active ingredients are 0.5% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 1% of nicotinamide, 1% of tocopherol (vitamin E), 0.6% of phenethyl resorcinol, 0.5% of kojic acid dipalmitate and 0.5% of menthyl carbamate;
the plant extract is a water-soluble plant extract and an oil-soluble plant extract in a mass ratio of 1: 1; the water-soluble plant extract is arbutin, lactobacillus/rice leavening and microalgae water extract; the oil-soluble plant extract is grape seed oil, linseed oil and shea butter.
Composition 3
A whitening composition comprises 115% of whitening essence, 6% of emulsifier, 5% of humectant, 1% of thickener, 5% of plant extract, other whitening active ingredients and the balance of water;
wherein the humectant is sodium hyaluronate and allantoin in a mass ratio of 1: 3;
the emulsifier is alkyl glucoside and methyl glucoside polyethylene glycol ether stearate;
the thickening agent is hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose;
the other whitening active ingredients comprise 1.5% of nicotinamide, 1% of tocopherol (vitamin E), 0.6% of phenethyl resorcinol and 1% of kojic acid dipalmitate;
the plant extract is a water-soluble plant extract and an oil-soluble plant extract in a mass ratio of 1: 1; the water-soluble plant extract is lactobacillus/rice leavening and microalgae water extract; the oil-soluble plant extract is grape seed oil.
A preparation method of the whitening composition 1-3 comprises the steps of uniformly mixing whitening essence, an emulsifier, an oil-soluble plant extract and other components except nicotinamide in whitening active ingredients to obtain an oil phase mixture; mixing emulsifier, humectant, thickener, water soluble plant extract, water and nicotinamide uniformly to obtain water phase mixture; mixing the oil phase mixture and the water phase mixture, and homogenizing at room temperature for 15-20 min; the mass ratio of the emulsifier in the oil phase mixture to the emulsifier in the water phase mixture is 1: 1.5-2.
60 qualified volunteers were selected and divided into 3 groups of 20 individuals. After each group of volunteers cleaned their faces in the morning and evening, 1.5g of the whitening composition was applied for 1-3 days, respectively, with a test period of 7 days, and the skin melanin content, skin whiteness, skin brightness, skin elasticity change rate, moisture content change rate, and moisture loss change rate were tested. The test instruments are CK MPA580 skin tester, Mexameter skin melanin and heme test probes, Colormeter skin color test probes, Corneometer moisture test probes, Tewameter moisture loss probes, and Cutomer skin elasticity test probes. The test results are given in the following table:
| test items | Composition 1 | Composition 2 | Composition 3 |
| Percentage change of melanin% | -12.48 | -12.85 | -11.84 |
| Percent change in skin whiteness% | -2.35 | -2.52 | -2.17 |
| The change rate of skin brightness% | -2.24 | -2.38 | -2.11 |
| Rate of change in skin elasticity% | -5.29 | 5.58 | 5.41 |
| Rate of change of moisture content% | 25.28 | 25.64 | 24.94 |
| The change rate of water loss% | -14.86 | -15.10 | -14.63 |
Therefore, the whitening composition has the effects of lightening melanin, brightening skin color, tightening skin, replenishing water and moisturizing.
Skin whitening hydrogel
A whitening hydrogel comprises the following components: whitening composition 1, silk fibroin, polyethylene glycol and water; the whitening composition, the silk fibroin and the polyethylene glycol are mixed according to a mass ratio of 60: 1:2, total weight 63 g.
The polyethylene glycol comprises high molecular weight polyethylene glycol with the molecular weight of 5000 and low molecular weight polyethylene glycol with the molecular weight of 400, and the mass ratio of the high molecular weight polyethylene glycol to the low molecular weight polyethylene glycol is 1:1.
A preparation method of whitening hydrogel comprises the following steps: mixing silk fibroin and water to prepare a silk fibroin aqueous solution with the concentration of 10 wt%; mixing polyethylene glycol with water to respectively prepare a high molecular weight polyethylene glycol aqueous solution with the concentration of 10 wt% and a low molecular weight polyethylene glycol aqueous solution with the concentration of 15 wt%; mixing the large molecular weight polyethylene glycol aqueous solution and the silk fibroin aqueous solution, stirring for 30min, drying, mixing with the small molecular weight polyethylene glycol aqueous solution and the whitening composition, and stirring to form uniform gel.
And selecting 20 qualified volunteers, cleaning the face of the volunteer in the morning and evening, applying 7.8g of whitening hydrogel on the face for 20min, wiping the face, testing the melanin content, the whiteness, the brightness, the elasticity change rate, the moisture content change rate and the moisture loss change rate of the skin for 7 days. The test instruments are CKMPA580 skin tester, Mexameter skin melanin and heme test probes, Colormeter skin color test probes, Corneometer moisture test probes, Tewameter moisture loss probes, Cutomer skin elasticity test probes. The test results are given in the following table:
| test items | Whitening hydrogel |
| Percentage change of melanin% | -13.85 |
| Percent change in skin whiteness% | -2.76 |
| The change rate of skin brightness% | -2.49 |
| Rate of change in skin elasticity% | -5.45 |
| Rate of change of moisture content% | 26.13 |
| The change rate of water loss% | -15.24 |
Therefore, the whitening hydrogel has the effects of lightening melanin, brightening skin color, firming skin, replenishing water and preserving moisture, and is high in transdermal absorption rate of effective components and good in conditioning performance.
The whitening essence can inhibit melanin generation, accelerate melanin decomposition, promote cuticle exfoliation and melanin discharge, reduce melanin deposition, whiten and lighten skin; relieving inflammation, activating cells, improving cellular immunity, repairing skin barrier, reconstructing skin lipid membrane, and helping skin resist external stimulation; the skin care product has the advantages of effectively removing free radicals, delaying skin aging, recovering skin elasticity, resisting wrinkles and removing wrinkles; the effective components have high transdermal absorption rate and good conditioning effect.
Claims (10)
1. The whitening essence is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 40-60% of seabuckthorn fruit oil, 20-40% of plant squalane, 0.1-0.5% of phytosphingosine, 0.1-8% of glabridin, 0.1-15% of rose essential oil and 0.1-20% of lavender essential oil.
2. The preparation method of the whitening essence of claim 1, comprising the steps of: mixing fructus Hippophae oil and phytosphingosine, heating to 90-105 deg.C, and stirring; cooling to 65-90 deg.C, adding glabridin, and stirring; cooling to 45 deg.C or less, adding plant squalane, oleum Rosae Rugosae and oleum Lavandula Angustifolia, and stirring.
3. A whitening composition, characterized by comprising 1-20% of the whitening essence of claim 1, 0.1-10% of an emulsifier, 1-5% of a humectant, 0.1-2% of a thickener, 1-5% of a plant extract, 0.1-5% of other whitening active ingredients and the balance of water.
4. The whitening composition of claim 3, wherein the moisturizer comprises at least one of glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, betaine, sodium hyaluronate, and allantoin.
5. The whitening composition of claim 3, wherein the emulsifier comprises at least one of an alkyl glucoside, an alkyl steareth, and a methyl glucoside polyglycol ether stearate.
6. The whitening composition of claim 3, wherein the thickener is at least one of xanthan gum, polyacrylate, sodium acrylate/sodium dimethacrylsulfonate, vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl ethylcellulose.
7. The whitening composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the other whitening active ingredients are undecylenoyl phenylalanine 0.1-0.5%, niacinamide 0.1-1%, tocopherol (vitamin E) 0.1-1%, phenethyl resorcinol 0.4-0.6%, kojic acid dipalmitate 0.1-0.5% and menthyl carbamate 0.1-0.5%.
8. The whitening composition of claim 3, wherein the plant extracts comprise water-soluble plant extracts and oil-soluble plant extracts; the water-soluble plant extract comprises at least one of arbutin, lactobacillus/rice ferment and microalgae water extract; the oil-soluble plant extract comprises at least one of grape seed oil, linseed oil and shea butter.
9. A method for preparing the whitening composition of claim 8, wherein the whitening essence, the emulsifier, the oil-soluble plant extract and oil-soluble ingredients of other whitening active ingredients are uniformly mixed to obtain an oil-phase mixture; mixing emulsifier, humectant, thickener, water soluble plant extract, water and water soluble components of other whitening active components to obtain water phase mixture; mixing the oil phase mixture and the water phase mixture, and homogenizing at room temperature for 15-20 min; the mass ratio of the emulsifier in the oil phase mixture to the emulsifier in the water phase mixture is 1: 1.5-2.
10. The whitening hydrogel is characterized by comprising the following components: the whitening composition prepared by the preparation method of claim 9, silk fibroin, polyethylene glycol and water; the mass ratio of the whitening composition to the silk fibroin to the polyethylene glycol is 10-60: 1:1-3.
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