CN113730279A - Night skin care composition, and composition for regulating skin circadian rhythm - Google Patents
Night skin care composition, and composition for regulating skin circadian rhythm Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the field of new materials, and discloses an overnight skin care composition, which contains triol type ginseng secondary glycoside, can exist in the form of various daily chemicals, and has obvious advantages in the effects of promoting collagen growth and regulating melatonin compared with diol type ginseng secondary glycoside and commercially available ginseng primary glycoside. Another object of the present invention is to provide a daily skin care composition comprising the night skin care composition and a skin circadian rhythm control composition for skin, which can control the circadian rhythm of skin and is superior in terms of the ratio of fine lines to area, elasticity, ITA value, and gloss of skin.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of new materials, in particular to a night skin care composition and a composition for regulating skin circadian rhythm.
Background
Circadian rhythms, also known as biological cycles, refer to the fact that an organism, affected by external environmental changes, forms a "master clock" in the brain, regulating the body's activities by sending signals at different times. The biological cycle is controlled by the Suprachiasmatic nucleus (SCN). There are many environmental influences such as temperature, eating, exercise, etc., and the operation of the SCN is driven mainly by the light/dark cycle and transmits biorhythmic information to the whole body, so this "master clock" is basically consistent with day and night alternation. The circadian rhythm also persists in a constant environment over a period of about 24 hours (about one day). SCN pacing neurons are the primary nodes of a biological clock hierarchical network that drive the sleep-wake rhythm and coordinate the biological clock and numerous physiological processes in peripheral tissues, including sleep, arousal, thermoregulation, autonomic nervous system tone, feeding cycles, reward loops, mood, and movement. For example, the sleep clock is also a body temperature rhythm of a person, which has a considerable effect on how to sleep and the daytime state. The body temperature is not constant at 37 ℃, and when the external environment changes, the biological clock can correspondingly react to make the actual body temperature close to the optimal body temperature value set by the biological clock. The changes in body temperature tell the brain when to feel tired and awake. When the body temperature rises, people feel wakeful, and the brain wave frequency is usually higher. When the body temperature drops, people often feel sleepy, tired and lazy. This is a significant signal that the brain wave frequency has decreased and enters the first stage of sleep.
When the work and rest time of the individual follows the rhythm created by the natural environment, the body can be favorably in the best state, the sleeping quality is better, the mental state is better, and the work and rest time is similar to the 'natural work'. The new technology created by modern society enables people to play or work in the bright day room even in the late night, which is really the cost of the reversal of day and night when people struggle with natural strength, sleep disorder, memory decline, emotional irritability, poor immune function, and the like.
The reversal of day and night is one of the common stresses, which often occurs in shift work or in time difference reactions caused by frequent cross-time zone travel. The light cycle is the most important exogenous influencing factor of the biological cycle. The abnormal illumination causes the reversal of day and night and the disturbance of biological cycle, which are often accompanied by the abnormal metabolism of the body. The day-night reversal causes weight gain, and the daily and night food intake tends to be reversed with a reversal in light. Along with the use of electronic equipment such as electric energy illumination and computers, mobile phones and the like, the day and night period of human beings is not limited to solar illumination any more, and more chronic biorhythms are asynchronous, so that diseases such as obesity, metabolic dysfunction and the like are caused. Research shows that the influence of the reversal of day and night on the body involves multiple metabolic networks including pathways such as energy metabolism, protein absorption and interpretation, fatty acid metabolism, cholesterol metabolism and the like, thereby influencing the content of substances such as glucose, glycine, tyrosine, threonine, glutamine, cholesterol and the like. Tyrosine is a catalytic substrate for tyrosinase function and is the main raw material for finally forming the melanoidin and the pheomelanin. Melatonin has multiple physiological functions of promoting sleep, regulating jet lag, resisting aging, regulating immunity, resisting tumor, etc. Circadian rhythm disturbances result in biorhythm disturbances that require more melatonin to act on the body, leading to further metabolic disturbances. The reversal of day and night can cause the oxidative stress level of the body to be higher, and high concentration of glutathione is required to be involved in removing redundant free radicals in the body under the stress state, so that the excessive consumption of amino acid is caused, and the metabolic disorder is aggravated. The decrease of unsaturated fatty acids and the increase of cholesterol content in blood after the day and night are reversed can increase the risk of arteriosclerosis and arteriosclerosis complications, hypertension, heart disease, heart failure, renal failure, cerebral hemorrhage, etc. The night and night reversal causes sleep deprivation, which refers to a state of sleep loss due to various causes. With the acceleration of life rhythm and the increase of social pressure, sleep deprivation becomes a common phenomenon in modern society. During sleep, protein synthesis in the brain is accelerated, and new synaptic connections are established to promote learning and memory activities. Sleep deprivation may cause brain function impairment, leading to cognitive function changes such as learning and memory deterioration, distraction, disorientation, and the like, and may also cause anxiety.
In addition to the internal organs of the body being regulated by the circadian rhythm, the skin is similarly altered. As early as 2012, bayer doffer has published papers on the influence of the circadian rhythm on the differentiation of human epidermal keratinocytes in relation to several sleep research institutes in germany. Through studies of gene microarrays (micro array), more than one gene was found to exhibit significantly circadian rhythm-related expression, among which Bmal1 and Per 1. Due to the periodic concussion expression of the skin-related genes, the skin-related genes are externally shown to be increased in barrier function, increased in sebum secretion, enhanced in antioxidant capacity and minimized in cell differentiation. The skin is opened in a protective state, and the main task is to isolate and resist pressure and stimulation caused by external ultraviolet rays, pollutants and the like. With the arrival of night, the skin is switched from a defense state to a rest state, the blood circulation is accelerated, the cell proliferation rate reaches the highest, and the garbage accumulated in the day and the DNA damage are metabolized and repaired. The barrier function is weakened, the permeability is increased, and the water loss is severe. More specifically, sunlight plays an important role in controlling the human circadian rhythm and vitamin D synthesis. However, our skin is directly exposed to ultraviolet rays and harmful substances during the day, and generates a large amount of active oxygen radicals, thereby accumulating skin damage, even causing circadian rhythm disorder, and undergoing aging and oxidation reactions. Therefore, in the daytime, a mechanism for protecting the external stress is needed, free radicals can be cleared in time, and the recovery and maintenance of the life rhythm of damaged cells are very important. At night, excessive light radiation (including visible light, infrared rays, ultraviolet rays and the like accumulated in the daytime) causes 'light pollution' damage to human skin, and the human skin continuously leaks under 'light pollution' from evening to night, such as blue light generated by electronic products such as over-bright lamplight, a display, a television, a smart phone and the like, so that the disturbance of the circadian rhythm of the skin is further aggravated, and the synthesis of melatonin is inhibited, wherein the melatonin is a powerful antioxidant, the normal melatonin synthesis can repair the skin damage at night, and the inhibited melatonin synthesis can cause the skin further damage. Therefore, at night, a strong repair mechanism is needed for the skin, so that the cell proliferation and repair of the epidermis and the dermis are promoted, the normal synthesis of melatonin can be regulated, and the normal circadian rhythm of a human body is restored. Collagen is one of the most abundant secreted proteins in vertebrates, persists and is not updated basically, and the functions which are contained in human bodies in an extremely rich and undertaken are also extremely important. The secretion of collagen is primarily responsible for fibroblasts in the dermis layer of the human body. Circadian rhythms may also affect collagen synthesis, secretion and degradation, and thus disruption of circadian rhythms may cause collagen fibers to accumulate, disorganize, weaken elasticity and decrease in strength, thereby affecting skin quality (Nature Cell Biology,2020,22, 74-86). The whole night is not only harmful to the body and the spirit, but also can destroy collagen, so the circadian rhythm is very important for developing skin care active substances and products.
Ginseng has been studied for relieving anxiety, sleep disorders, and rhythm disorders, and has been mainly focused on the fields of medicines, health products, etc., by administration by injection or eating. Ginseng is known as the king of all herbs in China since ancient times and is an excellent Chinese herbal medicine with the functions of nourishing yin, tonifying life, strengthening body resistance and consolidating constitution. In Shen nong Ben Cao Jing, it is mentioned that Ginseng has the effects of nourishing five internal organs, calming the mind, calming the soul, stopping palpitation, improving eyesight, and improving intelligence. The application of the tonifying traditional Chinese medicine ginseng in China and east Asia has been for thousands of years, and the ginseng is known as a medicinal material for nourishing and strengthening the body. Ginsenoside is the main active component contained in ginseng, is also a tetracyclic triterpene saponin with strong activity, can be directly extracted or prepared from plants, is also called proto ginsenoside technically, and can be commonly understood as common ginsenoside, including Ra, Rb1, Rb2, Rb3, Rc, Rd, Re, Rf and the like. Ginsenoside has similar structure to steroid hormone, and has effects in regulating glucocorticoid, sympathetic nervous system and immune system. Research shows that under the action of medicine intervention of ginseng-grassleaf sweelflag rhizome liquid medicine, the damage condition caused by sleep deprivation is repaired to a certain extent, and the medicine intervention of ginseng-grassleaf sweelflag rhizome liquid medicine can repair or inhibit the damage of rat astrocytes and neurons caused by sleep deprivation (experimental research on the influence of ginseng grassleaf sweelflag rhizome medicine on sleep deprivation rat hippocampus IL-6R, NMDAR, Vol.29 No. 10 of Shizhen national medicine 2018). In addition, the influence of the stress of day-night reversal caused by illumination change on the energy metabolism of rats is researched by utilizing a metabonomics technology, and the intervention effect of the ginsenoside is evaluated at the same time. The results show that ginsenoside can improve the metabolism substance change caused by the reversal of day and night, and the mechanism of the ginsenoside can be used for regulating upstream metabolism pathways such as excitatory neurotransmitter and inhibitory neurotransmitter, and then changing downstream substance change (world science and technology (traditional Chinese medicine modernization), 2012,14 (06)).
Ginseng has a long history of being used as a tonic health product for beautifying and caring skin and treating diseases caused by damage. In the traditional Chinese medical prescription, a plurality of prescriptions with beauty treatment effect contain ginseng, or are used singly or are used together with other medicines and foods. Modern researches have shown that ginseng can be taken orally or externally to achieve the effects of health care, beauty treatment and skin care. The main alleged efficacy of ginseng widely used in the cosmetic field are: 1) delaying skin aging, promoting blood circulation of subcutaneous capillary, and increasing skin nutrition supply; 2) preventing and reducing skin wrinkles, resisting oxidation, and repairing cells; 3) inhibiting melanin reduction, whitening skin, and whitening and smoothing skin; 4) protecting skin luster, tendering, keeping moisture, and increasing skin elasticity. However, in the case of skin care products or research on finished products, ginseng cosmetics or raw materials are mostly added with ginseng total extracts or total ginsenosides, which are mainly derived from ginseng roots, stems, leaves, fruits, flowers, korean ginseng cosmetics are mainly red ginseng or biotransformed ginseng extracts, and some monomeric compounds of ginsenosides have been applied to cosmetics. Generally, the existing cosmetics using ginseng and its extract have the problems of unclear functional components, non-uniform standards, unstable quality and poor skin absorption. Few products are directly added with rare ginseng secondary glycoside with high purity, clear chemical components and higher biological activity. The rare ginsenosides are relative to the prototype ginsenosides. The rare ginsenoside is actually a metabolic derivative of prototype ginsenoside, cannot be directly extracted from plants, can only be obtained by converting or metabolizing the prototype ginsenoside, comprises Rg3, Rh2, Rg5, Rk1, Rk2, Rh3, Rk3 and other components, and is obtained by metabolizing or converting the prototype ginsenoside, and the rare ginsenoside components have more diversity and stronger biological activity and absorption performance and can be called as 'noble' in ginsenoside families.
Such as:
d1: CN201811476440.9 discloses a preparation method of anti-skin-aging ginsenoside Ro and application of the anti-skin-aging ginsenoside Ro in cosmetics. Skin aging is a part of the overall aging of human beings, and it is of particular interest to study it. Skin aging mainly includes natural aging, which is an endogenous programmed process, and photoaging, which is the accumulation of damage caused by contact with other environmental factors or life style, and aging mainly caused by solar ultraviolet radiation is also called photoaging. The method provided by the scheme can prepare high-purity ginsenoside Ra2, ginsenoside Ra3, ginsenoside Rs1, ginsenoside Rs2, ginsenoside Ro, ginsenoside Rc and ginsenoside Rg6 without depending on traditional repeated silica gel column chromatography, and the ginsenosides have the effect of resisting skin photoaging and can be used for preparing cosmetics for resisting skin photoaging.
D2: CN201710847003.2 relates to a composition for external use for skin containing ginsenoside F2, and more particularly to a composition containing ginsenoside F2 extracted from clean raw ginseng and ginseng leaves harvested by cultivation in a medium-cultivated ginseng hydroponics system or a spray-cultivated ginseng hydroponics system, thereby enabling to obtain ginsenoside F2 with a higher content. In addition, since the composition contains ginsenoside F2, the composition can provide not only an anti-aging effect, an improvement effect on skin moisturizing ability, an anti-inflammatory effect, an improvement effect on skin problems such as acne and atopy, a whitening effect, a sebum regulation effect, an pore contraction effect, and an improvement effect on the overall state of the skin such as improvement of complexion by improving blood circulation, but also an improvement effect on the scalp and hair state such as an anti-dandruff effect, a hair growth effect, and an effect of preventing white hair, by virtue of its excellent antioxidant ability.
D3: CN201811282724.4 discloses a diol type ginsenoside nano-emulsion and a preparation method and application thereof. The diol type ginsenoside nanoemulsion consists of the following components: water phase composed of diol type ginsenoside extract and water, oil phase and mixed emulsifier; wherein the mass ratio of the water phase to the oil phase is 5-8: 45, the mass ratio of the oil phase to the mixed emulsifier is 7.5-8: 2-2.5, the mass concentration of the diol type ginsenoside extract in an aqueous phase is 15-25%, and the sum of the contents of the diol type ginsenosides Rb1, Rb2, Rc and Rd in the diol type ginsenoside extract is not less than 38%. The prepared diol type ginsenoside nanoemulsion meets the requirement on granularity, has good skin permeability and skin retention performance, and can achieve the function of resisting skin aging by promoting collagen synthesis and inhibiting collagenase activity.
D4: CN201480025030.6 discloses a composition for external use for skin containing ginsenoside Y, more specifically, it relates to a composition for external use for skin containing ginsenoside Y, which has excellent antioxidant ability, and can provide effects of improving skin moisturizing ability, anti-inflammatory effect, skin problems such as acne and allergy, whitening effect, sebum-regulating effect, pore-shrinking effect, and improving the general state of skin such as complexion by improving blood circulation, and also can provide effects of improving scalp and hair state such as dandruff-preventing effect, hair-growing effect, and white hair-preventing effect.
D5: CN201480025174.1 discloses a skin external composition containing ginsenoside Rh 4. More particularly, the present invention relates to a composition containing ginsenoside Rh4, which is capable of providing an effect of preventing skin aging, an effect of improving skin moisturizing ability, an anti-inflammatory effect, an effect of improving skin problems such as acne, a whitening effect, an effect of regulating sebum, an effect of shrinking pores, and an effect of improving the overall skin condition such as facial color improvement through blood circulation, by an excellent antioxidant ability, and which is capable of providing an effect of improving scalp and hair conditions such as an effect of preventing dandruff, an effect of growing hair, and an effect of preventing white hair, in addition to the above effects.
In summary of D1-D5 above, we can find that there has been a recent 10 years history of studies on ginsenosides, rare ginsenosides, in the area of skin care. Numerous studies have demonstrated that many types of ginsenosides have a significant effect on skin care.
However, the current research has been temporarily dilemma in that: the ginsenoside product with obvious efficacy and clear mechanism is not available on the market due to the single function development of the ginsenoside and no combination of the requirements of an actual formula in the skin care process, especially the difference of the requirements of day and night skin care.
Disclosure of Invention
An object of the present invention is to provide an overnight skin care composition which can be present in the form of various daily chemicals and has a remarkable collagen growth promoting effect and melatonin regulating effect as compared with a diol-type secondary ginseng glycoside and a commercially available primary ginseng glycoside.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a daily skin care composition comprising the night skin care composition and a skin circadian rhythm control composition for skin, which can control the circadian rhythm of skin and is superior in terms of the ratio of fine lines to area, elasticity, ITA value, and gloss of skin.
In order to achieve the above objects, the present invention provides an overnight skin care composition comprising a triol-type secondary ginseng glycoside having the following general formula i;
r1 is independently selected from one of the following groups:
-O-Glc、-O-Xyl、-O-Rha、-O-Ara、-O-Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Lyx;
r2 is selected from one of the following groups:
in the night skin care composition, the composition contains 0.0001-50 wt% of triol type ginseng secondary glycoside.
Preferably, the composition contains 0.001-10% of triol type ginseng secondary glycoside;
more preferably, the composition contains 0.002-1% of triol type ginseng secondary glycoside;
more preferably, the composition contains 0.005-0.5% of triol type ginseng secondary glycoside.
In the above night skin care composition, the composition is one of a lotion, a essence, an emulsion, a cream, and an anhydrous formulation.
A large number of experiments prove that the triol type ginseng secondary glycoside can show excellent effects in almost all dosage forms.
In the above night skin care composition, the triol-type secondary ginseng glycoside is present in the skin care composition in the form of an active ingredient, or a shell material of a micelle, or a shell material of a liposome, or a coating material of a particle.
In the night skin care composition, the liposome is a carrier material containing a bilayer or a monolayer membrane structure, the coated substance is a hydrophilic active substance or a hydrophobic active substance or a combination of the hydrophilic active substance and the hydrophobic active substance, and the hydrophilic active substance is one or more of a hydrolyzed protein compound, a water-soluble small molecule polypeptide compound and a water-soluble small molecule compound; the hydrophobic active substance is one or more of natural or synthetic oil and fat compounds, phospholipid compounds, vitamins, carotene, carotenoid compounds, essential oil compounds and fat-soluble small molecule active substances.
More specifically, the hydrophilic active substance is one or more of hydrolyzed protein compounds (hydrolyzed fibroin polypeptide, hydrolyzed collagen polypeptide, hydrolyzed milk protein polypeptide, hydrolyzed rice protein polypeptide, hydrolyzed wool protein polypeptide, etc.), water-soluble small molecule polypeptide compounds (biotin tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, snake venom tripeptide, nonapeptide-1, etc.), water-soluble small molecule compounds (water-soluble ascorbic acid and derivatives, fruit acid, plant extract, retinol/acid, nicotinamide, phenethyl resorcinol, alpha-arbutin, bioactive oligosaccharide, polysaccharide, etc.); the hydrophobic active substance is one or more of natural or synthetic oil and fat compounds, phospholipid compounds, vitamins, carotene, carotenoid compounds, essential oil compounds, and lipid-soluble small molecule active substances (coenzyme Q-10, resveratrol, astaxanthin, etc.).
The micelle is a carrier material of a monomolecular layer membrane material, and the coated substance is one or more of natural or synthetic oil compounds, phospholipid compounds, vitamins, carotenes, carotenoid compounds, essential oil compounds and fat-soluble micromolecule active substances.
More specifically, the hydrophobic active substance is one or more of natural or synthetic oil and fat compounds, phospholipid compounds, vitamins, carotene, carotenoid compounds, essential oil compounds, and lipid-soluble small molecule active substances (coenzyme Q-10, resveratrol, astaxanthin, etc.).
As a further refinement of the present invention, the above-mentioned hydrophobic active substance and hydrophilic active substance may be selected from the following substances according to their hydrophilic and lipophilic properties: VC and derivatives, VE, astaxanthin, resveratrol, ceramide, plant extract, oil esters, protein, polypeptide, polysaccharide, etc.
In addition, the present invention provides a composition for regulating the circadian rhythm of skin, comprising a daily-use skin care composition and an overnight-use skin care composition as described in any of the above;
wherein the daily skin care composition contains diol type ginseng secondary glycoside with the following general formula II;
r3 is selected from one of the following groups:
-O-Glc、-O-Xyl、-O-Rha、-O-Ara、-O-Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Lyx;
r4 is selected from one of the following groups:
in the composition for regulating skin circadian rhythm, the daily skin care composition contains 0.0001-50 wt% of diol type ginseng secondary glycoside.
Preferably, the composition contains 0.001-10% of diol type ginseng secondary glycoside;
more preferably, the composition contains 0.002-1% of diol type ginseng secondary glycoside.
More preferably, the composition contains 0.005-0.5% of diol type ginseng secondary glycoside.
In the above composition for regulating skin circadian rhythm, the diol-type secondary ginseng glycoside is present in the daily-use skin care composition in the form of an active ingredient, or a shell material of micelle, or a shell material of liposome, or a coating material of particle.
In the composition for regulating the skin circadian rhythm, the coating substance of the liposome taking the diol type ginseng secondary glycoside as a shell material is a hydrophilic active substance or a hydrophobic substance or a combination of the hydrophilic active substance and the hydrophobic substance, wherein the hydrophilic active substance is one or more of a hydrolyzed protein compound, a water-soluble small molecule polypeptide compound and a water-soluble small molecule compound; the hydrophobic active substance is one or more of natural or synthetic oil and fat compounds, phospholipid compounds, vitamins, carotene, carotenoid compounds, essential oil compounds and fat-soluble small molecule active substances.
The coated substance of micelle with diol type secondary ginseng glycoside as shell material is one or more of natural or synthetic oil compounds, phospholipid compounds, vitamins, carotene, carotenoid compounds, essential oil compounds and liposoluble small molecule active substances.
More specifically, the hydrophilic active substance is one or more of hydrolyzed protein compounds (hydrolyzed fibroin polypeptide, hydrolyzed collagen polypeptide, hydrolyzed milk protein polypeptide, hydrolyzed rice protein polypeptide, hydrolyzed wool protein polypeptide, etc.), water-soluble small molecule polypeptide compounds (biotin tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, snake venom tripeptide, nonapeptide-1, etc.), water-soluble small molecule compounds (water-soluble ascorbic acid and derivatives, tartaric acid, plant extracts, retinol/acid, nicotinamide, phenethyl resorcinol, alpha-arbutin, bioactive oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, etc.).
More specifically, the hydrophobic active substance is one or more of natural or synthetic oil and fat compounds, phospholipid compounds, vitamins, carotene, carotenoid compounds, essential oil compounds, and lipid-soluble small molecule active substances (coenzyme Q-10, resveratrol, astaxanthin, etc.).
As a further refinement of the present invention, the above-mentioned hydrophobic active substance and hydrophilic active substance may be selected from the following substances according to their hydrophilic and lipophilic properties: VC and derivatives, VE, astaxanthin, resveratrol, ceramide, plant extract, oil esters, protein, polypeptide, polysaccharide, etc.
In the composition for regulating the skin circadian rhythm, the daily skin care composition is one of a water aqua, an essence, an emulsion, a cream and an anhydrous formula.
A large number of experiments prove that the diol type ginseng secondary glycoside can show excellent effect in almost all dosage forms.
It is expected that the scheme can also be used for related applications of food, health care products and biological medicines.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
aiming at the skin care requirement in the daytime, the diol type ginseng secondary glycoside has the defensive and inhibitory action mechanisms of anti-stress function, antioxidation, free radical elimination, photodamage resistance and the like;
aiming at the requirement of skin repair at night, the triol type ginseng secondary glycoside has the growth promoting action mechanisms of enhancing the immunologic function, promoting and regulating melatonin to synthesize related protein, thereby influencing clock genes, regulating and controlling rhythm, promoting cell metabolism and cell proliferation, accelerating the synthesis of DNA nucleic acid and protein of aged skin cells, recovering the normal physiological function of the cells and the like;
the diol type ginseng secondary glycoside and the triol type ginseng secondary glycoside are used at night, so that a very excellent nursing effect can be achieved, and the advantages of the diol type ginseng secondary glycoside and the triol type ginseng secondary glycoside are obvious compared with ginseng primary glycoside in the aspects of long-term cytotoxicity, daytime antioxidant stress scavenging free radical photoprotection effect, nighttime collagen growth promotion, circadian rhythm melatonin regulating effect, human body multidimensional effect evaluation and the like.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is the results of daily antioxidant stress, free radical scavenging, photodamage repair experiments for examples 1, 3 and comparative example 1;
FIG. 2 is the results of daily antioxidant stress, free radical scavenging, photodamage repair experiments for examples 1, 3 and comparative example 1;
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the effect of overnight collagen growth promotion of examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1;
fig. 4 and 5 show the circadian melatonin conditioning effects of examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention are further described in detail below with reference to the drawings and the detailed description, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
First part daily skin care composition and night skin care composition
Example 1
Preparation of diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution
Taking 0.1g of diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside shown as a general formula II, dissolving in 100ml of deionized water, and performing ultrasonic treatment for 10min to fully dissolve the diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside to prepare 1mg/ml diol type ginseng secondary glycoside solution;
Example 2
Preparation of triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution
Dissolving 0.1g of triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside shown as a general formula I in 100ml of deionized water, and performing ultrasonic treatment for 10min to fully dissolve the triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside to prepare 1mg/ml triol type ginseng secondary glycoside solution;
Example 3
Preparation of diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside micelle
The preparation process comprises the following steps: taking lecithin: a rare diol-type rare secondary ginseng glycoside represented by the general formula II: the mass ratio of the tocopherol acetate is 1: 2: 4, dissolving the components in absolute ethyl alcohol together, stirring for 1h at room temperature until the components are completely dissolved, wherein the total concentration of the prepared ethyl alcohol solution is 70mg/mL, and then respectively sucking the prepared ethyl alcohol solution and the anti-solvent deionized water into a syringe. Mixing the prepared lecithin ginsenoside ethanol solution and deionized water by a digital injection pump. And respectively connecting the prepared lecithin ethanol solution and deionized water to two channels of a multi-channel mixer through a digital injection pump, wherein the feeding speed is preferably 6mL/min, respectively feeding the same deionized water into the other two channels, the feeding speed is preferably 54mL/min, and the obtained diol type ginseng secondary glycoside nano-micelle liquid containing 1mg/mL flows out of an outlet and is received by a container.
Example 4
Preparation of triol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside micelle
The preparation process comprises the following steps: taking lecithin: rare triol type rare ginseng secondary glycosides as shown in general formula I: the mass ratio of the tocopherol acetate is 1: 2: 4, dissolving the components in absolute ethyl alcohol together, stirring for 1h at room temperature until the components are completely dissolved, wherein the total concentration of the prepared ethyl alcohol solution is 70mg/mL, and then respectively sucking the prepared ethyl alcohol solution and the anti-solvent deionized water into a syringe. Mixing the prepared lecithin ginsenoside ethanol solution and deionized water by a digital injection pump. And respectively connecting the prepared lecithin ethanol solution and deionized water to two channels of a multi-channel mixer through a digital injection pump, wherein the introduction speed is preferably 6mL/min, respectively introducing the same deionized water into the other two channels, the introduction speed is preferably 54mL/min, and the obtained triol type ginseng secondary glycoside nano micelle liquid containing 1mg/mL flows out of an outlet and is received by a container.
Example 5
Daily essence
The essence for daily use shown in Table 1 was prepared using 5% (mass fraction) of the aqueous solution of the diol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside described in example 1 at 1 mg/ml.
The specific formula process comprises the following steps: heating phase A to 80 deg.C, homogenizing for 3 min/time, cooling, sequentially adding mixed phase B, and adjusting pH to 5.5-6.0.
Example 6
Night essence
The night essence shown in Table 1 was prepared using 5% (mass fraction) of the 1mg/ml triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside aqueous solution described in example 2 with reference to the formulation preparation process of example 5.
Comparative example 1
Referring to examples 1 and 2, commercially available ginseng extracts were prepared without separation to prepare a solution containing 1mg/ml of total ginsenosides, the main ingredient of which was ginsenoside.
Comparative example 2
The daily-use type essences shown in Table 1 were prepared using 5% (mass fraction) of a 1mg/ml aqueous solution of commercially available ginseng protoposide described in comparative example 1, with reference to the formulation preparation process of example 5.
Comparative example 3
The night type essence shown in Table 1 was prepared using 5% (mass fraction) of a 1mg/ml aqueous solution of commercially available ginseng protoposide described in comparative example 1 with reference to the formulation preparation process of example 6.
TABLE 1 essence for circadian rhythm
And (3) performance testing:
item 1: long term cytotoxicity
Cell compatibility, long-term cytotoxicity, of examples 1-4 and comparative example 1 were tested and compared. The specific experimental operation flow is as follows: cell viability was tested using mouse fibroblast NIH 3T3 at different incubation times following treatment with the same given dose of drug 30. mu.g/mL. Cells were plated in 96-well plates, 2000 cells/well, 200. mu.L of medium and cultured overnight. The next morning, the medium was aspirated, the examples and comparative examples (total volume 100. mu.L) were added at a concentration of 30ug/ml, and the cultures were incubated at various time points (12, 24, 48, 72 h). 10 μ L of Amara blue (2mg/mL) was added to each well and stained for about 4 h. Take 100. mu.L in black well plate, test with fluorescence microplate reader, 590/550.
The experimental results are shown in table 2, and the results show that the precisely separated and transformed daily diol type ginseng secondary glycoside and night triol type ginseng secondary glycoside of the invention and the prepared nano carrier material are superior to the ginseng extract (ginseng primary glycoside) which is used in comparative example 1 and is not separated and transformed in the market. The daily diol type secondary ginseng glycoside, the night triol type secondary ginseng glycoside and the nano carrier material have good compatibility with cells, high cell survival rate and particularly obviously better long-term cell compatibility than a comparative example.
TABLE 2 Long-term cytotoxicity results
Item 2: daily use antioxidant stress, free radical removal and photodamage repair
In daytime environment, environmental pollution, ultraviolet rays and the like irradiate the skin to up-regulate active oxygen in the body, and free radicals (including oxygen ions, peroxides, oxygen-containing free radicals and the like) are accumulated in the skin, so that the oxidation state is unbalanced. To simulate the need for daytime skin care, the ability of example 1, example 3 and comparative example 1 to resist oxidative stress, scavenge free radicals and repair photodamage was tested and compared.
First, an experiment was conducted to evaluate the effect of regulating oxidative stress state and scavenging free radicals of examples and comparative examples by measuring the scavenging effect of free radicals of cells in examples and comparative examples periodically after the same treatment with hydrogen peroxide (example 1, example 3 and comparative example 1), staining intracellular ROS with DCFH-DA dye, analyzing ROS by fluorescence microscope, and evaluating the regulating effect of examples and comparative examples on oxidative stress state. The specific experimental operation is as follows: mouse fibroblast plating: six well plates, 15 ten thousand cells/well, 2mL of medium were taken and cultured overnight. The next morning, the medium was aspirated, 2mL of hydrogen peroxide (diluted by a hundred thousand times, diluted stepwise) was added, and the mixture was stimulated for 24 hours. The hydrogen peroxide solution was aspirated, washed once with PBS and aspirated, or the media was used to set concentrations of example 1, example 3 and comparative example 1, and a well plate (2mL) was added. After different time points (6, 12h) staining, medium was aspirated, DCFH-DA (diluted 1000-fold with unformulated medium) was added, and 1mL per well. Incubate for 20 minutes, wash with unformulated medium, and finally add 2mL of unformulated medium. When observed under an inverted fluorescence microscope, green color represents active oxygen. And (4) photographing and selecting a non-fluorescence cytogram, a fluorescence image and a compound image.
The results of the experimental measurements are shown in FIG. 1. As shown in fig. 1, after normal culture of fibroblasts, it can be seen that the negative control group generates a large amount of ROS radicals (strong fluorescence effect) in cells under the stimulation of hydrogen peroxide, and the fibroblasts are damaged seriously (apoptosis morphology is much), while the daily diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside example 1 and the nano-micelle example 3 thereof, which are disclosed by the invention, have very good active oxygen scavenging ability (almost no fluorescence signal of radicals) and cell repairing ability (high cell survival%) after 30ug/mL of the daily diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside example 1 and the nano-micelle example 3 thereof are added. Examples 1 and 3 have better cell repairing ability than the ginseng primary glycoside of comparative example 1, and more cell survival forms can be seen, which shows that the daily diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside (example 1) and the nano-micelle (example 3) loaded with the hydrophobic active substance have excellent antioxidant stress efficacy and active oxygen free radical scavenging ability, have more excellent daytime protective efficacy on cells, and can better cope with oxidative stress injury.
Further, the experiment was conducted to evaluate the effect of repairing UV photodamage by examples and comparative examples, which were stained with DCFH-DA dye and intracellular ROS, which were measured periodically after the same administration treatment, on the scavenging effect of cellular radicals and the repairing effect of photodamage by UV-UV stimulation on mouse fibroblasts, and the repairing effect of UV photodamage by examples and comparative examples was evaluated by analyzing ROS by a fluorescence microscope. The specific experimental operation is as follows: mouse fibroblast plating: six well plates, 15 ten thousand cells/well, 2mL of medium were taken and cultured overnight. The next morning, the medium was aspirated and the fibroblasts were irradiated with UV light from a fixed light source for 10 min. UV irradiation was stopped, a concentration of material was dispensed with the medium and added to the well plate (2 mL). After different time points (6, 12h) staining, medium was aspirated, DCFH-DA (diluted 1000-fold with unformulated medium) was added, and 1mL per well. Incubate for 20 minutes, wash with unformulated medium, and finally add 2mL of unformulated medium. When observed under an inverted fluorescence microscope, green color represents active oxygen. And (4) photographing and selecting a non-fluorescence cytogram, a fluorescence image and a compound image.
The results of the experimental measurements are shown in FIG. 2.
As shown in fig. 2, after normal culturing of fibroblasts, it can be seen that the negative control group also generates a large amount of active oxygen free radicals (strong fluorescence effect) in cells under the stimulation of ultraviolet irradiation, the fibroblasts are destroyed, and the photodamage is severe (apoptosis morphology is much), while after 30ug/mL of the daily diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside of the present invention, example 1 and the nano-micelle thereof, example 3, has very good active oxygen scavenging ability (almost no fluorescence signal of free radicals) and cell repairing ability (cell survival% is high). Examples 1 and 3 have better cell repairing ability than the ginseng primary glycoside of comparative example 1, and more cell survival forms can be seen, which shows that the daily diol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside (example 1) and the nano-micelle (example 3) loaded with the hydrophobic active substance have excellent antioxidant stress efficacy and active oxygen free radical scavenging ability, have more excellent daytime protective efficacy on cells, and can better cope with oxidative stress and photodamage.
Through the evaluation of ROS removal and photoprotection of the two oxidative stress models on the example 1, the example 3 and the comparative example 1, a consistent conclusion can be drawn that the daily-use materials of the example 1, the example 3 and the comparative example 1 have good oxidation resistance, but have better cell morphology than the comparative example 1 under the restoration of the daily-use materials of the example 1 and the example 3, particularly, more cell survival morphology can be obviously seen in an ultraviolet ray stimulation model, and the diol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside disclosed by the invention has more excellent daily protection effect on cells and can cope with oxidative stress and photodamage.
Item 3: growth promoting effect of collagen for night use
The collagen accounts for about 80 percent of the proportion of the dermis of the skin, so that the skin is full and full, the increase of the content of COL1 is promoted, and the effects of resisting wrinkles, repairing and compacting can be achieved to a certain extent. When the fibroblasts are stimulated by oxidative stress in the daytime, a large amount of ROS can be generated after UV stimulation, and cell aging is promoted. Nighttime is the optimal time for collagen repair, and to simulate the need for skin care at night, the collagen repair capabilities of examples 1-4 and comparative example 1 were tested and compared.
The specific experimental operation is as follows: culturing mouse-derived or human-derived fibroblasts; stimulating by using a fixed light source UV, adding a medicinal material and incubating with cells according to different action modes of the material, and setting an action time point; extracting RNA in cells, and detecting the expression quantity of the collagen COL-1 according to an RT-PCR determination method.
The results of the experimental measurements are shown in FIG. 3.
The examples 1 to 4 and the comparative example 1 were evaluated for the collagen growth-promoting repair by the above cell model, and the experimental results of fig. 3 show that the negative control sample after UV stimulation significantly decreased the expression of collagen COL-1. The skin care products of the day skin care examples 1 and 3 and the night skin care examples 2 and 4 can effectively activate collagen, promote the expression of COL1 and deal with oxidative stress injury. The collagen growth promoting effect of the ginsenoside is obviously better than that of the commercial ginsenoside used in the comparative example 1. Particularly, the embodiment 2 of the night skin care triol-type ginseng secondary glycoside and the embodiment 4 of the nano material thereof can provide better night collagen growth promotion and repair effects, are obviously higher than the commercial ginseng primary glycoside of the comparative example 1, and are also better than the embodiment 1 of the day diol-type ginseng secondary glycoside and the embodiment 2 of the nano material thereof, which show that the triol-type ginseng secondary glycoside is more suitable for night skin care.
Item 4: circadian rhythm melatonin modulation effect
The circadian rhythm of the organism is closely related to melatonin. After UV stimulation, the expression of melatonin-related gene protein ASMT/AANAT is obviously reduced, so that the normal circadian rhythm of cells is influenced. The protease/receptor directly related to melatonin includes AANAT, ASMT, MTNR1c, MTNR1al, MTNR1A, MTNR1B, etc., and indirectly related protein includes BMAL1, CLOCK, etc. AANAT and ASMT are two proteases involved in melatonin synthesis and can convert the precursor molecule (serotonin) in the body into melatonin. Synthetic melatonin may have a feedback regulation on the clock gene. Melatonin significantly increased the expression of CLOCK, BMAL1, PER1, PER2, CRY1 and CRY 2. The regulation effect of the medicine on the secretion and the circadian rhythm of the melatonin can be deduced by detecting the regulation effect of the medicine molecules on the AANAT and the ASMT. In order to further explore the mechanism of regulating circadian rhythm by the rare ginseng secondary glycosides during the daytime and nighttime according to the present invention, ASMT/AANAT expression capacities of examples 1-4 and comparative example 1 were tested and compared.
The specific experimental operation is as follows: culturing murine fibroblasts; UV stimulation of a fixed light source is used for interfering ASMT/AANAT of cells, melatonin synthesis and circadian rhythm of the cells are damaged, materials of examples and comparative examples are added according to different action modes of the materials to be incubated with the cells, and action time points are set; extracting RNA in cells, and detecting the expression quantity of melatonin related protein according to an RT-PCR determination method.
The experimental results are shown in fig. 4 and 5, the expression of ASMT/AANAT is significantly reduced under UV stimulation, which indicates that the melatonin synthesis and circadian rhythm of cells are damaged, and the addition of examples 1-4 can significantly promote the expression of ASMT/AANAT, thereby promoting the generation of melatonin. Examples 1-4 are significantly higher than the ginseng protoposide of comparative example 1, indicating that the examples and combinations thereof described herein are better able to modulate melatonin secretion and its associated circadian rhythms. Particularly, in examples 2 and 4, based on the night skin care material, the triol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside and the nano-carrier material formed by the triol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside can provide better melatonin generation promoting and regulating effects, and are better than the diol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside and the nano-carrier material formed by the diol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside (examples 1 and 3), so that the triol-type ginseng secondary glycoside can be better regulated and coped with damage of circadian rhythm caused by oxidative stress accumulated in the daytime at night, and the above results show that the triol-type ginseng secondary glycoside is more suitable for night skin care.
Example 7
Daily essence shown in table 1 was prepared using 5% (mass fraction) of a diol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution.
The preparation process of the diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution comprises the following steps:
dissolving 1g of diol type rare secondary ginseng glycoside shown in the general formula II in 100ml of deionized water, and performing ultrasonic treatment for 10min to fully dissolve the diol type rare secondary ginseng glycoside to prepare 10mg/ml diol type secondary ginseng glycoside solution;
Example 8
Daily essence shown in table 1 was prepared using 5% (mass fraction) of a diol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution.
The preparation process of the diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution comprises the following steps:
dissolving 5g of diol type rare secondary ginseng glycoside shown in the general formula II in 100ml of deionized water, and performing ultrasonic treatment for 10min to fully dissolve the diol type rare secondary ginseng glycoside to prepare a 50mg/ml diol type secondary ginseng glycoside solution;
Example 9
Daily essence shown in table 1 was prepared using 5% (mass fraction) of a diol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution.
The preparation process of the diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution comprises the following steps:
dissolving 10g of diol type rare secondary ginseng glycoside represented by general formula II in 100ml of deionized water (appropriate amount of solubilizer can be added), and performing ultrasonic treatment for 10min to obtain 100mg/ml diol type secondary ginseng glycoside solution;
Example 10
Referring to the formulation preparation process of example 5, using a 5% (mass fraction) triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution, night type essences as shown in table 1 were prepared.
The preparation process of the triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution comprises the following steps:
dissolving 1g of triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside shown as a general formula I in 100ml of deionized water, and performing ultrasonic treatment for 10min to fully dissolve the triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside to prepare 10mg/ml triol type ginseng secondary glycoside solution;
Example 11
Referring to the formulation preparation process of example 5, using a 5% (mass fraction) triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution, night type essences as shown in table 1 were prepared.
The preparation process of the triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside solution comprises the following steps:
dissolving 10g of triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside shown as a general formula I in 100ml of deionized water, and performing ultrasonic treatment for 10min to fully dissolve the triol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside to prepare a 100mg/ml triol type ginseng secondary glycoside solution;
By the aboveExamples 7-11 demonstrate different R1Group and R2Influence of groups on triol-type rare Ginseng Secondary glycosides, and different R3Group and R4Influence of the group on diol type rare secondary glycosides of ginseng.
It is demonstrated through a large number of experiments: different R1And R3The gene has no decisive influence on the performance of daily and night essence;
different R2And R4The groups have no decisive influence on the performance of daily and night essence.
Example 12
Skin lotions were prepared with reference to table 3.
TABLE 3 skin lotion formulation
The preparation process comprises the following steps:
heating phase A to 80 deg.C, homogenizing for 3 min/time, cooling to below 45 deg.C, sequentially adding mixed phase B and phase C, mixing, and adjusting pH to 5.5-6.0.
Example 13
Referring to the formulation of table 3, skin lotion was prepared except that the triol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside micelle solution prepared in example 4 was used.
Example 14
Referring to the formulation of table 4, a cream was prepared.
Table 4 formula of cream
The preparation method and the formula of the diol type rare ginseng secondary glycoside liposome solution are as follows:
heating phase A to 80 deg.C, heating phase B to 80 deg.C, mixing phase A and phase B, homogenizing for 3 min/time, cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding phase C, mixing, and adjusting pH to 5.5-6.0.
Example 15
The same as example 14 except that component 16 is a triol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside liposome solution.
The preparation method and the formula of the triol-type rare ginseng secondary glycoside liposome solution are as follows:
the preparation process comprises the following steps: taking hydrogenated lecithin: rare triol-type rare ginseng secondary glycosides as shown in formula I: the mass ratio of coenzyme Q-10 is 7: 2: 1 are dissolved in absolute ethyl alcohol together, stirred for 1h at room temperature until the solution is completely dissolved, the total concentration of the prepared ethyl alcohol solution is 100mg/mL, and then the prepared ethyl alcohol solution and the anti-solvent deionized water are respectively sucked into a syringe. Mixing the prepared lecithin ginsenoside ethanol solution and deionized water by a digital injection pump. And respectively connecting the prepared lecithin ethanol solution and deionized water to two channels of a multi-channel mixer through a digital injection pump, wherein the introduction speed is preferably 5mL/min, respectively introducing the same deionized water into the other two channels, the introduction speed is preferably 95mL/min, and the obtained triol type ginseng secondary glycoside nanoliposome liquid containing 1mg/mL flows out of an outlet and is received by a container.
The effect of different nanoparticles, such as micelles, liposomes, on the product properties was demonstrated by the above examples 12-15. As an optimized scheme of the invention, the micelle and the liposome not only can keep the basic performance as in functional verification of daily skin care compositions and night skin care compositions, but also can effectively coat active ingredients in a proper cosmetic system, and the shell materials of the micelle and the liposome can simultaneously play the roles of coating and serving as active ingredients.
Second part daily skin care composition and night skin care composition
Example 17
Comparison of human body efficacy
Daily essences of example 5 (containing the diol-type secondary ginseng glycoside according to the present invention) and night essences of example 6 (containing the triol-type secondary ginseng glycoside according to the present invention) shown in table 1 were prepared.
The essences are divided into two groups, wherein the first group is the daily essence and the night essence which are combined in the embodiments 5 and 6;
the second group of daily essences was obtained using example 5 (containing the diol-type secondary ginseng glycosides of the present invention); referring to the formulation of example 6, the night essence used the formulation of table 5 below (containing the diol-type secondary ginseng glycosides according to the present invention, designated as comparative example 4):
TABLE 5 night essence (comparative example 4)
The two groups of compositions are used for 4 weeks, and then the effects of firming, anti-wrinkle and whitening (brightening and skin color homogenizing) are evaluated and compared with the human body efficacy.
The specific experimental steps are as follows: n-10, all subjects were female, with a minimum age of 46 years, a maximum age of 53 years, and a mean age of 48.75 ± 2.82 years. Double-blind, random, control tests (front-back control, control group control) were used for statistical analysis of this population. Test environment temperature: 20 ℃ to 22 ℃, humidity: 40% -60%, and real-time dynamic monitoring is carried out. The test instrument is as follows: 1. VISIA-CR facial image analysis System, Canfield, USA; 2. PRIMOS-CR rapid three-dimensional imaging system of skin, PRIMOS 5.8 analytical software, Canfield, usa; 3. using a host: a multifunctional skin tester Cutometer MPA580 host machine (Cutometer skin elasticity detection probe;
colorimeter CL400 skin color detection probe; glossmeter GL200 skin gloss measurement probe). The main indexes of the test are as follows: (1) the wrinkle area fraction of the canthus lines; (2) individual type angle (ITA °): quantifying skin color by adopting three-primary color stimulation values (L, a and b) determined by the International Commission on illumination, calculating an individual type angle ITA DEG value according to a formula, and representing skin whiteness; (3) skin glossiness; (4) skin elasticity R2 values, F4 values; the average value is obtained by three times of experimental determination.
The specific test method comprises the following steps: after the face is cleaned before use, the face is smeared with moisturizing water, after drying, a proper amount of daily essence (example 5) and a proper amount of control (example 5) are respectively smeared on the skin of the product smearing side and the skin of the control side in the daytime, and a proper amount of night essence (example 6) and a proper amount of control (comparative example 4) are respectively smeared on the skin of the product smearing side and the skin of the control side in the morning and at night, wherein the daily essence and the control are respectively smeared for 1 time in the morning and at night and are continuously used for 28 days. During the trial, subjects refrain from orally or topically claiming to have anti-wrinkle, firming, lightening skin, or other agents of similar claim; the subject site is prohibited from receiving cosmetic surgery or other cosmetic modalities that may affect the anti-wrinkle efficacy test; the subject is mainly indoor activities and is prevented from being exposed to outdoor light for a long time. After the face is cleaned for 30min, using VISIA-CR and PRIMOS-CR to collect wrinkle images of the measurement areas at the smearing side and the contrast side of the product of the subject, respectively determining the analysis positions of wrinkle targets, and respectively obtaining the wrinkle area ratio at the two sides by using analysis software; and skin ITA degree value, glossiness and skin elasticity R2 value and F4 value are detected at the test site by CL400, GL200 and elasticity test probe, the measured values are taken as base line values (D0), and then product distribution is carried out and the using method is guided. Subjects were followed 14 days (D14) and 28 days (D28) after product use and were tested for the same criteria. The test of the same subject is completed by the same instrument and the same tester. The test site should be kept consistent between the two test time points.
The results of the experimental measurement are shown below.
2.1Wrinkle area/AOI area, i.e., Wrinkle area ratio
I.e. the proportion of the area of the selected area where wrinkles occupy the entire area. The lower the index value, the less the wrinkle proportion. The wrinkle-resisting effect of the product can be reflected by comparing the change of the wrinkle area ratio before and after use. The more the reduction in wrinkle area ratio at the different revisit time points compared to the baseline value before use (D0) suggests the better anti-wrinkle effect of the product. The reduction rate of the wrinkle area ratio (wrinkle area ratio before use of the product-wrinkle area ratio after use of the product)/wrinkle area ratio before use of the product × 100%.
The results of the experimental determination are shown in Table 6, and it can be seen from the results that the day and night combinations of the example groups were obtained 28 days after the day and night essence was used(example 5+ example 6)The wrinkle improvement (the wrinkle area ratio is reduced, the wrinkle improvement rate is 12.44%) is better than the combination of the control example(example 5+ comparative example 4)(the wrinkle area ratio decreased, and the wrinkle improvement rate was 6.49%).
TABLE 6 comparison of wrinkle area ratio and wrinkle area ratio improvement
2.2 analysis of skin color (ITA DEG value)
The Skin color was quantified using the values measured by Skin-Colorimeter CL400 using the tristimulus values (L, a, b) determined by the international commission on illumination, and the Individual type angle ITA ° (industrial type angle) value was calculated according to equation 1, and the Skin whiteness was characterized. ITA ° -arctan [ (L x-50)/b x 180 × pi-1
Wherein, in L, a, b chromaticity, L reflects the brightness of the color, namely the color changes from white to black, and the larger the value of L, the more the color is biased to white, otherwise, the color is biased to black; the larger the value of a, the more red the color is, and the smaller the color is, the more green the color is; the larger the value of b, the more yellow the color is, and the smaller the color is, the more blue the color is. The ITA degree is a comprehensive index of all the chromaticity values, and the higher the value is, the lighter the skin color is. The change in skin brightness can be reflected by comparing the ITA DEG values of the measurement areas before and after use. The more the values of ITA ° and L × at different revisit time points are raised compared to the baseline value before use (D0), the better the improvement of skin tone.
The results of the experimental determination are shown in Table 7, and it can be seen from the results that the day and night combinations of the example groups were obtained 28 days after the day and night essence was used(example 5+ example 6)The improvement effect (the skin color ITA degree value is improved by 7.83%) on the skin color (the ITA degree value) is obviously better than that of the combination of the control example(example 5+ comparative example 4)(skin color ITA ° value decreased by 0.24%).
TABLE 7 comparison of the skin color (ITA DEG value) improvement
2.3 skin gloss analysis
The gloss value represents the light reflectance after passing through the skin surface, characterizing the gloss of the skin surface. Corrected gloss values obtained after Diffuse Scattering Correction (DSC) of the values measured by Skin-Glossimer GL200, the lower the corrected gloss value, the higher the Skin gloss. By comparing the corrected gloss value changes before and after use, the improvement in skin gloss can be reflected. The more the gloss values at different revisit time points were increased compared to the baseline value before use (D0), suggesting that the skin gloss improvement effect was better.
The results of the experimental determination are shown in Table 8, and it can be seen from the results that the day and night combinations of the example groups were obtained 28 days after the day and night essence was used ((example 5+ example 6)) The effect of improving the skin glossiness (the effect is improved by 6.24 percent) is obviously better than that of the combination of the control example (A)Example 5+ comparative example 4) (effect decreased by 2.23%).
TABLE 8 comparison of skin gloss improvement
2.4 skin elasticity, firming effects
The R value is the ratio of the rebound displacement of the skin after negative pressure is eliminated for the first time to the maximum tensile displacement of the skin when the negative pressure is loaded for the first time, namely the R2 value of the Cutomer skin elasticity tester, and the closer the value is to 1, the better the skin elasticity is represented; the F value is the area value in an envelope curve formed during the process of applying negative pressure and eliminating the negative pressure in all test periods, namely the F4 value of the Cutomer skin elasticity tester, and the smaller the value, the tighter the skin is represented. By comparing the changes of the R2 value and the F4 value of the elasticity before and after use, the tightening effect of the product can be reflected. The more the value of R2 at the different revisit time points was increased or the more the F4 value was decreased compared with the baseline value before use (D0), suggesting that the skin elasticity-improving effect was better and the skin was firmer.
The results of the experimental determination are shown in Table 9, and it can be seen from the results that the day and night combinations of the example groups were obtained 28 days after the day and night essence was used(example 5+ example 6)The improvement effect (12.04 percent improvement) on the skin elasticity R2 is better than that of the combination of the control example(practice) Example 5+ comparative example 4)(0.54% improvement); example groups day and night combination(example 5+ example 6)The improvement effect (10.37 percent improvement) on the skin tightness F4 is better than that of the combination of the control example(example 5+ comparative example 4)(7.08% improvement).
TABLE 9 comparison of skin elasticity and firmness improvement
The above embodiments are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and any other changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications which do not depart from the spirit and principle of the present invention should be construed as equivalents thereof, and all such changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications are intended to be included in the scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. An overnight skin care composition comprising a triol-type secondary ginseng glycoside having the following general formula I;
r1 is independently selected from one of the following groups:
-O-Glc、-O-Xyl、-O-Rha、-O-Ara、-O-Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Lyx;
r2 is selected from one of the following groups:
2. the overnight skin care composition of claim 1, comprising from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight of the triol secondary ginseng glycoside.
3. The overnight skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is one of a lotion, a serum, an emulsion, a cream, and an anhydrous formulation.
4. The overnight skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the triol-type secondary ginseng glycoside is present in the skin care composition as an active ingredient, or as a shell material of a micelle, or as a shell material of a liposome, or as a coating material of a particle.
5. The night skin care composition as claimed in claim 4, wherein the coated substance of the liposome is hydrophilic active substance or hydrophobic substance or a combination of both, and the hydrophilic active substance is one or more of hydrolyzed protein compound, water-soluble small molecule polypeptide compound and water-soluble small molecule compound; the hydrophobic substance is one or more of natural or synthetic oil compounds, phospholipid compounds, vitamins, carotene, carotenoid compounds, essential oil compounds and fat-soluble small molecule active substances.
The coated substance of the micelle is one or more of natural or synthetic oil compounds, phospholipid compounds, vitamins, carotene, carotenoid compounds, essential oil compounds and fat-soluble small molecule active substances.
6. A composition for regulating the circadian rhythm of skin, comprising a daily-use skin care composition and an overnight-use skin care composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 5;
wherein the daily skin care composition contains diol type ginseng secondary glycoside with the following general formula II;
r3 is selected from one of the following groups:
-O-Glc、-O-Xyl、-O-Rha、-O-Ara、-O-Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Glc、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Glc、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Xyl、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Rha、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Rha、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Ara、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Ara、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(2→1)Glc(6→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(2→1)Lyx、-O-Glc(6→1)Glc(6→1)Lyx;
r4 is selected from one of the following groups:
7. the composition for regulating skin circadian rhythm according to claim 6, wherein said daily-use skin care composition contains 0.005 to 0.5% by weight of a diol-type secondary ginseng glycoside.
8. The composition for regulating skin circadian rhythm according to claim 6, wherein said diol-type secondary ginseng glycoside is present in the form of an active ingredient, or a shell material of micelle, or a shell material of liposome, or a coating material of particle in a daily-use type skin care composition.
9. The composition for regulating skin circadian rhythm according to claim 8, wherein the coating substance of liposome having a diol-type secondary ginseng glycoside as shell material is a hydrophilic active substance or a hydrophobic substance or a combination of both, and the hydrophilic active substance is one or more of a hydrolyzed protein compound, a water-soluble small molecule polypeptide compound and a water-soluble small molecule compound; the hydrophobic substance is one or more of natural or synthetic oil compounds, phospholipid compounds, vitamins, carotene, carotenoid compounds, essential oil compounds and fat-soluble small molecule active substances;
the coated substance of micelle with diol type secondary ginseng glycoside as shell material is one or more of natural or synthetic oil compounds, phospholipid compounds, vitamins, carotene, carotenoid compounds, essential oil compounds and liposoluble small molecule active substances.
10. The composition for regulating the circadian rhythm of skin according to claim 6, wherein said daily-use skin care composition is one of a lotion, a serum, an emulsion, a cream, an anhydrous formulation.
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CN114600832A (en) * | 2022-04-01 | 2022-06-10 | 西南医科大学 | Mouse heart failure model and preparation method thereof |
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