CN112095205B - Manufacturing process of terylene tencel elastic jean style fabric - Google Patents
Manufacturing process of terylene tencel elastic jean style fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN112095205B CN112095205B CN202010918725.4A CN202010918725A CN112095205B CN 112095205 B CN112095205 B CN 112095205B CN 202010918725 A CN202010918725 A CN 202010918725A CN 112095205 B CN112095205 B CN 112095205B
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 51
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 32
- 229920000433 Lyocell Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 11
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 11
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims description 30
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 claims description 30
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims description 19
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 15
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000009999 singeing Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- VGKYEIFFSOPYEW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methyl-4-[(4-phenyldiazenylphenyl)diazenyl]phenol Chemical compound Cc1cc(ccc1O)N=Nc1ccc(cc1)N=Nc1ccccc1 VGKYEIFFSOPYEW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium Chemical compound [Al] XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000012752 auxiliary agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000004067 bulking agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000013527 degreasing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000005237 degreasing agent Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000018044 dehydration Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000006297 dehydration reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000006073 displacement reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000007790 scraping Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000021419 vinegar Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000052 vinegar Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000005303 weighing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- 201000003373 familial cold autoinflammatory syndrome 3 Diseases 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000004243 sweat Anatomy 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
- D02G3/045—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from artificial or synthetic material
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C9/00—Singeing
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a polyester viscose wool-like plaid fabric, in particular to a manufacturing process of a terylene tencel elastic jean style fabric. The method comprises the following steps: selecting warp and weft raw materials → preparing the former raw materials → warping process → machine processing process → dyeing and finishing process. Moisture absorption and perspiration, draping and elegant, and perspiration without close fitting.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a polyester viscose wool-like plaid fabric, in particular to a manufacturing process of a terylene tencel elastic jean style fabric.
Background
The fabric in the prior art has the advantages of less style, high production cost and no unique style.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention mainly solves the defects in the prior art and provides a manufacturing process of terylene tencel elastic jean style fabric which can absorb moisture and perspire, is suspended and elegant, and is not close-fitting to the skin when being worn.
The technical problem of the invention is mainly solved by the following technical scheme:
a manufacturing process of a terylene tencel elastic jean style fabric comprises the following steps:
the method comprises the following steps of (A) selecting warp and weft raw materials:
the gory yarn is a modified polyester fiber, has the black and white characteristics of the gory yarn, enables the finished product effect of the dyed fabric to be more natural in color, soft and not harsh, creates a more natural wool-like and linen-like effect, has a finer and smoother style and a stronger draping feeling, is used for replacing the traditional all-cotton jean fabric, is not easy to wrinkle and has a good anti-pilling effect;
the tencel viscose blended raw material has the advantages of cotton air permeability, chemical fiber strength and real silk luster, is soft and drapable, unique in touch, strong in durability, good in elasticity, environment-friendly and healthy; the ready-made clothes have good washing size stability and small washing shrinkage;
(II) preparing the raw materials in the previous step:
adding spandex in a network, and coating the Leili yarn and the spandex by a network yarn machine, wherein the air pressure is 3.0mpu, the vehicle speed is 300 m/min, the tension is 90N/cm, and the drafting multiplying power of the spandex is 3.1 times;
winding and aluminum straight ternary spinning raw materials are used as textile raw materials, so that the subsequent production efficiency is improved, the yarn breakage is reduced, the twisting quality is ensured, and the winding mode of the winding is a mixed anti-back winding mode;
the twisting process mode is that the Lelisi spandex coated yarn is twisted through a twisting machine, the twist is set to be 600T/MS, the vehicle speed is 1000 revolutions per minute, the overfeed rate is 0.8 percent, the wrapping angle is 320 degrees, the requirements of the production process are met, the production efficiency reaches 95 percent, and the production quality is ensured;
(III) warping process:
the light tension of the spandex coated yarn of the Lelisi is warped on a warp beam in a sectional way, the speed is 300 m/min, the displacement potential giving amount is 0.72MM, and the doffing tension is 0.3 mpu;
(IV) a machine processing technology:
the Lelisi spandex coated yarn penetrates through a button tooth machine, and 2/1 twill is selected as the texture, so that the Lelisi surface floats on the surface of the fabric, and the tencel is hidden on the back of the fabric, thereby not only showing the linen-like leisure style of the Lelisi, but also enabling the tencel viscose to play the characteristics of softness, smoothness and skin-sticking on the back;
(V) dyeing and finishing process:
1) preparing gray fabric, weighing to calculate the gram weight of the gray fabric, filling a flow card, and opening a seam;
2) the flattening process is divided into three stages, wherein the temperature of one stage is 50-60 ℃, the temperature of the second stage is 95-100 ℃, and the temperature of the third stage is cooled to the normal temperature;
3) pre-shrinking process, namely pre-shrinking into an overflow cylinder, adding an auxiliary agent, liquid caustic soda and degreasing agent after the temperature is 115 ℃ and the time is 10 minutes;
4) a pre-setting process, wherein the dehydration is performed after the pre-shrinking is finished, the temperature is about 200 ℃, the speed is 60 m/min, the width is set to 145 m, and the overfeeding is 15%;
5) singeing is single-side singeing, and the speed is 60-80 m/min;
6) the dyeing formula is 2B blue 3%, disperse yellow 0.4%, SL red 0.15% and ice vinegar 1%; ensure the pH value of 6-7. The dyeing temperature is 135 ℃, and the dyeing time is 40 minutes;
7) setting the finished product at 195-205 deg.c, speed of 60-70 m/min and oil concentration of 3-4% of softening agent/L; 0.5-1% of bulking agent/liter, and the standard is based on no silk scraping;
8) and (3) steaming, wherein the pressure of the steamed body is 3pa/cm2, the time is 30-35 minutes, and the tension of wrapping cloth is 15pa/cm 2.
Therefore, the manufacturing process of the terylene tencel elastic jean style fabric provided by the invention aims at the problems of single fiber and uncomfortable wearing of the existing jean fabric, and the jean style fabric absorbs moisture and perspires, is suspended and elegant, and sweats when worn without being close to skin.
Detailed Description
The technical scheme of the invention is further specifically described by the following embodiments.
Example 1: a manufacturing process of a terylene tencel elastic jean style fabric comprises the following steps:
the method comprises the following steps of (A) selecting warp and weft raw materials:
the gory yarn is a modified polyester fiber, has the black and white characteristics of the gory yarn, enables the finished product effect of the dyed fabric to be more natural in color, soft and not harsh, creates a more natural wool-like and linen-like effect, has a finer and smoother style and a stronger draping feeling, is used for replacing the traditional all-cotton jean fabric, is not easy to wrinkle and has a good anti-pilling effect;
the tencel viscose blended raw material has the advantages of cotton air permeability, chemical fiber strength and real silk luster, is soft and drapable, unique in touch, strong in durability, good in elasticity, environment-friendly and healthy; the ready-made clothes have good washing size stability and small washing shrinkage;
(II) preparing the raw materials in the previous step:
adding spandex in a network, and coating the Leili yarn and the spandex by a network yarn machine, wherein the air pressure is 3.0mpu, the vehicle speed is 300 m/min, the tension is 90N/cm, and the drafting multiplying power of the spandex is 3.1 times;
winding and aluminum straight ternary spinning raw materials are used as textile raw materials, so that the subsequent production efficiency is improved, the yarn breakage is reduced, the twisting quality is ensured, and the winding mode of the winding is a mixed anti-back winding mode;
the twisting process mode is that the Lelisi spandex coated yarn is twisted through a twisting machine, the twist is set to be 600T/MS, the vehicle speed is 1000 revolutions per minute, the overfeed rate is 0.8 percent, the wrapping angle is 320 degrees, the requirements of the production process are met, the production efficiency reaches 95 percent, and the production quality is ensured;
(III) warping process:
the light tension of the spandex coated yarn of the Lelisi is warped on a warp beam in a sectional way, the speed is 300 m/min, the displacement potential giving amount is 0.72MM, and the doffing tension is 0.3 mpu;
(IV) a machine processing technology:
the Lelisi spandex coated yarn penetrates through a button tooth machine, and 2/1 twill is selected as the texture, so that the Lelisi surface floats on the surface of the fabric, and the tencel is hidden on the back of the fabric, thereby not only showing the linen-like leisure style of the Lelisi, but also enabling the tencel viscose to play the characteristics of softness, smoothness and skin-sticking on the back;
(V) dyeing and finishing process:
1) preparing gray fabric, weighing to calculate the gram weight of the gray fabric, filling a flow card, and opening a seam;
2) the leveling process is divided into three stages, wherein the temperature of one stage is 50 ℃, the temperature of the second stage is 95 ℃, and the temperature of the third stage is cooled to the normal temperature;
3) pre-shrinking process, namely pre-shrinking into an overflow cylinder, adding an auxiliary agent, liquid caustic soda and degreasing agent after the temperature is 115 ℃ and the time is 10 minutes;
4) a pre-setting process, wherein the dehydration is performed after the pre-shrinking is finished, the temperature is about 200 ℃, the speed is 60 m/min, the width is set to 145 m, and the overfeeding is 15%;
5) singeing is single-side singeing, and the speed is 60 m/min;
6) the dyeing formula is 2B blue 3%, disperse yellow 0.4%, SL red 0.15% and ice vinegar 1%; ensure a pH of 6. The dyeing temperature is 135 ℃, and the dyeing time is 40 minutes;
7) setting the finished product at 195 ℃, the speed of the vehicle is 60 m/min, and the concentration of the oil solution is 3 percent/L of the softening agent; 0.5 percent of bulking agent/liter, and the standard is based on no silk scraping;
8) and (3) steaming, wherein the pressure of the steamed body is 3pa/cm2, the time is 30 minutes, and the tension of the wrapping cloth is 15pa/cm 2.
Example 2: a manufacturing process of a terylene tencel elastic jean style fabric comprises the following steps:
the method comprises the following steps of (A) selecting warp and weft raw materials:
the gory yarn is a modified polyester fiber, has the black and white characteristics of the gory yarn, enables the finished product effect of the dyed fabric to be more natural in color, soft and not harsh, creates a more natural wool-like and linen-like effect, has a finer and smoother style and a stronger draping feeling, is used for replacing the traditional all-cotton jean fabric, is not easy to wrinkle and has a good anti-pilling effect;
the tencel viscose blended raw material has the advantages of cotton air permeability, chemical fiber strength and real silk luster, is soft and drapable, unique in touch, strong in durability, good in elasticity, environment-friendly and healthy; the ready-made clothes have good washing size stability and small washing shrinkage;
(II) preparing the raw materials in the previous step:
adding spandex in a network, and coating the Leili yarn and the spandex by a network yarn machine, wherein the air pressure is 3.0mpu, the vehicle speed is 300 m/min, the tension is 90N/cm, and the drafting multiplying power of the spandex is 3.1 times;
winding and aluminum straight ternary spinning raw materials are used as textile raw materials, so that the subsequent production efficiency is improved, the yarn breakage is reduced, the twisting quality is ensured, and the winding mode of the winding is a mixed anti-back winding mode;
the twisting process mode is that the Lelisi spandex coated yarn is twisted through a twisting machine, the twist is set to be 600T/MS, the vehicle speed is 1000 revolutions per minute, the overfeed rate is 0.8 percent, the wrapping angle is 320 degrees, the requirements of the production process are met, the production efficiency reaches 95 percent, and the production quality is ensured;
(III) warping process:
the light tension of the spandex coated yarn of the Lelisi is warped on a warp beam in a sectional way, the speed is 300 m/min, the displacement potential giving amount is 0.72MM, and the doffing tension is 0.3 mpu;
(IV) a machine processing technology:
the Lelisi spandex coated yarn penetrates through a button tooth machine, and 2/1 twill is selected as the texture, so that the Lelisi surface floats on the surface of the fabric, and the tencel is hidden on the back of the fabric, thereby not only showing the linen-like leisure style of the Lelisi, but also enabling the tencel viscose to play the characteristics of softness, smoothness and skin-sticking on the back;
(V) dyeing and finishing process:
1) preparing gray fabric, weighing to calculate the gram weight of the gray fabric, filling a flow card, and opening a seam;
2) the flattening process is divided into three stages, wherein the temperature of one stage is 55 ℃, the temperature of the second stage is 97 ℃, and the temperature of the third stage is cooled to the normal temperature;
3) pre-shrinking process, namely pre-shrinking into an overflow cylinder, adding an auxiliary agent, liquid caustic soda and degreasing agent after the temperature is 115 ℃ and the time is 10 minutes;
4) a pre-setting process, wherein after pre-shrinking, dehydration is performed for a preset time, the temperature is 200 ℃, the speed is 60 m/min, the width is set to 145 m, and overfeeding is 15%;
5) singeing is single-side singeing, and the speed is 70 m/min;
6) the dyeing formula is 2B blue 3%, disperse yellow 0.4%, SL red 0.15% and ice vinegar 1%; ensure a pH of 6.5. The dyeing temperature is 135 ℃, and the dyeing time is 40 minutes;
7) setting the finished product at 200 ℃, the speed of the vehicle is 65 m/min, and the concentration of the oil solution is 3.5%/L of the softening agent; 0.8 percent of bulking agent/liter, and the standard is based on no silk scraping;
8) and (3) steaming, wherein the pressure of the steamed body is 3pa/cm2, the time is 32 minutes, and the tension of the wrapping cloth is 15pa/cm 2.
Example 3: a manufacturing process of a terylene tencel elastic jean style fabric comprises the following steps:
the method comprises the following steps of (A) selecting warp and weft raw materials:
the gory yarn is a modified polyester fiber, has the black and white characteristics of the gory yarn, enables the finished product effect of the dyed fabric to be more natural in color, soft and not harsh, creates a more natural wool-like and linen-like effect, has a finer and smoother style and a stronger draping feeling, is used for replacing the traditional all-cotton jean fabric, is not easy to wrinkle and has a good anti-pilling effect;
the tencel viscose blended raw material has the advantages of cotton air permeability, chemical fiber strength and real silk luster, is soft and drapable, unique in touch, strong in durability, good in elasticity, environment-friendly and healthy; the ready-made clothes have good washing size stability and small washing shrinkage;
(II) preparing the raw materials in the previous step:
adding spandex in a network, and coating the Leili yarn and the spandex by a network yarn machine, wherein the air pressure is 3.0mpu, the vehicle speed is 300 m/min, the tension is 90N/cm, and the drafting multiplying power of the spandex is 3.1 times;
winding and aluminum straight ternary spinning raw materials are used as textile raw materials, so that the subsequent production efficiency is improved, the yarn breakage is reduced, the twisting quality is ensured, and the winding mode of the winding is a mixed anti-back winding mode;
the twisting process mode is that the Lelisi spandex coated yarn is twisted through a twisting machine, the twist is set to be 600T/MS, the vehicle speed is 1000 revolutions per minute, the overfeed rate is 0.8 percent, the wrapping angle is 320 degrees, the requirements of the production process are met, the production efficiency reaches 95 percent, and the production quality is ensured;
(III) warping process:
the light tension of the spandex coated yarn of the Lelisi is warped on a warp beam in a sectional way, the speed is 300 m/min, the displacement potential giving amount is 0.72MM, and the doffing tension is 0.3 mpu;
(IV) a machine processing technology:
the Lelisi spandex coated yarn penetrates through a button tooth machine, and 2/1 twill is selected as the texture, so that the Lelisi surface floats on the surface of the fabric, and the tencel is hidden on the back of the fabric, thereby not only showing the linen-like leisure style of the Lelisi, but also enabling the tencel viscose to play the characteristics of softness, smoothness and skin-sticking on the back;
(V) dyeing and finishing process:
1) preparing gray fabric, weighing to calculate the gram weight of the gray fabric, filling a flow card, and opening a seam;
2) the leveling process is divided into three stages, wherein the temperature of one stage is 60 ℃, the temperature of the second stage is 100 ℃, and the temperature of the third stage is cooled to the normal temperature;
3) pre-shrinking process, namely pre-shrinking into an overflow cylinder, adding an auxiliary agent, liquid caustic soda and degreasing agent after the temperature is 115 ℃ and the time is 10 minutes;
4) a pre-setting process, wherein after pre-shrinking, dehydration is performed for a preset time, the temperature is 200 ℃, the speed is 60 m/min, the width is set to 145 m, and overfeeding is 15%;
5) singeing is single-side singeing, and the speed is 80 m/min;
6) the dyeing formula is 2B blue 3%, disperse yellow 0.4%, SL red 0.15% and ice vinegar 1%; ensuring the pH value to be 7, the dyeing temperature to be 135 ℃ and the time to be 40 minutes;
7) setting the finished product at 205 ℃, the speed of the vehicle is 70 m/min, and the concentration of the oil agent is 4% per liter of the softening agent; 1% of a bulking agent per liter, and the standard is based on no silk scraping;
8) and (3) steaming, wherein the pressure of the steamed body is 3pa/cm2, the time is 35 minutes, and the tension of the wrapping cloth is 15pa/cm 2.
Claims (1)
1. A manufacturing process of a terylene tencel elastic jean style fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:
the method comprises the following steps of (A) selecting warp and weft raw materials:
the gory yarn is a modified polyester fiber, has the black and white characteristics of the gory yarn, enables the finished product effect of the dyed fabric to be more natural in color, soft and not harsh, creates a more natural wool-like and linen-like effect, has a finer and smoother style and a stronger draping feeling, is used for replacing the traditional all-cotton jean fabric, and has the effects of difficult wrinkling and good fuzzing and pilling resistance;
the tencel viscose blended raw material has the advantages of cotton air permeability, chemical fiber strength and real silk luster, is soft and drapable, unique in touch, strong in durability, good in elasticity, environment-friendly and healthy; the ready-made clothes have good washing size stability and small washing shrinkage;
(II) preparing the raw materials in the previous step:
adding spandex in a network, and coating the Leili silk and the spandex by a network silk machine, wherein the air pressure is 3.0mpa, the vehicle speed is 300 m/min, the tension is 90N/cm, and the drafting multiplying power of the spandex is 3.1 times;
the textile raw materials are processed through silk winding and aluminum straightening, the efficiency of subsequent production is improved, broken silk is reduced, the twisting quality is ensured, and the silk winding mode is a mixed anti-back winding mode;
the twisting process mode is that the Lelisi spandex coated yarn is twisted through a twisting machine, the twist is set to be 600T/MS, the vehicle speed is 1000 revolutions per minute, the overfeed rate is 0.8 percent, the wrapping angle is 320 degrees, the requirements of the production process are met, the production efficiency reaches 95 percent, and the production quality is ensured;
(III) warping process: the light tension of the Lelisi spandex coated yarn is warped on a warp beam in a sectional manner, the speed is 300 m/min, the displacement potential giving amount is 0.72MM, and the doffing tension is 0.3 mpa;
(IV) a machine processing technology:
the Lelisi spandex coated yarn penetrates through a reed dent machine, and 2/1 twill is selected as the texture, so that the Lelisi surface floats on the surface of the fabric, and the tencel is hidden on the back of the fabric, thereby not only showing the linen-like leisure style of the Lelisi, but also enabling the tencel viscose to play the characteristics of softness, smoothness and skin-sticking on the back;
(V) dyeing and finishing process:
1) preparing gray fabric, weighing to calculate the gram weight of the gray fabric, filling a flow card, and opening a seam;
2) the flattening process is divided into three stages, wherein the temperature of one stage is 50-60 ℃, the temperature of the second stage is 95-100 ℃, and the temperature of the third stage is cooled to the normal temperature;
3) pre-shrinking process, namely pre-shrinking into an overflow cylinder, adding an auxiliary agent, liquid caustic soda and degreasing agent after the temperature is 115 ℃ and the time is 10 minutes;
4) a pre-setting process, wherein after pre-shrinking, dehydration is performed for a preset time, the temperature is 200 ℃, the speed is 60 m/min, the width is set to 145 m, and overfeeding is 15%;
5) singeing is single-side singeing, and the speed is 60-80 m/min;
6) the dyeing formula is 2B blue 3%, disperse yellow 0.4%, SL red 0.15% and ice vinegar 1%; ensuring the pH value to be 6-7, the dyeing temperature to be 135 ℃ and the time to be 40 minutes;
7) setting the finished product at 195-205 deg.c, speed of 60-70 m/min and oil concentration of 3-4% of softening agent/L; 0.5-1% of bulking agent/liter, and the standard is based on no silk scraping;
8) and (3) steaming, wherein the pressure of the steamed body is 3pa/cm2, the time is 30-35 minutes, and the tension of wrapping cloth is 15pa/cm 2.
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