CN111579387B - Method and device for testing softness of clothing fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a method and a device for testing softness of clothing fabric. Common softness testing methods can only test one fabric sample at a time. The invention relates to a device for testing the softness of clothing fabric, which comprises a background plate, a horizontal rail, a vertical rail and two pins. The background plate is vertically fixed; a horizontal track is fixed on the background plate. The vertical alignment bars are fixed on the background plate. The vertical track of vertical setting is fixed in the below of vertical alignment strip. A vertical graduated scale is arranged on the side part of the vertical track; the 0 scale mark of the vertical scale is aligned with the bottom end surface of the vertical alignment strip. A left horizontal graduated scale and a right horizontal graduated scale are arranged on one side of the horizontal track. The 0 scale marks of the left horizontal scale and the right horizontal scale are aligned with the top ends of the vertical alignment strips. According to the invention, the side surfaces of the rectangular sample are vertically arranged, so that the two ends of the sample are respectively folded and sagged, and the half-section fabric to be measured forms two measuring points, namely the inflection point and the collar tip, so that the measuring precision is increased.

Description

A method and device for testing the softness of clothing fabrics

technical field

The invention belongs to the technical field of textile and clothing performance testing, and in particular relates to a method for testing the softness of clothing fabrics.

Background technique

Food, clothing, housing, and transportation are essential daily necessities for people. With the rapid development of economy and living standards in recent years, people have higher and higher requirements for clothing, especially for its feel, comfort and aesthetics. Fabrics for body-fitting clothing in summer and other seasons must have good softness and comfort, while fabrics for skirts and the like must have good drapability. Studies have found that these properties are greatly related to the softness of the fabric. Currently, the common test methods include the inclined plane method and the heart-shaped method. Although the principles and scope of application are different, the common problem is that they can only test each time. A fabric sample.

Contents of the invention

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for testing the softness of clothing fabrics.

The concrete steps of a kind of testing method of clothing fabric softness of the present invention are as follows:

Step 1: Cut the fabric to be tested into a rectangular sample, and draw a marking line that equally divides the fabric to be tested along the width direction on the rectangular sample.

Step 2: Fix the position of the marking line of the rectangular sample, and make the marking line vertical. The fixed rectangular specimen forms a collar shape. Both ends of the rectangular specimen are bent downwards. The lower edge of the bent rectangular specimen forms a left inflection point, a right inflection point, a left collar point, and a right collar point. The left inflection point and the right inflection point are respectively the farthest horizontal distances from the left half and right half of the rectangular sample to the marking line. The left collar point and the right collar point are respectively the farthest vertical distances from the left half and right half of the rectangular sample to the marking line.

Step 3: Measure the horizontal distance X ₁ between the left inflection point and the marked line and the horizontal distance X ₂ between the right inflection point and the marked line; calculate the total lateral distance X=X ₁ +X ₂ between the two inflection points.

Step 4: Measure the horizontal distance X' ₁ between the left collar tip and the marked line and the horizontal distance X' ₂ between the right collar tip and the marked line; calculate the total lateral distance X'=X' ₁ +X' ₂ of the two collar tips.

Step 5: Measure the vertical distances Y′ 1 , Y _{′ 2} , Y ₁ , and _{Y 2 from} the left collar point A′, right collar point B′, left inflection point A, and right inflection point B to the bottom of the marking line respectively. Calculate the average longitudinal distance between two inflection points Calculate the average longitudinal distance between the two collar points

Step 6. Calculate the average lateral distance Calculate the average sag height of the collar point />

Step 7 Calculate the softness coefficient of the tested fabric The larger the value of the softness coefficient S, the softer the tested fabric is.

As preferably, the method for further calculating the softness of tested fabric is as follows:

Take multiple pieces of tested fabrics to test according to the method of steps 1 to 7; the calculated arithmetic mean value of the total transverse distance X between two inflection points The calculated arithmetic mean of the total lateral distance X between the two leading points> Arithmetic mean of the calculated twenty soft coefficients S/> Calculate the softness of the tested fabric: />

As preferably, the arithmetic mean value S' of the softness coefficient calculated by the measured fabric whose length direction is parallel to the warp direction, weft direction and 45° oblique direction is used to evaluate the softness of the tested fabric:

①. If S'<0.5, the tested fabric is a stiff fabric, which has good shape retention and a crisp appearance when used as a coat or formal wear;

②. If 0.5≤S'<1, the tested fabric is a relatively stiff fabric, which is suitable for casual clothing;

③. If 1≤S'<1.5, the tested fabric is soft and suitable for summer clothing;

④. If 1.5≤S', the tested fabric is soft and suitable for underwear.

As preferably, the method for further calculating the bending stiffness of the tested fabric is as follows: take a plurality of tested fabrics to test according to the method of steps 1 to 7 respectively, and obtain the arithmetic mean value of a plurality of softness coefficients S Calculate the flexural stiffness of the tested fabric (in mgf cm)/>

Preferably, before step 1 is performed, the fabric to be tested is ironed flat and the threads are sorted out.

Preferably, wait for 1 minute between step 2 and step 3.

Preferably, the size of the rectangular sample is 12cm×1.2cm.

A test device for the softness of garment fabrics comprises a background board, a horizontal track, a vertical track and two pins. The background board is vertically fixed; the top of the working side of the background board is fixed with a horizontal track. The vertical alignment bar is fixed on the background board and located in the middle of the horizontal track. Two pins are respectively arranged on the two ends of the vertical alignment bar for fixing the rectangular sample. The vertical track arranged vertically is fixed below the vertical alignment bar. The side of the vertical track is provided with a vertical scale; the 0 scale line of the vertical scale is aligned with the bottom end face of the vertical alignment bar. One side of the horizontal track is provided with a left horizontal scale and a right horizontal scale. The 0 marks on the left and right horizontal scales are aligned with the tops of the vertical alignment bars. Auxiliary measuring devices include a left vertical measuring rod, a right vertical measuring rod and a horizontal measuring rod. The tops of the left vertical measuring rod and the right vertical measuring rod all form a sliding pair with the horizontal track. The middle part of the horizontal measuring rod and the vertical track constitute a sliding pair.

As preferably, the distance from the outer side of the vertical alignment bar to the working side of the background plate is greater than the distance from the left vertical measuring rod, the right vertical measuring rod, and the horizontal measuring rod to the working side of the background plate;

Preferably, there are two horizontal tracks. The distance between the two horizontal tracks is 1.2cm; a vertical alignment bar is set between the middle positions of the two horizontal tracks.

The beneficial effects that the present invention has are:

In the existing fabric bending test method, only one sample can be tested in each experiment, and only one test result can be obtained. If you want to test multiple samples, you need to perform multiple tests, which is time-consuming and wastes fabric. . Aiming at this current situation, the present invention designs a detection system that can obtain two test results for one sample at the same time, which is characterized by simplicity, convenience and strong operability. In addition, the present invention sets the side of the fabric to be tested vertically, and the two ends are folded and drooped respectively, so that the half section of the fabric to be tested forms two measuring points, the inflection point and the collar point, thereby further increasing the measurement accuracy.

Description of drawings

Fig. 1 is a structural representation of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is the structural representation of the present invention in testing process;

Fig. 3 is the schematic diagram of the form of the soft fabric in the test;

Figure 4 is a schematic diagram of the shape of the stiff fabric in the test.

Detailed ways

The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with accompanying drawing.

As shown in Figures 1 and 2, a test device for the softness of clothing fabrics, as shown in Figure 1: includes a background plate and two pins. The background board is vertically fixed on the wall; the top of the working side of the background board is fixed with an upper horizontal track 1 and a lower horizontal track 2 arranged at intervals up and down and arranged horizontally. The distance between the upper horizontal track 1 and the lower horizontal track is 1.2cm; a vertical alignment bar is arranged between the middle position 3 of the upper horizontal track and the middle position 4 of the lower horizontal track. Two pins are attached to each end of the vertical alignment strip. The vertically arranged left vertical rail 5 and right vertical rail 6 are respectively arranged on the left and right sides directly below the vertical alignment bar. On the left side of the left vertical track 5 and the right side of the right vertical track 6, a vertical scale 10 is arranged; the 0 scale line of the two vertical scales 10 is aligned with the bottom end face of the vertical alignment bar (The scale on the vertical scale indicates the distance from the scale to the bottom end face of the vertical alignment bar). A left horizontal scale 11 and a right horizontal scale 12 are arranged on the upper side of the upper horizontal track 1 . Both the 0 scale lines of the left horizontal scale 11 and the right horizontal scale 12 are aligned with the tops of the vertical alignment bars.

The auxiliary measuring device comprises a left vertical measuring rod 7 , a right vertical measuring rod 8 and a horizontal measuring rod 9 . The top of the left vertical measuring rod 7 forms a sliding pair by the left end of the slide block and the upper horizontal track 1 and the lower horizontal track 2. The top of the right vertical measuring rod 8 constitutes a sliding pair by the right end of the slide block and the upper horizontal track 1, the lower horizontal track 2. The left vertical measuring rod 7 and the right vertical measuring rod 8 can slide freely along the upper horizontal track 1 and the lower horizontal track 2, but cannot cross the vertical alignment bar. The middle part of horizontal measuring rod 9 constitutes sliding pair by slide block and the bottom of left vertical track 5 and right vertical track 6. The distance from the outer side of the vertical alignment bar to the working side of the background board is greater than the distance from the left vertical measuring rod 7, the right vertical measuring rod 8, and the horizontal measuring rod 9 to the working side of the background board; thus making the left vertical measuring rod 7. The right vertical measuring rod 8 and the horizontal measuring rod 9 will not touch the rectangular sample fixed on the vertical alignment bar during the movement.

The test method for the softness of the garment fabric is as follows:

Step 1. After ironing the fabric 13 to be tested and finishing the threads, cut the fabric 13 to be tested into 12cm×1.2 along the warp direction, weft direction, 45° direction or other directions as the length direction of the fabric 13 to be tested. cm rectangular sample (in order to avoid accidental errors, cut 10 samples in the warp direction, weft direction, and 45° direction), and draw a marking line that equally divides the tested fabric 13 along the width direction on the rectangular sample. The marking line is the line connecting the midpoints of the two length edges of the rectangular specimen.

Step 2. Remove the two pins fixed on the vertical alignment strip, and align the marking line on the rectangular sample with the vertical alignment strip; respectively fix the two pins on the two sides of the marking line on the rectangular sample. end. As shown in Figure 3, the fixed rectangular specimen forms a collar shape. Both ends of the rectangular specimen are bent downwards. The lower edge of the bent rectangular sample forms a left inflection point A, a right inflection point B, a left collar A' and a right collar B'. Left inflection point A and right inflection point B are respectively the farthest horizontal distances from the left half and right half of the rectangular sample to the marking line. Left collar tip A' and right collar tip B' are respectively the farthest vertical distances from the left half and right half of the rectangular sample to the marking line.

Step 3. After waiting for 1 minute, slide the left vertical measuring rod 7 and the right vertical measuring rod 8 inwards to align with the left inflection point A and the right inflection point B respectively. Because the distance from the outer side of the vertical alignment bar to the working side of the background plate is greater than the distance from the left vertical measuring rod 7, the right vertical measuring rod 8, and the horizontal measuring rod 9 to the working side of the background plate, the left vertical measuring rod 7 , the right vertical measuring rod 8 will not be in contact with the rectangular sample, thereby ensuring that the rectangular sample will not be deformed during the test.

Read the numerical value X ₁ of the left vertical measuring rod 7 on the left horizontal scale 11 and the numerical value X ₂ of the right vertical measuring rod 8 on the right horizontal scale 12; X ₁ is the horizontal distance between the left inflection point A and the marking line ; X ₂ is the horizontal distance between the right inflection point B and the marked line; calculate the total lateral distance X=X ₁ +X ₂ of the two inflection points.

Step 4: Continue to slide the left vertical measuring rod 7 and the right vertical measuring rod 8 inwards until they are aligned with the left collar tip 12 and the right collar tip 13 respectively. Read the numerical value X' 1 of the left vertical measuring rod 7 on the left horizontal scale 11 and the numerical value X' 2 of the right vertical measuring rod ₈ on the right horizontal scale 12 with the same method as in step ₃ ; X' ₁ is the horizontal distance between the left collar tip 12 and the marked line; X' ₂ is the horizontal distance between the right collar tip 13 and the marked line; calculate the total lateral distance of the two collar tips X'=X' ₁ +X' ₂ .

Step 5: Slide the left vertical measuring rod 7 and the right vertical measuring rod 8 outwards to reset; slide the horizontal measuring rod 9 upwards to the left collar A', right collar B', left inflection point A, right inflection point B respectively aligned state, respectively read the values Y′ ₁ , Y′ ₂ , Y ₁ , Y ₂ of the horizontal measuring rod 9 on the vertical scale 10 . _Y'1 is the vertical distance between the left collar point A' and the bottom end of the marked line; _Y'2 is the vertical distance between the right collar point B' and the bottom end of the marked line; _Y1 is the distance between the left inflection point A and the bottom end of the marked line Vertical distance; Y ₂ is the vertical distance between the right inflection point B and the bottom of the marking line. Calculate the average longitudinal distance between two inflection points Calculate the average longitudinal distance between two leading points />

Step 6. Calculate the average lateral distance Calculate the average sag height of the collar point />

Step 7 Calculate the softness coefficient of the tested fabric 13 The larger the value of the softness coefficient S, the softer the tested fabric 13 is. As shown in Figure 3, the average lateral distance D of the "collar" formed by the softer fabric is smaller, and the average sag height /> Larger, that is, the greater the softness coefficient S; as shown in Figure 4, the average lateral distance D of the "collar" formed by the stiff fabric is larger, and the average sagging height Y is smaller, that is, the smaller the softness coefficient S;

Take the arithmetic mean S' of the softness coefficient calculated by the measured fabric whose length direction is parallel to the warp direction, weft direction, and 45° oblique direction to evaluate the softness of the tested fabric:

①. If S'<0.5, the tested fabric is a stiff fabric, which has good shape retention and a crisp appearance when used as a coat or formal wear;

②. If 0.5≤S'<1, the tested fabric is a relatively stiff fabric, which is suitable for casual clothing;

③. If 1≤S'<1.5, the tested fabric is soft and suitable for summer clothing;

④. If 1.5≤S', the tested fabric is soft and suitable for underwear.

Step eight, calculate the softness of the tested fabric:

8-1. Take ten pieces of tested fabrics whose length direction is along the fabric warp direction and ten pieces of tested fabrics whose length direction is along the fabric weft direction; and test 20 pieces of tested fabrics respectively according to the method of steps 1 to 7 ;Arithmetic average of the calculated total lateral distance X of twenty two inflection points The calculated arithmetic mean of the total lateral distance X of the twenty two leading points Arithmetic mean of the calculated twenty soft coefficients S/>

8-2. Calculate the softness of the tested fabric

Step 9. Calculate the flexural stiffness of the tested fabric The unit of the calculated bending stiffness is mgf·cm; using this formula, the bending stiffness in GB/T18318-2001 "Determination of Bending Length of Textile Fabrics" can be obtained according to the softness coefficient S in the present invention.

In summary, the above are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and are not intended to limit the implementation scope of the present invention. That is, all equivalent changes and revisions made according to the content of the patent scope of the present invention are within the technical scope of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. a method for testing of the softness of clothing fabrics, characterized in that: step 1, the tested fabric is cut into a rectangular sample, and on the rectangular sample, a marking line is drawn along the width direction to equally divide the tested fabric; Step 2, fix the position of the marking line of the rectangular sample, and make the marking line vertically set; the fixed rectangular sample forms a collar shape; both ends of the rectangular sample are bent downward; the bent rectangular sample The lower edge forms the left inflection point, the right inflection point, the left collar tip and the right collar tip; the left inflection point and the right inflection point are respectively the farthest horizontal distances from the left half and right half of the rectangular sample to the marking line; The collar points are respectively the furthest vertical distance from the left half and right half of the rectangular sample to the marking line; Step 3, measure the horizontal distance X ₁ between the left inflection point and the marked line and the horizontal distance X ₂ between the right inflection point and the marked line; calculate the total lateral distance X=X ₁ +X ₂ of the two inflection points; Step 4, measure the horizontal distance X' ₁ between the left leading point and the marked line and the horizontal distance X' ₂ between the right leading point and the marked line; calculate the total lateral distance X'=X ₁ ′+X ₂ ′ of the two leading points; Step 5. Measure the vertical distances Y ₁ ′, Y ₂ ′, Y ₁ , and Y ₂ from the left leading point A', right leading point B', left inflection point A, right inflection point B to the bottom of the marking line respectively; calculate the average of the two inflection points vertical distance Calculate the average longitudinal distance between two leading points /> Step 6. Calculate the average lateral distance Calculate the average sag height of the collar point /> Step 7. Calculate the softness coefficient of the tested fabric The larger the value of the softness coefficient S, the softer the tested fabric is. 2. the method for testing of the softness of a kind of clothing fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the method for further calculating the softness of tested fabric is as follows: Get ten pieces of tested fabrics whose length direction is along the fabric warp direction and ten pieces of tested fabrics whose length direction is along the fabric weft direction; The arithmetic mean of the total lateral distance X of twenty two inflection points The calculated arithmetic mean of the total lateral distance X of the twenty two leading points/> Arithmetic mean of the calculated twenty soft coefficients S/> Calculate the softness of the tested fabric/> 3. the method for testing of a kind of garment fabric softness according to claim 1, is characterized in that: get the arithmetic mean of the softness coefficient that the measured fabric of length direction is parallel to warp direction, weft direction, 45 ° oblique direction calculates The value S' evaluates the softness of the tested fabric: ①. If S'<0.5, the tested fabric is a stiff fabric, which has good shape retention and a crisp appearance when used as a coat or formal wear; ②. If 0.5≤S'<1, the tested fabric is a relatively stiff fabric, which is suitable for casual clothing; ③. If 1≤S'<1.5, the tested fabric is soft and suitable for summer clothing; ④. If 1.5≤S', the tested fabric is soft and suitable for underwear. 4. the test method of a kind of clothing fabric softness according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the method for further calculating the flexural rigidity of tested fabric is as follows: get a plurality of tested fabrics and carry out according to the method for steps 1 to 7 respectively Test, get the arithmetic mean value of multiple soft coefficients S Calculate the flexural stiffness of the tested fabric/> 5. A method for testing the softness of clothing fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that: before the execution of step 1, the tested fabrics are ironed and smoothed and the threads are arranged. 6. A method for testing the softness of clothing fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that: wait for 1 minute between step 2 and step 3. 7. The method for testing the softness of a garment fabric according to claim 1, wherein the size of the rectangular sample is 12cm×1.2cm. 8. A test device for the softness of clothing fabrics, comprising a background board; It is characterized in that: it also includes a horizontal track, a vertical track and two pins; the test device is used to implement the test method described in claim 1; the background board Vertically fixed; the top of the working side of the background board is fixed with a horizontal track; the vertical alignment bar is fixed on the background board and is located in the middle of the horizontal track; two pins are respectively set on the two ends of the vertical alignment bar , used to fix the rectangular sample; the vertical track set vertically is fixed below the vertical alignment bar; the side of the vertical track is provided with a vertical scale; the 0 scale line of the vertical scale is aligned with the vertical The bottom end of the bit bar is aligned; one side of the horizontal track is provided with a left horizontal scale and a right horizontal scale; the 0 scale lines of the left horizontal scale and the right horizontal scale are aligned with the top of the vertical alignment bar; auxiliary The measuring device includes a left vertical measuring rod, a right vertical measuring rod and a horizontal measuring rod; the tops of the left vertical measuring rod and the right vertical measuring rod all form a sliding pair with the horizontal track; the middle part of the horizontal measuring rod forms a sliding pair with the vertical track sliding vice. 9. A test device for softness of clothing fabrics according to claim 8, characterized in that: the distance from the outer side of the vertical alignment strip to the working side of the background plate is greater than the left vertical measuring rod and the right vertical measuring rod , Measure the distance from the horizontal rod to the working side of the background plate. 10. A test device for softness of clothing fabrics according to claim 8, characterized in that: there are two horizontal tracks; the distance between the two horizontal tracks is 1.2cm; A vertical alignment bar is provided.