CN111556741A - Composition for cleaning keratin materials - Google Patents
Composition for cleaning keratin materials Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN111556741A CN111556741A CN201780097970.XA CN201780097970A CN111556741A CN 111556741 A CN111556741 A CN 111556741A CN 201780097970 A CN201780097970 A CN 201780097970A CN 111556741 A CN111556741 A CN 111556741A
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- composition
- weight
- polyol
- composition according
- skin
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 129
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 title description 8
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-M Aminoacetate Chemical compound NCC([O-])=O DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 229910017053 inorganic salt Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- -1 halogen ions Chemical class 0.000 claims description 17
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 9
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 9
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 9
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 claims description 8
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 8
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims description 8
- 150000001768 cations Chemical class 0.000 claims description 7
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000001450 anions Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000002888 zwitterionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- NLXLAEXVIDQMFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia chloride Chemical compound [NH4+].[Cl-] NLXLAEXVIDQMFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- WCUXLLCKKVVCTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].[K+] WCUXLLCKKVVCTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium chloride Chemical group [Na+].[Cl-] FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940065856 cocoyl glycinate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 4
- KWGKDLIKAYFUFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M lithium chloride Chemical compound [Li+].[Cl-] KWGKDLIKAYFUFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Potassium Chemical compound [K] ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bicarbonate Chemical compound OC([O-])=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019270 ammonium chloride Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052736 halogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001103 potassium chloride Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000011164 potassium chloride Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011780 sodium chloride Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 31
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 19
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 description 11
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 9
- 239000013531 ACULYN rheology modifier Substances 0.000 description 8
- DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycine Chemical compound NCC(O)=O DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 description 8
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 8
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 7
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acrylate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 6
- QXNVGIXVLWOKEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Disodium Chemical compound [Na][Na] QXNVGIXVLWOKEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 210000004027 cell Anatomy 0.000 description 6
- 238000005187 foaming Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 5
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000004471 Glycine Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 4
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 4
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium laurylsulphate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOS([O-])(=O)=O DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000003240 coconut oil Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 210000002615 epidermis Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 238000004299 exfoliation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000014509 gene expression Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229930182478 glucoside Natural products 0.000 description 3
- 150000008131 glucosides Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 235000019333 sodium laurylsulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 3
- HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Aminoethan-1-ol Chemical compound NCCO HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 2
- WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Vinyl-2-pyrrolidone Chemical compound C=CN1CCCC1=O WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000005917 acylation reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 125000003342 alkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 125000005466 alkylenyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000001734 carboxylic acid salts Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 235000019864 coconut oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- HQYLVDYBSIUTBB-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;3-[2-(2-carboxylatoethoxy)ethyl-[2-(dodecanoylamino)ethyl]amino]propanoate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCN(CCC([O-])=O)CCOCCC([O-])=O HQYLVDYBSIUTBB-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- 229960000735 docosanol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- QTHQYNCAWSGBCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosanoyl chloride Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(Cl)=O QTHQYNCAWSGBCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- NQGIJDNPUZEBRU-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoyl chloride Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(Cl)=O NQGIJDNPUZEBRU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000002170 ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000001815 facial effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940075529 glyceryl stearate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycine betaine Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ARBOVOVUTSQWSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoyl chloride Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(Cl)=O ARBOVOVUTSQWSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- BXZBGYJQEFZICM-UHFFFAOYSA-N icosanoyl chloride Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(Cl)=O BXZBGYJQEFZICM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000002500 ions Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- WTBAHSZERDXKKZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoyl chloride Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(Cl)=O WTBAHSZERDXKKZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229940100460 peg-100 stearate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 238000005191 phase separation Methods 0.000 description 2
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 2
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940079988 potassium cocoyl glycinate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000037307 sensitive skin Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 2
- 210000004927 skin cell Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- IKGKWKGYFJBGQJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-(dodecanoylamino)acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCC([O-])=O IKGKWKGYFJBGQJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 238000013112 stability test Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000000346 sugar Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 150000008163 sugars Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 150000003512 tertiary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LNAZSHAWQACDHT-XIYTZBAFSA-N (2r,3r,4s,5r,6s)-4,5-dimethoxy-2-(methoxymethyl)-3-[(2s,3r,4s,5r,6r)-3,4,5-trimethoxy-6-(methoxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxy-6-[(2r,3r,4s,5r,6r)-4,5,6-trimethoxy-2-(methoxymethyl)oxan-3-yl]oxyoxane Chemical compound CO[C@@H]1[C@@H](OC)[C@H](OC)[C@@H](COC)O[C@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](OC)[C@@H](OC)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](OC)[C@H](OC)O[C@@H]2COC)OC)O[C@@H]1COC LNAZSHAWQACDHT-XIYTZBAFSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RPZANUYHRMRTTE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3,4-trimethoxy-6-(methoxymethyl)-5-[3,4,5-trimethoxy-6-(methoxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoxane;1-[[3,4,5-tris(2-hydroxybutoxy)-6-[4,5,6-tris(2-hydroxybutoxy)-2-(2-hydroxybutoxymethyl)oxan-3-yl]oxyoxan-2-yl]methoxy]butan-2-ol Chemical compound COC1C(OC)C(OC)C(COC)OC1OC1C(OC)C(OC)C(OC)OC1COC.CCC(O)COC1C(OCC(O)CC)C(OCC(O)CC)C(COCC(O)CC)OC1OC1C(OCC(O)CC)C(OCC(O)CC)C(OCC(O)CC)OC1COCC(O)CC RPZANUYHRMRTTE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WCOXQTXVACYMLM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-bis(12-hydroxyoctadecanoyloxy)propyl 12-hydroxyoctadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC WCOXQTXVACYMLM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OVSKIKFHRZPJSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,4-D Chemical compound OC(=O)COC1=CC=C(Cl)C=C1Cl OVSKIKFHRZPJSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Propenoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FEBUJFMRSBAMES-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[(2-{[3,5-dihydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-6-phosphanyloxan-4-yl]oxy}-3,5-dihydroxy-6-({[3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxy}methyl)oxan-4-yl)oxy]-3,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl phosphinite Chemical compound OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OCC1C(O)C(OC2C(C(OP)C(O)C(CO)O2)O)C(O)C(OC2C(C(CO)OC(P)C2O)O)O1 FEBUJFMRSBAMES-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NGNBDVOYPDDBFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2,4-di(pentan-2-yl)phenoxy]acetyl chloride Chemical compound CCCC(C)C1=CC=C(OCC(Cl)=O)C(C(C)CCC)=C1 NGNBDVOYPDDBFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UNSAJINGUOTTRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(3-bromophenyl)prop-2-yn-1-ol Chemical compound OCC#CC1=CC=CC(Br)=C1 UNSAJINGUOTTRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N [(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)-2-[(2r,3r,4s,5s,6r)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoxolan-2-yl]methyl octadecanoate Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1)O)[C@]1(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- GDTBXPJZTBHREO-UHFFFAOYSA-N bromine Substances BrBr GDTBXPJZTBHREO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 150000007942 carboxylates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002057 carboxymethyl group Chemical group [H]OC(=O)C([H])([H])[*] 0.000 description 1
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- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052801 chlorine Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000000460 chlorine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001805 chlorine compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- MRUAUOIMASANKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N cocamidopropyl betaine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCC[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O MRUAUOIMASANKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940073507 cocamidopropyl betaine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940047648 cocoamphodiacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940071195 cocoamphodipropionate Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001351 cycling effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- IPIVAXLHTVNRBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N decanoyl chloride Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(Cl)=O IPIVAXLHTVNRBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940073499 decyl glucoside Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000002704 decyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 210000004207 dermis Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229940079881 disodium lauroamphodiacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- QKQCPXJIOJLHAL-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;2-[2-(carboxylatomethoxy)ethyl-[2-(dodecanoylamino)ethyl]amino]acetate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCN(CC([O-])=O)CCOCC([O-])=O QKQCPXJIOJLHAL-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- KJDVLQDNIBGVMR-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;3-[2-aminoethyl-[2-(2-carboxylatoethoxy)ethyl]amino]propanoate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CCN(CCN)CCOCCC([O-])=O KJDVLQDNIBGVMR-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000000428 dust Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010410 dusting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- TVFJAZCVMOXQRK-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethenyl 7,7-dimethyloctanoate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)CCCCCC(=O)OC=C TVFJAZCVMOXQRK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019325 ethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001249 ethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000004673 fluoride salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052731 fluorine Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011737 fluorine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000665 guar gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010417 guar gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960002154 guar gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000003187 heptyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229940051250 hexylene glycol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 1
- XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydrogen iodide Chemical compound I XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001341 hydroxy propyl starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001863 hydroxypropyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010977 hydroxypropyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920013818 hydroxypropyl guar gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000001866 hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010979 hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920003088 hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- UFVKGYZPFZQRLF-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose Chemical compound OC1C(O)C(OC)OC(CO)C1OC1C(O)C(O)C(OC2C(C(O)C(OC3C(C(O)C(O)C(CO)O3)O)C(CO)O2)O)C(CO)O1 UFVKGYZPFZQRLF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013828 hydroxypropyl starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000004694 iodide salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052740 iodine Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011630 iodine Substances 0.000 description 1
- LVHBHZANLOWSRM-UHFFFAOYSA-N itaconic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(=C)C(O)=O LVHBHZANLOWSRM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N lauryl glucoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940048848 lauryl glucoside Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000944 linseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052744 lithium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052749 magnesium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920000609 methyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000001923 methylcellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010981 methylcellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019813 microcrystalline cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008108 microcrystalline cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940016286 microcrystalline cellulose Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000002105 nanoparticle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003472 neutralizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000001400 nonyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- MLQBTMWHIOYKKC-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadec-9-enoyl chloride Chemical compound CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(Cl)=O MLQBTMWHIOYKKC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229920000036 polyvinylpyrrolidone Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000013855 polyvinylpyrrolidone Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011148 porous material Substances 0.000 description 1
- WLPORNKIACJZBO-UHFFFAOYSA-M potassium;2-(dodecanoylamino)acetate Chemical compound [K+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCC([O-])=O WLPORNKIACJZBO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940069328 povidone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- FSYKKLYZXJSNPZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N sarcosine Chemical compound C[NH2+]CC([O-])=O FSYKKLYZXJSNPZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 108700004121 sarkosyl Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 210000002374 sebum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229940065859 sodium cocoyl glycinate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940057950 sodium laureth sulfate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KSAVQLQVUXSOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium lauroyl sarcosinate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N(C)CC([O-])=O KSAVQLQVUXSOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940045885 sodium lauroyl sarcosinate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 159000000000 sodium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- YBDZITJALUSANZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-(tetradecanoylamino)acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCC([O-])=O YBDZITJALUSANZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-[2-(2-dodecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethyl sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOS([O-])(=O)=O SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000087 stabilizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003860 storage Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940117986 sulfobetaine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sulfonate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000002344 surface layer Substances 0.000 description 1
- LPWCRLGKYWVLHQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanoyl chloride Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(Cl)=O LPWCRLGKYWVLHQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940057400 trihydroxystearin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000002948 undecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 238000009827 uniform distribution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003673 urethanes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase: a) at least one C2‑C6A polyol; b) at least one glycinate surfactant; and c) at least 5% by weight, relative to the total amount of the composition, of at least one water-soluble inorganic salt. The composition provides a frosty feel to the keratin material while providing excellent lathering properties. Furthermore, the composition is mild and gentle to keratin materials, especially the skin.
Description
The present invention relates to cleansing and/or exfoliating compositions useful for personal skin care.
The skin is a protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical damage (e.g., wounds) and biological damage (e.g., bacteria, viruses, or fungi). Human skin comprises dermis and epidermis. The epidermis is the uppermost layer of the skin, and its surface layer is called stratum corneum.
The stratum corneum or horny layer (horny layer) generally consists of 10 to 30 layers of dead cells. These cells are continuously replaced by new cells below. It is estimated that about 1 month is required for the stratum corneum to be completely replaced with new cells in adult human skin. The replacement time increased with age until approximately 120-150 days. The longer it takes to replace dead cells, the more layers of dead cells accumulate.
It is therefore desirable to remove an excessive layer of dead skin cells from the skin surface to provide a shiny skin with a youthful appearance. The process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin is called exfoliation.
On the other hand, cleansing the skin is an essential step for caring for keratin materials, in particular facial skin. It must be as efficient as possible, since greasy residues, such as dust, excess sebum and residues of cosmetic and make-up products used daily, can lead to an unpleasant greasy appearance. Several types of skin cleansing products are known, such as flushable anhydrous cleansing oils and gels, foaming creams, lotions and gels, and non-foaming compositions.
Currently, human skin is cleaned and/or exfoliated in many different ways, such as cleaning products that are mechanically rubbed with or without the use of any kind of hard particles. These particles are also known as sanding beads. Classic cleansing or exfoliating compositions currently on the market can be classified as cleansing compositions with or without abrasive beads. The addition of abrasive beads is known to provide stronger and better cleaning of the skin, particularly pore cleaning. These beads may be hydrocarbon wax beads, particles such as silica, and Polyethylene (PE) beads.
However, each of these beads has some associated problems. In fact:
the hydrocarbon wax beads are relatively large in size, in particular 300 to 2000 μm, and tend to be soft in cleansing or exfoliating formulations, which is undesirable;
particles such as silica tend to be too small in size (i.e. nanoparticles) during production, which causes dusting problems; and
PE beads break during application, which is not suitable for cleaning purposes.
In addition, known scrub beads tend to be rough after application to the skin. This is even worse for consumers of sensitive skin types.
In other cases, sodium salts are used as abrasive beads in cleaning and exfoliating compositions. However, due to the high amount of salt present, it is inevitable to use surfactants such as SLES (sodium lauryl sulfate) to maintain the foaming properties of the composition. Surfactants of this type are known for their strong cleaning power and for their irritancy (harshness) to the skin, in particular to sensitive skin.
Therefore, there is a need to formulate compositions for the care of keratin materials that have excellent cleansing and/or exfoliating properties, while maintaining a mild and light feel after application.
There remains a need for new compositions having the above properties and having excellent foaming properties.
Furthermore, there is a need for cleansing and/or exfoliating compositions having the above properties while being stable over time.
Applicants have now found that by combining specific surfactants with high amounts of salt, compositions can be formulated having the desired properties as described above.
The present invention therefore relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials (also referred to as "composition of the invention") comprising, in an aqueous phase:
a) at least one C2-C6A polyol;
b) at least one glycinate surfactant; and
c) at least 5% by weight of at least one water-soluble inorganic salt, relative to the total amount of the composition.
The composition of the present invention can provide gentle massaging and cleansing of the skin without any harsh feeling.
The compositions of the present invention also provide good lathering during application.
It can be used daily as a facial or body cleanser and/or an exfoliating composition. In addition, the compositions of the present invention are stable over time. By stable is meant that the composition does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties for at least one month, especially for at least two months, after its manufacture.
According to one embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials comprising ingredients of natural origin. Preferably, all the ingredients of the composition of the invention are of natural origin.
The compositions of the present invention are rinse-off products. Thus, such compositions are applied to the skin (i.e., the face and/or body) and then rinsed.
Other objects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples.
In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the numerical ranges are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between …" and ". multidot..
Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Throughout this application, the term "comprising" is to be interpreted as covering all specifically mentioned elements as well as optional, additional, unspecified elements. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which no element other than the specifically mentioned element is present (i.e., "consisting of …").
Thus, the composition of the invention comprises, in the aqueous phase:
a) at least one C2-C6A polyol;
b) at least one glycinate surfactant; and
c) at least 5% by weight of at least one water-soluble inorganic salt, relative to the total amount of the composition.
2 6One or more C-C polyols
The polyols according to the invention may preferably be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C's having at least two hydroxyl groups2-C6A polyol, a dialkylene polyol having at least two hydroxyl groups, or a mixture thereof.
As polyols which may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol, hexylene glycol or mixtures thereof.
The polyols of the present invention are preferably selected from linear C's comprising at least two hydroxyl groups2-C4Polyol, C comprising at least two hydroxyl groups2-C4A dialkylene polyol or a mixture thereof.
The polyol of the present invention is preferably glycerol.
In particular, the composition of the invention comprises from 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 60% by weight of C, relative to the total weight of the composition2-C6A polyol.
One or more glycinate surfactants
The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one glycinate surfactant.
In one embodiment, the glycinate surfactant is derived from a carboxylic acid salt of glycine, wherein the amine group located on the α -carbon or β -carbon of the glycinate is replaced by a C8To C22Acylation of the fatty acid derivative.
These carboxylic acid salts of glycine may be formed by conventional means, such as by neutralizing glycine with a base.
The amine group located on the alpha-carbon or beta-carbon of the neutralized glycine is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acid halide) in the presence of a base by the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction to produce an amide, thereby forming the desired surfactant reaction product, a glycinate salt surfactant.
Suitable acid halides for acylation of the amino acid carboxylate include acid chloride, bromide, fluoride, and iodide.
The acid halide may be obtained by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8To C22Fatty acids are prepared by reaction with thionyl halides (bromine, chlorine, fluorine and iodine). Representative acid halides include, but are not limited to, acid chlorides selected from the group consisting of decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride), cocoyl chloride (coconut oil derived fatty acid chloride), tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride), hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride), octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride), 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleanoyl chloride), eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride), docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride), and any mixtures thereof.
Other acid halides include bromides, fluorides, and iodides of the above fatty acids. Methods for preparing acid halides and alternative methods for acylating amino acids are set forth in U.S. patent application publication 2008/0200704, published on 21/8/2008, which is incorporated herein by reference.
In one embodiment, the glycinate surfactant is represented by formula (I):
Wherein:
z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
x and Y are hydrogen radicals,
n is a number of 0, and n is,
m is a salt-forming cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine, where COO is a counter anion.
Examples of glycinate surfactants are palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate and mixtures thereof.
In formula (I) preferably:
z represents a saturated straight chain C8To C22An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,
x and Y are hydrogen radicals,
n is a number of 0, and n is,
m is a salt-forming cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine, where COO is a counter anion.
Mention may be made of commercially available amino acid surfactants, for example Amilite from Ajinomoto®Sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the name GCS-12K, potassium cocoyl glycinate sold under the name Eversoft YCK-100K by Sino Lion corporation or Amilite sold under the name Ajinomoto corporation®GCK-12K is a product sold under the name GCK-12K and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the glycinate salt surfactant is sodium N-cocoyl glycinate.
According to the invention, the glycinate surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
One or more water-soluble inorganic salts
According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of at least one water-soluble inorganic salt, relative to the total weight of the composition.
By "water soluble" is meant that the inorganic salt has a solubility in water of at least 100 g/L at room temperature, preferably at least 200 g/L at room temperature.
According to one embodiment, the inorganic salts suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention have a structure selected from Na+、K+、Li+、Ca2+、Mg2+、Cu2+Or Zn2+And a cation selected from the group consisting of halide, HCO3 -Or HPO4 -The anion of (4).
Preferably, a halogen ion is used.
The cation is preferably monovalent or divalent. Preferred cations are selected from Na, Ca, Li, K, Mg, Cu and Zn.
Preferred salts are selected from sodium chloride, potassium chloride, lithium chloride, ammonium chloride or mixtures thereof.
These salts are known for their good solubility in water and are therefore very often used in cosmetic formulations to adjust the pH of the formulation, to thicken micellar systems or to help stabilize emulsions.
Surprisingly, the present inventors have found that the combination of ingredients in the composition of the present invention enables the inorganic water soluble salt to be present in the composition in particulate form, rather than being dissolved, thus providing a frosting function to the skin during application. Thus, the compositions of the present invention provide excellent and mild exfoliating effects to the skin.
The inorganic salt may be present in the composition in a content of more than 5% by weight, preferably from 6% to 40% by weight, preferably from 7% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is known to the person skilled in the art that salts, in particular water-soluble inorganic salts, have an influence on the foaming of compositions present on the market. Which in particular hampers foam generation or defoams in the cosmetic composition. To overcome this problem, conventional techniques use surfactants such as SLES in combination with low amounts of salts.
However, this type of composition does not provide an exfoliating effect because the salt is not present in the composition in particulate form. Furthermore, it does not provide a mild and gentle cleansing of the skin.
Surprisingly, the present invention makes it possible to formulate compositions for the cleansing and/or exfoliation of keratin materials comprising a high amount of salt in combination with glycinate surfactants and providing excellent lathering properties.
According to a preferred embodiment, said at least one C2-C6The weight ratio of the polyol to the at least one water-soluble inorganic salt is greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1.5 to 5. According to this preferred embodiment, the at least one C is due to the fact that the salt is in particle form and provides the skin with the desired abrasive feel2-C6The ratio of the polyol and the at least one water-soluble inorganic salt may ensure excellent cleansing and exfoliating effects.
Aqueous phase
The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one aqueous phase.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an aqueous solution.
According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises water.
According to one embodiment, the amount of water in the composition according to the invention is from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, in an aqueous phase, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) 20 to 60% by weight of glycerol;
b) 3 to 15% by weight of sodium N-cocoyl glycinate; and
c) 10% to 30% of at least one halide salt.
One or more additional ingredients
Optionally, the present invention also relates to a composition ("cosmetic composition") for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the composition of the invention as described above and at least one additional ingredient.
According to one embodiment, additional ingredients useful in the present invention include additional surfactants, such as anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, thickeners, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the additional surfactant is selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
Nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and glycerol; alkylene oxide esters of fatty acids and sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, such as, for example, the PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold under the name Arlacel 165 by ICI; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; ethanolamine and its derivatives, such as cocamide MEA; or ethers of fatty alcohols and sugars, in particular Alkylpolyglucosides (APG), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, for example sold by the company Henkel under the names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, respectively, cetearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, for example Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, Tegocare CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel, and arachidol glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidol, behenyl alcohol and arachidol glucoside, montarov 202 by the company SEPPIC.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants which can be used according to the invention can be in particular derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical is a straight-chain or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C)8-C20) Alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C)8-C20) Alkylamido (C)3-C8) Alkyl betaines and (C)8-C20) Alkylamido (C)6-C8) An alkyl sulfobetaine.
Among the useful optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the following structures (a1) and (a2), respectively:
RaCONHCH2CH2N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO-) (A1)
wherein:
·Rarepresents a derivative derived from an acid R preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oilaC of COOH10-C30Alkyl or alkenyl radicalsOr heptyl, nonyl or undecyl;
·Rbrepresents β -hydroxyethyl group, and
·Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;
and
Ra'CONHCH2CH2N(B)(B') (A2)
wherein:
b represents a group-CH2CH2OX',
B' represents a radical- (CH)2)zY', wherein z = 1 or 2,
x' represents a group-CH2COOH、CH2COOZ'、-CH2CH2COOH、-CH2CH2COOZ' or a hydrogen atom,
y 'represents a group-COOH, -COOZ', a group-CH2CHOHSO3H or a group-CH2CHOHSO3Z',
Z' represents an ion from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine,
·Ra'represents the acid R preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolysed linseed oila'C of COON10-C30Alkyl or alkenyl, alkyl, especially C17The radicals and their isomeric (iso) forms, or unsaturated C17A group.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5 th edition, 1993 under the names disodium cocoyl amphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium decanoamphodiacetate, disodium octanoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoyl amphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium decanoamphodipropionate, disodium octanoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate and cocoamphodipropionate. For example, mention may be made of the company Rhodia under the name Miranol®Cocoamphodiacetate sold by C2M Concentrate.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, it is preferred to use (C)8-C20) Alkyl betaines, e.g. cocoyl-sweetBetaine (or cocobetaine), and (C)8-C20) Alkylamido (C)3-C8) Alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the additional surfactant is selected from the group consisting of oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, (C)8-C20) Alkyl betaines or mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the additional surfactant, when present, is selected from PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate, cocoyl betaine or mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the amount of the one or more additional surfactants in the composition according to the invention, when present, is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Optionally, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one thickener.
The thickener can advantageously be selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, scleroglucan, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose (available as AQUACOTE)®Obtained), hydroxyethylcellulose (NATROSOL)®) Carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutyl methyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl cellulose (which can be used as KLUCEL)®Obtained from natural sources of natural®Plus 330), N-vinylpyrrolidone (available as POVIDONE)®Obtained as a copolymer of acrylate/cetyl polyoxyethylene (20) ether itaconate (available as a STRUCTURE)®3001 obtained from starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (available as starch)®XL), polyethoxylated urethanes or polycarboxypolyesters (e.g., PEG-150/Decyl/SMDI copolymers (e.g., ACULYN)®44) PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI copolymer (as ACULYN)®46), trihydroxystearin (which can be used as THIXCIN)®Obtained as ACULYN), acrylate copolymers (e.g. as ACULYN)®33) or hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (b)For example, acrylate/stearyl polyoxyethylene (20) ether-20 methacrylate copolymer (available as ACULYN)®22), acrylate/stearyl polyoxyethylene (20) ether-20 methacrylate crosspolymer (available as ACULYN)®88), acrylate/vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer (available as ACULYN)®38), acrylate/polyoxyethylene (25) behenyl alcohol ether methacrylate copolymer (available as ACULYN)®28 obtained) and acrylate/acrylic acid C10-30Alkyl ester crosslinked polymers (available as Carbopol)®ETD 2020).
When present, the thickener is present in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt%, more preferably 1 to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one additive. The type and amount of additives present in the compositions according to the invention can be adjusted by the skilled person by means of routine procedures so that the desired cosmetic and stabilizing properties of these compositions are not affected by the additives.
The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means capable of uniform distribution, in particular using a finger or cotton ball, stick, brush, gauze or spatula, and can be removed by rinsing with water.
The compositions of the present invention are useful for improving the general condition of the epidermis, in particular the skin.
The invention also relates to a method for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the invention to the keratin materials, in particular the skin.
The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin.
The following examples serve to illustrate the invention, but are not limiting in nature.
Examples
Example 1Preparation of examples
The following formulations were prepared.
Comparative formulations a1 and a2 contained sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium laureth sulfate, respectively, in place of the glycinate surfactants as set forth in the present invention.
The above-listed formulations were prepared according to known preparation methods in the cosmetic field.
Example 2Evaluation of the Properties of the above-listed formulations
The properties of the above-listed formulations of the present invention and comparative formulations were evaluated by 30 consumers (15 men and 15 women) aged 20-40 years by using the above-mentioned formulations as cleansing and exfoliating products.
The procedure was as follows:
0.5 g of the above-mentioned formulation was placed in the palm of a hand, respectively;
mix the formulation with 1 gram of water with a pipette;
rub between palms for 15 seconds (4 cycles per second);
gathering foam in the palm to prevent dripping;
evaluating the volume and density of the resulting foam;
evaluating the exfoliating effect of the formulation on the palm;
the foam was rinsed off with water and the skin feel after application was evaluated (mildness).
Finally, 30 consumers scored lather, exfoliate, and mildness.
A score of 5: at least 80% of consumers deem to be good and expected;
consumers scoring 4: 60% to 80% (not included) believe to be working well and are expected;
a score of 3: at least 50% of the consumers believe the effect is good and in line with expectations;
score 2 > 60% of consumers considered poor and unacceptable;
a score of 1: more than 80% of consumers deems the effect poor and unacceptable.
Stability was measured after 1 month storage at 4 ℃, 25 ℃ (room temperature or RT), 40 ℃ or 45 ℃.
Stability tests were also performed under the sun test and over the course of several cycles.
The stability under the sun test was carried out by placing the cosmetic composition of the invention in Suntest CPS + from Atlas for 24 hours.
The cycling stability test was performed for 10 days at cycles of-20 ℃ to 20 ℃ every 24 hours.
The evaluation results were as follows:
formulations | Stability of | Foaming | Exfoliating agents | Skin feel |
A | 5 | 4 | 4 | 3 |
B | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
A1 | 1, immediate phase separation | N/A | N/A | N/A |
A2 | 3, becoming thinner with time | 2 | 4 | 2 |
The results show that both inventive formulations a and B are stable over time, have improved lathering and skin feel (mildness) effects compared to comparative formulation a2, and in addition, they provide excellent exfoliation effects to the skin.
In particular, the formulation B of the invention has excellent properties in each of the above tests and is therefore a preferred embodiment of the invention.
On the other hand, comparative formulation a1 was unstable: phase separation was seen immediately after formulation.
Claims (14)
1. A composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials comprising, in an aqueous phase:
a) at least one C2-C6A polyol;
b) at least one glycinate surfactant; and
c) at least 5% by weight of at least one water-soluble inorganic salt, relative to the total amount of the composition.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said C is2-C6The polyol is selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C having at least two hydroxyl groups2-C6A polyol, a dialkylene polyol having at least two hydroxyl groups, or a mixture thereof; preferably selected from linear C comprising at least two hydroxyl groups2-C4Polyol, C comprising at least two hydroxyl groups2-C4A dialkylene polyol or mixtures thereof; more preferably, the polyol is glycerol.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said C is2-C6The polyol is present in an amount of from 10 to 70 wt%, more preferably from 20 to 60 wt% polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the glycinate surfactant is a compound of formula (I),
Wherein:
z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
x and Y are hydrogen radicals,
n is a number of 0, and n is,
m is a salt-forming cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine, wherein COO is a counter anion;
in formula (I) preferably:
z represents a saturated straight chain C8To C22An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,
n is a number of 0, and n is,
m, X and Y are as defined above.
5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the glycinate surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the water-soluble inorganic salt has a structure selected from Na+、K+、Li+、Ca2+、Mg2+、Cu2+Or Zn2+And a cation selected from the group consisting of halogen ions、HCO3 -Or HPO4 -An anion of (a); the salt is preferably selected from halides; more preferably, the salt is selected from sodium chloride, potassium chloride, lithium chloride, ammonium chloride or mixtures thereof.
7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the water-soluble inorganic salt is present in an amount ranging from 6% to 40% by weight, preferably from 7% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the at least one C2-C6The weight ratio of polyol to the at least one water-soluble inorganic salt is greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1.5 to 5.
9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water in an amount of from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, in an aqueous phase, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) 20 to 60% by weight of glycerol;
b) 3 to 15% by weight of sodium N-cocoyl glycinate; and
c) 10% to 30% of at least one halide salt.
11. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 10, further comprising at least one additional surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from the group consisting of the oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, (C)8-C20) Alkyl betaines or mixtures thereof.
12. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 11, further comprising at least one thickener.
13. A method for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying a composition according to any of claims 1 to 12 to keratin materials, in particular the skin.
14. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin.
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EP4358926A4 (en) * | 2021-06-24 | 2025-02-26 | Oreal | COMPOSITION FOR CLEANSING AND/OR REMOVING MAKEUP FROM KERATIN MATERIALS |
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