CN110897919B

CN110897919B - Antioxidant emulsified composition, application thereof and lip balm containing same

Info

Publication number: CN110897919B
Application number: CN201911372775.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 樊媛媛; 石蕊; 华寿虎
Original assignee: Nanjing Fenchem Biological Technology Co ltd
Current assignee: Nanjing Fenchem Biological Technology Co ltd
Priority date: 2019-12-27
Filing date: 2019-12-27
Publication date: 2021-04-13
Anticipated expiration: 2039-12-27
Also published as: CN110897919A

Abstract

The invention discloses an antioxidant emulsifying composition, which comprises 2-25% of D-panthenol, 5-40% of moisturizing dispersant, 0.1-5% of thickening agent, 5-80% of emulsifier and the balance of water by mass percent. The D-panthenol in the invention has an antioxidation effect and has a good capability of removing free radicals. And its use in lip care has not been previously disclosed. The lip balm has the advantages of mild and non-irritating formula, good repairing effect on lips, mildness and durability, capability of effectively resisting dry skin, improvement on lip elasticity and reduction of lip wrinkles.

Description

Antioxidant emulsified composition, application thereof and lip balm containing same

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of personal care, and particularly relates to an antioxidant emulsified composition, application thereof and a lip balm containing the same.

Background

The lips are extensions of the facial skin and are attached to the mucosa in the mouth. The lip skin is thin and delicate, the stratum corneum is very thin, and there are no glands and pigments. The lips are connected to the oral mucosa and are sensitive to irritation. Since it cannot secrete fats and oils by itself, it is susceptible to environmental influences.

The fine particles in the air such as PM2.5 have large specific surface area and are easy to carry harmful substances, and the free radicals of the organism are increased through oxidative stress and inflammatory reaction, so that the aging of the skin of the lips is accelerated. The fragile lips are also easily damaged by ultraviolet radiation and the like in daily environments. Exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation causes the formation of free radicals and oxidants, collectively known as Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). These free radicals can lead to oxidative damage to lipids, proteins and DNA, ultimately leading to oxidative aging of the skin of the lips as manifested by dry moulting, deepening of the lip lines, reduction of collagen and loss of lip elasticity, among other things.

In the prior art, lip care products are mainly focused on moisturizing. The lip oxidation resistance is rarely reported. It has been reported that sunscreens such as avobenzone, octocrylene, etc. are added to lip care products to block uv light to reduce the damage of free radicals to the skin of the lips. However, sunscreens have an unpleasant odour and are difficult to apply. In addition, lip care products are easy to access, and safety is a first priority, whereas sunscreens are not orally available.

In the prior art, traditional antioxidants such as vitamin E, vitamin C and the like are added into lip care products, but the antioxidant capacity is poor and the durability is not good.

D-panthenol is an alcohol-type derivative of pantothenic acid, which is converted in vivo to pantothenic acid, vitamin B5. D-panthenol is therefore also referred to as provitamin B5. In the field of skin care, D-panthenol can increase the moisture retention of the skin and can moisturize hair. At present, D-panthenol is mostly used in skin care products to improve the roughness of the skin and increase the softness of the skin; also widely used in hair washing and caring products to make hair have good elasticity, toughness and smoothness. At present, no research on the antioxidation aspect and no report on the lip care aspect of D-panthenol exist. Lip care products are mainly stick lipsticks or semi-solid lip balms, and are mostly full-oil products. D-panthenol is a water-soluble material and insoluble in oil, thus limiting its use in lip care.

In view of the above, the present inventors have found a novel efficacy of D-panthenol, expanded the application field of D-panthenol, and provided the efficacy of D-panthenol in oxidation resistance and the application in lip care.

Disclosure of Invention

The main purpose of the present invention is to provide new efficacy and new use of D-panthenol, which solves the problems of the existing lip care products, provides good oxidation resistance, has good repairing effect on lips, is mild and durable, is more practical and has commercial value.

The purpose of the invention and the technical problem to be solved are realized by adopting the following technical scheme.

The antioxidant emulsifying composition provided by the invention comprises, by mass, 2-25% of D-panthenol, 5-40% of a moisturizing dispersant, 0.1-5% of a thickening agent, 5-80% of an emulsifier and the balance of water.

In the antioxidant emulsifying composition, the moisturizing dispersant comprises one or more of propylene glycol, glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, pullulan, tremella polysaccharide, fucoidan, polyglutamic acid, beta-glucan, trehalose, sodium PCA and collagen peptide.

The antioxidant emulsifying composition, wherein the thickener comprises one or a mixture of several of guar gum or its derivatives, carrageenan, galactan, acacia, pectin, mannan, starch or its derivatives, xanthan gum, methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, alkyl modified carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylic acid polymers, polyethylene glycol, bentonite and carbomer.

The antioxidant emulsifying composition, wherein the emulsifier comprises one or more of sorbitan, polyoxyethylene, fatty acid ester, fatty acid soap and alkyl glycoside.

The object of the present invention and the technical problems solved thereby can be further achieved by the following technical measures.

According to the present invention, there is provided a method for preparing the antioxidant emulsion composition as described above, wherein the method comprises the steps of:

(1) completely dissolving D-panthenol, a moisturizing dispersant, a thickening agent and water at 55-65 ℃ to obtain a water phase;

(2) and (2) completely dissolving the emulsifier at 75 ℃, adding the emulsifier into the water phase obtained in the step (1), homogenizing for 10-30 min, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the antioxidant emulsified composition.

The object of the present invention and the technical problem to be solved are also achieved by the following technical means.

The invention also provides the use of an antioxidant emulsion composition as described above in the preparation of a lip care product.

The invention provides a lip balm, which comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 0.1-5% of the antioxidant emulsion composition, 0.1-30% of grease and 40-90% of wax.

The lip balm, wherein the oil comprises one or more of isopropyl myristate, cetyl caprylate, octyl dodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, olive oil, squalane, squalene, lanolin, wheat germ oil, camellia oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, perilla seed oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, coconut oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, shea butter, evening primrose oil and silicone oil.

The lip balm, wherein the wax comprises one or more of carnauba wax, candelilla wax, wood wax, rice wax, beeswax, Chinese wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, and microcrystalline wax.

According to the present invention, there is provided a method of preparing a lip balm as described above, wherein the method comprises the steps of:

(1) melting the oil and the wax at 75-90 ℃, and stirring for 20-30 min to uniformly mix the oil and the wax to obtain a mixture;

(2) adding the antioxidant emulsifying composition into the mixture at 50-75 ℃, uniformly mixing, placing in a vacuum drying oven, degassing under reduced pressure at 50-65 ℃ under 210Pa for 20-40 min, filling, cooling and forming to obtain the lip balm.

By the technical scheme, the invention at least has the following advantages:

(1) the antioxidant emulsified composition of the present invention mainly has an antioxidant effect and is D-panthenol, which is a new use of D-panthenol. The antioxidant emulsifying composition can be conveniently added into lipsticks and lip balms. The invention also provides a preparation method of the emulsified composition containing the D-panthenol, which is characterized by being capable of being directly added into an oil phase.

(2) The lip balm disclosed by the invention is mild, non-irritating and safe in formula, has a good repairing effect on lips, is mild and lasting, and can effectively resist dry skin, improve the elasticity of the lips and reduce lip wrinkles.

(3) The invention has the advantages of easily obtained raw materials, low cost, simple preparation process, easily controlled conditions and popularization and application.

In summary, D-panthenol has an excellent radical scavenging effect. The emulsified composition can be conveniently applied to lip care products, has a good repairing effect on lips, is safe, mild and durable, can effectively resist dry skin, improves the elasticity of the lips, and reduces lip wrinkles.

The foregoing is a summary of the present invention, and in order to provide a clear understanding of the technical means of the present invention and to be implemented in accordance with the present specification, the following is a detailed description of the preferred embodiments of the present invention.

The contents of the specific components and the preparation method of the present invention are shown in detail in the following examples.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be further described below by way of specific embodiments, but the present invention is not limited to only the following examples. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the invention can be modified and replaced with other components having the same effects without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, and all such modifications and substitutions are deemed to be within the scope of the invention.

The moisturizing dispersant according to the present invention is a component generally used in cosmetics, and is not particularly limited. For example, polyols including, but not limited to, propylene glycol, glycerol, and the like, polysaccharides including, but not limited to, sodium hyaluronate, pullulan, tremella polysaccharide, algin, polyglutamic acid, β -glucan, trehalose, and the like. Including but not limited to sodium PCA, collagen peptides, etc.

The oil or fat according to the present invention is a component generally used in cosmetics, and is not particularly limited, for example, synthetic oils and fats, including but not limited to isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate; natural oils including, but not limited to, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, olive oil, squalane, squalene, lanolin and its derivatives, wheat germ oil, camellia oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, coconut oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, shea oil, evening primrose oil; but also includes, but is not limited to, various silicone oils.

The ingredients for forming a certain hardness and structural support according to the present invention are generally waxes, which are ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, without particular limitation, such as natural waxes including, but not limited to, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, wood wax, rice bran wax, and beeswax; synthetic waxes include, but are not limited to, white waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, microcrystalline waxes, and mixtures thereof.

Emulsifiers according to the present invention include W/O and O/W type emulsifiers including, but not limited to, sorbitan, polyoxyethylene, fatty acid esters, fatty acid soaps, and alkyl glycosides.

Examples 1-4 antioxidant emulsion compositions of the present invention and preparation thereof

The antioxidant emulsion composition comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight of 100: 2-25 parts of D-panthenol; 5-40 parts of a moisturizing dispersant, namely glycerol; 0.1-5 parts of a thickening agent, namely xanthan gum; 5-80 parts of an emulsifier, namely a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyglycerol-3-oleate; the balance of water.

The preparation method comprises the following specific steps:

(1) completely dissolving D-panthenol, a humectant, a thickening agent and water at 55-65 ℃ to obtain a water phase;

The antioxidant emulsion composition is prepared according to the raw materials and the content ratio, and the specific components and the content are shown in the following table 1:

TABLE 1 ingredient content ratios of the raw materials in examples 1 to 4

EXAMPLES 5 to 7 lip balms of the present invention and preparation thereof

The lip balm comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight of 100: 0.1 to 5 parts of the antioxidant emulsion composition of example 3, 0.1 to 30 parts of fats and oils, here, refined soybean oil and lanolin, and 40 to 90 parts of waxes, here, beeswax and candelilla wax.

The preparation method comprises the following specific steps:

(2) adding the antioxidant emulsifying composition of the embodiment 3 into the mixture at 50-75 ℃, uniformly mixing, placing in a vacuum drying oven, degassing under reduced pressure at 50-65 ℃ and 210Pa for 20-40 min, filling, cooling and forming to obtain the lip balm.

The lip balm is prepared according to the raw materials and the content ratio, and the specific components and the content are shown in the following table 2:

table 2 shows the content ratios of the respective raw material components in examples 5 to 7

Comparative example 1

The preparation method was the same as example 5, except that a lip balm without an antioxidant emulsion composition in the raw materials, i.e., a lip balm prepared from 30 parts of refined soybean oil, 5 parts of lanolin, 25 parts of beeswax, and 40 parts of candelilla wax according to the method of example 5, was used.

Test example I evaluation of scavenging Effect of D-panthenol on free radicals

The evaluation of antioxidant activity is mainly carried out by an in vitro test system and an in vivo test system. The in vitro experiment system mainly detects the free radical scavenging capacity of the antioxidant, has the advantages of simple and rapid operation, sensitive reaction, low sample consumption and the like, and is a method for evaluating the antioxidant capacity of substances which is commonly applied at home and abroad.

There are various methods for detecting the ability of an antioxidant to scavenge free radicals, such as hydroxyl radical scavenging method, superoxide anion radical scavenging method, DMPD (N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine) method, DPPH (2, 2-diphenyl-1-piperidinoyl hydrazine free radical, 2, 2-diphenylpicrylhydrazyl radical) method, ABTS [2, 2' -azino-bis- (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt ] method, ORAC (oxygen radical absorption capacity) method, and the like. The DPPH method is widely researched and applied due to simple and rapid operation and high sensitivity.

Weighing DPPH standard substance in ethanol solution, preparing concentration gradient, and measuring the absorbance at 517 nm. And (5) drawing a standard curve by taking the concentration C as an abscissa and the absorbance A as an ordinate to obtain a regression equation.

Precisely weighing D-panthenol, adding anhydrous ethanol to desired volume of 100ml, and shaking to obtain stock solution. Respectively sucking 1.0ml, 2.0 ml, 4.0 ml, 5.0 ml and 10ml of the stock solution into a volumetric flask of 100ml, and fixing the volume with absolute ethyl alcohol. The final mass concentrations C were 5.1, 10.2, 20.4, 25.5, 51. mu.g/ml in absolute ethanol as experimental groups. 44, 88, 176, 220 and 440 mug/ml of BHT absolute ethyl alcohol are prepared as a control group. Preparing a series of solutions to be detected according to the sample adding amount shown in Table 3, measuring the absorbance A of the solution changing along with time at 517nm by adopting a dynamics monitoring method, taking the value for 1 time every 30s, completely reacting the drug with free radicals when the absorbance is basically unchanged, and recording the final absorbance. And (4) calculating the residual concentration of DPPH at different times according to the following formula, calculating the clearance rate of DPPH, and drawing a dynamic curve.

TABLE 3 Experimental sample addition

Absorbance value	Sample addition amount
		A0 (blank)	3.0ml of 45.32. mu.g/ml DPPH absolute ethanol solution +1.0ml absolute ethanol
Ai	3.0ml of 45.32. mu.g/ml DPPH absolute ethanol solution +1.0ml of sample solution
		Aj	3.0ml of absolute ethanol solution +1.0ml of sample solution

Free radical scavenging ratio (%) < 1- (Ai-Aj)/Ao 100%

In the formula: a0 is the blank absorbance of the DPPH solution without sample;

ai is the absorbance of the DPPH solution after the sample is added;

aj is the absorbance of the sample solution itself.

Calculation of half effective amount (EC50) and evaluation of free radical scavenging Ability (AE)

The DPPH clearance-sample concentration curve was plotted, from which the amount of sample used was half the effective amount (EC50) and the radical scavenging capacity (AE) at a DPPH clearance of 50% (steady state), AE 1/EC50, were calculated. The capacity of the antioxidant to scavenge free radicals is judged according to the size of AE. The larger the AE, the stronger its ability to scavenge DPPH.

The results of comparing half the effective amounts of D-panthenol and BHT are shown in Table 4:

TABLE 4 comparison of EC50 and AE for D-panthenol and BHT

Antioxidant name	EC50/μg/ml	AE
			D-panthenol	11.5	0.0870
BHT	234	0.00427

From the above results, it was found that DPPH is much stronger in the ability to scavenge DPPH than BHT, which has a good ability to scavenge free radicals.

Test example two, evaluation of stability of antioxidant emulsion composition

Firstly, testing items:

high temperature stability (45 +/-1) DEG C for three months, low temperature stability of-5 to-10 ℃ for one week, and high and low temperature alternation for one month. Returning to room temperature and observing smell, color, precipitation, demixing and the like.

Centrifugal stability: 3000rpm, 30min, and the presence or absence of delamination was examined. The results are shown in Table 5.

TABLE 5 stability evaluation

From the above results, it can be seen that the antioxidant composition of example 3 has excellent stability.

Test example III evaluation of dispersibility and stability of antioxidant emulsion composition in oil

According to the antioxidant emulsifying composition: olive oil 1: 9, and dispersibility and solubility were observed. And the solution was observed for precipitation after 24 hours. The results are shown in Table 6.

TABLE 6 evaluation of solubility and dispersibility

From the above results, it can be seen that the antioxidant emulsion composition of example 3 is not only very compatible with oil but also stable.

Test example four clinical observations of lip care efficacy with lip balm

Firstly, testing a test article: lip balm of example 5 (Experimental group), lip balm of comparative example 1 (control group)

Number of test population: 22, 16 female and 6 male

Age: between 18 and 45 years of age

Lip condition: the lips are dry and the lines of the lips deepen to different degrees. The groups were randomized into experimental and control groups. No other drugs were used 4 weeks prior to entry into the experiment.

Grouping: the groups were randomly divided into experimental and control groups.

Secondly, a test method comprises the following steps: the skin wrinkles on the lips were measured using a skin wrinkle tester, and the average roughness of the skin R3(μm) before and after use of the sample was calculated. The result is expressed as Δ R3 (i.e., the difference between the average roughness of the skin before and after the application of the sample), and a higher value indicates a better wrinkle improvement effect.

The experimental group applied the lip balm of example 5 every two hours, and the control group applied the lip balm of comparative example 1 containing only the same base without the antioxidant emulsion composition of example 3. After 8 hours the lips were observed and lip elasticity and wrinkles were measured. The skin elasticity of the lips was measured using a skin elasticity tester, and the result was expressed as the ratio of the amount of springback Ur (i.e., the value of the recovery of the skin after 0.1 second of negative pressure removal) to the maximum amount of stretching of the skin Uf, and the closer the value to 1, the better the skin elasticity. And finally calculating the effective rate. Specific results are shown in table 7:

TABLE 7 clinical efficacy of lip balms containing antioxidant emulsion compositions

Group of	Number of people	Elasticity of lip	Roughness of lip
				Experimental group	15	0.79	35.1
Control group	7	0.31	16.1

From the above results, it can be seen that the lipstick containing the antioxidant emulsion composition of the present invention is effective against dry skin, improves lip elasticity, and reduces lip wrinkles.

In conclusion, the antioxidant emulsified composition of the present invention mainly has antioxidant effect and is D-panthenol, which is a new use of D-panthenol. The antioxidant emulsifying composition can be conveniently added into lipsticks and lip balms. The invention also provides a preparation method of the emulsified composition containing the D-panthenol, which is characterized by being capable of being directly added into an oil phase. The lip balm disclosed by the invention is mild and non-irritating in formula, has a good repairing effect on lips, is mild and lasting, and can effectively resist dry skin, improve the elasticity of the lips and reduce lip wrinkles. The invention has the advantages of easily obtained raw materials, low cost, simple preparation process, easily controlled conditions and popularization and application.

Although the present invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, it should be understood that various changes, substitutions and alterations can be made herein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

Claims

1. An antioxidant emulsifying composition comprises 16% of D-panthenol, 24% of moisturizing dispersant glycerol, 0.5% of thickening agent xanthan gum, 35% of emulsifier glyceryl stearate and 15% of polyglycerol-3-oleate by weight percentage, and the balance of water, and the preparation method comprises the following steps:

2. Use of an antioxidant emulsion composition as claimed in claim 1 in the preparation of a lip care product.

3. A lip balm comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: the antioxidant emulsion composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of the antioxidant emulsion composition is 0.1 to 5%, the amount of the fat is 0.1 to 30%, and the amount of the wax is 40 to 90%.

4. A lip balm according to claim 3 wherein the oil or fat comprises one or a mixture of isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, olive oil, squalane, squalene, lanolin, wheat germ oil, camellia oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, perilla seed oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, coconut oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, shea butter, evening primrose oil, silicone oil.

5. A lip balm according to claim 3 wherein the wax comprises one or a mixture of carnauba wax, candelilla wax, wood wax, rice wax, beeswax, white wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite wax, microcrystalline wax.

6. A method of preparing a lip balm according to any one of claims 3 to 5 wherein the method comprises the steps of: