CN110820127A - Double-layer real silk crepe and production method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a double-layer silk crepe and a production method thereof. The fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns. The fabric structure is a flat weave structure, and each flat weave structure is a yarn arrangement and weave cycle. The flat weave structure includes an interweaving point area and a weaving area, the fabric located in the interlacing area includes an upper layer and a lower layer, and the fabric located in the interweaving point area is that the upper layer and the lower layer are intertwined to form a layer of fabric; the production method includes: The following characteristics: 1) Weaving into grey silk; 2) Degumming; 3) Printing or dyeing; 4) Water rinsing; 5) Pre-shrinking; 6) Setting. The raw material of the invention is 100% real silk, and the difference in stretchability between the upper and lower brackets is used to form a wrinkled fabric; the difference between enhanced twist and low twist results in a difference in gloss;

Description

A kind of double layer silk crepe and production method thereof

technical field

The invention relates to the field of fabrics, in particular to a double-layer silk crepe and a production method thereof.

Background technique

Silk fabrics are loved by people because of their soft properties. Especially 100% silk clothing, high-grade, good skin-friendly, especially popular. However, the 100% silk fabric has a disadvantage, that is, although the fabric is smooth, the elasticity is insufficient, and the single-layer fabric cannot form a wrinkle. Although the combination of multi-layer fabrics can form a convex wrinkle, the post-processing process is more complicated, which is not conducive to production. Moreover, the texture of the fabric is single, and it is impossible to achieve the characteristics of the same fabric in both feel and vision.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention provides a double-layer silk crepe and a production method thereof.

The technical scheme of the present invention is: a double-layer silk crepe, the fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, the weave structure of the fabric is a flat change weave structure, and each flat change weave structure is a yarn arrangement weave cycle, the The flat weave structure includes the interlacing point area and the interlacing area. The fabric located in the interlacing area includes the upper layer and the lower layer. The upper layer and the lower layer are two separate layers of fabrics. A layer of fabric is formed together; the weave structure of the upper layer and the lower layer in the tie-through area is a plain weave structure, the weave structure in the interlacing point area is a twill weave structure, and both the warp and weft yarns are 100% silk.

Preferably, the number of weft yarns in the interlacing point region is 8-24, and the number of weft yarns in the pass-through region is 24-64.

Preferably, the warp yarns of the fabric include two types of A and B. The warp drawing sequence of the fabric, that is, the warp yarn arrangement sequence in each yarn arrangement organization cycle unit is: an A yarn and a B yarn are arranged alternately, the The weft yarns of the fabric are all C yarns.

As further preferred, the two warp specifications of described A and B are as follows:

A: 3/20/22D/S factory yarn, that is, the warp yarn is made of three strands of factory yarn with a count of 20/22D twisted, the twist direction is S twist, and the twist is strengthened;

B: 2/20/22D/S mill yarn, that is, the warp yarn is made of two strands of mill yarn with a count of 20/22D twisted, the twist direction is S twist, and the low twist is added.

As a further preference, the specification of the C yarn is: 1/20/22D/S factory silk, that is, this warp yarn is formed by twisting a yarn with a count of 20/22D, the twist direction is S twist, and middle twist is added.

As a further preference, each flat weave structure includes 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns, and the 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns are one yarn arrangement cycle.

As a further preference, the weave structure of the fabric includes eight warp weaves from left to right with fifty top and eighteen bottoms, eight weft wefts with eighteen tops and fifty bottoms, and twenty fifty-one tops and seventeen tops. The warp weave at the bottom, the weft weave of twenty seventeen tops and fifty bottoms, the warp weave of the eight above fifty tops and eighteen bottoms and the weft weft of the eighteen eighteen tops and fifty bottoms are staggered. The warp weave of the 51st top and the 17th bottom and the weft weft of the 20th 17th top and 50th bottom are staggered; the odd-numbered warp yarns and the odd-numbered weft yarns are interwoven to form the upper layer of the fabric , the even-numbered warp yarns are interwoven with the even-numbered weft yarns to form the lower layer of the fabric; in the interlacing point area, all warp yarns and all weft yarns are intertwined to form an interweaving area.

As a further preference, the weave structure of the fabric is formed by interweaving 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns, wherein the weave point on the first warp yarn from left to right is the warp yarn two up and down three up down three up down three up Up three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down two up two down up The organization point is the warp one up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down Up three down up three down up three down up three down up two down two up two down, the weave point on the third warp yarn is the warp yarn down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down Three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, two up and down, and the weave point on the fourth warp is the warp three down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Next up, three down, up, three down, two up, two down, two up, the weave points on the fifth to sixteenth warp yarns are cyclically repeated for the weave points on the first to fourth warp yarns; on the seventeenth warp yarn The organization point of warp yarn is two up and down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down Three up down three up down up, the weave point on the eighteenth warp yarn is down one up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up Three down three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up two down, the weave point on the nineteenth warp yarn is down three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on , the weave point on the twentieth warp yarn is three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down UP 3 DOWN UP 3 DOWN UP 3 DOWN UP 3 DOWN UP 3 DOWN UP THREE The root to the organization point on the twentieth root.

Preferably, the finished weight of the fabric is 13±0.5m/m.

A production method of double-layer silk crepe, the production method comprises the following technical features:

1) Using factory silk as raw material, rapier looms are used to weave into grey silk; when rapier looms are used for weaving, the warp yarns are threaded through the twelve-piece brown zone, and the warp yarns in the interweaving area are from left to right. From the 9th to the 12th piece, the straight-through method is used in order, and the warp in the open area is from left to right in the 1st to the 8th piece. During the weaving process of the rod loom, the upper machine tension of the fabric is 50±5g; the weaving shrinkage rate of the finished silk is 6.12±0.2%.

2) Degumming the grey silk;

3) Printing or dyeing process;

4) Rinse in water, the water temperature is 60±5℃;

5) The pre-shrinking process is carried out on the grey silk. When pre-shrinking, the pressure used is 3-7 kg of steam pressure, and the speed is 3-7 meters per minute;

6) After pre-shrinking, carry out the setting process, the setting temperature is 140-175 ℃, and the speed is 7-13 meters per minute;

7) Drying, the drying temperature is 90-95℃, and the drying time is 5 minutes.

The beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: the present invention is a 100% real silk fabric, and the material components are single, which ensures the comfort and skin-friendly nature of the fabric, and at the same time, through the arrangement of the organizational structure, the interweaving point area and the opening area are formed, and the opening area is Inside, the fabric is divided into upper and lower layers, and in the interlacing point area, the fabric is intertwined together to form a layer of fabric, and the fabric surface forms a wrinkle (bubble crepe) by using the different elasticity differences between the upper and lower layers. The difference between the enhanced twist and the low twist results in the difference in gloss on both sides of the fabric, one side is matte and the other is glossy. The overall feel of the fabric is soft and comfortable, and has elasticity, and the texture of the fabric is three-dimensional.

Description of drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the organizational structure and yarn arrangement structure of the present invention.

Figure 2 is a wear diagram of the present invention.

Figure 3 is an enlarged schematic view of the structure of the present invention in rows 35-68.

FIG. 4 is an enlarged schematic view of the structure of rows 1-34 of the present invention.

Detailed ways

The present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings and embodiments.

As shown in the figure, the fabric of the present invention is interwoven by warp yarns and weft yarns. The weave structure of the fabric is a flat weave structure, each flat weave structure is a yarn arrangement cycle, and the flat weave structure includes interweaving points. The area and the connection area, the fabric located in the connection area includes an upper layer and a lower layer, the upper layer and the lower layer are separate and independent two-layer fabrics, and the fabric located in the interweaving point area is that the upper layer and the lower layer are intertwined to form a layer of fabric; the The weave structure of the upper layer and the lower layer in the opening area is a plain weave structure, the weave structure in the interlacing point area is a twill weave structure, and both the warp and weft yarns are 100% silk.

In this embodiment, the number of weft yarns in the interlacing point area is 8-24, and the number of weft yarns in the pass through area is 24-64.

In this embodiment, the warp yarns of the fabric include two types, A and B. The warp drawing sequence of the fabric, that is, the warp yarn arrangement order in each yarn arrangement organization cycle unit is: an A yarn and a B yarn are arranged alternately , the weft yarns of this fabric are all C yarns.

In this embodiment, the two warp specifications of A and B are as follows:

A: 3/20/22D/S factory yarn, that is, the warp yarn is made of three strands of factory yarn with a count of 20/22D twisted, the twist direction is S twist, and the twist is strengthened;

B: 2/20/22D/S mill yarn, that is, the warp yarn is made of two strands of mill yarn with a count of 20/22D twisted, the twist direction is S twist, and the low twist is added.

In the present embodiment, the specification of the C yarn is: 1/20/22D/S factory yarn, that is, the warp yarn is formed by twisting a yarn with a count of 20/22D, the twist direction is S twist, and the middle twist is added.

Low twist is between 1-8T, medium twist is between 8T and 20T, and strong twist is more than 20T. During the weaving process of the fabric, the warp yarns are enhanced twist and low twist, and the weft yarn There is only one specification with medium twist. Because the stretch rate of the reinforced twist and the low twist yarn is different, the shrinkage rate between the upper and lower layers is different, and there is an interweaving area, so in the open area, the upper and lower sides of the fabric are Layers create a wrinkled feel. Moreover, the reinforced twisted yarn will have a matte color, while the low twisted yarn has better gloss than the reinforced twisted yarn, so the glossiness of the upper and lower layers of the fabric is different, and one side is Matte color, glossy color on the other side.

In this embodiment, each flat weave structure includes 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns, and the 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns are one yarn arrangement cycle.

In this embodiment, the weave structure of the fabric includes from left to right eight warp weaves of fifty top and eighteen bottoms, eight weft wefts of eighteen tops and fifty bottoms, and twenty fifty-one tops and seventeen bottoms. The warp weave, twenty weft wefts of seventeen tops and fifty bottoms, the warp weave of the aforementioned eight fifty tops and eighteen bottoms and the weft weft of eight eighteen tops and fifty bottoms are staggered, and twenty The warp weave of 51 on the 17th bottom and the weft weft on the 20th on the 17th on the 51st are alternately arranged; in the traverse area, the odd-numbered warp yarns and the odd-numbered weft yarns are interwoven to form the upper layer of the fabric, The even-numbered warp yarns are intertwined with the even-numbered weft yarns to form the lower layer of the fabric; in the interlacing point area, all warp yarns and all weft yarns are interwoven together to form an interweaving area.

In this embodiment, the weave structure of the fabric is formed by interweaving 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns, wherein the weave point on the first warp yarn from left to right is warp yarn two up and down, three up and down, three up and down, three up and down Three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, three on, two on, two on, and the weave on the second warp The point is the warp one up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up Three down up three down up three down up three down up two down two up two down, the weave point on the third warp yarn is the warp yarn down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three Up and down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down One up, three down, three down, two up, two down, two up, the weave points on the fifth to sixteenth warp yarns cyclically repeat the weave points on the first to fourth warp yarns; The organization point is warp two up and down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up Up Down Three Up Down Up, the weave point on the eighteenth warp yarn is down one up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three Next Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Two Down, the weave point on the nineteenth warp yarn is down three Go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up, go up and go up The weave point on the twentieth warp yarn is three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up Three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up; the weave points of the twenty-first to fifty-sixth warp yarns are repeated for the seventeenth thread to the organization point on the twentieth root.

In this embodiment, the finished weight of the fabric is 13±0.5m/m.

A production method of double-layer silk crepe, the production method comprises the following technical features:

1) Using factory silk as raw material, rapier looms are used to weave into grey silk; when rapier looms are used for weaving, the warp yarns are threaded through the twelve-piece brown zone, and the warp yarns in the interweaving area are from left to right. From the 9th to the 12th piece, the straight-through method is used in order, and the warp in the open area is from left to right in the 1st to the 8th piece. During the weaving process of the rod loom, the upper machine tension of the fabric is 50±5g; the weaving shrinkage rate of the finished silk is 6.12±0.2%;

2) Degumming the grey silk;

3) Printing or dyeing process;

4) Rinse in water, the water temperature is 60±5℃;

5) The pre-shrinking process is carried out on the grey silk. When pre-shrinking, the pressure used is 3-7 kg of steam pressure, and the speed is 3-7 meters per minute;

6) After pre-shrinking, carry out the setting process, the setting temperature is 140-175 ℃, and the speed is 7-13 meters per minute;

7) Drying, the drying temperature is 90-95℃, and the drying time is 5 minutes.

Since the weave structure of the fabric is a flat weave structure, the weaving process adopts a relatively simple partitioned down-threading method, which reduces the complexity of the weaving work of browning. After browning, automatic production can be basically realized. The use of mechanized pre-shrinking reduces labor costs, improves production efficiency, and reduces production costs. Pre-shrinking is steam pressing. Under the action of twisting, the weft direction of the fabric shrinks, and wrinkle texture will appear after each certain warp yarn. Due to the difference in twist, the elasticity of the upper and lower layers is different, forming convex wrinkles The setting is to shape the fabric with wrinkled texture to prevent its deformation and improve the stability of the fabric; thus, the grey fabric does not need to undergo a chemical finishing process after weaving, which maintains the naturalness of the fabric and prevents chemical finishing. The raw materials remain on the grey fabric, causing skin allergies.

Claims (10)

1. a double-layer silk crepe, it is characterized in that this fabric is interwoven by warp and weft, the organization structure of this fabric is a flat change weave structure, and each flat change weave structure is a yarn arrangement organization cycle, the flat change weave structure. The organizational structure includes the interweaving point area and the interlocking area. The fabric located in the interlocking area includes the upper layer and the lower layer. The upper layer and the lower layer are two separate layers of fabrics. The fabric in the interweaving point area is formed by interweaving the upper layer and the lower layer. A layer of fabric; the weave structure of the upper layer and the lower layer in the open area is a plain weave structure, the weave structure in the interlacing point area is a twill weave structure, and both the warp and weft yarns are 100% silk. 2 . The double-layer silk crepe according to claim 1 , wherein the number of weft yarns in the interlacing point region is 8-24, and the number of weft yarns in the pass-through region is 24-64. 3 . 3. A kind of double-layer silk crepe according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the warp yarn of the fabric includes two kinds of A and B, and the drawing sequence of the fabric is that each yarn is arranged in the weave cycle unit. The order of warp yarns is: one A yarn and one B yarn are staggered, and the weft yarns of the fabric are all C yarns. 4. a kind of double-layer silk crepe according to claim 3 is characterized in that described A, B two kinds of warp specifications are as follows: A: 3/20/22D/S factory yarn, that is, the warp yarn is made of three strands of factory yarn with a count of 20/22D twisted, the twist direction is S twist, and the twist is strengthened; B: 2/20/22D/S mill yarn, that is, the warp yarn is made of two strands of mill yarn with a count of 20/22D twisted, the twist direction is S twist, and the low twist is added. 5. a kind of double-layer real silk crepe according to claim 3, it is characterized in that the specification of C yarn is: 1/20/22D/S factory silk, namely this kind of warp is the factory silk adding that a count is 20/22D. It is twisted, the twist direction is S twist, and the middle twist is added. 6. A double-layer silk crepe according to claim 3, characterized in that each flat weave structure comprises 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns, and the 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns are a yarn arrangement cycle . 7. A kind of double layer silk crepe according to claim 6, it is characterized in that the weave structure of this fabric comprises from left to right eight 50-up and 18-down warp surface weave, eight 18-up and 50-down weave Weft weave, twenty warp weave of fifty-one up and seventeen down, twenty weft weft of seventeen up and fifty down, the warp weave of the aforementioned eight fifty-one up and eighteen down and eight eighteen The weft surface weave of the top and fifty bottoms is staggered, and the warp surface weave of twenty strips fifty-one and seventeen bottoms and the weft surface weft of twenty seventeenth top and fifty one bottom are set alternately; The upper layer of the fabric is formed by interweaving the warp yarns with the odd-numbered weft yarns, and the even-numbered warp yarns interweave with the even-numbered weft yarns to form the lower layer of the fabric; in the interweaving point area, all warp yarns and all weft yarns are interwoven together to form an interweaving area. 8. A double-layer silk crepe according to claim 6, characterized in that the weave structure of the fabric is formed by interweaving 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns, wherein the weave point on the first warp yarn from left to right For the warp, two up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up and down Two up two down up, the weave point on the second warp yarn is the warp yarn one up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down One up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up two down two up two down, the weave point on the third warp yarn is warp yarn down three up Three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, two up, two up. The weave point on the fourth warp yarn is three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up Three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up two down two up, the weave points on the fifth to sixteenth warp yarns repeat the first to fourth cycle The weave point on the warp yarn; the weave point on the seventeenth warp yarn is warp two up, down, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up, three up Up three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down up, the weave point on the eighteenth warp yarn is down one up three down up three down up three down up three down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Three Down Up Two Down, the weave point on the nineteenth warp yarn is up three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up down three up Up down three up down three up down three up down three up, the weave point on the twentieth warp yarn is three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down One up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up three down up; The weave points of the fifty-six warp yarns are cyclically repeated with the weave points on the seventeenth to the twentieth. 9 . The double-layer silk crepe according to claim 1 , wherein the finished product weight of the fabric is 13±0.5 m/m. 10 . 10. a kind of production method of a kind of double layer silk crepe as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that this production method comprises the following technical characteristics: 1) Using factory silk as raw material, rapier loom is used for weaving into grey silk; when rapier loom is used for weaving, the warp thread is threaded through twelve brown zones, and the warp thread in the interweaving area is from left to right From the 9th to the 12th sheet, the pass-through method is used in sequence, and the warp in the open area is from left to right, and the pass-through method is used for the pass-through method between the 1st and 8th sheets. During the weaving process of the rapier loom, the upper machine tension of the fabric is 50±5g; the weaving shrinkage rate of the finished silk is 6.12±0.2%; 2) Degumming the grey silk; 3), printing or dyeing process; 4) Rinse in water, the water temperature is 60±5℃; 5) The pre-shrinking process is carried out on the grey silk. When pre-shrinking, the pressure used is 3-7 kg of steam pressure, and the speed is 3-7 meters per minute; 6) After pre-shrinking, carry out the setting process, the setting temperature is 140-175 ℃, and the speed is 7-13 meters per minute; 7) Drying, the drying temperature is 90-95℃, and the drying time is 5 minutes.

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