CN110629380A - Finishing method for solving problem that weft skew and torsion of single-sided cotton knitted fabric are inconsistent and cannot be balanced - Google Patents
Finishing method for solving problem that weft skew and torsion of single-sided cotton knitted fabric are inconsistent and cannot be balanced Download PDFInfo
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- CN110629380A CN110629380A CN201910973527.5A CN201910973527A CN110629380A CN 110629380 A CN110629380 A CN 110629380A CN 201910973527 A CN201910973527 A CN 201910973527A CN 110629380 A CN110629380 A CN 110629380A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B15/00—Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
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Abstract
The invention provides a finishing method for solving the problem that the mutual contradiction between skewness and torsion of single-sided cotton knitted fabric cannot be balanced, which specifically comprises the following steps: (1) weaving grey cloth; (2) preparing before dyeing; (3) inspecting, eating soft and dehydrating; (4) splitting the cylinder; (5) tentering and shaping; (6) and washing and drying the product. The finishing method of the invention meets the customer requirements that the appearance of the transverse bamboo joint lines of the finished fabric can not be deflected and the lower hem of the washed clothes is not twisted obviously, i.e. the weft skew and the twist of the finished fabric are balanced.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of cotton knitted fabric finishing methods, and particularly relates to a finishing method for solving the problem that the mutual contradiction between skewness and torsion of single-sided cotton knitted fabric cannot be balanced.
Background
The cotton knitted grey cloth is processed by dyeing and finishing, the grey cloth is 155g all-cotton slub single jersey, the appearance of the transverse slub lines of the finished fabric cannot be deflected during production, the appearance of the washed clothes is not obviously changed, the torsion degree of the lower hem is within 3 percent of the maximum standard of the current textile industry, and the skewness and the torsion degree of the finished fabric are balanced to the best.
Skewing and skewness are phenomena characteristic of single-face cotton knitwear and are also a pair of spearheads. In the actual dyeing and finishing production, the best of the dyeing and finishing is difficult to be considered. If the weft skew of the knitted fabric is large before shaping, the skew needs to be improved during shaping, and the twist degree of the fabric is increased. On the contrary, the inclination of the knitted fabric is increased to improve the twisting degree of the knitted fabric. If the single-sided knitted fabric of polyester cotton, spandex-containing blend and the like can balance the polyester cotton and the spandex-containing blend by using a process for improving the setting temperature, the single-sided knitted fabric of single all-cotton yarn cannot meet the requirement of the product at all according to the conventional weaving dyeing and finishing method.
The knitted fabric is produced by a knitting method in which a yarn is bent into a loop by a knitting needle and the loops are interlooped with each other. The cotton knitwear of the conventional plain stitch is woven by a multi-path single-side circular knitting machine along a circular spiral strip, one needle is drawn off during weaving to leave a longitudinal dropped stitch line, a cutting width line before shaping is made, when the cylindrical fabric is cut into a plane shape according to the longitudinal dropped stitch line, a transverse row coil and a longitudinal row coil are not mutually vertical, namely, a weft coil has an inclination, the appearance can be seen, namely, the phenomenon of skewness of weft is known, and the inclination is increased along with the increase of the number of paths during the circular knitting machine. The twist degree is the inherent quality of the fabric, and mainly shows the residual internal tension of cotton after various working procedures such as spinning, weaving, dyeing, shaping and the like, so that the final finished knitted fabric has the phenomenon of twisting deformation after falling into water and washing, namely the twist degree phenomenon. These phenomena are serious in single-sided cotton knitted fabrics and not obvious in double-sided knitted fabrics. Because the weight of the common single-sided cotton knitted fabric is light, the yarn is thin during knitting, the knitting needle is dense, and the horizontal and vertical lines are not obvious after the flat knitting is knitted, the inclination can reach the standard by adjusting the inclination on the basis of keeping the accurate torsion within 5 percent in the conventional dyeing and finishing production. However, the bamboo joint lines of the all-cotton bamboo joint fabric are more prominent, so that the horizontal and vertical lines of the fabric are obvious. When the fabric is woven, the circular knitting machine adopts closed-loop knitting, namely, the number of knitting paths is reduced to reduce the inclination of the fabric, and the requirement of the product cannot be met.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the problems in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a technical scheme of a finishing method for solving the problem that the weft skew and the twist degree of single-sided cotton knitted fabric are mutually contradictory and cannot be balanced. The invention changes the condition that the conventional finishing method can not reach the specific fabric, the fabric has no skewness, and can meet the quality requirement that the appearance change is not obvious after the fabric garment is washed, and the torsion degree is within 3 percent of the highest requirement of the current textile industry standard.
The finishing method for solving the problem that the mutual contradiction between the skewness and the torsion of the single-sided cotton knitted fabric cannot be balanced is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
(1) weaving gray fabric: knitting by adopting a single-side large circular knitting machine with the machine number of 24G, wherein the fabric tissue of the grey cloth is plain stitch tissue, and longitudinal needle missing lines reserved as cut-width lines are eliminated during knitting, so that the obtained cylindrical white grey cloth is all-cotton slub single jersey;
(2) preparation before dyeing: when the loose cloth joint is branched, the pieces are connected end to end, namely uniformly connected according to the sequence direction of the grey cloth during weaving, and the cloth ends are flatly connected and enter a dye vat for dyeing;
(3) inspecting, eating soft and dehydrating;
(4) cylinder slitting: automatically untwisting the dehydrated twisted rope-shaped grey cloth into a natural cylindrical state by adopting an infrared automatic untwisting and slitting machine, manually slitting to ensure that a cloth guide cage does not rotate, the size of a support frame is the same as that of the grey cloth, the cylindrical grey cloth smoothly passes through the support frame and is flat and free of overlapping, naturally slitting is carried out in the spiral direction of the cylinder during weaving by a single-sided circular knitting machine, and transverse coils and longitudinal coils are vertical to each other and do not generate skewness when the grey cloth is planar;
(5) tentering and shaping;
(6) and washing and drying the product.
The finishing method for solving the problem that the mutual contradiction between the skewness and the torsion of the single-sided cotton knitted fabric cannot be balanced is characterized in that the gray fabric finished product in the step (1) has the gram weight of 155g per square meter and the width of 160 cm.
The finishing method for solving the problem that the mutual contradiction between the skewness and the torsion of the single-sided cotton knitted fabric cannot be balanced is characterized in that the tentering setting conditions in the step (5) are as follows: the temperature is 145-160 ℃, the speed is 30-35 meters, and the overfeeding is 25-30 percent; the expanded width is 10-15cm larger than the finished product, and the air volume is 1500 r/min.
The finishing method for solving the problem that the mutual contradiction between the skewness and the torsion of the single-sided cotton knitted fabric cannot be balanced is characterized in that the conditions of washing and ring-drying finished products in the step (6) are as follows: the water washing temperature is 20 ℃, the time is 5 minutes, and the dehydration time is 5 minutes; secondary circular drying in a circular drying machine: the first time, the temperature is 95 ℃, the time is 35-45 minutes, the second time of circular drying is carried out after the materials are taken out and loosened and straightened, the temperature is 90 ℃, the time is 20-30 minutes, and the straightened and folded finished products are taken out and inspected and packaged.
The single-side large circular machine is a VVLD large circular machine produced and sold by weft dragon knitting machines, Inc. in Quanzhou city, the infrared automatic untwisting slitting machine is an SMA 982A-infrared automatic untwisting slitting machine produced and sold by Jiangdu Baoyuan printing and dyeing machines, Inc., the tentering and setting machine is a German babuchi BTM, washing machines and ring drying machine manufacturers are produced and sold by Wedges textile machines, Inc. in Jiangsu Tezhou, the grey cloth is 155g of all-cotton slub single jersey, and the ready-made clothes brand is H & M.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) the conventional longitudinal needle leakage thread which is reserved as a slitting line is eliminated, so that the gray fabric can be naturally slit into a plane shape in the spiral direction of a cylinder during weaving by a single-side circular knitting machine during slitting;
(2) the pieces are prepared before dyeing and are connected into a dye vat end to end, namely, the pieces are uniformly connected in the sequence direction during weaving of the grey cloth, so that the pulling tension of the grey cloth passing through the dye vat and the skewness of the weft caused by wetting, expansion and contraction of cotton yarn are the same deviation;
(3) the method is characterized in that an infrared automatic untwisting slitting machine is adopted to slit a cylinder, a twisted rope-shaped gray fabric after dehydration is automatically untwisted into a natural cylinder state, a cloth guide cage is not rotated manually during slitting, the size of a support frame is the same as that of the gray fabric, so that the cylinder gray fabric can smoothly pass through the support frame and smoothly and has no overlapped part to naturally slit the cylinder in the spiral direction during weaving according to a single-side circular knitting machine, and when the cylinder gray fabric is slit into a plane shape, transverse coils and longitudinal coils are vertical to each other, namely, no weft skew exists;
(4) the specific stentering and shaping conditions are adopted, so that the cloth surface of the all-cotton slub single jersey is flat and has no fine wrinkles, and the width is stable, thereby facilitating clothes cutting;
(5) the special conditions of the water washing and ring drying are adopted, and the purpose is to release the residual internal tension in the former production process of the grey cloth, so that the appearance change of the fabric after being made into a garment and washed is not obvious, namely the torsion degree can reach the standard.
By the finishing method, the appearance of the transverse bamboo joint lines of the finished fabric cannot be deflected, and the torsion degree of the lower hem of the washed clothes is required to be within 3 percent of the highest requirement of the current textile industry standard, namely the skewness and the torsion degree of the finished fabric are balanced.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described with reference to specific examples.
Example one
The grey cloth is 155g of single-sided cotton slub single jersey, the color is light yellow, and the ready-made clothes brand is H & M.
A finishing method for solving the problem that the mutual contradiction between skewness and torsion of single-sided cotton knitted fabric cannot be balanced specifically comprises the following steps:
(1) weaving gray fabric: knitting with 24G single-side circular knitting machine, and removing the conventional knitting process to leave the longitudinal needle-leaking line as the cut width line, wherein the grey cloth is cotton slub single jersey, the fabric tissue is plain stitch, and the gram weight per square meter of the finished product is 155G/m2The width of the door is 160 cm;
(2) preparation before dyeing: when the loose cloth joint is branched, the pieces are connected end to end, namely uniformly connected according to the sequence direction of the grey cloth during weaving, and the cloth ends are flatly connected and enter a dye vat for dyeing;
(3) inspecting, eating soft and dehydrating;
(4) cylinder slitting: automatically untwisting the dehydrated twisted rope-shaped grey cloth into a natural cylindrical state by using a machine number SMA 982A-infrared automatic untwisting slitting machine; then the cloth guiding cage is manually cut open to enable the cloth guiding cage to be not rotated, the size of the support frame is the same as that of the grey cloth, so that the cylindrical grey cloth can smoothly pass through the support frame to be flat without overlapping, the cylindrical grey cloth is naturally cut open in the spiral direction of the cylinder when being woven by a single-side circular knitting machine, and the transverse coils and the longitudinal coils are mutually vertical when being planar, namely, no weft skew exists;
(5) tentering and setting: adopting a tentering setting machine to carry out tentering setting, wherein the specific conditions are as follows: the temperature is 155 ℃, the speed is 35 meters, the overfeeding is 28 percent, the width of the expansion door is 12cm larger than that of the finished product, and the air volume is 1500 r/min;
(6) washing and ring-drying to obtain finished products: using a model XPB200 washing machine, at the temperature of 20 ℃, for 5 minutes, and dehydrating for 5 minutes; and (3) drying in a circular drying machine for the second time at the temperature of 95 ℃ for 45 minutes, taking out the straightened order, drying in the circular drying machine for the second time at the temperature of 90 ℃ for 20 minutes, and taking out the straightened order folded finished product for inspection and packaging.
The finishing method for solving the problem that the single-sided cotton knitted fabric is unbalanced in mutual contradiction between skewness and torsion, the appearance of the finished product back fabric is visually observed, the transverse bamboo joint grains are perpendicular to the longitudinal grains, and the internal quality indexes such as soaping fastness, rubbing fastness, shrinkage, torsion and the like meet the requirements of clients with industrial standards through tests.
The test results were as follows:
。
example two
The grey cloth is 155g of single-sided cotton slub single jersey, the color is light purple, and the ready-made clothes brand is H & M.
A finishing method for solving the problem that the mutual contradiction between skewness and torsion of single-sided cotton knitted fabric cannot be balanced specifically comprises the following steps:
(1) weaving gray fabric: knitting with 24G single-side circular knitting machine, and removing the conventional knitting process to leave the longitudinal needle-leaking line as the cut width line, wherein the grey cloth is cotton slub single jersey, the fabric tissue is plain stitch, and the gram weight per square meter of the finished product is 155G/m2The width of the door is 160 cm;
(2) preparation before dyeing: when the loose cloth joint is branched, the pieces are connected end to end, namely uniformly connected according to the sequence direction of the grey cloth during weaving, the cloth ends are smoothly connected, and then the cloth ends are dyed in a dye vat;
(3) inspecting, eating soft and dehydrating;
(4) cylinder slitting: automatically untwisting the dehydrated twisted rope-shaped grey cloth into a natural cylindrical state by using a machine number SMA 982A-infrared automatic untwisting slitting machine; then the cloth guiding cage is manually cut open to enable the cloth guiding cage to be not rotated, the size of the support frame is the same as that of the grey cloth, so that the cylindrical grey cloth can smoothly pass through the support frame to be flat without overlapping, the cylindrical grey cloth is naturally cut open in the spiral direction of the cylinder when being woven by a single-side circular knitting machine, and the transverse coils and the longitudinal coils are mutually vertical when being planar, namely, no weft skew exists;
(5) tentering and setting: adopting a tentering setting machine to carry out tentering setting, wherein the specific conditions are as follows: the temperature is 145 ℃, the speed is 30 meters, the overfeeding is 30 percent, the width of the expansion door is 15cm larger than that of the finished product, and the air volume is 1500 r/min;
(6) and (3) washing and ring-drying to obtain: and (4) using a model XPB200 washing machine, at the temperature of 20 ℃, for 5 minutes, and dehydrating for 5 minutes. And (3) drying in a circular drying machine for the second time at the temperature of 95 ℃ for 40 minutes, taking out the straightened fabric, drying in the circular drying machine for the second time at the temperature of 90 ℃ for 25 minutes, and taking out the straightened fabric folded finished product for inspection and packaging.
The finishing method for solving the problem that the single-sided cotton knitted fabric is unbalanced in mutual contradiction between skewness and torsion, the appearance of the finished product back fabric is visually observed to be vertical to the transverse bamboo joint lines and the longitudinal lines, and the internal quality indexes such as soaping fastness, rubbing fastness, shrinkage, torsion and the like all meet the industrial standard and the client requirement through tests.
The test results were as follows:
。
as can be seen from the test results of the first and second embodiments, the horizontal bamboo joint line appearance of the finished fabric can not be deflected, and the customer requirement that the lower hem of the washed clothes is not twisted obviously is met, namely the skewness and the torsion of the finished fabric are balanced.
Claims (4)
1. A finishing method for solving the problem that the weft skew and the torsion of single-sided cotton knitted fabric are mutually contradictory and can not be balanced is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) weaving gray fabric: knitting by adopting a single-side large circular knitting machine with the machine number of 24G, wherein the fabric tissue of the grey cloth is plain stitch tissue, and longitudinal needle missing lines reserved as cutting width lines are cancelled during knitting to obtain cylindrical white grey cloth which is all-cotton slub single jersey;
(2) preparation before dyeing: when the loose cloth joint is branched, the pieces are connected end to end, namely uniformly connected according to the sequence direction of the grey cloth during weaving, and the cloth ends are flatly connected and enter a dye vat for dyeing;
(3) inspecting, eating soft and dehydrating;
(4) cylinder slitting: automatically untwisting the dehydrated twisted rope-shaped grey cloth into a natural cylindrical state by adopting an infrared automatic untwisting and slitting machine, manually slitting to ensure that a cloth guide cage does not rotate, the size of a support frame is the same as that of the grey cloth, the cylindrical grey cloth smoothly passes through the support frame and is flat and free of overlapping, naturally slitting is carried out in the spiral direction of the cylinder during weaving by a single-sided circular knitting machine, and transverse coils and longitudinal coils are vertical to each other and do not generate skewness when the grey cloth is planar;
(5) tentering and shaping;
(6) and washing and drying the product.
2. The finishing method for solving the problem of unbalance between skewness and torsion of single-sided cotton knitted fabrics according to claim 1, wherein the finished gray fabric in the step (1) has a grammage of 155g and a width of 160 cm.
3. The finishing method for solving the problem of unbalanced mutual contradiction between skewness and torsion of the single-sided cotton-knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the setting conditions of the tentering in the step (5) are as follows: the temperature is 145-160 ℃, the speed is 30-35 meters, and the overfeeding is 25-30 percent; the expanded width is 10-15cm larger than the finished product, and the air volume is 1500 r/min.
4. The finishing method for solving the problem of unbalanced mutual contradiction between skewness and torsion of the single-sided cotton knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the conditions of the water-washing ring-drying finished product in the step (6) are as follows: the water washing temperature is 20 ℃, the time is 5 minutes, and the dehydration time is 5 minutes; secondary circular drying in a circular drying machine: the first time, the temperature is 95 ℃, the time is 35-45 minutes, the second time of circular drying is carried out after the materials are taken out and loosened and straightened, the temperature is 90 ℃, the time is 20-30 minutes, and the straightened and folded finished products are taken out and inspected and packaged.
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