CN110331498B - Method for making water ripples on mercerized wool without water leakage - Google Patents
Method for making water ripples on mercerized wool without water leakage Download PDFInfo
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 86
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a method for making water ripples on mercerized wool without water leakage, which comprises the following steps: s01, weaving, wherein the warp yarn is high-count Australian wool spun yarn; the weft yarn is a mercerized Australian wool worsted yarn; selecting weft surface satin weave as the weave; weaving on a machine to form a woolen fabric; s02, after-finishing, performing blank inspection, raw trimming, brushing, cylinder sewing, primary washing, dehydration, fulling, dehydration, piece dyeing, dehydration, softening, drying, fluffing, non-spunlace drawing, shaping, preshrinking, ironing and shearing on the woolen fabric woven in the step S01 to obtain a finished product of the mercerized wool without water leakage and water ripple. The process overcomes the problem that the mercerized wool is not easy to form water ripples, and produces the product with stable size, smooth and bright appearance, even water ripples, soft and thick hand feeling and better shaping, and the water ripple pricking pull breaks the routine carried out in water with the temperature of more than 60 ℃, thereby saving water, electricity and steam.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of water ripple manufacturing, and particularly relates to a method for making water ripples by mercerized wool without water leakage.
Background
Mercerized wool is the treatment of wool products by the mercerization process in the textile dyeing and finishing process. In China, wool is generally required to be firstly treated by BasolanDC chlorination or protease to destroy and strip hair scales on the surface layer of the wool, so that the difference between the friction coefficients of the wool in forward and reverse movement is reduced. The treated wool has linear luster and hand feeling and is commonly called mercerized wool. Some foreign treatment processes: the sheep wool is steamed in hot steam, stretched by 30-50%, and cooled and shaped by cold water, and the stretched sheep wool is called mercerized wool.
The water wave fabric meets the market trend, tracks the popular trend of the popular fabrics in the world, shows gorgeous and riches, has fashionable and personalized properties, and is popular with consumers. At present, water ripple products on the market are generally small, water ripples are not uniform, the uniformity of the suede is poor, the general luster is not enough, the hand feeling is slightly stiff, and the high-grade feeling is lacked. In order to form water ripples, the fabric needs to be pulled in water at 60-90 ℃ in the production process, so a large amount of water and electricity steam are needed, wherein the water is used for soaking the fabric, and the electricity and the steam are used for heating the water.
The wool and cashmere are easy to be water-rippled because the wool has the characteristics of scale and natural crimp, and the wool is removed after mercerization, so that the water-rippled is not easy to be produced. Aiming at the necessary conditions required by the formation of the water ripple product, the spinning system, dyeing, fluffing, stabbing, and the like are involved, a relatively stable process flow is obtained, and the requirement of the domestic market for large water ripple is met.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a method for making water ripples on mercerized wool without water leakage, which overcomes the problem that the mercerized wool is not easy to make water ripples, and makes a product with stable size, smooth and bright appearance, uniform water ripples, soft and thick hand feeling and better shaping, and the water ripple pricking pull breaks through the conventional process carried out in water at the temperature of more than 60 ℃, thereby saving water, electricity and steam.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the invention provides a method for making water ripples on mercerized wool without water leakage, which comprises the following steps:
s01, weaving, wherein the warp yarn is high-count Australian wool spun yarn; the weft yarn is a mercerized Australian wool worsted yarn; selecting weft surface satin weave as the weave; weaving on a machine to form a woolen fabric;
s02, after finishing, performing blank inspection, raw trimming, brushing, cylinder sewing, preliminary washing, dehydration, fulling, dehydration, piece dyeing, dehydration, softening, drying, fluffing, non-spunlace drawing, shaping, preshrinking, ironing and shearing on the woolen fabric woven in the step S01 to obtain a finished product of the mercerized wool without water leakage and water ripple.
Preferably, the usable range of the yarn count of the high count Australian wool worsted yarn is 48/2 to 70/2; the high-count Australian wool worsted yarn is prepared from spinning Australian wool tops and chinlon, wherein the Australian wool tops account for 85% and the chinlon accounts for 15%.
Preferably, the count of the mercerized Australian wool worsted yarn is 26/3, and 66 counts of the worsted mercerized Australian wool slivers are selected as raw materials.
Preferably, the weft-side satin adopts five to eight weft-side satins.
Preferably, the raising comprises: fluffing, pressing water, drying and fluffing again; the fuzzing is steel wire fuzzing, and the cloth feeding speed of a fuzzing machine is 15-20 m/min; the forward needle roller speed is 31-33 r/min, and the reverse needle roller speed is 28-32 r/min; the drying temperature is 100-120 ℃, the tentering is 160cm, and the overfeeding is 10%.
Preferably, the spunlace pulling without walking is carried out in a water tank, and after water is pressurized by a water press, the water directly enters a fruit pricking machine for spunlacing; the pressure of the water pump is set to be 1kg, and the vehicle speed is set to be 10 m/min; before the thorn is pulled, the thorn fruits are thoroughly poured and slowly pulled for 10 times.
Preferably, the shaping comprises: wet brushing, pressing water, drying, shearing, steaming and steaming in a pot; the shaping comprises the following steps: wet brushing, pressing water, drying, shearing, steaming and steaming in a pot; the wet brushing setting time is 22-26 hours; the drying temperature is 100-120 ℃; 3% of setting agent by weight is added in the front and back of the water press tank during water pressing; the steam ratio of the continuous steaming is 90 percent, the air suction and the expanding are 100 percent, and the vehicle speed is 10 m/min; the pressure in the tank for steaming is 1kg, the steaming time is 2min, the tension of wrapping cloth is 110-170 kg, the pressure of a pressure rod is 20-60 kg, and the temperature in the tank is 90-132 ℃.
Preferably, the pre-shrinking vehicle speed is 8m/min, the steam pressure is 3.5kg or more, the temperature of the hot air shaping box is 110 ℃, the width of the vehicle is 156cm, and the overfeeding is 8%.
Preferably, the lustring temperature is 105-115 ℃; more preferably, the lustre finishing temperature is 110 ℃.
The invention provides a mercerized wool water ripple woolen cloth.
The invention has the advantages of
The problem that the mercerized wool is not easy to form water ripples is solved, the product which is stable in size, smooth and bright in appearance, even and neat in water ripples, soft and thick in hand feeling and good in shaping is manufactured, the water ripple pricking and pulling breaks the routine which is carried out in water with the temperature of more than 60 ℃, and water, electricity and steam are saved.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a process flow diagram of the present invention.
Detailed Description
It should be noted that the following detailed description is exemplary and is intended to provide further explanation of the disclosure. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application belongs.
As introduced in the background technology, the invention provides a method for making water ripples on mercerized wool without water leakage, which aims to overcome the problem that the mercerized wool is not easy to make water ripples and make products with stable size, smooth and bright appearance, uniform water ripples, soft and thick hand feeling and better shaping.
In one embodiment of the invention, a weaving process is provided, which comprises the following steps:
weaving: the warp yarn is high count Australian wool worsted yarn; the weft yarn is a mercerized Australian wool worsted yarn; selecting weft surface satin weave as the weave; weaving on a machine to obtain the woolen fabric.
The warp used for weaving adopts high-count Australian wool worsted yarn, the raw materials adopt 85% of 64 Australian wool tops and 15% of chinlon, so that the cost is reduced, and the weaving efficiency is ensured; the weft adopts 26/3 worsted yarns, 66 worsted smooth Australian wool tops are selected as raw materials, and the spinning system not only ensures the necessary primary conditions of water ripple: the fiber length can ensure the luster of the finished product. Five to eight weft-side satins are selected as the weft-side satin. The weave mechanism mainly exposes weft yarns which are thick and dense, and the post-finishing water ripple is designed carefully in the process angle, so that the product is thick and fine. The textile technology is simple to operate and suitable for batch production.
In another embodiment of the invention, a process method of after-finishing is provided, which comprises the following steps:
and (3) after finishing: performing blank inspection, raw trimming, brushing, cylinder sewing, primary washing, dewatering, milling, dewatering, piece dyeing, dewatering, softening, drying, fluffing, non-water-jet drawing, shaping, preshrinking, ironing and shearing on the woven woolen fabric to obtain a finished product of the mercerized wool which is not subjected to water leakage and is used as water ripple.
Blank inspection, raw repair and brushing: and carrying out flattening inspection on the woolen fabric woven by the loom, repairing flaws and gaps on the woolen fabric, and brushing.
A cylinder sewing procedure: and (4) sewing the woolen cloth into a cylindrical shape on the side edge by using a cylinder sewing machine.
Primary washing-dewatering process: feeding the woolen cloth subjected to the opposite sewing of the cylinders into a woolen cloth washing machine for washing, wherein the woolen cloth washing time is controlled to be 20-30 min; after the initial washing is finished, the mixture is sent to a dehydrator for dehydration, and the dehydration rate reaches 70-80%. The used cleaning agents are: lotion FY, available from Tai' an Longyuan adjuvant, Inc.
Milling-dewatering process: feeding the washed woolen cloth into a fulling machine, adding a fulling agent accounting for 3% of the weight of the fabric for fulling treatment, controlling the pH value of the fulling agent to be 6-8, controlling the fulling time to be 40-60 min, controlling the water temperature to be 35-45 ℃ in the fulling process, and feeding the fulling treatment into a dehydrator for dehydration treatment after the fulling treatment is finished; the used fulling agents are: FK-616AK, available from Beijing Zhongjin chemical Co., Ltd.
Piece dyeing-dehydration procedure: generally, the dyeing of the water ripple is performed after the spinning process before the weaving. The method is inefficient and time consuming to dye the spun yarn after spinning is completed. The invention adopts a piece dyeing process to dye the whole fabric after weaving. After the piece dyeing is provided with the procedures of initial washing, dehydration, fulling and dehydration, the color is ensured and the piece dyeing is relatively stable. The method is simple to operate, can dye various colors, has short production period of finished products, and can meet the requirements of customers as soon as possible. And (5) after the piece dyeing is finished, sending the piece dyed piece into a dehydrator for dehydration treatment.
Softening-drying: adding a softening agent to perform softening treatment on the woolen cloth, then flatly paving the woolen cloth and conveying the woolen cloth into a dryer, and controlling the temperature of the dryer to be 75-85 ℃. The softening agents used were: FK-220E18, available from Beijing Zhongjin Chemicals Co.
A fluffing procedure: comprises the procedures of raising, pressing water, drying and raising again; the fuzzing is steel wire fuzzing, and the cloth feeding speed of a fuzzing machine is 15-20 m/min; the forward needle roller speed is 31-33 r/min, and the reverse needle roller speed is 28-32 r/min; the drying temperature is 100-120 ℃, the tentering is 160CM, and the overfeeding is 10%. The worsted yarn has longer fiber, has quicker width recovery under the tension state, is easy to have narrow width, and adopts the processes of fluffing, pressing water, drying and fluffing again to solve the problem. The process ensures the stability of the after-finishing process, and has the advantages of enabling the suede to be thicker and denser by secondary fluffing. Not only ensures the wool density, but also solves the problem of narrow width.
No water jet drawing process is carried out: in order to avoid spunlace pulling, the spunlace pulling is not carried out in a water tank, and the spunlace pulling is directly carried out in a thorn machine after being pressurized by a water pressing machine; the pressure of the water pump is set to be 1kg, and the vehicle speed is set to be 10 m/min; before pulling, the thorn fruits are watered thoroughly and pulled slowly for 10 times. The water wave pricking is generally carried out in water, the fabric is fed into a pricking machine, a water tank is arranged at the front end of the pricking machine, the water temperature in the water tank is controlled to be 65-85 ℃, and the fabric is firstly fed into the water tank to be completely soaked and then fed into the pricking machine to be pricked in the transmission process. The invention adopts the method that the water needling is not carried out, the fabric is not immersed in water, the fabric enters a water pressing machine to press water after fluffing, 1kg of low-pressure water is adopted to ensure that the fabric has a certain amount of water, and then the fabric is directly arranged on a fruit pricking machine to carry out the water needling. After the water wave is stabbed and pulled, the hair of the water wave is smooth, the water wave is even and regular, and water, electricity and steam are saved.
Shaping: comprises the working procedures of wet brushing, water pressing, drying, shearing, continuous steaming and pot steaming; the wet brushing and shaping time is 22-26 hours; the drying temperature is 100-120 ℃; adding a setting agent accounting for 3 percent of the weight of the fabric in front and back of a water press groove during water pressing; the steam ratio of continuous steaming is 90 percent, the air suction and the expanding are 100 percent, the braking is 20 percent, and the vehicle speed is 10 m/min; the pressure in the tank for steaming is 1kg, the steaming time is 2min, the tension of the wrapping cloth is 110-170 kg, the pressure of the pressure rod is 20-60 kg, and the temperature in the tank is 90-132 ℃. The finished product shaped by the method has obvious and even water ripple and better shaping effect. The setting agent is as follows: LY fixative available from tialong source adjuvant ltd.
Pre-shrinking, ironing and polishing and shearing: the woolen cloth was preshrunk-treated using a chain-type steaming preshrunk machine manufactured by italian F2 company, the speed of the vehicle was 8m/min, the steam pressure was 3.5kg or more, and the temperature of the hot air setting tank was: 110 ℃, width of the taxi: 156cm, 8% overfeed. The main functions of the process are as follows: steam setting and tension releasing of the fabric; processing the surface of the wool fabric by using a natural luster finishing machine, wherein the natural luster finishing temperature is 100-120 ℃; shearing the surface of the woolen cloth after the ironing and polishing treatment, and treating the protruding mixed hair and long hair on the surface of the woolen cloth.
Example 1
S01, weaving:
the warp yarn is selected from an 48/2 Australian wool worsted yarn; the weft yarns are 26/3 mercerized Australian wool worsted yarns; selecting seven weft surfaces for forging; s02, after-finishing:
blank inspection, raw repair and brushing: and carrying out flattening inspection on the woolen fabric woven by the loom, repairing flaws and gaps on the woolen fabric, and brushing.
A cylinder sewing procedure: and (4) forming the woolen cloth into a cylindrical shape on the side seam by using a machine.
Primary washing-dewatering process: feeding the woolen cloth after the opposite sewing of the cylinders into a woolen cloth washing machine for washing, wherein the woolen cloth washing time is controlled to be 30 min; after the initial washing is finished, the mixture is sent to a dehydrator for dehydration, and the dehydration rate reaches 80 percent. The used cleaning agents are:
milling-dewatering process: feeding the washed woolen cloth into a fulling machine, adding a fulling agent accounting for 3% of the weight of the fabric for fulling treatment, controlling the pH value of the fulling agent to be 7, controlling the fulling time to be 50min, controlling the water temperature in the fulling process to be 40 ℃, and feeding the fulling treatment into a dehydrator for dehydration treatment after the fulling treatment is finished; the used fulling agents are:
piece dyeing-dehydration procedure: dyeing the whole fabric after weaving; and (5) after the piece dyeing is finished, sending the piece dyed piece into a dehydrator for dehydration treatment.
Softening-drying: adding a softening agent to perform softening treatment on the woolen cloth, then flatly paving the woolen cloth and conveying the woolen cloth into a dryer, and controlling the temperature of the dryer at 80 ℃. The softening agents used were:
a fluffing procedure: comprises the procedures of raising, pressing water, drying and raising again; the fuzzing is steel wire fuzzing, and the cloth feeding speed of a fuzzing machine is 17 m/min; the forward needle roller speed is 32 r/min, and the reverse needle roller speed is 30 r/min; the drying temperature is 110 ℃, the tentering is 160cm, and the overfeeding is 10%.
No water jet drawing process is carried out: the pressure of the water pump is set to be 1kg, and the vehicle speed is set to be 10 m/min; before pulling, the thorn fruits are watered thoroughly and pulled slowly for 10 times.
Shaping: the wet brushing and shaping time is 24 hours; the drying temperature is 110 ℃; 3 percent of setting agent is added in the front and back of the water press tank during water pressing; the steam ratio of continuous steaming is 90 percent, the air suction and the expanding are 100 percent, the braking is 20 percent, and the vehicle speed is 10 m/min; the pressure in the pot for steaming is 1kg, the time for steaming is 2 minutes, the tension of the wrapping cloth is 110kg, the pressure of the pressure rod is 20kg, and the temperature in the pot is 92 ℃.
Pre-shrinking, ironing and polishing and shearing: the woolen cloth was preshrunk-treated using a chain-type steaming preshrunk machine manufactured by italian F2 company, the speed of the vehicle was 8m/min, the steam pressure was 3.5kg or more, and the temperature of the hot air setting tank was: 110 ℃, width of the taxi: 156cm, 8% overfeed. Processing the surface of the woolen cloth by using a natural luster finishing machine, wherein the natural luster finishing temperature is 110 ℃; shearing the surface of the woolen cloth after the ironing and polishing treatment, and treating the protruding mixed hair on the surface of the woolen cloth.
Example 2
S01, weaving:
the warp yarn is selected from an 70/2 Australian wool worsted yarn; the weft yarns are 26/3 mercerized Australian wool worsted yarns; selecting five weft surface forgings; s02, after-finishing:
blank inspection, raw repair and brushing: and carrying out flattening inspection on the woolen fabric woven by the loom, repairing flaws and gaps on the woolen fabric, and brushing.
A cylinder sewing procedure: and (4) forming the woolen cloth into a cylindrical shape on the side seam by using a machine.
Primary washing-dewatering process: feeding the woolen cloth after the opposite sewing of the cylinders into a woolen cloth washing machine for washing, wherein the woolen cloth washing time is controlled to be 30 min; after the initial washing is finished, the mixture is sent to a dehydrator for dehydration, and the dehydration rate reaches 80 percent. The used cleaning agents are:
milling-dewatering process: feeding the washed woolen cloth into a fulling machine, adding a fulling agent accounting for 3% of the weight of the fabric for fulling treatment, controlling the pH value of the fulling agent to be 7, controlling the fulling time to be 50min, controlling the water temperature in the fulling process to be 40 ℃, and feeding the fulling treatment into a dehydrator for dehydration treatment after the fulling treatment is finished; the used fulling agents are:
piece dyeing-dehydration procedure: dyeing the whole fabric after weaving; and (5) after the piece dyeing is finished, sending the piece dyed piece into a dehydrator for dehydration treatment.
Softening-drying: adding a softening agent to perform softening treatment on the woolen cloth, then flatly paving the woolen cloth and conveying the woolen cloth into a dryer, and controlling the temperature of the dryer at 80 ℃. The softening agents used were:
a fluffing procedure: comprises the procedures of raising, pressing water, drying and raising again; the fuzzing is steel wire fuzzing, and the cloth feeding speed of a fuzzing machine is 20 m/min; the forward needle roller speed is 30 r/min, and the reverse needle roller speed is 32 r/min; the drying temperature is 115 ℃, the tentering is 160cm, and the overfeeding is 10%.
No water jet drawing process is carried out: the pressure of the water pump is set to be 1kg, and the vehicle speed is set to be 10 m/min; before pulling, the thorn fruits are watered thoroughly and pulled slowly for 10 times.
Shaping: the wet brushing and shaping time is 22 hours; the drying temperature is 110 ℃; 3 percent of setting agent is added in the front and back of the water press tank during water pressing; the steam ratio of continuous steaming is 90 percent, the air suction and the expanding are 100 percent, the braking is 20 percent, and the vehicle speed is 10 m/min; the pot pressure of the pot steaming is 1kg, the pot steaming time is 2min, the tension of the wrapping cloth is 170kg, the pressure of the compression bar is 60kg, and the temperature in the pot is 130 ℃.
Pre-shrinking, ironing and polishing and shearing: the woolen cloth was preshrunk-treated using a chain-type steaming preshrunk machine manufactured by italian F2 company, the speed of the vehicle was 8m/min, the steam pressure was 3.5kg or more, and the temperature of the hot air setting tank was: 110 ℃, width of the taxi: 156cm, 8% overfeed. Processing the surface of the woolen cloth by using a natural luster finishing machine, wherein the natural luster finishing temperature is 110 ℃; shearing the surface of the woolen cloth after the ironing and polishing treatment, and treating the protruding mixed hair on the surface of the woolen cloth.
Comparative example
The procedure was the same as in example 1 except for the piercing-drawing step.
And (3) a piercing and drawing process: filling hot water with the temperature of 70 ℃ in front and rear water tanks of a water pressing machine, adding a sizing agent accounting for 3% of the weight of the fabric, enabling the woolen cloth to bypass a transmission roller shaft in the water tanks, immersing the woolen cloth into the water tanks along the transmission roller shaft, and continuously conveying the woolen cloth to the bur positions for bur pulling after the woolen cloth is fully contacted with the water in the water tanks for 45 s.
Product quality detection
Physical index detection is carried out on the water ripple woolen cloth prepared in the example 1 and the example 2, and the detection results are shown in the following table 1:
TABLE 1 physical index
As can be seen from Table 1, the product produced by the invention has the advantages of width completely meeting the standard requirements, smaller gram weight change amplitude, lower shrinkage rate and first-class product quality. The physical indexes are better than those of the comparative example.
Water, gas and electricity fee meter
The water, gas and electricity consumption of the thorn drawing process is calculated, and the result is shown in Table 2
TABLE 2 Water, gas and electric consumption of the Czochralski process
As can be seen from Table 2, the comparative example needs to be pulled in a water tank, and the water in the water tank needs to be kept at more than 60 ℃, so the water, gas and electricity consumed by the comparative example are far higher than those consumed by the example 1 and the example 2, and the water ripple making process without water leakage can greatly save energy consumption and economic cost by adopting the water ripple making process without water leakage.
The above embodiments are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby, and any insubstantial changes and substitutions made by those skilled in the art based on the present invention are within the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (4)
1. A method for making water ripples on mercerized wool without water leakage is characterized by comprising the following steps:
s01, weaving, wherein the warp yarn is high-count Australian wool spun yarn; the weft yarn is a mercerized Australian wool worsted yarn; selecting weft surface satin weave as the weave; weaving on a machine to obtain woolen fabrics; the usable range of the yarn count of the high count Australian wool worsted yarn is 48/2-70/2; the high-count Australian wool worsted yarn is prepared from worsted Australian wool tops and chinlon, wherein the worsted Australian wool tops account for 85%, and the chinlon accounts for 15%; the count of the mercerized Australian wool worsted yarn is 26/3, and 66 counts of mercerized Australian wool slivers are selected as raw materials; five to eight weft surface satins are selected as the weft surface satin;
s02, after finishing, performing blank inspection, raw trimming, brushing, cylinder sewing, primary washing, dehydration, fulling, dehydration, piece dyeing, dehydration, softening, drying, fluffing, non-spunlace drawing, shaping, preshrinking, ironing and shearing on the woolen fabric woven in the step S01 to obtain a finished product of the mercerized wool without water leakage and with water ripples, wherein the fluffing comprises the following steps: fluffing, pressing water, drying and fluffing again; the fuzzing is steel wire fuzzing, and the cloth feeding speed of a fuzzing machine is 15-20 m/min; the forward needle roller speed is 31-33 r/min, and the reverse needle roller speed is 28-32 r/min; the drying temperature is 100-120 ℃, the tentering is 160cm, and the overfeeding is 10%; the non-spunlace pulling is that the spunlace pulling is not carried out in a water tank, and the spunlace pulling is directly carried out in a thorn machine after being pressurized by a water press; the pressure of the water pump is set to be 1kg, and the vehicle speed is set to be 10 m/min; before the thorn is pulled, the thorn fruits are thoroughly poured, and the thorn fruits are slowly pulled for 10 times; the shaping comprises the following steps: wet brushing, pressing water, drying, shearing, steaming and steaming in a pot; the wet brushing setting time is 22-26 hours; the drying temperature is 100-120 ℃; 3% of setting agent by weight is added in the front and back of the water press tank during water pressing; the steam ratio of the continuous steaming is 90 percent, the air suction and the expanding are 100 percent, and the vehicle speed is 10 m/min; the pressure in the tank for steaming is 1kg, the steaming time is 2min, the tension of wrapping cloth is 110-170 kg, the pressure of a pressure rod is 20-60 kg, and the temperature in the tank is 90-132 ℃.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the pre-shrinking vehicle speed is 8m/min, the steam pressure is 3.5kg, the temperature of the hot air setting box is 110 ℃, the width is 156cm, and the overfeeding is 8%.
3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the blanching temperature is 105-115 ℃.
4. A mercerized wool-water corrugated wool fabric produced by the method of any one of claims 1 to 3.
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| CN113882063B (en) * | 2021-10-27 | 2023-07-28 | 山东康平纳集团有限公司 | Method for making full Mao Duanshun fabric by using combed short hair |
| CN115369545B (en) * | 2022-08-03 | 2024-06-21 | 泰安金绒毛纺织有限公司 | Double-sided lattice type wool/grain staggered wool fabric and preparation method thereof |
| CN116926835A (en) * | 2023-07-20 | 2023-10-24 | 内蒙古鄂尔多斯资源股份有限公司 | After-finishing processing method of fabric and fabric |
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| CN108456971A (en) * | 2018-03-19 | 2018-08-28 | 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 | A kind of production technology that pure wool water ripples are two-sided |
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