New cosmetic use of rambutan extract
The invention aims at the cosmetic use of the rambutan plant extract.
Hair follicles consist of an outer sheath, an inner sheath, and a hair shaft (individual hairs, produced by highly proliferating cells of epithelial origin located in the lower half of the follicle (hair bulb)) attached to the epidermis (corresponding to the scalp) of the surrounding skin tissue. These fibroblasts are involved in regulating the growth of hair and the skin papilla by triggering the hair follicle into its growth phase, anagen, catagen or catagen, telogen or telogen phases. The regulation of the hair cycle depends on a variety of molecular information and factors that direct proliferation, migration, differentiation and interaction of the various cells that assemble the hair follicle and its hair bulb. However, many external and environmental factors are involved in the proliferation of these cells and their differentiation. Mention will be made in particular of Ultraviolet (UV) radiation, hormonal changes, age and toxic substances or pollutants. These environmental factors have direct consequences for hair loss, but more commonly affect the skin, including the scalp.
These factors will affect the expression of certain molecular or genetic targets or in particular their proteins (among which are collagen, myofibrillar proteins, endocape proteins or ATP as nucleotide). The importance of energy metabolism and in particular mitochondrial activity in hair follicles during the transition from telogen to anagen has been demonstrated. Stimulation of ATP in papilla fibroblasts is also indicative of the metabolic activity of the papilla fibroblasts, and may promote hair growth.
In hair follicles, myofibril-1 binds to LTBP-1, a confirmed hair bulb marker. It plays an important role in epithelial and mesenchymal stem cell differentiation. In the hair follicle, myofibril-1 is expressed all the way along the connective tissue sheath of the individual hair, at the junction between the hair follicle and the scalp. Myofibril-1 is also expressed in the dermal papilla and is thought to play a role in anchoring individual hair to the scalp.
Thus, fibroblasts of the skin papilla constitute an important target for individual hair growth, more generally hair care. Hair aging is a selection marker for evaluating the potential of an active agent to reduce hair loss or promote hair growth.
There are three strategies for promoting or maintaining hair density, either by stimulating anagen phase, reducing shedding of existing hair (e.g., by anchoring individual hair to the scalp), or by promoting a new growth cycle by forming or growing new individual hair. In particular, ingredients in the field of medicaments for stimulating hair growth and combating hair loss are known. They are specialized chemical molecules for the treatment of hair loss, mainly androgenic hair loss or hormone-dependent pathologies. Moreover, there are various solutions in the field of cosmetic cosmetics. On the other hand, few components are known to simultaneously stimulate several specific targets located in hair follicles, enabling the enhancement of hair follicles.
Rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum) plant, also known as rambutan (rambutan), is a tree found in southeast asia, particularly malaysia and indonesia. It is a tree 10 to 20 meters tall, producing a large number of fruits. Such fruits are known for their organoleptic properties and contain high doses of sugar, vitamin C and iron. Decoction of dry roots or leaves has also been used to combat fever.
The use of rambutan plants in cosmetic compositions is known. Thus, application JP2002145730 describes seed extracts which have antioxidant and skin bleaching effects as well as moisturizing properties. However, this application neither describes nor discloses in a specific way the use of said plant extracts for enhancing hair follicles or for reducing hair loss.
Application JP2001220344 discloses that a list of plant extracts obtained by distillation may be present in various cosmetic compositions, one of which is rambutan seed extract. However, the application does not disclose the use of rambutan extract for preventing hair loss or for enhancing hair follicles.
Application JP19910189133 discloses the use of one or more plant extracts, one of which is rambutan extract, as testosterone-5-alpha reductase inhibitors for the treatment of male-hormonal or hormone-dependent hair loss. However, disclosed are extracts of rambutan pericarp that do not act by strengthening hair follicles or by promoting anchoring of the hair to the scalp.
Application CN105534812 discloses compositions with anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing and emollient properties comprising a mixture of extracts of several plants, including rambutan. However, no plant part of rambutan is disclosed.
Application JP2013245172 discloses the use of a combination of rambutan extract and acteoside (Verbascum Thapsus l.) extract for promoting hair growth in an individual. The rambutan extract may be a pericarp, fruit or seed extract, preferably a fruit extract. However, in this case, it involves stimulating the growth of individual hair. The present invention differs therefrom in that it targets enhanced hair follicles by increasing the expression of certain local targets and by promoting the anchoring of individual hairs to the scalp, thus enabling promotion of reduced hair loss. The present invention is not directed to stimulating hair growth.
Finally, applications US20170151164, US20170151165 and US20170151166 disclose cosmetic compositions comprising rambutan oil for treating keratin fibres, in particular individual hair. However, these applications do not describe their use for enhancing hair follicles, nor their use for reducing hair loss in individuals.
Thus, based on the inventors' knowledge, no prior art discloses or suggests the use of rambutan seed extract for enhancing hair follicles and thus reducing hair loss.
The extract of the application is rambutan extract. The plant is from Vietnam. The inventors have in fact surprisingly found that the extract is effective in enhancing hair follicles by increasing fibroblast proliferation, cell viability, ATP synthesis and mitochondrial activity of the hair follicle and by reducing cell damage and cell senescence and by increasing expression of some local target in the hair follicle.
One of the advantages of the extract of the present invention is that it can increase the expression of multiple local targets simultaneously. Which constitutes the complete active ingredient for hair and scalp care. Another advantage is that it is a natural active substance resulting from sustainable development operations that meet the acquisition rules. For example, it is a chemically stable extract, does not exhibit sensitization properties, and can be easily produced on an industrial scale.
Thus, a first object of the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a seed extract of a rambutan plant for enhancing hair follicles.
The term "cosmetic use" is intended herein to mean a non-pharmaceutical use, and therefore it is not intended for therapeutic purposes, the extract of the invention being intended to be applied to all or part of a healthy skin area, in particular the non-pathological scalp. The term "healthy skin area" is intended to mean an area of skin to which the extract of the invention is applied and which is described by the dermatologist as "non-pathological", i.e. which does not show any infection, scar, skin disease or discomfort such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis or wounds or lesions and/or other skin disorders. For the purposes of the present invention, skin includes any part of the body and/or face, advantageously those that include skin appendages, including the scalp, and preferably the scalp.
Cosmetic use of the extract of the invention may be by oral or topical application, preferably topical application. Thus, in one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the extract of the invention comprises the topical application of the extract or of a cosmetic composition comprising the same to all or part of the body and/or face, selected from the group consisting of legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, abdomen, neck line, neck, arms, trunk, back, face, preferably comprising skin appendages, preferably hair, and/or scalp, advantageously scalp.
The term "skin appendages" is intended herein to mean body hair, eyelashes, and hair. Advantageously, it is hair.
The extract of the present invention is a topically acceptable extract, the term "topically acceptable" being understood to mean an extract which is non-irritating to the skin, non-toxic and does not cause allergies. The term "topical application" is intended to mean the direct application of the extract or a cosmetic composition comprising it or the spraying thereof onto the surface of the skin, preferably the scalp and/or hair.
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "enhancing hair follicles" is intended to mean maintaining and/or increasing the anchorage of the individual's hair to the scalp, by maintaining and/or increasing the proliferation of fibroblasts of both the hair follicle and the skin, and thus the scalp, and/or by increasing the expression of local targets at the level of the scalp, on the one hand, and/or by increasing the viability of cells and/or ATP synthesis and/or mitochondrial activity and/or by reducing cell damage and/or cell senescence, on the other hand. Thus, in a first aspect of the invention, the extract of the invention enhances hair follicles by increasing the expression of local targets at the level of the scalp, in particular of collagen V and/or myofibril-1 (advantageously at the level of the scalp).
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "maintaining and/or increasing the expression of collagen type V" is intended to mean that the gene and/or protein expression of collagen V is increased by at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, in the presence of the extract of the present invention, compared to the expression detected in the absence of the extract. Advantageously, it involves an increase in the expression of collagen type V, more advantageously measured on healthy, i.e. non-pathological, skin fibroblasts. Advantageously, the increase is detected in the presence of the rambutan seed extract prepared according to example 1 a), more advantageously the measurement is carried out by immunohistochemical techniques under the conditions described in example 2.
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "increasing the expression of myofibril-1" is intended to mean that the expression of the gene and/or protein of myofibril-1 is increased by at least 50%, preferably by at least 100%, in the presence of the extract according to the invention, compared to the expression detected in the absence of the extract. In an advantageous embodiment, it is an increase in myofibril-1 protein, advantageously measured at the level of healthy skin fibroblasts, more advantageously detected in the presence of seed extract prepared according to example 1 a). Preferably, the measurement of protein expression is performed by immunohistochemistry (BCA method) in the presence of anti-fibrillin-1 antibody under the conditions described in example 3.
In a second aspect of the invention, the extract enhances hair follicles by increasing ATP synthesis, advantageously ATP synthesis in the hair follicle. Thus, the expression "increase ATP synthesis" is intended to mean an increase of at least 15%, preferably at least 25%, more preferably at least 40% in the presence of an extract of the invention, advantageously a seed extract, in non-pathological fibroblasts of the papilla of hair follicles. In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the increase is measured under the conditions described in example 4 in the presence of seed extracts according to example 1 a), more advantageously by enzymatic methods.
In a third aspect, the extracts of the invention enhance hair follicles by increasing mitochondrial activity and/or fibroblast proliferation and/or cell viability of the hair follicle and/or by reducing cell damage and/or cell senescence.
The expression "increasing mitochondrial activity" is intended to mean that said activity is increased by at least 15%, preferably by at least 30%, more preferably by at least 40% in the presence of the seed extract of the invention, advantageously measured in normal (i.e. non-pathological) fibroblasts of the hair papilla, more advantageously measured in the presence of the seed extract prepared according to example 1 a). Preferably, the activity is measured by optical density after MTT (3- [4, 5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl ] -2, 5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide) reduction in the presence of succinate dehydrogenase under the conditions described in example 5.
The expression "increasing the proliferation of hair follicle fibroblasts" is intended to mean an increase in the number of cells in the fibroblasts, i.e. an increase in the number of cells of at least 60%, more advantageously of at least 90%, compared to the number of cells detected in the absence of the extract in the presence of the seed extract of the invention.
In one embodiment of the invention, the cell increase is measured in fibroblasts of the new nipple mould of the skin, advantageously by flow cytometry. More advantageously, the cell increase is measured under the conditions described in example 6 in the presence of the seed extract prepared according to example 1 a).
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "reducing cell senescence" is intended to mean that the decrease in autofluorescence of the fibroblasts is at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, compared to the autofluorescence measured in said fibroblasts in the absence of extract in the presence of the seed extract of the invention. Advantageously, the autofluorescence is measured in fibroblasts of the hair follicle papilla, more advantageously in fibroblasts of a model of the novel papilla type, more preferably in the presence of seed extracts prepared according to example 1 a). Very advantageously, the autofluorescence is measured by flow cytometry under the conditions of example 7.
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "increasing the viability of cells" is intended to mean that the viability of cells is increased by at least 5%, advantageously by at least 10%, more advantageously by at least 20% of the viability of cells of the microfollicles (microfollicles) in the presence of the seed extract of the present invention, compared to the level detected in the absence of the extract. Preferably, the increase is measured by colorimetry in the presence of the seed extract prepared according to example 1 a) under the conditions described in example 8 a).
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "reducing cell damage" is intended to mean a reduction of cell lysis in the microfollicles, advantageously in the hair follicle, by at least 5%, preferably by at least 10%, more preferably by at least 40%, in the presence of the seed extract according to the invention. In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, it is a reduction of film damage measured in the presence of seed extracts prepared according to example 1 a). More advantageously, the alleviation is measured colorimetrically in the presence of lactate dehydrogenase under the conditions described in example 8 b).
In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the extract of the invention enhances hair follicles by increasing hair follicle fibroblast proliferation and/or cell viability and/or mitochondrial activity and/or by reducing cell damage and/or cell senescence.
Thus, according to the invention, the extract enables to reduce skin appendages losses, preferably hair loss. The expression "reducing hair loss" is intended to mean a reduction of the hair density by at least 1%, preferably at least 2%, more preferably at least 5% in the telogen phase, i.e. in the alopecia phase. After application of the extract, for example 2, 4, 5 or 6 months, preferably 6 months, the telogen and anagen hair densities can be determined by the hair imaging technique (phototrichogram technique) in the presence of the extract of the invention, by in vivo assays, compared to placebo.
The extract of the invention is a seed extract of a rambutan plant.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "seed extract" is intended to mean any extract of all or part of a rambutan plant comprising seeds, advantageously only seeds. Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the seed extract does not include pericarp nor pulp. Thus, the seed extract is not a fruit extract. The term "pericarp" is intended herein to mean the outer shell of the fruit.
The extract may be obtained by various extraction methods known to those skilled in the art, selected from maceration, hot decoction, grinding, including ultrasonic grinding, using a stirrer, or the extract may be obtained by extraction in water under subcritical or supercritical conditions (carbon dioxide). Preferably, the extraction is performed by impregnation.
The extraction may be carried out with dry or fresh material, advantageously dry material, in an amount of 0.1% to 20% by weight, advantageously 1% to 20%, very advantageously 5% to 15%, more advantageously 10% to 15%, even more advantageously 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of material and extraction solvent.
The extraction may be performed at a temperature in the range of 4 ℃ to 300 ℃. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out at a temperature of from 4 ℃ to 25 ℃, more preferably from 4 ℃ to 20 ℃, more advantageously at ambient temperature, i.e. 20 ℃.
In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out at a temperature of 60 ℃ to 90 ℃, preferably 70 ℃ to 85 ℃, more preferably at a temperature of 80 ℃. In another alternative embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out in water, under subcritical conditions, at a temperature in the range of from 100 ℃ to 300 ℃, advantageously from 120 ℃ to 250 ℃, more advantageously at 120 ℃. The extraction may be performed at a single given temperature or at successively increasing temperatures. In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out at a single temperature of 120 ℃. In an alternative embodiment, it will be performed according to a gradient of three increasing temperatures between 100 ℃ and 200 ℃, for example 120 ℃, 140 ℃, then 160 ℃, or 110 ℃, 130 ℃, then 150 ℃, or 120 ℃, 145 ℃, then 170 ℃.
The term "extraction under subcritical conditions" is intended to mean an extraction carried out in the presence of water at a temperature higher than 100 ℃ and a pressure lower than 221 bar, so that the water remains liquid, but has a viscosity and surface tension lower than that of water at ambient temperature, raising its dielectric constant. The extraction pressure will therefore be between 150 and 250 bar, preferably between 200 and 221 bar, advantageously in a pressurized extraction autoclave.
The extraction may be carried out for a period of from 30 minutes to 24 hours, preferably from 30 minutes to 12 hours, more preferably from 1 hour to 5 hours, more advantageously from 1 hour to 2 hours. Very advantageously, the extraction will be carried out for a period of 2 hours.
The extracts of the invention may be obtained by extraction in a solvent or solvent mixture, preferably a protic polar solvent and advantageously in water, alcohol, glycol, polyol or a water/alcohol, water/glycol or water/polyol mixture of 99/1 to 1/99 (w/w), for example water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and/or butanediol and/or other glycols such as xylitol and/or propylene glycol, etc., advantageously in water as a single solvent.
In particular, the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "extract obtained by aqueous extraction" is intended to mean any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight, more in particular at least 90% by weight, in particular at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, even more advantageously the aqueous solution being free of glycols and in particular free of alcohols, more in particular containing only water.
In an alternative embodiment, the extract is obtained by extraction in a mixture of propylene glycol or ethanol and water in respective proportions (80:20; v/v).
In another alternative embodiment of the invention, the extraction may be carried out in the presence of a nonionic surfactant, preferably selected from BASF under the name1200UP sold lauryl glucoside or also octanoyl/octanoyl glucoside [ ]810 UP), preferably octanoyl/octanoyl glucoside810 UP). The weight concentration of the nonionic surfactant may be from 0.5% to 5%, advantageously from 0.5% to 1%, more advantageously 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.
Thus, in a first embodiment of the invention, the extract is obtained by macerating 10% by weight of the ground seeds, relative to the weight of solvent and material, at a temperature of 20 ℃ for 2 hours. The crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and then filtered under the conditions described in example 1 a).
In a second embodiment of the invention, the extract is obtained by immersing 5% by weight of the ground seeds, relative to the total weight of solvent and material, in water as solvent at a temperature of 20 ℃ for 24 hours. The crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and then filtered under the conditions described in example 1 b).
In a third embodiment of the invention, the extract is obtained by immersing an amount of 20% of the ground seeds in water as solvent at a temperature of 20 ℃ for 2 hours. The extract was then centrifuged, decanted, filtered and then spray dried in the presence of maltodextrin under the conditions described in example 1 c), the final amount of maltodextrin being 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract.
In a fourth embodiment, the extract is obtained by macerating 10% by weight of the ground seeds, relative to the total weight of material and solvent, in an ethanol-water mixture (80:20; v/v) at a temperature of 80℃for 1 hour. The extract was then centrifuged, decanted, filtered and then spray dried in the presence of maltodextrin under the conditions described in example 1 d), the final amount of maltodextrin being 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract.
In a fifth embodiment, the extract will be obtained by immersing 10% by weight of the dried red lead peel, relative to the total weight of the peel and water as the sole solvent, at a temperature of 20 ℃ for 1 hour. The resulting extract was decanted and centrifuged and the supernatant was filtered. Under the conditions described in example 1 e), the extract is in powder form.
In a sixth embodiment, the extraction is performed by immersing the red lead pulp in water as the sole solvent at a temperature of 80 ℃ for 1 hour using 10% by weight of red lead pulp relative to the total weight of pulp and water. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered under the conditions described in example 1 f).
In a seventh embodiment, the extraction is performed with dried seeds of rambutan in an amount of 10% by weight under supercritical conditions in a pressurized extraction autoclave in the presence of ethanol (10%) as co-solvent. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered under the conditions described in example 1 g).
In an eighth embodiment, the extraction is performed with 10% by weight of rambutan dried leaves relative to the total weight of leaves and water at a temperature of 80 ℃ for 1 hour. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered under the conditions described in example 1 h).
In a ninth embodiment, the extraction is performed with 10% by weight of rambutan pericarp relative to the total weight of pericarp and solvent in an ethanol-water mixture (80:20; v/v) at reflux for 1 hour. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered under the conditions described in example 1 i).
Advantageously, according to the invention, the extract will be filtered with a cut-off threshold of 0.45 μm. The extract may be subjected to additional decolorization and/or deodorization steps at any stage of extraction and according to techniques known to those skilled in the art. Specifically, the extract may be decolorized with activated carbon.
The extracts obtained under the conditions described in examples 1 a) to 1 g) can be concentrated by evaporation of the solvent or drying, for example by freeze-drying or spray-drying in the presence of maltodextrin. Advantageously, in this case, spray drying will be carried out in the presence of maltodextrin. The extract will be in powder form.
Thus, in a particular embodiment of the invention, the extract obtained according to examples 1 a), 1 b) and 1 d) to 1 g) will be spray dried in the presence of maltodextrin in a concentration by weight of 20% to 90%, preferably 40% to 80%, more preferably 70% to 80% relative to the total weight of the resulting powder.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the obtained rambutan extract is sterilized, in particular for its use in dermatology.
Very preferably, the seed extracts obtained in water as single solvent, in particular those described in examples 1 a) to 1 c), contain negligible amounts of fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid. The expression "negligible amount of fatty acids" is intended to mean an inactive fatty acid content, i.e. it does not strengthen the hair follicle nor reduce the loss of skin appendages, in particular hair loss. The content of fatty acids obtained in the seed extract obtained in water as single solvent, in particular as described in examples 1 a) to 1 c), is considered negligible when said content is less than 80% (w/w), advantageously less than 50% (w/w), more advantageously less than 20% (w/w) by weight relative to the total weight of the seed extract. Very advantageously, the extracts, in particular those as described in examples 1 a) to 1 c), contain a fatty acid content of less than 2% by weight of fatty acids relative to the total weight of the seed extract, particularly advantageously only traces of fatty acids.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the seed extract, in particular those as described in examples 1 a) to 1 c), contains a negligible amount of linoleic acid, which is defined as equivalent to a linoleic acid content which does not enhance hair follicles nor reduce skin accessory losses, in particular hair loss.
The content of linoleic acid (C 18H32O2; molecular weight 280.452 g/mol) contained in seed extracts obtained in water as single solvent, in particular those described in examples 1 a) to 1C), is considered negligible when it is less than 10% (w/w), advantageously less than 6% (w/w), more advantageously less than 3% (w/w) by weight of linoleic acid relative to the total weight of the seed extract. Very advantageously, the extracts, in particular those as described in examples 1 a) to 1 c), contain a linoleic acid content of less than 2% by weight of fatty acids relative to the total weight of the seed extract, particularly advantageously only trace amounts of linoleic acid.
The extract of the present invention may be used alone or included in a cosmetic composition in the form of a cosmetically active ingredient.
When used alone in the form of a cosmetic composition, it is preferably dissolved in an aqueous solution containing glycerol, advantageously present in a concentration of 60% to 90%, more advantageously 70% to 85%, very advantageously in a concentration of 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract.
In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the extract will be dissolved and/or diluted in a solvent, in particular a polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol such as pentanediol and/or butanediol and/or hexanediol and/or octanoyl glycol (caprylyl glycol) or a mixture thereof, preferably a water-glycolic acid mixture, more preferably a glycol selected from hexanediol, octanoyl glycol and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the extract obtained is diluted and/or dissolved in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol, in particular containing from 0.1% to 10% by weight of hexylene glycol, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of hexylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredients. Advantageously, the extract obtained is diluted and/or dissolved in an aqueous solution containing octanoyl glycol, in particular containing 0.01% to 5% by weight of octanoyl glycol, preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight of octanoyl glycol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract. In particular, the aqueous solution in which the rambutan extract of the invention is dissolved comprises xanthan gum, in particular from 0.01% to 5% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more in particular from 0.1% to 1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract. Advantageously, the solution in which the rambutan extract of the invention is dissolved comprises hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and xanthan gum.
Thus, according to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the use of an extract for enhancing hair follicles by maintaining and/or increasing hair follicle fibroblast proliferation and/or cell viability and/or ATP synthesis and/or mitochondrial activity and/or reducing cell damage and/or cell senescence is a seed extract.
Thus, another subject of the present invention relates to the use of the extract according to the invention in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. The term "acceptable" is intended to mean that the vehicle is cosmetically or non-skin irritating, does not cause allergic reactions, and is chemically stable.
The use of the cosmetic composition is therefore for enhancing hair follicles by maintaining and/or increasing collagen V and/or myofibril-1 expression and/or fibroblast proliferation and/or cell viability and/or ATP synthesis and/or mitochondrial activity of the hair follicle and/or by reducing cell damage and/or cell senescence, advantageously by maintaining and/or increasing fibroblast proliferation and/or cell viability and/or mitochondrial activity of the hair follicle and/or by reducing cell damage and/or cell senescence.
Cosmetic compositions comprising the seed extract of the present invention can be used as cosmetic compositions for hair care, advantageously for reducing skin accessory losses, preferably hair loss. In one embodiment of the invention the cosmetic composition will be applied topically or orally, advantageously it will be applied topically to all or part of a body selected from the group consisting of legs, feet, axilla, hands, thighs, abdomen, neck line, neck, arms, trunk, back, face, including skin appendages, preferably hair, and/or scalp, more advantageously scalp.
In one embodiment of the invention, the extract of the invention is present in the cosmetic or dermatological composition in a concentration ranging from 1 x 10 -4% to 10%, preferably from 1 x 10 -4% to 5%, more preferably from 1 x 10 -3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The excipient may be selected from surfactants and/or emulsifiers, preservatives, buffers, chelating agents, denaturants, opacifiers, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizers, thickeners, gelling agents, film forming polymers, fillers, oil absorbers (MATIFYING AGENTS), gloss appearance agents (shiny-APPEARANCE AGENTS), pigments, dyes, fragrances, and mixtures thereof. CTFA (Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, second edition (1992)) describe various cosmetically acceptable excipients suitable for use in the present invention.
Advantageously, the excipient is selected from polyglycerol, esters, cellulosic polymers and derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrin, lactoperoxidase, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gum, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaines, amine oxides (aminoxides), plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxide, glycine and nipagin esters, more preferably selected from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherol, glycerin, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, ethylene glycol stearate, triisononin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dimerhydroxystearate, capric/caprylic triglyceride, cetyl octyl ester, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, mineral waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl ester, propylene glycol di-stearate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax, hydrogenated palm kernel glyceride, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl alcohol, castor oil, lactose, sucrose, low density, sucrose, and the like.
The cosmetic composition may be selected from aqueous or oily solutions, creams or aqueous or oily gels, in particular shower gels, milks (milk), emulsions, microemulsions or nanoemulsions and in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or complex or silicone-based), masks, essences, emulsions (emulsions), liquid soaps, dermatological sticks (dermatological bar), ointments, foams, patches, anhydrous products and it is preferably a liquid, paste or solid, shampoo. Advantageously, it is an emulsion. Or it may be a shampoo.
Furthermore, the cosmetic composition may comprise other cosmetic substances having the same properties as the extract of the present invention and which may or may not cause a synergistic effect with the extract of the present invention or cosmetic substances having a complementary effect.
As the active agent exerting an effect against alopecia, a combination of a sulfopeptide (sulfopeptides), an amino acid, an amino sugar, a B-group vitamin, zinc and ginseng (Panax gineng) and Artium majus extracts sold by the present inventors under the name Trichogen TM LS 8960 or a hair protecting agent such as litchi (LITCHI CHINENSIS) pericarp extract sold by the present inventors under the name LITCHIDERM TM, a soothing and antipruritic active agent such as rapeseed phytosterol sold by the present inventors under the name Phytosoothe TM LS9766 will be mentioned.
Other types of agents may be present in the composition, such as the leaf extract of Cassia ptera (CASSIA ALATA) sold under the name DN-Age TM, particularly as an antioxidant agent for hair care, the combination of the extract of Salvia Miltiorrhiza (Salvia miltiorhizza) sold under the name CollRepair TM as a desugaring agent (DEGLYCATING AGENT) with nicotinamide, or an agent promoting skin firmness such as synthetic tetrapeptides sold under the name Dermican TM, An extract of Abelmoschus manihot (Hibiscus abelmoschus) sold under the name Linefactor TM, a purified pea extract sold under the name Proteasyl TM, a MANILKARA MULTINERVIS extract sold under the name Elestan TM, African chinaberry (KHAYA SENEGALENSIS) extract sold under the name Collalift TM, argan's pulp extract sold by the inventor under the name ARGASSENTIAL TM, schisandra chinensis (Schizandra chinensis) extract sold under the name SQISANDRYL TM, Fusarium venenatum (Eperua falcata) extract sold under the name Eperuline TM, orthosiphon staminus extract sold under the name MAT- -XS TM Bright, are sold by the inventors. these combinations of active agents can enhance hair follicles and reduce hair loss.
Another subject matter also relates to a cosmetic method of care comprising the topical or oral application of the seed extract of the invention or a cosmetic composition comprising the same for maintaining and/or increasing collagen V and/or myofibril-1 expression and/or for increasing follicular fibroblast proliferation and/or for increasing cell viability and/or ATP synthesis and/or mitochondrial activity and/or for reducing cell damage and/or for reducing cell aging, for enhancing hair follicles and thus reducing skin appendages loss, preferably hair loss. Preferably, the administration is topical.
Very advantageously, the cosmetic care method will comprise the topical application of seed extracts for maintaining and/or increasing the proliferation of hair follicle fibroblasts and/or for increasing the viability of cells and/or ATP synthesis and/or mitochondrial activity and/or for reducing cell damage and/or for reducing cell aging, for enhancing hair follicles, in order to reduce hair loss.
In one embodiment of the invention the cosmetic care method comprises topically applying the extract of the invention or a composition comprising the same to all or part of a body selected from the group consisting of legs, feet, axilla, hands, thighs, abdomen, neck line, neck, arms, trunk, back, face, including skin appendages, preferably hair, and/or scalp, more advantageously scalp.
Examples reference is made to the description of the invention and the following are provided. These examples are given by way of illustration and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Each embodiment has a general scope. The embodiments are part of the present invention, and any features that are novel based on the whole description, including the embodiments, relative to any prior art display are part of the present invention. Finally, in the examples, temperature is expressed in degrees celsius, percent is weight/volume, and pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.
EXAMPLE 1 preparation method of rambutan extract of the present invention
Example 1 a) by immersing in water as solvent at a temperature of 20 ℃ for 2 hours, a ground rambutan seed in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of solvent and seed was obtained. The crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and then filtered.
Example 1 b) ground rambutan seed in an amount of 5% by weight relative to the total weight of solvent and seed was obtained by immersing in water as solvent at a temperature of 20 ℃ for 24 hours. The crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and then filtered.
Example 1C) ground rambutan seed in an amount of 20% by weight relative to the total weight of solvent and seed was obtained by immersing in water as solvent at a temperature of 20 ℃ for 2 hours. The crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and then filtered. The extract was spray dried in the presence of maltodextrin in a final amount of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract.
Example 1 d) ground rambutan seed in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of solvent and seed was obtained by immersing in an ethanol-water mixture (80:10; v/v) as solvent at a temperature of 80℃for 1 hour. The crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and then filtered. The extract was spray dried in the presence of maltodextrin in a final amount of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract.
Example 1 e) dried peel of rambutan was extracted in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of peel and water by soaking at 20C for 1 hour. The resulting extract was decanted, centrifuged, and the supernatant was filtered. The extract is in the form of powder.
Example 1 f) extraction was performed by immersing 10% by weight of rambutan pulp, relative to the total weight of pulp and water, in water as the sole solvent for 1 hour at a temperature of 80 ℃. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.
Example 1 g) the extraction was performed with a dry seed of rambutan in an amount of 10% by weight, under supercritical conditions (CO 2), in a pressurized extraction autoclave, in the presence of a cosolvent (ethanol) (10%). The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.
Example 1 h) extraction was performed by dipping at a temperature of 20 ℃ for 1 hour, 10% by weight of dry leaves of rambutan relative to the total weight of the leaves and water as the sole solvent. The resulting extract was decanted, centrifuged, and the supernatant was filtered. The extract is in the form of powder.
Example 1 i) by immersion at reflux for 1 hour, 10% by weight of the rambutan pericarp, relative to the total weight of pericarp and solvent, was extracted in an ethanol-water mixture (80:20; v/v). The resulting extract was decanted, centrifuged, and the supernatant was filtered. The extract is in the form of powder.
Example 2 increase in expression of type V collagen in the Presence of seed extract
Protocol human fibroblasts, termed "normal" (i.e., not showing any pathology) from a 34 year old healthy donor, were cultured in defined medium (FGM) in the presence of various rambutan extracts at different final concentrations for 48 hours, and then the cell culture medium was removed. The same medium without the addition of the extract of the invention was used as a control (control). The resulting cell layer was lysed with ammonium hydroxide solution and then type V collagen was assayed with anti-collagen V antibodies diluted to 1/4000 in buffer (PBS). After 60 minutes, secondary antibodies diluted to 1/25 000 were applied for 60 minutes. After washing, a display solution was added and fluorescence was measured (ENVision, perkinElmer). The fluorescence results were normalized to the fluorescence obtained with the same cell culture medium in the absence of rambutan extract (control) to correlate with the amount of DNA obtained under each condition. The results shown are the average of 3 determinations (n=3) (SD: standard deviation).
Results:
TABLE 1
| |
Average value of |
SD |
| Control |
100 |
5 |
| 1% (W/v medium) of the rambutan seed extract prepared according to example 1 a) |
134 |
25 |
| 1% (W/v medium) of rambutan pericarp extract prepared according to example 1 e) |
70 |
18 |
Conclusion in the fibroblasts analyzed, rambutan seed extract increased collagen V expression by at least 23%, showing the properties of seed extract in enhancing hair follicle and reducing hair loss.
Example 3 demonstration of increased myofibril-1 Synthesis in the Presence of the extract of the invention
Protocol normal (i.e., non-pathological) human fibroblasts were cultured in FGM medium for 48 hours and then treated with the aqueous rambutan seed extract of example 1 a) at a final weight concentration of 1% relative to the final volume of medium. Cells were harvested and then lysed with lysis buffer for immunoblotting (Western Blots). Protein concentration was determined by BCA method. All samples were normalized to total protein (n=3). An anti-myofibril-1 primary antibody (LS-BIO) was used because it was a peroxidase-conjugated secondary antibody. Chemiluminescent substrates allow the signal to be interpreted and quantified (ProteinSimple).
Results:
TABLE 2
| |
Average value of |
SD |
| Control |
100.0 |
10.0 |
| Rambutan seed extract 1% (w/v medium), example 1a |
272 |
95.0 |
| 1% (W/v medium) of rambutan pericarp extract prepared according to example 1 e) |
55.20 |
12.4 |
| 1% (W/v medium) of rambutan pericarp extract prepared according to example 1 i) |
83.71 |
20.2 |
Conclusion rambutan seed extract shows increased myofibril-1 synthesis in fibroblasts compared to control and compared to pericarp extract tested at the same final concentration in the medium.
Example 4 demonstration of increased ATP synthesis in hair follicle papilla fibroblasts in the Presence of the extract of the invention
The protocol is that non-pathological human fibroblasts from the papilla of hair follicle are cultured for 24 hours on DMEM medium, then treated with the aqueous rambutan seed extract of the invention for 6 days, at a final concentration/volume of 0.03% and 0.01% by volume relative to the total volume of the medium. ATP content was measured after 6 days by enzymatic method (luciferin/luciferase complex; ATP Bioluminescence kit Roche Diagnostics).
TABLE 3 Table 3
| |
Average value of |
SD |
| Control |
100 |
7 |
| Rambutan seed extract, example 1 a) 0.03%% (v/v) |
138 |
6 |
| Rambutan seed extract, example 1 a) 0.1%% (v/v) |
139 |
3 |
Conclusion the seed extract showed an increase in ATP synthesis compared to the control, making it an active extract for enhancing hair follicles.
EXAMPLE 5 demonstration of the increase in mitochondrial Metabolic Activity of the hair papilla fibroblasts by the extracts of the invention
The protocol is that non-pathological human fibroblasts of the papilla of hair follicle are cultured for 24 hours, then treated with aqueous rambutan seed extract for 6 days at a final concentration of 0.1% and 0.3% by volume relative to the total volume of the culture medium. Mitochondrial activity of fibroblasts was measured by reduction of MTT (3- [4, 5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl ] -2, 5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide) in the presence of succinate dehydrogenase. The resulting precipitate was extracted with DMSO, and the optical density of the DMSO solution was then measured at 540 nm.
Results:
TABLE 4 Table 4
| |
Average value of |
SD |
| Control |
100 |
2 |
| Aqueous rambutan seed extract, example 1 a) 0.1% (v/v) |
121 |
4 |
| Aqueous rambutan seed extract, example 1 a) 0.3% (v/v) |
145 |
4 |
Conclusion aqueous rambutan seed extract shows at least 15% up to 47% increase in mitochondrial activity of hair follicle papilla fibroblasts compared to control. This mitochondrial activity is involved in the enhancement of hair follicles, enabling the reduction of hair loss.
Example 6 increase of fibroblast proliferation in novel nipple-type cell model
Protocol non-pathological human fibroblasts from the novel nipple mould of the skin were cultured on DMEM medium containing the extract of the invention in a final concentration of 0.3% or 1% by volume with respect to the total volume of the medium, and then centrifuged at 200g for 5 minutes. The aggregates were incubated at 37℃for 5 days (5% CO 2) and then washed in PBS buffer. Cells were lysed in protease mixtures containing EDTA at 37 ℃ for 1 hour. Cell increase was measured by flow cytometry.
Results:
TABLE 5
| |
Average value of |
SD |
| Control |
100 |
22 |
| Aqueous rambutan seed extract, example 1 a) 0.3% (v/v) |
163 |
10 |
Conclusion the extract of the present invention shows that it is capable of increasing the proliferation of dermal papilla fibroblasts in the novel papilla model by at least 25%, confirming its positive effect in enhancing hair follicles and its property of reducing hair loss.
Example 7 reduction of auto-fluorescence parameters in novel nipple-type cell models
Scheme normal non-pathological human fibroblasts were suspended in DMEM medium containing seed extract of the present invention prepared according to example 1 a) at a final concentration of 1% relative to the total volume of the medium. After centrifugation, the aggregates were incubated at 37 ℃ (5% co 2) for 5 days. The aggregates were washed in PBS buffer and then the cells were lysed in a mixture of protease and EDTA. Autofluorescence of the cells was determined using a C6 flow cytometer (Becton-Dickinson UK) (585 nm +/-20 nm). Results are expressed as% relative to control.
Results:
TABLE 6
| |
Average value of |
SD |
| Control |
100 |
8 |
| Aqueous rambutan seed extract, example 1 a) 1% (v/v) |
74 |
2 |
Conclusion the seed extract demonstrates that it can reduce the autofluorescence of fibroblasts by at least 20% and thus can reduce the senescence of fibroblasts in the papilla of hair follicles.
Example 8 demonstration of the action of the extract of the invention on the microfollicles
Micro hair follicle reconstruction method:
The micro-hair follicle model involves co-culturing nipple fibroblasts, keratinocytes from the hair follicle's outer sheath, and melanocytes in three dimensions. The cell model constitutes the model of the reconstructed organ closest to the hair follicle, as it is capable of integrating the neuro-epidermal-mesenchymal interactions between the various cell types.
The microfollicles were cultured.
Non-pathological papilla fibroblasts were cultured for 3 days. Melanocytes and keratinocytes of the hair follicle sheath are then added to the novel papilla to form the microfollicles. After 24 hours of incubation, the aqueous rambutan seed extract was added at a final concentration of 0.02% by volume relative to the total volume of the medium. The same medium was incubated in the absence of the extract of the invention (control). After 48 hours of treatment, the culture medium and microfollicles were sampled for analysis.
Example 8 a) increase in cell viability at the micro-follicle level
Protocol cell viability of the microfollicles was measured by the PrestoBlue method (Thermo FISHER SCIENTIFIC). The colorimetry is based on the reduction and emission of fluorescence of a resazurin-type reagent by living cells. The measurement was performed after 48 hours of treatment. Values are expressed as% of the mean value normalized to untreated control.
Results:
TABLE 7
| |
Average value of |
SD |
| Control |
100 |
6.7 |
| Aqueous rambutan seed extract, example 1 a) 0.02% (v/v) |
118.0 |
6.5 |
Conclusion the seed extract of the present invention has the ability to increase the cell viability of the microfollicles making it an extract active for enhancing hair follicles.
Example 8 b) alleviation of Membrane damage at the micro-follicle level
The cell damage was measured colorimetrically in the presence of lactate dehydrogenase, enabling quantification of the cytotoxicity of the extract based on measurement of lactate dehydrogenase activity in damaged cells in the medium. The increase in cell membrane damage and cell lysis results in an increase in lactate dehydrogenase activity, which is proportional to the number of lysed cells. The activity is in the nailIs confirmed in the presence of the nailThe amount of (2) was evaluated by measuring the optical density (500 nm). After 48 hours of treatment, measurements were made in medium.
Results:
TABLE 8
| |
Average value of |
SD |
| Control |
100 |
15.9 |
| Aqueous rambutan seed extract, example 1 a) 0.02% (v/v) |
58.0 |
16.3 |
Conclusion the seed extract of the present invention has the ability to alleviate membrane damage, making it an extract active for enhancing hair follicles, which promotes the reduction of hair loss.
Example 9 examples of cosmetic ingredients comprising rambutan extract
The rambutan extracts of examples 1 a) to 1 c) are 20% relative to the total weight
Maltodextrin 80% relative to total weight
Example 10 examples of cosmetic compositions comprising the extract of the present invention