CN109982749B - 个人护理组合物 - Google Patents
个人护理组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN109982749B CN109982749B CN201780072444.8A CN201780072444A CN109982749B CN 109982749 B CN109982749 B CN 109982749B CN 201780072444 A CN201780072444 A CN 201780072444A CN 109982749 B CN109982749 B CN 109982749B
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- skin
- boron nitride
- polyolefin particles
- silicone
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 114
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 59
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- 229910052582 BN Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 50
- 229920000098 polyolefin Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 26
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- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 3
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- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000004433 nitrogen atom Chemical group N* 0.000 claims description 2
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种个人护理组合物,其包含在化妆品上可接受的载体中的与非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒组合的氮化硼,以提供增强皮肤外观的益处。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及个人护理组合物。特别地,所述个人护理组合物涉及提供增强的皮肤外观,如改善的模糊(blurring)和降低的光泽(shine)。这是通过在个人护理组合物中包含与特定的聚烯烃颗粒组合的乱层氮化硼(turbostratic boron nitride)颗粒来实现的。
背景技术
老化带来了皮肤外观的许多变化。对于希望维持年轻外观的个体来说,特别关注的是减少或消除皮肤瑕疵如皱纹、老年斑或肤色的一般不均匀性。另一优选的皮肤属性是降低的光泽。有光亮的皮肤表示油性,这是许多消费者不喜欢的属性。大多数人更喜欢其皮肤的无光泽外观。
化妆品工业已做出了相当大的努力来提供可掩盖或至少减少皮肤瑕疵的组合物。这经常是通过使用诸如滑石、二氧化硅、高岭土和其它无机微粒的材料来实现的。这些无机微粒由于它们的光学性质而实现无光泽效果。
替代方案被称为实现模糊效果。这里,入射光线被散射(透镜化)扭曲。该机理中的化妆品组合物的组分像透镜般起作用,使光线在各种方向上弯曲和扭转。
遗憾的是,传统方案或在不存在光亮(radiance)的情况下隐藏瑕疵,或导致光亮和健康的光泽,但是却产生在美学上令人不悦的皮肤外观,例如,通过增强皮肤形貌的可见性。
本发明人已认识到仍然需要提供能够赋予皮肤更好的模糊效果、同时确保降低的光泽外观的组合物。因此,在大量实验后,他们开发了具有更高的模糊功效的个人护理组合物,该组合物包含在化妆品上可接受的载体中的与特定大小的非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒组合的乱层氮化硼颗粒。
US2016067157(Avon)公开了在使皮肤平滑的同时立即减少皱纹和皮肤瑕疵的外观的方法,其包括施加包含基于分形(fractal)颗粒的凝胶的化妆品组合物。
US2002192252(Procter&Gamble)涉及具有限定的平均粒径、颗粒间距和覆盖值的皮肤护理产品的基本均匀的不连续膜。所述膜提供改善的皮肤外观,例如良好的表观覆盖和自然的外表。本发明人已尝试该出版物中公开的氮化硼和乙烯丙烯酸酯共聚物的组合,并确定本发明的模糊功效显著优于使用该组合可获得的模糊功效。
因此,本发明的目的是提供一种个人护理组合物,其通过增强的模糊来提供改善的皮肤外观。
发明内容
在第一方面,本发明提供一种个人护理组合物,其包含:
a)乱层氮化硼颗粒;
b)具有0.5-5微米范围内的平均粒径的非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒;和
c)化妆品上可接受的载体。
在第二方面,本发明通过提供改善的模糊和降低的光泽来提供改善皮肤外观的方法,其包括将本发明的组合物施加于所期望的皮肤表面上的步骤。
在第三方面,本发明提供了本发明的组合物用于在期望的皮肤表面上减轻细纹、皱纹、毛孔和/或瑕点的外观;使肤色均匀或其组合的用途。
发明的详细描述
通过阅读以下详细描述和所附权利要求,这些和其它方面、特征和优点对于本领域普通技术人员将变得清楚。为避免疑义,本发明的一个方面的任何特征均可用于本发明的任何其它方面。词语“包括”意在意指“包含”,但不一定是“由……组成”或“由……构成”。换句话说,所列的步骤或选项不必是穷尽性的。应当注意,在下面的描述中给出的实例意在阐明本发明,并不意在将本发明限于这些实例本身。类似地,除非另有指明,否则所有百分比均为重量/重量百分比。除了在操作实施例和比较实施例中或者另有明确指示的情况下以外,本说明书和权利要求书中指示材料的量或反应条件、材料的物理性质和/或用途的所有数字均应理解为由词语“约”修饰。以“x-y”的形式表示的数值范围应理解为包含x和y。当针对特定特征以“x-y”的形式描述多个优选范围时,应当理解还涵盖组合不同端点的所有范围。
本文所发现的本发明的公开内容应被认为涵盖在多重从属于彼此的权利要求中所发现的所有实施方案,而不考虑在没有多重从属或冗余的情况下可能发现的权利要求的事实。
如本文所用的“个人护理组合物”意在包括用于局部施加于哺乳动物、尤其是人的皮肤的组合物。此类组合物通常可被分类为免洗型或洗掉型,但优选免洗型。还可将该组合物配制成施加至人体专门用于改善外观,但还能够提供清洁、气味控制或一般美观性的产品。本发明的组合物可呈液体、乳(lotion)、霜(cream)、泡沫、擦洗剂、凝胶或爽肤水(toner)的形式,或者可用器具或通过面罩或垫来施加。此类组合物的非限制性实例包括免洗型护肤乳、霜、止汗剂、除臭剂、唇膏、粉底、睫毛膏、无日照晒黑剂和防晒乳。本发明的组合物优选免洗型组合物。如本文所用的“皮肤”意指脸部和身体(例如颈部、胸部、背部、手臂、手臂下、手、腿、臀部和头皮)上的皮肤,且尤其是其日光曝露部分。
如本文所用的“乱层氮化硼(t-BN)”是指氮化硼晶格中具有氧杂质的氮化硼。
如本文所用的“非硅酮聚烯烃”颗粒是指基本上不含硅酮单体且呈微粒形式的烯烃聚合物。
如本文所用的“比表面积”是指根据Brunauer-Emmett-Teller方法确定的比表面积。比表面积的值通过满足ASTM标准D 3663-78中所述的要求来测量。
除非另有说明,否则如本文所用的“平均粒径”是指非聚集状态下的粒径。除非另有说明,否则根据本发明的平均粒径是颗粒的表观体积中值直径(d50,也称为x50,有时称为d(0.5)),其可例如通过使用满足ISO 13320中所述要求的系统(例如从MalvernInstruments Ltd获得的MastersizerTM2000)进行激光衍射来测量。d10值表示样品中10%的颗粒低于该粒径。d90值表示样品中90%的颗粒低于该粒径。
氮化硼(BN)是化学惰性的非氧化物陶瓷材料,其以几种结晶变体存在,包括类似于金刚石的立方结构BN(c-BN)和类似于石墨的六方结构BN(h-BN)[参考:Journal ofMaterials Science&Technology,第31卷,第6期:589-598;US2012058342]。特别地,h-BN广泛用于个人护理产品中,由于它们的逐层结构和中等的反射率,它们赋予所述产品许多有利的性质,如柔软性、粘附性、覆盖性和自然的外表。此外,根据六方晶体结构水平的均匀性,存在不同类型的h-BN,即石墨BN、乱层BN和准石墨BN:
1)石墨BN(g-BN)是最纯的BN晶体,其中所有六方BN晶体彼此平行对准。
2)乱层BN(t-BN)在BN晶格中具有氧杂质。一些氮(通常<2%)被氧替代。氧的存在使晶体堆叠体(stacking)扭曲,并且BN的平面不像石墨BN的情况那样彼此完全平行。这些乱层BN晶体产生无光泽效果,因为来自它们的镜面反射较少。
3)准石墨BN为介于这两种形态之间的某种形态。
用于本发明中的氮化硼优选乱层氮化硼。
通常,乱层氮化硼具有100纳米至10微米范围内的平均粒径。优选地,非聚集颗粒的粒径(如使用SEM测量)在100纳米至1微米的范围内。所述颗粒通常在储存时聚集,并且当使用像动态光散射(DLS)的技术测量其作为聚集体时,颗粒的平均粒径优选在0.5-15微米的范围内,更优选在3-12微米的范围内,最优选在4-9微米的范围内。
乱层氮化硼的比表面积优选5-80m2/g,更优选10-60m2/g且甚至更优选15-40m2/g。按照尤其优选的方面,乱层氮化硼的比表面积为至少10m2/g,更优选至少20m2/g,进一步更优选至少25m2/g。
乱层氮化硼中的氧含量优选为乱层氮化硼的至少0.2摩尔%,更优选0.5-3摩尔%,甚至更优选1-2摩尔%,且最优选为乱层氮化硼的1.2-1.8摩尔%。
用于本发明中的乱层氮化硼通常具有0.1g/cm3至1g/cm3且更优选0.2g/cm3至0.6g/cm3范围的振实密度。如本文所用的振实密度是指粉末的密度的量度。振实密度的值是指依照国际标准ISO 787-11测量的值。
特别优选的乱层氮化硼是来自Momentive的Softouch*氮化硼粉末CC6097。
为了更好地使皮肤模糊,乱层氮化硼优选以按组合物的重量计0.1-15%、更优选按组合物的重量计0.1-12%、甚至更优选按组合物的重量计0.4-8%、仍甚至更优选按组合物的重量计1-5%且最优选按组合物的重量计2-4%的量存在。
本发明的组合物包含0.5-5微米、优选1.1-3.3微米的平均大小范围内的非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒。优选地,所述聚烯烃颗粒具有高于1.1微米的d10值和低于3.3微米的d90值。聚烯烃颗粒优选均聚物或共聚物,优选具有2-10个碳原子的烃的共聚物。聚烯烃优选在其结构中不包含氧、硅或氮原子。进一步优选地,所述聚合物在其结构中不包含丙烯酸酯。经聚合以制备所述聚合物的优选的烯烃包括乙烯、丙烯、辛烯或其组合。最优选的非硅酮聚烯烃是充分聚合以呈微粒形式的乙烯/辛烯共聚物。这些聚烯烃颗粒可以以OptitouchTM从Dowchemicals商购得到。聚烯烃颗粒优选具有1.4-1.6、优选1.45-1.55范围内的折射率。
非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒优选以0.1-10重量%、更优选0.1-5重量%被包含在组合物中。
为了实现更好的模糊效果和/或不透明性,氮化硼与非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒的重量比优选1:10至10:1,更优选1:1至4:1。
所述组合物可另外包含其它微粒活性物,如二氧化硅和/或有机硅弹性体以进一步增强模糊功效。如果包含二氧化硅颗粒,则其优选多孔二氧化硅且优选非热解二氧化硅。优选地,多孔二氧化硅是亲水性的。多孔二氧化硅优选具有200纳米-40微米、更优选0.6-25微米、甚至更优选为1-20微米、仍更优选为1.5-12微米且最优选2-5微米的平均直径。特别优选的多孔二氧化硅包括来自Kobo Products公司的MSS-500/3H、MSS-500/H。如果包含,则多孔二氧化硅优选以按组合物的重量计0.01-20%、更优选按组合物的重量计0.05-14%、甚至更优选按组合物的重量计0.2-9%、仍甚至更优选按组合物的重量计0.4-5%且最优选按组合物的重量计0.8-4%的量存在。
所述组合物可任选地另外包含有机硅弹性体。用于本发明中的有机硅弹性体优选有机硅弹性体粉末。高度优选所述有机硅弹性体是交联的。优选的有机硅弹性体是以二甲聚硅氧烷/乙烯基二甲聚硅氧烷交联聚合物(crosspolymer)、二甲聚硅氧烷交联聚合物和聚硅酮-11的INCI名称获得的有机聚硅氧烷。更优选地,所述有机硅弹性体是二甲聚硅氧烷/乙烯基二甲聚硅氧烷交联聚合物。
通常,有机硅弹性体的平均直径为0.2-50微米,更优选0.5-20微米,甚至更优选0.8-10微米且仍甚至更优选1.5-6微米。
有机硅弹性体优选以按组合物的重量计0.5-20%、更优选1-15%、甚至更优选3-12%、仍甚至最优选4.5-9%的量存在。
优选地,所述组合物另外包含增白颜料。增白颜料通常为高折射率材料的颗粒。例如,增白颜料可具有大于1.3、更优选大于1.8且最优选2.0-2.7的折射率。此类增白颜料的实例是包含氯氧化铋、硫酸钡、云母、二氧化硅、二氧化钛、氧化锆、氧化铝、氧化锌或其组合的那些。更优选的增白颜料是包含二氧化钛、氧化锌、氧化锆、云母、铁氧化物或其组合的颗粒。甚至更优选的增白颜料是包含氧化锌、氧化锆、二氧化钛或其组合的颗粒,因为这些材料具有特别高的折射率。仍甚至更优选地,增白颜料选自二氧化钛、氧化锌或其混合物,且最优选的增白颜料是二氧化钛。
增白颜料的平均直径通常为15纳米至2微米,更优选35纳米至800纳米,甚至更优选50纳米至500纳米且仍甚至更优选100纳米至300纳米。增白颜料的直径是指在非聚集状态下的颗粒的直径。在没有产生良好限定的球体的情况下,直径意指颗粒上的最大的可测量距离。平均直径可例如通过扫描电子显微镜检查(SEM)或透射电子显微镜检查(TEM),通过对至少一百个颗粒的值取平均来测量。
优选地,所述组合物包含0.001-10重量%、更优选0.01-6重量%、仍更优选0.1-3重量%且最优选0.2-2重量%的量的增白颜料。
所述组合物优选另外包含一种或多种有机防晒剂。众多种有机防晒剂适于与本发明的基本成分组合使用。适合的UV-A/UV-B防晒剂包括2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、辛基二甲基对氨基苯甲酸、二没食子酰基三油酸酯(digalloyltrioleate)、2,2-二羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、4-(双(羟丙基))氨基苯甲酸乙酯、2-氰基-3,3-二苯基丙烯酸2-乙基己酯、水杨酸2-乙基己酯、对氨基苯甲酸甘油酯、水杨酸3,3,5-三甲基环己酯、邻氨基苯甲酸甲酯、对二甲基氨基苯甲酸或氨基苯甲酸酯、对二甲基-氨基苯甲酸2-乙基己酯、2-苯基苯并咪唑-5-磺酸、2-(对二甲基氨基苯基)-5-磺酸基苯并噁唑酸(5-sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid)、对甲氧基肉桂酸2-乙基己酯、丁基甲氧基二苯酰基甲烷、2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、辛基二甲基-对氨基苯甲酸和其混合物。最适合的有机防晒剂是对甲氧基肉桂酸2-乙基己酯、丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷或其混合物。
安全且有效量的有机防晒剂可用于本发明中可用的组合物中。该组合物优选包含0.1-10%、更优选0.1-5%的有机防晒剂。
本发明的组合物优选包含皮肤增亮剂。根据本发明,维生素B3化合物(包括维生素B3的衍生物)例如烟酸、尼克酸或烟酰胺是优选的皮肤增亮剂,最优选烟酰胺。当使用时,维生素B3化合物优选以按所述组合物的重量计0.1-10%、更优选0.2-5%范围内的量存在。
所述组合物可包含其它有益的皮肤护理活性物如视黄醇、视黄酯、间苯二酚、尿囊素、泛醌、共轭亚油酸、12-羟基硬脂酸或其衍生物。其中最优选包含在本发明组合物中的是抗老化活性物如视黄醇或视黄酯。
本发明的组合物还可以包含化妆品上可接受的载体。在一些实施方案中,载体可以是(或至少包括)水和油的乳液,其中在某些实施方案中,水和油的乳液可以是油包水乳液。然而,优选的乳液是水包油型。
用于此类乳液的油相中的优选疏水材料包括软化剂(emollient),如脂肪、油、脂肪醇、脂肪酸、皂、硅油、合成酯和/或烃。
硅酮可分为挥发性和非挥发性的种类。挥发性硅油(如果使用)优选选自含有3-9个、优选4-5个硅原子的环状(环聚二甲基硅氧烷)或直链聚二甲基硅氧烷。
可用作软化剂材料的非挥发性硅酮包括聚烷基硅氧烷、聚烷基芳基硅氧烷和聚醚硅氧烷共聚物。可用于本文中的基本上非挥发性的聚烷基硅氧烷包括例如在25℃下具有约5×10-6m2/s-0.1m2/s粘度的聚二甲基硅氧烷。可用于本发明组合物中的优选的非挥发性软化剂中包括在25℃下具有约1×10-5m2/s-约4×10-4m2/s粘度的聚二甲基硅氧烷。
非硅酮软化剂的特定实例包括硬脂醇、单蓖麻油酸甘油酯、貂油、鲸蜡醇、异硬脂酸异丙酯、硬脂酸、棕榈酸异丁酯、硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、油醇、月桂酸异丙酯、月桂酸己酯、油酸癸酯、十八烷-2-醇、异鲸蜡醇、二十烷醇、山萮醇、棕榈酸鲸蜡酯、硅油如二甲基聚硅氧烷、癸二酸二正丁酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、硬脂酸异丙酯、硬脂酸丁酯、聚乙二醇、三乙二醇、羊毛脂、可可脂、玉米油、棉花籽油、橄榄油、棕榈仁油、菜籽油、红花籽油、月见草油、大豆油、向日葵籽油、鳄梨油、芝麻籽油、椰油、花生油、蓖麻油、乙酰化羊毛脂醇、石油冻(petroleum jelly)、矿物油、肉豆蔻酸丁酯、异硬脂酸、棕榈酸、亚油酸异丙酯、乳酸月桂酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、油酸癸酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯和其混合物。
在酯软化剂中,有:
a)具有10-20个碳原子的脂肪酸的烯基酯或烷基酯。其实例包括新戊酸异花生酯(isoarachidyl neopentanoate)、新戊酸异癸酯、异壬酸异壬酯、蓖麻油酸鲸蜡酯、肉豆蔻酸油烯基酯、硬脂酸油烯基酯和油酸油烯基酯;
b)醚酯,如乙氧基化脂肪醇的脂肪酸酯;
c)多元醇酯。丁二醇、乙二醇单脂肪酸酯和乙二醇二脂肪酸酯、二甘醇单脂肪酸酯和二甘醇二脂肪酸酯、聚乙二醇(200-6000)单脂肪酸酯和聚乙二醇(200-6000)二脂肪酸酯、丙二醇单脂肪酸酯和丙二醇二脂肪酸酯、聚丙二醇2000单油酸酯、聚丙二醇2000单硬脂酸酯、乙氧基化丙二醇单硬脂酸酯、单脂肪酸甘油酯和二脂肪酸甘油酯、聚甘油聚脂肪酯、乙氧基化单硬脂酸甘油酯、1,3-丁二醇单硬脂酸酯、1,3-丁二醇二硬脂酸酯、聚氧乙烯多元醇脂肪酸酯、失水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯和聚氧乙烯失水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯是令人满意的多元醇酯。特别有用的是季戊四醇、三羟甲基丙烷和C1-C30醇的新戊二醇酯。实例是四乙基己酸季戊四醇酯;
d)蜡酯,如蜂蜡、鲸蜡和三山萮精蜡(tribehenin wax);
e)固醇酯,其中胆固醇脂肪酸酯是其实例。
f)脂肪酸的糖酯,如蔗糖聚山萮酸酯和蔗糖聚棉籽酸酯;或
g)上述(a)至(f)中两种或更多种的混合物。
特别有用的还有以Finsolve品牌出售的苯甲酸C12-15烷基酯。
适合的软化剂的烃包括矿脂、矿物油、C11-C13异链烷烃、聚α烯烃、异十六烷或其混合物。
载体中水的量可例如按个人护理组合物的重量计在1-99%、更优选5-90%、甚至更优选35-80%、最优在40-70%的范围内。
可包含在化妆品上可接受的载体中的其它材料包括溶剂、湿润剂、增稠剂和粉末。可单独使用或作为混合物使用的这些类型材料中的每一种的实例如下:
溶剂包括乙醇、异丙醇、丙酮、乙二醇单乙醚、二甘醇单丁醚、二甘醇单乙醚和其混合物。
湿润剂包括多元醇型的那些。典型的多元醇包括聚亚烷基二醇且更优选亚烷基多元醇和它们的衍生物,包括丙二醇、一缩二丙二醇、聚丙二醇、聚乙二醇和其衍生物、山梨糖醇、羟丙基山梨糖醇、己二醇、1,3-丁二醇、异戊二醇、1,2,6-己三醇、甘油、乙氧基化甘油、丙氧基化甘油和其混合物。湿润剂的量可以是例如以组合物的重量计0.5-50%且更优选1-15%范围内的任意值。最优选甘油(glycerol)(也被称为甘油(glycerin))。甘油的量可在例如以组合物的重量计0.5-50%、更优选1-35%、最佳2-15%的范围。
组合物中可包含各种增稠剂。说明性但非限制性的是硬脂酸、丙烯酰胺/丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物(Aristoflex AVC)、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸铝(Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate)、聚丙烯酸盐(如卡波姆(Carbomer),包括980、1342、Pemulen和增稠剂)、多糖(包括黄原胶、瓜尔胶、果胶、角叉菜胶和菌核胶)、纤维素(包括羧甲基纤维素、乙基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素和甲基羟甲基纤维素)、矿物质(包括滑石、二氧化硅、氧化铝、云母和粘土,后者由膨润土、锂蒙脱石和绿坡缕石表示)、硅酸镁铝和其混合物。增稠剂的量可在例如以组合物的重量计0.05-10%、更优选0.3-2%的范围。
粉末包括白垩、滑石、漂白土、高岭土、淀粉、树胶、胶体二氧化硅聚丙烯酸钠、四烷基和/或三烷基芳基铵蒙脱石、化学改性的硅酸镁铝、有机改性的蒙脱石粘土、水合硅酸铝、热解二氧化硅、羧基乙烯基聚合物、羧甲基纤维素钠和乙二醇单硬脂酸酯。
优选地,个人护理组合物具有至少-80%的L&W(细纹和皱纹)指数,且能够维持皮肤的亮度。更优选地,个人护理组合物具有-70%至300%的L&W指数,且能够将皮肤的亮度改善至少1。甚至更优选地,个人护理组合物具有-45%至200%的L&W指数,且能够将皮肤的亮度改善至少1。L&W指数的测量描述于实施例2中。
本发明的个人护理组合物优选皮肤护理组合物。更优选地,所述组合物优选止汗剂组合物或面部(眼睑和嘴唇除外)护理组合物。皮肤护理组合物是指适于局部施加至人皮肤的组合物,包括免洗型产品和洗掉型产品。优选地,该术语涵盖流体液体,且特别是保湿剂而不是化妆产品(make-up product)。最优选免洗型组合物。如本申请参考组合物所用的术语“免洗型”是指施加至皮肤或在皮肤上摩擦并留在其上的组合物。如本申请参考组合物所用的术语“洗掉型”意指被施加至皮肤或在皮肤上摩擦且在施加后基本上立即被冲洗掉的皮肤清洁剂。如本文所用的术语“皮肤”包括面部(眼睑和嘴唇除外)、颈部、胸部、腹部、背部、臂、臂下、手和腿上的皮肤。优选地,“皮肤”意指包括面部(眼睑和嘴唇除外)上和臂下的皮肤。更优选地皮肤意指面部上除嘴唇和眼睑以外的皮肤。
该组合物可以任何已知的形式配制,更优选的形式是霜或乳。
用于本发明组合物的包装可以是罐或管,以及用于化妆品、霜、洗涤和乳剂型产品常见的任何其它形式。该组合物可局部施加,且优选每平方厘米的皮肤施加1-4毫克的组合物。
本发明的组合物优选为局部施加它的个体的皮肤提供美容益处。美容益处的实例包括在期望的皮肤表面上减轻细纹、皱纹、毛孔和/或瑕点的外观;使肤色均匀或其组合。
提供以下实施例以促进对本发明的理解。所述实施例并不意在限制权利要求的范围。
具体实施方式
实施例
材料
#氮化硼颗粒的平均粒径是使用动态光散射技术对聚集颗粒测量的,且由材料供应商报告。
(⊥/II)是指分别用垂直和平行极化测量的折射率。
实施例A-D、1-2:组合氮化硼与非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒的协同效应
如表1中所示配制一系列皮肤护理组合物。
表1
#此处使用的乙烯辛烷共聚物来源为Optitouch。
(1).在施加个人护理组合物之前和之后测量光泽度。
将由聚氨酯弹性体制成的起皱生物皮肤(Bio-skin)板(BP-EW1#BSC,BeaulaxCo.,Ltd.,日本东京)用作衬底以模拟具有褶皱的人体皮肤。采用称为SAMBA的双极化图像系统(Bossa Nova Technologies,USA),依照Akira Matsubara[(Skin translucency:whatis it and how is it measured),The International Federation of Societies ofCosmetic Chemists(IFSCC))(IFSCC)2006年大会,日本大阪]所描述的方法和原理测量起皱生物皮肤板的光泽度。装配名为SAMBA脸部系统的软件(版本4.3)用于分析。对起皱的生物皮肤板进行曝光时间为80毫秒的入射光测试。操作模式是平行极化和交叉极化模式。
然后将28mg如表1中所制备的一种样品施加至指套,通过指套在面积为7cm2的圆形区域内铺展开以用于光泽测试。在等待30分钟让样品自然干燥后,使用SAMBA系统再次测量起皱生物皮肤板的光泽度。
(2)L&W指数的计算
入射光被生物皮肤板反射和散射。镜面反射光保持与入射光相同的极化,而来自体积的散射光(漫射光)未极化。SAMBA照相机连续采集了对应于两种极化状态(平行和交叉)的两个图像。平行图像强度(P)由反射光和散射光贡献,而交叉图像强度(C)仅由散射光贡献。平行图像加上交叉图像等于传统照相机递送的或人眼感知的整体图像。
通过(P-C)/(P+C)计算光泽度。对每个像素进行光泽度的计算。光泽度的标准偏差(STD)是皮肤外观均匀性的量度。STD越高,均匀性越低。在本申请中,我们定义了L&W(细纹和皱纹)指数,以证明皮肤护理组合物的模糊功效程度。L&W指数通过(施加样品前的光泽度的STD-施加样品后的光泽度的STD)/(施加样品前的光泽度的STD)计算。L&W指数越高,样品的模糊功效越高。
(3)颜色效果的测量
采用生物皮肤板(颜色:50#,来自BEAULAX Co.,Ltd.,日本东京)来测量颜色。将0.5g样品均匀涂覆至面积为250cm2的生物皮肤板上。将涂覆过的生物皮肤在约25℃下自然干燥0.5小时。通过便携式分光光度计CM2600d(MINOLTA Co.,Ltd.,日本)在6个点处涂覆样品之前和之后测量生物皮肤板的L*、a*和b*。ΔL*、Δa*、Δb*分别代表与涂覆前相比涂覆样品后的白度、红色、黄色的变化。E是颜色增加的综合量度,并使用下式计算:
关于L&W指数的数据汇总于表2中。
表2
实施例 | L&W指数 |
A | 0.15% |
B | -32.28% |
1 | 27.61% |
C | -52.58% |
2 | -2.76% |
D | 19.44% |
表2中的数据表明,与其中仅包含这些成分之一的组合物(实施例A和B)相比,具有乱层氮化硼和要求保护的聚合物的根据本发明的组合物(实施例1)展现出极为优异的模糊功效。石墨型氮化硼(实施例2)展现出低于乱层氮化硼(实施例1)和乱层氮化硼有机硅弹性体的组合(实施例D)的L&W指数,因此它在保护范围之外。
此外,乱层氮化硼与石墨氮化硼相比功效更好(实施例1相对于实施例2)。
更进一步地,同与基于硅酮的聚合物颗粒的组合(实施例D)相比,当乱层氮化硼与非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒组合(实施例1)时,功效更好。
关于颜色效果的数据汇总于表3中。
表3
样品 | ΔL* | Δa* | Δb* | ΔE |
1 | 5.15±0.464 | -3.74±0.328 | -8.93±0.747 | 10.96 |
D | 4.22±0.154 | -3.11±0.071 | -7.52±0.173 | 9.16 |
表3中的数据指示,与具有乱层氮化硼和基于硅酮的聚合物颗粒的组合物(实施例D)相比,具有乱层氮化硼和要求保护的聚合物的根据本发明的组合物(实施例1)展现出更高的亮度、更少的发红(redness)和黄变(yellowness),如皮肤增亮益处所期望的。
实施例1、A、E-H:当使用超出要求保护的大小范围的聚烯烃颗粒时的组合物。
制备如表4中所示的组合物。这里重复组合物1和A用于比较。
表-4
测量表4中的各种组合物的L&W指数,并将值汇总于表5中。
表-5
实施例 | L&W指数 |
1 | 27.61% |
A | 0.15% |
E | -67.02% |
F | 4.95% |
G | -67.91% |
H | -8.13% |
表5中的数据表明,用包含要求保护的粒径的聚烯烃的组合物(实施例1)获得的功效优于用要求保护的大小之外的颗粒制备的样品(实施例F和H)。
Claims (15)
1.一种个人护理组合物,其包含:
a)乱层氮化硼颗粒;
b)平均粒径在0.5-5微米范围内的非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒;和
c)化妆品上可接受的载体。
2.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中所述氮化硼具有100纳米至10微米范围内的平均粒径。
3.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中所述氮化硼以按所述组合物的重量计0.1-15%量存在。
4.根据权利要求3所述的组合物,其中所述氮化硼以按所述组合物的重量计0.4-8%量存在。
5.根据前述权利要求1至4中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒具有高于1.1微米的d10值和低于3.3微米的d90值。
6.根据前述权利要求1至4中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒包括具有2-10个碳原子的烃类烯烃的均聚物或共聚物。
7.根据权利要求6所述的组合物,其中所述烃类烯烃不包含氧原子、硅原子或氮原子。
8.根据权利要求6所述的组合物,其中所述烯烃包括乙烯、丙烯、辛烯或其组合。
9.如权利要求6所述的组合物,其中所述非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒包含乙烯/辛烯共聚物。
10.根据前述权利要求1至4中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒的折射率在1.4至1.6的范围内。
11.根据前述权利要求1至4中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒以按所述组合物的重量计0.1-10%的量存在。
12.根据权利要求11所述的组合物,其中所述非硅酮聚烯烃颗粒以按所述组合物的重量计0.1-5%的量存在。
13.根据前述权利要求1至4中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述化妆品上可接受的载体包括水包油乳液。
14.一种通过提供改善的模糊和降低的光泽来改善皮肤外观的方法,其包括将根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物施加于期望的皮肤表面上的步骤。
15.根据前述权利要求1至13中任一项所述的组合物用于在期望的皮肤表面上减轻细纹、皱纹、毛孔和/或瑕点的外观;使肤色均匀;或其组合的用途。
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PCT/EP2017/077905 WO2018095704A1 (en) | 2016-11-23 | 2017-10-31 | Personal care composition |
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CA3171605A1 (en) * | 2020-03-31 | 2021-10-07 | Xiujuan CAO | Topical composition based on porous particles and a crosspolymer comprising adipic acid and neopentylglycol |
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US5356617A (en) | 1990-05-14 | 1994-10-18 | Kobo Products, Inc. | Pigment-material-microsphere complexes and their production |
US7078046B1 (en) | 1999-08-18 | 2006-07-18 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Electrostatically-sprayable topical compositions having insulating external phase and conductive internal phase |
US6558682B2 (en) | 1999-08-18 | 2003-05-06 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Discontinuous films from skin care compositions |
US6514504B1 (en) | 1999-08-18 | 2003-02-04 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Discontinuous films from skin care compositions |
US7976941B2 (en) | 1999-08-31 | 2011-07-12 | Momentive Performance Materials Inc. | Boron nitride particles of spherical geometry and process for making thereof |
US20030113357A1 (en) | 2000-05-23 | 2003-06-19 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Skin Care Compositions |
US6511672B2 (en) | 2001-01-17 | 2003-01-28 | Color Access, Inc. | Compositions containing optical diffusing pigments |
CN100428924C (zh) | 2003-06-19 | 2008-10-29 | 宝洁公司 | 硅氧烷包多元醇乳液 |
US20050187128A1 (en) | 2004-01-27 | 2005-08-25 | Guenaelle Martin | Cosmetic composition of the compact powder type |
FR2869796A1 (fr) | 2004-05-07 | 2005-11-11 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique pour le maquillage et/ou le soin de la peau, notamment du visage |
FR2886853B1 (fr) | 2005-06-14 | 2007-09-28 | Alain Saintrond | Composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique au nitrure de bore |
DE102005063063A1 (de) | 2005-12-29 | 2006-10-05 | Henkel Kgaa | Kosmetische Zusammensetzungen zur Hautmattierung |
US8206729B2 (en) | 2006-03-02 | 2012-06-26 | Momentive Performance Materials Inc. | Compositions for topical applications comprising boron nitride |
US9345649B2 (en) | 2006-12-21 | 2016-05-24 | Avon Products, Inc. | Cosmetic composition containing novel fractal particle-based gels |
US20090081316A1 (en) * | 2007-09-20 | 2009-03-26 | Momentive Performance Materials Inc. | Boron nitride-containing silicone gel composition |
JP2009292772A (ja) | 2008-06-05 | 2009-12-17 | Mandom Corp | 睫用化粧料 |
KR101502026B1 (ko) | 2008-10-31 | 2015-03-13 | (주)아모레퍼시픽 | 오일-프리 압축 또는 고형 파우더 화장료 조성물 |
JPWO2010140500A1 (ja) | 2009-06-05 | 2012-11-15 | 住友精化株式会社 | 化粧料 |
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EP2846760A2 (en) | 2012-05-09 | 2015-03-18 | Dow Corning Corporation | Composition for application to the skin comprising silsesquioxane resin wax and solid particulate |
FR2992210B1 (fr) | 2012-06-21 | 2014-11-28 | Oreal | Composition a effet matifiant comprenant des particules d'aerogels hydrophobes et des particules d'elastomeres de silicone |
FR2992172B1 (fr) | 2012-06-21 | 2014-06-20 | Oreal | Composition a effet matifiant comprenant des particules d'aerogels hydrophobes et des particules de nitrure de bore |
US20150174048A1 (en) * | 2012-06-21 | 2015-06-25 | L'oreal | Pore hiding cosmetic composition comprising a plate type filler, a silicon elastomer and an oil absorbing filler |
US20150157539A1 (en) | 2012-07-13 | 2015-06-11 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising composite particles |
FR3000955B1 (fr) | 2013-01-16 | 2015-07-03 | Commissariat Energie Atomique | Nanoparticule composite, son procede de fabrication et son utilisation |
WO2014203913A1 (en) | 2013-06-18 | 2014-12-24 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition |
FR3024032A1 (fr) | 2014-07-22 | 2016-01-29 | Oreal | Emulsions comprenant au moins une charge et stabilisees par un polymere silicone reticule |
WO2016149917A1 (en) | 2015-03-25 | 2016-09-29 | L'oreal | Oil in water emulsion |
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US10653589B2 (en) | 2020-05-19 |
JP7055804B2 (ja) | 2022-04-18 |
ZA201902804B (en) | 2020-10-28 |
CN109982749A (zh) | 2019-07-05 |
JP2020500188A (ja) | 2020-01-09 |
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