CN109431908B - Whitening and moisturizing cream, preparation method thereof and whitening cosmetic additive - Google Patents
Whitening and moisturizing cream, preparation method thereof and whitening cosmetic additive Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN109431908B CN109431908B CN201811603394.4A CN201811603394A CN109431908B CN 109431908 B CN109431908 B CN 109431908B CN 201811603394 A CN201811603394 A CN 201811603394A CN 109431908 B CN109431908 B CN 109431908B
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- whitening
- extract
- moisturizing cream
- addition amount
- skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
- A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention provides a whitening and moisturizing cream, a preparation method thereof and a whitening cosmetic additive. The whitening and moisturizing cream comprises a whitening cosmetic additive, and the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is 0.01-15% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream; the whitening cosmetic additive comprises ginseng extract and mint extract. The whitening and moisturizing cream disclosed by the invention is mild in formula, and can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, so that the whitening effect is achieved. Further, the additive for whitening cosmetics according to the present invention has an excellent inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity and has no side effects on the human body.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a whitening and moisturizing cream, a preparation method thereof and a whitening cosmetic additive, and belongs to the field of cosmetics.
Background
Melanin (Melanin) is mainly produced by melanocytes (melanocytes) in the basal layer of the epidermis of human skin, and it reduces the damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin. The content and distribution of melanin determine the color of the skin. However, abnormal accumulation of melanin in the basal layer causes hyperpigmentation to cause melasma, freckles, age spots, etc., affecting the quality of life of people. With the progress of the research on melanin biosynthesis, researchers found that tyrosinase plays an important role in melanin biosynthesis, which is a major rate-limiting enzyme in the conversion of tyrosine and dopa to melanin, and that its overexpression is a major cause of hyperpigmentation. Therefore, inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase can block the biosynthesis reaction chain of melanin, reduce the generation of melanin and realize the whitening effect.
The main routes of skin whitening and skin care include the following for the pathways and influencing factors of melanin production: (1) reducing the number of melanocytes produced by inhibiting the proliferation of melanocytes of the skin; (2) the biosynthesis of melanin is reduced by inhibiting the catalytic activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme for skin melanin generation, so that the purpose of whitening is achieved; (3) through sun protection, the damage of ultraviolet rays in sunlight to the skin (sunburn and sunburn) is prevented, and skin aging is slowed down; (4) is prepared by removing oxygen free radicals from skin, and relieving melanogenesis and skin aging by using antioxidant.
In the prior art, in order to prevent skin from becoming black, spots, freckles, etc., and to maintain the original whiteness of the skin, whitening cosmetics mixed with various whitening agents such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, etc. have been proposed. However, if these substances are mixed in a large amount, problems may occur in the sense of use and safety. Such as hydroquinone, is very irritating to the skin; kojic acid is easy to discolor and has certain irritation to skin; arbutin has single action and poor effect, etc.
With the increase of attention of people to skin health, the development of a natural whitening agent with safety, stability, obvious effect and high cost performance has become one of the main research directions of the current pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, and has a very good development prospect.
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
In view of the prior art, hydroquinone is very irritating to the skin; kojic acid is easy to discolor and has certain irritation to skin; the invention provides a whitening and moisturizing cream, which has the problems of single effect, poor effect and the like. The formula is mild, and the activity of tyrosinase can be effectively inhibited, so that the whitening effect is achieved.
Further, the present invention provides a whitening cosmetic additive of the present invention, which has an excellent inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity and has no side effects on human body.
Further, the invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing cream, which is simple to operate and easy to obtain raw materials.
Means for solving the problems
The invention provides a whitening and moisturizing cream which comprises a whitening cosmetic additive, wherein the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is 0.01-15% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream; the whitening cosmetic additive comprises ginseng extract and mint extract.
The whitening and moisturizing cream further comprises a humectant, a thickener, a pH regulator, grease, an emulsifier, a skin conditioner, an antioxidant and a chelating agent; wherein the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20% by the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-5%; the addition amount of the pH regulator is 0.01-1%; the addition amount of the grease is 10-30%; the addition amount of the emulsifier is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0-10%; the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0.01-2%; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0.01-1%.
The whitening and moisturizing cream comprises one or a combination of more than two of propylene glycol, butanediol, panthenol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol polyacrylate, sodium hyaluronate and trehalose; and/or
The oil comprises one or more of isopropyl myristate, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadecyldimethyl siloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, oleyl erucate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, shea butter, ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrogenated polydecene, cyclohexasiloxane, C20-24 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane, C13-14 isoparaffin, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, hydrogenated soybean oil, phytosterol and olive oil unsaponifiable matter.
The whitening and moisturizing cream comprises one or more of a compound of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, a compound of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate, a compound of sorbitan sesquioleate and isosteareth-20, PEG-10 rapeseed sterol, laureth-7, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, glyceryl stearate, steareth-20, ceteth-20 and polysorbate-60; and/or
The pH regulator comprises one or more of aminomethyl propanol, arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
The whitening and moisturizing cream comprises one or a combination of more than two of carbomer, xanthan gum, polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, behenyl alcohol, polyacrylamide, acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer and hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer; and/or
The antioxidant comprises one or more of vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, butylated hydroxytoluene, lycopene and ascorbic acid ethyl ether.
The whitening and moisturizing cream comprises one or a combination of more than two of crambe abyssinica seed oil, brown algae extract, palmitoyl oligopeptide, magnesium aspartate, ceramide 2, macroalgae extract, allantoin, hydrolyzed collagen, ulva extract, colloidal oat flour, beta-glucan, pansy extract, PEG-10 campesterol and chlorella fermentation product; and/or
The chelating agent comprises EDTA-2Na and/or EDTA-4 Na.
The whitening and moisturizing cream provided by the invention is characterized in that the addition amount of the ginseng extract is 0.1-80% and the addition amount of the mint extract is 20-99.9% of the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive.
The whitening and moisturizing cream provided by the invention is characterized in that the mass ratio of the ginseng extract to the mint extract is 1: 0.4 to 75, preferably 1: 1-70, more preferably 1: 1.5 to 65, and more preferably 1:2 to 60, and more preferably 1: 2.5 to 57, and more preferably 1: 3 to 55.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing cream, wherein the preparation method comprises the step of mixing the components of the whitening and moisturizing cream.
The invention also provides a whitening cosmetic additive, which comprises a ginseng extract and a mint extract, wherein the ginseng extract accounts for 0.1-80% of the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive, and the mint extract accounts for 20-99.9%; preferably, the first and second electrodes are formed of a metal,
the mass ratio of the ginseng extract to the mint extract is 1: 0.4 to 75, preferably 1: 1-70, more preferably 1: 1.5 to 65, and more preferably 1:2 to 60, and more preferably 1: 2.5 to 57, and more preferably 1: 3 to 55.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The whitening and moisturizing cream disclosed by the invention is mild in formula, and can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, so that the whitening effect is achieved.
Further, the additive for whitening cosmetics according to the present invention has an excellent inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity and has no side effects on the human body.
Furthermore, the preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing cream is simple to operate, easily available in raw materials and capable of realizing batch production.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the log mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition ratios of the ginseng extracts of comparative examples 1-5 of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the log mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition efficiency of mint extracts of comparative examples 6 to 10 of the present invention;
fig. 3 is a graph showing the log mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition ratio of the whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 7 of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is a graph showing the relationship between the content of ginseng extract and the interaction coefficient in the whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 7 according to the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a graph showing a comparison of the melanin change rates of application examples 1 to 8 and application comparative examples 1 to 2 of the present invention.
Detailed Description
Various exemplary embodiments, features and aspects of the invention will be described in detail below. The word "exemplary" is used exclusively herein to mean "serving as an example, embodiment, or illustration. Any embodiment described herein as "exemplary" is not necessarily to be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments.
Furthermore, in the following detailed description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a better understanding of the present invention. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced without some of these specific details. In other instances, methods, means, devices and steps which are well known to those skilled in the art have not been described in detail so as not to obscure the invention.
First embodiment
A first embodiment of the present invention provides a whitening cosmetic additive comprising: ginseng extract and mint extract. The whitening cosmetic additive disclosed by the invention can well inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, and has an excellent whitening effect when used in cosmetics.
Herba Menthae (Mentha haplocalyx Briq) is a perennial Mentha herb of Labiatae, and is also named as herba Menthae Rotundifoliae, Sucus mint, Bofolium Nelumbinis, etc. The mint is one of the traditional spice plants which are commonly used and important in China and have wide planting area, the upper part of the mint can be used as a medicine, and the whole plant has strong cool fragrance and is a plant which has wide distribution and strong adaptability and has strong special aromatic odor.
The volatile oil in mint plants is the main chemical component in mint and is the most deeply studied component. Research shows that the main chemical components in oil are alcohol, ketone, ester, terpene hydrocarbon and terpene hydrocarbon. The fresh mint leaves contain about 0.8-1% of volatile oil, and the dry stems and leaves contain about 1.3-2%.
In addition, the mentha plants are widely distributed and have strong ecological adaptability, and the form and chemical components of the mentha plants have more variation, so that the extracted peppermint oil has great component difference. The non-volatile oil of herba Menthae comprises: amino acids, flavonoids, organic acids, fatty acids, and the like. In addition, inorganic elements, vitamins, carotene, ursolic acid, etc. are also included.
Ginseng (Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer) is a perennial herbaceous plant of Araliaceae, and is one of the most potential medicinal plant resources in Changbai mountain.
Ginseng contains a variety of chemical components, such as: ginsenoside, ginseng polysaccharide, ginseng protein, polypeptide and the like. Wherein Ginsenoside (Ginsenoside) is a steroid compound, and is triterpene saponin with dammarane type and tetracyclic triterpene as main structure in chemical structure. Ginsenoside is one of representative active ingredients in ginseng, and is widely present in plants of the genus panax. The ginseng polysaccharide is another effective active ingredient of ginseng and is a good natural drug effect ingredient. The combined application of the ginseng polysaccharide and the small molecular chemotherapeutic drug can repair and reduce the damage of the chemotherapeutic drug to the human immune system, and play the role of synergy and attenuation.
The Ginseng radix extract can be used as a natural additive for cosmetic production. Ginsenoside has effects of resisting oxidation, preventing ultraviolet, and protecting skin, and is one of physiologically active substances in Ginseng radix. Ginsenoside can also stimulate the activity of skin fibroblasts, promote collagen synthesis, and make skin younger, thereby delaying skin aging process, exerting its anti-aging effect, and increasing SOD content and activity in skin within a certain range. The Ginseng radix extract has high ginsenoside content, and can scavenge DPPH (1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine) free radical.
The invention uses the combination of the ginseng extract and the mint extract, and the ginseng extract and the mint extract have synergistic effect and can further increase the effect of inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase. In the invention, the ginseng extract is added in an amount of 0.1-80% and the mint extract is added in an amount of 20-99.9% based on the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive.
In the present invention, the mass ratio of the ginseng extract to the mint extract is 1: 0.4 to 75, preferably 1: 1-70, more preferably 1: 1.5 to 65, and more preferably 1:2 to 60, and more preferably 1: 2.5 to 57, and more preferably 1: 3 to 55. When the mass ratio of the ginseng extract to the mint extract is within the above range, a synergistic effect can be further obtained, and the tyrosinase activity inhibiting effect is excellent.
Second embodiment
A second embodiment of the present invention provides a whitening and moisturizing cream including the whitening cosmetic additive of the first embodiment of the present invention. The addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is 0.01-15% by the total mass of the whitening moisturizing cream, preferably 0.1-10%, for example: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, etc. When the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is between 0.01 and 15 percent, the content of melanin in the skin after the whitening moisturizing cream is used is reduced. The whitening cosmetic additive can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, thereby achieving an excellent whitening effect.
The whitening and moisturizing cream further comprises a humectant, a thickening agent, a pH regulator, grease, an emulsifier, a skin conditioner, an antioxidant and a chelating agent. The whitening and moisturizing cream disclosed by the invention is mild in formula composition, and can fully exert the effects of the whitening cosmetic additive. Specifically, the method comprises the following steps:
the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream. When the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20%, the humectant can play a role in keeping moisture. In order to further exert the efficacy of the humectant, the humectant of the present invention may be added in an amount of 1 to 18%, 3 to 16%, 5 to 14%, 6 to 12%, for example: 2%, 3%, 6%, 8%, 10%, 12%, 15%, 17%, 19%, etc.
In the invention, the humectant comprises one or a combination of more than two of propylene glycol, butanediol, panthenol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol polyacrylate, sodium hyaluronate and trehalose.
The addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-5% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream. The whitening and moisturizing cream of the invention can be made to have a proper consistency by adding a thickening agent. Preferably, the thickener of the present invention may be added in an amount of 0.05 to 4%, 0.1 to 3%, 1 to 3%, or the like.
In the invention, the thickening agent comprises one or the combination of more than two of carbomer, xanthan gum, polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, behenyl alcohol, polyacrylamide, acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer and hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer.
The addition amount of the pH regulator is 0.01-1% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream. The pH value of the whitening and moisturizing cream is more suitable for human skin by adding the pH regulator. Preferably, the amount of the pH adjuster of the present invention added may be 0.03 to 0.8%, 0.05 to 0.5%, 0.06 to 0.3%, or the like. When the addition amount of the pH regulator is more than 1% or less than 0.01%, the whitening and moisturizing cream with proper pH value cannot be obtained.
In the present invention, the pH adjuster includes one or a combination of two or more of aminomethyl propanol, arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and the like.
The addition amount of the oil is 10-30% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream, for example, the addition amount of the oil can be 12%, 15%, 18%, 20%, 12%, 25%, 28% and the like. By adding oil into the whitening and moisturizing cream, the evaporation of water on the surface of the skin can be reduced, and the skin can be prevented from being chapped. In addition, by adding oil or fat, a hydrophobic film can be formed on the skin surface to prevent the invasion of harmful substances from the outside. When the content of the oil is less than 10%, evaporation of moisture on the skin surface cannot be reduced, and intrusion of harmful substances cannot be effectively prevented; when the content of the oil is more than 30%, the whitening and moisturizing cream is too greasy, and the use feeling is reduced.
In the present invention, the oil or fat includes one or a combination of two or more of isopropyl myristate, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadecanediol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, oleyl erucate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, shea butter, ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrogenated polydecene, cyclohexasiloxane, C20-24 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane, C13-14 isoparaffin, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, hydrogenated soybean oil, phytosterols, and olive oil unsaponifiable matter.
In the invention, the addition amount of the emulsifier is 0.01-5% by the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream, such as: may be 0.1 to 5%, may be 1 to 4%, etc. When the dosage of the emulsifier is less than 0.01%, the emulsification is insufficient, so that the system is unstable; when the dosage of the emulsifier is more than 5 percent, certain influence on the stability of the product can be caused.
In the present invention, the emulsifier includes one or a combination of two or more of a complex of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, a complex of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate, a complex of sorbitan sesquioleate and isosteareth-20, PEG-10 campesterol, laureth-7, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, glyceryl stearate, steareth-20, ceteth-20, and polysorbate-60.
In addition, in the present invention, it is preferable to use one or a combination of two or more of a complex of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, a complex of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate, and a complex of sorbitan sesquioleate and isosteareth-20 as an emulsifier, so that the whitening and moisturizing cream can be emulsified more sufficiently and has excellent stability.
In order to further improve the efficacy of the whitening and moisturizing cream, the whitening and moisturizing cream further comprises the skin conditioner. The skin conditioner is added to calm the skin, so that the facial skin injury red swelling is relieved, and wrinkles are reduced. The effective components in the skin conditioner can penetrate into the deep part of skin and be absorbed by skin, thereby improving the state of skin.
The addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0-10% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream. The skin conditioning agent may be added in an amount of 0.01-8%, may be 0.5-5%, may be 0.9-3%, etc.
The skin conditioner comprises one or more of crambe abyssinica seed oil, brown algae extract, palmitoyl oligopeptide, magnesium aspartate, ceramide 2, macroalgae extract, allantoin, hydrolyzed collagen, ulva extract, colloidal oat flour, beta-glucan, pansy extract, PEG-10 campesterol and chlorella fermentation product.
The ceramide 2 can be used for improving the sebum membrane and inhibiting the secretion of active sebaceous glands, so that the skin is balanced in water and oil, the self-protection function of the skin is enhanced, and the skin care cream is suitable for the young skin which is greasy and has requirements. The composition has good effects in moisturizing and repairing skin, is an important skin-activating component in horny layer, and can enhance skin barrier and rebuild cells.
Wherein the beta-glucan is natural plant mucilage glycan, and the component also has certain anti-allergy and anti-inflammatory effects. The beta-glucan has good compatibility with most raw materials, has no anaphylactic reaction, and can improve the skin moisturizing capability. In addition, the beta-glucan can also play a role in resisting oxidation and protecting the skin from being damaged by ultraviolet rays, can reduce skin wrinkles and improve the capability of the skin in resisting external damage.
Wherein the Ulva lactuca extract is active ingredient of thallus of Ulva lactuca or Ulva pertusa of Ulvaceae. The Ulva lactuca extract contains various unsaturated fatty acids, aldehydes (such as citral), etc. The ulva extract has the effects of sterilizing, moistening and caring skin.
The colloidal oat flour can reduce the irritation of the whitening and moisturizing cream, can relieve the pruritus symptom of the skin, and is used for diminishing inflammation, relieving itching and relieving erythema.
The whitening and moisturizing cream can be properly added with an antioxidant and a chelating agent. Generally speaking, the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0.01-2% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0.01-1%. The antioxidant can be one or more of vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, butylated hydroxytoluene, lycopene, and ascorbic acid ethyl ether. The chelating agent may be EDTA-2Na and/or EDTA-4Na, etc.
In addition, the whitening and moisturizing cream also comprises a preservative and an aromatic. The addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream; the addition amount of the aromatic is 0.01-1%. The preservative can comprise one or the combination of more than two of phenoxyethanol, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, benzoic acid and salts thereof. The aromatic may be a perfume, etc.
Third embodiment
A third embodiment of the present invention provides a method for preparing the whitening and moisturizing cream of the second embodiment, including a step of mixing the components of the cosmetic.
Specifically, the preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing cream comprises the following steps:
1. adding oil, emulsifier, part of antiseptic, aromatic, part of thickener, and antioxidant into emulsifying pot, stirring, and heating to 80-85 deg.C for dissolving completely;
2. adding water, part of humectant, chelating agent, the rest of thickener, pH regulator, and part of skin conditioner into water phase pot, stirring, and heating to 80-85 deg.C for dissolving completely;
3. slowly pumping the water phase substances in the water phase pot into an emulsifying pot, stirring, homogenizing, vacuum emulsifying, and keeping the temperature of the emulsifying pot at 80-85 deg.C;
4. cooling to 60-65 deg.C, adding the rest humectant and part of skin conditioner, homogenizing, and stirring;
5. cooling to 40-45 deg.C, adding whitening cosmetic additive, the rest antiseptic and the rest skin conditioner, and stirring;
6. cooling to 35-40 deg.C, discharging, and standing for 12-48 hr;
7. and (5) after the inspection is qualified, subpackaging, packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.
Examples
Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but those skilled in the art will appreciate that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available.
Comparative examples 1 to 5
Ginseng radix extract is used as whitening cosmetic additive. Ginseng radix extract was dissolved in 5 sets of phosphate buffer solutions with different volumes and pH of 6.8 to obtain 5 sets of test solutions with different concentrations. Wherein, the logarithmic mass concentration of the ginseng extract is shown in the following table 2.
Comparative examples 6 to 10
Herba Menthae extract is used as whitening cosmetic additive. The mint extract was dissolved in 5 sets of phosphate buffer solutions having a pH of 6.8 at volumes corresponding to comparative examples 1-5 to give 5 sets of test solutions having concentrations corresponding to comparative examples 1-5. Wherein the logarithmic mass concentration of the mint extract is shown in the following table 2.
Examples 1 to 7
Taking Ginseng radix extract and herba Menthae extract as whitening cosmetic additive. The whitening cosmetic additive was obtained by mixing the ginseng extract and the mint extract in a mass ratio of 2:1 (example 1), 1:1 (example 2), 1:2 (example 3), 15:85 (example 4), 5:95 (example 5), 2:98 (example 6), and 7:69 (example 7). The whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 5 and 7 were dissolved in 5 sets of phosphate buffer solutions having a pH of 6.8 corresponding to the volumes of comparative examples 1 to 5, respectively, and the whitening cosmetic additive of example 6 was dissolved in 4 sets of phosphate buffer solutions having a pH of 6.8 corresponding to the volumes of comparative examples 1 to 4, respectively. Examples 1-7 all gave test solutions of 5 (or 4) sets at concentrations corresponding to comparative examples 1-5 (or comparative examples 1-4). Wherein, in the whitening cosmetic additive, the contents (% by mass) of the ginseng extract and the mint extract are shown in table 1 below, and the log mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive is shown in table 3 below.
TABLE 1
In vitro testing
Tyrosinase activity is measured as the tyrosinase activity that catalyzes the production of dopaquinone from L-dopa. The method specifically comprises the following steps:
taking 1 test tube, adding 0.4mL (1.0mg/mL) of substrate L-dopa solution, adding 2.4mL of phosphate buffer solution with pH of 6.8, carrying out water bath at 30 ℃ for 10min, and then adding 0.2mL (250U/mL) of tyrosinase to obtain reaction solution 1.
After taking 1 tube, 0.2mL (250U/mL) of tyrosinase was added, and 2.8mL of a phosphate buffer solution having a pH of 6.8 was added to the tube, thereby obtaining a reaction solution 2.
0.4mL (1.0mg/mL) of the substrate L-dopa solution was added to each of 44 tubes, and then 2.4mL of the test solutions of comparative examples 1 to 10 and examples 1 to 7 was added, and after incubation in a water bath at 30 ℃ for 10 minutes, the amount of tyrosinase was then added in an amount of 0.2mL (250U/mL), to obtain a reaction solution 3.
2.4mL of the test solutions of comparative examples 1 to 10 and examples 1 to 7 were added to 44 tubes, respectively, and 0.4mL of a phosphate buffer solution having a pH of 6.8 was added, followed by incubation in a 30 ℃ water bath for 10 minutes, and then an amount of tyrosinase of 0.2mL (250U/mL) was added to obtain a reaction solution 4.
The enzymatic reaction converts L-dopa to the red product dopaquinone, with maximum absorption at 475 nm. Read the absorbance A at 475nm 1min from the start of the mixing475The rate of the enzymatic reaction is defined as A per minute475Is indicated by an increased value of (a). The absorbance A at 475nm of the reaction solution 1min after the start of the reaction was measured, and the inhibition ratio of tyrosinase activity was calculated according to the following formula. Wherein, the mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive in the table is the final mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive in the test system.
Inhibition rate ═ 1- (A)3-A4)/(A1-A2)]×100％
In the formula: a. the1Absorbance when only the substrate is contained without adding a whitening cosmetic additive;
A2the absorbance when no whitening cosmetic additive is added and no substrate is added;
A3is the absorbance when the whitening cosmetic additive and the substrate are contained;
A4is the absorbance when the cosmetic additive contains whitening cosmetic additive and no substrate is added.
The respective tyrosinase activity inhibition rates of the ginseng extract (comparative examples 1 to 5) and the mint extract (comparative examples 6 to 10) were calculated. Combining the logarithmic mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition rate graph, and calculating the corresponding mass concentration (IC) when the inhibition rate of Ginseng radix extract is 50%50A) The mass concentration (IC) corresponding to 50% inhibition rate of herba Menthae extract50B) The results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2
Then, tyrosinase inhibition rates of the whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 7 were measured. And calculating the mass concentration (IC) of Ginseng radix extract when the combined action of Ginseng radix extract and herba Menthae extract generates equivalent inhibition rate (50%) by combining the logarithmic mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition rate relationship diagram50a) The mass concentration of the mint extract ((IC) when the combined action of the ginseng extract and the mint extract produces an equivalent inhibition rate (50%))50b) The results are shown in Table 3.
The effect of the combined effect of ginseng extract and mint extract was evaluated by the interaction coefficient γ, and the specific results are shown in table 3.
γ＝IC50a/IC50A+IC50b/IC50B
Wherein, IC50ARepresents the mass concentration corresponding to the inhibition rate of the ginseng extract of 50%;
IC50Brepresents the mass concentration corresponding to the inhibition rate of 50% of the mint extract;
IC50arepresenting ginseng extractionThe mass concentration of the ginseng extract when the compound action of the extract and the mint extract generates an equivalent inhibition rate (50%);
IC50bthe mass concentration of the mint extract is expressed when the compound action of the ginseng extract and the mint extract generates an equivalent inhibition rate (50%);
wherein γ ═ 1, meaning that ginseng extract and mint extract exhibit a simple additive effect; gamma is less than 1, the ginseng extract and the mint extract show a synergistic effect, and the smaller the gamma value is, the stronger the synergistic effect is; gamma > 1 shows antagonistic effect of the ginseng extract and the mint extract, and the larger the gamma value is, the larger the antagonistic effect is.
TABLE 3
As can be seen from table 3, the interaction coefficient of the whitening cosmetic additive of the present invention is less than 1, and the interaction coefficient value thereof may be 0.6 or less, and may even be 0.5 or less, so that the ginseng extract and the mint extract may exhibit excellent synergistic effects.
Application examples 1 to 8
The whitening and moisturizing cream is prepared according to the content (mass percentage) of each component in the formula of the whitening and moisturizing cream of application examples 1 to 8 in the following tables 4 to 5 according to the following production process steps. The production process comprises the following steps:
1. adding the phase A raw material into an emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃ to fully dissolve the phase A raw material;
2. adding phase B into water phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 deg.C for dissolving completely;
3. slowly pumping water phase substances in the B phase pot into an emulsifying pot, stirring, homogenizing, vacuum emulsifying, and keeping the temperature of the emulsifying pot at 80-85 deg.C;
4. cooling to 60 deg.C, adding phase C, homogenizing, and stirring;
5. cooling to 42 ℃, adding the phase D and stirring uniformly;
6. cooling to 37 ℃, discharging, and standing for 24 hours;
7. and (5) after the inspection is qualified, subpackaging, packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.
Note: in the process, the phase A, the phase B, the phase C and the phase D are respectively,
phase A: cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, caprylic/capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl palmitate, complex of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, behenyl alcohol, complex of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate, dimethicone, complex of sorbitan sesquioleate and isosteareth-20, tocopheryl acetate, methylparaben, propylparaben, butylated hydroxytoluene, perfume;
phase B: deionized water, glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, EDTA-2Na, xanthan gum, carbomer, potassium hydroxide, panthenol, colloidal oat flour and sodium hyaluronate;
and C phase: glycerol polyacrylate, ceramide 2;
phase D: ulva extract, ginseng extract, mint extract, phenoxyethanol and beta-glucan.
The ginseng extract and the mint extract used in the formula are whitening cosmetic additives;
cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, caprylic/capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl palmitate, and polydimethylsiloxane as oils;
a compound of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, a compound of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate, and a compound of sorbitan sesquioleate and isosteareth-20 are used as emulsifying agents;
tocopherol acetate and butylated hydroxytoluene are used as antioxidants;
glycerin, butanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate and glycerin polyacrylate are used as moisturizers;
colloidal oat flour, ulva extract, ceramide 2 and beta-glucan are used as skin conditioners;
EDTA-2Na is a chelating agent;
potassium hydroxide is used as a pH regulator;
xanthan gum, carbomer, polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer and behenyl alcohol are taken as thickening agents;
methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, and phenoxyethanol as antiseptic.
The essence is aromatic.
In the present invention, the complex of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, the manufacturer: the trade name of Saybolt Corp: MONTANOV 68;
the compound of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate is prepared by the following manufacturers: heda company trade mark: ARLACEL 165;
sorbitan sesquioleate and isosteareth-20 complex, manufacturer guava: BAREMUTM ML；
Ginseng extract, manufacturer: quzhou City exhibition-macro biotechnology Co., Ltd;
mint extract, manufacturer: quzhou City exhibition-macro Biotechnology Ltd.
Application of comparative examples 1 to 2
A moisturizing cream was prepared according to the contents (mass percentages) of the components in the moisturizing cream formulations of the comparative application examples 1 to 2 in the following table 5, and according to the same method as the application examples 1 to 8.
TABLE 4
TABLE 5
Whitening efficacy test
Method for testing skin melanin change rate: the content of melanin in the skin is determined by measuring the reflection of light of a specific wavelength on the skin of a human body. The emitter of the probe emits light with three wavelengths of 568nm, 660nm and 880nm to the skin surface, the receiver measures the light reflected by the skin and measures the amount of light absorbed by the skin, so as to obtain the change rate of skin melanin.
The test of the skin melanin change rate is carried out by using a pigment detector of CK company in Germany, wherein a test probe MX 18 of the skin melanin consists of a light source emitter and a light source receiver, and a spring is additionally arranged to keep the pressure on the skin constant during the detection. The measuring range of the probe is 0-999, and the higher the measuring value is, the higher the content of melanin in the skin can be indicated.
The number of the test subjects is 33, the test period is 4 weeks, the whitening moisturizing cream of the application examples 1-8 and the moisturizing cream of the comparative examples 1-2 are selected in the test, the whitening moisturizing cream is smeared on different areas of the inner side of the forearm every morning and evening, the reflection amount of the skin of the tested area before the test (Day1) and after the skin is used for 28 days (Day28) after the light with specific wavelength is respectively measured to determine the content of the melanin in the skin, and then the change rate of the melanin is characterized, and the result of the change rate of the specific melanin is shown in fig. 5.
As can be seen from fig. 5, the change rate of melanin is large, i.e., the melanin content is reduced, in the application examples 1 to 8 of the present application, and thus, the skin can be effectively whitened using the ginseng extract and the mint extract as whitening cosmetic additives.
In addition, in application examples 6 to 8 of the present application, the decrease in melanin content was less due to the higher content of the ginseng extract.
In the application comparative examples 1-2, when the ginseng extract or the mint extract is used as the whitening cosmetic additive, the change rate of the melanin content is small, the decrease of the melanin content is small, and the whitening effect is poor.
The above examples of the present invention are merely examples for clearly illustrating the present invention and are not intended to limit the embodiments of the present invention. Other variations and modifications will be apparent to persons skilled in the art in light of the above description. And are neither required nor exhaustive of all embodiments. Any modification, equivalent replacement, and improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the claims of the present invention.
Claims (6)
1. The whitening and moisturizing cream is characterized by comprising a whitening cosmetic additive, a humectant, a thickener, a pH regulator, grease, an emulsifier, a skin conditioner, an antioxidant and a chelating agent, wherein the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is 0.01-15% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing cream; the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20%; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-5%; the addition amount of the pH regulator is 0.01-1%; the addition amount of the grease is 10-30%; the addition amount of the emulsifier is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0-10%; the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0.01-2%; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0.01-1%;
wherein the whitening cosmetic additive is ginseng extract and mint extract;
the whitening cosmetic additive can inhibit tyrosinase activity;
the addition amount of the ginseng extract is 0.1-80% and the addition amount of the mint extract is 20-99.9% based on the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive;
the mass ratio of the ginseng extract to the mint extract is 1: 3-55;
the ginseng extract is purchased from Guanzhou City exhibition Biotech Co., Ltd; the mint extract was purchased from exquisitely Biotech, Inc. of Quzhou City.
2. The whitening and moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the moisturizer comprises one or a combination of two or more of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, panthenol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin polyacrylate, sodium hyaluronate, and trehalose; and/or
The oil comprises one or more of isopropyl myristate, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadecyldimethyl siloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, oleyl erucate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, shea butter, ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrogenated polydecene, cyclohexasiloxane, C20-24 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane, C13-14 isoparaffin, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, hydrogenated soybean oil, phytosterol and olive oil unsaponifiable matter.
3. The whitening and moisturizing cream of claim 1 or 2, wherein the emulsifier comprises one or a combination of two or more of a complex of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, a complex of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate, a complex of sorbitan sesquioleate and isosteareth-20, PEG-10 campesterol, laureth-7, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, glyceryl stearate, steareth-20, ceteth-20, polysorbate-60; and/or
The pH regulator comprises one or more of aminomethyl propanol, arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
4. The whitening and moisturizing cream of claim 1 or 2, wherein the thickener comprises one or a combination of two or more of carbomer, xanthan gum, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, behenyl alcohol, polyacrylamide, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; and/or
The antioxidant comprises one or more of vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, butylated hydroxytoluene, lycopene and ascorbic acid ethyl ether.
5. The whitening and moisturizing cream of claim 1 or 2, wherein the skin conditioner comprises one or a combination of two or more of crambe abyssinica seed oil, brown algae extract, palmitoyl oligopeptide, magnesium aspartate, ceramide 2, macroalgae extract, allantoin, hydrolyzed collagen, ulva extract, colloidal oat flour, beta-glucan, pansy extract, PEG-10 campesterol, chlorella fermentation product; and/or
The chelating agent comprises EDTA-2Na and/or EDTA-4 Na.
6. A method for preparing the whitening and moisturizing cream according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the method comprises the step of mixing the components of the whitening and moisturizing cream.
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| CN109846750A (en) * | 2019-03-29 | 2019-06-07 | 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司 | A kind of cosmetics of composition and its reparation skin of preparation |
| CN111110624A (en) * | 2020-01-10 | 2020-05-08 | 佐登妮丝（广州）美容化妆品有限公司 | Whitening composition |
| CN111012732A (en) * | 2020-01-10 | 2020-04-17 | 佐登妮丝（广州）美容化妆品有限公司 | Whitening cream |
| CN113233976B (en) * | 2021-05-08 | 2021-11-16 | 广州萃普生物科技有限公司 | Gallic acid and aminoacetic acid eutectic and whitening cream containing eutectic |
| CN113925788A (en) * | 2021-09-03 | 2022-01-14 | 太和康美(北京)中医研究院有限公司 | Sleep mask containing phytosterol and phytosterol ester and preparation method thereof |
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