Gradient-color knitted fabric and production method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of textiles, in particular to a knitted fabric with gradually changed colors and a production method thereof.
Background
The surface of the gradual change yarn dyed fabric presents a color gradual change effect, the surface presents soft and faint colors, the gradual change yarn dyed fabric is full of changeable and endless mysterious romantic breath, the color gradual change is utilized to bring the effects of fluctuation, rhythm, level and the like to the fabric surface, the magical charm of the color gradual change in nature and life can be presented, the gradual change yarn dyed fabric is more and more popular in the market at present, and the personalized requirements of different crowds are met. However, when the clothes are made of the fabric with gradually changed colors, particularly summer clothes, when the knitting density of the fabric is low, the light dyed part is easy to transmit light, and the skin color of underwear or a wearer is reflected, so that embarrassment is caused; when the knitting density of the cloth is high, although the light-colored part can not transmit light, the cloth has insufficient air permeability and is not comfortable to wear.
At present, in the textile field, the production of the gradient color fabric has several modes, firstly, yarns are dyed, and then the yarns are woven according to the designed flower arrangement; the method has complex wire arrangement and complex steps, and is not easy to produce more complex gradual change effect; secondly, yarns made of different materials are used for weaving according to the designed colored yarns arranged in the flower shape, and then dyeing is carried out, because the coloring degrees of the yarns made of different materials are different, a gradual change dyeing effect can be formed, but because the yarns made of different dark and light colors are made of different materials, the dark color part and the light color part of the woven cloth are large in material difference and have no integrity, the subsequent use of the cloth is influenced, and the method is not suitable for large-batch industrial production. Thirdly, the dye is printed on the grey cloth of the fabric in a printing mode to form a gradient effect, but the process control of the gradient color printing and dyeing process is complex, the printing and dyeing effect is rigid, the printing and dyeing depth is not easy to control, and the direct dyeing method is not natural. In addition, the printing and dyeing method has the disadvantages of complex process, long dyeing time, high water consumption, more production sewage and great pressure on the environment.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problems, a production method of the gradually-changed knitted fabric which is light-proof, comfortable to wear, simple in manufacturing process, short in dyeing time and less in environmental pollution needs to be provided. In order to achieve the aim, the inventor provides a production method of a knitted fabric with gradually changed colors, which comprises the following steps:
weaving: adopting yarns to weave knitted fabrics to be treated with different coil weaving densities;
dyeing: dyeing the knitted fabric to be treated.
Knitted fabrics measure the density of the fabric in terms of hundreds of stitch lengths, in mm or cm. From 100mm to 1000cm is possible. According to design requirements, the part of the loop needing to be dyed with light color is woven more tightly, and the part of the loop needing to be dyed with dark color is woven more loosely. In the production process of the knitted fabric, the arrangement sequence of the stitch density can be reasonably configured according to design requirements, if the colors similar to gradual change are formed, the stitch density needs to be arranged in a descending or ascending manner, and if the effect of obvious color contrast is designed, the arrangement manner of the stitch density needs to be arranged in an obvious contrast manner.
The density of the fabric directly influences the dyeing process, the knitted fabric with high density needs a penetrating agent during dyeing, and the dyeing effect can be ensured only by prolonging the dyeing time, so that over-light dyeing is avoided; the knitted fabric with low fabric density does not need or needs less penetrant, and the dyeing effect can be ensured by properly shortening the dyeing time, so that over-dyeing is avoided.
The prepared gradient-color knitted fabric has high knitting density of a light color part and is not easy to transmit light; the knitting density of the dark color part is small, the knitted fabric is ventilated and breathable, has personalized gradual change colors, and is suitable for various clothes, particularly clothes in summer.
Dyeing temperature: the reactive dye is 40-80 ℃, the disperse dye is 130 ℃, the acid dye and the cationic dye are at 90-115 ℃, and the using amount of the sodium hydrosulfite is 0.1-0.5%. Different dyes have different pH values, such as acid dye dyeing, and the dyeing pH value is 4-4.5; reactive dye 11.5.
Further, the dyeing method used is one-bath dyeing. The dyeing application of the same color but different shades of the fabric can be realized in a water bath at one time, the environment-friendly and energy-saving effect is achieved, the process controllability is strong, and the method is suitable for design and production of large-scale and small-batch products.
And (3) adding a dye into the dye bath pool water under the normal temperature condition, wherein the type of the dye is determined according to the type of the fiber raw material. The direct dye is suitable for dyeing cotton, hemp, silk and wool; the reactive dye is used for dyeing various textiles such as cotton, hemp, silk, wool, viscose, chinlon, vinylon and the like; the disperse dye is used for dyeing terylene; dyeing silk, wool and polyamide fibers by using acid dyes; the cationic dye is used for dyeing polyacrylonitrile fibers; vat dyes are used for dyeing cellulose fibers; the sulfur dye is used for dyeing cellulose fiber, sodium hydrosulfite is added, glacial acetic acid or caustic soda is added to adjust the pH value, and the dye solution is heated up at the heating rate of 1-1.5 ℃/min.
The dyeing time of the one-bath method is 5-15 minutes, and the dyeing bath ratio is 1: 8-10. The dyeing temperature is different from that of different woven fabrics, and the dyeing time is 1/4-2/3 of the normal dyeing time.
In the dyeing and finishing production process, the process different from the normal dyeing process mainly comprises two parts, namely, no or little penetrating agent is added, and the dyeing time is reduced. Wherein, the over-dyeing is avoided when the light color part with large compactness of the dyed fabric is not added with the penetrant or is added with little penetrant. The reduction of the dyeing time also avoids the over-dyeing when the light color part with large tightness of the dyed fabric is dyed, for example, the normal dyeing time needs 20-30 minutes, and when the multi-color fabric with large density difference of the fabric loops is dyed, only 1/4-2/3 time is needed, so that the fabric part with low tightness dyed in deep color can be fully dyed, and the fabric part with high tightness cannot be fully dyed to show the light color effect.
Further, the weaving process and the difference of the weaving density of the loops are achieved by adjusting the knitting equipment used in the weaving process.
Further, the knitting equipment comprises a flat knitting machine, a circular knitting machine and a warp knitting machine.
The flat knitting machine changes the weaving density of the loops by changing the stitch. For example, the default stitch of the flat knitting machine is 100, the adjustment of the stitch to 120 is to increase the length of hundreds of loops, the fabric density is decreased when the fabric density is reflected, the stitch is to decrease the length of hundreds of loops when the stitch is adjusted to 80, and the fabric density is increased when the stitch is reflected.
The circular knitting machine changes the weaving density of the loops by changing the yarn wheel and/or adjusting the depth of the pressing needle of the triangle. The circular knitting machine mainly adjusts the needle pressing depth, the yarn feeding wheel adjusts the yarn feeding amount, the yarn feeding amount is large, the length of a coil is longer, the fabric density is reduced, the needle pressing depth of a triangle is adjusted, the depth is shallower, the length of the coil is longer, and the density is larger.
The warp knitting machine performs the change of the weaving density of the coil by changing the crimp pulling density and the tension. The larger the warp knitting machine curl draw value is, the longer the one hundred coil lengths are, the lower the coil density is, and the larger the tension is, the shorter the one hundred coil lengths are, and the higher the coil density is.
Further, the method also comprises a pretreatment step, wherein after the weaving step and before the dyeing step, the pretreatment step adopts 0.1-1.5% of neutral deoiling refining agent and 0.1-2% of soda to carry out water bath on the woven fabric, and the bath ratio is 1: 12-17; and then the fabric is cleaned by hot water with the temperature of 70-80 ℃ for 10-30 min.
In the weaving process of the fabric, the fabric has tension, slurry, oil agent, impurities and the like which are not uniformly distributed on the fabric, so that the fabric needs to be pretreated before dyeing and removed. During pretreatment, the speed of the cloth lifting roller of the dye vat and the pressure of the nozzle can be properly adjusted at the same time so as to reduce the friction force of the grey cloth in the dye vat.
Further, the method also comprises a pre-setting step, wherein the pre-setting step is performed after the pre-treatment step and before the dyeing step, and the temperature of the pre-setting step is 110-170 ℃. The presetting temperature is adjusted according to the raw material types of the fabric, wherein the natural fiber is 110-.
Further, still include fixation softening treatment step, fixation softening treatment is after the dyeing step, fixation softening treatment step is: in a dyeing vat, firstly adding 0.1-1.5% of acetic acid into the dyed fabric for circulation, then adding 0.1-1.5% of color fixing agent, heating the liquid to 70-80 ℃, discharging liquid after running for 35-45min, then washing with hot water at 45-55 ℃, adding 0.1-1.5% of softening agent in bath, running for 20-30min, finally discharging water and taking out of the vat to obtain the fabric.
The inventor also provides a knitted fabric with gradually changed colors, and the knitted fabric is produced by adopting any one of the production methods.
Different from the prior art, the technical scheme adopts the yarn to weave the knitted fabric with different coil weaving densities; simple preparation process, short dyeing time and less environmental pollution. The prepared gradient-color knitted fabric has high knitting density of a light color part and is not easy to transmit light; the knitted fabric has the advantages of small knitting density of the dark color part, ventilation, air permeability, the same color system and different depths of the color on the knitted fabric, is rich in variation without disorder, accords with the aesthetic perception of modern people, and is suitable for various clothes, especially clothes in summer.
Detailed Description
In order to explain technical contents, structural features, and objects and effects of the technical means in detail, the following detailed description is given with reference to specific embodiments.
Example 1 production method of a gradient knitted Fabric (Cotton)
a) Weaving: 30 cotton compact spinning pure yarn is selected and woven by using a 24-needle flat knitting machine.
The method comprises the steps of weaving by a flat knitting machine, adjusting the stitch density to 120 when weaving the coil part dyed with the dark stripes, adjusting the stitch density to 100 when weaving the coil part dyed with the medium-depth stripes, adjusting the stitch density to 60 when weaving the coil part dyed with the light stripes, and maximizing the stitch density of the fabric in the light-color stripes.
b) Pretreatment, in the weaving process of the fabric, the fabric can have tension, slurry, oil agent, impurities and the like which are distributed unevenly, so that the fabric is removed by pretreatment, 1.5% of neutral deoiling refining agent and 2% of soda ash are selected for pretreatment, and the bath ratio is 1: washing with hot water at 15 and 75 deg.C for 30 min.
c) And (3) presetting, namely presetting the fabric after pretreatment, wherein the presetting temperature is 120 ℃, the setting vehicle speed is 20m/min, the overfeeding is controlled to be 5%, and the width of the door is 134 cm.
d) Dyeing treatment, wherein the dyeing treatment comprises the following steps: the cotton is dyed by using reactive dye, and the reactive dye with high reactivity and 1.5 percent of soda ash are selected during dyeing, wherein the bath ratio is 1: 10, dyeing at 50 ℃, draining liquid, then washing with cold water for two to three times, then adding 1.5g/L acetic acid for pickling at 50 ℃ for 5-10min, and finally draining liquid for soaping at 50 ℃ for 25 min.
e) And (3) fixing color and softening treatment, wherein 1.5% of color fixing agent, 1.5% of softening agent in bath and 1.5% of acetic acid are selected, acetic acid circulation is added during the color fixing and softening treatment, the color fixing agent is added, the temperature is raised to 75 ℃, liquid is discharged after the operation for 40min, then the fabric is washed with hot water at 50 ℃, the softening agent in bath is added for 25min, and finally the fabric is drained and taken out of the cylinder to obtain the gradient knitted fabric.
Example 2 production method of gradient knitted Fabric (Terylene)
a) Weaving: selecting 32 yarns of terylene pure spinning, and weaving by using a 28-needle circular knitting machine.
When the circular knitting machine is used for weaving, the yarn feeding wheel is adjusted by the circular knitting machine, and the larger the yarn feeding amount, the longer the length of the coil and the smaller the density; meanwhile, the depth of the needle can be adjusted, and the deeper the needle, the larger the coil is, and the smaller the density is. Conversely, the greater the density. Hundreds of coils are short in length of 100mm, the density of the fabric is high, the tighter the fabric is, the color of the fabric is easy to dye; 150mm is the middle; the length of 250mm is large, the density of the fabric is high, the looser the fabric is, and the deep color is easy to dye.
b) Pretreatment, in the weaving process of the fabric, the fabric can have part of unevenly distributed tension, oil agent, impurities and the like, so that the fabric is removed by pretreatment, 0.1% of neutral deoiling refining agent and 0.1% of soda are selected for pretreatment, and the bath ratio is 1: 17, washing with hot water at 70 ℃ for 30 min.
c) Presetting, namely presetting the fabric after pretreatment, wherein the presetting temperature is about 150 ℃, the setting vehicle speed is 20m/min, the overfeeding is controlled to be 5%, and the width of the door is 140 cm.
d) Dyeing treatment, wherein the dyeing treatment comprises the following steps: dyeing the terylene by using fractional dye, adding 0.1-1.5% of sodium hydrosulfite during dyeing, wherein the bath ratio is 1:8-10, dyeing at the temperature of 120-
e) And (3) fixing color and softening treatment, wherein 1.0% of color fixing agent, 1.0% of softening agent in bath and 1.0% of acetic acid are selected, acetic acid circulation is added during the color fixing and softening treatment, then the color fixing agent is added, the temperature is raised to 80 ℃, liquid is discharged after 45min of operation, then hot water washing is carried out at 45 ℃, the softening agent in bath is added for 20min of operation, and finally, water is drained and discharged out of the cylinder to obtain the gradient knitted fabric.
Example 3 production method of gradient knitted Fabric (Nylon)
a) Weaving:
the warp knitting machine performs the change of the weaving density of the coil by changing the crimp pulling density and the tension. The winding drawing speed is changed to normally wind at 10cm per minute, the winding speed is changed to 7cm and 13cm after adjustment, the density of the fabric is increased to hundreds of coil lengths of 300mm when the 7cm winding speed is woven in 1 minute, the density of the fabric is decreased to hundreds of coil lengths of 185mm when the 13cm winding speed is woven in 1 minute, and the density of the fabric is decreased to 255mm when the 10cm winding speed is woven in 1 minute.
And adjusting the tension, wherein the normal weaving tension is 1.2 times, the adjustment tensions are 1.0 time and 1.5 time, and each weaving time is 1 minute, so that the length of the part with the tension of 1.0 time is 280mm, the length of the hundreds of coils with the tension of 1.5 times is 180mm, and the length of the hundreds of coils with the tension of 1.2 times is 230 mm. The greater the fabric density, the less easily it is colored, i.e. the lighter the color.
b) Pretreatment, in the weaving process of the fabric, the fabric can have part of unevenly distributed tension, oil agent, impurities and the like, so that the fabric is removed by pretreatment, 1% of neutral deoiling refining agent and 1% of soda ash are selected for pretreatment, and the bath ratio is 1: 17, washing with hot water at 80 ℃ for 20 min.
c) And (3) presetting, namely presetting the fabric after pretreatment, wherein the presetting temperature is 150 ℃, the setting vehicle speed is 20m/min, the overfeeding is controlled to be 5%, and the width of the door is 140 cm.
d) Dyeing treatment, wherein the dyeing treatment comprises the following steps: the chinlon is dyed by acid dye, wherein the acid dye, 1% of acid leveling agent and 1.5% of acid diluting agent are selected during dyeing, and the bath ratio is 1: 10, dyeing temperature is 85-110 ℃, dyeing time is 10min, and after dyeing, discharging liquid and then hot washing.
e) And (3) fixing color and softening treatment, wherein 0.1% of color fixing agent, 0.1% of softening agent in bath and 0.1% of acetic acid are selected, acetic acid circulation is added during the color fixing and softening treatment, the color fixing agent is added, the temperature is raised to 70 ℃, liquid is discharged after 45min of operation, then hot water washing is carried out at 55 ℃, the softening agent in bath is added for 30min of operation, and finally, water is drained and discharged out of the cylinder to obtain the gradient knitted fabric.
It is noted that, herein, relational terms such as first and second, and the like may be used solely to distinguish one entity or action from another entity or action without necessarily requiring or implying any actual such relationship or order between such entities or actions. Also, the terms "comprises," "comprising," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a process, method, article, or terminal that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article, or terminal. Without further limitation, an element defined by the phrases "comprising … …" or "comprising … …" does not exclude the presence of additional elements in a process, method, article, or terminal that comprises the element. Further, herein, "greater than," "less than," "more than," and the like are understood to exclude the present numbers; the terms "above", "below", "within" and the like are to be understood as including the number.
It should be noted that, although the above embodiments have been described herein, the invention is not limited thereto. Therefore, based on the innovative concepts of the present invention, the technical solutions of the present invention can be directly or indirectly applied to other related technical fields by making changes and modifications to the embodiments described herein or by using equivalent structures or equivalent processes performed in the present specification, and are included in the scope of the present invention.