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CN108143650A - A kind of anti-aging Essence and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

A kind of anti-aging Essence and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN108143650A
CN108143650A CN201810180059.1A CN201810180059A CN108143650A CN 108143650 A CN108143650 A CN 108143650A CN 201810180059 A CN201810180059 A CN 201810180059A CN 108143650 A CN108143650 A CN 108143650A
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emulsifier
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段小群
卢曦
林世源
钟明利
陈世豪
石文涛
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Guilin Medical University
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/068Microemulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

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  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention discloses a kind of anti-aging Essence and preparation method thereof, and the weight percent of each component is in the Essence:Aqueous soluble ginseng's saponin(e accounts for 0.3% 15%, and chlorella extract accounts for 0.1% 10%, and oil phase accounts for 40% 80%, and emulsifier accounts for 5% 25%, and assistant for emulsifying agent accounts for 4% 20%, and water phase accounts for 10% 20%, according to the market demand, can add in 0.1% 1.0% volatile oil or essential oils.During preparation, Aqueous soluble ginseng's saponin(e and chlorella extract are dissolved in water, form water phase;Oil phase and emulsifier, assistant for emulsifying agent are uniformly mixed, form oil phase;Water phase is slowly added in the oil phase of high-speed stirred, it is fully emulsified, form microemulsion;Or after being stirred oil phase and water phase and forming colostrum, handled using high-pressure homogeneous equipment, form microemulsion;According to the market demand, suitable essential oil or plant volatile oil are added in, is uniformly mixed up to anti-aging essence liquid product.The raw material sources of the present invention enrich, and preparation method is simple, and operability is strong, easily realizes industrialized production.

Description

一种抗衰老精华液及其制备方法A kind of anti-aging essence and preparation method thereof

技术领域technical field

本发明涉及一种抗衰老精华液及其制备方法,属于化妆品加工技术领域。The invention relates to an anti-aging essence and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the technical field of cosmetic processing.

背景技术Background technique

皮肤衰老是伴随年龄增长而出现的一种必然现象,但是现代社会生活节奏加快、加班熬夜、经常使用电脑等会加快皮肤的老化进程。随着社会经济水平的不断提高以及人们对科学的深入研究,皮肤抗衰老研究已成为当今医学、生物学领域研究的热点之一。Skin aging is an inevitable phenomenon that occurs with age, but the accelerated pace of life in modern society, working overtime and staying up late, frequent use of computers, etc. will accelerate the aging process of the skin. With the continuous improvement of social and economic level and people's in-depth research on science, skin anti-aging research has become one of the hot spots in the fields of medicine and biology.

目前市场上抗衰老化妆品种类繁多,如保湿类、细胞修复类以及清除自由基类;而每款化妆品由于配方以及生产技术的不同,药物经皮渗透到皮肤吸收的情况不一,其抗衰老功效存在较大差异,难于满足消费者需求。At present, there are many kinds of anti-aging cosmetics on the market, such as moisturizing, cell repairing, and free radical scavenging; and each cosmetic has different formulations and production techniques, and the drug permeation into the skin is different, and its anti-aging effect There are large differences and it is difficult to meet the needs of consumers.

人体皮肤一般由表皮、真皮、皮下组织三部分组成,还有汗腺、皮质囊、毛囊等附属器,其中表皮的角质层是影响产品经皮吸收的主要屏障。普通的化妆品由于工艺技术条件的限制,难于有效透过角质层,延缓皮肤衰老的效果有限。Human skin is generally composed of epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue, as well as appendages such as sweat glands, cortical follicles, and hair follicles. The stratum corneum of the epidermis is the main barrier that affects the percutaneous absorption of products. Ordinary cosmetics are difficult to effectively penetrate the stratum corneum due to the limitation of technological conditions, and the effect of delaying skin aging is limited.

人参皂苷(Ginsenoside)是一种固醇类化合物,三萜皂苷,除了药用,也常用于化妆品的。人参皂苷是五加科植物人参中的主要活性成分,能够促进皮下毛细血管的血液循环,增加皮肤营养供给,并具有良好防紫外线损伤作用,延缓皮肤衰老。而从分子层面来看,人参皂苷主要通过四种途径实现其抗衰老功能:通过提高机体内SOD、CAT、GSH2Px活性, 诱导SOD、CAT基因表达,减少LPO、MDA含量等实现其抗衰老作用;通过促进神经递质释放、增加神经递质传递者(Ach)含量、促进NBM神经元TrkBmRNA表达、阻止神经原产生过量硝酸盐等实现其抗衰老功能;通过免疫系统在细胞和分子水平上的适度调节延缓衰老;人参皂苷亦能通过影响细胞周期调控因子、衰老基因表达,延长端粒长度、增强端粒酶活性等来实现其抗衰老功能。Ginsenoside (Ginsenoside) is a sterol compound, triterpene saponin, in addition to medicinal, it is also commonly used in cosmetics. Ginsenoside is the main active ingredient in Araliaceae plant ginseng, which can promote the blood circulation of subcutaneous capillaries, increase skin nutrition supply, and has good anti-ultraviolet damage effect, delaying skin aging. From a molecular perspective, ginsenosides mainly achieve its anti-aging function through four ways: by increasing the activity of SOD, CAT, and GSH2Px in the body, inducing the expression of SOD and CAT genes, and reducing the content of LPO and MDA to achieve its anti-aging effect; It realizes its anti-aging function by promoting the release of neurotransmitters, increasing the content of neurotransmitter transmitters (Ach), promoting the expression of TrkBmRNA in NBM neurons, and preventing excessive nitrate production by neurons; through the moderate regulation of the immune system at the cellular and molecular levels Regulate and delay aging; Ginsenosides can also achieve its anti-aging function by affecting cell cycle regulatory factors, aging gene expression, extending telomere length, and enhancing telomerase activity.

小球藻是一种优质的绿色营养食品,其具有高蛋白、低脂肪、低糖、低热量以及维生素、矿物质元素含量丰富的优点。小球藻提取物含有丰富类胡萝卜素,用于化妆品中可以保护皮肤免受紫外线伤害;并且含有赖氨酸、脯氨酸、甘氨酸和丙氨酸等大量氨基酸成分,具有重构皮肤和使皮肤表面光滑的作用。另外,小球藻提取物可以预防皮肤胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白分解,促进更多胶原蛋白合成。Chlorella is a high-quality green nutritious food, which has the advantages of high protein, low fat, low sugar, low calorie and rich in vitamins and mineral elements. Chlorella extract is rich in carotenoids, which can protect the skin from ultraviolet rays when used in cosmetics; and contains a large number of amino acids such as lysine, proline, glycine and alanine, which have the ability to restructure the skin and make the skin Smooth surface effect. Plus, chlorella extract prevents the breakdown of skin collagen and elastin and promotes more collagen synthesis.

本发明利用上述原料的优点,采用水溶性人参皂苷提取物和小球藻提取物研制成一种抵抗皮肤衰老的精华液,以满足消费者的需求。The invention utilizes the advantages of the above-mentioned raw materials to develop an anti-aging skin essence by using water-soluble ginsenoside extracts and chlorella extracts to meet the needs of consumers.

发明内容Contents of the invention

本发明的目的在于提供一种含水溶性人参皂苷和小球藻提取物的抗衰老精华液及其制备方法。The object of the present invention is to provide an anti-aging essence containing water-soluble ginsenoside and chlorella extract and a preparation method thereof.

本发明以水溶性人参皂苷和小球藻提取物为原料,采用先进的纳米制剂技术,开发出一种纯天然的抗衰老精华液,其能有效透过角质层,长期使用可延缓皮肤衰老。The invention uses water-soluble ginsenosides and chlorella extracts as raw materials and adopts advanced nano-preparation technology to develop a pure natural anti-aging essence, which can effectively penetrate the stratum corneum and delay skin aging after long-term use.

本发明一种抗衰老精华液,是由水溶性人参皂苷、小球藻提取物、油相、水相、乳化剂、助乳化剂等组成;产品中各组分的质量百分比为:水溶性人参皂苷占0.3%-15%,小球藻提取物占0.1%-10%,油相占40%-80%,乳化剂占5%-25%,助乳化剂占4%-20%,水相占10%-20%,根据市场需求,可加入0.1%-1.0%挥发油或者精油。An anti-aging essence of the present invention is composed of water-soluble ginsenoside, chlorella extract, oil phase, water phase, emulsifier, co-emulsifier, etc.; the mass percentage of each component in the product is: water-soluble ginseng Saponin accounts for 0.3%-15%, chlorella extract accounts for 0.1%-10%, oil phase accounts for 40%-80%, emulsifier accounts for 5%-25%, co-emulsifier accounts for 4%-20%, water phase It accounts for 10%-20%. According to market demand, 0.1%-1.0% volatile oil or essential oil can be added.

所述的乳化剂与助乳化剂的重量比值(Km值)为0.7~5、较优选为1.1~3.5、更优选为1.5~2.5。The weight ratio (Km value) of the emulsifier to the co-emulsifier is 0.7-5, more preferably 1.1-3.5, more preferably 1.5-2.5.

所述的油相为肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、辛癸酸甘油酯、月桂酸异丙酯、花生油、大豆油、油酸、单醋酸甘油酯、三醋酸甘油酯、异硬脂酰异硬酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、油酸乙酯、丁酸乙酯、辛酸乙酯等中的一种或者多种的混合物。The oil phase is isopropyl myristate, glyceryl caprylate, isopropyl laurate, peanut oil, soybean oil, oleic acid, glyceryl monoacetate, glyceryl triacetate, isostearyl isostearyl , Isopropyl Palmitate, Ethyl Oleate, Ethyl Butyrate, Ethyl Octanoate, etc. or a mixture of more.

所述的油相优选肉豆蔻酸异丙酯,其具有一定促渗透作用,常用于化妆品的制备,且可以形成稳定的微乳,载水量较高。The oil phase is preferably isopropyl myristate, which has a certain penetration-promoting effect, is often used in the preparation of cosmetics, and can form a stable microemulsion with a high water-carrying capacity.

所述乳化剂为蛋黄卵磷脂、大豆卵磷脂、聚乙二醇40氢化蓖麻油、吐温-80、吐温-20、司盘-20、司盘-80、二辛基硫代琥珀酸钠、聚氧乙烯-8-辛酸甘油等中的一种或者多种的混合物。The emulsifier is egg yolk lecithin, soybean lecithin, polyethylene glycol 40 hydrogenated castor oil, Tween-80, Tween-20, Span-20, Span-80, sodium dioctyl thiosuccinate , polyoxyethylene-8-caprylic glycerin, etc., or a mixture of more than one.

所述助乳化剂为无水乙醇、丙二醇、丙三醇、正丁醇、1,2-辛二醇等中的一种或者多种的混合物。The co-emulsifier is one or a mixture of absolute ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, n-butanol, 1,2-octanediol and the like.

所述的助乳化剂优选无水乙醇,其粘度小,产品流动性较好,且安全无毒。The preferred dehydrated alcohol as the co-emulsifier has low viscosity, good fluidity of the product, and is safe and non-toxic.

所述的抗衰老精华液,可以加入少量挥发油或者精油,包括玫瑰精油、茉莉精油、迷迭香精油以及桂花挥发油等中的一种或者多种的混合物。The anti-aging essence can add a small amount of volatile oil or essential oil, including one or more mixtures of rose essential oil, jasmine essential oil, rosemary essential oil and osmanthus essential oil.

本发明抗衰老精华液, 其制备方法为:通过高速乳匀或者高压均质等制剂方法制备成油包水型微乳。具体步骤为:The preparation method of the anti-aging essence of the present invention is: preparing a water-in-oil microemulsion by high-speed homogenization or high-pressure homogenization. The specific steps are:

(1)将水溶性人参皂苷和小球藻提取物溶解在水中,形成水相;(1) Dissolving water-soluble ginsenosides and chlorella extract in water to form an aqueous phase;

(2)将油相和乳化剂、助乳化剂混合均匀,形成油相;(2) Mix the oil phase with the emulsifier and co-emulsifier evenly to form the oil phase;

(3)在高速搅拌的油相中缓慢加入水相,充分乳化,形成微乳液;或者将油相和水相搅拌形成初乳后,使用高压均质设备进行处理,形成微乳液;(3) Slowly add the water phase to the high-speed stirring oil phase to fully emulsify to form a microemulsion; or stir the oil phase and water phase to form colostrum, and use high-pressure homogenization equipment to process to form a microemulsion;

(4)根据市场需求,在微乳液中加入挥发油或者精油,混合均匀,即得抗衰老精华液产品。(4) According to market demand, add volatile oil or essential oil to the microemulsion, mix well, and get the anti-aging essence product.

制备时,所有的操作均在洁净无菌环境下进行,以保证产品质量。During preparation, all operations are carried out in a clean and sterile environment to ensure product quality.

微乳是一种较有研发前景的新型纳米级载体系统,是由油相、乳化剂以及水相搅拌制成初乳,通过高速乳匀或者高压均质等制剂手段将含有活性成分的油滴制备成粒径小于100 nm的水平,可以提高通透浓度梯度、增加角质层双分子层流动性,从而增强经皮渗透和吸收性能,减少活性成分的使用量,常用于药品、化妆品行业中的产品开发。Microemulsion is a new type of nano-scale carrier system with relatively promising research and development prospects. It is made of colostrum by stirring the oil phase, emulsifier and water phase. Prepared with a particle size of less than 100 nm, it can increase the penetration concentration gradient and increase the fluidity of the stratum corneum bilayer, thereby enhancing percutaneous penetration and absorption performance, and reducing the amount of active ingredients used. It is often used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics industries. product development.

为了更好发挥活性成分人参皂苷的皮肤抗衰老效果,本发明将其溶解在水相中,再通过高速乳匀或者高压均质等制剂方法制备成油包水型微乳的精华液,可以促进人参皂苷和小球藻提取物成分的经皮渗透吸收,大大提高皮肤的抗衰老效果;本发明的原料来源丰富,取材为纯天然提取物,无添加其他化学增效剂,安全性良好,长期使用可延缓皮肤衰老。本发明制备方法简单,可操作性强,易实现工业化生产。In order to give full play to the skin anti-aging effect of the active ingredient ginsenoside, the present invention dissolves it in the water phase, and then prepares the essence of the water-in-oil microemulsion through preparation methods such as high-speed milk homogenization or high-pressure homogenization, which can promote The transdermal penetration and absorption of ginsenoside and chlorella extract components can greatly improve the anti-aging effect of the skin; the raw material source of the present invention is abundant, and the materials are pure natural extracts, without adding other chemical synergists, with good safety and long-term Use can delay skin aging. The preparation method of the invention is simple, has strong operability, and is easy to realize industrialized production.

具体实施方式Detailed ways

下面结合实施例对本发明内容作进一步的说明,但不是对本发明的限定。The content of the present invention will be further described below in conjunction with the examples, but the present invention is not limited.

实施例1Example 1

制备抗衰老精华液:称取蛋黄卵磷脂3.0g,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯10g,加入无水乙醇3.0ml,在磁力搅拌器上以100转每分钟的速度搅拌溶解,作为油相;称取人参皂苷1.5g,小球藻提取物0.5g,加3.5ml水溶解后形成水相;在高速分散机以8000转每分钟的快速剪切下,将上述水相加入油相中,继续搅拌乳化10 min;取出,加入0.2g的玫瑰精油,混合均匀,即得淡黄色透明精华液。经激光粒度仪测定,该产品平均粒径为17.6nm。Preparation of anti-aging essence: Weigh 3.0g of egg yolk lecithin, 10g of isopropyl myristate, add 3.0ml of absolute ethanol, stir and dissolve on a magnetic stirrer at a speed of 100 rpm, as the oil phase; weigh Ginsenoside 1.5g, chlorella extract 0.5g, add 3.5ml of water to dissolve and form water phase; under the high-speed disperser with 8000 rpm fast shear, add the above water phase to the oil phase, continue to stir and emulsify 10 min; take it out, add 0.2g of rose essential oil, mix evenly, and obtain a light yellow transparent essence. The average particle size of the product is 17.6nm as measured by a laser particle size analyzer.

实施例2Example 2

制备抗衰老精华液:称取大豆卵磷脂5.3g,辛癸酸甘油酯10.8g,加入无水乙醇3ml,在磁力搅拌器上以100转每分钟的速度搅拌溶解,作为油相;称取人参皂苷2.0g,小球藻提取物0.6g,加水溶解后形成水相;在高速分散机以12000转每分钟的快速剪切下,将上述水相加入油相中,继续搅拌乳化13 min;取出,加入0.2g的桂花挥发油,混合均匀,即得淡黄色透明精华液。经激光粒度仪测定,该产品平均粒径为14.9nm。Preparation of anti-aging essence: Weigh 5.3g of soybean lecithin, 10.8g of caprylic glyceride, add 3ml of absolute ethanol, stir and dissolve at a speed of 100 rpm on a magnetic stirrer, and use it as the oil phase; weigh ginseng Saponin 2.0g, chlorella extract 0.6g, add water to dissolve and form a water phase; add the above water phase to the oil phase under the rapid shear of 12000 rpm in a high-speed disperser, continue to stir and emulsify for 13 min; take out , add 0.2g of sweet-scented osmanthus volatile oil, mix evenly, and obtain light yellow transparent essence. As measured by a laser particle size analyzer, the average particle size of the product is 14.9nm.

实施例3Example 3

制备抗衰老精华液:称取聚乙二醇40氢化蓖麻油8.6g,月桂酸异丙酯20.1g,加入1,2-丙二醇4.3ml,在磁力搅拌器上以100转每分钟的速度搅拌溶解,作为油相; 称取人参皂苷2.0g,小球藻提取物1.5g,加水溶解后形成水相;将上述水相加入油相中,搅拌混合形成初乳;取出,经高压均质处理3遍,再加入0.3g的迷迭香精油,混合均匀,即得淡黄色透明精华液。经激光粒度仪测定,该产品平均粒径为10.6nm。Preparation of anti-aging essence: Weigh 8.6g of polyethylene glycol 40 hydrogenated castor oil, 20.1g of isopropyl laurate, add 4.3ml of 1,2-propanediol, stir and dissolve on a magnetic stirrer at a speed of 100 rpm , as the oil phase; weigh 2.0 g of ginsenosides and 1.5 g of chlorella extract, add water to dissolve and form a water phase; add the above water phase to the oil phase, stir and mix to form colostrum; take it out, and process it through high-pressure homogenization for 3 Then add 0.3g of rosemary essential oil and mix well to get a light yellow transparent essence. The average particle size of the product is 10.6nm as measured by a laser particle size analyzer.

Claims (8)

1. a kind of anti-aging Essence, it is characterised in that:The weight percent of each component is in product:Aqueous soluble ginseng's saponin(e 0.3%-15% is accounted for, chlorella extract accounts for 0.1%-10%, and oil phase accounts for 40%-80%, and emulsifier accounts for 5%-25%, and assistant for emulsifying agent accounts for 4%- 20%, water phase accounts for 10%-20%, according to the market demand, can add in 0.1%-1.0% volatile oil or essential oil.
2. the anti-aging Essence according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:The emulsifier and the weight of assistant for emulsifying agent It is 0.7~5 to measure ratio.
3. the anti-aging Essence according to claim 2, it is characterised in that:The emulsifier and the weight of assistant for emulsifying agent It is 1.5~2.5 to measure ratio.
4. the anti-aging Essence according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:The oil phase is isopropyl myristate, pungent Glycerol decanoate, isopropyl laurate, peanut oil, soybean oil, oleic acid, single triacetin, triacetyl glycerine, isostearoyl The mixture of one or more of different hard ester, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl oleate, ethyl butyrate, ethyl caprilate.
5. the anti-aging Essence according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:The emulsifier is egg yolk lecithin, soybean Lecithin, 40 rilanit special of polyethylene glycol, Tween-80, Tween-20, Arlacel-20, Arlacel-80, dioctylthio succinic acid The mixture of one or more of sodium, polyoxyethylene -8- octanoic acid glycerine.
6. the anti-aging Essence according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:The assistant for emulsifying agent is absolute ethyl alcohol, the third two One or more mixtures in alcohol, glycerine, n-butanol, 1,2- ethohexadiols.
7. the anti-aging Essence according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:The volatile oil or essential oil are rhodamine toner The mixture of one or more of oil, refined jasmine oil, Rosemary Oil and sweet osmanthus volatile oil.
8. according to the preparation method of claim 1-7 any one of them anti-aging Essences, which is characterized in that including walking as follows Suddenly:
(1)Aqueous soluble ginseng's saponin(e and chlorella extract are dissolved in water, form water phase;
(2)Oil phase and emulsifier, assistant for emulsifying agent are uniformly mixed, form oil phase;
(3)Water phase is slowly added in the oil phase of high-speed stirred, it is fully emulsified, form microemulsion;Or oil phase and water phase are stirred It mixes after forming colostrum, is handled using high-pressure homogeneous equipment, form microemulsion;
(4)According to the market demand, volatile oil or essential oil are added in microemulsion, is uniformly mixed and is produced to get anti-aging Essence Product.
CN201810180059.1A 2018-03-05 2018-03-05 A kind of anti-aging Essence and preparation method thereof Withdrawn CN108143650A (en)

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Application publication date: 20180612