Detailed Description
The warp knitted fabric 10 of the present embodiment is knitted by a single jacquard double raschel machine which is one type of warp knitting machine. The main parts of a single jacquard double raschel machine are represented in figure 1. The warp knitting machine is a double raschel machine and is provided with a front knitting needle row FN and a rear knitting needle row BN. The front needle row FN and the rear needle row BN are each constituted by a plurality of needles arranged in 1 row in the width direction of the warp knitting machine.
The warp knitting machine is a single jacquard type warp knitting machine and has 1 pair of split jacquard bars. The 1 pair of divided jacquard comb nodes are, as shown in fig. 1, 2 half-sized (japanese: ゲージ) jacquard comb nodes (half-sized jacquard comb nodes, which are jacquard comb nodes having half sets of jacquard guide needles) JB4 and JB5 form a pair, and 2 half-sized jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 (i.e., 1 pair of divided jacquard comb nodes) form a full-sized (jacquard guide needles having full sets of jacquard guide needles) as a whole.
Jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 perform movements used to weave the basic organization, respectively. Subsequently, the plurality of jacquard guide needles provided in the jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 perform a motion for knitting a basic structure. Not only the movement for knitting the basic structure is performed, but also the jacquard thread-guide needles can be displaced independently by the action of the jacquard mechanism. For this purpose, the jacquard thread guides can be moved differently. When the jacquard mechanism works, the jacquard guide needle is displaced to the left by 1G distance (the distance between every two adjacent 2 knitting needles) from the position in the knitting of the basic structure. The jacquard mechanism may be activated only in the upper loop, only in the lower loop or both in the upper and lower loops.
The warp knitting machine is provided with guide bars respectively in front and rear of 1 pair of split jacquard bars. Fig. 1 shows an example of a known warp knitting machine. The warp knitting machine of fig. 1 includes 3 guide bars before 1 pair of split jacquard bars. The 3 guide comb segments are a guide comb segment GB1, a guide comb segment GB2 and a guide comb segment GB3 in sequence from the front. The warp knitting machine of fig. 1 includes 1 guide bar GB6 after 1 pair of split jacquard bars. Guide comb segments GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB6 perform movements for knitting a knitted structure, respectively. Accordingly, all the guide pins provided in the guide comb sections GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB6 move in the same manner.
Also, a warp knitting machine is known which has 2 guide bars respectively provided in front and rear of 1 pair of split jacquard bars.
In knitting of the warp knitted fabric 10 using the warp knitting machine of fig. 1, it is not necessary to use all of the guide comb sections GB1, GB2, GB3 before the split jacquard comb section. In the following description, in 3 guide bars before the split jacquard bar, guide bar GB2 and guide bar GB3 are used for knitting.
In knitting of the warp knitted fabric 10 of the present embodiment, the guide comb-pitch GB2 and the guide comb-pitch GB3 are used for knitting the front base fabric 1, the guide comb-pitch GB6 is used for knitting the rear base fabric 2, and the jacquard comb-pitch JB4 and the jacquard comb-pitch JB5 are used for connecting the front base fabric 1 and the rear base fabric 2. For this purpose, the yarn for forming the front base fabric 1 is supplied to the guide comb GB2 and the guide comb GB3, the yarn for forming the rear base fabric 2 is supplied to the guide comb GB6, and the yarn for connecting the front base fabric 1 and the rear base fabric 2 as the connecting yarn 4 is supplied to the jacquard comb j 4 and the jacquard comb JB 5.
The color of the yarn supplied to jacquard comb knuckles JB4 and JB5 is different from the color of the yarn supplied to guide comb knuckles GB2, GB3 and GB 6. Thereby, a jacquard pattern resulting from the difference in the color of the yarn is formed on the back side base fabric 2 of the warp knit fabric 10. As an example, here, a yarn of a certain color is supplied to jacquard comb knuckles JB4, JB5, and a yarn of another color is supplied to guide comb knuckles GB2, GB3, GB 6.
Fig. 2 shows an example of the knitting structure of the present embodiment. In fig. 2, F denotes a knitted loop formed by the front needle row FN, and B denotes a knitted loop formed by the rear needle row BN. Fig. 2 shows a braided structure formed of guide comb segments GB2, GB3, and GB 6. The knitting structure of the guide comb section GB2 is composed of 0-0/0-0/1-1/1-1// repeating units. The knitting structure of the guide comb section GB3 is composed of 1-0/0-0/2-3/3-3// repeating units. The knitting structure of the guide comb section GB6 is composed of 0-0/2-3/3-3/1-0// repeating units.
Fig. 2 shows a basic structure formed of jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5, that is, a knitted structure formed of jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 when the jacquard mechanism is not operated. The knitting tissue formed by jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 is composed of 0-0/1-0/0-0/0-0// repeating unit.
In fig. 3, the basic structure formed by jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 is shown by a broken line, and an example of the knitted structure formed by jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 when the jacquard mechanism is operated is shown by a solid line. In the figure, H denotes that the jacquard mechanism is not operated. In this case, the jacquard thread-guide needles are in the same position as when knitting the basic structure. T in the figure indicates that the jacquard mechanism is activated. In this case, the jacquard thread-guide needle is displaced to the left from the position where the basic structure is knitted. T and H are respectively described in the upper and lower stages of 1 needle, the upper stage T or H indicates that the jacquard mechanism is made to act or made to not act when overlapped, and the lower stage T or H indicates that the jacquard mechanism is made to act or made to not act when under-wrapped.
Fig. 3(a) shows an example of a knitting structure in a case where jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 overlap with front knitted needle row FN by the action of the jacquard mechanism. The braided structure of FIG. 3(a) consists of 0-1/1-1/1-0/0-0// repeating units. As shown in this example, when jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 overlap front knitting needle row FN, the yarn (jacquard yarn) supplied from jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 is knitted into front base fabric 1. The jacquard yarn is exposed on the front surface (front side surface) of the front base fabric 1 side of the warp knitted fabric 10.
Fig. 3(b) shows an example of a knitting structure in a case where jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 overlap rear knitting line BN by the operation of the jacquard mechanism. The braided structure of FIG. 3(b) is composed of repeating units of 1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1// g. As shown in this example, when jacquard comb knuckles JB4, JB5 overlap rear knit line BN, the jacquard yarn is woven into rear side scrim 2. Further, a jacquard yarn is exposed on the surface (back surface 3) of the warp knitted fabric 10 on the back side fabric 2 side. As shown in the example of fig. 2 and 3(b), it is preferable that the overlapping direction of jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 with respect to rear needle row BN is opposite to the overlapping direction of guide comb node GB6 for knitting of rear side group fabric 2 with respect to rear needle row BN. In other words, in the needle holes of the rear base fabric 2, it is preferable that the jacquard yarn and the yarn forming the rear base fabric 2 are entangled in opposite directions.
In addition, when the jacquard yarn is interwoven with the front side base fabric 1 and the rear side base fabric 2, the jacquard yarn functions as a connecting yarn 4 connecting the front side base fabric 1 and the rear side base fabric 2.
Fig. 4 shows an example of the back surface 3 of the warp knitted fabric 10 of the present embodiment. This warp knitted fabric 10 is a knitted fabric in which a vamp portion 11 for an upper and a peripheral portion 12 thereof are integrally knitted. The upper surface portion 11 has an appearance including a plain cloth portion 13, a toe pattern portion 14, a heel pattern portion 15, and an upper pattern portion 16. The plain cloth portion 13 is a portion exposed to the rear side surface 3 by jacquard yarn being woven into the rear side base cloth 2. The plain cloth portion 13 is therefore colored with jacquard yarn as a whole. Then, in the toe pattern portion 14 and the heel pattern portions 15 on both right and left sides of the warp knitted fabric 10, a jacquard yarn is knitted into the front base fabric 1. Therefore, the jacquard yarn is not present on the rear surface 3 in the toe pattern portion 14 and the heel pattern portion 15, and the entire toe pattern portion 14 and the entire heel pattern portion 15 are colored with the yarn forming the rear base fabric 2 (i.e., the yarn supplied from the guide comb GB 6). In the upper pattern portion 16 of the warp knitted fabric 10, a jacquard yarn is alternately knitted into the front base fabric 1 and the rear base fabric 2. For this reason, the upper pattern portion 16 becomes a portion in which the color of the jacquard yarn is mixed with the color of the yarn forming the rear side base fabric 2. As described above, a colored large pattern is formed on the back surface 3 of the warp knit fabric 10. The pattern formed by weaving the jacquard yarn into the front base fabric 1 and the rear base fabric 2 is referred to as a jacquard pattern.
In addition, like the plain cloth portion 13, the toe pattern portion 14, and the left and right heel pattern portions 15, the front base cloth 1 and the rear base cloth 2 are not connected to each other in a region where the jacquard yarn is woven into only one of the front base cloth 1 and the rear base cloth 2 over a wide range. Such an unconnected area is a non-connected area. When the width of the non-bonded region is not desired to be large, or when the design is considered, a partial bonded region in which the jacquard yarn is bonded to the front base fabric 1 and the rear base fabric 2 may be provided in the vicinity of the center of the non-bonded region. Fig. 4 shows a state in which a partial connection region 17 is provided in the vicinity of the center of the toe pattern portion 14.
In the front side of the warp knitted fabric 10, the portion where the jacquard yarn is knitted into the front base fabric 1 has the color of the jacquard yarn, and the portion where the jacquard yarn is knitted into the back base fabric 2 has the color of the yarn formed on the front base fabric 1 (i.e., the yarn fed from the guide knuckles GB2, GB 3). In the portion where the front base fabric 1 and the rear base fabric 2 are alternately woven with the jacquard yarn, the color of the jacquard yarn is mixed with the color of the yarn forming the front base fabric 1.
The knitting structure of the peripheral portion 12 is not limited, and for example, jacquard yarn is alternately knitted into the front base fabric 1 and the rear base fabric 2. In the portion where the jacquard yarn is woven into the front base fabric 1 and the rear base fabric 2 as in the peripheral portion 12 and the upper pattern portion 16, the front base fabric 1 and the rear base fabric 2 are connected by the jacquard yarn.
In addition, in the warp knitting fabric actually knitted by the single jacquard double raschel machine, a plurality of warp knitting fabrics 10 are connected in the warp direction and the weft direction.
The warp knitted fabric 10 of the present embodiment can be used for various articles such as clothing such as a jacket, interior materials, and the like, in addition to shoes.
In this way, in the warp knitted fabric 10 of the present embodiment, since the jacquard yarn connects the front base fabric 1 and the back base fabric 2 and forms a jacquard pattern on the back base fabric 2, a colored large pattern is formed on the back base fabric 2 even though printing is not performed. And is knitted into a warp knit by a single jacquard double raschel machine, and therefore, can be manufactured at low cost.
In addition, as long as the overlapping direction of the jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB5 with the rear knitting needle row BN is opposite to the overlapping direction of the guide comb node GB6 for knitting the rear side group fabric 2 with the rear knitting needle row BN, only the jacquard yarn is exposed on the rear side surface 3 in the region where the jacquard yarn is knitted into the rear side group fabric 2, and the color of the jacquard yarn is beautiful.
The above embodiments are presented by way of example and do not limit the scope of the invention. The above embodiment may be variously omitted, replaced, or modified without departing from the scope of the invention. Modifications of the above embodiment will be explained below.
In the above embodiment, yarns of one color are supplied to jacquard comb knuckles JB4, JB5, and yarns of the other 1 color are supplied to guide comb knuckles GB2, GB3, GB 6. In this case, the jacquard pattern is composed of 2 colors. However, it is also possible to supply a yarn of a certain 1 color to jacquard comb knuckles JB4, JB5, another yarn of 1 or 2 or more colors to guide comb knuckles GB2, GB3, and a yarn of multiple colors to guide comb knuckle GB6 used to knit back side group fabric 2. The rear base fabric 2 is constituted by a plurality of colors by supplying a plurality of colors of yarns to the guide comb GB6, and the colors of the jacquard yarns are further added thereto to form a pattern of a plurality of colors.
A method of feeding yarns of plural colors to the guide comb GB6 will be described. To knit a warp knit fabric, yarn is supplied from a stringer (referred to as "a stringer for GB 6") to a guide comb section GB 6. The yarn was previously wound on a GB6 truss by a warping machine. At this time, the warping machine changes the color of the yarn wound around the GB6 truss in the width direction of the GB6 truss. In this way, yarns having different colors in the width direction are supplied to the guide comb GB 6.
A specific embodiment is illustrated with respect to fig. 5. 2 upper parts 11 of the child are arranged in the width direction on the warp knit fabric 110 of fig. 5. GB6 in FIG. 5 has parts 101 to 116 in the order from the left by a girder 20. In the description of fig. 5, the GB6 stringer 20 and the warp knitted fabric 110 are arranged vertically, and knitted fabric portions composed of yarns supplied from the portions 101 to 116 of the GB6 stringer 20 and the portions 101 to 116 of the GB6 stringer 20 are aligned vertically. The continuous portion from the portion 101 to the portion 103, the continuous portion from the portion 106 to the portion 108, the continuous portion from the portion 109 to the portion 111, and the continuous portion from the portion 114 to the portion 116 are portions where the yarn is wound in the primary winding process performed by the warping machine, respectively. Thus, the portions 102 and 115 are portions around which the yarn to be supplied to the heel pattern portions 15 on both outer sides of the feet is wound, and the portions 107 and 110 are portions around which the yarn to be supplied to the heel pattern portions 15 on both inner sides of the feet is wound. The portions 104, 105, 112, and 113 are portions where the yarn is wound in the primary winding process by the warping machine.
Further, a yarn of a certain color (here, cyan is taken as an example) is wound around the portions 102 and 115 that supply yarns to the heel flower parts 15 on the outer sides of both feet, a yarn of another certain color (here, yellow is taken as an example) is wound around the portions 107 and 110 that supply yarns to the heel flower parts 15 on the inner sides of both feet, and a yarn of yet another color (here, red is taken as an example) is wound around the portions 101, 103 to 106, 108, 109, 111 to 114, and 116. Yarns of another color (here, black, for example) are supplied from the truss to jacquard comb nodes JB4 and JB 5.
When yarns are supplied from these stringers and knitting is performed in the same manner as in the warp knitted fabric 10 of fig. 4 of the above embodiment, a jacquard pattern composed of a plurality of colors is drawn on the back surface 3 of the warp knitted fabric 110. Specifically, the back surface 3 of the warp knit 110 is as follows. That is, in the portion where the jacquard yarn is woven into the front side base cloth 1, the rear side 3 is colored by the yarn forming the rear side base cloth 2. More specifically, the toe pattern portion 14 is red, the heel pattern portions 15 on the outer sides of both feet are cyan, and the heel pattern portions 15 on the inner sides of both feet are yellow. In addition, in the portion where the jacquard yarn is woven into the rear side base fabric 2, the rear side 3 is the color of the jacquard yarn. More specifically, the plain cloth portion 13 is black. In the portion where the jacquard yarn is alternately woven into the front base fabric 1 and the rear base fabric 2, the rear surface 3 is in a state where the color of the yarn forming the rear base fabric 2 and the color of the jacquard yarn are mixed. More specifically, the upper pattern portion 16 is in a state where red and black are mixed. Thus, the warp knit 110 is brightly colored.
This application is based on Japanese patent application 2016-. This application contains the entire contents of Japanese patent application 2016-.