CN107268171A - A kind of multilayer stereo roses and lace production method - Google Patents
A kind of multilayer stereo roses and lace production method Download PDFInfo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
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Abstract
Description
技术领域:Technical field:
本发明涉及纺织产品生产技术领域,特别涉及一种多层次立体蕾丝花边生产方法。The invention relates to the technical field of textile product production, in particular to a production method of multi-layer three-dimensional lace.
背景技术:Background technique:
蕾丝花边是一种具有显著装饰效应的提花面料,因其质地轻薄、纹样精致、造型独特被广泛应用于高档服装装饰、家居装饰和鞋帽装饰等。随着生产设备和生产工艺的不断创新、发展,蕾丝花边的生产成本逐渐降低、生产效率大幅提高,促使蕾丝花边在纺织品市场中所占的比例逐渐增大。依据蕾丝花边编织原理的不同,可以分为列韦斯蕾丝、刺绣蕾丝和拉舍尔蕾丝。Lace is a kind of jacquard fabric with significant decorative effect. It is widely used in high-end clothing decoration, home decoration and shoe and hat decoration because of its light and thin texture, exquisite pattern and unique shape. With the continuous innovation and development of production equipment and production technology, the production cost of lace is gradually reduced, and the production efficiency is greatly improved, which makes the proportion of lace in the textile market gradually increase. According to the different weaving principles of lace, it can be divided into Reves lace, embroidery lace and Raschel lace.
列韦斯蕾丝是是最古老的一种花边,是经典和高贵的代表,花边图案精细、边缘清晰、层次丰富、立体感强、手感柔软,被称作是“蕾丝中的劳斯莱斯”。但其生产工艺繁琐且需要较高的专业技能和生产技巧,生产效率很低。Reves lace is the oldest kind of lace, which is a representative of classic and noble. The lace pattern is fine, the edges are clear, the layers are rich, the three-dimensional effect is strong, and the touch is soft. It is called "Rolls Royce in lace". . But its production process is loaded down with trivial details and needs higher professional skill and production skill, and production efficiency is very low.
刺绣蕾丝目前通常指的是通过自动绣花机绣制而成,根据不同要求采用不同织物作为底布,用单色或多色纱线在底布上面进行提花,其花型设计和原料选择限制性较小,外观精巧美观,具有独特的立体感,但穿着舒适性较差,属于中低端面料。Embroidery lace usually refers to embroidered by automatic embroidery machines. According to different requirements, different fabrics are used as the base fabric, and single-color or multi-color yarns are used to jacquard on the base fabric. The pattern design and raw material selection are limited. Smaller, exquisite and beautiful in appearance, with a unique three-dimensional effect, but poor wearing comfort, belonging to low-end fabrics.
拉舍尔蕾丝指在多梳栉拉舍尔经编机上生产,利用不同类型的梳栉配合垫纱,形成具有花式网孔的地网和具有花纹效应的花型,地网与花型复合形成精致的中高档提花面料,是高档婚纱、女性内衣面料的首选。花型设计简便、生产效率高、手感柔软舒适,但其立体感和层次感比列韦斯蕾丝与刺绣蕾丝略差。Raschel lace is produced on a multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine. Different types of bars are used to match the pad yarn to form a ground net with fancy mesh and a flower pattern with a pattern effect. The ground net and the pattern are combined. It forms exquisite medium and high-end jacquard fabrics, which is the first choice for high-end wedding dresses and women's underwear fabrics. The pattern design is simple, the production efficiency is high, and the handle is soft and comfortable, but its three-dimensional sense and layering are slightly worse than that of Reves lace and embroidery lace.
公开于该背景技术部分的信息仅仅旨在增加对本发明的总体背景的理解,而不应当被视为承认或以任何形式暗示该信息构成已为本领域一般技术人员所公知的现有技术。The information disclosed in this Background section is only for enhancing the understanding of the general background of the present invention and should not be taken as an acknowledgment or any form of suggestion that the information constitutes the prior art that is already known to those skilled in the art.
发明内容:Invention content:
本发明的目的在于提供一种多层次立体蕾丝花边生产方法,从而克服上述现有技术中的缺陷。The purpose of the present invention is to provide a multi-layer three-dimensional lace production method, thereby overcoming the above-mentioned defects in the prior art.
为实现上述目的,本发明提供了一种多层次立体蕾丝花边生产方法,其特征在于:在多梳拉舍尔经编机上生产,配置两把分离式贾卡梳栉、至少一把衬纬花梳栉、至少一把压纱花梳栉,通过贾卡梳栉编织形成具有提花效应、轻薄通透的花式地网,通过衬纬花梳栉编织形成多层次衬纬花型层,通过压纱花梳栉编织形成立体感突出的压纱花型层;在后整理时通过立体植绒在蕾丝花边表面粘合绒毛,形成具有一定轮廓的植绒花型,与花式地网、衬纬花型和压纱花型形成多层次立体蕾丝花边。In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a method for producing multi-layer three-dimensional lace, which is characterized in that: it is produced on a multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine, equipped with two separate jacquard bars and at least one weft insert Bars, at least one pressed yarn bar, are woven by jacquard bars to form a light and transparent fancy ground net with jacquard effect, and multi-layer weft-inlay patterns are formed by weaving weft-inlay bars. Yarn bar weaves to form a three-dimensional embossed pattern layer; in the finishing process, the three-dimensional flocking is used to bond the fluff on the surface of the lace to form a flocking pattern with a certain outline, which is combined with the fancy ground net and weft insertion. Flower patterns and pressed yarn patterns form multi-level three-dimensional lace lace.
优选地,技术方案中,在贾卡梳栉编织过程中,确定基本横移数据即垫纱数码,通过贾卡花型意匠设计,控制贾卡导纱针的偏移方向和偏移时刻,形成网孔组织、薄组织、厚组织,不同组织效应的组合设计形成具有花纹效应的地网;通过改变两把半机号贾卡梳栉基本垫纱的方向进行贾卡同向设计和贾卡反向设计,通过改变贾卡梳栉的成圈方式进行成圈型贾卡垫纱设计和衬纬型贾卡垫纱设计。Preferably, in the technical solution, in the jacquard bar weaving process, determine the basic traverse data, that is, the lapping number, and control the offset direction and offset moment of the jacquard guide needle through the jacquard pattern design to form Mesh texture, thin texture, thick texture, the combined design of different texture effects forms a ground net with a pattern effect; by changing the direction of the basic laying yarn of two and a half gauge Jacquard bars, the Jacquard same-direction design and the Jacquard reverse design are carried out. By changing the loop-forming method of the jacquard bar, the loop-forming jacquard yarn design and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn design are carried out.
优选地,技术方案中,成圈型贾卡垫纱设计同向垫纱基本组织JB1.1 1-0/1-2//、JB1.2 1-0/1-2//,反向垫纱基本组织JB1.1 1-0/1-2//、JB1.2 1-2/1-1//;衬纬型贾卡垫纱设计同向垫纱基本组织JB1.1 0-0/2-2//、JB1.2 0-0/2-2//,反向垫纱基本组织JB1.10-0/2-2//、JB1.2 2-2/0-0//。Preferably, in the technical solution, the loop-forming jacquard lapping yarn is designed to be in the same direction as the basic structure of the lapping yarn JB1.1 1-0/1-2//, JB1.2 1-0/1-2//, reverse lapping Yarn basic weave JB1.1 1-0/1-2//, JB1.2 1-2/1-1//; weft-inserted jacquard yarn laying design same direction basic weaving JB1.1 0-0/ 2-2//, JB1.2 0-0/2-2//, reverse lapping basic weave JB1.10-0/2-2//, JB1.2 2-2/0-0//.
优选地,技术方案中,在衬纬花梳栉编织过程中,将纱线垫入地梳编链线圈的延展线内,通过改变单横列垫纱的横跨针距数和连续垫纱的横列数形成具有一定廓形的衬纬花型层;通过靠近机前的衬纬花梳栉穿较粗的纱线进行小针距横移勾勒花型轮廓线,凸出花型轮廓,增强花型的立体感;通过双列衬纬垫纱和单列衬纬垫纱组合设计,凸出花型的深浅渐变效果,丰富外观层次。Preferably, in the technical solution, during the weft-inserted pattern bar weaving process, the yarn is inserted into the extended line of the ground knitting chain coil, and the number of stitches across the single-row lay-up yarn and the course of the continuous lay-up yarn are changed. Several weft-inlay pattern layers with a certain profile are formed; through the weft-inlay bar close to the front of the machine, the thicker yarn is used to move across the small needle pitch to outline the outline of the pattern, protruding the outline of the pattern, and enhancing the pattern The three-dimensional effect; through the combination design of double-row weft-inserted yarn and single-row weft-inserted yarn, the gradient effect of the pattern is highlighted and the appearance level is enriched.
优选地,技术方案中,在压纱花梳栉编织过程中,在地网上形成压纱花型,压纱组织延展线在工艺反面浮在地梳线圈之上,形成较为凸出的花型,立体感较好,与较平坦的衬纬花型和贾卡地网组合,形成多层次外观效果;通过控制压纱花梳栉与地梳编链梳栉垫纱方向以及压纱花梳栉针前垫纱方式不同,形成反向开口压纱、反向闭口压纱、同向开口压纱和同向闭口压纱组织,具有不同的立体外观效果。Preferably, in the technical solution, during the knitting process of the pressed yarn bar, the pressed yarn pattern is formed on the ground net, and the stretched line of the pressed yarn structure floats on the ground comb coil on the reverse side of the process, forming a relatively protruding pattern, The three-dimensional effect is good, and it is combined with the relatively flat weft inlay pattern and the Jacquard ground net to form a multi-layer appearance effect; by controlling the yarn laying direction of the pressing flower bar and the ground comb chain bar and the pressing yarn bar needle There are different methods of front laying, forming reverse open yarn pressing, reverse closed yarn pressing, same direction opening pressing yarn and same direction closing pressing yarn weave, which have different three-dimensional appearance effects.
优选地,技术方案中,在立体植绒过程中,在蕾丝花边一定的提花区域表面涂上粘合剂,将其放置在零电位或者接地条件下,使需要植入的短纤维绒毛带负电荷,利用高压静电场将短纤维绒毛植入蕾丝花边表面,形成具有一定轮廓的植绒花型,与花式地网、衬纬花型和压纱花型形成多层次立体蕾丝花边。Preferably, in the technical solution, in the three-dimensional flocking process, an adhesive is coated on the surface of a certain jacquard area of the lace, and it is placed under zero potential or grounding conditions, so that the short fiber fluff that needs to be implanted is negatively charged , using a high-voltage electrostatic field to implant short-fiber fluff into the surface of lace to form a flocking pattern with a certain outline, and form a multi-layered three-dimensional lace with fancy ground net, weft-inserting pattern and pressed yarn pattern.
与现有技术相比,本发明具有如下有益效果:Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:
通过将贾卡提花技术、多梳衬纬提花技术、立体压纱提花技术和立体植绒技术有机结合,形成的花式地网轻薄通透,形成的主体花型层次丰富、立体感突出,为高档立体蕾丝花边的生产提供有效方法。Through the organic combination of jacquard jacquard technology, multi-comb weft-inserted jacquard technology, three-dimensional pressed yarn jacquard technology and three-dimensional flocking technology, the formed fancy ground net is light and transparent, and the main pattern formed is rich in layers and has a prominent three-dimensional effect. An effective method is provided for the production of high-grade three-dimensional lace.
附图说明:Description of drawings:
图1为本发明贾卡同向垫纱形成的花式地网示意图;Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram of the fancy floor net that Jacquard laying yarn forms in the same direction of the present invention;
图2为本发明贾卡反向垫纱形成的花式地网示意图;Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of a fancy floor net formed by jacquard reverse lapping yarns of the present invention;
图3为本发明衬纬花型层示意图;Fig. 3 is a schematic diagram of the weft-inserted pattern layer of the present invention;
图4为本发明全涤仿毛抗皱针织面料示意图;Fig. 4 is the schematic diagram of full polyester wool-like wrinkle-resistant knitted fabric of the present invention;
具体实施方式:detailed description:
下面结合附图,对本发明的具体实施方式进行详细描述,但应当理解本发明的保护范围并不受具体实施方式的限制。The specific embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, but it should be understood that the protection scope of the present invention is not limited by the specific embodiments.
除非另有其它明确表示,否则在整个说明书和权利要求书中,术语“包括”或其变换如“包含”或“包括有”等等将被理解为包括所陈述的元件或组成部分,而并未排除其它元件或其它组成部分。Unless expressly stated otherwise, throughout the specification and claims, the term "comprise" or variations thereof such as "includes" or "includes" and the like will be understood to include the stated elements or constituents, and not Other elements or other components are not excluded.
本发明公开了一种多层次立体蕾丝花边生产方法,在多梳拉舍尔经编机上生产,配置两把分离式贾卡梳栉、至少一把衬纬花梳栉、至少一把压纱花梳栉,通过贾卡梳栉编织形成具有提花效应、轻薄通透的花式地网,通过衬纬花梳栉编织形成多层次衬纬花型层,通过压纱花梳栉编织形成立体感突出的压纱花型层;在后整理时通过立体植绒在蕾丝花边表面粘合绒毛,形成具有一定轮廓的植绒花型,与花式地网、衬纬花型和压纱花型形成多层次立体蕾丝花边。The invention discloses a method for producing multi-layer three-dimensional lace, which is produced on a multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine, and is equipped with two separated jacquard bars, at least one weft insert bar, and at least one pressed yarn bar. The jacquard bar weaves to form a light and transparent fancy floor net with jacquard effect, the weft-inlay bar weaves to form a multi-layer weft-inlay pattern layer, and the embossed flower bar weaves to form a three-dimensional effect The embossed pattern layer; in the finishing process, through three-dimensional flocking, the fluff is bonded on the surface of the lace to form a flocked pattern with a certain outline, which forms a multi-dimensional pattern with the fancy ground net, weft-inserted pattern and embossed pattern. Layered sculptural lace trim.
贾卡提花技术用以形成轻薄、通透的花式地网,原料一般采用较细的40D或20D半消光锦纶。在贾卡梳栉编织过程中,贾卡同向垫纱通常采用衬纬组织,基本横移数据为0-0/2-2//,配合地梳编链组织形成具有网孔、薄组织和厚组织的花式地网,如附图1所示。贾卡反向垫纱一般采用成圈组织,贾卡梳栉配置在最前面,基本横移数据为JB1.1:1-0/1-2//,JB1.2:1-2/1-0//,无地梳编链线圈,所以形成的花式地网更加轻薄,如附图2所示。Jacquard jacquard technology is used to form a light and transparent fancy floor net, and the raw material is generally made of thinner 40D or 20D semi-dull nylon. In the process of jacquard bar weaving, jacquard yarns in the same direction usually adopt weft-inserted weaving, and the basic traverse data is 0-0/2-2//. Thick textured fancy floor net, as shown in Figure 1. The jacquard reverse lapping generally adopts a loop weave, the jacquard bar is arranged at the front, and the basic traverse data is JB1.1: 1-0/1-2//, JB1.2: 1-2/1- 0//, no ground comb knitting chain coil, so the formed fancy ground net is lighter and thinner, as shown in Figure 2.
多梳衬纬提花技术用以形成衬纬花型层,因衬纬延展性被地梳编链延展性覆盖,所以形成的衬纬花型较平坦,通过以下方式增强外观立体感:不同梳栉所穿原料颜色的深浅和光泽明暗的变化增加层次感;较细原料进行多针距横移垫纱形成主体花型,较粗的原料进行小针距横移垫纱作为主体花型的轮廓线,通过较平坦的主体与凸出的轮廓对比,增加层次感,如附图3所示;双列衬纬组织与单列衬纬组织同时编织,双列衬纬形成较轻薄区域,单列衬纬形成具有质感的厚花型区,增加视觉立体感。The multi-comb weft-insertion jacquard technology is used to form the weft-insert pattern layer. Because the weft-insertion ductility is covered by the ground-comb knitting chain ductility, the weft-inlay pattern formed is relatively flat, and the three-dimensional appearance is enhanced by the following methods: different combs The color depth of the raw material worn and the change of luster light and shade increase the sense of hierarchy; the thinner raw material is used for multi-gauge lateral movement to form the main pattern, and the thicker raw material is used for small-gauge lateral movement as the outline of the main pattern , through the contrast between the flatter main body and the protruding outline, the sense of layering is increased, as shown in Figure 3; the double-row inlay weave and the single-row weft-insertion weave at the same time, the double-row weft-insertion forms a thinner area, and the single-row weft-insertion forms The thick flower-shaped area with texture increases the visual three-dimensionality.
立体压纱提花技术因压纱组织延展线浮在工艺反面的最上层,仅在每横列左右成圈的纵行处与地网固定,所以立体效果最佳,用以形成多层次立体蕾丝花边的核心花型区。为进一步增强视觉立体感,压纱花梳栉所穿纱线选择蓬松度较好的锦纶高弹纱或具有较低捻回数的有光锦纶,且工艺上多形成与地梳编链线圈反向的开口压纱组织。The three-dimensional pressed yarn jacquard technology has the best three-dimensional effect because the extended line of the pressed yarn floats on the uppermost layer of the reverse side of the process, and is only fixed to the ground net at the left and right longitudinal rows of each course, so the three-dimensional effect is the best, and it is used to form multi-layer three-dimensional lace. core pattern area. In order to further enhance the visual three-dimensional effect, the yarn worn by the pressed yarn bar is selected from nylon high-elastic yarn with better bulkiness or bright nylon with a lower number of twists, and the process is mostly formed in the reverse direction of the ground comb knitting chain coil. The opening pressed yarn organization.
立体植绒技术用以在后整理工序中通过在蕾丝花型表面植入短纤维绒毛进一步增加立体效果。将织物放置在零电位或者接地条件下,使需要植入的短纤维绒毛带负电荷,利用高压静电场将短纤维绒毛植入蕾丝花边表面,形成具有一定轮廓的植绒花型。植绒技术中的关键如下:被植入的绒毛原料需根据蕾丝花边的原料确定,以黏胶纤维和锦纶纤维为主;蕾丝花边表面涂抹的粘合剂需具备一定的牢度,避免水洗或摩擦时出现掉毛现象,影响面料的品质,通常以自交联粘合剂为主,不仅有效粘结绒毛和花边,且确保绒毛手感柔软,对人体和环境无污染;被植入绒毛染色的色光、物理和化学指标必须符合标准。The three-dimensional flocking technology is used to further increase the three-dimensional effect by implanting short fiber fluff on the surface of the lace pattern in the finishing process. The fabric is placed under zero potential or grounding conditions, so that the short fiber fluff to be implanted is negatively charged, and the short fiber fluff is implanted on the surface of the lace by using a high-voltage electrostatic field to form a flocking pattern with a certain outline. The key points in the flocking technology are as follows: the raw material of the fluff to be implanted must be determined according to the raw material of the lace, mainly viscose fiber and nylon fiber; the adhesive applied on the surface of the lace must have a certain degree of fastness, avoid washing or Hair shedding occurs during friction, which affects the quality of the fabric. Usually, self-crosslinking adhesives are used as the main adhesive, which not only effectively bonds the fluff and lace, but also ensures that the fluff feels soft and has no pollution to the human body and the environment; Shade, physical and chemical indicators must meet the standards.
如附图4所示,多梳衬纬提花技术和立体压纱提花技术还可以配合多梳剪线技术,在花型和花型之间的过渡连接区根据地网组织和花梳成圈方式,使过渡的花梳纱线形成浮线组织,在后整理时挑断浮线并剪除,使过渡区仅存在花式地网,更加通透轻薄。As shown in Figure 4, the multi-comb weft-inserted jacquard technology and the three-dimensional pressed yarn jacquard technology can also be combined with the multi-comb thread-cutting technology. Make the transitional patterned yarns form a floating thread structure, pick off the floating threads and cut them off during finishing, so that there is only a fancy ground net in the transition area, which is more transparent and thinner.
前述对本发明的具体示例性实施方案的描述是为了说明和例证的目的。这些描述并非想将本发明限定为所公开的精确形式,并且很显然,根据上述教导,可以进行很多改变和变化。对示例性实施例进行选择和描述的目的在于解释本发明的特定原理及其实际应用,从而使得本领域的技术人员能够实现并利用本发明的各种不同的示例性实施方案以及各种不同的选择和改变。本发明的范围意在由权利要求书及其等同形式所限定。The foregoing descriptions of specific exemplary embodiments of the present invention have been presented for purposes of illustration and description. These descriptions are not intended to limit the invention to the precise form disclosed, and obviously many modifications and variations are possible in light of the above teaching. The exemplary embodiments were chosen and described in order to explain the specific principles of the invention and its practical application, thereby enabling others skilled in the art to make and use various exemplary embodiments of the invention, as well as various Choose and change. It is intended that the scope of the invention be defined by the claims and their equivalents.
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CN111172667A (en) * | 2020-01-16 | 2020-05-19 | 广东天海花边有限公司 | Double weft insertion jacquard multi-comb warp knitted fabric and knitting method thereof |
CN111648021A (en) * | 2020-06-09 | 2020-09-11 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | Lace fabric with multiple variable ground textures and preparation method thereof |
CN111826969A (en) * | 2020-06-02 | 2020-10-27 | 福建辅布司纺织有限公司 | Multilayer three-dimensional lace production method |
CN112726008A (en) * | 2020-12-21 | 2021-04-30 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | Lace fabric with three-dimensional structure and preparation method thereof |
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CN114672922A (en) * | 2022-02-26 | 2022-06-28 | 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 | Knitted fabric and vamp of double-needle bar jacquard warp knitting machine and manufacturing method of knitted fabric |
CN115074906A (en) * | 2022-07-19 | 2022-09-20 | 福建德运科技有限公司 | Novel jacquard method for hexagonal jacquard of warp knitting machine and warp knitting machine |
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CN111648021A (en) * | 2020-06-09 | 2020-09-11 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | Lace fabric with multiple variable ground textures and preparation method thereof |
WO2022095293A1 (en) * | 2020-11-05 | 2022-05-12 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | Lace fabric with good air permeability and bursting resistance and weaving method therefor |
CN112726008A (en) * | 2020-12-21 | 2021-04-30 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | Lace fabric with three-dimensional structure and preparation method thereof |
CN113106617A (en) * | 2021-03-17 | 2021-07-13 | 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 | Warp-knitted jacquard mesh with visible and invisible threads and manufacturing method and application thereof |
CN113106617B (en) * | 2021-03-17 | 2022-08-23 | 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 | Warp-knitted jacquard mesh with visible and invisible threads and manufacturing method and application thereof |
CN114672922A (en) * | 2022-02-26 | 2022-06-28 | 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 | Knitted fabric and vamp of double-needle bar jacquard warp knitting machine and manufacturing method of knitted fabric |
CN115074906A (en) * | 2022-07-19 | 2022-09-20 | 福建德运科技有限公司 | Novel jacquard method for hexagonal jacquard of warp knitting machine and warp knitting machine |
CN115074906B (en) * | 2022-07-19 | 2023-09-22 | 福建德运科技有限公司 | Novel jacquard method for hexagonal jacquard of warp knitting machine and warp knitting machine |
CN115323603A (en) * | 2022-08-01 | 2022-11-11 | 福建航港针织品有限公司 | A kind of wool feeling multi-card warp knitted fabric and its production process |
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