CN107099916A - Embroidery is creased the processing technology of integrated wearing fabric - Google Patents
Embroidery is creased the processing technology of integrated wearing fabric Download PDFInfo
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 66
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 36
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- 238000007639 printing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 235000008708 Morus alba Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 240000000249 Morus alba Species 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims 2
- 238000007654 immersion Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 125000006850 spacer group Chemical group 0.000 claims 1
- 230000004927 fusion Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000002791 soaking Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000010354 integration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035790 physiological processes and functions Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004321 preservation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007704 transition Effects 0.000 description 1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D23/00—General weaving methods not special to the production of any particular woven fabric or the use of any particular loom; Weaves not provided for in any other single group
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05C—EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05C7/00—Special-purpose or automatic embroidering machines
- D05C7/08—Special-purpose or automatic embroidering machines for attaching cords, tapes, bands, or the like
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B21/00—Successive treatments of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种织绣折印一体化服用面料的加工工艺,采用桑蚕丝为经线和纬线原料,依次经过织花—印花—绣花—折叠工艺完成加工工艺,其中所述的织花工艺选择12000针的电子提花机织造,使用纹针9600针,成品门幅为282厘米,采用3.3花进行织花工艺;制作成为织花后备布;然后对织花后备布进行印花工艺,制作成为印花后备布;然后对印花后备布进行绣花工艺,最后根据织花花位及印花部分的面积变化,相应调整进行折叠的间隔面积来完成折叠工艺,制作成成品。本发明织物在外观上有半立体效果,又能满足织物丰富肌理效果的融合。而且有很好的亲肤性和舒适感,提高了面料的品质感。The invention discloses a processing technology for fabrics integrated with weaving, embroidery, folding and printing. Mulberry silk is used as warp and weft raw materials, and the processing technology is completed through weaving-printing-embroidery-folding in sequence, wherein the weaving process is selected Electronic jacquard weaving with 12,000 needles, using 9,600 needles, the finished door width is 282 cm, using 3.3 flowers for weaving process; making it into a weaving reserve fabric; and then printing the weaving reserve fabric to make it into a printing reserve Cloth; then carry out the embroidery process on the printed backup cloth, and finally adjust the folding interval area accordingly according to the area change of the weaving flower position and the printing part to complete the folding process and make it into a finished product. The fabric of the invention has a semi-stereo effect in appearance and can meet the fusion of rich texture effects of the fabric. Moreover, it has good skin affinity and comfort, which improves the quality of the fabric.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及一种织绣折印一体化服用面料的加工工艺。The invention relates to a processing technology of an integrated clothing fabric with weaving, embroidery, folding and printing.
背景技术Background technique
目前服装面料常用的工艺有织花、绣花、印花等,这几种工艺各有优势,也各有不同的风格效果。一般一款面料仅运用其中的一种到两种的工艺进行设计加工,如或织花、或印花、或织印结合等。At present, the commonly used techniques for clothing fabrics include weaving, embroidery, printing, etc. These techniques have their own advantages and different style effects. Generally, only one or two of these techniques are used for design and processing of a fabric, such as flower weaving, printing, or a combination of weaving and printing.
目前国内外服装市场上还未发现织绣折印多工艺一体化面料的服装及服饰产品。随着我国经济的快速发展和人们生活水平的提高,人们对服装的要求已经从最初基本生理功能发展到追求更为美观化、品质化、舒适化、时尚化、高档化的阶段。在中国企业注重自主创新的时期,却有很多高端女装公司更多依赖国外进口的服装面料;鉴于此本发明研制了一种织花、绣花、折叠、印花多工艺一体化面料的加工工艺,能为中国女装及服饰的设计带来一股新潮流,以满足人们的多元化审美需求,必定具有广阔的市场前景。At present, there is no clothing and apparel products with integrated fabrics of weaving, embroidery, folding and printing in the clothing market at home and abroad. With the rapid development of our country's economy and the improvement of people's living standards, people's requirements for clothing have developed from the initial basic physiological functions to the stage of pursuing more aesthetics, quality, comfort, fashion, and high-grade. In the period when Chinese enterprises pay attention to independent innovation, there are many high-end women's clothing companies that rely more on imported clothing fabrics; in view of this, the present invention has developed a fabric processing technology that integrates weaving, embroidery, folding and printing. Bringing a new trend to the design of Chinese women's clothing and clothing to meet people's diverse aesthetic needs, it must have a broad market prospect.
发明内容Contents of the invention
本发明的目的是针对现有技术状况而提供一种织绣折印一体化服用面料的加工工艺,本发明织物在外观上有半立体效果,又能满足织物丰富肌理效果的融合。而且该面料图案设计上色彩丰富,细腻别致,风格新颖,具有强烈时尚感和丰富的艺术表现力,采用了桑蚕丝为主原料,有很好的亲肤性和舒适感,提高了面料的品质感,提高了产品的附加值。The purpose of the present invention is to provide a processing technology for integrated clothing fabric with weaving, embroidery, folding and printing in view of the existing technical situation. The fabric of the present invention has a semi-stereo effect in appearance and can meet the fusion of rich texture effects of the fabric. Moreover, the pattern design of the fabric is rich in color, delicate and unique, novel in style, with a strong sense of fashion and rich artistic expression. It uses mulberry silk as the main raw material, which has good skin-friendly and comfortable feeling, and improves the quality of the fabric. Sense, improve the added value of the product.
一种织绣折印一体化服用面料的加工工艺,采用桑蚕丝为经线和纬线原料,依次经过织花—印花—绣花—折叠工艺完成加工工艺,其中所述的织花工艺选择12000针的电子提花机织造,使用纹针9600针,成品门幅为282厘米,采用3.3花进行织花工艺;经线按照(1/20/22D厂丝8T/Z×2)6.8T/S,共8色的经组合进行下述加工工艺:经线原料→挑剔→浸泡→烘干→络丝→并丝→捻丝→蒸箱定型→自然冷却→倒筒→染色→烘干→染色原料检验→精密络筒→保潮→整经;纬线按照5/20/22D厂桑蚕丝3.8T/S进行下述加工工艺:原料→成绞→染色→烘干→络筒;再将经线和纬线按照上述设计上机织造,其中成品经密为115根/厘米,成品纬密为52根/厘米,经线张力:26CN;并经过水柔软整理后完成织花工艺,制作成为织花后备布;然后对织花后备布进行印花工艺,将所述织花后备布进行下述加工工艺:织花后备布→漂白/染色→干布→整理做P.S→印花→干定/蒸布→染部洗水→干布→定型,完成印花工艺,制作成为印花后备布;然后对印花后备布进行绣花工艺,在印花后备布的小面积地方进行钉珠绣,起到点缀的效果;最后根据织花花位及印花部分的面积变化,相应调整进行折叠的间隔面积来完成折叠工艺,制作成成品。A processing technology of weaving, embroidery, folding and printing integrated clothing fabrics, which uses mulberry silk as the warp and weft raw materials, and completes the processing technology through the weaving-printing-embroidery-folding process in sequence, wherein the weaving process selects 12,000 needles of electronic fabrics. Jacquard machine weaving, using 9600 needles, the finished product width is 282 cm, using 3.3 flowers for weaving process; Combination of the following processing technology: Warp raw materials → picking → soaking → drying → winding → doubling → twisting → steam box setting → natural cooling → rewinding → dyeing → drying → dyeing raw material inspection → precision winding → preservation Tide→warping; weft is processed according to the 3.8T/S 3.8T/S of mulberry silk in 5/20/22D factory: raw material→twisting→dyeing→drying→winding; then weave the warp and weft according to the above design, Among them, the warp density of the finished product is 115 threads/cm, the weft density of the finished product is 52 threads/cm, and the warp thread tension: 26CN; and the weaving process is completed after water softening and finishing, and it is made into a woven flower reserve cloth; and then the woven flower reserve cloth is printed Process, carry out the following processing technology on the woven flower reserve cloth: woven flower reserve cloth→bleaching/dyeing→drying cloth→finishing and making P.S→printing→drying/steaming cloth→washing of the dyed part→drying cloth→setting, complete Printing process, making it into a printed reserve cloth; then the embroidery process is performed on the printed reserve cloth, and bead embroidery is performed on a small area of the printed reserve cloth to achieve the effect of embellishment; finally, according to the change of the weaving flower position and the area of the printed part, corresponding Adjust the interval area for folding to complete the folding process and make it into a finished product.
本发明的有益效果为:本发明采用织绣折印多种工艺的组合设计,在面料的材质表现上做到取长补短,使织物在外观上有半立体效果,又能满足织物丰富肌理效果的融合。而且该面料图案设计上色彩丰富,细腻别致,风格新颖,具有强烈时尚感和丰富的艺术表现力,适用于高档服用服饰产品的开发。再者在材料上,采用了桑蚕丝为主原料,有很好的亲肤性和舒适感,提高了面料的品质感,提高了产品的附加值。The beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: the present invention adopts the combination design of various techniques of weaving, embroidery, folding and printing, and learns from each other in terms of the material performance of the fabric, so that the fabric has a semi-stereo effect in appearance, and can also meet the fusion of rich texture effects of the fabric . Moreover, the pattern design of the fabric is rich in color, delicate and unique, novel in style, has a strong sense of fashion and rich artistic expression, and is suitable for the development of high-end apparel products. Furthermore, in terms of materials, mulberry silk is used as the main raw material, which has good skin-friendliness and comfort, improves the quality of the fabric, and increases the added value of the product.
具体实施方式detailed description
以下结合实施例说明,但不限制本发明。The following examples illustrate, but do not limit the present invention.
实施例1Example 1
本实施例的一种织绣折印一体化服用面料的加工工艺,采用桑蚕丝为经线和纬线原料,依次经过织花—印花—绣花—折叠工艺完成加工工艺,其中所述的织花工艺选择12000针的电子提花机织造,使用纹针9600针,成品门幅为282厘米,采用3.3花进行织花工艺;经线按照(1/20/22D厂丝8T/Z×2)6.8T/S,共8色的经组合进行下述加工工艺:经线原料→挑剔→浸泡→烘干→络丝→并丝→捻丝→蒸箱定型→自然冷却→倒筒→染色→烘干→染色原料检验→精密络筒→保潮→整经;纬线按照5/20/22D厂桑蚕丝3.8T/S进行下述加工工艺:原料→成绞→染色→烘干→络筒;再将经线和纬线按照上述设计上机织造,其中成品经密为115根/厘米,成品纬密为52根/厘米,经线张力:26CN;并经过水柔软整理后完成织花工艺,制作成为织花后备布;然后对织花后备布进行印花工艺,将所述织花后备布进行下述加工工艺:织花后备布→漂白/染色→干布→整理做P.S→印花→干定/蒸布→染部洗水→干布→定型,完成印花工艺,制作成为印花后备布;然后对印花后备布进行绣花工艺,在印花后备布的小面积地方进行钉珠绣,起到点缀的效果;最后根据织花花位及印花部分的面积变化,相应调整进行折叠的间隔面积来完成折叠工艺,制作成成品。The processing technology of a weaving, embroidery, folding and printing integrated clothing fabric in this embodiment uses mulberry silk as the warp and weft raw materials, and completes the processing technology through the weaving-printing-embroidery-folding process in sequence, wherein the weaving process is selected Electronic jacquard weaving with 12000 needles, using 9600 needles, the finished product width is 282 cm, using 3.3 flowers for weaving process; The combination of 8 colors carries out the following processing technology: Warp raw materials→picking→soaking→drying→winding→doubling→twisting→steaming box setting→natural cooling→drum rewinding→dyeing→drying→dyeing raw material inspection→precision Winding→moisture retention→warping; the weft thread is processed according to the following processing technology of mulberry silk in 5/20/22D factory 3.8T/S: raw material→twisting→dyeing→drying→winding; then the warp and weft are designed according to the above Machine weaving, in which the warp density of the finished product is 115 threads/cm, the weft density of the finished product is 52 threads/cm, and the warp tension: 26CN; and the weaving process is completed after water softening and finishing, and it is made into a reserve fabric for weaving; The reserve cloth is subjected to the printing process, and the woven flower reserve cloth is subjected to the following processing technology: woven flower reserve cloth→bleaching/dyeing→drying cloth→finishing and making P.S→printing→drying/steaming cloth→washing of dyed part→drying cloth → Finalize the shape, complete the printing process, and make it into a printed reserve cloth; then perform embroidery on the printed reserve cloth, and perform bead embroidery on a small area of the printed reserve cloth to achieve the effect of embellishment; finally, according to the pattern of the weaving flower position and the printing part If the area changes, adjust the interval area for folding accordingly to complete the folding process and make it into a finished product.
本实施例织物的图案主要有织花和印花部分组成。织花部分设计为传统的欧洲古典风格花卉,在元素结构和布局排列上进行再设计,使图案线条流畅,别致细腻,将古典风格与现代时尚感相结合。在织造的同时,设计好配合波浪形竖条纹的印花图案,条纹粗细有致,色彩丰富,同时颜色协调、过渡细腻自然。波浪形竖条纹风格新颖,透露着一种灵动感。本实施例将织花与印花图案在构图安排上进行巧妙的设计,达到相互融入,颜色协调统一,整幅画面色彩与肌理丰富,给人一种舒适优雅的感觉,具有独特的外观风格和艺术表现力。并且在织花图案的花卉花蕊等部位采用绣花工艺进行钉珠点缀,使面料的层次更加丰富、更加精致细腻。最后对整幅面料,根据花位的变化,再施以巧妙设计的不同间隔的折叠,创造出2.5维的半立体空间效果。本实施例面料选用桑蚕丝为主原料,提高了产品的品质,扩大了真丝产品的应用领域,符合当前舒适环保的趋势,而且具有很好的亲肤性和舒适感,提高了面料的品质感。在花型和图案结构上,将欧洲古典风格和现代时尚相融合,色彩丰富、协调统一,符合流行趋势。不管是从工艺还是图案等方面,该面料将会给中国女装及服饰设计带来新的启发。在追求多元化、时尚化、个性化设计的时代,从市场前景和发展趋势上看,该产品具有广阔的前景和良好的经济效益。适用于中高档消费者群体,面料展现出层次丰富、梦幻多变的艺术效果,适用于高级成衣、成衣定制、围巾配饰等产品的开发。The pattern of the fabric of this embodiment mainly consists of weaving flowers and printing parts. The flower weaving part is designed as a traditional European classical style flower, and the element structure and layout arrangement are redesigned to make the pattern lines smooth, unique and delicate, combining classical style with modern fashion sense. While weaving, design the printing pattern with wavy vertical stripes. The thickness of the stripes is uniform, the colors are rich, and the colors are coordinated and the transition is delicate and natural. The wavy vertical stripes are novel in style, revealing a sense of agility. In this embodiment, weaving flowers and printing patterns are ingeniously designed in terms of composition arrangement, so as to achieve mutual integration, harmonious and unified colors, rich colors and textures of the whole picture, giving people a comfortable and elegant feeling, with unique appearance style and artistic expressiveness. In addition, embroidery techniques are used to embellish the flower pistils and other parts of the weaving pattern, making the fabric layer richer and more delicate. Finally, according to the change of the flower position, the whole fabric is folded at different intervals with ingenious design to create a 2.5-dimensional semi-stereo space effect. The fabric of this embodiment uses mulberry silk as the main raw material, which improves the quality of the product and expands the application field of real silk products. It conforms to the current trend of comfort and environmental protection, and has good skin-friendly and comfortable feeling, which improves the quality of the fabric. . In terms of flower pattern and pattern structure, European classical style and modern fashion are integrated, and the colors are rich and coordinated, which conforms to the fashion trend. No matter in terms of craftsmanship or patterns, this fabric will bring new inspiration to Chinese women's clothing and clothing design. In the era of pursuing diversification, fashion and personalized design, from the perspective of market prospect and development trend, this product has broad prospects and good economic benefits. It is suitable for middle and high-end consumer groups, and the fabrics show rich layers and fantastic artistic effects. It is suitable for the development of high-end ready-to-wear, tailor-made clothes, scarf accessories and other products.
Claims (1)
- The processing technology of integrated wearing fabric 1. a kind of embroidery is creased, it is characterised in that:Mulberry silk is used for warp and weft Raw material, sequentially passes through self-figure-stamp-embroidery-folding technology and completes processing technology, wherein described self-figure process choice The electronic jacquard machine weaving of 12000 pins, using the pin of line pin 9600, finished door width is 282 centimetres, and self-figure work is carried out using 3.3 flowers Skill;Warp according to(1/20/22D filature silks 8T/Z × 2)6.8T/S, totally 8 the colors combined following processing technologys of carry out:Warp raw material → fastidious → immersion → drying → reeling → and silk → twisted filament → steam box sizing → natural cooling → rewinding → dyeing → drying → Dye ingredient inspection → precision wind → guarantor's tide → warping;Parallel carries out following processing according to 5/20/22D factories mulberry silk 3.8T/S Technique:Raw material → skeining → dyeing → drying → winder;Again by warp and weft according to above-mentioned design looming weaving, wherein finished product Through it is close be 115 pieces/centimetre, finished product filling density is 52 pieces/centimetre, warp tension:26CN;And complete self-figure after water soft finish Technique, making turns into self-figure standby cloth;Then printing technology is carried out to self-figure standby cloth, the self-figure standby cloth carried out following Processing technology:P.S → stamp is made in self-figure standby cloth → bleaching/dyeing → dry cloth → arrangement it is → dry fixed/steam cloth → dye portion wash water → Dry cloth → sizing, completes printing technology, and making turns into stamp standby cloth;Then embroidery process is carried out to stamp standby cloth, in print The small area place of flower standby cloth carries out nail pearl embroidery, plays the effect interspersed;The face of position and stamp part is spent finally according to self-figure Product change, accordingly adjusts the spacer area that is folded to complete folding technology, is fabricated to finished product.
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Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN109943955A (en) * | 2019-04-26 | 2019-06-28 | 桐乡市米伽家纺有限公司 | A kind of preparation process of pseudo-classic style fabric and its fabric of preparation |
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