CN107041851B

CN107041851B - Foundation make-up composition for dark skin color and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN107041851B
Application number: CN201710099706.1A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 蒲源; 林立宇; 邹威
Original assignee: Guangzhou Zhiyuan Biotechnology Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Jiaxin Cosmetics Co.,Ltd.
Priority date: 2016-12-23
Filing date: 2017-02-23
Publication date: 2020-11-03
Anticipated expiration: 2037-02-23
Also published as: CN107041851A

Abstract

The invention discloses a foundation composition for dark skin color and a preparation method thereof. The foundation composition comprises the following components (in percentage by weight): 5-10% of film-forming agent; the film forming agent is a mixture of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and trimethylsiloxy silicate; 15-20% of a thickening agent; 30-50% of an emollient; 0.5 to 5 percent of emulsifier; 13-25% of skin feel regulator; 3-6% of a sun-screening agent; the sun-screening agent is nano titanium dioxide; 2.5 to 4 percent of pigment. According to the invention, a large amount of volatile grease is added in the formula, so that excellent skin feeling is provided for the product; the film-forming component is added, so that the lasting makeup-waiting capacity of the product is improved; the added nano-scale sun-proof titanium dioxide has sun-proof and isolating effects. The formula not only improves the application value and range of the product, but also endows the foundation product with more effects and concepts.

Description

Foundation make-up composition for dark skin color and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to a skin care product, belongs to the technical field of daily chemical products, and particularly relates to a non-aqueous foundation product which is developed specially for dark skin and has multiple effects of concealing, controlling oil, brightening skin and the like.

Background

The skin color is distributed differently in different areas and in different groups. The skin color refers to the skin color of the epidermis layer of human skin reflected by pigmentation of melanin, protoheme, phyllanthin and the like, the skin color is determined by the amount of the melanin in the skin, and in northern Europe with cold climate, people cannot suffer from little melanin of the body exposed to burning sun, so the skin color is more white; the body is regulated to generate a large amount of melanin so as to protect the skin and make the skin black or brownish black due to the fact that the tropical zone where the sunlight is concentrated is usually irradiated by strong sunlight; the temperate zone is neutral yellow or brownish yellow. African black population dominates, and is mainly distributed in sub-Saharan areas.

At present, foundation products suitable for people with dark skin color are hardly available on the market, the foundation products with dark skin color have very wide market prospect and are good for beauty, and people with dark skin color, such as black, dark brown, light brown or yellow people with darker skin color, also have very strong makeup desire, and can obtain the skin color desired by the people by using the foundation products as decoration, or solve the problem of uneven skin color by locally using the foundation.

Dark-skinned people are mainly distributed in africa and hot asia areas, and the light in the areas is very strong, the climate is stuffy and hot, and the people easily sweat, so that very strict requirements are put on products of foundation type. This type of foundation must have the following characteristics:

1. the product has good oil control and sweat absorption effects, and can keep a very dry and comfortable use feeling after being used by consumers.

2. The product contains a large amount of pigment and powder substances, so that higher requirements on the structure and stability of the formula are provided.

3. The product is used in hot areas, and the product has to have very good heat resistance to ensure the physical and chemical stability in the processes of sale, storage and use.

4. In hot climates and strong sunlight, a moist foundation is required, and the moist foundation has the efficacy of effectively resisting ultraviolet rays and makes the skin soft and smooth after the moist foundation is used.

Commercially available foundation products generally have effects of concealing, whitening, and regulating skin color by adding titanium dioxide and iron oxide-based pigments. In order to achieve a good skin-adhering effect and have certain water resistance and sweat resistance, most foundation products adopt a water-in-oil formula structure. The formulation of the type can not be added with a large amount of pigment and powder, because the formulation of a water-in-oil product containing a large amount of pigment is difficult to stabilize, the base product of the type is difficult to spread on the surface of the skin during application, and very obvious situations such as floating powder, stuck powder, unnatural make-up and the like are formed on the surface of the skin after application, thereby seriously influencing the use feeling of consumers.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to develop a foundation product specially used for people with dark skin colors (black, dark brown, light brown and the like), and the product breaks through the conventional foundation product in the aspects of formula setting and product application effects according to the skin characteristics of the people.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a method for preparing the above foundation product.

The purpose of the invention and the technical problem to be solved are realized by adopting the following technical scheme. The foundation composition for dark skin color comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

5-10% of film-forming agent; the film forming agent is a mixture of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and trimethylsiloxy silicate;

15-20% of a thickening agent;

30-50% of an emollient;

0.5 to 5 percent of emulsifier;

13-25% of skin feel regulator;

3-6% of a sun-screening agent; the sun-screening agent is nano titanium dioxide;

2.5 to 4 percent of pigment.

The emollient is selected from one or more of cyclopentadimethyl siloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, C30-45 alkyl dimethyl silicone alkyl poly propyl silsesquioxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The thickener is selected from Rheopearl KL2 dextrin palmitate, and a mixture of silica dimethyl silylate.

The emulsifier is selected from any one or mixture of sorbitan sesquioleate, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane and PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane.

The pigment is selected from any one or more of CI77491, CI77492, CI 77499 and CI 77891.

The skin feeling regulator is selected from one or more of talcum powder, mica, silica, nylon-12 and vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer.

The foundation composition for dark skin color of the present invention further comprises 0.1 to 0.3% of an aromatizer; and 0.1-0.3% of preservative phenoxyethanol.

The foundation composition for dark skin color comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

5.0 to 10.0 percent of dextrin palmitate, 5.0 to 10.0 percent of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and trimethylsiloxy silicate, 0.5 to 2.0 percent of dimethyl silylated silica, 2.0 to 10.0 percent of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 0.5 to 2.0 percent of sorbitan sesquioleate, 1.0 to 5.0 percent of C30 to 45 alkyl dimethyl alkyl polypropyl silsesquioxane, 1.0 to 5.0 percent of phenyl trimethicone, 2.0 to 8.0 percent of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3.0 to 6.0 percent of nano titanium dioxide, 2.0 to 6.0 percent of talcum powder, 5.0 to 2.0 percent of mica, 2.0 to 10.0 percent of silica, 122.0 to 6.0 percent of nylon, 0.1 to 0.3 percent of essence, 0.1 to 0.3 percent of phenoxyethanol, 1 to 1.2 percent of CI 774910.3, 774920.8 to 2.0 percent of CI 774990.5 to 1.5 percent of the balance, and the rest is cyclopentadimethylsiloxane.

In addition, the present invention also provides a method for preparing a foundation composition for dark skin color, comprising the steps of:

the foundation composition consists of a component A, a component B, a component C and a component D;

the component A comprises: 27.4% -48.7% of cyclopentasiloxane, 5.0% -10.0% of dextrin palmitate, 5.0% -10.0% of cyclopentasiloxane & trimethylsiloxy silicate, 0.5% -2.0% of dimethyl silylated silica, 2.0% -10.0% of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 0.5% -2.0% of sorbitan sesquioleate, 1.0% -5.0% of C30-45 alkyl dimethyl alkyl poly propyl silsesquioxane and 1.0% -5.0% of phenyl trimethyl siloxane:

the component B comprises: 2.0-8.0% of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3.0-6.0% of nano titanium dioxide, 3-1.2% of CI 774910.3, 2.0-2.0% of CI 774920.8 and 1.5% of CI 774990.5;

the C component comprises: 2.0 to 6.0 percent of talcum powder, 5.0 to 2.0 percent of mica, 2.0 to 10.0 percent of silica and 122.0 to 6.0 percent of nylon;

the component D comprises: 0.1 to 0.3 percent of essence and 0.1 to 0.3 percent of phenoxyethanol;

the foundation composition is prepared by the following process steps:

1) uniformly mixing the component B in a stainless steel barrel, and grinding twice by a three-roller machine for later use;

2) sequentially adding the component A into an emulsifying pot, and uniformly mixing; heating to 75-85 deg.C, and maintaining for 20min until completely melted;

3) adding the ground phase B component, and homogenizing at high speed (3000 r/min) for 10 minutes;

4) vacuumizing, sequentially adding the component C into an emulsifying pot under the stirring state of medium speed (600-700 rpm), continuously stirring for 15-20 min, homogenizing for 5-8 min (2000 rpm), and cooling; stirring and cooling to below 60 deg.C, adding component D, homogenizing and stirring;

5) cooling to 55 deg.C, inspecting, discharging and packaging.

By means of the technical scheme, the invention has the following advantages and beneficial effects:

1. according to the invention, a large amount of volatile grease is added in the formula, so that excellent skin feeling is provided for the product; the film-forming component is added, so that the lasting makeup-waiting capacity of the product is improved; the added nano-scale sun-proof titanium dioxide has sun-proof and isolating effects. The formula not only improves the application value and range of the product, but also endows the foundation product with more effects and concepts.

2. The invention adopts a water-free formula system and a special thickening system (combination of dextrin palmitate and silica dimethyl silylate), overcomes the problem that an emulsifying body is difficult to emulsify a large amount of pigment and powder, provides very obvious oil control and sweat absorption effects for users by adding a large amount of oil absorption powder with a hollow structure, greatly widens the application range of foundation, and has relatively obvious performance advantages and innovative concepts, thus being popular with more and more consumers.

Detailed Description

The foundation composition for dark skin color comprises a plurality of components, and the specific formula components are as follows: dextrin palmitate, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane & trimethylsiloxysilicate, dimethyl silica silylate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, sorbitan sesquioleate, C30-45 alkyl dimethyl alkyl polypropyl silsesquioxane, phenyl trimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, nano-scale titanium dioxide, talcum powder, mica, silica, nylon-12, essence, phenoxyethanol, CI77491, CI77492, CI 77499, and the balance cyclopentadimethylsiloxane.

Nylon-12, such a material havingThe hollow three-dimensional structure has a specific surface area of 85M²The water-absorbing oil-absorbing hollow spheres are hollow small spheres subjected to special surface treatment, can endow the products with excellent smooth skin feel and spreadability, can provide instant smooth skin feel, and have excellent water-absorbing and oil-absorbing properties and excellent oil-controlling matte effect. It can make skin not oily and bright, can provide soft focus effect, and it can scatter light to all directions, and make skin color more natural.

The source is as follows: the raw material is purchased from Arkema, France under the product name ORGASOL 2002EXD NatCOS.

Compared with the foundation used by the yellow or white people, the foundation product with dark skin color has the following characteristics:

1. the concealing power is stronger, and because the skin color of people with dark skin color is darker, more concealing components are needed to cover the skin flaws.

2. Formulations containing a large amount of pigments are difficult to spread if ordinary oil-in-water or water-in-oil formulations are used, so that a formulation which is all oily is required.

3. The whole oil formula is difficult to volatilize, the pigment is easy to wipe off, the makeup is easy to remove, and the collar is easy to pollute, so that a film forming component is required to be added, and the lasting makeup capacity of the product is improved.

4. Because of containing a large amount of grease and toner, the powder absorbing oil and volatile grease need to be increased so as to achieve dry and breathable use skin feel.

5. The sun-screening isolation component is required to be added in the formula, so that the daily sun-screening requirement can be met.

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to specific preferred embodiments, but the present invention is not limited to the following embodiments. The following formula components are all in percentage by weight.

Examples 1 to 4

The foundation compositions for dark skin colors of examples 1 to 4 of the present invention comprise the following raw material components, in percentage by weight, as shown in table 1 below:

TABLE 1 Foundation composition for dark skin color of examples 1-4 and formulation components of comparative example

The manufacturing method of the foundation composition of the embodiments 1 to 4 of the invention comprises the following process steps:

5) cooling to 55 deg.C, inspecting, discharging and packaging.

Comparative example (commercial product)

Existing foundation compositions for dark skin tones comprise the following components:

30 percent of deionized water, 5 percent of propylene glycol, 7 percent of glycerol, 6 percent of cyclopentylpentadimethylsiloxane, 4 percent of octyl methoxycinnamate, 0.8 percent of tocopherol acetate, 6 percent of synthetic grease, 3 percent of hectorite gel, 2 percent of nano-silicon-treated titanium dioxide, 2 percent of polydimethylsiloxane, 1.5 percent of PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxane ethyl polydimethylsiloxane, 1 percent of PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, 1 percent of polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer and polydimethylsiloxane, 0.5 percent of phenyl trimethicone, 1 percent of polymethyl methacrylate, 2 percent of silicone elastomer, 0.2 percent of sodium citrate, 0.5 percent of sodium chloride, 0.02 percent of sodium hyaluronate, 0.5 percent of inorganic toner, 0.5 percent of preservative, 2 percent of silicon-treated pearl powder,

the preparation process comprises the following steps:

1. adding sodium hyaluronate and antiseptic into propylene glycol and glycerol, dispersing, adding water, and stirring to obtain transparent solution.

2. Mixing synthetic oil, nano silicon treated titanium dioxide and inorganic toner, grinding twice with a three-roller machine or a colloid mill until pigment is dispersed uniformly, and adding into an emulsifying pot.

3. Sequentially adding octyl methoxycinnamate, tocopherol acetate, hectorite gel, polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer and polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer and silicone elastomer into an emulsifying pot, and stirring and homogenizing.

4. Slowly adding the 1-phase material into the emulsifying pot under medium-speed stirring, and homogenizing after uniformly stirring.

5. Slowly adding the silicon-treated pearl powder under the stirring state, uniformly stirring, and then discharging.

The contents of the effect test examples are as follows.

Examples of Effect test

First, 8 hours oil control effect experiment:

selecting 60 volunteers with oily or mixed skin, wherein the age is 20-35 years old, dividing the volunteers into 3 groups, and 20 people in each group, respectively smearing the product (examples 1-3) and a commercially available foundation (comparative example) on the left and right sides of the forehead of a tester, and then carrying out comparative analysis on the oil control effect and the use skin feel of the product after 8 hours in a room with the temperature of 20-25 ℃ and the humidity of 50-70%. Wherein, the effect is the condition of facial gloss, dryness and comfort, and the statistical result is shown in the following table 2:

TABLE 2 comparison of the effects of the products of the invention (examples 1-3) and the commercial foundation (control)

The experimental results are as follows:

the cosmetic compositions of examples 1, 2 and 3 were not found to be irritating or allergic during the trial, and 2 volunteers were allergic to commercially available foundations.

The test results demonstrate that the product of the invention (examples) has the capacity to reduce sebum secretion continuously and effectively for 8 hours, this effect being carried out throughout the test. The products in the examples improved gloss, dryness and comfort significantly more than the control (commercial foundation).

Second, testing the patch on human skin

The evaluation method comprises the following steps:

1) the test substance: example 1, example 2, and example 3.

2) Negative control: comparative example.

2) Subject: the total number of the people is 30, 12 men and 18 women, and the people are 25-35 years old and sensitive to skin.

3) The spot test method comprises the following steps: selecting a qualified spot tester, applying about 0.02-0.025 ml of a test object into the spot tester by a closed spot test method, externally applying a special adhesive tape to the curved side of the forearm of a subject, removing the test object after 24 hours, observing skin reaction 30min after the spot tester of the test object is removed, and recording the result according to the skin reaction grading standard in the cosmetic hygiene Specification (2007 edition).

4) And (4) evaluating the results: the results of the reactions are reported in Table 1 (criteria for grading adverse skin reactions) and are shown in Table 2 below.

TABLE 2 skin reaction conditions

5) And (3) test results:

the results of the cosmetic patch on human skin test are shown in table 3 below.

TABLE 3 cosmetic Patch test different skin reaction results

The result of the human body skin patch test shows that:

1. in example 1, example 2 and example 3, all of the skins of 30 subjects showed negative reactions (score scale: 0). According to the judgment standard of a human skin patch test in the cosmetic hygiene Specification (2007 edition), the sample has no adverse skin reaction on the human body.

2. Examples 1, 2 and 3 show that the foundation of the present invention is highly safe and does not cause any abnormal reaction even when used on a person with sensitive skin.

Third, product stability evaluation

1. Temperature stability test

1.146 ℃ stability test:

test samples: 3, the number of the medicine is less than that of the medicine.

And (3) testing time: for 12 weeks.

The test method comprises the following steps: the product (content) was filled in a 30ML PET bottle, labeled with information such as product name, formulation number, test conditions, test date, etc., placed in a biochemical incubator at 46 ℃ to test the heat resistance stability of the product, and changes in appearance, odor, and viscosity of the product were observed at 24 hours, 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks, and 12 weeks (returning to room temperature), respectively, and the changes at each time period were recorded in the report form table 4.

1.2 Room temperature stability test:

test samples: 3, the number of the medicine is less than that of the medicine.

And (3) testing time: for 12 weeks.

The test method comprises the following steps: the product (content) was put into a 30ML PET bottle, labeled with information such as product name, formulation number, test conditions, and test date, placed in a sample holder, and changes in appearance, odor, and viscosity of the product were observed at 24 hours (viscosity measurement), 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks, and 12 weeks, respectively, and the changes in each period were recorded in report table 4.

1.3-15 ℃ stability test:

test samples: 3, the number of the medicine is less than that of the medicine.

And (3) testing time: for 12 weeks.

The test method comprises the following steps: the product (content) was filled in a 30ML PET bottle, labeled with information such as product name, formulation number, test conditions, test date, etc., placed in a-15 ℃ refrigerator to test the cold resistance stability of the product, and changes in appearance, odor, and viscosity of the product were observed at 24 hours, 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks, and 12 weeks (return to room temperature), respectively, and the changes in each period were recorded in report table 4.

Table 4 product stability test report for examples 1-3

1.446 ℃ and-15 ℃ cycling stability test:

test samples: 3, the number of the medicine is less than that of the medicine.

And (3) testing time: three cycles of the test were continued (after first being left in a biochemical incubator at 46 ℃ for 24 hours, then being left in a refrigerator at-18 ℃ for 24 hours, and then being returned to room temperature for one cycle and the results were observed).

The test method comprises the following steps: the product (content) is filled into a 30ML PET bottle, a label is attached to indicate information such as product name, formula number, test condition, test date and the like, the bottle is placed in a biochemical incubator at 46 ℃ for 24 hours, the bottle is restored to the room temperature and placed for 24 hours, then the bottle is placed in a refrigerator at-15 ℃ for 24 hours, and then the bottle is restored to the room temperature. Changes in appearance, odor, viscosity, etc. of the product upon alternating cycles of cold and heat resistance were observed and recorded in report 5.

Table 5 product cycle stability testing of examples 1-3

Stability results: after the stability test for 12 weeks, the stability performance of the examples 1, 2 and 3 is good, and the relevant regulatory requirements are completely met.

The formula of the invention contains a large amount of oil absorption powder and volatile oil, and experimental results show that the foundation product of the type has very obvious differences in safety, skin feel, skin adhesion and efficacy compared with the traditional foundation product, and the innovative formula composition and good application performance can certainly become a popular trend of cosmetics.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the present invention in any way, so that any simple modification, equivalent change and modification made to the above embodiment according to the technical spirit of the present invention are within the scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. A foundation composition for dark skin color characterized by: the paint consists of the following components in percentage by weight:

2. A method of preparing a foundation composition for dark skin color comprising the steps of:

the component A comprises: 27.4 to 48.7 percent of cyclopentasiloxane, 5.0 to 10.0 percent of dextrin palmitate, 5.0 to 10.0 percent of cyclopentasiloxane & trimethylsiloxy silicate, 0.5 to 2.0 percent of dimethyl silylated silica, 2.0 to 10.0 percent of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 0.5 to 2.0 percent of sorbitan sesquioleate, 1.0 to 5.0 percent of C30 to 45-alkyl dimethyl alkyl poly propyl silsesquioxane and 1.0 to 5.0 percent of phenyl trimethyl siloxane;

the foundation composition is prepared by the following process steps:

3) adding the ground phase B component, and homogenizing at high speed for 10 minutes at 3000 r/min;

4) vacuumizing, sequentially adding the component C into an emulsifying pot under the stirring state of medium speed 600-700 rpm, continuously stirring for 15-20 min, homogenizing for 5-8 min at 2000 rpm, and cooling; stirring and cooling to below 60 deg.C, adding component D, homogenizing and stirring;

5) cooling to 55 deg.C, inspecting, discharging and packaging.