CN106539704B - A kind of Haircare composition containing wheat gluten, preparation method and the application in hair conditioner - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a hair care composition containing wheat protein, a preparation method and an application in hair conditioner, belonging to the technical field of cosmetics. It includes the following components by weight percentage: 3-8% of modified hydrolyzed wheat protein, 2-4% of silicone oil compounds, 1.5-3% of betaine-type amphoteric surfactants, 2-3% of cationic surfactants, Thickener 4-8%, water 75-85%. The invention provides a hair conditioner composition, which utilizes the advantages of hydrolyzed wheat protein to repair hair, improves the ease of combing after hair care, and can avoid the increase of silane deposition by modifying the hydrolyzed wheat protein. long-term hair damage.

Description

A hair care composition containing wheat protein, its preparation method and its use in hair conditioner application

technical field

The invention relates to a hair care composition containing wheat protein, a preparation method and an application in hair conditioner, belonging to the technical field of cosmetics.

Background technique

In recent years, with the improvement of people's living standards and the popularity of returning to nature, there are endless brands of hairdressing and hair care products on the market, and each brand tends to use many natural ingredients. Because in addition to the basic hairdressing and hair care purposes, consumers' requirements for hair products are more focused on the purpose of repairing, moisturizing and moisturizing the hair.

Hair contains a large amount of keratin, accounting for about 65% to 95% of hair. Many natural active proteins have a high affinity for hair, are easily absorbed by hair, have nutrition and film-forming effects, and are excellent hair conditioning agent. The function of protein in conditioning is closely related to its own structural composition and molecular weight. The key is that it forms hydrogen bonds with keratin in hair. Water-soluble protein especially has a certain repairing effect on damaged hair. This is due to the damage of the hair cuticle of damaged hair, which makes the protein exposed, the hydrophilicity of the hair increases, and it is easy to combine with water-soluble protein to form a protein film, which makes the hair easy to comb and shiny. Among the commercially available hydrolyzed vegetable proteins, the repairing effect of the hydrolyzed wheat protein with high molecular weight is particularly remarkable. Each chain of hydrolyzed wheat protein has a lot of cysteine, which can cross-link with cysteine in hair to form complex quaternization bonds. This process is similar to perming. Since the excellent properties of hydrolyzed wheat protein are of great significance for conditioning and protecting hair, it is widely used in hair care products such as repairing shampoo, cold perm, hair dye and conditioner, and in L'Oreal Vita shampoo after dyeing Active gluten was used.

There are many uneven hair scales on each hair. When the hair cuticle is damaged, it will lift up, which will increase the friction between the hair, causing the hair to tangle together, and more friction will aggravate the damage of the hair cuticle. Therefore, silicone oil (such as polydimethylsiloxane, PDMS) is added to most shampoos to make the silicone oil adhere to the gaps in the cuticles, fill the hair surface, and make the hair soft to the touch. However, for wheat protein, it has strong adsorption to silicone oil, which leads to a high content of silicon adsorbed and deposited on the hair surface after shampooing. As time goes by, the hair contains more silicone oil and loses its elasticity. Hair follicles are blocked and cannot metabolize normally.

Contents of the invention

The purpose of the present invention is to solve the problem of large amount of silicon adsorption on hair caused by shampoo/hair care products containing wheat protein and silicone oil. The invention modifies the wheat protein to make it have a certain repulsion to the silicone oil, overcomes the problem of large silicon adsorption, and improves the combability of the hair.

First aspect of the invention:

A hair care composition containing wheat protein, comprising the following components by weight percentage: 3-8% of modified hydrolyzed wheat protein, 2-4% of silicone oil compounds, 1.5-3% of betaine type amphoteric surfactant %, cationic surfactant 2-3%, thickener 4-8%, water 75-85%.

The modified hydrolyzed wheat protein is obtained after modifying the structure shown in formula (I) on the hydrolyzed protein;

Wherein, n is any integer between 20-400; m is any integer between 1-3.

The compound represented by the formula (I) is preferably methoxypolyethylene glycol propionaldehyde, with a molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 2000.

The preparation method of described modified hydrolyzed wheat protein comprises the steps:

Mix the compound represented by formula (I) with hydrolyzed wheat protein at a weight ratio of 1:10-15, dissolve the mixture in water to prepare a 5-10 g/L solution, then freeze-dry, and then heat up the obtained powder for reaction After the reaction, the modified hydrolyzed wheat protein is obtained.

The reaction at elevated temperature refers to the reaction under the conditions of 50-65° C. and 60-70% RH humidity, and the reaction time is 5-10 days.

The silicone oil compound is selected from one of polydimethylsiloxane, polyphenyltrimethicone, polyoctyldimethylsiloxane or polydiphenyldimethylsiloxane or a mixture of several.

The thickener is selected from gum arabic, galactan, guar gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, alginate, xanthan gum, dextran, starch, carboxymethyl starch, methyl hydroxypropyl starch, One or a mixture of methyl cellulose, methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose or hydroxymethyl cellulose.

The hair care composition further comprises at least one coloring agent, preservative, pH regulator, fragrance, foaming agent, essence, astringent, fungicide, insect repellent, bleaching agent, lightening agent, anti-dandruff agent, Fortifiers, fillers, barrier materials or biocides.

Second aspect of the present invention:

The preparation method of the hair care composition includes the steps of mixing and uniformly dispersing each component.

A third aspect of the present invention:

Application of the hair care composition in hair conditioner.

Beneficial effect

The invention provides a hair conditioner composition, which utilizes the advantages of hydrolyzed wheat protein to repair hair, improves the ease of combing after hair care, and can avoid the increase of silane deposition by modifying the hydrolyzed wheat protein. long-term hair damage.

Detailed ways

The present invention will be further described in detail through specific embodiments below. However, those skilled in the art will understand that the following examples are only used to illustrate the present invention, and should not be considered as limiting the scope of the present invention. If no specific technique or condition is indicated in the examples, it shall be carried out according to the technique or condition described in the literature in this field or according to the product specification. The reagents or instruments used were not indicated by the manufacturer, and they were all commercially available conventional products. Approximate terms used herein may be used throughout the specification and claims to modify any number of expressions, which permissible changes would result in a change in the basic function to which it is related. Accordingly, a value modified by a term such as "about" is not to be limited to the precise value specified. In at least some cases, the approximation may correspond to the precision of the instrument used to measure the value. Unless context or language dictates otherwise, range limitations may be combined and/or interchanged, and such ranges are identified to include all the subranges included herein. Except where indicated in the working examples or elsewhere, all numbers or expressions indicating amounts of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the specification and claims are to be understood in all cases as being protected by the word "about " Modification. As used herein, the words "comprises", "comprising", "having" or any other variation thereof are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a process, method, article, or apparatus comprising listed elements is not necessarily limited to those elements, but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to the process, method, article, or apparatus. Values expressed in range format should be understood in a flexible manner to include not only the values explicitly recited as the limits of the range, but also all individual values or subranges encompassed within that range, as if each value and subrange were expressly List out. For example, a concentration range of "about 0.1% to about 5%" should be understood to include not only the explicitly recited concentrations of about 0.1% to about 5%, but also individual concentrations within the indicated range (e.g., 1%, 2%, %, 3% and 4%) and subranges (eg, 0.1% to 0.5%, 1% to 2.2%, 3.3% to 4.4%).

The hydrolyzed wheat protein described in the present invention is the hydrolyzed wheat protein obtained by moderately hydrolyzing the wheat protein, CAS: 222400-28-4; it is used as the main active ingredient of the hair conditioner in the composition provided by the present invention, and acts as To repair damaged keratin on hair, it can be obtained by any hydrolysis method, such as enzymatic hydrolysis of water-soluble wheat protein, preferably hydrolyzed wheat protein with a molecular weight between 10,000 and 100,000 Da.

The hydrolyzed wheat protein provided in the present invention is mainly modified by the amino group produced after its hydrolysis, so that it can produce a certain repulsion to the silicone oil compound, so that after the hair care composition is washed, the silicon adsorption residue on the hair amount decreased. The modification here is mainly to use the aldehyde-containing compound shown in the following formula for grafting:

Wherein, n is any integer between 20-400; m is any integer between 1-3. The compound represented by formula (I) is preferably methoxy polyethylene glycol propionaldehyde, and the molecular weight range is 1000-2000.

The modification method is not particularly limited, for example: the compound represented by formula (I) is mixed with hydrolyzed wheat protein at a weight ratio of 1:10-15, the mixture is dissolved in water to prepare a 5-10 g/L solution, and then freeze-dried , the obtained powder is then heated up to react, and after the reaction is completed, the modified hydrolyzed wheat protein is obtained.

The aforementioned silicone oil substances are not particularly limited, and are flowable silicone substances with a viscosity measured at 25°C of less than 1,000,000 centipoise, preferably about 5 centipoise to about 1,000,000 centipoise, more preferably about 10 centipoise Poise to about 100,000 centipoise. Silicone oils suitable for use in the shampoo compositions of the present invention include polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polyethersiloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other insoluble, nonvolatile silicone fluids having hair conditioning properties can also be used. More preferably, one or more of polydimethylsiloxane, polyphenyltrimethicone, polyoctyldimethylsiloxane and polydiphenyldimethylsiloxane is used.

Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants suitable for use in the hair care compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, alkyl betaines, sultaines, alkyl amido betaines, amido sultaines, alkyl sultaines Alkaline, Hydroxysultaine and Alkylamidosultaine. In particular, betaine-type amphoteric surfactants for use in the hair care compositions of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of shea amidopropyl betaine, stearyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine and cocamidopropyl betaine, including any mixtures thereof. In addition, betaine-type amphoteric surfactants that can be used in the hair care composition of the present invention may also include, but are not limited to, the following alkyl betaines: cocoyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Lauryl Dimethyl Carboxymethyl Betaine, Lauryl Dimethyl Alpha-Carboxyethyl Betaine, Cetyl Dimethyl Carboxymethyl Betaine Alkali sodium salt, lauryl bis(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethyl betaine, octadecyl bis(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine Alkaline, lauryl bis(2-hydroxyethyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, amidopropyl betaine; the following alkyl sultaines: cocoyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, stearyl Alkyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl bis(2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl amido bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) ) propyl sultaines; amido hydroxy sultaines of the following: C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ hydrocarbyl amidopropyl hydroxy sultaines, especially C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ hydrocarbyl amidopropyl hydroxy sultaines Bases such as laurylamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, and alkylamidopropyl hydroxysultaines, and any mixtures thereof.

Cationic surfactants used in the present invention include cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium bromide Ammonium, Behenyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride, Behenyl Trimethyl Ammonium Bromide, Behenyl Trimethyl Ammonium Methyl Sulfate, Distearyl Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride, Dioleyl dimethyl ammonium bromide, cetyl behenyl dimethyl ammonium methyl sulfate, stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and other quaternary ammonium salts, stearyl lysine butyl Mono-N-long chain acyl basic amino acids such as ester/hydrochloride, N-coconut oil fatty acid acyl L-arginine ethyl/DL-pyrrolidone carboxylate, lauroyl-ornithine propyl ester/acetate Lower alkyl ester salts, decylguanidine acetate, 2-guanidinoethyl laurylamide hydrochloride, 2-guanidinobutyl stearamide/DL-pyrrolidone carboxylate and other guanidine derivatives, etc., and in Particularly preferred in the present invention is cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, behenyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, Alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and other quaternary ammonium salts, wherein preferred are alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, di Alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, etc.

As a thickener, its function is to make hair care products have a certain viscosity, without special limitation, it can be selected from mucopolysaccharides in chondroitin sulfate, hyaluronic acid, mucin, dermatan sulfate, heparin and keratan sulfate And its salts, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, guar gum, karaya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, quince seeds, seaweed gum, tarant gum, locust bean Gum, galactomannan and other plant-based polymers, xanthan gum, dextran, succinoglycan, pullulan and other microbial-based polymers, starch, carboxymethyl starch, methyl hydroxypropyl starch, etc. Starch polymer, methyl cellulose, methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, crystalline fiber Cellulose-based polymers such as cellulose and cellulose powder, alginic acid-based polymers such as sodium alginate and propylene glycol alginate, vinyl-based polymers such as carboxyvinyl polymers, and alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymers, poly Oxyethylene-based polymers, polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene copolymer-based polymers, acrylic-based polymers such as sodium polyacrylate and polyacrylamide, inorganic-based water-soluble polymers such as polyethyleneimine, bentonite, hectorite, and hectorite Sexual polymers, etc. Among them, cationic guar gum is preferred, which can be used in shampoos and conditioners. It has a breathable film on the appearance of the hair, has good styling and protection functions, and exhibits excellent antistatic properties after being adsorbed on the hair. Sexuality and conditioning effect, change the wet combing and dry combing properties of the hair, make the hair keep luster and softness for a long time, and have good elasticity.

In addition to the above ingredients, the hair care composition provided by the present invention may also contain at least one coloring agent, preservative, pH regulator, fragrance, foaming agent, essence, astringent, fungicide, insect repellent, bleaching agent, etc. agents, brighteners, antidandruff agents, fortifiers, fillers, barrier materials or biocides. The person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients and their amounts contained in the composition such that they do not impair the properties of the composition of the invention.

The compositions described above may be prepared by any suitable method. Those skilled in the art may directly mix the above-mentioned raw materials, or pre-mix some of them and further mix them with other combinations. Mixing can be performed at suitably high shear rates. "High shear mixing" means mixing under high shear conditions, typically at a shear rate of greater than or equal to about 1,000 s ^-1 , more typically greater than or equal to about 3,500 s ^-1 .

The preparation of embodiment 1 modified hydrolyzed wheat protein

Methoxypolyethylene glycol propionaldehyde, with a molecular weight range of 1000-2000, is mixed with hydrolyzed wheat protein with a molecular weight of about 10,000 at a weight ratio of 1:12, and the mixture is dissolved in water to prepare a solution of 5-10 g/L. Freeze-drying is then carried out, and the obtained powder is reacted at 55° C. and 70% RH for 8 days. After the reaction is completed, the modified hydrolyzed wheat protein is obtained. The preparation of embodiment 2 conditioner

8% of modified hydrolyzed wheat protein prepared in Example 1, 4% of polydimethylsiloxane, 3% of cocamidopropyl betaine, 3% of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cationic guacamole 7% gelatin, 75% water; the preparation method is: mix polydimethylsiloxane, cocamidopropyl betaine, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride with water, and heat up to 65°C , stirred for 15 minutes, then added modified hydrolyzed wheat protein and cationic guar gum, dispersed at a high speed of 2000s ^-1 at 40°C for 10 minutes, and cooled naturally.

The preparation of embodiment 3 conditioner

3% of modified hydrolyzed wheat protein prepared in Example 1, 2% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1.5% of cocamidopropyl betaine, 2% of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cationic citrullin 6.5% gelatin, 85% water; the preparation method is: mix polydimethylsiloxane, cocamidopropyl betaine, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride with water, and heat up to 70°C , stirred for 12 minutes, then added modified hydrolyzed wheat protein and cationic guar gum, carried out high-speed dispersion at a shear rate of 1500s ^-1 at 35°C for 12 minutes, and obtained after natural cooling.

The preparation of embodiment 4 conditioner

5% of modified hydrolyzed wheat protein prepared in Example 1, 3% of polydimethylsiloxane, 2% of cocamidopropyl betaine, 3% of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cationic guacamole 5% gelatin, 82% water; the preparation method is: after mixing polydimethylsiloxane, cocamidopropyl betaine, and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride with water, the temperature is raised to 60°C , stirred for 20 minutes, then added modified hydrolyzed wheat protein and cationic guar gum, carried out high-speed dispersion at a shear rate of 2500 s ^-1 at 35°C for 10 minutes, and obtained after natural cooling.

The preparation of comparative example 1 hair conditioner

The difference from Example 4 is that unmodified hydrolyzed wheat protein is used.

Preparation of Comparative Example 2 Conditioner

The difference from Example 4 is that no modified hydrolyzed wheat protein is added.

Adopt above-mentioned embodiment 2～4 and comparative example 1～2 conditioner to carry out hair care effect measurement to hair sample:

The relative humidity of the test environment is 40-60%. The tested hair is 30cm long, all from the same female volunteer, aged 25, with long hair and natural straight hair (undyed). In addition, a commercially available hair conditioner of a well-known brand was used as Comparative Example 3.

The hair was evenly coated with each conditioner sample, and gently rubbed for 2 minutes, then rinsed with 30°C water for 5 minutes, and the wet hair sample was dried naturally at a temperature of 25°C and 50% RH for 3 hours before testing.

Using a surface specific resistance tester, refer to the national standard GB/T16801-1997 and GB/T14342-93 to measure the softening agent of the fabric, use the surface specific resistance drop to evaluate the anti-static performance of the hair conditioner, the surface specific resistance The larger the drop, the better the antistatic performance.

Adopt LDY type antistatic instrument, refer to FZ/T01042-1996 Textile material electrostatic performance test method, use the decay time T1/2 (s) to evaluate the hair antistatic performance of the hair conditioner, the shorter the half-life, it shows that the above hair conditioner is antistatic The better the performance.

Use the Y151 fiber friction coefficient tester to measure the friction factor μ of the hair after using the above hair conditioner. The ratio of friction resistance to positive pressure is called static friction factor μs, and the ratio of average dynamic friction to normal pressure is called dynamic friction factor _μd . The smaller the friction factor, the better the smoothness of the hair and the better the combability.

The hair glossiness after using the hair conditioner is measured by a hair gloss meter, and the greater the unit glossiness, the better the hair glossiness.

Each sample was measured 3 times and the average value was taken.

As can be seen from the table, the hair after washing with the hair conditioner provided by the present invention can obviously improve its combability and glossiness. Compared with Example 1, it can be seen that by using modified hydrolyzed Wheat protein improves the smoothness of the hair surface.

Analysis and Determination of Deposited Siloxane Amount

The amount of silicone adsorbed on the hair was determined by ICP instrument analysis. The washed and dried hair of the above groups was cut into slices, and the adsorbed siloxane was extracted with o-xylene. Extracts were analyzed using an ICP instrument. The standards used were certified polydimethylsiloxane calibrations. The standard silicone concentration was calculated by multiplying the amount of silicone by the factor (2.64) determined from the pure standard.

Silane deposition amount (μg/g) Example 2 285 Example 3 293 Example 4 261 Comparative example 1 947 Comparative example 2 368 Comparative example 3 423

Comparing Comparative Example 1 with Comparative Example 2, it can be seen that after adding hydrolyzed wheat protein, the amount of deposition of silane on the hair will be promoted; The hydrolyzed protein after curing can significantly improve the repellency of silane and reduce the amount of silane deposited on the hair.

Claims (5)

1. A hair care composition containing wheat protein, characterized in that it comprises the following components by weight percentage: 3-8% of modified hydrolyzed wheat protein, 2-4% of silicone oil compounds, betaine-type amphoteric Surfactant 1.5-3%, cationic surfactant 2-3%, thickener 4-8%, water 75-85%; the modified hydrolyzed wheat protein is modified methoxy poly obtained after ethylene glycol propionaldehyde, and the molecular weight range of the described methoxypolyethylene glycol propionaldehyde is 1000-2000; the preparation method of the modified hydrolyzed wheat protein comprises the following steps: Glycol propionaldehyde and hydrolyzed wheat protein are mixed according to the weight ratio of 1:10~15, the mixture is dissolved in water to prepare a solution of 5~10g/L, and then freeze-dried, and the obtained powder is heated up for reaction. After the reaction, A modified hydrolyzed wheat protein is obtained. 2. The hair care composition containing wheat protein according to claim 1, characterized in that, the reaction by raising the temperature refers to the reaction at 50-65°C and 60-70%RH humidity conditions, and the reaction time is 5~10d. 3. The hair care composition containing wheat protein according to claim 1, wherein the silicone oil compound is selected from polydimethylsiloxane, polyphenyltrimethicone, polyoctyl One or more of polydimethylsiloxane or polydiphenyldimethylsiloxane. 4. The hair care composition containing wheat protein according to claim 1, wherein the thickener is selected from gum arabic, galactan, guar gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, alginate, One of xanthan gum, dextran, starch, carboxymethyl starch, methyl hydroxypropyl starch, methyl cellulose, methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose or hydroxymethyl cellulose or a mixture of several. 5. The hair care composition containing wheat protein according to claim 1, characterized in that, the hair care composition further comprises at least one colorant, preservative, pH regulator, fragrance, foaming agent, essence , astringent, fungicide, insect repellent, bleach, lightener, anti-dandruff agent, fortifier, filler, barrier material or biocide.