CN106192179A - A kind of vinegar green grass or young crops fiber functional knitting fabric and method for weaving - Google Patents
A kind of vinegar green grass or young crops fiber functional knitting fabric and method for weaving Download PDFInfo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
- D02G3/045—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from artificial or synthetic material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/16—Physical properties antistatic; conductive
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/02—Underwear
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
本发明公开了一种醋青纤维功能性针织织物及织造方法,涉及纺织领域,织物的正面提花,中层涤纶紧密连接,反面采用醋青纤维混纺纱;并且,所述织物以提花穿纱结合变化罗纹组织与变化平针组织进行织造;所述变化罗纹组织采用腈纶‑粘胶混纺纱股线、棉‑锦纶6混纺纱股线及涤纶交替编织,所述变化平针组织采用醋青纤维混纺纱在针盘编织,所述醋青纤维混纺纱为醋青‑莫代尔‑维劳夫特混纺纱;使织物防静电、抗起球、保暖、导湿性能和平整舒适度均有明显提高。
The invention discloses a green acetate fiber functional knitted fabric and a weaving method, and relates to the textile field. The front side of the fabric is jacquard, the middle layer of polyester is closely connected, and the reverse side is made of acetate green fiber blended yarn; and the fabric is combined with jacquard threading and yarn Weaving with changing rib weave and changing flat stitch; the changing rib weave is alternately woven with acrylic-viscose blended yarn strands, cotton-nylon 6 blended yarn strands and polyester, and the changing flat stitch is made of vinegar green The fiber blended yarn is woven on the dial, and the vinegar green fiber blended yarn is vinegar green-modal-velauft blended yarn; the fabric is antistatic, anti-pilling, warm, moisture-wicking and flat and comfortable. There is a significant improvement.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及纺织领域,具体涉及一种醋青纤维功能性针织织物及织造方法。The invention relates to the field of textiles, in particular to a functional knitted fabric of acetate green fiber and a weaving method.
背景技术Background technique
随着物质生活水平的提高,人们对于生活必需品的要求在不断地提升。同时,对于纺织品的要求不再是简单的舒适、美观;而是要求纺织服装更时尚,性能更加多样化。伴随着国家经济的发展,纺织行业也力求改革、创新,在原有的纺织业基础上,克服传统纺织品缺点,创造出性能得到改进的新型纺织品。With the improvement of material living standards, people's requirements for daily necessities are constantly improving. At the same time, the requirements for textiles are no longer simply comfortable and beautiful; instead, textiles and clothing are required to be more fashionable and have more diversified performances. Along with the development of the national economy, the textile industry is also striving for reform and innovation. On the basis of the original textile industry, it overcomes the shortcomings of traditional textiles and creates new textiles with improved performance.
针织工业中常用的纤维均有各自的优点,也有其不可避免的不足之处。腈纶是合成纤维的主要品种之一。其质地膨松,手感柔软,密度小,保暖性能好,回弹性高,有人造羊毛之称,是羊毛的最佳代用品。并且,腈纶具有优异的耐光性、耐候性、耐虫蛀性、耐辐射性、抗微生物降解性和较好的染色性。但其易产生静电且易起毛起球。常规腈纶的体积比电阻为1013-1014Ω·cm,属绝缘材料。后加工时,因其摩擦产生静电,集束困难,与工件发生缠绕。制成成品后易沾污吸尘,穿着时因放电使人产生不舒服感。故基本上仅用于毛纺领域。这就限制了腈纶本身及腈纶纺织品的发展。常见腈纶抗静电处理一般在生产过程中采用表面施加抗静电剂的方法。但该方法仅获得暂时抗静电效果,且只能满足局部加工需要。其效果在湿热处理(包括洗涤、染色和汽蒸)中会丧失,时效性较短。因此研制和生产永久性新型功能性腈纶纤维以满足未来纺织品的要求成为中国现代纺织品的发展趋势。The fibers commonly used in the knitting industry have their own advantages, but also have their inevitable shortcomings. Acrylic fiber is one of the main varieties of synthetic fibers. Its texture is bulky, soft to the touch, low density, good thermal performance, and high resilience. It is known as artificial wool and is the best substitute for wool. Moreover, acrylic fibers have excellent light resistance, weather resistance, insect resistance, radiation resistance, microbial degradation resistance and good dyeability. But it is easy to generate static electricity and easy to fluff and pilling. The volume specific resistance of conventional acrylic fiber is 10 13 -10 14 Ω·cm, which is an insulating material. During post-processing, because of static electricity generated by friction, it is difficult to bundle and entangle with the workpiece. After being made into a finished product, it is easy to be stained and vacuumed, and when worn, people feel uncomfortable due to electric discharge. Therefore, it is basically only used in the field of wool spinning. This has just limited the development of acrylic fiber itself and acrylic fiber textiles. Common acrylic antistatic treatment generally adopts the method of applying antistatic agent on the surface during the production process. However, this method only obtains a temporary antistatic effect, and can only meet local processing needs. Its effect will be lost in wet heat treatment (including washing, dyeing and steaming), and the timeliness is shorter. Therefore, the development and production of permanent new functional acrylic fibers to meet the requirements of future textiles has become the development trend of China's modern textiles.
发明内容Contents of the invention
本发明为解决现有技术存在的问题和不足,保证腈纶类针织产品具有优异的防静电、抗起球性能,提供一种醋青纤维功能性针织织物及织造方法,使织物防静电、抗起球、保暖、导湿性能和平整舒适度均有明显提高。In order to solve the problems and deficiencies existing in the prior art, the present invention ensures that acrylic knitted products have excellent antistatic and anti-pilling properties, and provides a functional knitting fabric of acetate green fiber and a weaving method, so that the fabric is antistatic and anti-pilling. The ball, warmth, moisture-wicking performance and flat comfort have all been significantly improved.
本发明的目的是通过以下技术方案来实现的:The purpose of the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions:
一种醋青纤维功能性针织织物,织物的正面提花,中层涤纶紧密连接,反面采用醋青纤维混纺纱;A functional knit fabric of acetate blue fiber, the front side of the fabric is jacquard, the middle layer of polyester is closely connected, and the reverse side is made of acetate blue fiber blended yarn;
并且,所述织物以提花穿纱结合变化罗纹组织与变化平针组织进行织造;所述变化罗纹组织采用腈纶-粘胶混纺纱股线、棉-锦纶6混纺纱股线及涤纶交替编织,所述变化平针组织采用醋青纤维混纺纱在针盘编织,所述醋青纤维混纺纱为醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱。Moreover, the fabric is woven with jacquard threading combined with variable rib weave and variable flat stitch; the variable rib weave is alternately woven with acrylic-viscose blended yarn strands, cotton-nylon 6 blended yarn strands, and polyester , the variable plain stitch is woven on the dial by using acetate green fiber blended yarn, and the acetate green fiber blended yarn is acetate green-modal-Veloft blended yarn.
优选的,所述正面的提花呈锯齿波纹状,反面呈波点横条状。Preferably, the jacquard on the front side is in the shape of zigzag corrugations, and the back side is in the shape of polka dot horizontal stripes.
本发明充分发挥各种纤维的功能,具有柔软舒适,抗起球,吸湿透气,防静电,保暖性好等多重功效。同时,本发明利用纱线材质组合及有机排列,保证面料凹凸感辨识度的前提下;使布面平整,抚摸摩擦度降低,舒适度增强。因此,该织物是一款集功能性、辨识度与舒适性相结合的双面双层针织内衣、家居服、休闲服面料。The invention gives full play to the functions of various fibers, and has multiple functions such as softness and comfort, anti-pilling, moisture absorption and ventilation, anti-static, and good warmth retention. At the same time, the invention utilizes the combination and organic arrangement of yarn materials to ensure the recognition of the concave-convex feeling of the fabric; the fabric surface is made smooth, the friction degree of touching is reduced, and the comfort is enhanced. Therefore, the fabric is a double-sided double-layer knitted underwear, home wear and casual wear fabric that combines functionality, recognition and comfort.
作为对上述技术方案的改进:所述腈纶-粘胶混纺纱股线为线密度(9.1-9.8)tex的腈纶-粘胶×3股线,腈纶:粘胶的混纺占比为(60:40)%;As an improvement to the above-mentioned technical scheme: the strands of the acrylic-viscose blended yarn are acrylic-viscose × 3 strands with a linear density of (9.1-9.8) tex, and the blending ratio of acrylic fiber: viscose is (60: 40)%;
所述棉-锦纶6混纺纱股线为线密度(13.0-14.6)tex的棉-锦纶6×2股线,棉:锦纶6的混纺占比为(78:22)%;The cotton-nylon 6 blended yarn strands are cotton-nylon 6 × 2 strands of linear density (13.0-14.6) tex, and the blending ratio of cotton: nylon 6 is (78:22)%;
所述涤纶为(45-50)D-72F涤纶;Described polyester is (45-50) D-72F polyester;
所述醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱为线密度(9.1-9.8)tex的醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱,醋青:莫代尔:维劳夫特的混纺占比为(50:30:20)%。The vinegar green-modal-Veloft blended yarn is the vinegar green-modal-Veloft blended yarn of linear density (9.1-9.8) tex, vinegar green: modal: the blending ratio of Velvet is (50:30:20)%.
在本发明中,所述混纺占比为纱线中各组分在标准温湿度下的重量占比。在所述标准温湿度下具体为在(20±2)℃及(62%RH-68%RH)的条件下。In the present invention, the blended proportion is the weight proportion of each component in the yarn under standard temperature and humidity. The standard temperature and humidity is specifically under the conditions of (20±2)°C and (62%RH-68%RH).
优选的,毛坯克重为(260±10)g/m2,纵密为38±2横列/50mm,横密为38±2纵行/50mm,下机幅宽为152cm±5cm。Preferably, the grammage of the blank is (260±10) g/m2, the longitudinal density is 38±2 rows/50mm, the transverse density is 38±2 rows/50mm, and the width of the lower machine is 152cm±5cm.
一种醋青纤维功能性针织织物的织造方法,其工艺包括:将该织物正面提花,中层紧密连接涤纶,反面采用醋青纤维混纺纱进行织造;A method for weaving a functional knitted fabric of acetate blue fiber, the process comprising: jacquard the front of the fabric, the middle layer is closely connected with polyester, and the reverse side is weaved with acetate blue fiber blended yarn;
并且,所述织物以提花穿纱结合变化罗纹组织与变化平针组织进行织造;所述变化罗纹组织采用腈纶-粘胶混纺纱股线、棉-锦纶6混纺纱股线及涤纶交替编织,所述变化平针组织采用醋青纤维混纺纱在针盘编织,所述醋青纤维混纺纱采用醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱。Moreover, the fabric is woven with jacquard threading combined with variable rib weave and variable flat stitch; the variable rib weave is alternately woven with acrylic-viscose blended yarn strands, cotton-nylon 6 blended yarn strands, and polyester , the variable plain stitch is woven on the dial by using acetate green fiber blended yarn, and the acetate green fiber blended yarn is made of acetate green-modal-Veloft blended yarn.
优选的,所用纱线原料及规格参数包括:Preferably, the used yarn raw materials and specification parameters include:
所述腈纶-粘胶混纺纱股线为线密度(9.1-9.8)tex的腈纶-粘胶×3股线,腈纶:粘胶的混纺占比为(60:40)%;The acrylic-viscose blended yarn strands are acrylic-viscose × 3 strands with a linear density of (9.1-9.8) tex, and the blending ratio of acrylic fiber: viscose is (60:40)%;
所述棉-锦纶6混纺纱股线为线密度(13.0-14.6)tex的棉-锦纶6×2股线,棉:锦纶6的混纺占比为(78:22)%;The cotton-nylon 6 blended yarn strands are cotton-nylon 6 × 2 strands of linear density (13.0-14.6) tex, and the blending ratio of cotton: nylon 6 is (78:22)%;
所述涤纶为50D-72F涤纶;The polyester is 50D-72F polyester;
所述醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱为线密度(9.1-9.8)tex的醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱,醋青:莫代尔:维劳夫特的混纺占比为(50:30:20)%。The vinegar green-modal-Veloft blended yarn is the vinegar green-modal-Veloft blended yarn of linear density (9.1-9.8) tex, vinegar green: modal: the blending ratio of Velvet is (50:30:20)%.
在优选的实施方式中,本发明采用双面(2+4)跑道针织机进行编织,其穿纱方式包括:In a preferred embodiment, the present invention uses a double-sided (2+4) track knitting machine to weave, and its threading method includes:
第1、9路穿入所述(45-50)D-72F涤纶,第2、4、6、8、10、12、14和16路穿入所述醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱,第3、7和13路穿入所述棉-锦纶6混纺纱股线,第5、11和15路穿入所述腈纶-粘胶混纺纱股线。The 1st and 9th routes penetrate the (45-50) D-72F polyester, and the 2nd, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 and 16 routes penetrate the vinegar green-modal-Veloft blend Spinning, the 3rd, 7th and 13th pass through the strands of the cotton-polyamide 6 blended yarn, and the 5th, 11th and 15th pass through the strands of the acrylic-viscose blended yarn.
优选的,进线长度包括:第1和9路为(280±2)mm/100针;第2、4、6、8、10、12、14和16路为(320±2)mm/100针;第3、7和13路为(305±2)mm/100针;第5、11和15路为(305±2)mm/100针。Preferably, the length of the incoming line includes: (280±2)mm/100 needles for the 1st and 9th routes; (320±2)mm/100 for the 2nd, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 and 16th routes needles; (305±2)mm/100 needles for the 3rd, 7th and 13th circuits; (305±2)mm/100 needles for the 5th, 11th and 15th circuits.
优选的,进纱张力为3-4cN。由于采用平针和集圈组织结合,两种纱线的垫纱角度非常重要,因此应当合理调节导纱钢梭位置。进纱张力优选控制为3.5cN,以免出现横档。Preferably, the yarn feeding tension is 3-4cN. Due to the combination of flat stitch and tuck weave, the laying angle of the two yarns is very important, so the position of the yarn guiding steel shuttle should be adjusted reasonably. The yarn feeding tension is preferably controlled at 3.5cN to avoid rungs.
优选调节每一路提花的张力,分三个档位进行调节织布,防止料布破洞。It is preferable to adjust the tension of each jacquard, and adjust the weaving in three gears to prevent holes in the fabric.
输纱器优选采用无张力输纱器及积极式输纱,确保面料弹性及风格。The yarn feeder preferably adopts a tension-free yarn feeder and a positive yarn feeder to ensure the elasticity and style of the fabric.
进一步,织造所得织物:毛坯克重为(260±10)g/m2,纵密为38±2横列/50mm,横密为38±2纵行/50mm,下机幅宽为152cm±5cm。Further, the fabric obtained by weaving: the grammage of the blank is (260±10) g/m 2 , the longitudinal density is 38±2 rows/50mm, the transverse density is 38±2 rows/50mm, and the width of the lower machine is 152cm±5cm.
本发明通过原料的选择和合理的组织结构以及织造工艺路线,采用醋青纤维为基本组分,与粘胶、莫代尔、维劳夫特、涤纶、棉和锦纶6混纺纱进行交织,使针织织物防静电、抗起球、导湿及保暖功能均有明显提高。Through the selection of raw materials, reasonable organization structure and weaving process route, the present invention adopts acetate fiber as the basic component, and interweaves with viscose, modal, velvet, polyester, cotton and nylon 6 blended yarns to make knitting The anti-static, anti-pilling, moisture-wicking and warm-keeping functions of the fabric have been significantly improved.
本发明与现有技术相比具有以下优点和积极效果:Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following advantages and positive effects:
1、本发明选用醋青纤维是聚丙烯腈与醋酸纤维素以分子级相结合而制成的一种纤维,并且本发明所选用规格纤维截面呈近似圆形,经过对比更加接近于羊绒纤维截面,既保留了腈纶纤维及纤维素纤维蓬松、柔软、滑爽,及强度高的特性优势,又具有良好的尺寸稳定性、保暖性和抗静电性。1. The present invention selects acetate green fiber, which is a kind of fiber made by combining polyacrylonitrile and cellulose acetate at the molecular level, and the selected specification fiber cross-section of the present invention is approximately circular, and is closer to the cashmere fiber cross-section through comparison. , not only retains the fluffy, soft, smooth, and high strength characteristics of acrylic fiber and cellulose fiber, but also has good dimensional stability, warmth retention and antistatic properties.
2、本发明针织物是以醋青纤维为基本组分,选用了醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特(Viloft)混纺纱与腈纶-粘胶混纺股线、棉-锦纶混纺股线、涤纶长丝四种纱线进行混合交织,使加工出的产品,不仅能充分发挥醋青纤维所具有的特殊功效,而且将多种纤维优势互补,功能性和舒适性远比普通针织品优越,可广泛用于针织内衣、家居装和休闲装。2. The knitted fabric of the present invention is based on vinegar blue fiber, selected vinegar blue-modal-Viloft (Viloft) blended yarn and acrylic-viscose blended strands, cotton-nylon blended strands, polyester The four kinds of filament yarns are mixed and interwoven, so that the processed products can not only give full play to the special effects of acetate fiber, but also complement the advantages of various fibers. The functionality and comfort are far superior to ordinary knitwear. Widely used in knitted underwear, home wear and casual wear.
3、本发明织造方法以提花穿纱结合变化罗纹与变化平针的复合组织进行织造,利用纱线的有机排列,使面料正面形成锯齿波纹状,反面波点横条状,在保证凹凸感辨识度的前提下提高布面平整舒适度。3. The weaving method of the present invention uses a composite structure of jacquard yarn threading combined with variable rib and variable plain stitches for weaving. The organic arrangement of yarns is used to form a zigzag corrugated shape on the front side of the fabric and a horizontal stripe shape with wave points on the reverse side, ensuring the identification of concave and convex. Improve the flatness and comfort of the cloth surface under the premise of high degree of comfort.
4、本发明针织织物达到保暖针织内衣内在质量技术要求。而且本发明各项功能性指标都超过了现行产品水平,防静电,抗起球效果明显。本发明针织织物是一款集功能性、辨识度与舒适性相结合的双面双层针织内衣、家居服和休闲服高附加值产品面料,对提高市场竞争力,增加经济效益具有重要意义。4. The knitted fabric of the present invention meets the internal quality technical requirements of thermal knitted underwear. Moreover, each functional index of the present invention exceeds the current product level, and the anti-static and anti-pilling effects are obvious. The knitted fabric of the present invention is a double-faced double-layer knitted fabric with high added value for underwear, home clothes and leisure clothes that combines functionality, recognition and comfort, and is of great significance for improving market competitiveness and increasing economic benefits.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1为本发明实施例醋青纤维功能性针织织物所采用织造方法的织针排列示意图。Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the arrangement of knitting needles used in the weaving method of the acetate blue fiber functional knitted fabric of the embodiment of the present invention.
图2为本发明实施例醋青纤维功能性针织织物实施例所采用织造方法的三角排列图。Fig. 2 is a triangular arrangement diagram of the weaving method adopted in the embodiment of the acetate green fiber functional knitted fabric embodiment of the present invention.
图3为本发明实施例醋青纤维功能性针织织物的编织花型正面意匠图示意图,□表示棉-锦纶6、腈纶-粘胶混纺纱浮点,表示涤纶纱浮点。Fig. 3 is the schematic diagram of the weaving pattern front of the green fiber functional knitted fabric of the embodiment of the present invention, □ represents the floating point of cotton-polyamide fiber 6, acrylic fiber-viscose blended yarn, Indicates polyester yarn floating point.
图4为本发明实施例醋青纤维功能性针织织物的纱线编织结构示意图。Fig. 4 is a schematic diagram of the yarn weaving structure of the acetate green fiber functional knitted fabric of the embodiment of the present invention.
图5为本发明实施例醋青纤维功能性针织织物的正面花型示意图。Fig. 5 is a schematic diagram of the front pattern of the acetate blue fiber functional knitted fabric of the embodiment of the present invention.
图6为本发明实施例醋青纤维功能性针织织物的反面花型示意图。Fig. 6 is a schematic view of the reverse pattern of the acetate green fiber functional knitted fabric of the embodiment of the present invention.
其中,在附图中相同的部件用相同的附图标记;附图并未按照实际的比例绘制。Wherein, the same components are marked with the same reference numerals in the drawings; the drawings are not drawn according to the actual scale.
具体实施方式detailed description
下面结合附图和实施例对本发明作进一步详细描述。The present invention will be described in further detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and embodiments.
实施例Example
一种醋青纤维功能性针织织物,织物的正面提花,中层涤纶紧密连接,反面采用醋青纤维混纺纱;A functional knit fabric of acetate blue fiber, the front side of the fabric is jacquard, the middle layer of polyester is closely connected, and the reverse side is made of acetate blue fiber blended yarn;
并且,所述织物以提花穿纱结合变化罗纹组织与变化平针组织进行织造;所述变化罗纹组织采用腈纶-粘胶混纺纱股线、棉-锦纶6混纺纱股线及涤纶交替编织,所述变化平针组织采用醋青纤维混纺纱在针盘编织,所述醋青纤维混纺纱为醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱。Moreover, the fabric is woven with jacquard threading combined with variable rib weave and variable flat stitch; the variable rib weave is alternately woven with acrylic-viscose blended yarn strands, cotton-nylon 6 blended yarn strands, and polyester , the variable plain stitch is woven on the dial by using acetate green fiber blended yarn, and the acetate green fiber blended yarn is acetate green-modal-Veloft blended yarn.
所述正面的提花呈锯齿波纹状,反面呈波点横条状。The jacquard on the front side is in the shape of zigzag corrugations, and the back side is in the shape of polka dots and horizontal stripes.
本实施例充分发挥各种纤维的功能,具有柔软舒适,抗起球,吸湿透气,防静电,保暖性好等多重功效。同时,本实施例利用纱线材质组合及有机排列,保证面料凹凸感辨识度的前提下;使布面平整,抚摸摩擦度降低,舒适度增强。因此,该织物是一款集功能性、辨识度与舒适性相结合的双面双层针织内衣、家居服、休闲服面料。This embodiment gives full play to the functions of various fibers, and has multiple functions such as softness and comfort, anti-pilling, moisture absorption and breathability, anti-static, and good warmth retention. At the same time, this embodiment uses the combination and organic arrangement of yarn materials to ensure the recognition of the unevenness of the fabric; the fabric surface is smooth, the friction degree of touching is reduced, and the comfort is enhanced. Therefore, the fabric is a double-sided double-layer knitted underwear, home wear and casual wear fabric that combines functionality, recognition and comfort.
所述腈纶-粘胶混纺纱股线为线密度(9.1-9.8)tex的腈纶-粘胶×3股线,腈纶:粘胶的混纺占比为(60:40)%;The acrylic-viscose blended yarn strands are acrylic-viscose × 3 strands with a linear density of (9.1-9.8) tex, and the blending ratio of acrylic fiber: viscose is (60:40)%;
所述棉-锦纶6混纺纱股线为线密度(13.0-14.6)tex的棉-锦纶6×2股线,棉:锦纶6的混纺占比为(78:22)%;The cotton-nylon 6 blended yarn strands are cotton-nylon 6 × 2 strands of linear density (13.0-14.6) tex, and the blending ratio of cotton: nylon 6 is (78:22)%;
所述涤纶为(45-50)D-72F涤纶;Described polyester is (45-50) D-72F polyester;
所述醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱为线密度(9.1-9.8)tex的醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱,醋青:莫代尔:维劳夫特的混纺占比为(50:30:20)%。The vinegar green-modal-Veloft blended yarn is the vinegar green-modal-Veloft blended yarn of linear density (9.1-9.8) tex, vinegar green: modal: the blending ratio of Velvet is (50:30:20)%.
上述醋青纤维功能性针织织物的织造方法,其工艺包括:将该织物正面提花,中层紧密连接涤纶,反面采用醋青纤维混纺纱进行织造;The weaving method of the above-mentioned acetate blue fiber functional knitted fabric, the process includes: jacquard the fabric on the front, the middle layer is closely connected with polyester, and the back side is woven with acetate blue fiber blended yarn;
并且,所述织物以提花穿纱结合变化罗纹组织与变化平针组织进行织造;所述变化罗纹组织采用腈纶-粘胶混纺纱股线、棉-锦纶6混纺纱股线及涤纶交替编织,所述变化平针组织采用醋青纤维混纺纱在针盘编织,所述醋青纤维混纺纱采用醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱。Moreover, the fabric is woven with jacquard threading combined with variable rib weave and variable flat stitch; the variable rib weave is alternately woven with acrylic-viscose blended yarn strands, cotton-nylon 6 blended yarn strands, and polyester , the variable plain stitch is woven on the dial by using acetate green fiber blended yarn, and the acetate green fiber blended yarn is made of acetate green-modal-Veloft blended yarn.
所用纱线原料及规格参数包括:The raw materials and specifications of the yarn used include:
所述腈纶-粘胶混纺纱股线为线密度(9.1-9.8)tex的腈纶-粘胶×3股线,腈纶:粘胶的混纺占比为(60:40)%;The acrylic-viscose blended yarn strands are acrylic-viscose × 3 strands with a linear density of (9.1-9.8) tex, and the blending ratio of acrylic fiber: viscose is (60:40)%;
所述棉-锦纶6混纺纱股线为线密度(13.0-14.6)tex的棉-锦纶6×2股线,棉:锦纶6的混纺占比为(78:22)%;The cotton-nylon 6 blended yarn strands are cotton-nylon 6 × 2 strands of linear density (13.0-14.6) tex, and the blending ratio of cotton: nylon 6 is (78:22)%;
所述涤纶为(45-50)D-72F涤纶;Described polyester is (45-50) D-72F polyester;
所述醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱为线密度(9.1-9.8)tex的醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱,醋青:莫代尔:维劳夫特的混纺占比为(50:30:20)%。The vinegar green-modal-Veloft blended yarn is the vinegar green-modal-Veloft blended yarn of linear density (9.1-9.8) tex, vinegar green: modal: the blending ratio of Velvet is (50:30:20)%.
(一)本实施例具体织造工艺包括:(1) The specific weaving process of the present embodiment includes:
1、设备参数1. Equipment parameters
机型:双面(2+4)跑道针织机Model: double-sided (2+4) runway knitting machine
机号:20针/25.4mmMachine size: 20 needles/25.4mm
筒径:864mm(34英寸)Barrel diameter: 864mm (34 inches)
针数:2088×2枚Number of stitches: 2088×2 pieces
路数:72FNumber of channels: 72F
2、针织排列:2. Knitting arrangement:
如图1所示,针盘织针按AB排列,针筒织针按C排列。As shown in Figure 1, the dial knitting needles are arranged in AB, and the cylinder knitting needles are arranged in C.
图中:A表示针盘低锺针;B表示针盘高锺针;C表示针筒织针。In the figure: A represents the low clock needle of the dial; B represents the high clock needle of the dial; C represents the knitting needle of the cylinder.
3、选针原理:3. Needle selection principle:
针盘通过三角进行选针,针筒通过花盘上安装的钢米进行选针。The dial selects needles through the triangle, and the needle cylinder selects the needles through the steel meters installed on the faceplate.
4、三角排列图4. Triangular Arrangement Chart
如图2所示,“ㄇ”为集圈三角;“∧”、“∨”为成圈三角;“—”为浮线三角。As shown in Figure 2, "ㄇ" is a tucking triangle; "∧" and "∨" are circling triangles; "—" is a floating triangle.
5、穿纱方式5. Yarn threading method
第1、9路穿入所述(45-50)D-72F涤纶,优选50D,The 1st and 9th roads penetrate the (45-50) D-72F polyester, preferably 50D,
第2、4、6、8、10、12、14和16路穿入所述(9.1-9.8)tex醋青-莫代尔-维劳夫特混纺纱,优选9.8tex,The 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, 14th and 16th pass through the (9.1-9.8) tex acetone-modal-veiloft blended yarn, preferably 9.8tex,
第3、7和13路穿入所述(13.0-14.6)tex棉-锦纶6混纺纱股线,优选14.6tex,The 3rd, 7th and 13th pass through the (13.0-14.6) tex cotton-nylon 6 blended yarn strands, preferably 14.6tex,
第5、11和15路穿入所述(9.1-9.8)tex腈纶-粘胶混纺纱股线,优选9.8tex。The 5th, 11th and 15th pass through the (9.1-9.8) tex acrylic fiber-viscose blended yarn strands, preferably 9.8tex.
6、醋青纤维功能性针织织物的编织花型正面意匠图示意图如图3所示。□表示棉-锦纶6、腈纶-粘胶混纺纱浮点,表示涤纶纱浮点。6. The schematic diagram of the front view of the weaving pattern of the vinegar green fiber functional knitted fabric is shown in Figure 3. □ means cotton-nylon 6, acrylic-viscose blended yarn floating point, Indicates polyester yarn floating point.
7、醋青纤维功能性针织织物的纱线编织结构示意图如图4所示。7. The schematic diagram of the yarn weaving structure of the vinegar green fiber functional knitted fabric is shown in Figure 4.
8、醋青纤维功能性针织织物的正面花型示意图如图5所示。8. The schematic diagram of the front pattern of the vinegar green fiber functional knitted fabric is shown in Figure 5.
9、醋青纤维功能性针织织物的反面花型示意图如图6所示。9. The schematic diagram of the reverse pattern of the vinegar green fiber functional knitted fabric is shown in Figure 6.
10、技术参数10. Technical parameters
经多次试验,根据原料配比、纱线线密度及面料规格和用途,在以下范围内进行适量调整和优选:After many tests, according to the ratio of raw materials, yarn linear density, fabric specifications and uses, appropriate adjustments and optimizations are made within the following ranges:
(1)进线长度:(1) Line length:
第1和9路为(280±2)mm/100针,优选281mm/100针;The 1st and 9th routes are (280±2)mm/100 needles, preferably 281mm/100 needles;
第2、4、6、8、10、12、14和16路为(320±2)mm/100针,优选为320mm/100针;The 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, 14th and 16th roads are (320±2) mm/100 needles, preferably 320mm/100 needles;
第3、7和13路为(305±2)mm/100针,优选为303mm/100针;The 3rd, 7th and 13th roads are (305±2)mm/100 needles, preferably 303mm/100 needles;
第5、11和15路为(305±2)mm/100针,优选为305mm/100针。The 5th, 11th and 15th roads are (305±2)mm/100 needles, preferably 305mm/100 needles.
(2)织物密度:纵密38±2横列/50mm,优选38横列/50mm,横密38±2纵行/50mm,优选38纵行/50mm。(2) Fabric density: longitudinal density 38±2 rows/50mm, preferably 38 rows/50mm, transverse density 38±2 rows/50mm, preferably 38 rows/50mm.
(3)毛坯克重:(260±10)g/m2。(3) Blank weight: (260±10)g/m 2 .
(4)下机幅宽:152cm±5cm。(4) Width of the lower machine: 152cm±5cm.
(二)本实施例技术关键(2) The technical key of this embodiment
(1)进纱张力为3-4cN。由于采用平针和集圈组织结合,两种纱线的垫纱角度非常重要,因此应当合理调节导纱钢梭位置。进纱张力优选控制为3.5cN,以免出现横档。(1) The yarn feeding tension is 3-4cN. Due to the combination of flat stitch and tuck weave, the laying angle of the two yarns is very important, so the position of the yarn guiding steel shuttle should be adjusted reasonably. The yarn feeding tension is preferably controlled at 3.5cN to avoid rungs.
(2)注意调节每一路提花的张力,分三个档位进行调节织布,防止料布破洞。(2) Pay attention to adjust the tension of each jacquard, and adjust the weaving in three gears to prevent holes in the fabric.
(3)输纱器采用无张力输纱器,并采用积极式输纱,确保面料弹性及风格。(3) The yarn feeder adopts a tension-free yarn feeder and a positive yarn feeder to ensure the elasticity and style of the fabric.
(三)、产品主要技术指标(three), the main technical indicators of the product
对本实施例按FZ/T 73022-2012《针织保暖内衣》、GB/T23316-2009《工作服防静电性能的要求及试验方法》标准进行了功能性测试,其功能性指标测试结果见表1。According to the standards of FZ/T 73022-2012 "Knitted Thermal Underwear" and GB/T23316-2009 "Requirements and Test Methods for Anti-static Performance of Work Clothes", the functional test results of this example are shown in Table 1.
表1功能性指标Table 1 Functional indicators
如表1所示,本实施例醋青纤维针织物具有良好的透气性、抗起球、防静电性能,克服腈纶类面料起静电、易起球等缺陷,满足了人们对腈纶织物服用需求。As shown in Table 1, the acetate green fiber knitted fabric of this example has good air permeability, anti-pilling and anti-static properties, overcomes the defects of acrylic fabrics such as static electricity and easy pilling, and satisfies people's demand for acrylic fabrics.
本实施例通过原料的选择和合理的组织结构以及织造工艺路线,采用醋青纤维为基本组分,与粘胶、莫代尔、维劳夫特、涤纶、棉和锦纶6混纺纱进行交织,使针织织物防静电、抗起球、导湿及保暖功能均有明显提高。In this embodiment, through the selection of raw materials, reasonable organizational structure and weaving process route, vinegar green fiber is used as the basic component, and it is interwoven with viscose, modal, Velvet, polyester, cotton and nylon 6 blended yarns, so that The anti-static, anti-pilling, moisture-wicking and heat-retaining functions of knitted fabrics are all significantly improved.
虽然本发明已作了详细描述,但对本领域技术人员来说,在本发明精神和范围内的修改将是显而易见的。此外,应当理解的是,本发明记载的各方面、不同具体实施方式的各部分、和列举的各种特征可被组合或全部或部分互换。在上述的各个具体实施方式中,那些参考另一个具体实施方式的实施方式可适当地与其它实施方式组合,这是将由本领域技术人员所能理解的。此外,本领域技术人员将会理解,前面的描述仅是示例的方式,并不旨在限制本发明。While the invention has been described in detail, modifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. In addition, it should be understood that various aspects described in the present invention, various parts of different specific embodiments, and various listed features may be combined or interchanged in whole or in part. In each of the specific embodiments described above, those embodiments that refer to another specific embodiment may be appropriately combined with other embodiments, as will be understood by those skilled in the art. Furthermore, those skilled in the art will appreciate that the foregoing description is by way of example only, and is not intended to limit the invention.
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CN110295437A (en) * | 2018-03-23 | 2019-10-01 | 上海水星家用纺织品股份有限公司 | A kind of home textile fabric using vinegar blueness fiber |
CN110725050A (en) * | 2019-11-12 | 2020-01-24 | 东华大学 | A kind of preparation method of knitted fabric with biomimetic composite structure |
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CN110295437A (en) * | 2018-03-23 | 2019-10-01 | 上海水星家用纺织品股份有限公司 | A kind of home textile fabric using vinegar blueness fiber |
CN109440278A (en) * | 2018-12-25 | 2019-03-08 | 青岛雪达集团有限公司 | The woven nano antibacterial cool fiber knitted fabric of the method for weaving of nano antibacterial cool fiber knitted fabric, this method and application |
CN109440278B (en) * | 2018-12-25 | 2024-06-04 | 青岛雪达集团有限公司 | Weaving method of nano antibacterial cool fiber knitted fabric, nano antibacterial cool fiber knitted fabric woven by method and application |
CN110725050A (en) * | 2019-11-12 | 2020-01-24 | 东华大学 | A kind of preparation method of knitted fabric with biomimetic composite structure |
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