CN105662940B - Active compound and preparation method thereof and its application in cosmetics or skin care item - Google Patents
Active compound and preparation method thereof and its application in cosmetics or skin care item Download PDFInfo
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
本发明公开了一种活性组合物及制备方法、及其在化妆品或护肤品的应用,其中活性组合物的制备方法包括:将质量份数分别为50~60份的糖枫树液、10~30份的白桦树汁和10~20份的椰子水混合形成混合液,然后将所述混合液依次进行灭酶、澄清、精制、浓缩和稳定后形成所述活性组合物。通过本发明的制备方法制备的活性组合物能有效地抑制酪氨酸酶活性,消除自由基,具备良好的抗氧化作用;将该活性组合物应用于制备化妆品或护肤品,得到的化妆品或护肤品除了具有天然清新的植物气味外,还具有持久的抗氧化、美白的功效。
The invention discloses an active composition and a preparation method thereof, and its application in cosmetics or skin care products, wherein the preparation method of the active composition comprises: 50-60 parts by mass of sugar maple sap, 10-60 parts by mass, 30 parts of birch sap and 10-20 parts of coconut water are mixed to form a mixed solution, and then the mixed solution is sequentially subjected to enzyme elimination, clarification, refining, concentration and stabilization to form the active composition. The active composition prepared by the preparation method of the present invention can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, eliminate free radicals, and have a good antioxidant effect; the active composition is applied to the preparation of cosmetics or skin care products, and the obtained cosmetics or skin care products In addition to the natural and fresh plant smell, the product also has long-lasting anti-oxidation and whitening effects.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及日用品技术领域,尤其涉及一种活性组合物及制备方法、及其在化妆品或护肤品的应用。The invention relates to the technical field of daily necessities, in particular to an active composition, a preparation method, and an application in cosmetics or skin care products.
背景技术Background technique
酪氨酸酶作为黑色素合成的关键酶,其异常过量表达可导致人体的色素沉着性疾病,因此,酪氨酸酶抑制剂可以治疗目前常见的色素沉着。目前,市面上的美白化妆品中添加的酪氨酸酶抑制剂多为化学合成物,毒副作用明显。采用天然来源美白剂来制备化妆品是将来化妆品发展方向。皮肤衰老是人体的自然现象,如今环境污染问题严重,人们的工作压力大,生活不规律,导致皮肤衰老这一现象更为严重。与衰老过程有关的最常见的内源性生化因子是自由基,所以对于抗衰老,清除自由基尤为重要。Tyrosinase is a key enzyme for melanin synthesis, and its abnormal overexpression can lead to pigmentation diseases in the human body. Therefore, tyrosinase inhibitors can treat the current common pigmentation. At present, most of the tyrosinase inhibitors added to whitening cosmetics on the market are chemical compounds with obvious toxic and side effects. The use of natural source whitening agents to prepare cosmetics is the future development direction of cosmetics. Skin aging is a natural phenomenon of the human body. Nowadays, the problem of environmental pollution is serious, people's work pressure is high, and their lives are irregular, which makes the phenomenon of skin aging more serious. The most common endogenous biochemical factors associated with the aging process are free radicals, so for anti-aging, scavenging free radicals is particularly important.
因此,开发具有美白及抗氧化活性功效的植物活性组合物在化妆品或护肤品的发展中具有重要意义。Therefore, it is of great significance in the development of cosmetics or skin care products to develop plant active compositions with whitening and antioxidant activity effects.
发明内容Contents of the invention
鉴于上述现有技术的问题,本发明提出一种具有美白、抗氧化活性的活性组合物及其制备方法、及其在化妆品或护肤品中的应用。In view of the above-mentioned problems in the prior art, the present invention proposes an active composition with whitening and anti-oxidation activities, its preparation method, and its application in cosmetics or skin care products.
为达到上述目的,本发明采用以下技术方案:To achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:
本发明公开了一种活性组合物的制备方法,包括:将质量份数分别为50~60份的糖枫树液、10~30份的白桦树汁和10~20份的椰子水混合形成混合液,然后将所述混合液依次进行灭酶、澄清、精制、浓缩和稳定后形成所述活性组合物。The invention discloses a preparation method of an active composition, comprising: mixing 50-60 parts by mass of sugar maple sap, 10-30 parts of white birch sap and 10-20 parts of coconut water to form a mixture liquid, and then the mixed liquid is inactivated, clarified, refined, concentrated and stabilized sequentially to form the active composition.
在进一步的技术方案中,本发明公开的活性组合物的制备方法还可以具有以下技术特征:In a further technical scheme, the preparation method of the active composition disclosed in the present invention can also have the following technical features:
所述灭酶步骤包括采用微波对所述混合液进行生物酶灭活处理,其中所述微波的功率为300~900W,时间为5~10min。The step of inactivating enzymes includes using microwaves to inactivate biological enzymes on the mixed liquid, wherein the power of the microwaves is 300-900W, and the time is 5-10 minutes.
所述澄清步骤包括采用冰浴将经过灭酶处理后的所述混合液降温至室温,然后进行高速冷冻离心,其中所述离心的速率为18000~25000rpm,时间为10~15min,温度为0~5℃。The clarification step includes using an ice bath to cool down the mixed solution after the enzyme-inactivating treatment to room temperature, and then performing high-speed refrigerated centrifugation, wherein the centrifugation speed is 18000-25000 rpm, the time is 10-15 minutes, and the temperature is 0-2000 rpm. 5°C.
所述精制步骤包括将经过澄清步骤后的所述混合液通过分子量为3000~5000Da的超滤膜,收集透过液;优选地,所述超滤膜的材质为中空纤维膜、聚丙烯腈膜、聚氯乙烯膜、聚砜膜、聚醚砜膜、聚偏氟乙烯膜或者陶瓷膜。The refining step includes passing the mixed solution after the clarification step through an ultrafiltration membrane with a molecular weight of 3000-5000 Da to collect the permeate; preferably, the material of the ultrafiltration membrane is a hollow fiber membrane, a polyacrylonitrile membrane , polyvinyl chloride membrane, polysulfone membrane, polyethersulfone membrane, polyvinylidene fluoride membrane or ceramic membrane.
所述浓缩步骤包括将经过精制步骤的所述混合液进行真空薄膜浓缩,其中浓缩比例为经过所述灭酶处理步骤之前的所述混合液的质量的1/15~1/10,旋转速率为700~1000rpm,真空度为100Pa以下,温度为10~20℃。The concentrating step includes vacuum film concentrating the mixed solution after the refining step, wherein the concentration ratio is 1/15 to 1/10 of the mass of the mixed solution before the enzyme-inactivating treatment step, and the rotation speed is 700~1000rpm, the vacuum degree is below 100Pa, and the temperature is 10~20℃.
所述稳定步骤包括向经过浓缩步骤的所述混合液中加入稳定剂并混合均匀,所述稳定剂的质量为经过浓缩步骤的所述混合液的质量的20~40%。The stabilizing step includes adding a stabilizer to the mixed solution that has gone through the concentration step and mixing evenly, the mass of the stabilizer is 20-40% of the mass of the mixed solution that has gone through the concentration step.
所述稳定剂为丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇,1,2-戊二醇的混合物,其中丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇,1,2-戊二醇的混合质量比例为3~6:1~3:1~2。The stabilizer is a mixture of propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol and 1,2-pentanediol, wherein the mixing mass ratio of propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol and 1,2-pentanediol is 3- 6: 1~3: 1~2.
糖枫树液、白桦树汁和椰子水在0~5℃的温度下进行搅拌混合后形成混合液。The sugar maple sap, birch sap and coconut water are stirred and mixed at a temperature of 0-5° C. to form a mixed solution.
本发明还公开了一种活性组合物,是根据上述所述的制备方法制成的活性组合物。The invention also discloses an active composition, which is the active composition prepared according to the above-mentioned preparation method.
本发明另外还公开了一种活性组合物在化妆品或护肤品中的应用,其特征在于,所述活性组合物按照质量分数为1~40%的比例添加到化妆品或护肤品中。The present invention also discloses an application of the active composition in cosmetics or skin care products, which is characterized in that the active composition is added to the cosmetics or skin care products at a mass fraction of 1-40%.
糖枫,又名:糖槭、美洲糖槭,槭树科槭属落叶大乔木,高达40m。《全国中草药汇编》记载枫树的根和叶可入药,具有祛风止痛,可用于牙痛、肠炎、痢疾,胃痛、外用治毒蜂螫伤、皮肤湿疹等。由糖枫树干中流出来的无色易流动的溶液称为糖枫树液,含有2~3%的糖份、氨基酸等各种矿物盐分。由于糖枫树液具有特殊风味,还常用为制造蜜饯、糖果或烟草调味。本发明中所采用的糖枫树液是取自夏天糖枫树干中的流出液。Sugar maple, also known as: sugar maple, American sugar maple, is a large deciduous tree in the Aceraceae family, with a height of 40m. "National Compilation of Chinese Herbal Medicine" records that the roots and leaves of maple tree can be used as medicine, which can dispel wind and relieve pain. The colorless and easy-flowing solution flowing from the sugar maple trunk is called sugar maple sap, which contains 2 to 3% sugar, amino acids and other mineral salts. Due to the special flavor of sugar maple sap, it is also commonly used to make candied fruit, candy or tobacco flavoring. The sugar maple sap used in the present invention is the effluent from the summer sugar maple trunk.
白桦树汁是春天从白桦树活立木中采集的汁液,刚采集的桦树汁清凉可口,微甜(健康无病害的树木),富含糖、酸、微量元素和芳香物质等。据测定,桦树汁中含有4种维生素(VC、VB1、VB2、VH)、11种脂肪酸、18种氨基酸和18种微量元素。这些物质对人体的生命活动起着重要的作用,经常饮用桦树液天然饮料能促进人体新陈代谢,并可以抗血管硬化和抗疲劳。本发明中的白桦树汁是取自春天白桦树干中的流出液。Birch sap is collected from living birch trees in spring. The freshly collected birch sap is cool and delicious, slightly sweet (healthy and disease-free trees), rich in sugar, acid, trace elements and aromatic substances. According to the determination, birch sap contains 4 kinds of vitamins (VC, VB1, VB2, VH), 11 kinds of fatty acids, 18 kinds of amino acids and 18 kinds of trace elements. These substances play an important role in the life activities of the human body. Often drinking birch sap natural beverage can promote the metabolism of the human body, and can resist vascular sclerosis and fatigue. Birch sap in the present invention is the effluent from the trunk of birch in spring.
椰子水是存在于椰子果实腔内的一种复合天然液体,富含多种营养素,具有独特的风味和芳香物质,主要成分包括酸类、醇类、酯类、烷烯类、醛类、酮类和酚类等。在食品工业上可用于生产多种食品,如椰纤果、果酒、醋、乙酸乙酯等。我国的椰子果年产量约28.90万吨,椰子水来源丰富,但目前对椰子水的研究报道却较少,利用率也很低,大多数椰子加工厂在加工椰子时,除少量椰子水被利用作清凉饮料外,大部分作为废物被倒掉,这既造成环境污染,又造成资源的巨大浪费。因此,将椰子水加以研究并应用于日化领域,具有巨大的经济价值。本发明中的椰子水是取自成熟椰子的内腔液。Coconut water is a complex natural liquid that exists in the cavity of coconut fruit. It is rich in various nutrients and has a unique flavor and aroma. The main components include acids, alcohols, esters, alkenes, aldehydes, and ketones. class and phenols etc. In the food industry, it can be used to produce a variety of foods, such as coconut fiber fruit, fruit wine, vinegar, ethyl acetate, etc. The annual output of coconut fruit in my country is about 289,000 tons, and the source of coconut water is rich, but there are few research reports on coconut water, and the utilization rate is also very low. When most coconut processing factories process coconuts, only a small amount of coconut water is used. Except for refreshing drinks, most of them are dumped as waste, which not only causes environmental pollution, but also causes a huge waste of resources. Therefore, it is of great economic value to study and apply coconut water to the field of daily chemicals. Coconut water among the present invention is to be taken from the cavity liquid of ripe coconut.
与现有技术相比,本发明的有益效果在于:本发明制备方法通过将糖枫树液、白桦树汁、椰子水三种植物成分混合后进行加工制备形成活性组合物,该活性组合物能有效地抑制酪氨酸酶活性,消除自由基,具备良好的抗氧化作用;将该活性组合物应用于制备化妆品或护肤品,得到的化妆品或护肤品除了具有天然清新的植物气味外,还具有持久的抗氧化、美白的功效。Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effect of the present invention is that: the preparation method of the present invention is prepared by mixing the three plant components of sugar maple sap, birch sap and coconut water to form an active composition, and the active composition can Effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity, eliminate free radicals, and have a good antioxidant effect; the active composition is applied to the preparation of cosmetics or skin care products, and the obtained cosmetics or skin care products not only have a natural and fresh plant smell, but also have Long-lasting anti-oxidant and whitening effect.
在进一步的方案中,本发明的活性组合物所采用的三种原料均具有丰富的氧化酶,通过微波方法将三种原料中的酶结构迅速破坏从而丧失酶的活性,避免了有效成分容易氧化导致颜色加深从而影响活性组合物在终端化妆品中的应用,保证了活性组合物的稳定性;优选地,混合液通过利用超滤膜有效的去除原料中容易造成产品的不稳定且不易于被皮肤吸收的淀粉、多糖、蛋白质等大分子杂质,极大地保留了氨基酸、矿物盐、芳香小分子等活性成分,从而使得该活性组合物应用在化妆品或护肤品的效果更佳。In a further solution, the three raw materials used in the active composition of the present invention are all rich in oxidase, and the enzyme structure in the three raw materials is rapidly destroyed by microwave method to lose the activity of the enzyme, avoiding the easy oxidation of active ingredients It will lead to darkening of the color and thus affect the application of the active composition in the terminal cosmetics, ensuring the stability of the active composition; preferably, the mixed solution can effectively remove the raw materials through the use of an ultrafiltration membrane, which is likely to cause product instability and is not easy to be absorbed by the skin. The absorbed macromolecular impurities such as starch, polysaccharide, and protein greatly retain active ingredients such as amino acids, mineral salts, and aromatic small molecules, so that the active composition has a better effect when applied to cosmetics or skin care products.
在更进一步的方案中,活性组合物在制备过程中保持低温环境,避免了原料中的糖分在高温下褐变影响外观,从而保证了活性组合物的外观以及避免了对化妆品或护肤品的外观造成影响。In a further solution, the active composition is kept at a low temperature during the preparation process, which avoids the browning of the sugar in the raw material at high temperature and affects the appearance, thereby ensuring the appearance of the active composition and avoiding the appearance of cosmetics or skin care products. make an impact.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1是本发明实施例一中的活性组合物对自由基清除的拟合图;Fig. 1 is the fitting figure of active composition in the embodiment 1 of the present invention to free radical scavenging;
图2是本发明实施例二中的活性组合物对酪氨酸酶抑制率的拟合图;Fig. 2 is the fitting figure of active composition in the embodiment of the present invention 2 to tyrosinase inhibitory rate;
图3是空白样与使用本发明实施例五及实施例六中的配方产品28天后的黑色素减少量对比图;Fig. 3 is a comparison chart of melanin reduction after 28 days between the blank sample and the formulation product in Example 5 and Example 6 of the present invention;
图4是空白样与使用本发明实施例五及实施例六中的配方产品28天后的L增加值对比图。Fig. 4 is a comparison chart of the L increase value of the blank sample and the formula products in the fifth and sixth examples of the present invention after 28 days.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
下面对照附图并结合优选的实施方式对本发明作进一步说明。The present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings and in combination with preferred embodiments.
本发明提供了一种活性组合物的制备方法,在一个实施例中,包括将质量份数分别为50~60份的糖枫树液、10~30份的白桦树汁和10~20份的椰子水混合形成混合液,然后将所述混合液依次进行灭酶、澄清、精制、浓缩和稳定后形成所述活性组合物。The invention provides a method for preparing an active composition. In one embodiment, it comprises 50-60 parts by mass of sugar maple sap, 10-30 parts of birch sap and 10-20 parts of Coconut water is mixed to form a mixed solution, and then the mixed solution is sequentially subjected to enzyme inactivation, clarification, refining, concentration and stabilization to form the active composition.
在一些优选的实施例中,在上述实施例的条件下,可以采用以下优选条件中的至少一个:In some preferred embodiments, under the conditions of the foregoing embodiments, at least one of the following preferred conditions can be adopted:
所述灭酶步骤包括采用微波对所述混合液进行生物酶灭活处理,其中所述微波的功率为300~900W,时间为5~10min。The step of inactivating enzymes includes using microwaves to inactivate biological enzymes on the mixed liquid, wherein the power of the microwaves is 300-900W, and the time is 5-10 minutes.
所述澄清步骤包括采用冰浴将经过灭酶处理后的所述混合液降温至室温,然后进行高速冷冻离心,其中所述离心的速率为18000~25000rpm,时间为10~15min,温度为0~5℃。The clarification step includes using an ice bath to cool down the mixed solution after the enzyme-inactivating treatment to room temperature, and then performing high-speed refrigerated centrifugation, wherein the centrifugation speed is 18000-25000 rpm, the time is 10-15 minutes, and the temperature is 0-2000 rpm. 5°C.
所述精制步骤包括将经过澄清步骤后的所述混合液通过分子量为3000~5000Da的超滤膜,收集透过液;优选地,所述超滤膜的材质为中空纤维膜、聚丙烯腈膜、聚氯乙烯膜、聚砜膜、聚醚砜膜、聚偏氟乙烯膜或者陶瓷膜。The refining step includes passing the mixed solution after the clarification step through an ultrafiltration membrane with a molecular weight of 3000-5000 Da to collect the permeate; preferably, the material of the ultrafiltration membrane is a hollow fiber membrane, a polyacrylonitrile membrane , polyvinyl chloride membrane, polysulfone membrane, polyethersulfone membrane, polyvinylidene fluoride membrane or ceramic membrane.
所述浓缩步骤包括将经过精制步骤的所述混合液进行真空薄膜浓缩,其中浓缩比例为经过所述灭酶处理步骤之前的所述混合液的质量的1/15~1/10,旋转速率为700~1000rpm,真空度为100Pa以下,温度为10~20℃。The concentrating step includes vacuum film concentrating the mixed solution after the refining step, wherein the concentration ratio is 1/15 to 1/10 of the mass of the mixed solution before the enzyme-inactivating treatment step, and the rotation speed is 700~1000rpm, the vacuum degree is below 100Pa, and the temperature is 10~20℃.
所述稳定步骤包括向经过浓缩步骤的所述混合液中加入稳定剂并混合均匀,所述稳定剂的质量为经过浓缩步骤的所述混合液的质量的20~40%,优选地,所述稳定剂为丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇,1,2-戊二醇的混合物,其中丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇,1,2-戊二醇的混合质量比例为3~6:1~3:1~2。The stabilizing step includes adding a stabilizer to the mixed solution that has undergone the concentration step and mixing evenly, the quality of the stabilizer is 20-40% of the mass of the mixed solution that has passed the concentration step, preferably, the The stabilizer is a mixture of propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, and 1,2-pentanediol, wherein the mixing mass ratio of propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, and 1,2-pentanediol is 3-6: 1~3: 1~2.
糖枫树液、白桦树汁和椰子水在0~5℃的温度下进行搅拌混合后形成混合液。The sugar maple sap, birch sap and coconut water are stirred and mixed at a temperature of 0-5° C. to form a mixed solution.
本发明还提供一种活性组合物,是根据上述任意一种实施例的制备方法所制成的。The present invention also provides an active composition prepared according to the preparation method of any one of the above embodiments.
本发明还提供了一种根据上述任意一种实施例的制备方法制得的活性组合物在化妆品或护肤品中的应用,其中活性组合物按照质量分数为1~40%的比例添加到化妆品或护肤品中。The present invention also provides an application of the active composition prepared according to the preparation method of any one of the above embodiments in cosmetics or skin care products, wherein the active composition is added to the cosmetic or in skin care products.
下面以具体实施例对本发明的活性组合物及其制备方法做进一步的说明。The active composition of the present invention and its preparation method will be further described below with specific examples.
实施例一:Embodiment one:
一种含有糖枫树液的活性组合物,由以下组分按重量份组成:糖枫树液50重量份、白桦树汁20重量份、椰子水10重量份。三种原料在温度为2℃条件下混合后在微波功率为450W,时间为6min条件下灭酶;处理后的混合液利用冰浴迅速降温到室温后在转速为20000rpm,时间为10min,温度为0℃下离心,离心后的上清液通过分子量为3500Da的超滤膜,得到透过液;透过液在旋转速度为800rpm、真空度为80Pa,温度为20℃条件下薄膜浓缩至三种原料混合液初始质量的1/10,得到浓缩液;在浓缩液中加入其质量分数为25%稳定剂,常规混合后即为本发明的活性组合物A。其固含量为16%-20%,能直接添加到护肤化妆品中。其中稳定剂是丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,2-戊二醇三者的混合物,混合的质量比例为3:3:1。An active composition containing sugar maple sap is composed of the following components in parts by weight: 50 parts by weight of sugar maple sap, 20 parts by weight of birch sap, and 10 parts by weight of coconut water. The three raw materials were mixed at a temperature of 2°C, and then the enzyme was inactivated under the condition of a microwave power of 450W and a time of 6 minutes; After centrifugation at 0°C, the centrifuged supernatant passes through an ultrafiltration membrane with a molecular weight of 3500Da to obtain a permeate; the permeate is concentrated to three types of membranes at a rotation speed of 800rpm, a vacuum of 80Pa, and a temperature of 20°C. 1/10 of the initial mass of the raw material mixed solution to obtain a concentrated solution; a stabilizer with a mass fraction of 25% is added to the concentrated solution, and the active composition A of the present invention is obtained after conventional mixing. Its solid content is 16%-20%, and it can be directly added to skin care cosmetics. The stabilizer is a mixture of propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, and 1,2-pentanediol, and the mixing ratio is 3:3:1.
下述对活性组合物A进行消除DPPH自由基能力测试:The active composition A was tested for its ability to eliminate DPPH free radicals as follows:
1,1-二苯基-2-三硝基苯肼(DPPH)是一种稳定的氮中心有机自由基,它的稳定性主要来自共振稳定作用及3个苯环的空间阻碍,使得夹在其中氮原子上的不成对电子不能发挥其应有的电子成对作用。当自由基清除剂存在时,由于单电子配对而使其吸收逐渐消失,其褪色程度与其接受电子数呈定量关系,因而可用分光光度计进行快速的定量分析,来检测自由基清除情况,从而评价样品的抗氧化能力。其能力用清除率来表示,清除率越大,则表明其抗氧化能力越强。1,1-Diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine (DPPH) is a stable nitrogen-centered organic radical, and its stability mainly comes from resonance stabilization and the steric hindrance of the three benzene rings, making it sandwiched between Among them, the unpaired electrons on the nitrogen atom cannot play their due electron pairing role. When the free radical scavenger exists, its absorption gradually disappears due to single-electron pairing, and its fading degree is quantitatively related to the number of electrons it accepts. Therefore, a spectrophotometer can be used for rapid quantitative analysis to detect the free radical scavenging situation, so as to evaluate The antioxidant capacity of the samples. Its ability is expressed by clearance rate, and the greater the clearance rate, the stronger its antioxidant capacity.
样品处理:含有糖枫树液的活性组合物A为淡黄色透明液体,具备清新香气,进行DPPH清除测试实验时,按照比例用纯水稀释到所需浓度。Sample treatment: The active composition A containing sugar maple sap is a light yellow transparent liquid with a fresh aroma. When performing the DPPH removal test, it is diluted with pure water to the required concentration according to the proportion.
试验方法:以无水乙醇为溶剂配制浓度为2×10-4mol/L的DPPH乙醇溶液;将待测样品液(活性组合物A)2ml加入试管中,再加入2mlDPPH乙醇溶液,混匀后静置反应30min;在517nm处测定吸光度。Test method: prepare a DPPH ethanol solution with a concentration of 2×10 -4 mol/L with absolute ethanol as a solvent; add 2ml of the sample solution to be tested (active composition A) into the test tube, then add 2ml of the DPPH ethanol solution, and mix well Let it stand for 30 minutes; measure the absorbance at 517nm.
每个浓度重复三次测试以保证实验结果的准确性,最后取平均值作为拟合数据,其中DPPH清除率的计算公式如下:Repeat the test three times for each concentration to ensure the accuracy of the experimental results, and finally take the average value as the fitting data, wherein the calculation formula of the DPPH clearance rate is as follows:
DPPH清除率(%)=[1-(E-E0)/(F-F0)]×100%DPPH clearance rate (%)=[1-(EE 0 )/(FF 0 )]×100%
式中:In the formula:
E:2ml样品液加2ml DPPH溶液的吸光度;E: Absorbance of 2ml sample solution plus 2ml DPPH solution;
E0:2ml水加2ml DPPH溶液的吸光度(样品溶剂对照);E 0 : the absorbance of 2ml water plus 2ml DPPH solution (sample solvent contrast);
F:2ml样品液加2ml 95%乙醇的吸光度(阳性对照);F: Absorbance of 2ml sample solution plus 2ml 95% ethanol (positive control);
F0:2ml水加2ml 95%乙醇的吸光度(阳性对照溶剂对照)。F 0 : absorbance of 2ml water plus 2ml 95% ethanol (positive control solvent control).
按照以上公式计算DPPH清除率,清除率越大抗氧化能力越强,实验结果如表1所示。The DPPH scavenging rate was calculated according to the above formula. The higher the scavenging rate, the stronger the antioxidant capacity. The experimental results are shown in Table 1.
表1Table 1
半数抑制率(IC50)的计算:Calculation of half inhibitory rate (IC 50 ):
C50值定义为清除率为50%时所需抗氧化剂的浓度。以不同浓度的活性组合物A对自由基清除作图并进行拟合,结果如图1,读取计算IC50值。从图中可以看出,含糖枫树液的活性组合物的DPPH自由基清除率的IC50为2.8%,具有较高的抗氧化活性。The C50 value is defined as the concentration of antioxidant required for 50% clearance. The free radical scavenging was plotted and fitted with different concentrations of the active composition A, the result is shown in Figure 1, and the IC 50 value was calculated by reading. It can be seen from the figure that the IC50 of the DPPH free radical scavenging rate of the active composition containing sugar maple sap is 2.8%, and has a relatively high antioxidant activity.
实施例二:Embodiment two:
一种含有糖枫树液的活性组合物,由以下组分按重量份组成:糖枫树液58重量份;白桦树汁25重量份;椰子水18重量份。三种原料在温度为5℃条件下混合后在微波功率为800W,时间为6min条件下灭酶;处理后的混合液利用冰浴迅速降温到室温后在转速为25000rpm,时间为14min,温度为3℃下离心,离心后的上清液通过5000Da的超滤膜,得到透过液;通过液在旋转速度为1000rpm、真空度为30Pa,温度为15℃条件下薄膜浓缩至三种原料混合液初始质量的1/12,得到浓缩液;浓缩液再加入其质量分数为40%稳定剂,常规混合后即为本发明的活性组合物B。其固含量为16%-20%,能直接添加到护肤化妆品中。其中稳定剂为丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,2-戊二醇三者的混合物,混合的质量比例为5:3:2。An active composition containing sugar maple sap is composed of the following components by weight: 58 parts by weight of sugar maple sap; 25 parts by weight of birch sap; and 18 parts by weight of coconut water. The three raw materials were mixed at a temperature of 5°C, and then the enzyme was inactivated under the condition of a microwave power of 800W and a time of 6 minutes; Centrifuge at 3°C, and the supernatant after centrifugation passes through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain the permeate; the passthrough is concentrated into a mixture of three raw materials at a rotation speed of 1000rpm, a vacuum of 30Pa, and a temperature of 15°C. 1/12 of the initial mass to obtain a concentrated solution; the concentrated solution is then added with a stabilizer having a mass fraction of 40%, and after conventional mixing, it becomes the active composition B of the present invention. Its solid content is 16%-20%, and it can be directly added to skin care cosmetics. The stabilizer is a mixture of propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol and 1,2-pentanediol, and the mixing ratio is 5:3:2.
下述对活性组合物B进行抑制酪氨酸酶活性能力测试:The active composition B is tested for its ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity as follows:
近年的研究证明色素沉着是由紫外线激活表皮中的黑色素细胞内的黑色素生成酶,产生色素所引起的。在黑色素生成过程中,酪氨酸酶将酪氨酸转化成多巴、多巴醌,经非酶氧化而聚合生成大分子的黑色素。因此通过抑制酪氨酸酶的活性可以限制黑色素生成,改善皮肤的色素沉着。Recent studies have proved that hyperpigmentation is caused by the activation of melanin-producing enzymes in melanocytes in the epidermis by ultraviolet rays to produce pigments. In the process of melanin production, tyrosinase converts tyrosine into dopa and dopaquinone, which are polymerized into macromolecular melanin through non-enzymatic oxidation. Therefore, by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, melanin production can be limited and skin pigmentation can be improved.
样品处理:含有糖枫树液的活性组合物为淡黄色透明液体,具备清新香气,进行酪氨酸酶活性抑制实验时,按照比例用纯水稀释到所需浓度。Sample treatment: The active composition containing sugar maple sap is a light yellow transparent liquid with a fresh aroma. When performing the tyrosinase activity inhibition test, it is diluted with pure water to the required concentration according to the proportion.
试验方法:配置PBS溶液(pH=6.8,0.1mol/L),L-酪氨酸酶溶液(酪氨酸酶酶活为100U/ml)。在样品管和样品对照管中各加入1ml实施例二中活性组合物B,阳性和阴性对照管以磷酸缓冲液替代;在样品管和样品对照管中加入0.5ml酪氨酸酶溶液,样品对照和阴性对照管以0.5ml磷酸缓冲液替代,震荡,使得样品充分混匀,37℃孵育10min;加入酪氨酸酶,恒温10min后,于475nm下测量其吸光度值,并与熊果苷进行比较。Test method: Prepare PBS solution (pH=6.8, 0.1mol/L), L-tyrosinase solution (tyrosinase activity: 100U/ml). In the sample tube and the sample control tube, respectively add the active composition B in 1ml embodiment two, and the positive and negative control tubes are replaced with phosphate buffer; in the sample tube and the sample control tube, add 0.5ml tyrosinase solution, and the sample control And the negative control tube was replaced with 0.5ml phosphate buffer solution, shaken to make the sample fully mixed, incubated at 37°C for 10min; added tyrosinase, after constant temperature for 10min, measured its absorbance value at 475nm, and compared with arbutin .
酪氨酸酶抑制率(%)=[1-(G-G0)/(H-H0)]×100%Tyrosinase inhibition rate (%)=[1-(GG 0 )/(HH 0 )]×100%
式中:In the formula:
G:样品组;G: sample group;
G0:样品对照组;G 0 : sample control group;
H:阳性对照;H: positive control;
H0:阳性溶剂对照。H 0 : Positive solvent control.
按照以上公式计算酪氨酸酶抑制率,实验结果如表2所示。The tyrosinase inhibition rate was calculated according to the above formula, and the experimental results are shown in Table 2.
表2Table 2
半数抑制率(IC50)的计算:Calculation of half inhibitory rate (IC 50 ):
C50值定义为抑制率为50%时所需抗抑制剂的浓度。以不同浓度的活性组合物对酪氨酸酶抑制率作图并进行拟合,结果如图2,读取计算IC50值。从图中可以看出,含糖枫树液的活性组合物抑制酪氨酸酶活性的IC50为4.9%,具有较高的抑制酪氨酸酶活性。The C50 value was defined as the concentration of anti-inhibitor required for 50% inhibition. The tyrosinase inhibition rate was plotted and fitted with different concentrations of the active composition. The result is shown in Figure 2, and the IC 50 value was calculated by reading. It can be seen from the figure that the IC 50 of the active composition containing sugar maple sap for inhibiting tyrosinase activity is 4.9%, and has a relatively high inhibitory activity for tyrosinase.
实施例三:Embodiment three:
一种含有糖枫树液的活性组合物,由以下组分按重量份组成:糖枫树液60重量份、白桦树汁30重量份、椰子水20重量份。三种原料在温度为0℃条件下混合后在微波功率为900W,时间为10min条件下灭酶;处理后的混合液利用冰浴迅速降温到室温后在转速为18000rpm/min,时间为15min,温度为5℃下离心,离心后的上清液通过3000Da的超滤膜,得到透过液;通过液在旋转速度为900rpm、真空度为50Pa,温度为10℃条件下薄膜浓缩至三种原料混合液初始质量的1/15,得到浓缩液;浓缩液再加入其质量分数为30%稳定剂,常规混合后即为本发明的活性组合物C。其固含量为16%-20%,能直接添加到护肤化妆品中。其中稳定剂为丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,2-戊二醇三者的混合物,混合的质量比例为6:1:2。对活性组合物C分别进行消除DPPH自由基能力测试和抑制酪氨酸酶活性能力测试得出:活性组合物C具有较高的抗氧化活性和较高的抑制酪氨酸酶活性。An active composition containing sugar maple sap is composed of the following components in parts by weight: 60 parts by weight of sugar maple sap, 30 parts by weight of birch sap, and 20 parts by weight of coconut water. After the three raw materials were mixed at 0°C, the enzyme was inactivated under the condition of microwave power of 900W and time of 10 minutes; the treated mixed solution was rapidly cooled to room temperature in an ice bath, and then the rotation speed was 18000rpm/min, and the time was 15 minutes. Centrifuge at a temperature of 5°C, and the supernatant after centrifugation passes through a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a permeate; the passthrough is concentrated into three raw materials at a rotation speed of 900rpm, a vacuum of 50Pa, and a temperature of 10°C. 1/15 of the initial mass of the mixed solution to obtain a concentrated solution; the concentrated solution is added with a stabilizer with a mass fraction of 30%, and after conventional mixing, it becomes the active composition C of the present invention. Its solid content is 16%-20%, and it can be directly added to skin care cosmetics. The stabilizer is a mixture of propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, and 1,2-pentanediol, and the mixing ratio is 6:1:2. The ability to eliminate DPPH free radicals and the ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity were tested on the active composition C, and it was found that the active composition C had higher antioxidant activity and higher tyrosinase inhibitory activity.
实施例四:Embodiment four:
一种含有糖枫树液的活性组合物,由以下组分按重量份组成:糖枫树液55重量份、白桦树汁10重量份、椰子水15重量份。三种原料在温度为3℃条件下混合后在微波功率为300W,时间为5min条件下灭酶;处理后的混合液利用冰浴迅速降温到室温后在转速为22000rpm,时间为12min,温度为2℃下离心,离心后的上清液通过4000Da的超滤膜,得到透过液;通过液在旋转速度为700rpm、真空度为60Pa,温度为12℃条件下薄膜浓缩至三种原料混合液初始质量的1/14,得到浓缩液;浓缩液再加入其质量分数为20%稳定剂,常规混合后即为本发明的活性组合物D。其固含量为16%-20%,能直接添加到护肤化妆品中。其中稳定剂为丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,2-戊二醇三者的混合物,混合的质量比例为4:2:1。对活性组合物D分别进行消除DPPH自由基能力测试和抑制酪氨酸酶活性能力测试得出:活性组合物D具有较高的抗氧化活性和较高的抑制酪氨酸酶活性。An active composition containing sugar maple sap is composed of the following components in parts by weight: 55 parts by weight of sugar maple sap, 10 parts by weight of birch sap, and 15 parts by weight of coconut water. The three raw materials were mixed at a temperature of 3°C, and then the enzyme was inactivated under the condition of a microwave power of 300W and a time of 5 minutes; Centrifuge at 2°C, and the supernatant after centrifugation passes through a 4000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain the permeate; the passthrough is concentrated into a mixture of three raw materials at a rotation speed of 700rpm, a vacuum of 60Pa, and a temperature of 12°C. 1/14 of the initial mass to obtain a concentrated solution; the concentrated solution is then added with a stabilizer with a mass fraction of 20%, and after conventional mixing, it becomes the active composition D of the present invention. Its solid content is 16%-20%, and it can be directly added to skin care cosmetics. The stabilizer is a mixture of propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, and 1,2-pentanediol, and the mixing ratio is 4:2:1. The ability to eliminate DPPH free radicals and the ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity were tested on the active composition D respectively, and it was concluded that the active composition D had higher antioxidant activity and higher tyrosinase inhibitory activity.
下面以具体实施例对本发明的活性组合物在化妆品或护肤品的应用做进一步的说明。The application of the active composition of the present invention in cosmetics or skin care products will be further described below with specific examples.
实施例五:Embodiment five:
本实施例中将实施例一中制备的活性组合物A加入乳液的配方中来制备乳液。其中乳液的配方如表3所示。In this example, the active composition A prepared in Example 1 was added to the formulation of the emulsion to prepare the emulsion. Wherein the formulation of the emulsion is shown in Table 3.
表3table 3
将A相原料混合,在75℃溶解,并保持75℃下加入B相,搅拌,冷却后得美白乳液。Mix the raw materials of phase A, dissolve at 75°C, and add phase B at 75°C, stir, and cool to obtain a whitening emulsion.
实施例六:本实施例中将实施例二中制备的活性组合物B加入化妆水的配方中来制备化妆水。其中化妆水的配方如表4所示。Example 6: In this example, the active composition B prepared in Example 2 is added to the formula of lotion to prepare lotion. Wherein the formula of lotion is shown in Table 4.
表4Table 4
将上述表4中的原料进行混合溶解,搅拌后得到化妆水。The raw materials in the above Table 4 were mixed and dissolved, and the lotion was obtained after stirring.
下述分别对实施例五制备的乳液和实施例六制备的化妆水进行人体美白功效评价测试。The emulsion prepared in Example 5 and the lotion prepared in Example 6 were evaluated for human body whitening efficacy as follows.
本发明中使用的活性组合物,可以作为美白和抗衰老化妆品的功效性原料,其使用形式没有特殊要求,它可以用于水剂,乳液等各种不同剂型的化妆品中。本应用发明人体美白功效实验中使用的是实施例五及实施例六中的配方产品,其中活性组合物添加质量比分别为10%及30%。The active composition used in the present invention can be used as a functional raw material for whitening and anti-aging cosmetics. There is no special requirement for its use form, and it can be used in various cosmetics such as water preparations and emulsions. In the human body whitening efficacy experiment of the present application invention, the formula products in Embodiment 5 and Embodiment 6 were used, and the mass ratios of the active composition added were 10% and 30% respectively.
受试人群:由10名25-45岁的健康志愿者组成。Subject population: It consists of 10 healthy volunteers aged 25-45.
受试方法:测试受试者使用化妆品在受试者前臂内侧用记号笔将其分成两个涂抹区域。受试者每天早晚在前臂内侧涂抹受试样品,靠近手腕部位涂抹空白配方产品(不含本发明活性组合物),连续使用28天。采用仪器采集每个区域的黑色素值、L值,并计算其平均值。Test method: The test subject uses cosmetics on the inside of the subject's forearm with a marker pen and divides it into two application areas. The subjects smeared the test sample on the inside of the forearm every morning and evening, and smeared a blank formula product (excluding the active composition of the present invention) near the wrist for 28 consecutive days. The melanin value and L value of each area were collected by an instrument, and the average value was calculated.
数据获取:采用德国CK公司的MPA580皮肤测试仪,其中Mexameter MX18(黑色素和血红素测试探头)检测皮肤黑色素,Colorimeter CL400(皮肤颜色测试探头)检测皮肤肤色均匀程度。Data acquisition: MPA580 skin tester from Germany CK Company was used, in which Mexameter MX18 (melanin and hemoglobin test probe) was used to detect skin melanin, and Colorimeter CL400 (skin color test probe) was used to detect skin color uniformity.
评估结果:黑色素是我们判断皮肤黑白的普通标准,肤色越亮白,黑色素值越低。由图3可知,两个测试样品连续使用28天后,对比两侧涂抹样品的结果,可明显看出,涂抹含活性组合物10%及含活性组合物30%的配方产品黑色素减少量大于空白,故涂抹含有活性组合物10%及30%的护肤化妆品可对控制黑色素生成具备良好效果。Evaluation results: Melanin is a common standard for us to judge the black and white of the skin. The brighter the skin tone, the lower the melanin value. As can be seen from Figure 3, after the two test samples have been used continuously for 28 days, comparing the results of the samples applied on both sides, it can be clearly seen that the amount of melanin reduction in the formula products containing 10% of the active composition and 30% of the active composition is greater than that of the blank. Therefore, applying skin care cosmetics containing 10% and 30% of the active composition can have a good effect on controlling melanin production.
L值是定义色彩的一个指标,在皮肤颜色上我们用来定义肤色的均匀亮度。肤色越均匀亮白,L值越高。从图4看出,两个样品连续使用28天后,涂抹空白样品的一侧L值提升的较少,故涂抹含有活性组合物10%及30%的护肤品或化妆品对提升皮肤亮度具有较好效果。The L value is an indicator that defines color, and in skin color we use it to define the uniform brightness of the skin tone. The more even and bright the skin tone, the higher the L value. It can be seen from Figure 4 that after the two samples were used continuously for 28 days, the L value on the side where the blank sample was applied increased less, so applying skin care products or cosmetics containing 10% and 30% of the active composition has a better effect on improving skin brightness. Effect.
从上述实施例可以看出,通过本发明的制备方法制备得到的活性组合物能有效地抑制酪氨酸酶活性,消除自由基,具备良好的抗氧化作用;将该活性组合物应用于制备化妆品或护肤品,得到的化妆品或护肤品除了具有天然清新的植物气味外,还具有持久的抗氧化、美白的功效。As can be seen from the above examples, the active composition prepared by the preparation method of the present invention can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, eliminate free radicals, and have good antioxidant effect; the active composition is applied to the preparation of cosmetics Or skin care products, the obtained cosmetics or skin care products not only have a natural and fresh plant smell, but also have long-lasting anti-oxidation and whitening effects.
以上内容是结合具体的优选实施方式对本发明所作的进一步详细说明,不能认定本发明的具体实施只局限于这些说明。对于本发明所属技术领域的技术人员来说,在不脱离本发明构思的前提下,还可以做出若干等同替代或明显变型,而且性能或用途相同,都应当视为属于本发明的保护范围。The above content is a further detailed description of the present invention in conjunction with specific preferred embodiments, and it cannot be assumed that the specific implementation of the present invention is limited to these descriptions. For those skilled in the art to which the present invention belongs, several equivalent substitutions or obvious modifications can be made without departing from the concept of the present invention, and those with the same performance or use should be deemed to belong to the protection scope of the present invention.
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