CN105420911A - Double-faced jacquard weaving technology - Google Patents
Double-faced jacquard weaving technology Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明提出了一种双面贾卡提花编织工艺,所述双针间隔织物采用电脑设计提花图案,所述双针间隔织物采用了7把梳栉进行编织,7把梳栉从前针床到后针床依次排列梳栉GB1,梳栉GB2、贾卡梳栉JB3.1、贾卡梳栉JB3.2、贾卡梳栉JB4.1、JB4.2、梳栉GB5,具体有编织步骤如下:(1)梳栉GB1为满穿做第一层纱线在前针床垫纱成圈,用于双针间隔织物的表层;(2)梳栉GB2为满穿做第二层纱线,分别在前针床和后针床交替成圈,形成连接表层和底层的间隔纱;(3)梳栉GB5为满穿做第五层纱线在后针床垫纱成圈,用于双针间隔织物的底层;本发明所制成的双针间隔织物花型层次分明,在视觉上具有良好的立体效果,同时简化了生产工序,大大节约了成本。The present invention proposes a double-sided jacquard knitting process, the double-needle spacer fabric adopts a computer-designed jacquard pattern, and the double-needle spacer fabric uses 7 bars for weaving, and the 7 bars are arranged from the front needle bed to the back. The needle bed is arranged in order of bar GB1, bar GB2, Jacquard bar JB3.1, Jacquard bar JB3.2, Jacquard bar JB4.1, JB4.2, and Jacquard bar GB5. The specific weaving steps are as follows: (1) Bar GB1 is used to make the first layer of yarn for full wear, and is used for the surface layer of the double-needle spacer fabric; (2) Bar GB2 is used for full wear to make the second layer of yarn, respectively Knit alternately on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed to form a spacer yarn connecting the surface layer and the bottom layer; (3) the bar GB5 is used to make the fifth layer of yarn for full wear and form a loop on the back needle bed yarn for double-needle spacing The bottom layer of the fabric; the pattern of the double-needle spacer fabric produced by the present invention is distinct, has a good three-dimensional effect visually, and simultaneously simplifies the production process and greatly saves the cost.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及面料,特别涉及一种双面贾卡提花编织工艺。The invention relates to fabrics, in particular to a double-sided jacquard weaving process.
背景技术Background technique
随着市场的需求,生活水平的提高,人们对生活物品的要求越来越高,对于面料来说不仅要轻便、透气、舒适、健康、环保;同时,还要求纺织面料时尚美观。现有市场上已有一些成型的纺织面料,但表面只能达到单色效果,要达到多种颜色效果则必须进行后续加工印花、涂层或热压等工序,操作复杂,成本高且不环保;目前,市面上的贾卡机虽然也可以穿两种以上材料的纱线进行编织,编织得到的经编布经染色后也有两种以上颜色。但是,由于现有工艺手段有限,得到的两种以上颜色的。With the demand of the market and the improvement of living standards, people have higher and higher requirements for daily necessities. For fabrics, it is not only light, breathable, comfortable, healthy, and environmentally friendly; at the same time, textile fabrics are also required to be fashionable and beautiful. There are already some formed textile fabrics on the market, but the surface can only achieve a single-color effect. To achieve multi-color effects, subsequent processing such as printing, coating or hot pressing must be carried out. The operation is complicated, the cost is high, and it is not environmentally friendly. At present, although the jacquard machines on the market can also wear yarns of more than two kinds of materials for weaving, the warp knitted fabric obtained by weaving also has more than two colors after dyeing. However, due to the limited means of the existing technology, more than two colors are obtained.
发明内容Contents of the invention
针对现有技术的不足之处,本发明提供一种双面贾卡提花编织工艺,它所制成的双针间隔织物花型层次分明,在视觉上具有良好的立体效果,同时简化了生产工序,大大节约了成本。Aiming at the deficiencies of the prior art, the present invention provides a double-sided jacquard weaving process, the pattern of the double-needle spacer fabric produced by it is distinct, has a good three-dimensional effect visually, and simplifies the production process at the same time , greatly saving costs.
为达到上述之目的本发明提供的技术方案是:一种双面贾卡提花编织工艺,所述双针间隔织物在双针床双贾卡提花经编机生产,双针床双贾卡提花经编机生产包括前针床和后针床,所述双针间隔织物采用电脑设计提花图案,其特征在于:所述双针间隔织物采用了7把梳栉进行编织,7把梳栉从前针床到后针床依次排列梳栉GB1,梳栉GB2、贾卡梳栉JB3.1、贾卡梳栉JB3.2、贾卡梳栉JB4.1、JB4.2、梳栉GB5,具体有编织步骤如下:In order to achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the technical solution provided by the present invention is: a double-sided jacquard jacquard knitting process, the double-needle spacer fabric is produced on a double-needle bed double jacquard warp knitting machine, and the double-needle bed double jacquard warp knitting The knitting machine production includes a front needle bed and a rear needle bed. The double-needle spacer fabric adopts a computer-designed jacquard pattern. It is characterized in that: the double-needle spacer fabric uses 7 bars for weaving. Arrange bar GB1, bar GB2, Jacquard bar JB3.1, Jacquard bar JB3.2, Jacquard bar JB4.1, JB4.2, and Jacquard bar GB5 in sequence on the rear needle bed, with specific weaving steps as follows:
(1)梳栉GB1为满穿做第一层纱线在前针床垫纱成圈,用于双针间隔织物的表层;(1) The bar GB1 is full wear and the first layer of yarn is looped on the front needle bed, which is used for the surface layer of the double-needle spacer fabric;
(2)梳栉GB2为满穿做第二层纱线,分别在前针床和后针床交替成圈,形成连接表层和底层的间隔纱;(2) The bar GB2 is full-threaded to make the second layer of yarn, which is alternately looped on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed respectively to form a spacer yarn connecting the surface layer and the bottom layer;
(3)梳栉GB5为满穿做第五层纱线在后针床垫纱成圈,用于双针间隔织物的底层;(3) The bar GB5 is full wear and the fifth layer of yarn is looped on the back needle bed yarn, which is used for the bottom layer of the double-needle spacer fabric;
(4)提花部分的编织为:贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡梳栉JB3.2中满穿第三纱线,贾卡梳栉JB4.1和贾卡梳栉JB4.2满穿第四纱线,在显示第三纱线的提花区域,贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡梳栉JB3.2在前针床垫纱成圈,贾卡梳栉JB4.1和JB4.2在前针床不编织;在需要显示第四纱线的提花区域,贾卡梳栉JB4.1和贾卡JB4.2在前针床编织,贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡JB3.2在前针床不编织;(4) The weaving of the jacquard part is: Jacquard bar JB3.1 and Jacquard bar JB3.2 are filled with the third yarn, and Jacquard bar JB4.1 and Jacquard bar JB4.2 are fully worn with the third yarn. Four yarns, in the jacquard area showing the third yarn, Jacquard bar JB3.1 and Jacquard bar JB3.2 in front needle bed yarn loop, Jacquard bar JB4.1 and JB4.2 in The front needle bed does not knit; in the jacquard area where the fourth yarn needs to be displayed, Jacquard bars JB4.1 and Jacquard JB4.2 knit on the front needle bed, and Jacquard bars JB3.1 and Jacquard JB3.2 The front needle bed does not knit;
进一步地,所述梳栉GB1的垫纱运动为1-0/0-0/0-1/1-1//。Further, the lapping movement of the bar GB1 is 1-0/0-0/0-1/1-1//.
进一步地,所述梳栉GB2的垫纱运动为0-1/1-0/1-0/0-1//。Further, the lapping movement of the bar GB2 is 0-1/1-0/1-0/0-1//.
进一步地,所述梳栉GB5的垫纱运动为1-1-1-0/1-1-1-0//。Further, the lapping motion of the bar GB5 is 1-1-1-0/1-1-1-0//.
进一步地,所述贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡JB3.2的垫纱基本组织为2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//。Further, the basic weaves of the laid yarns of the Jacquard bar JB3.1 and Jacquard JB3.2 are 2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//.
进一步地,贾卡梳栉JB4.1和贾卡JB4.2的基本运动为2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//。Further, the basic movement of Jacquard bar JB4.1 and Jacquard JB4.2 is 2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//.
进一步地,贾卡针在基本垫纱运动的基础上进行偏移动作以形成相应的提花纹理部,具体提花部的垫纱运动为:网孔区域的垫纱运动为0-1/1-1/1-0/1-1//向奇数横列偏移;平纹区域的垫纱运动为基本垫纱运动为2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//不进行偏移;厚实平纹区域的垫纱运动为3-2/2-2/0-1/1-1//向偶数横列偏移。Further, the jacquard needle performs an offset action on the basis of the basic yarn laying movement to form a corresponding jacquard texture part. The specific yarn laying movement of the jacquard part is: the laying movement of the mesh area is 0-1/1-1 /1-0/1-1//Offset to odd-numbered rows; the laying movement of the plain weave area is the basic laying movement of 2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//No offset; The laying movement in the thick plain weave area is 3-2/2-2/0-1/1-1//offset to even courses.
与现有技术相比,具有以下有益效果:Compared with the prior art, it has the following beneficial effects:
本发明所述双针间隔织物采用了7把梳栉进行编织,7把梳栉从前针床到后针床依次排列梳栉GB1,梳栉GB2、贾卡梳栉JB3.1、贾卡梳栉JB3.2、贾卡梳栉JB4.1、JB4.2、梳栉GB5,具体有编织步骤如下:(1)梳栉GB1为满穿做第一层纱线在前针床垫纱成圈,用于双针间隔织物的表层;(2)梳栉GB2为满穿做第二层纱线,分别在前针床和后针床交替成圈,形成连接表层和底层的间隔;(3)梳栉GB5为满穿做第五层纱线在后针床垫纱成圈,用于双针间隔织物的底层;(4)提花部分的编织为:贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡梳栉JB3.2中满穿第三纱线,贾卡梳栉JB4.1和贾卡梳栉JB4.2满穿第四纱线,在显示第三纱线的提花区域,贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡梳栉JB3.2在前针床垫纱成圈,贾卡梳栉JB4.1和JB4.2在前针床不编织;在需要显示第四纱线的提花区域,贾卡梳栉JB4.1和贾卡JB4.2在前针床编织,贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡JB3.2在前针床不编织;采用此工艺制成的双针间隔织物花型层次分明,外形美观,在视觉上具有良好的立体效果;同时一次成型,方便冲裁,节约人工成本。The double-needle spacer fabric of the present invention adopts 7 comb bars to weave, and the 7 comb bars are arranged sequentially from the front needle bed to the rear needle bed. Bar GB1, bar GB2, Jacquard bar JB3.1, Jacquard bar JB3.2, Jacquard bar JB4.1, JB4.2, and bar GB5, the specific weaving steps are as follows: (1) The first layer of yarn is made into loops on the front needle bed of the bar GB1 for full wear, It is used for the surface layer of the double-needle spacer fabric; (2) the bar GB2 is used to make the second layer of yarn for full wear, and is alternately looped on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed respectively to form the interval connecting the surface layer and the bottom layer; (3) comb Bar GB5 is full wear and the fifth layer of yarn is looped on the back needle bed yarn, which is used for the bottom layer of the double-needle spacer fabric; (4) the weaving of the jacquard part is: Jacquard bar JB3.1 and Jacquard bar Jacquard bar JB4.1 and Jacquard bar JB4.2 are fully threaded with the third yarn in the middle of JB3.2, and the fourth yarn is fully worn in the Jacquard area showing the third yarn, Jacquard bar JB3.1 Jacquard bar JB3.2 forms loops on the front needle bed, and Jacquard bars JB4.1 and JB4.2 do not knit on the front needle bed; in the jacquard area where the fourth yarn needs to be displayed, the Jacquard bar JB4.1 and Jacquard JB4.2 are knitted on the front needle bed, and Jacquard bar JB3.1 and Jacquard JB3.2 are not knitted on the front needle bed; the pattern of the double-needle spacer fabric made by this process is distinct, The appearance is beautiful, and it has a good three-dimensional effect visually; at the same time, it is formed at one time, which is convenient for punching and saves labor costs.
具体实施方式detailed description
一种双面贾卡提花编织工艺,所述双针间隔织物采用电脑设计提花图案,所述双针间隔织物采用了7把梳栉进行编织,7把梳栉从前针床到后针床依次排列梳栉GB1,梳栉GB2、贾卡梳栉JB3.1、贾卡梳栉JB3.2、贾卡梳栉JB4.1、JB4.2、梳栉GB5,具体有编织步骤如下:A double-sided jacquard knitting process, the double-needle spacer fabric adopts a computer-designed jacquard pattern, and the double-needle spacer fabric uses 7 bars for weaving, and the 7 bars are arranged in sequence from the front needle bed to the rear needle bed Bar GB1, bar GB2, Jacquard bar JB3.1, Jacquard bar JB3.2, Jacquard bar JB4.1, JB4.2, and Jacquard bar GB5, the specific weaving steps are as follows:
(1)梳栉GB1为满穿做第一层纱线在前针床垫纱成圈,用于双针间隔织物的表层,所述梳栉GB1的垫纱运动为1-0/0-0/0-1/1-1//。整经使用原料可以为涤纶DTY/FDY、锦纶DTY/FDY、改性涤纶纱、高弹性氨纶包心纱等其他不同规格的纱线进行编织,6个盘头每个盘头496-630根纱,GB1纱线在机台的穿纱以满穿的方式,齿轮送经量1600-2300mm/腊克。(1) The bar GB1 is full-threaded and the first layer of yarn is laid on the front needle bed to form a loop, which is used for the surface layer of the double-needle spacer fabric. The yarn laying motion of the bar GB1 is 1-0/0-0 /0-1/1-1//. Raw materials used in warping can be polyester DTY/FDY, nylon DTY/FDY, modified polyester yarn, high elastic spandex core-spun yarn and other yarns of different specifications for weaving, 6 pan heads each with 496-630 yarns , The threading of GB1 yarn on the machine is in full threading mode, and the let-off amount of the gear is 1600-2300mm/lack.
(2)梳栉GB2为满穿做第二层纱线,分别在前针床和后针床交替成圈,形成连接表层和底层的间隔纱;所述梳栉GB2的垫纱运动为(0-1/1-0/1-0/0-1//)。整经使用原料可以为涤纶FDY单丝等其他不同规格的纱线进行编织,6个盘头每个盘头496-630根纱,GB2纱线在机台的穿纱以满穿的方式,齿轮送经量4000-5000mm/腊克。(2) The bar GB2 is full wear to make the second layer of yarn, which is alternately looped on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed to form a spacer yarn connecting the surface layer and the bottom layer; the lapping motion of the bar GB2 is (0 -1/1-0/1-0/0-1//). The raw materials used in warping can be polyester FDY monofilament and other yarns of different specifications for weaving. Each of the 6 pan heads has 496-630 yarns. The let-off amount is 4000-5000mm/dick.
(3)梳栉GB5为满穿做第五层纱线在后针床垫纱成圈,用于双针间隔织物的底层;所述梳栉GB5的垫纱运动为1-1-1-0/1-1-1-0//。整经使用原料可以为涤纶DTY/FDY、锦纶DTY/FDY、改性涤纶纱、高弹性氨纶包心纱等其他不同规格的纱线进行编织,6个盘头每个盘头496-630根纱,GB5纱线在机台的穿纱以满穿的方式,齿轮送经量1600-2300mm/腊克。(3) The bar GB5 is full wear and the fifth layer of yarn is looped on the back needle bed, which is used for the bottom layer of the double-needle spacer fabric; the lapping motion of the bar GB5 is 1-1-1-0 /1-1-1-0//. Raw materials used in warping can be polyester DTY/FDY, nylon DTY/FDY, modified polyester yarn, high elastic spandex core-spun yarn and other yarns of different specifications for weaving, 6 pan heads each with 496-630 yarns , The threading of GB5 yarn on the machine is in full threading mode, and the let-off amount of the gear is 1600-2300mm/lack.
(4)提花部分的编织为:贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡梳栉JB3.2中满穿第三纱线,贾卡梳栉JB4.1和贾卡梳栉JB4.2满穿第四纱线,在显示第三纱线的提花区域,贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡梳栉JB3.2在前针床垫纱成圈,贾卡梳栉JB4.1和JB4.2在前针床不编织;在需要显示第四纱线的提花区域,贾卡梳栉JB4.1和贾卡JB4.2在前针床编织,贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡JB3.2在前针床不编织;(4) The weaving of the jacquard part is: Jacquard bar JB3.1 and Jacquard bar JB3.2 are filled with the third yarn, and Jacquard bar JB4.1 and Jacquard bar JB4.2 are fully worn with the third yarn. Four yarns, in the jacquard area showing the third yarn, Jacquard bar JB3.1 and Jacquard bar JB3.2 in front needle bed yarn loop, Jacquard bar JB4.1 and JB4.2 in The front needle bed does not knit; in the jacquard area where the fourth yarn needs to be displayed, Jacquard bars JB4.1 and Jacquard JB4.2 knit on the front needle bed, and Jacquard bars JB3.1 and Jacquard JB3.2 The front needle bed does not knit;
所述贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡JB3.2的垫纱基本组织为2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//,整经使用原料可以为涤纶DTY/FDY、锦纶DTY/FDY、改性涤纶纱、高弹性氨纶包心纱等其他不同规格的纱线进行编织,6个盘头每个盘头248-330根纱,贾卡梳栉JB3.1和贾卡JB3.2的纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量2000-3000mm/腊克。The basic structure of the laid yarn of the Jacquard bar JB3.1 and Jacquard JB3.2 is 2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//, and the raw materials used for warping can be polyester DTY/FDY, Nylon DTY/FDY, modified polyester yarn, high elastic spandex core-spun yarn and other yarns of different specifications are used for weaving, 6 pan heads each with 248-330 yarns, Jacquard bar JB3.1 and Jacquard The yarn of JB3.2 is threaded on the machine in the way of 1 thread and 1 empty, and the let-off amount of the gear is 2000-3000mm/lack.
贾卡梳栉JB4.1和贾卡JB4.2的基本运动为2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//。整经使用原料可以为涤纶DTY/FDY、锦纶DTY/FDY、改性涤纶纱、高弹性氨纶包心纱等其他不同规格的纱线进行编织,6个盘头每个盘头248-330根纱,贾卡梳栉JB4.1和贾卡JB4.2的纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量2000-3000mm/腊克。The basic movement of Jacquard bar JB4.1 and Jacquard JB4.2 is 2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//. Raw materials used in warping can be polyester DTY/FDY, nylon DTY/FDY, modified polyester yarn, high elastic spandex core-spun yarn and other yarns of different specifications for weaving, 6 pan heads each with 248-330 yarns , Jacquard bar JB4.1 and Jacquard JB4.2 yarns are threaded on the machine in the way of 1 thread and 1 empty, and the let-off amount of the gear is 2000-3000mm/lack.
贾卡针在基本垫纱运动的基础上进行偏移动作以形成相应的提花纹理部,具体提花部的垫纱运动为:网孔区域的垫纱运动为0-1/1-1/1-0/1-1//向奇数横列偏移;平纹区域的垫纱运动为基本垫纱运动为2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//不进行偏移;厚实平纹区域的垫纱运动为3-2/2-2/0-1/1-1//向偶数横列偏移。The jacquard needle performs an offset action on the basis of the basic yarn laying movement to form the corresponding jacquard texture part. The specific laying movement of the jacquard part is: the laying movement of the mesh area is 0-1/1-1/1- 0/1-1//offset to odd rows; the laying movement of the plain weave area is the basic laying movement of 2-1/1-1/0-1/1-1//no offset; thick plain weave area The laying movement of the yarn is 3-2/2-2/0-1/1-1//offset to even courses.
本发明一次成型,方便后期裁切,大大简化了生产工序,不仅节约了生产成本,同时大大提高了生产效率;并且所制成的双针间隔织物,花型层次分明,外形美观,在视觉上具有良好的立体效果。The invention can be formed at one time, which is convenient for later cutting, greatly simplifies the production process, not only saves the production cost, but also greatly improves the production efficiency; and the produced double-needle spacer fabric has clear patterns, beautiful appearance, and visually It has a good three-dimensional effect.
最后应说明的是:以上实施例仅用以说明本发明的技术方案而非限制,尽管参照较佳实施例对本发明进行了详细说明,本领域的普通技术人员应当理解,可以对本发明的技术方案进行修改或者等同替换,而不脱离本发明技术方案的精神和范围,其均应涵盖在本发明的权利要求范围当中。Finally, it should be noted that: the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention without limitation, although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those of ordinary skill in the art should understand that the technical solutions of the present invention can be Modifications or equivalent replacements without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention shall be covered by the claims of the present invention.
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