CN104988622A - Hemp-terylene twisted yarn and hemp forging fabric made of same - Google Patents
Hemp-terylene twisted yarn and hemp forging fabric made of same Download PDFInfo
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- CN104988622A CN104988622A CN201510407962.3A CN201510407962A CN104988622A CN 104988622 A CN104988622 A CN 104988622A CN 201510407962 A CN201510407962 A CN 201510407962A CN 104988622 A CN104988622 A CN 104988622A
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Abstract
The invention provides a hemp-terylene twisted yarn and hemp forging fabric made of same. The hemp-terelyene twisted yarn is formed when flax yarns and fine denier terylene filaments are twisted together; content of the flaxen in the flax yarns is 100%; numbers of the flax yarns are 28 to 36 Nm with twisting degree (TPI)of 9 TO 13.5; the fine denier terylene filaments are 30D/12F semi-extinction terylene low stretch yarns; and the twisting degree (TPI) of the hemp-terylene twisted yarn is 7 to 13. The invention further provides a hemp forging fabric prepared by the hemp-terylene twisted yarn. Deficiencies of uneasy weaving of the flax yarns, existences of holes, breakage and fabric separation during the weaving can be overcome; and the fabric made of the hemp-terylene twisted yarns is advantaged by smooth surface, soft hand feeling, great draping and great contact coldness sense.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the fiber crops forging fabric that a kind of fiber crops wash twisted yarn and preparation thereof, belong to field of textile.
Background technology
Sodolin is traditional garment material, this raw material of fabric nature environmental protection, and style is simple and tasteful, have split joint due to its raw material surface smoothing, therefore good luster, this fabric also has the advantage that moisture permeability is good and dress is nice and cool in addition, the dark favor by domestic and international consumer.But because linen thread and yarn rigidity is large, fiber crops joint is many, the features such as dry and astringent and filoplume is many, thus make fabric have following weakness: 1. due to pure numb expensive raw material price, when large circle machine weft knitting braiding, process difficult of weaving cotton cloth, the problems such as easy generation broken hole, broken yarn, Tuo Bu and bad pin, the loss that makes to weave cotton cloth is excessive, and loss of weaving cotton cloth up to 20%, can cause high cost; 2. due to difficulty of weaving cotton cloth, revolving speed of knitting machine is low, and production capacity is low, defective cloth and mend single many, causes presentate difficulty; 3. due to the feature of flax raw material, fabric feeling is coarse firm, fiber crops joint filoplume has significantly uncomfortable and prodding and itching feeling when causing wearing more, and yarn rigidity is large, work to break is little, and elastic recovery is poor, the easy fold of cloth cover and pilling, not washable, significantly reduce the satisfaction of wearability and consumer.
Therefore, research and develop a kind of novel flax fabric and become this area problem demanding prompt solution.
Summary of the invention
For solving the problems of the technologies described above, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of fiber crops to wash the fiber crops forging fabric of twisted yarn and preparation thereof, this face weave is simple, soft, drapability is good, has excellent moisture absorption and desorption property, washing fastness, anti-microbial property and contact coldness simultaneously.
For achieving the above object, the invention provides a kind of fiber crops and washing twisted yarn, it is twisted by one linen thread and yarn and one fine-denier polyester yarns and obtains, wherein:
In described linen thread and yarn, the content of flax is 100%, and the number of this linen thread and yarn is 28-36Nm, twist TPI is 9-13.5 (TPI (twist per inch): the number of twists of inches yarn);
Described fine-denier polyester yarns is 30D/12F half delustring low elastic polyester filament;
The twist TPI that described fiber crops wash twisted yarn is 7-13.
Wash in twisted yarn above-mentioned fiber crops, preferably, the single thread of linen thread and yarn is twisted with the fingers and is twisted with the fingers to for Z; The sth. made by twisting that fiber crops wash twisted yarn is twisted with the fingers to for S.
Adopt linen thread and yarn number (28-36Nm) provided by the invention, the fabric grammes per square metre produced is less, the contact area of fabric and air can be made like this to increase, and moisture scatters and disappears sooner, thus reach that quality is frivolous, gas permeability is strong, lead wet fast effect; In addition, 30D/12F half delustring low elastic polyester filament and described linen thread and yarn is adopted to twist, linen thread and yarn can either be kept to be the style of main body, greatly can increase again brute force and pliability that fiber crops wash the overall yarn of twisted yarn, fabric that twisted yarn produces has better gas permeability, nice and cool property and contact coldness etc. to adopt these fiber crops to wash.
Present invention also offers and a kind ofly prepare the method that above-mentioned fiber crops wash twisted yarn, it comprises the following steps:
Linen thread and yarn and fine-denier polyester yarns are carried out doubling, then twists, obtain fiber crops and wash twisted yarn; Wherein:
When carrying out doubling, the ingot speed controlling doubling frame is 4500-6500r/min;
When twisting, the ingot speed controlling twisting mill is 4000-6000r/min, and the tension force of linen thread and yarn is 5-20cN, and the tension force of fine-denier polyester yarns is 1-9cN.
Technical scheme provided by the invention, by strengthening the tension force of linen yarn, reduces the tension force of polyester filament, can prevent when twisting originally be Z twist with the fingers to early stage of linen yarn twist against twist produce sth. made by twisting and stretch, and produce twist contraction after the twisting of non-twist polyester filament.
Present invention also offers a kind of fiber crops forging fabric, it is washed twisted yarn by above-mentioned fiber crops and is prepared by following steps:
A, fiber crops are washed twisted yarn and carry out comprising the pre-treatment of boiling yarn or dyeing, crossing consistent lubricant;
B, twisted yarn is washed to the above-mentioned fiber crops through pre-treatment carry out winder, during winder, twisted yarn is washed to described fiber crops and carried out Lasaxing Oilfield;
C, the fiber crops through step b process are washed twisted yarn and pure terylene filament carries out row's weaving yarns, obtain fiber crops forging fabric.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, after step a terminates, what keep fiber crops to wash twisted yarn is 12-15% containing damp rate; In stepb, when carrying out winder, what keep fiber crops to wash twisted yarn is 12-15% containing damp rate.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, in step c, when carrying out row's weaving yarns, what keep fiber crops to wash twisted yarn is 12-15% containing damp rate.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, in step c, the pure terylene filament that this area uses all can be used for technical scheme provided by the invention, and described terylene filament can be preferably 150D/144F terylene thread.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, after step c terminates, also comprise biological filtering layer is carried out to fiber crops forging fabric, softener arranges, the step of hydrophilic finiss and antibiotic finish.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, the step of dyeing and wash water process can also be comprised, carry out wash water process and can remove the numb hydrophobic contaminants forged on fabric, improve the hydrophilicity of fabric, make fabric obtain the effect of hydroscopic fast-drying.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, the step that resin sizing arranges can also be comprised.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, in step c, the institutional framework of fiber crops forging fabric comprises one side plain weave, PIQUE, PIQUE of trying to stop people from fighting each other, 6 mould PIQUE or LACOSTEs.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, row's yarn mode of one side plain weave is: the 1st mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and the 2nd mould is pure terylene filament, and carries out weaving (as shown in a in Fig. 1) as minimal circulation unit; Or the 1st mould is pure terylene filament, the 2nd mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and carries out weaving (as shown in b in Fig. 1) as minimal circulation unit; The technique of its looming weaving is as shown in table 1:
Row's weaving yarns technique of table 1 one side plain weave
One side plain weave adopts this special row's weaving yarns mode (as shown in Figure 1), can make cloth cover smooth, soft more, have the drapability as silks and satins, wear cool and comfortable more.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, row's yarn mode of PIQUE is: the 1st mould is pure terylene filament, and the 2nd mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and the 3rd mould is pure terylene filament, and the 4th mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and weaves as minimal circulation unit; The technique of its looming weaving is as shown in table 2:
Row's weaving yarns technique of table 2 PIQUE
PIQUE tissue adopts this special row's weaving yarns mode (as shown in Figure 2), can either retain the distinctive third dimension of this institutional framework and texture, can promote again the feel of fabric softness pendency and bright and clean outward appearance.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, row's yarn mode of described PIQUE of trying to stop people from fighting each other is: the 1st mould is the blended yarns that pure terylene filament is made with elastic filament of trying to stop people from fighting each other, 2nd mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, 3rd mould is the blended yarns that pure terylene filament is made with elastic filament of trying to stop people from fighting each other, 4th mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and weaves as minimal circulation unit; The technique of its looming weaving is as shown in table 3:
Table 3 is tried to stop people from fighting each other row's weaving yarns technique of PIQUE
PIQUE tissue of trying to stop people from fighting each other adopts this special row's weaving yarns mode (as shown in Figure 3), both the distinctive third dimension of this institutional framework and texture had been retained, the feel of fabric softness pendency and bright and clean outward appearance can be promoted again, fabric can be made to have good elastic stretching and recoverability simultaneously.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, row's yarn mode of described 6 mould PIQUEs is: the 1st mould is pure terylene filament, 2nd mould and the 3rd mould are fiber crops and wash twisted yarn, 4th mould is pure terylene filament, and the 5th mould and the 6th mould are fiber crops and wash twisted yarn, and weave as minimal circulation unit; The technique of its looming weaving is as shown in table 4:
Row's weaving yarns technique of table 46 mould PIQUE
6 mould PIQUE tissues adopt this special row's weaving yarns mode (as shown in Figure 4), can either retain the distinctive large pearl eye effect of this institutional framework and texture, greatly can promote again the feel of fabric softness pendency and bright and clean outward appearance.
In above-mentioned fabric, preferably, row's yarn mode of described LACOSTE is: the 1st mould is pure terylene filament, and the 2nd mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and the 3rd mould is pure terylene filament, and the 4th mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and weaves as minimal circulation unit; The technique of its looming weaving is as shown in table 5:
Row's weaving yarns technique of table 5 LACOSTE
LACOSTE tissue adopts this special row's weaving yarns mode (as shown in Figure 5), can either retain this institutional framework distinctive honeycomb mesh effect and texture, greatly can promote again the feel of fabric softness pendency and bright and clean outward appearance.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, in step c, when carrying out row's weaving yarns, what keep fiber crops to wash twisted yarn is 12% containing damp rate; More preferably, when weaving, controlling board rotating speed is 14-18r/min, and entering yarn tension is 8-12cN, and needle gage is 18-24G, and yarn is long is 50C=150-170mm (50C represents the overall length of 50 coils).Because linen thread and yarn rigidity is large, fiber crops joint is many, the feature such as dry and astringent, when large circle machine weft knitting braiding, process difficult of weaving cotton cloth, the problems such as easy generation broken hole, broken yarn, Tuo Bu and bad pin, the technology that method provided by the invention twist owing to adopting linen thread and yarn and terylene, difficulty of weaving cotton cloth lowers greatly, technical scheme provided by the invention control in the process of weaving cotton cloth numb wash twisted yarn to contain damp rate be 12-15%, loom running can be guaranteed smoothly, prevent broken yarn and reduce fault.
Wash in twisted yarn above-mentioned fiber crops, knitting equipment used when weaving comprise the FEED machine of being furnished with active yarn transmission device or be furnished with half active type yarn-feeding device automatic between machine, wherein: described FEED machine is one side circular knitting machine.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, at described biological filtering layer is included in 40-60 DEG C, fiber crops are forged fabric to be placed in enzyme washing lotion and to process 40-80min, wherein, the composition of described enzyme washing lotion comprises: 2-4g/L cellulase, 0.5-1g/L sodium acetate and 0.5-1g/L acetic acid, and the bath raio of described fabric and enzyme washing lotion is 1:18-40.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, described soft finish comprises and fiber crops is forged the solution that fabric is placed in containing softener and process, wherein, described softener comprises hydrophilic silicon oil, and this hydrophilic silicon oil is more preferably hydrophily textile finshing agent JSS or STS, and its concentration is 2-75g/L.
In actual production process, soft finish can be carried out step by step: when to described fiber crops forging fabric dye or wash water time, can add above-mentioned hydrophily textile finshing agent in dye bath or wash water bath, its concentration is 2-5g/L, and its service condition can require to carry out according to coloration requirements or wash water; When carrying out resin sizing to described fiber crops forging fabric and arranging, can add above-mentioned hydrophily textile finshing agent in sizing dressing liquid, its concentration is 25-75g/L, and its service condition can arrange requirement according to resin sizing and carry out.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, described antibiotic finish comprises to forge the solution that fabric is placed in containing antibacterial finishing agent and processes by fiber crops, wherein, described antibacterial finishing agent comprises organosilicon-quaternary ammonium compound, and its concentration is 20-40g/L.
In actual production, antibiotic finish can be shaped for being organized in same bath with resin and be carried out simultaneously, namely in resin sizing dressing liquid, adds above-mentioned antibacterial finishing agent, and the requirement that its service condition can arrange according to resin sizing is carried out.
It is bright and clean that linen fibre is straight, do not have the torsion of fibers such as cotton, hair, although this feature makes it lose the elasticity of fiber product and be easy to wrinkling, it is straight bright and clean fibre structure, makes bacterium be not easy to grow.Therefore, linen fibre is to Pseudomonas aeruginosa, white bead-containing bacteria, and Escherichia coli, gold-coloured staphylococci etc. all have significant bacteriostasis.The present invention adopts antibiotic finish technology more greatly can improve the anti-microbial property of fabric, reduces bacterium to the harm of human body.The release that method provided by the invention can allow antibacterial finishing agent and fabric generation chemical bond, the fabric after arranging pass through effectively to control, regeneration principle, obstruction or blocking action can resist germ infringement.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, preferably, described fiber crops forging fabric is after above-mentioned a series of Final finishing, and the grammes per square metre of fabric is 150-230g/m
3, the unit are grammes per square metre of fabric is less, and the contact area of fabric and air is larger, and such moisture is able to scatter and disappear sooner, so under identical hygroscopicity condition, the grammes per square metre of fabric is less, its nice and cool property gas permeability is better.
In actual production, implementing procedure can comprise: yarn pre-treatment → weave → perching → standby cloth → open-width → enzyme is washed → dye (crossing consistent lubricant/piece dyeing) or wash water (cross consistent lubricant/yarn-dyed) → → SANT oven dry → middle inspection → sizing of dewatering → control (mistake consistent lubricant) → preshrunk → examine afterwards.
Technical scheme provided by the invention is by improving linen thread and yarn, and make raw material be applicable to braiding, not easily broken yarn, reduces the loss of yarn and the fault of cloth cover in knitting process, improve production capacity of weaving cotton cloth.In addition, by the improvement to raw material, namely by using fine-denier polyester yarns that linen thread and yarn is adopted certain technique parcel, feel and wearability can effectively be improved.In addition to fabric structure, dye washes technique, soft treatment, improving of rear whole technique, makes fabric be different from common flax fabric completely, and fiber crops forging fabric provided by the invention has following characteristics:
1) weave simply, change linen thread and yarn and not easily weave, easily produce the defect of the problems such as broken hole, broken yarn, Tuo Bu and bad pin in weaving process, large gauge is produced becomes possibility;
2) fabric face smooth pieces, feel particularly soft, drapability is good, comfortable and easy to wear;
3) have extremely strong moisture absorption and moisture releasing performance, fabric is dry and comfortable ventilative, and dress is nice and cool;
4) there is fabulous contact coldness;
5) there is antibacterial, antibacterial characteristic;
6) washability is good, not easily pilling.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 tabbyly weaves schematic diagram;
Fig. 2 be PIQUE tissue weave schematic diagram;
Fig. 3 be try to stop people from fighting each other PIQUE tissue weave schematic diagram;
Fig. 4 be 6 mould PIQUE tissues weave schematic diagram;
Fig. 5 be LACOSTE tissue weave schematic diagram.
Detailed description of the invention
In order to there be understanding clearly to technical characteristic of the present invention, object and beneficial effect, existing following detailed description is carried out to technical scheme of the present invention, but can not be interpreted as to of the present invention can the restriction of practical range.
Embodiment 1
Present embodiments provide a kind of fiber crops and wash twisted yarn, the preparation method that these fiber crops wash twisted yarn comprises the following steps:
Select 100% linen thread and yarn (yam count is respectively 28Nm, 36Nm), determine that number be the twist TPI of the linen thread and yarn of 28Nm is 9.5+/-2%, number is the twist TPI of the linen thread and yarn of 36Nm is 13.5+/-2%, determine that the sth. made by twisting of single thread flax is twisted with the fingers to for " Z ", the sth. made by twisting of twisting with terylene is twisted with the fingers to for " S ";
(this terylene thread is 30D/12F half delustring low elastic polyester filament to select fine-denier polyester yarns, it take polyester slice as raw material, adopt and at a high speed spin terylene pre-oriented fiber, process through drafting false twisting), this terylene thread is false twisting (can think no twist);
After choosing yarn, weave front cleaning machine, guarantee that yarn flyings are eliminated totally on board, then according to following technique to above-mentioned two kinds of yarns carry out twisting process (one linen thread and yarn and one fine-denier polyester yarns are twisted): by 30D fine-denier polyester yarns respectively with above-mentioned linen thread and yarn (28Nm, 36Nm) first carry out doubling (doubling frame ingot speed is 6200r/min), carry out after doubling completes twisting (twisting mill ingot speed is 5500r/min), during twisting, the tension force controlling linen thread and yarn is 5-20cN, the tension force of polyester filament be 1-9cN (during twisting be originally Z twist with the fingers to early stage of linen yarn twist against twist sth. made by twisting can be caused to stretch, then twist contraction is produced after non-twist polyester filament twisting.Therefore S twists with the fingers to and tension force collocation when twisting with the fingers should strengthen the tension force of linen yarn, reduce the tension force of polyester filament), the fiber crops obtained after twisting wash the sth. made by twisting of twisted yarn to being " S ", and its twist (TPI) is as shown in table 6 below.
The fiber crops that embodiment 1 obtains are washed twisted yarn weave, and the cloth specimen after braiding is tested (test result is as shown in table 6), and compare with comparative example (table 7).
The test result of table 6 embodiment 1
As can be seen from Table 6, the twist TPI that the fiber crops obtained after the linen yarn of 28Nm, 36Nm and the terylene thread of 30D/12F being twisted respectively wash twisted yarn can weave cotton cloth when being 7-13 smoothly, when fiber crops wash the twist (TPI) of twisted yarn excessive or too low time (as shown in table 7), be unfavorable for weaving cotton cloth.In addition, quality is frivolous, gas permeability strong, lead wet fast fabric to select flax yarn count of 28-36Nm to obtain, because the unit are grammes per square metre of fabric is less, the contact surface of fabric and air is larger, such moisture is able to scatter and disappear sooner, so when identical hygroscopicity condition, the grammes per square metre of fabric is less, its nice and cool property, gas permeability are better, meet the grammes per square metre requirement of spring and summer fabric.
The test result of table 7 comparative example
The fiber crops obtained embodiment 1 are washed twisted yarn and carry out strength test, and test process carries out according to Wu Site method of testing, and test result is as shown in table 8.
Table 8 strength test result
As can be seen from Table 8: compared with the 36Nm linen yarn before twisting, the yarn count that the fiber crops that the present embodiment provides wash twisted yarn is thicker, the twist (TPI) reduces, yarn strength increases, weavability promotes, and rigidity reduces simultaneously, and fabrics feel soft, elastic recovery are good.
The fiber crops provided embodiment 1 are washed twisted yarn (twist TPI of this twisted yarn is 12) and carry out filoplume test, and test process carries out according to Wu Site method of testing, and test result is as shown in table 9.
Table 9 filoplume test result
As can be seen from Table 9: compared with the 36Nm linen yarn before twisting, the hairiness index that the fiber crops that the present embodiment provides wash twisted yarn reduces, and is conducive to cloth cover bright and clean, comfortable and easy to wear.
The fiber crops that embodiment 1 provides are washed twisted yarn and linen yarn makes fabric respectively, carry out water retention rate test, test result is as shown in table 10.
As can be seen from Table 10: compared with the 36Nm linen yarn before twisting, the water retention rate that the fiber crops that the present embodiment provides wash twisted yarn is lower, the moisture that water retention rate low expression fabric is trapped in fabric after absorbing aqueous vapor is less, in fabric, aqueous vapor is easy to distribute, namely loose moist good, fabric easily keeps dry and comfortable, favourable to the nice and cool property improving fabric.Water retention rate is low in addition, moisture few after fabric squezzing, is easy to dry, and is conducive to low-carbon energy-saving.
The fiber crops provided embodiment 1 are washed twisted yarn and carry out thermal conductivity test, and the heat conductivility of fabric reflects the heat trnasfer speed of fabric.The fabric that thermal conductivity is good has good heat dispersion, and during skin contact fabric, to people's instantaneous touch cooling feeling, be suitable as fabric in summer, the concrete method of testing of thermal conductivity is carried out according to GB/T 11048-2008, and test result is as shown in table 11.
Table 10 water retention rate test result
Table 11 thermal conductivity test result
Note: contact cold warming test condition: room temperature: 20.1 DEG C, humidity: 65% ± 4%RH, 1. Δ T=10 DEG C, 2. Δ T=20 DEG C, measures face: wrap up in face.
As can be seen from Table 11: compared with the 36Nm linen yarn before twisting, the fiber crops that the present embodiment provides wash twisted yarn, and it is instantaneously by the heat flow (W/cm of per unit contact area
2) comparatively large, instantaneously by the heat flow (W/cm of per unit contact area
2) larger, contact cool feeling is stronger, and the cold warming effect of contact of the fabric produced is just better, has more cool feeling when the ready-made clothes be made up is worn of it.
Embodiment 2
Present embodiments provide a kind of fiber crops forging fabric, it is obtained that this fabric is that the fiber crops adopting embodiment 1 to provide wash twisted yarn (36Nm flax/30D/12F terylene, the twist TPI of this twisted yarn is 12), and its preparation method comprises the following steps:
1) wash twisted yarn to fiber crops and carry out pre-treatment, the technique of described pre-treatment is as follows:
Fiber crops are washed twisted yarn (36Nm flax/30D/12F terylene, the twist TPI of this twisted yarn is 12) to be placed in 100 DEG C of water-baths and to boil 60min; Then wash through well-done fiber crops the softener solution (softener used is JSS consistent lubricant (Magnasoft JSS)) that twisted yarn is placed in 4g/L, at 50 DEG C, process 15min; Then dewater, dry, controlling containing damp rate is 12%, crosses wax (can control containing damp rate when crossing wax is 12%) during winder;
2) upper woven fabric
A, upper machine check: adopt large circle machine to weave, controlling board rotating speed is 16r/min, adjustment tension force is 10cN, cloth cover is checked every 5 grey cloths, prevent broken hole and broken needle, inspection 3 cloth and the grey cloth having broken hole problem, needle gage is 24G, loop length is 160mm/50 pin, and what board is installed spray moisturing device control yarn is 12% containing damp rate;
B, row's yarn are weaved cotton cloth: the 1st mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and the 2nd mould is pure terylene filament, and carries out weaving (as shown in a in Fig. 1) as minimal circulation unit, and the technique of its looming weaving is as shown in table 1, obtain one side plain weave fiber crops forging fabric;
3) dye Final finishing
A, above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric is carried out enzyme and washes: biology enzyme used is cellulase, is the CELLUSOFT of letter (China) Bioisystech Co., Ltd of Novi production
tMenzyme; Enzyme washed technique: be 5.5 by acetic acid adjusted to ph, and then carry out biological filtering layer by the enzyme washing lotion prepared according to following table 12, bath raio is 1:25, in 50 DEG C of process 60 minutes.
The composition of table 12 enzyme washing lotion
| Composition | Concentration |
| Sodium acetate NaAc | 0.5g/L |
| Acetic acid HAc | 0.5g/L |
| CELLUSOFT CR50*CX45’PROG 0120(B) | 2g/L |
B, dyeing: the fabric after washing enzyme dyes, adopt conventional dyeing process during dyeing, and in dye liquor, add 2g/L JSS consistent lubricant (Magnasoft JSS), then dewater, dry.
C, wash water process: first to first cleaning equipment with the cleaning fluid prepared before entering cloth, then above-mentioned fabric is carried out wash water process, wash water temperature is 80 DEG C, and the wash water time is 30min, and the composition of wash water treatment fluid is as shown in table 13.Hydrophily test can be carried out to fabric after wash water process terminates.
The composition of table 13 wash water treatment fluid
| Composition | Concentration | Manufacturer |
| Bleeding agent FKS | 1.0g/L | Xianqiao Chemical Product Co., Ltd., Qianjiang City |
| Low temperature degreaser DM-133 | 0.8g/L | Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. |
| Wrinkle preventing agent CIBA FLUID C | 1.0g/L | Hensel steps weaving dyeization (China) Co., Ltd |
| Na 2CO 3 | 0.5g/L |
D, softener RESIN FINISH and antibiotic finish: the fabric after above-mentioned dyeing is placed in sizing dressing liquid, setting temperature is 150 DEG C, and the speed of setting machine is 20m/min, and the composition of this dressing liquid is as shown in table 14.
Table 14 is shaped the composition of dressing liquid
| Composition | Concentration | Manufacturer |
| Resin finishing agent (dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea) | 30g/L | BASF China |
| Catalyst (magnesium chloride) | 6g/L | |
| JSS consistent lubricant (Magnasoft JSS) | 50g/L | Bright note Hong Kong cleaning supplies Co., Ltd |
| Bleeding agent (aliphatic alcohol polyethenoxy) | 1-2g/L | |
| Antiseptic (Ultra-fresh NM) | 35g/L | Letter (China) Bioisystech Co., Ltd of Novi |
Obtain having cold fiber crops forging fabric of dazzling texture, described cold texture of dazzling refers to that these fiber crops are forged fabric and present bright and clean outward appearance, the soft and smooth feel as silks and satins, and has the superior functions such as nice and cool, antibacterial, hydroscopic fast-drying.
Embodiment 3
Present embodiments provide a kind of fiber crops forging fabric, it is obtained that this fabric is that the fiber crops adopting embodiment 1 to provide wash twisted yarn (36Nm flax/30D/12F terylene, the twist TPI of this twisted yarn is 12), and the preparation method of this fabric comprises the following steps:
1) wash twisted yarn to fiber crops to dye and pre-treatment, the technique of described pre-treatment is as follows:
Fiber crops are washed twisted yarn and first carry out normal dyeing, dyeing is placed in the softener solution of 4g/L, and softener used is JSS consistent lubricant (Magnasoft JSS), processes 15min at 50 DEG C; Then dewater, dry, controlling containing damp rate is 12%, crosses wax (can control containing damp rate when crossing wax is 12%) during winder;
2) upper woven fabric
A, upper machine check: adopt large circle machine to weave, controlling board rotating speed is 16r/min, adjustment tension force is 10cN, cloth cover is checked every 5 grey cloths, prevent broken hole and broken needle, inspection 3 cloth and the grey cloth having broken hole problem, needle gage is 24G, loop length is 160mm/50 pin, and what board is installed spray moisturing device control yarn is 12% containing damp rate;
B, row's yarn are weaved cotton cloth: the 1st mould is pure terylene filament, and the 2nd mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and carries out weaving (as shown in b in Fig. 1) as minimal circulation unit, and the technique of its looming weaving is as shown in table 1, obtain one side plain weave fiber crops forging fabric;
3) Final finishing
A, fabric is carried out enzyme wash: biology enzyme used is cellulase, is the CELLUSOFT of letter (China) Bioisystech Co., Ltd of Novi production
tMenzyme; Enzyme washed technique: be 5.5 by acetic acid adjusted to ph, and then carry out biological filtering layer by the enzyme washing lotion prepared according to following table 15, bath raio is 1:25, in 50 DEG C of process 60 minutes.
B, excessively soft: consistent lubricant crossed by the fiber crops forging fabric after being washed by enzyme, and in the aqueous solution containing 2g/LJSS consistent lubricant, process 45 DEG C × 30min, then dewaters, dries.
The composition of table 15 enzyme washing lotion
C, wash water process: first to first cleaning equipment with the cleaning fluid prepared before entering cloth, then above-mentioned fabric is carried out wash water process, wash water temperature is 80 DEG C, and the wash water time is 30min, and the composition of wash water treatment fluid is shown in table 16.Hydrophily test can be carried out to fabric after wash water process terminates.
The composition of table 16 wash water treatment fluid
| Composition | Concentration | Manufacturer |
| Bleeding agent FKS | 1.0g/L | Xianqiao Chemical Product Co., Ltd., Qianjiang City |
| Low temperature degreaser DM-133 | 0.8g/L | Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. |
| Wrinkle preventing agent CIBA FLUID C | 1.0g/L | Hensel steps weaving dyeization (China) Co., Ltd |
| Na 2CO 3 | 0.5g/L |
D, softener RESIN FINISH and antibiotic finish: above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric is placed in dressing liquid, and setting temperature is 150 DEG C, and the speed of setting machine is 20m/min, and the composition of this dressing liquid is shown in table 17.
Table 17 is shaped the composition of dressing liquid
| Composition | Concentration | Manufacturer |
| Resin finishing agent (dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea) | 30g/L | BASF China |
| Catalyst (magnesium chloride) | 6g/L | |
| JSS consistent lubricant (Magnasoft JSS) | 50g/L | Bright note Hong Kong cleaning supplies Co., Ltd |
| Bleeding agent (aliphatic alcohol polyethenoxy) | 1-2g/L | BASF China |
| Antiseptic (Ultra-fresh NM) | 35g/L | Letter (China) Bioisystech Co., Ltd of Novi |
Obtain that there is cold fiber crops forging fabric of dazzling texture.
Embodiment 4
Present embodiments provide a kind of fiber crops forging fabric, it is obtained that this fabric is that the fiber crops adopting embodiment 1 to provide wash twisted yarn (36Nm flax/30D/12F terylene, the twist TPI of this twisted yarn is 12), and its preparation method comprises the following steps:
1) wash twisted yarn to fiber crops to dye and pre-treatment, the technique of described pre-treatment is as follows:
Fiber crops are washed twisted yarn and first carry out normal dyeing, dyeing is placed in the softener solution of 4g/L that (softener used is JSS consistent lubricant (Magnasoft JSS), processes 15min at 50 DEG C; Then dewater, dry, controlling containing damp rate is 12%, crosses wax during winder, and can control containing damp rate when crossing wax is 12%;
2) upper woven fabric
A, upper machine check: adopt large circle machine to weave, controlling board rotating speed is 16r/min, adjust into yarn tension be 10cN, cloth cover is checked every 5 grey cloths, prevent broken hole and broken needle, inspection 3 cloth and the grey cloth having broken hole problem, needle gage is 24G, loop length is 160mm/50 pin, and what board is installed spray moisturing device control yarn is 12% containing damp rate;
B, row's yarn are weaved cotton cloth: the 1st mould is pure terylene filament, 2nd mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, 3rd mould is pure terylene filament, 4th mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and carry out weaving (as shown in Figure 2) as minimal circulation unit, the technique of its looming weaving is as shown in table 2, obtains PIQUE fiber crops forging fabric;
3) Final finishing
A, fabric is carried out enzyme wash: biology enzyme used is cellulase, is the CELLUSOFT of letter (China) Bioisystech Co., Ltd of Novi production
tMenzyme; Enzyme washed technique: be 5.5 by acetic acid adjusted to ph, and then carry out biological filtering layer by the enzyme washing lotion prepared according to following table 18, bath raio is 1:25, in 50 DEG C of process 60 minutes.
B, excessively soft: consistent lubricant crossed by the fiber crops forging fabric after being washed by enzyme, and in the aqueous solution containing 2g/LJSS consistent lubricant, process 45 DEG C × 10min, then dewaters, dries.
The composition of table 18 enzyme washing lotion
C, wash water process: first to first cleaning equipment with the cleaning fluid prepared before entering cloth, then above-mentioned fabric is carried out wash water process, wash water temperature is 80 DEG C, and the wash water time is 30min, and the composition of wash water treatment fluid is shown in table 19.Hydrophily test can be carried out to fabric after wash water process terminates.
The composition of table 19 wash water treatment fluid
| Composition | Concentration | Manufacturer |
| Bleeding agent FKS | 1.0g/L | Xianqiao Chemical Product Co., Ltd., Qianjiang City |
| Low temperature degreaser DM-133 | 0.8g/L | Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. |
| Wrinkle preventing agent CIBA FLUID C | 1.0g/L | Hensel steps weaving dyeization (China) Co., Ltd |
| Na 2CO 3 | 0.5g/L |
D, softener RESIN FINISH and antibiotic finish: above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric is placed in dressing liquid, and setting temperature is 150 DEG C, and the speed of setting machine is 20m/min, and the composition of this dressing liquid is shown in table 20.
Table 20 is shaped the composition of dressing liquid
| Composition | Concentration | Manufacturer |
| Resin finishing agent (dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea) | 30g/L | BASF China |
| Catalyst (magnesium chloride) | 6g/L | |
| JSS consistent lubricant (Magnasoft JSS) | 50g/L | Bright note Hong Kong cleaning supplies Co., Ltd |
| Bleeding agent (aliphatic alcohol polyethenoxy) | 1-2g/L |
| Antiseptic (Ultra-fresh NM) | 35g/L | Letter (China) Bioisystech Co., Ltd of Novi |
Obtain having cold fiber crops forging fabric of dazzling texture, described cold texture of dazzling refers to that these fiber crops are forged fabric and present bright and clean outward appearance, the soft and smooth feel as silks and satins, and has the superior functions such as nice and cool, antibacterial, hydroscopic fast-drying.
Embodiment 5
The present embodiment has carried out following performance test to the fiber crops forging fabric that above-described embodiment 3 provides:
1) gas permeability test: the index weighing gas permeability quality is air penetrability, namely under the Area of Sample specified, pressure and time conditions, air-flow is perpendicular through the speed (mm/s or m/s) of sample.Carry out gas permeability test according to textiles method for testing air permeability to the fiber crops forging fabric that embodiment 3 provides, test result is as shown in table 21 below.
Table 21 gas permeability test result
Gas permeability affects the wet balance of heat of clothes, by unit are (cm in the second unit interval (s)
2) garment material through gas (cm
3) more, the gas permeability of fabric is better, and fiber crops forging fabric provided by the invention has good gas permeability as can be seen from Table 21, and the more good body heat that is more beneficial to of gas permeability is distributed, and accelerates air exchange speed in clothes.
2) cold sense of touch (thermal conductivity): according to the method for testing of GB/T 11048-2008, carried out cold sense of touch test to the fiber crops forging fabric that embodiment 3 provides, test result is shown in Table 22.
The cold sense of touch test result of table 22
Note: contact cold warming test condition: room temperature: 20.1 DEG C, humidity: 65% ± 4%RH, 1. Δ T=10 DEG C, 2. Δ T=20 DEG C, measures face: wrap up in face.
The heat conductivility of fabric reflects the heat trnasfer speed of fabric, instantaneously by the heat flow (W/cm of per unit contact area
2) larger, contact cool feeling is stronger, and fiber crops forging fabric provided by the invention has excellent heat conductivility as can be seen from Table 22, and the fabric that thermal conductivity is good has good heat dispersion, during skin contact fabric, to people's instantaneous touch cooling feeling, this in applicable summer fabric.
3) water retention rate test: method of testing is as described below
1. the little cloth that rear for sizing sample is cut into 2cm × 5cm is put into water and soak 30min;
2. the sample after immersion is put into centrifuge with the centrifugal 5min of the acceleration of 100g, rapid weighing after taking out, is designated as: M
1;
3. baking oven sample being put into 100 DEG C dries 60min, takes absolute dry weight, is designated as: M
0;
4. water retention rate=(M is calculated
1-M
0)/M
0× 100%;
Test the fiber crops forging fabric that embodiment 3 provides according to above-mentioned method of testing, test result is shown in table 23.
Table 23 water retention rate test result
Fiber crops forging fabric provided by the invention has very low water retention rate as can be seen from Table 23, and water retention rate is lower, represents that the dress of corresponding fabric is nice and cool, quick-drying.
4) evaporation rate and hydrophily test:
1. evaporation rate: the nice and cool property being weighed fabric by the moisture content evaporation rate be evaporated to from fabric in surrounding environment in the analytical unit time.Method according to M & S P136A: adopt instillation wet fabric method to measure, at fabric face instillation distilled water, in a certain time interval, the quality of test evaporation water, calculate evaporation rate, record evaporation rate=17.8% (the M & S standard: >=17%), evaporation rate is larger, and drying property is better of the fiber crops forging fabric that embodiment 3 provides.In addition evaporation rate and fabric weight are also relevant.The cloth of homogenous quantities, fabric is more frivolous, and evaporation rate is larger, and rate of drying is faster, and fabric is easier to be dry, and nice and cool property is better, therefore, selects lighter grammes per square metre during design as far as possible.
2. hydrophily and wet guilding
Adopt method of dripping to evaluate the hydrophily (absorbance) of fabric, capillary effect evaluates the water conducting power of fabric, that is, wet guilding (wicking), concrete method of testing and standard shown in table 24.
The method of testing of table 24 hydrophily and wet guilding and standard
Concrete test result is as shown in Table 25.
Table 25 hydrophily and wet guilding test result
As can be seen from Table 25, fiber crops forging fabric provided by the invention has good hydrophily and wet guilding, hydrophilic height twists with the fingers COTTON FABRIC can make the steam of people's evacuator body be able to absorb very soon, and by its core sucting action, the moisture of people's evacuator body is transferred in time the surface of fabric, make the micro climate between fabric and human body adjusted, skin keeps relatively dry.
5) washing fastness test: according to the method for testing of AATCC 124-2010, carried out washing fastness test to the fabric that embodiment 2 and embodiment 3 provide, test result is: after 5 families wash, and the balling-up of fabric apparent fuzz is 4.0.
6) anti-microbial property test: according to the method for testing of FZ/T 73023-2006, being placed on by antibiotic fabric sample scribbles on the agar medium of experimental bacteria, under defined terms, measure the method that antibiotic fabric kills the transparent ring size that experimental bacteria is formed, the size of bacterial restrain shows the power of antimicrobial sample antibacterial effect.The anti-microbial property (gold-coloured staphylococci) of the fiber crops forging fabric that the embodiment 3 surveyed provides meets the requirement of FZ/T 73023-2006 standard A level.
7) Typical physical chemical index test, test result such as table 26 shows.
Table 26 Typical physical chemical index is tested
In sum, flax and terylene, based on flax raw material, combine and the loss of weaving cotton cloth of fabric are significantly reduced compared with pure fiber crops, significantly reduce cost, decrease the loss of raw materials/equipment by cold fiber crops forging fabric of dazzling provided by the invention; Meanwhile, by finishing functions, fabric presents bright and clean outward appearance, the soft and smooth feel as silks and satins, and has the superior functions such as nice and cool, antibacterial, hydroscopic fast-drying.
Claims (10)
1. fiber crops wash a twisted yarn, and it is twisted by one linen thread and yarn and one fine-denier polyester yarns and obtains, wherein:
In described linen thread and yarn, the content of flax is 100%, and the number of this linen thread and yarn is 28-36Nm, twist TPI is 9-13.5;
Described fine-denier polyester yarns is 30D/12F half delustring low elastic polyester filament;
The twist TPI that described fiber crops wash twisted yarn is 7-13.
2. fiber crops according to claim 1 wash twisted yarn, wherein: the single thread of linen thread and yarn is twisted with the fingers and twisted with the fingers to for Z; The sth. made by twisting that fiber crops wash twisted yarn is twisted with the fingers to for S.
3. the fiber crops of preparing described in claim 1 or 2 wash a method for twisted yarn, and it comprises the following steps:
Linen thread and yarn and fine-denier polyester yarns are carried out doubling, then twists, obtain fiber crops and wash twisted yarn; Wherein:
When carrying out doubling, the ingot speed controlling doubling frame is 4500-6500r/min;
When twisting, the ingot speed controlling twisting mill is 4000-6000r/min, and the tension force of linen thread and yarn is 5-20cN, and the tension force of fine-denier polyester yarns is 1-9cN.
4. a fiber crops forging fabric, it washs twisted yarn by the fiber crops described in claim 1 or 2 to be prepared by following steps:
A, fiber crops are washed twisted yarn and carry out comprising the pre-treatment of boiling yarn or dyeing, crossing consistent lubricant;
B, twisted yarn is washed to the above-mentioned fiber crops through pre-treatment carry out winder, during winder, twisted yarn is washed to described fiber crops and carried out Lasaxing Oilfield;
C, the fiber crops through step b process are washed twisted yarn and pure terylene filament carries out row's weaving yarns, obtain fiber crops forging fabric.
5. fiber crops forging fabric according to claim 4, wherein: in step c, when carrying out row's weaving yarns, what keep fiber crops to wash twisted yarn is 12-15% containing damp rate.
6. fiber crops forging fabric according to claim 4, wherein: after step c terminates, also comprise biological filtering layer is carried out to fiber crops forging fabric, softener arranges, the step of hydrophilic finiss and antibiotic finish.
7. fiber crops forging fabric according to claim 4, wherein: in step c, the institutional framework of fiber crops forging fabric comprises one side plain weave, PIQUE, PIQUE of trying to stop people from fighting each other, 6 mould PIQUE or LACOSTEs;
Preferably, row's yarn mode of described one side plain weave is: the 1st mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and the 2nd mould is pure terylene filament, and weaves as minimal circulation unit; Or the 1st mould is pure terylene filament, the 2nd mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and weaves as minimal circulation unit;
Row's yarn mode of described PIQUE is: the 1st mould is pure terylene filament, and the 2nd mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and the 3rd mould is pure terylene filament, and the 4th mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and weaves as minimal circulation unit;
Row's yarn mode of described PIQUE of trying to stop people from fighting each other is: the 1st mould is the blended yarns that pure terylene filament is made with elastic filament of trying to stop people from fighting each other, 2nd mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, 3rd mould is the blended yarns that pure terylene filament is made with elastic filament of trying to stop people from fighting each other, 4th mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and weaves as minimal circulation unit;
Row's yarn mode of described 6 mould PIQUEs is: the 1st mould is pure terylene filament, and the 2nd mould and the 3rd mould are fiber crops and wash twisted yarn, and the 4th mould is pure terylene filament, and the 5th mould and the 6th mould are fiber crops and wash twisted yarn, and weave as minimal circulation unit;
Row's yarn mode of described LACOSTE is: the 1st mould is pure terylene filament, and the 2nd mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and the 3rd mould is pure terylene filament, and the 4th mould is that fiber crops wash twisted yarn, and weaves as minimal circulation unit.
8. the fiber crops forging fabric according to claim 4 or 5, wherein: in step c, when carrying out row's weaving yarns, what keep fiber crops to wash twisted yarn is 12% containing damp rate;
Preferably, when weaving, controlling board rotating speed is 14-18r/min, and entering yarn tension is 8-12cN, and needle gage is 18-24G, and yarn is long is 50C=150-170mm.
9. fiber crops forging fabric according to claim 6, wherein: at described biological filtering layer is included in 40-60 DEG C, fiber crops are forged fabric to be placed in enzyme washing lotion and to process 40-80min, wherein, the composition of described enzyme washing lotion comprises: 2-4g/L cellulase, 0.5-1g/L sodium acetate and 0.5-1g/L acetic acid, and the bath raio of described fabric and enzyme washing lotion is 1:18-40.
10. fiber crops forging fabric according to claim 6, wherein: described soft finish comprises to forge the solution that fabric is placed in containing softener and process by fiber crops, wherein, described softener comprises hydrophilic silicon oil, and its concentration is 2-75g/L;
Described antibiotic finish comprises to forge the solution that fabric is placed in containing antibacterial finishing agent and processes by fiber crops, wherein, described antibacterial finishing agent comprises organosilicon-quaternary ammonium compound, and its concentration is 20-40g/L.
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Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN106906664A (en) * | 2016-07-01 | 2017-06-30 | 王敏敏 | Flax setting agent |
| CN108968169A (en) * | 2018-07-18 | 2018-12-11 | 浙江宝娜斯袜业有限公司 | A kind of silk stocking with Antibacterial accessory ingredient |
| CN108977958A (en) * | 2018-07-18 | 2018-12-11 | 浙江宝娜斯袜业有限公司 | Composite elastic filament and silk stocking |
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| JPH0860469A (en) * | 1994-08-19 | 1996-03-05 | Toray Ind Inc | Spun yarn and fabric made by using the same |
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| CN106906664A (en) * | 2016-07-01 | 2017-06-30 | 王敏敏 | Flax setting agent |
| CN108968169A (en) * | 2018-07-18 | 2018-12-11 | 浙江宝娜斯袜业有限公司 | A kind of silk stocking with Antibacterial accessory ingredient |
| CN108977958A (en) * | 2018-07-18 | 2018-12-11 | 浙江宝娜斯袜业有限公司 | Composite elastic filament and silk stocking |
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|---|---|
| CN104988622B (en) | 2017-04-12 |
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